IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


■-1^    12.5 


2.0 


IS. 


IL25  i  1.4 


m 


n 


Hiotographic 

Sdences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER, NY.  MStO 

(716)  872-4503 


;i\ 


qv 


[V 


■£" 


:\ 


\ 


c> 


1 


b  ^ 


f/. 


«' 


f 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notes  techniques  et  bibiiographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographicaily  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


n 


D 


n 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag4e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculAe 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I   Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  inic  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reii6  avec  d'autres  documents 


r~7|    Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 


along  interior  margin/ 

La  reiiure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 

distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  ceia  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppi^mentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilmi  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6x6  possible  de  se  procurer.  I  es  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibiiographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  fiimage 
sont  indiqute  ci-dessous. 


I     I   Coloured  pages/ 


D 
D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endom  magmas 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  peliiculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  ddcoiories,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  indgaie  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materi{ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 


r~7\  Pages  damaged/ 

I      I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

pyj  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

I      I  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totaiement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiiiet  d'errata.  une  pelure. 
etc..  ont  M  fiim^es  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  dOwument  est  fiimA  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


10X 


14X 


18X 


22X 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  hes  been  reproduced  thenke 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Nationel  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grflce  A  la 
g*n6rositA  de: 

BibliothAque  nationale  du  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  At6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sont  fiimis  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  con  rnenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derni4^re  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE ',  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
fiimts  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche.  11  est  filmA  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droits, 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

/ja 


pilte'6  ££pe^ftfon0. 


VOLUME  I. 


% 


Edition  Limited  to  Eleven  Hundred 


AND  Fifty  Copies, 


per. 


Nos.  r  to  ISO  on  Handmade  Pape 
Nos.  151  to  1150  on  Fine  Book  Paper. 

No....*^  "^ ^ 


'OPIES. 


zu^m 


-  '  ^,t  -•'~-~ 


i 


I 


lll^^ 


THH   EXPhDITiONS 


OJ 


)N  MONTCjOMRRY  F'IKE, 


ncjili^'atcr^  of  the  M/y.^i-^^i/^pi  a<  tf, 
,,'  Louisiana  Territory,  and  in  hew  S/>u(tt, 
During  tbe  Yeans  i8o^~6-;;. 


A  NFvv  rniTiaN 


vnto  IN 


A.M)   CoMI'I.KTk     1n1'I\, 


JtHA^rtwNS, 


»v 


ELLIOTT  COUHS, 

.  CttplaiH  avi{  jiistsinHt  Surften^  f'f'    '  :  f-i- 
■•^"f   '^i:rel*x^y  anii  ^'aiurntist^  Utttlcd  SI  i 
Memiir  o/tht  N^atitinat  Acaittm^  . 
Hditar  o/  Lntiit  nifti  Clari 
etc.,  etc    ffi. 


•■■•<•>■, 


IN  THRFE  VOtUV'  \ 

V^M     i 
jjftciTKMr  of  tbc  Butboc    s    .?    .sjppt  V)o\?aflc, 


,  NEW  YORK;      ' 
FRANCLS   P.   MARPF.R. 
1895- 


■^.. 


<f - 


tli""^ 


THE  EXPEDITIONS 


OP 


ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE, 


To  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  River, 

Through  Louisiana  Territory,  and  in  New  Spain, 

During  the  Years  1805-6-7. 


A  NEW  EDITION, 

Now  First  Rbpkinted  in  Full  from  the  Original  of  1810, 

With  Copious  Critical  Commentary, 

Memoir  of  Pike,  New  Map  and  other  Illustrations, 

and  Complete  Index, 


I 


BY 


,*T 


ELLIOTT  COUES, 

Late  Captain  atid  Attistant  Surgrait,  Unitetl Stattt  Army, 

Lati  Secretary  and  Naturalist,  United  States  Geological  Survey, 

Member  of  the  National .  .cademy  o/  Sciences, 

Editor  0/  Lewis  and  Clark, 

etc.,  etc.,  etc. 


IN  THREE  VOLUMES. 

Vol.  I. 
Aemofr  ot  tbe  Butbor— Afasfesfppi  tDocage. 


%     < ! 


NEW  YORK: 

FRANCIS  p.  HARPER. 
1895. 


TO 


COPVWOHT,  1895, 
BV 

FRANCIS  P.  HARPER, 
New  York. 


AU  rigkit  rutrvid. 


\Fellow  5 

In  prcstt 

fo'lmi ig  J 

\very  institt 

XavawedlyJ 

The  wort 

found  that 

\  cutty  and 

\  claim.     W 

\  hypothesise, 

\ivhich.  if  d 

{genius  and 

\  events  of  yi 

the  most  jiu 

I  receive  the  3 

/  am,  gt 

I  sideration. 


2)eMcatlon. 


TO  THE  PRESIDENT  AND  MEMBERS  OF  THE 
U.  S.  M.  P.  S. 

\Fellow  Soldiers  and  Citi:(ens: 

In  presuming  to  claim  your  proteSlion  at.,,  patroftagr  /"or  the 

)'lov,'ig  produSlion,  I  feel  less  diffidence,  hncrv,,  q^  that  the 

\very  institution  of  the  society  will  plead  in  my  fuoor,  it  being 

\avowedly  formed  for  the  promotion  of  military  knoji'fedge. 

The  work  is  merely  a  volume  of  details,  and  if  it  should  he 

niid  that  in  the  relation  I  have  delivered  myself  with  per^pi- 

\ctiity  and  exaSlitude,  it  is  the  highest  rueed  of  praise  that  I 

claim.     When  I  touched  on  abstraSl  subjects,  or  presumed  to 

bypothesiie,  I  have  merely  suggested  dot  '  ^5  without  conclusions, 

which,  if  deemed  worthy,  may  hereafter  be  analysed  by  men  of 

{genius  and  science.    It  being  a  work  which  has  arisen  from  the 

\  events  of  youthful  military  exertions,  the  author,  perhaps,  has 

the  most  just  and  well-founded  ground  for  a  hope  that  it  may 

I  receive  the  solicited  approbation  of  your  honorable  institution. 

I  am,  gentlemen,  with  the  greatest  re§pe£l  and  high  con- 
I  sideration. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

Z.  M.  PIKE, 

Major  6th  Regt.  Infantry, 
M.  U.  S.  M.  P.  Society. 


fii 


Original 
New  Prei 
Memoir  o 


Itinerary 
Sepi 


Itinerary 
Sept 


Itinerary, 
Febr 


Weather 


Correspon 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.   I. 


Original  Preface, 

New  Preface, 

Memoir  of  Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike, 


PAGES 

i-iv 
v-xviii  ♦ 
xix-cxiv 


PART  I. 
The  Mississippi  Voyage. 

CHAPTER   I. 

Itinerary:    St.   Louis   to   St.   Paul,    August   9TH- 

September  2IST,  1805, 1-81 

CHAPTER  n. 
Itinerary,  Continued:   St.   Paul   to   Leech   Lake, 

September  220,  i8o5-January  31ST,  1806,     .       .      82-151 

CHAPTER  III. 

Itinerary,  Concluded:   Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis, 

February  ist-April  30TH,  1806,     ....    152-215 


CHAPTER  IV. 
Weather  Diary  of  the  Mississippi, 

CHAPTER  V. 
Correspondence  and  Conferences, 


216-220 


221-273 


mm 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   VI. 
Commerce  of  the  Mississippi, 

CHAPTER   VH. 
Geography  of  the  Mississippi 


CHAPTER  Vni. 
Ethnography  of  the  Mississippi, 

CHAPTER   IX. 
Vocabulary  of  Mississippian  Place-names, 


PACBS 
274-286 


287-336  i 


337-354 


•  355.356 


PREFACE  TO  THE  ORIGINAL  EDITION. 


To  the  Public  : 

Books  of  travels,  journals,  and  voyages  have  become 
so  numerous,  and  are  so  frequently  impositions  on  the 
public,  that  the  writer  of  the  following  sheets  feels 
under  an  obligation  to  explain,  in  some  measure,  the 
original  circumstances  that  led  to  the  production  of  this 
volume.  Soon  after  the  purchase  of  Louisiana  by  an  en- 
lightened administration,  measures  were  taken  to  explore 
the  then  unknown  wilds  of  our  western  country — measures 
founded  on  principles  of  scientific  pursuits,  combined  with 
a  view  of  entering  into  a  chain  of  philanthropic  arrange- 
ments for  ameliorating  the  condition  of  the  Indians  who 
inhabit  those  vast  plains  and  deserts.  His  Excellency, 
Meriwether  Lewis,  then  a  captain  of  the  first  regiment  of 
infantry,  was  selected  by  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
in  conjunction  with  Captain  C.  Clarke  [Wm.  Clark],  to 
explore  the  then  unknown  sources  of  the  Missouri,  and  I 
was  chosen  to  trace  the  Mississippi  to  its  source,  with  the 
objects  in  view  contemplated  by  my  instructions ;  to  which 
I  conceived  my  duty  as  a  soldier  should  induce  me  to  add 
an  investigation  into  the  views  of  the  British  traders  in  that 
quarter  as  to  trade,  and  an  inquiry  into  the  limits  of  the 
territories  of  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  As  a 
man  of  humanity  and  feeling,  I  made  use  of  the  name  of 
my  government  to  stop  the  savage  warfare  which  had  for 
ages  been  carried  on  by  two  of  the  most  powerful  nations 
of  aborigines  in  North  America.  Why  I  did  not  execute 
the  power  vested  in  me  by  the  laws  of  the  country,  to  ruin 
the  British  traders  and  enrich  myself,  by  seizing  on  the 
immense  property  of  the  North  West  Company,  which  I 


ii 


PREFACE  TO  THE  ORIGINAL  EDITION. 


found  in  the  acknowledged  boundary  of  the  United  States, 
will  be  explained  by  my  letter  to  Hugh  M'Gillis,  Esq.,  to 
whom  I  own  eternal  gratitude  for  his  polite  and  hospitable 
treatment  of  myself  and  party. 

In  the  execution  of  this  voyage  I  had  no  gentleman  to 
aid  me,  and  I  literally  performed  the  duties  (as  far  as  my 
limited  abilities  permitted)  of  astronomer,  surveyor,  com- 
manding officer,  clerk,  spy,  guide,  and  hunter ;  frequently 
preceding  the  party  for  miles  in  order  to  reconnotter,  and 
returning  in  the  evening,  hungry  and  fatigued,  to  sit  down 
in  the  open  air,  by  firelight,  to  copy  the  notes  and  plot  the 
courses  of  the  day. 

On  my  return  from  the  Mississippi  voyage,  preparations 
were  making  for  a  second,  which  was  to  be  conducted  by 
another  gentleman  of  the  army ;  but  General  Wilkinson 
solicited  as  a  favor  that  which  he  had  a  right  to  command, 
viz.,  that  I  would  agree  to  take  charge  of  the  expedition. 
The  late  dangers  and  hardships  I  had  undergone,  together 
with  the  idea  of  again  leaving  my  family  in  a  strange 
country,  distant  from  their  connections,  made  me  hesitate  ; 
but  the  ambition  of  a  soldier,  and  the  spirit  of  enterprise 
which  was  inherent  in  my  breast,  induced  me  to  agree  to 
his  proposition.  The  great  objects  in  view  by  this  expedi- 
tion, as  I  conceived  in  addition  to  my  instructions,  were  to 
attach  the  Indians  to  our  government,  and  to  acquire  such 
geographical  knowledge  of  the  southwestern  boundary  of 
Louisiana  as  to  enable  our  government  to  enter  into  a 
definitive  arrangement  for  a  line  of  demarkation  between 
that  territory  and  North  Mexico. 

In  this  expedition  I  had  the  assistance  of  Lieutenant 
James  [D.]  Wilkinson,  and  also  of  Dr.  John  H.  Robinson,  a 
young  gentleman  of  science  and  enterprise,  who  volunteered 
his  services.  I  also  was  fitted  out  with  a  complete  set  of 
astronomical  and  mathematical  instruments,  which  enabled 
me  to  ascertain  the  geographical  situation  of  various  places 
to  a  degree  of  exactitude  that  would  have  been  extremely 
gratifying  to  all  lovers  of  science,  had  I  not  been  so  unfor- 


PREFACE  TO  THE  ORIGINAL  EDITION. 


m 


tunate  as  to  lose  the  greater  part  of  my  papers  by  the 
seizure  of  the  Spanish  government. 

With  respect  to  the  great  acquisitions  which  might  have 
been  made  to  the  sciences  of  botany  and  zoology,  I  can  only 
observe  that  neither  my  education  nor  taste  led  me  to  the 
pursuit ;  and  if  they  had,  my  mind  was  too  much  engrossed 
in  making  arrangements  for  our  subsistence  and  safety  to 
give  time  to  scrutinize  the  productions  of  the  countries  over 
which  we  traveled,  with  the  eye  of  a  Linnaeus  or  Buffon ; 
yet  Dr.  Robinson  did  make  some  observations  on  those 
subjects,  which  he  has  not  yet  communicated.  With  respect 
to  the  Spanish  part,  it  has  been  suggested  to  me  by  some 
respected  friends  that  the  picture  I  drew  of  the  manners, 
morals,  etc.,  of  individuals  generally  of  New  Spain,  if  a 
gof.d  likeness,  was  certainly  not  making  a  proper  return 
for  the  hospitality  and  kindness  with  which  those  people 
honored  me.  Those  reasons  have  induced  me  to  omit 
many  transactions,  and  draw  a  veil  over  various  habits  and 
customs  which  might  appear  in  an  unfavorable  point  of 
view,  at  the  same  time  that  I  have  dwelt  with  delight  on 
their  virtues. 

There  have  not  been  wanting  persons  of  various  ranks  who 
have  endeavored  to  infuse  the  idea  into  the  minds  of  the  pub- 
lic that  the  last  voyage  was  undertaken  through  some  sinister 
designs  of  General  Wilkinson ;  and  although  this  report  has 
been  amply  refuted  by  two  letters  from  the  S'xretary  of 
War,  published  with  this  work,  yet  I  cannot  forbear,  in  this 
public  manner,  declaring  the  insinuation  to  be  a  groundless 
calumny,  arising  from  the  envenomed  breasts  of  persons 
who,  through  enmity  to  the  general,  would,  in  attempting 
his  ruin,  hurl  destruction  on  all  those  who,  either  through 
their  official  stations  or  habits  of  friendship,  ever  had  any 
connection  with  that  gentleman. 

As  a  military  man — as  a  soldier  from  the  time  I  was  able 
to  bear  arms — it  cannot  be  expected  that  a  production  of 
my  pen  can  stand  the  test  of  criticism ;  and  I  hope,  by  this 
candid  appeal  to  the  justice  and  indulgence  of  the  learned, 


i 


iv 


PREFACE  TO  THE  ORIGINAL  EDITION. 


to  induce  them  to  spare  their  censure  if  they  cannot  award 
their  praise. 

The  gentleman  who  prints  this  work  knows  under  what 
a  variety  of  disadvantages  it  has  gone  to  the  press.*  At  a 
distance  during  its  publication,  and  engaged  in  my  profes- 
sional duties,  it  was  impossible  to  give  to  it  that  attention 
which,  in  order  to  reach  its  proper  degree  of  correctness, 
such  a  work  necessarily  would  require. 

Z.  M.  Pike. 


*  The  publisher  owes  it  to  truth,  and  to  Colonel  Pike,  to  state  that  he  very 
much  doubts  whether  any  book  ever  went  to  press  undtr  so  many  disadvantages 
as  the  one  now  presented  to  the  public.  Some  of  those  disadvantages  must  be 
obvious  to  every  man  who  reads  the  work  ;  but  there  are  many  others  of  a 
nature  not  sufficiently  interesting  for  publication,  yet  of  sufficient  magnitude  to 
retard  the  work,  embarrass  the  publisher,  and  impose  more  anxiety  than  has 
fallen  to  his  lot  in  the  various  books  which  he  has  published,  't  is,  however, 
confidently  believed  that,  notwithstanding  all  those  circumstances,  the  Journal 
and  its  Appendixes  will  be  found  particularly  interesting  and  pregnant  with 
important  information. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 


jlVIKE'S  EXPEDITIONS  were  the  first  military  and  the 
llT  second  governmental  explorations  which  were  pushed 
to  any  considerable  extent  in  our  then  newly  acquired  terri- 
tory of  Louisiana.  The  name  and  fame  of  the  brilliant 
young  soldier  who  impersonated  the  authority  of  the  United 
States  over  all  the  ground  between  British  and  Spanish 
possessions  are  thus  inseparably  linked  with  those  of  Lewis 
and  Clark  in  the  beginning  of  our  history  of  the  Great  West 
—a  West  so  great  that  it  reached  from  the  Mississippi  to 
the  Pacific.  The  two  movements  were  similar  in  scope  and 
plan;  both  were  in  the  nature  of  claiming  possession  of 
property  they  were  alike  fruitful  of  permanent  good  re- 
sults; bu.  they  differed  entirely  in  the  circumstances  under 
which  each  was  devised,  and  to  a  marked  degree  in  their 
respective  purposes.  Lewis  and  Cla.k's  enterprise  origi- 
nated with  the  President  of  the  United  States ;  and  though 
both  of  the  men  to  whom  that  most  memorable  exploration 
was  confided  were  officers  of  the  regular  army,  their  military 
organization  was  entirely  subservient  to  affairs  of  state, 
being  simply  designed  to  secure  the  most  efficient  discipline 
in  the  discharge  of  certain  civilian  duties.  Jefferson  had 
invested  heavily  in  real  estate ;  the  Louisiana  purchase  had 
been  made  with  the  people's  money  ;  he  naturally  wished 
to  know  what  sort  of  a  bargain  he  had  made  with  Napoleon  ; 
so  he  sent  Lewis  and  Clark  to  explore  the  vast  extent  of 
country  he  had  bought.  While  their  faces  were  still  fixed 
on  the  setting  sun,  which  for  them  still  dipped  behind  the 
Shining  snow-caps,  Pike  set  forth  on  his  first  journey  north- 
ward; while  they  were  homeward  bound  from  the  South 


vl 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 


lii;    V 
111 


Sea  by  way  of  the  mighty  Missouri  and  the  rugged  Roche 
Jaune,  he  was  pressing  on  his  second  way  toward  the  Mexi* 
can  mountains.  Both  his  expeditions  originated  with  the 
commander-in-chief  of  the  army ;  both  were  as  strictly  mili- 
tary in  method  as  in  purpose.  Pike  was  the  simon-pure  and 
simple  soldier,  who  had  been  ordered  by  his  general  to 
carry  our  flag  among  British  traders  and  Sioux,  Ojibways, 
and  other  Indians  of  the  Northwest,  in  the  first  instance ; 
in  the  second  place,  to  display  that  emblem  of  authority 
among  the  Osages,  Pawnees,  and  Comanches,  and  plant  that 
standard  of  the  republic  on  the  still  disputed  boundary  of 
New  Spain  in  the  Southwest.  All  else  that  he  accomplished 
was  incidental  to  Wilkinson's  main  aim.  How  daring  were 
Pike's  exploits,  these  volumes  testify.  Their  moral  effect 
was  enormous ;  their  results  proved  far-reaching ;  and  some 
of  these  are  still  in  evidence  of  intrepid  adventure  pushed 
to  successful  issue. 

If  the  record  of  Pike's  expeditions  be  overshadowed  by 
the  history  of  still  greater  and  partly  prior  achievement,  we 
may  remember  that  its  luster  is  dimmed  only  in  comparison 
with  the  incomparable  story  of  Lewis  and  Clark.  If  this 
witness  of  arduous  duty  ardently  done  in  the  service  of  his 
country  stand  dumb  before  that  startling  tragedy  which  set 
the  seal  of  sacrifice  upon  a  devoted  life,  we  may  reflect  that 
such  a  consummation  of  noble  aspirations  but  capped  the 
climax  of  unswerving  patriotism  and  unwavering  fidelity  to 
lofty  ideals  when  it  transfigured  the  already  celebrated 
explorer  into  a  national  hero  and  a  popular  idol.  Pike's 
personality  is  not  less  picturesque  than  is  his  career  unique ; 
our  interest  in  his  character  becomes  vivid  as  we  study  its 
manifestations,  and  perhap*^.  even  outgrows  that  regard  we 
may  bestow  upon  those  of  his  achievements  which  have 
passed  into  permanent  history.  The  present  volumes  tell 
his  own  story,  in  his  own  way ;  they  are  autobiographical  in 
all  that  relates  to  the  principal  incidents  and  most  stirring 
scenes  of  his  life,  before  that  final  catastrophe  which  turned 
the  tide  of  international  warfare.     If  the  narrative  never 


■halted  at  the 
Ipike's,  and  it| 
iBiddle  could 
Itory  of  Lewis 
Ibooks  will  er 
Ithe  beginning 
|of  the  people^ 
Pike  anticif 
[bringing  the 
before  the 
there  has  nev< 
scholars  as  an 
historical,  geo 
of  which  it  tre 
has  never  bee 
to  be  in  his  ( 
soldier  could 
happy  lot  of 
what  of  his  lif< 
Who  was  Lie 
exploring — wh 
In  searching  c 
for  biographic 
which  introdu 
sol'Jier — Genei 
tion,  if  anythii 
explorer — the 
and  enthusiast 
dream  came  ti 
death  on  the 
circumstances, 
earlier  exploit 
and  truest  li| 
failed  in  what 
but  how  man; 
perishable  ren 
tion?    One  pi 


:i\ 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW   EDITION. 


Vii 


Ihalted  at  the  point  of  an  unaccustomed  ])en  it  would  not  be 
IPike's,  and  it  would  lack  a  certain  quality  which  not  even  a 
middle  could  impart  to  the  more  polished  and  finished  his- 
Itory  of  Lewis  and  Clark.  It  now  seems  probable  that  both 
jbooks  will  endure,  side  by  side,  so  long  as  any  interest  in 
Ithe  beginnings  of  our  Great  West  finds  a  place  in  the  hearts 
|of  the  people. 

Pike  anticipated  Lewis  and  Clark  by  about  four  years  in 
[bringing  the  results  of  his  partly  simultaneous  explorations 
Ibefore  the  public.     Since  the  first  appearance  of  his  work, 
■there  has  never  been  a  time  when  it  has  not  been  cited  by 
Ischolars  as  an  original  authority  in  the  many  matters  of 
I  historical,  geographical,  ethnological,  and  related  interests 
I  of  which  it  treats.     Nevertheless,  it  is  undeniable  that  Pike 
■has  never  been  so  widely  or  so  well  known  as  he  deserves 
I  to  be  in  his  double  character  of  traveler  and  author.    The 
soldier  could  hardly  desire  greater  fame  than  fell  to  the 
happy  lot  of  the  hero  of  York,  victorious  in  death;  but 
what  of  his  life  ?    Who  was  this  General  Pike  before  that  ? 
Who  was  Lieutenant  or  Captain  Pike — where  did  he  go 
exploring — what  did  he  discover — how  should  we  know? 
In  searching  contemporaneous  records  of  the  War  of  1812 
for  biographical  data  in  the   preparation  of  the  Memoir 
which  introduces  these  volumes,  it  was  always  the  great 
soldier — General  Pike — whom  I  found,  with  scant  recogni- 
tion, if  anything  more  than  mere  mention,  of  the  still  greater 
explorer — the  youthful,  the  dashing  and  winning,  the  ardent 
and  enthusiastic  lieutenant,  who  dreamed  of  glory  till  his 
dream  came  true.    The  fact  would  seem  to  be  that  Pike's 
death  on  the  field  of  battle,  under  exceptionally  thrilling 
circumstances,    obscured   rather    than    accentuated    those 
earlier  exploits  which  set  his  title  to  fame  in  the  clearest 
and  truest  light.     Probably  no  good  general  would  have 
failed  in  what  Pike  accomplished  on  the  day  of  his  death  ; 
but  how  many  subalterns  in  their  twenties  have  won  im- 
perishable renown  by  achievements  in  the  field  of  explora- 
tion ?    One  purpose  I  had  in  view  in  preparing  a  new  edition 


n 

h 


S! 


i^;f; 


m 


tit 


It  I 


viii 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW   EDITION. 


! 


of  this  work  will  have  been  subserved  if  I  have  succeeded  in 
eliminating  a  certain  popular  aberration,  in  calculating  aright 
the  parallax  of  Pike  as  viewed  from  different  standpoints, 
and  in  thus  placing  his  name  in  proper  historical  perspective. 

Nearly  or  quite  all  that  an  editor  might  be  expected  to 
say  in  his  preface  concerning  the  subject-matter  of  his  author 
will  be  found  to  have  been  said  already  in  one  place  or 
another  in  the  course  of  the  extensive  and  minute  commen- 
tary which  appears  upon  almost  every  page  of  the  present 
edition.  Nevertheless,  so  few  are  the  persons  who  have  any 
clear  or  coherent  ideas  on  the  subject  of  Pike's  performances, 
that  it  will  be  to  consult  the  convenience  of  most  readers 
who  may  take  up  this  book  to  give  here  a  brief  statement  of 
his  journeyings. 

Pike  conducted  two  entirely  separate  and  distinct  expedi- 
tions. One  of  them,  in  1805-6,  was  from  St.  Louis  by  way 
of  the  Mississippi  to  the  headwaters  of  this  river,  and 
return — for  the  most  part  by  the  same  way  he  went.  This 
round  trip,  which  I  have  called  the  "  Mississippi  Voyage," 
forms  Pt.  I  of  his  book.  The  other  expedition  was  taken 
westward  from  St.  Louis  into  the  interior  parts  of  the  then 
Louisiana,  to  the  sources  of  the  Arkansaw  riv(.  r,  and  among 
the  Rocky  mountains  of  present  Colorado.  In  so  far  as 
Pike  protracted  this  exploration  of  his  own  volition,  it  forms 
Pt.  2  of  his  book,  which  I  have  designated  the  "Arkan- 
saw Journey."  But  at  one  point  in  the  course  of  this  jour-  j 
ney  Pike  was  captured  by  the  Spaniards,  and  conducted 
against  his  will  by  a  roundabout  way  through  Mexico  to  I 
the  then  Spanish-American  boundary  between  Texas  and 
Louisiana.  This  episode,  unflattering  to  Pike's  sensibilities, 
if  not  wholly  unforeseen  by  him,  he  saw  fit  to  make  the 
subject  of  Pt.  3  of  his  book ;  I  have  entitled  it  the  | 
"  Mexican  Tour." 

L  In  July,  1805,  Pike  was  ordered  by  General  Wilkinson] 
to  explore  and  report  upon  the  Mississippi  river  from  St. 
Louis  to  its  source,  select  sites  for  military  posts,  treat  with! 
the  Indians,  make  peace  if  possible  between  the  Sioux  and 


ii 

III!! 


!!l 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW   EDITION. 


ix 


Ojibways,  and  Bnd  out  what  he  could  about  the  British 
traders  who  still  occupied  posts  in  our  newly  acquired  ter- 
ritory. Excepting  these  establishments  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  there  were  then  no  white  settlements  on  or  near 
the  river  beyond  the  village  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  our 
flag  had  never  flown  in  that  quarter.  Pike  navigated  his 
boats  to  the  vicinity  of  present  Little  Falls,  but  could  get 
them  no  further.  He  there  built  a  stockade,  in  which  some 
of  his  men  were  left  for  the  winter,  and  with  the  rest 
pushed  on  by  land  along  the  river  to  Lower  Red  Cedar 
Lake — Sandy  lake — Grand  rapids  and  Pokegama  falls — 
mouth  of  Leech  Lake  river — up  the  latter  to  Leech  lake — 
and  thence  to  Upper  Red  Cedar  (now  Cass)  lake,  at  the 
mouth  of  Turtle  river.  This  was  the  furthest  point  he 
reached.  He  considered  the  Leech  Lake  drainage-area — 
which  I  have  called  the  Pikean  source — to  be  the  true 
I  origin  of  the  Mississippi,  and  remained  in  ignorance  of  the 
fact  that  this  river  flowed  into  Cass  lake  from  such  lakes  as 
Bemidji  and  Itasca,  though  these  and  others  were  already 
known  to  some  of  the  whites.  Returning  from  Cass  to 
Leech  lake,  and  thence,  by  a  more  direct  overland  route 
than  he  had  before  taken,  to  the  Mississippi  in  the  vicinity 
of  Lower  Red  Cedar  lake,  he  descended  the  river  to  his 
stockade,  picked  up  the  men  who  had  wintered  there,  and 
as  soon  as  the  ice  broke  up  started  in  boats  for  St.  Louis, 
[which  he  reached  in  safety  with  all  his  party  in  April,  1806. 
n.  In  July,  1806,  Pike  left  St.  Louis  on  his  second 
[expedition.  He  ascended  the  Missouri  to  the  Osage,  and 
[the  latter  to  the  villages  of  the  Indians  of  that  name. 
I  Thence  he  continued  westward  overland,  entered  Kansas, 
land  proceeded  to  the  Pawnee  village  on  the  Republican 
1  river,  near  the  present  Kansas-Nebraska  line.  Turning 
[southward,  he  reached  the  Arkansaw  river  at  the  present 
[site  of  Great  Bend.  There  he  dispatched  his  junior  officer, 
[Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  with  a  few  men,  to  descend  the 
JArkansaw,  while  with  the  rest  of  his  company  he  ascended 
Ithe  same  river  into  Colorado,  as  far  as  Pueblo.     From  this 


14 


■M 


.if 


a 


U 


I'f 


! 


X  PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 

point  he  made  an  unsuccessful  side-trip  which  had  for  its 
object  the  ascent  of  the  since  famous  peak  which  bears  his 
name,  and  returned  to  his  camp  at  Pueblo.     Thence  push- 
ing up  the  Arkansaw,  he  was  halted  by  the  Grand  canon,  at 
the  site  of  present  Caflon  City.     He  then  made  a  detour  to 
the  right,  which  took  him  up  Oil  creek  into  South  Park. 
He  traversed  this  park,  along  the  South  Platte  and  some  of 
its  tributaries,  left  it  by  way  of  Trout  Creek  pass,  and  was 
thus  again  brought  to  the  Arkansaw.     He  pushed  up  this 
river  till  he  viewed  its  sources,  in  the  vicinity  of  present 
Leadville,  turned  about,  and  with  great  difficulty  descended 
it  to  the  very  camp  he  had  left  at  Caflon  City.     This  part 
of  his  journey  was  not  accomplished  without  much  hard- 
ship, and  ended  in  chagrin  ;  for  he  had  fancied  himself  on 
the  headwaters  of   that  Red  river  vhose  sources  he  had 
been  pointedly  instructed  to  discover.     Nothing  was  known 
at  that  time,  to  Americans,  of   the  origin  of  that  great 
branch  of  the  Mississippi  which  was  called  Red  river  lower 
down  ;  nor  was  it  known  till  years  afterward  that  what  the 
Spaniards  had  called  high  up  by  a  name  equivalent  to  Red 
river  was  really  that  main  fork  of  the  Arkansaw  which  is 
now  designated  the  Canadian  river,  whose  sources  are  in 
the  mountains  not  far  from  Santa  F^.     Tl^tf  was  the  river 
which  Pike  might  have  found,  had  his  search  been  more 
fortunately  directed,  though   neither   he    nor    any  other 
American  was  aware  of  that  fact  at  the  time.     Neverthe- 
less, he  determined  to  carry  out  his  orders  to  the  letter,  and 
with  more  courage  than  discretion  pushed  southward  from  I 
his  camp  at  Cafton  City  to  discover  an  elusive  Red  river. [ 
He  passed  up  that  tributary  of  the  Arkansaw  which  is  now! 
called    Grape  creek,   and    thus    into  the   Wet    Mountain! 
valley.     There  the  party  suffered  almost  incredibly  froml 
cold  and  hunger ;  some  of  the  men  were  frozen  and  crippled  I 
for  life.     But  Pike  managed  to  extricate  himself  and  mosti 
of  his  companions  from  their  perilous  situation  by  crossingi 
the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  through  the  Sand  Hill  pass! 
into  the  San  Luis  valley,  where  he  found  himself  on  the! 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 


xi 


Rio  Grande  del  Norte.  He  descended  this  river  to  the  Rio 
Conejos,  and  there  established  himself  in  a  stockade — in 
part  at  least  for  the  purpose  of  tarrying  while  he  sent  a 
small  party  back  for  those  of  the  men  who  had  been  left 
behind,  both  at  Caflon  City  and  in  Wet  Mountain  valley. 

The  secret  which  underlay  Pike's  ostensible  instructions 
from  General  Wilkinson,  and  the  mystery  which  is  sup- 
posed to  have  enshrouded  his  movements  on  this  portion  of 
his  second  expedition,  are  fully  discussed  in  my  notes,  at 
various  points  in  Pike's  narrative  or  in  my  Memoir,  where 
the  subject  o'^trudes.  Without  going  into  any  particulars 
here,  it  is  to  L  said  simply  that  Pike  may  have  been  ordered 
to  proceed  to  Santa  F6 — or  as  near  that  capital  of  Spanish 
New  Mexico  as  he  could  go  with  the  force  at  his  com- 
mand— without  being  informed  of  whatever  ulterior  designs 
tthe  general  of  the  army  nay  have  entertained. 

III.  Pike  was  captured  in  his  stockade,  with  the  few  men 
he  had  left  about  him,  by  Spanish  dragoons,  under  the 
orders  of  General  AUencaster,  then  governor  of  New  Mex- 
ico. The  message  he  received  from  his  captors  was  dis- 
Iguised  under  the  form  of  a  polite  invitation  to  visit  the 
governor  at  Santa  F6.  On  the  27th  of  February,  1807,  he 
left  his  post  as  a  prisoner  in  the  hands  of  a  half-hostile 
foreign  power,  accompanied  by  the  remnant  of  his  men. 
They  were  treated  with  great  forbearance — nay,  with  dis- 
tinguished consideration;  nevertheless,  Pike  was  brought 
to  book  before  the  authorities,  and  required  to  explain  how 
he  had  happened  to  invade  Spanish  territory  with  an  armed 
force.  Governor  AUencaster  then  ordered  him  to  report  to 
iGeneral  Salcedo  at  Chihuahua;  he  was  accordingly  escorted 
jby  the  military  down  the  Rio  Grande  from  Santa  Fe  to  El 
jPaso,  and  thence  by  the  usual  route  southward,  in  what  was 
Ithen  New  Biscay,  to  the  first  named  city.  From  this  capital 
jhe  was  conducted,  still  under  guard,  through  a  portion  of 
Iwhat  is  now  the  State  of  Durango,  around  by  the  Bolson  de 
iMapimi,  thence  northward  throughout  Coahuila,  and  so  on 
|to  San  Antonio.    Continuing  through  Texas,  he  was  finally 


i 


[■m 


xii 


PREFACE  TO   THE  NEW   EDITION. 


delivered  out  of  the  hands  of  his  Spanish  hosts  and  captors, 
on  crossing  the  river  which  in  part  bounds  our  present 
State  of  Louisiana;  and  ended  his  long  peregrination  at 
Natchitoches,  a  nong  his  own  countrymen. 

At  this  point  the  author's  narrative  ends  abruptly,  so  far 
as  any  itinerary  of  his  movements  is  concerned.  We  are 
not  even  told  what  became  of  the  men  who  did  not  accom- 
pany him  to  Natchitoches — those  who  were  left  behind 
when  he  started  from  the  Rio  Conejos,  either  at  that  point, 
or  in  the  Wet  Mountain  valley,  or  on  the  Arkansaw.  It 
had  been  understood,  and  was  fully  expected,  that  they 
were  all  to  follow  him  through  Mexico  under  Spanish 
escort.  It  is  probable  that  they  did  so,  and  that  all  were 
finally  restored  to  the  United  States.  But  at  the  last  word 
we  have  on  the  subject  from  Pike  himself,  eight  persons 
were  still  detained  in  Mexico.     (See  p.  855.)  * 

If  the  reader  will  now  turn  to  p.  xxxvi,  he  will  find 
there  and  on  some  following  pages  an  analysis  of  the 
original  edition  of  Pike's  work,  together  with  an  exposition 
of  the  wholly  exceptional  editorial  difficulty  of  reproducing 
such  a  complicated  affair  in  anything  like  good  book  form. 
The  author,  like  many  another  gallant  soldier,  versed  in  the 
arts  of  war,  was  quite  innocent  of  literary  strategy,  though 
capable  of  heading  an  impetuous  assault  upon  the  parts  of 
speech.  He  may  have  acquired  an  impression,  by  no  means 
confined  to  his  own  profession,  that  a  book  is  made  by  put- 
ting manuscript  in  a  printing-press  and  stirring  it  about  with 
a  composing-stick,  which,  like  a  magic  wand  that  some  kind 
fairy  waves  in  an  enchanted  castle,  will  transfigure  the 
homeliness  of  the  pen  into  a  thing  of  beauty  and  a  joy  for- 1 
ever.  Pike  seems  to  have  labored  under  some  such  delusion 
in  preparing  his  copious  materials  for  the  press,  and  no  one 
appears  either  to  have  advised  him  in  these  premises  or  to 
have  revised  the  proofs.  The  result  was  innumerable 
errors,  both  of  the  writing  and  of  the  printing,  most  of  which  | 
might  have  been  eliminated  with  due  care. 


In  the  ot 

reprinted  in 

three  separa 

consecutivel; 

logical  table; 

volume  in  bi 

total  ems.     1 

ated  I,,  IL,  I 

which  were  ] 

the  work.     1 

were  then  thi 

for  each  of  tl 

sarily  displac 

set  in  small  t; 

miscellaneous 

two  sorts:  (i 

in  the  itinera 

commerce,  mi 

which  came  u 

documents  u] 

may  be  regan 

The  detern 

nothing  whate 

to  preserve  as 

in  which  it  ca 

whose   solutio 

division  of  the 

and  by  all  me 

from  Pike's  ph 

bring  each  Af 

Part,  and  set  ii 

value  and  intei 

transpositions, 

ter-heads  whicl 

tents.     Each  o; 

divided  into  th 

several  journey 


PREFACE  TO  THE   NEW   EDITION. 


xiii 


In  the  original  edition,  which  has  never  before  been 
reprinted  in  full,  or  in  anything  like  its  own  make-up.  the 
three  separate  itineraries  above  noted  followed  one  another 
consecutively,  with  only  the  interruption  of  certain  meteoro- 
logical tables.  These  itineraries  made  about  one-half  of  the 
volume  in  bulk,  but  perhaps  only  about  one-third  of  the 
total  ems.  They  were  called  "  Parts,"  respectively  enumer- 
ated I.,  II.,  III.,  and  were  the  only  portions  of  the  whole 
which  were  printed  in  large  type,  as  the  main  "  body  "  of 
the  work.  The  greater  remainder  of  the  author's  materials 
were  then  thrown  into  the  form  of  three  Appendixes,  one 
for  each  of  the  three  foregoing  Parts,  each  one  being  neces- 
sarily displaced  from  its  proper  connection,  and  all  being 
set  in  small  type.  The  contents  of  these  Appendixes  were 
miscellaneous  and  multifarious,  but  reducible  in  the  main  to 
two  sorts:  (i)  Formal  retra versing  of  the  ground  gone  over 
in  the  itineraries,  with  reference  to  geography,  ethnology, 
commerce,  military  and  political  topics,  and  related  matters 
which  came  under  Pike's  observation ;  (2)  Letters  and  other 
documents  upon  a  variety  of  subjects,  representing  what 
may  be  regarded  as  the  officialities  of  Pike's  Expeditions. 

The  determination  to  edit  Pike  with  the  omission  of 
nothing  whatever  which  the  work  originally  contained,  and 
to  preserve  as  far  as  seemed  reasonably  possible  the  shape 
in  which  it  came  from  his  own  hand,  involved  a  problem 
whose  solution  was  one  of  no  ordinary  difficulty.  The 
division  of  the  book  into  chree  Parts  was  perfectly  sound, 
and  by  all  means  to  be  preserved.  The  main  departure 
from  Pike's  plan  that  seemed  to  be  required  was  simply  to 
bring  each  Appendix  into  direct  connection  with  its  own 
Part,  and  set  it  in  uniform  typography,  as  being  of  equal 
value  and  interest  with  the  itinerary.  Having  made  these 
transpositions,  I  found  it  an  easy  matter  to  introduce  chap- 
ter-heads which  should  co-ordinate  the  whole  of  the  con- 
tents. Each  of  the  three  itineraries  could  be  conveniently 
divided  into  three  chapters,  covering  as  many  stages  of  the 
several  journeys  ;  and  in  like  manner  it  was  found  that  the 


XIV 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW   EDITION. 


contents  of  each  of  the  three  Appendixes  could  be  natu- 
rally grouped  under  a  few  heads,  thus  carrying  out  the  plan 
of  chaptering  the  whole  book.  To  effect  this  result  required 
no  change  whatever  in  the  course  of  the  itineraries,  and  in 
the  appendicial  matters  involved  only  some  few  unimportant 
transpositions,  mainly  for  the  purpose  of  rearranging  the 
oOicial  correspondence  in  the  chronological  sequence  of  the 
letters  and  other  documents  of  which  it  consisted.  But  even 
in  this  small  matter  I  have  been  at  the  pains  of  pointing 
out  the  position  which  each  separate  piece  occupied  in  the 
original  edition — perhaps  with  needless  scrupulosity.  A 
glance  at  the  tables  of  contents  of  this  edition  will  show  how 
well  or  ill  the  remodeling  has  been  done. 

The  transpositions  thus  effected,  together  with  the  re- 
peatedly broken  and  sometimes  blank  pagination  of  the 
original,  made  it  obviously  impossible  to  indicate  in  this 
edition  the  former  numeration  of  the  pages.  Otherwise,  in 
editing  Pike's  text,  I  have  been  guided  by  the  same  prin- 
ciples which  I  applied  to  my  recent  redaction  of  Lewis  and 
Clark.  I  do  not  think  that  any  editor  may  feel  free  to  re- 
write his  author.  It  would  be  an  unwarrantable  liberty  to 
sacrifice  an  author's  individuality  upon  the  altar  of  literary 
styic.  And  especially  in  the  case  of  an  old  book — one  whose 
intrinsic  merits  survive  what  are  "  the  defects  of  its  quali- 
ties," and  thus  cause  it  to  reappear  in  a  new  guise — is  it 
desirable  that  the  reader  should  feel  sure  he  is  offered  a 
genuine  text.  At  the  same  time,  the  essentials  of  genuine- 
ness are  different  from  its  factitious  ear-marks,  and  may  be 
preserved  with  fidelity  by  an  editor  who,  nevertheless,  feels 
free  to  disregard  non-essentials.  Pike's  is  both  a  rare  and 
a  curious  book ;  yet  we  need  not  venerate  its  abounding  mis- 
prints, or  burn  the  incense  of  admiration  in  the  face  of  its 
frequently  solecistic  grammar,  or  even  kowtow  to  its  peculiar 
punctuation.  Such  things  as  these  are  assuredly  among  the 
non-essentials  of  a  pure  text,  always  amenable  to  editorial  | 
revision,  and  always  open  to  the  welcome  attentions  of  a 
friendly  printer.     But  for  the  rest,  as  I  lately  said  on  a 


similar  occa< 

raphy  of  pro 

and  whereve 

or  diverted  t 

brackets  indi 

A  few  wor 

the  new  ma 

volume  of  Pi 

more  than  d 

ever,  studied 

need  of  an  in 

statements  o 

Tieaning  witli 

plied  by  the  i 

the  exercise  c 

sufficiently  in 

intelligently. 

exceptionally 

place  to  infor: 

author  intend 

nearly  as  poss 

sympathy  wit 

my  own  opin 

standing  of  th 

is  now  nearly 

else  the  subjei 

ever  copious  r 

required,  or  tc 

might  be  prot 

by  the   notes 

freighted,  and 

the  main  text. 

perhaps  comp 

it  is  not  for  m 

Aside  from 

the  best  of  mj 

to  the  several 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 


XV 


similar  occasion,  "  I  have  punctiliously  preserved  the  orthog- 
raphy of  proper  names  in  all  their  variance  and  eccentricity ; 
and  wherever  I  have  amplified  any  statement  in  the  text, 
or  diverted  the  sense  of  a  passage  by  a  hair's  breadth,  square 
brackets  indicate  the  fact." 

A  few  words  may  be  expected  in  this  connection  upon 
the  new  matter,  by  the  introduction  of  which  the  single 
volume  of  Pike  has  been  extended  to  three  volumes,  thus 
more  than  doubling  the  original  text.  I  have  seldom,  if 
ever,  studied  a  work  whose  author  seemed  to  me  in  so  great 
need  of  an  interpreter.  Pike  was  not  always  precise  in  his 
statements  of  fact,  and  sometimes  failed  to  convey  his  own 
•neaning  with  entire  lucidity.  Much  was  thus  left  to  be  sup- 
plied by  the  imagination  of  the  reader,  or  to  be  clarified  by 
the  exercise  of  his  critical  faculties,  whether  or  no  he  were 
sufficiently  informed  in  the  premises  to  follow  his  author 
intelligently.  In  subjecting  the  text  to  a  scrutiny,  perhaps 
exceptionally  close  and  rigid,  I  have  desired  in  the  first 
place  to  inform  myself  of  the  exact  significance  which  the 
author  intended  his  words  to  have,  thus  putting  myself  as 
nearly  as  possible  in  his  place,  and  always,  as  I  trust,  in  full 
sympathy  with  him,  however  diverse  from  his  views  any  of 
my  own  opinions  may  have  been.  Coming  to  such  under- 
standing of  the  work  in  hand — one  whose  accomplishment 
is  now  nearly  a  century  old — my  duty  seemed  to  be  to  criti- 
cise the  subject-matter  from  the  standpoint  of  to-day,  how- 
ever copious  might  prove  to  be  the  additional  information 
required,  or  to  whatever  extent  the  resulting  commentary 
might  be  protracted.  This  part  of  rny  work  is  represented 
by  the  notes  with  which  the  present  edition  has  been 
freighted,  and  which  are  <-ypographically  distinguished  from 
the  main  text.  These  notes  bespeak  their  own  variety  and 
perhaps  comprehensiveness ;  but  of  their  value  or  interest 
it  is  not  for  me  to  express  any  opinion. 

Aside  from  this  main  exercise  of  an  editorial  function  to 
the  best  of  my  ability,  I  have  been  induced  to  add  another 
to  the  several  good  memoirs  of  Pike  which  we  already  pos- 


it . 


XVI 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 


f! 


11 


1^ 


I" 


111 

•i!  pi 
;i    ill 


sessed — notably  Whiting's  and  Greely's.  In  the  prepara- 
tion of  this  I  have  been  able  to  avail  myself  of  much 
hitherto  unpublished  documentary  material  and  other 
sources  of  information  which  have  not  before  been  utilized 
for  this  purpose.  Under  the  circumstances  of  its  present 
connection  this  biography  could  be  prepared  with  little 
regard  to  Pike  as  an  explorer,  for  these  volumes  cover  all 
such  ground ;  and  thus  I  could  dwell  for  the  most  part  upon 
other  aspects  of  his  life  and  character,  such  as  those  which 
led  up  to  his  conspicuous  adventures,  and  especially  those 
of  the  War  of  1812  which  closed  with  his  death  a  career  of 
military  honor  and  renown. 

At  the  time  when  Pike  first  appeared  in  print,  it  was  the 
fashion  to  regard  an  index  to  a  book  rather  as  an  elegant 
superfluity,  or  a  luxury  of  leisurely  authorship,  than  as  the 
imperative  obligation  and  absolute  necessity  which  we  now 
find  it  to  be,  whenever  anything  else  than  fiction  or  poetry 
becomes  a  candidate  for  public  favor.  Pike  has  never  been 
indexed  before ;  and  many  who  now  see  how  lengthy  is  the 
list  of  proper  names  of  persons,  places,  and  other  things, 
may  for  the  first  time  become  aware  of  the  extent  and 
variety  of  information  of  which  this  author's  work  has  proved 
to  be  either  the  prolific  source  or  the  pregnant  occasion. 

All  of  the  plates  which  illustrated  the  original  edition  of 
Pike  have  been  reproduced  in  facsimile.  They  consist  of 
a  portrait  of  the  author  and  six  maps.  To  these  are  now 
added  a  facsimile  of  an  autograph  letter,  and  a  new  map, 
both  prepared  expressly  for  tl^e  present  edition.  The  letter 
requires  no  further  remark  than  that  it  is  believed  to  be 
the  first  one  ever  published,  and  that  it  is  also  printed  in  its 
proper  connection  in  the  text  of  my  Memoir,  with  many 
other  hitherto  unpublished  documents.  The  new  map, 
which  I  have  legended  as  a  Historico-geographical  Chart  of 
the  Upper  Mississippi  River,  has  been  compiled  and  drawn 
under  my  direction  by  Mr.  Daniel  W.  Cronin,  a  skillful 
draughtsman  of  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey,  and  is  copy- 
righted by  my  publisher.     It  is  based  primarily  upon  the 


r 


PREFACE   TO  THE   NEW   EDITION. 


XVII 


Map  of  the  Mississippi  River  from  Lake  Itasca  to  the  Fails 
of  St.  Anthony,  compiled  from  surveys  and  reconnoissances 
made   under  the   direction  of   Major  F.  U.  Farquhar  and 
Captain  Charles  J.  Allen,  U.  S.  A.,  and    from  the  U.  S. 
i^and  Surveys,  published  in  fifteen  sheets,  on  the  scale  of 
inch  to  mile,  by  the  Engineer  Department  of  the  Army,  in 
1 88 1.    The  hydrographic  data  from  this  source  are  supple- 
mented from  the  latest  map  of  Minnesota  published  by  the 
U.  S.  General    Land   Office,  from  the  sectional   maps    of 
Minnesota  and  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  lately  issued  by 
Jewett  and  Son  of  St.  Paul,  and  from  various  other  sources, 
ill  protracting  the  branches  of  the  main  stream  and  locating 
the  lakes,  etc.,  beyond  the  area  shown  on  the    Engineer 
charts.    The  Jewett  maps  are  the  best  ones  I  have  seen 
among  those  published  by  private  enterprise ;   the  map  of 
Minnesota  for  which  a  certain  Chicago  firm  is  responsible 
is  the  worst  of  all  those  which  have  appeared  of  late  years. 
My  corner-map   of    the    Infant    Mississippi   or   "  Cradled 
Hercules,"  on  a  much  larger  scale  than  the  rest,  is  reduced 
from  Brewer's   map  of  the   Itasca  State   Park,   with   the 
author's  kind  permission ;  the  names  given  to  the  numerous 
features  of  the  Itascan  source  of  the  Mississippi  are  those 
now  officially  recognized,  with  the  addition  of  a  few  which 
I  have  myself  bestowed  in  the  course  of  my  notes  on  Pike, 
I  among  other  results  of  my  recent  tour  of  observation.     In 
:  lettering  the  main  part  of  this  chart,  my  idea  was,  fil'st,  to 
illustrate  Pike,  by  marking  his  camps  with  their  dates,  along 
the  river,  and  also  his  trail,  where  he  went  overland  ;  it  is 
believed  that  this  has  been  done  with  all  the  accuracy  that 
a  map  of  this  scale  permits,  except  for  the  route  from  Leech 
jlakc  back  to  the  Mississippi,  which  has  never  been — and 
[probably  never  will  be — ascertained  with  all  desirable  exacti- 
Itude.    Secondly,    I   intended   to  give   the   actual   present 
Inames  of  all  the  natural  and  artificial  features  which  are 
ielineated ;  and  thirdly,  to  add  to  these  designations  all  the 
|synonymy  and  other  historical  data  which  the  map  could 
conveniently  carry.     Though  there  is  theoretically  no  end 


! 


i! 


1' 
.J 


xvii* 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW   EDITION. 


to  the  information  of  this  kind  which  might  be  put  upon  a 
map,  the  practical  Hmitations  in  any  given  case  are  obvious ; 
and  overcrowded  lettering  would  be  rather  confusing  than 
helpful  to  the  reader.  In  general,  the  historical  data  which 
have  been  selected  to  be  legended  are  in  direct  connec- 
tion with  and  support  of  Pike's  text  and  of  my  com- 
mentary thereupon.  Only  those  who  have  long  experi- 
enced the  practical  difficulty  of  making  a  good  printer  or 
draughtsman  misspell  words  in  order  to  reproduce  historical 
forms  literally  can  appreciate  the  obstacles  to  complete  suc- 
cess in  such  an  undertaking ;  but  I  indulge  the  hope  that 
this  chart,  whatever  its  imperfections  may  be,  will  be  found 
useful  enough  to  warrant  <he  great  pains  which  have  been 
taken  to  approximate  accuracy. 

As  in  editing  Lewis  and  Clark,  so  in  working  upon  Pike, 
I  have  been  encouraged  and  assisted  by  many  friends,  not 
all  of  whom  have  I  the  pleasure  of  knowing  personally.    I 
am  under  special  obligations  to  Mr.  Alfred  J.  Hill  of  St. 
Paul,  Minn.,  whose  knowledge  of  the  history  and  geography 
of  the  Upper  Mississippi  region  is  not  less  accurate  than 
extensive.     Mr.  Hill  has  been  good  enough  to  accompany 
me  throughout  Pt.   i  of  the  work,  and  give  me  the  bene, 
fit  of  his  close  scrutiny  of  the  press-proofs,  in  the  form  of  | 
constant  suggestion   and  criticism,  besides  frequent  refer- 
ences to  other  available  sources  of  information  which  Ij 
might  have  overlooked.     His  valued  co-operation  to  this 
extent  increases  very  appreciably  the  confidence  which  the! 
reader  may  feel  in  all  that  relates  to  the  Mississippi  Voyage,'! 
Mr.  R.  I.  Holcombe,  county  historian  of  Missouri,  now  ofl 
the  U.  S.  Marshal's  office  in  St.  Paul,  has  criticised  thosel 
pages    of    Pt.   2  which  relate  to   the  Osage   river.      The! 
same   friendly  attentions  have   been   bestowed   upon  thel 
whole  of  Pike's  route  in  Colorado  by  Mr.  Wm.  M.  Maguirej 
of  Denver ;  and  upon  various  points  concerning  the  pueblcsl 
of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  by  Mr.  F.  W.  Hodge  of  thej 

'  Since  these  words  were  penned  Mr.  Hill  has  made  the  long  portage,  alasl 
His  death  occurred  at  St.  Paul,  on  the  15th  inst. 


PREFACE  TO  THE   NEW  EDITION. 


xvin 


U.  S.  Bureau  of   Ethnology.      Hon.  J.  V.  Brower  of  St. 
Paul,  Commissioner  of  the  Itasca  State  Park,  has  made  me 
free  to  use  his  map  of  the  park  in  connection  with  the  new 
historico-geographical  chart  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.     The 
Hon.  the  Secretaries  of  War  and  of  State  have  granted 
permission  to  examine  official  archives  of  their  respective 
Departments;  this  research,  in  the  War  Department,  has 
been  facilitated  by  Mr.  John  Tweedale,  Chief  Clerk,  and 
Mr.  David  Fitz  Gerald,  Librarian ;  in  the  State  Department, 
by  Mr.  W.  W.  Rockhill,  Chief  Clerk;   Mr.  Andrew  H. 
Allen,  Chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Rolls  and  Library,  and  Mr. 
Walter  Manton  of  the  same  Bureau.     Gen.  A.  W.  Greely, 
Chief  Signal  Officer,  U.  S.  Army ;   Gen.  T.  L.  Casey,  late 
Chief  of  Engineers,  U.  S.  Army,  and  Mr.  W.  W.  Winship, 
Chief  Draughtsman  of  the  same ;  Major  J.  W.  Powell,  late 
Director  of  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey,  and  Director  of 
the  Bureau  of    Ethnology,   Smithsonian   Institution ;    Mr. 
Henry  Gannett  and   Mr.  A.  H.  Thompson  of  the  same 
Survey;    Prof.   G.   Brown  Goode,   Director  of  the  U.  S. 
National    Museum,    and    Prof.    Otis    T.    Mason    of    that 
Museum ;    Prof.  Harry  King,  of  the  U.  S.  General  Land 
Office;    Hon.  D.  M.  Browning,   Commissioner  of   Indian 
Affairs,  and  Mr.  R.  F.Thompson  of  the  same  Bureau;  Mr. 
L.  O.   Howard,  Chief  of  the  Division  of   Entomology  of 
the  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture ;  Mr.  A.  R.  Spofford, 
Librarian  of  Congress;  Prof.  N.  H.  Winchell,  Director  of 
the  Geological  Survey  of  Minnesota  ;  Hon.  Charles  Aldrich, 
I  Curator  of   the   Iowa   State  Historical  Department ;    Mr. 
|R.  G.  Thwaites,  Secretary  of  the  Historical  Society  of  Wis- 
consin ;  Mr.  D.  L.  Kingsbury,  Acting  Secretary  of  the  His- 
Itorical  Society  of  Minnesota  ;    Hon.  C.  C.  James,  Deputy 
jMinister  of  Agriculture  of  Ontario,  and  Hon.  A.  Blue  of 
jthe  Bureau  of  Mines  of  Ontario,  have  each  rendered  valued 
lofficial  or  personal  favors,  or  both.     I  am  also  indebted 
|in  various  ways,   most    of    which  are    indicated   in   their 
respective    connections    in    the    course    of    my   notes,  to 
ex-President  Benjamin  Harrison ;    Mr.  W.  H.  Harrison  of 


xviii* 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NEW   EDITION. 


,1' 

lib: 


Si:  i;, . 


Hi     i 


Mi 


North  Bend,  O.;  Mrs.  B.  H.  Eaton  of  El  Paso,  Tex.;  Gov- 
ernor  A.  W.  Mclntire  o£  Colorado  ;  R.  T.  Durrett,  LL.  D., 
of  Louisville,  Ky.;  Prof.  E.  D.  Cope  of  Philadelphia  ;  Mr. 
James  Bain,  Jr.,  of  the  Public  Library  of  Toronto;  Mr. 
L.  P.  Sylvain,  Assistant  Librarian  of  Parliament,  Ottawa; 
Lieutenant  J.  R.  Williams  of  the  Third  Artillery,  U.  S.  A.; 
Lieutenant  H.  M.  Chittenden  of  the  Corps  of  Engineers, 
U.  S.  A.;  Rev.  O.  S.  Bunting  of  Trenton,  N.  J.;  Prof.  J.  D. 
Butler  of  Madison,  Wis.;  Mr.  W.  P.  Garrison  of  the  New 
York  Nation ;  Judge  Thos.  H.  Bacon  of  Hannibal,  Mo.; 
Judge  Nathan  Richardson  of  Little  Falls,  Minn.;  Mr. 
Charles  Hallock  of  Hallock,  Minn.;  Mr.  H.  D.  Narrower  of 
New  York,  N.  Y.;  Mr.  T.  H.  Lewis  of  St.  Paul,  Minn.;  Mr. 
C.  H.  Small  of  Pueblo,  Col.;  Mr.  Geo.  R.  Buckman  of  Col- 
orado  Springs,  Col.;  Mr.  D.  Bosse  of  Great  Bend,  Kas.,  and 
Mr.  Luther  R.  Smith  of  Washington,  D.  C.  Mrs.  Mary  B, 
Anderson  of  Washington,  D.  C,  has  taken  great  pains  in 
preparing  under  my  direction  an  index,  of  somewhat  un- 
usual  extent  and  special  difficulty,  which  I  am  led  to  believe 
will  be  found  exceptionally  accurate.  Mr.  Robert  M. 
Trulan  and  Mr.  H.  E.  Gore-Kelly  of  the  Mershon  Printing 
Company,  Rahway,  N.  J.,  have  read  the  proofs  with  untiring 
zeal  as  well  as  professional  skill.  Mr.  Francis  P.  Harper  has 
set  no  limit  to  the  extent  to  which  my  editorial  work  might 
be  protracted,  leaving  the  substance  of  these  volumes  I 
entirely  to  my  discretion ;  and  I  have  returned  the  com-[ 
pliment  by  deferring  to  his  judgment  in  all  that  relates  toj 
the  manufacture  of  a  book  which  may  be  found  worthy  toj 
stand  by  the  side  of  Lewis  and  Clark. 

Elliott  Coues. 

Smithsonian  Institution, 

Washington,  D.  C, 

/une  2,0th,  1895. 


ZEBUl 


The  best  L 
prepared  by  j 
Jared  Sparks' 
new  series  vol, 
ni'ght  be  now  r 
the  account  of 
are  devoted,  an 
present  connect 
0^  our  informa 
before  and  afte 
ized  his  name,  a 
to  his  closing  cj 
tinguished  soldi< 

But   I   have 
a  thorough  exan 
[ment,  which   in< 

'Henry  Whiting  of 
Dragoons  Oct.  29th,  j 
'nd  a  first  lieutenant 

%  17th.  1815  ;  pron 

'St  Artillery  June  1st, 

'835 ;  lieutenant-coloi 

polonel  and  assistant  , 

m  brevetted  for  fail 

received  the  brevet  of 

l^'sta.    General  Whitii 


m 


11! 

m 


MEMOIR  OF 
ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


BY  ELLIOTT  COUES. 


The  best  Life  of  Pike  we  have  had  is  that  which  was 
prepared  by  Henry  Whiting  and  published  in  1845  in 
Jared  Sparks'  Library  of  American  Biography,  vol.  xv.  (or 
new  series  vol.  v.),  pp.  217-314.  This  excellent  memoir 
might  be  now  reproduced,  were  it  not  mainly  occupied  with 
the  account  of  those  expeditions  to  which  these  volumes 
are  devoted,  and  thus  for  the  most  part  superfluous  in  the 
present  connection.  It  still  continues  to  be  a  main  source 
of  our  information  concerning  the  events  of  Pike's  life 
before  and  after  those  exploits  of  1805-7  which  immortal- 
ized his  name,  and  is  particularly  valuable  in  all  that  relates 
to  his  closing  career,  as  the  biographer  was  himself  a  dis- 
tinguished soldier  and  competent  military  critic' 

But  I  have  much  new  matter  to  offer,  derived  from 
a  thorough  examination  of  the  archives  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment, which   include   many  original  and  hitherto  unpub- 

'  Henry  Whiting  of  Massachusetts  entered  the  army  as  a  cornet  of  Light 

Dragoons  Oct.  29th,  1808  ;  he  became  a  second  lieutenant  Sept.  15th,  1809, 

and  a  first  lieutenant  Aug.  20th,  1811  ;  was  transferred  to  the  5th  Infantry 

iMay  17th,  1815  ;  promoted  to  be  captain  Mar.  3d,  1817  ;  and  transferred  to  the 

list  Artillery  June  1st,  1821.     Vie  became  major  and  quartermaster  Feb.  23d, 

1835;  lieutenant-colonel  and  deputy  quartermaster-general,  July  7th,   1838; 

Icolonel  and  assistant  quartermaster-general,  Apr.  21st,  1846.     He  was  repeat- 

ledly  brevetted  for  faithful  and  meritorious  service,  and  on  Feb.  23d,  1847, 

Ireceived  the  brevet  of  brigadier-general  for  gallantry  in  the  battle  of  Buena 

jVista.    General  Whiting  died  Sept.  i6th,  185 1. 

xix 


i,  .-,;1 


XX 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


lished  documents  in  Pike's  case,'  from  diligent  search  among 
contemporaneous  records  of  the  war  of  1812-15,  and  from 
various  other  sources. 


The  Pike  family  resided  in  New  Jersey  for  several 
generations.  One  Captain  John  Pike  acquired  his  military 
title  in  Indian  warfare.  Zebulon  Pike,  the  father  of  Zebu- 
Ion  Montgomery  Pike,  had  been  a  captain  in  the  Revolu- 
tionary army,  and  had  served  in  the  levies  of  1 791,  when  he 
was  made  a  captain  of  infantry  Mar.  5th,  1792  ;  he  was 
assigned  to  the  Third  sub-Lepion  Sept.  4th,  1792,  and  to 
the  3d  Infantry  Nov.  1st,  1796;  he  became  major  Mar.  21st, 
1800,  and  was  transferred  to  the  1st  Infantry  Apr.  1st, 
1802  ;  he  was  brevetted  lieutenant-colonel  July  loth,  1812, 
and  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  18 15.  He  died  July 
27th,  1834.  His  son,  Zebulon  Montgomery,  was  born  at 
Lamberton,  afterward  a  south  part  of  Trenton,  N.  J., 
Jan.  5th,  1779.' 

During  Zebulon  Montgomery's  childhood  his  parents 
removed  to  a  place  in  Bucks  Co.,  Pa.,  near  the  Del- 
aware river,  and    thence    to    Easton,  Pa.     Whiting  says 

*  Access  to  these  records  was  given  in  the  following  terms : 

War  Department, 

Washington,  D.  C, 

January  29,  1894. 
Sir: 

As  requested  in  your  letter  of  the  22nd  instant,  I  take  pleasure  in  advising 
you  that  you  will  be  afforded  an  opportunity  at  such  time  as  you  may  call  at  the 
Department  to  examine  for  historical  purposes  such  records  as  are  on  file  cover- 
ing the  expedition  of  Z.  M.  Pike,  a  publication  of  whose  travels  you  state  first 
appeared  in  18 10. 

Very  respectfully, 

[Signed]    Daniel  S.  Lamont, 

Secretary  of  War. 
Dr.  Elliott  Coues, 

Smithsonian  Institution, 

Washington,  D.  C. 

'  See  beyond,  p.  lix,  for  a  document  bearing  on  the  Pike  family,  in  connec- 
tion with  a  letter  of  Zebulon  M.  Pike,  both  introduced  in  their  proper  chrono- 


III 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


XXI 


that  he  was  remembered  by  some  of  his  schoolmates 
who  were  living  in  1845,  "as  a  boy  of  slender  form,  very 
fair  complexion,  gentle  and  retiring  disposition,  but  of  reso- 
lute spirit.  Instances  are  mentioned  in  which  his  com- 
bative energies  were  put  to  a  test,  which  would  reflect  no 
discredit  upon  his  subsequent  career."  He  had  only  a  com- 
mon school  education,  which  appears  to  have  been  as  slight 
in  quality  as  it  was  short  in  duration,  though  he  was  at  one 
time  under  the  tuition  of  a  Mr.  Wall,  a  person  of  local 
repute  in  mathematics.  He  entered  the  army  as  a  raw, 
shy  country  youth,  of  the  most  slender  acquirements  in  any 
direction,  whose  main  making  of  a  man  was  ambition. 


^i 


logical  order  in  this  memoir.  But  I  find  no  better  place  than  this  for  a  letter 
from  his  father,  which  has  never  been  published  before  and  will  be  read  with 
interest  : 

Indiana  Territory 

Dear  born  County 
Sir  July  th  15*  1807 

I  have  taken  the  liberty  of  making  out  my  accounts  of  Pay  Forrage  and  Sub- 
sistance  from  the  i*  of  January  to  the  31*  ins'  and  forwarded  them  to  the  Pay 
Master  for  payment  which  I  pray  may  meet  your  approbation 

Permit  me  to  request  the  Honor  of  a  few  lines  informing  if  Z.  M.  Pike  re- 
ceived orders  for  His  Government  on  His  late  exploring  expedition,  from  The 
President,  Yourself,  or  Gen'  Wilkinson,  and  if  any  or  how  late  the  last  informa- 
tion or  communications  from  Him.  I  need  not  mention  how  disagreeable  a  state 
of  Suspense  is,  nor,  to  move  your  sympathy,  to  say  more  than  that  the  anxiety  and 
concern,  exhibited  for  His  safety,  by  an  affectionate  Mother  and  Wife,  is  Great. 
By  way  of  consolation  to  the  former,  I  have  thought  proper  to  extend  the 
probable  Period  of  His  return,  untill  this  month  ;  Mrs  Pike  is  now  begining  to 
lose  confidence  in  my  opinion,  consequently  my  consolating  influence  is  daily 
lesening,  and  Her  afflictions  increasing 

I  decline  m  Strength  as  regular  as  Time  paseth  and  However  Painfull  the 
reflection,  It  is  by  the  Bounty  of  my  Country  Life  is  rendered  Tolerable 

Be  assured  I  write  in  Pain  as  well  that  I  am 

Your  Very  Obed'.  Servt. 

Henry  Dear  born  Zeb"  Pike 

Secretary  of  War 

This  letter  is  endorsed  in  General  Dearborn's  handwriting :  "  Tell  him  his 
son  is  safe,  and  is  probably  at  Natchitoches  " — where  Captain  Pike  had  in  fact 
arrived  July  1st,  1807.  The  Secretary  of  War  at  the  same  time  ordered  atten- 
tion to  the  matter  of  Major  Pike's  pay  and  allowances,  mentioned  in  the  letter. 


'        ti 


I 


III 


1'. 


.    t 


xxu 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


1   ! 


The  records  of  young  Pike's  earliest  military  service  arc 
variant  in  some  particulars  not  of  much  consequence.  In 
one  of  his  letters,  printed  beyond,  p.  Ixv,  he  says  that  he 
entered  the  army  when  he  was  15  years  old.  This  would 
be  in  or  about  1794,  and  doubtless  refers  to  his  cadetship. 
According  to  his  biographer,  he  entered  his  father's  com- 
pany as  a  cadet,  date  not  given;  was  commissioned  as  an 
ensign  of  the  2d  Infantry  Mar.  3d,  1799;  promoted  to 
be  a  first  lieutenant  in  the  same  regiment  Apr.  24th,  1800, 
and  arranged  to  the  ist  Infantry  in  1802.  In  Heitman's 
Historical  Register*  it  appears  that  Zebulon  Montgomery 
Pike,  of  New  Jersey,  was  first  appointed  from  New  Jersey 
to  be  a  second  lieutenant  of  the  2d  Infantry,  Mar.  3d, 
1799;  was  next  promoted  to  be  first  lieutenant  of  the  same 
regiment,  Nov.  ist,  1799;  and  then  transferred  to  the  ist 
Infantry,  Apr.  ist,  1802.  Whatever  may  have  been  the 
facts  in  the  discrepant  cases  of  the  earlier  dates,  there  is  no 
uncertainty  from  April  1st,  1 802,  when  the  name  and  rank 
became  First  Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike,  1st  Regiment  of 
U.  S.  Infantry.  It  was  as  such  that  this  young  officer  was 
first  detailed  for  detached  service  in  the  exploration  of  the 
Mississippi,  by  order  of  General  James  Wilkinson,  dated 
from  the  Commanding  General's  headquarters  at  St.  Louis, 
Mo.,  July  30th,  1805. 

Pike  had  not  before  been  distinguished  from  any  other 
meritorious  and  zealous  subaltern,  though  his  qualities  had 
already  attracted  favorable  attention.  His  selection  by 
General  Wilkinson  fi;r  this  duty  was  the  beginning  of  all 
his  greatness.  Ti.'.  letter  in  which  the  detail  was  made  will 
be  found  elsewhere  (vol.  ii,  pp.  842-844).  The  principal 
other  dates  of  Pike's  brief  but  brilliant  military  career  may 

*  Historical  Register  of  the  United  States  Army,  from  its  Organization,  Septem- 
ber 29th,  1789,  to  September  29tii,  X889.  By  F.  B.  Heitman,  Clerk,  Adjutant 
General's  office,  War  Department,  Washington,  D.  C,  1890,  i  vol.,  large  8vo, 
pp.  890.  I  make  a  f>oint  throughout  Pike  of  identifying  as  far  as  possible  the 
officers  whose  names  appear  in  his  text,  giving  in  brief  their  official  records,  and 
doing  the  same  for  those  who  are  mentioned  in  my  own  writing,  I  am  indebted 
to  Heitman's  invaluable  work  for  most  such  matter. 


\iKi\fm 


llif 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.        xxiii 

be  conveniently  given  her  .  though  in  so  doing  I  anticipate 
events  which  will  come  up  again  in  their  regular  order :  His 
promotion  to  a  captaincy  in  his  regiment  occurred  by 
routine  Aug.  I2th,  1806,  when  he  was  voyaging  up  the 
Osage,  early  in  his  second  expedition.  He  became  major 
of  the  6th  Infantry  May  3d,  1808,  in  less  than  a  year 
after  his  return  from  his  tour  in  Mexico — a  journey  which 
was  directly  continuous  with  his  second,  or  Arkansaw  expe- 
dition, but  one  which,  having  been  involuntarily  performed, 
he  chose  to  separate  formally  from  the  other,  and  to 
make  known  as  his  '*  third  "  expedition.  He  became  the 
lieutenant-colonel  of  the  4th  Infantry  Dec.  31st,  1809. 
From  Apr.  3d,  1812,  to  July  3d  of  that  year,  he  was  on  duty 
as  deputy  quartermaster-general.  He  became  the  colonel 
of  the  15th  Infantry  July  6th,  1812,  and  was  appointed  to 
be  brigadier-general  Mar.  12th,  1813.  But  before  this 
appointment  was  confirmed  General  Pike  had  been  killed  at 
the  head  of  the  troops  he  led  to  the  assault  on  York,  Upper 
Canada,  April  27th,  1813,  aged  34  years,  3  months,  22  days. 
I  am  favored  by  Lieutenant  J.  R.  Williams,  of  the  army, 
with  the  following  copy  of  the  rough  draught  of  a  hitherto 
unpublished  letter  from  General  John  R.  Williams  of 
Detroit  to  Major  Amos  Holton,  giving  an  interesting 
picture  of  Pike,  framed  in  his  early  environment : 


im 


Detroit,  May  20,  1845. 
Major  Amos  Holton, 
Dear  Sir, 
I  have  reed  your  esteemed  favor  of  the  14th  April  last,  on  the  interest- 
ing subject  of  your  contemplated  publication  of  a  Biographical  memoir, 
illustrative  of  the  Character  and   services  of  the  late  Brigadier  Genl. 
Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike  of  the  U.  S.  Army.    The  half  Sheet  of  the 
Albany  Argus  which  you  designed  to  accompany  your  letter,  and  which 
,  gives  an  account  of  a  night  battle  on  the  Champlain  frontier,  I  regret  to 
1  say.  has  not  been  received. 

The  period  of  my  acquaintance  with  the  subject  of  your  contemplated 
I  memoir,  is  indeed  distant  and  remote;  and  altho'  those  days  are  still 
I  cherished  in  my  recollection  as  the  halcyon  and  pristine  days  of  my 
j  youth  and  vigor,  Yet,  I  cannot  but  be  truly  sensible  that  many  interest- 


(  1 
i  ■ 


xxtv 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


ing  incidents  have  escaped  my  recollection  in  the  lapse  ci  lorty-five 
years. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  at  Camp  Allegheny  in  the  month  of  May  1800  I 
became  acquainted  with  Lieut.  Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike  of  the  2d 
Regt.  U.  S.  Infy,  he  was  shortly  afterwards  appointed  Adjutant  of  the 
Regiment,  in  which  Capacity  he  served  during  the  Years  1800  &  1801. 
No  officer  could  be  more  attentive  prompt  and  efficient  in  the  execution 
of  the  several  duties  of  his  office — nor  was  there  any  more  emulous  to 
acquire  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  Military  profession,  nor  more  zealous, 
ardent  and  persevering  in  the  pursuit  of  scientific  improvement. 

It  was  these  qualities  and  disposition  of  mind  that  laid  the  foundation 
of  the  subsequent  Character  and  fame  of  Zebulon  M.  Pike  and  would 
probably  have  introduced  him  had  he  lived,  to  the  highest  honors,  at 
least,  in  the  military  profession  under  the  Republic. 

I  then  understood  that  his  only  means  of  Education  had  been  such  as 
could  be  obtained  in  Garrison  under  the  eye  of  his  father  then  Major 
Pike  at  the  several  posts  he  commanded,  notwithstanding  these  disad- 
vantage«  he  was  a  tolerable  good  english  scholar  and  wrote  a  good  hand 
when  I  knew  him  and  had  also  acquired  by  his  own  persevering  industry 
a  tolerably  good  knowledge  of  the  french  language — this  I  know  from  the 
fact  of  having  frequently  corrected,  at  his  own  request,  several  of  his 
translations  from  Fenelon's  Telemachus. 

Pike  was  very  gentlemanly  in  his  deportment — manners  agreeable  & 
polished,  rather  reserved  in  general  and  somewhat  taciturn  except  when 
incited  to  conversation  on  some  topic  in  which  he  felt  interest  and  ccr<- 
sidered  worthy  of  his  attention  he  had  less  levity  in  his  character  than 
even  many  of  his  brother  officers  Senior  to  him  in  Years  and  Rank.  His 
appearance  was  military  yet  somewhat  peculiar  he  generally  leaned  or 
inclined  his  head  on  one  side  so  that  the  tip  of  his  Chapeau  touched  his 
right  shoulder  when  on  parade — His  Stature  was  about  five  feet  eight 
inches  tolerably  square  and  robust  for  his  Age  which  I  think  must  have 
been  Twenty  Years  in  1800.  His  Complexion  was  then  Ruddy,  eyes 
blue,  light  hair  and  good  features  his  habits  were  in  keeping  with  his 
character,  uniformly  abstemious  and  temperate  his  attention  to  duty 
unremitted.  At  that  period  the  most  vexatious  evil  and  obstacle  that 
attended  the  maintenance  of  discipline  in  the  Army  was  the  general  and 
extensive  use  of  Ardent  Spirits,  Whiskey  among  the  Men  which  was  con- 
stantly being  introduced  in  Camp  by  the  Men  &  Women  attached  to  the 
service  and  other  hangers  on  around  the  Camp — On  one  occasion  return- 
ing to  Camp  from  Pittsburgh  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening  Pike  and 
myself  being  desirous  of  detecting  the  Soldiers  in  their  Clandestine 
manoeuvres  in  the  introduction  of  whiskey  approaching  the  Camp 
silently  through  the  bushes  and  occasionally  halting  to  listen  succeeded 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


XXV 


capturing  several  fellows  with  jugs  &  bottles  of  their  favorite  beverage, 

lot  however  without  a  race  after  them.     On  another  occasion  while 

jing  down  the  ohio  river  in  flats — The  flats  always  halted  for  the  night 

some  convenient  place  furnishing  good  ground  &  conveniences  for 

bivouacking  for  the  Night  a  guard  being  mounted  and  Sentinels  placed 

suitable  points  around  the  Camp.    The  Soldiers  were  then  permitted 

Land  build  fires  and  bivouac  on  shore  if  they  thought  proper  to  do  so 

preference  to  remaining  in  the  flats  crowded  as  they  were — there  was 

bout  70  men  detailed  for  the  purpose  of  managing  Ten  flats  containing 

ie  Provisions  under  my  Charge.    The  Signal  for  embarking  in  the 

lorning  was  the  Reveille  at  day  break  and  the  General  immediately 

Iter.    It  being  then  about  the  20  December  the  weather  was  Cold  and 

Igood  deal  of  ice  drifting  in  the  River.    The  men  generally  preferred 

Company  boats  where  they  had  to  labor  less  than  in  those  of  the 

^mmissariat  where  they  had  to  labor  constantly  to  keep  up  in  the  line 

reeably  to  the  order  regulating  the  movement  of  the  troops.    One 

brning  they  appeared  to  be  desirous  of  escaping  from  the  Commissariat 

lats  to  their  respective  Company  boats  in  hopes  of  getting  rid  of  the 

|ty  to  which  they  were  detailed  and  left  the  boats  as  fast  as  they  were 

dered  to  embark  until  Pike  observing  their  disobedience  seized  and 

rew  several  fire  brans  at  those  in  the  Act  of  leaving  the  boats  to  which 

l^y  had  been  detailed  and  called  to  me  to  assist  him  by  which  means 

I  men  were  taught  a  lesson  which  was  not  required  to  be  repeated  the 
j|due  of  the  journey  down  the  River. 

This  prompt  and  decided  course  on  the  part  of  Pike  was  not  only 

II  timed  but  very  important  as  it  prevented  much  disorder  and  Con- 
Ion  which  would  inevitably  have  ensued  had  he  taken  the  ordinary  and 
|ilar  but  slow  steps  to  punish  the  Mutineers,  to  bring  them  to  a  sense 

Suty.  the  moment  of  departure  had  arrived,  the  boats  were  un- 
bred, and  those  which  had  precedence  were  already  under  way  float- 

lown  the  rapid  current  of  the  Ohio  ;  The  Colonels  boat  particularly, 
thom  he  would  have  had  to  Report  was  already  at  some  distance — 
I  alternative  then,  which  he  adopted  as  quick  as  lightning  was  not  only 

pious  but  necessary  and  indispensible  under  the  Circumstances  of  the 
It  operated  a  Salutary  and  instantaneous  effect  upon  the  insubor- 

!te  Soldiery  which  at  once  brought  them  to  a  sense  of  duty  and 

This   circumstance  in  my  opinion  speaks  volumes  in  favor  of 

The  quickness  and  decision  which  characterized  the  transaction 

|shes  an  index  to  his  character  neither  to  be  mistaken  nor  misun- 

jtood. 

[ter  our  arrival  at  a  point  equidistant  between  Fort  Massac  &  the 

luence  of  the  Ohio  &  Mississippi  Rivers,  about  eighteen  miles  below 

I  Massac  the  Army  landed  on  the  5th  January  1801  at  a  high  Bluff 


XXVI        MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

on  the  right  Bank  of  the  River  where  they  encamped  cleared  the  ground 
Avhich  was  covered  with  heavy  timber  laid  out  an  encampment  after  the 
plan  of  Greenville  built  with  log  huts  which  was  named  Wilkinsonville. 

Some  time  in  the  summer  of  1801  he  obtained  a  furlow  to  visit  Cincin- 
nati as  it  was  believed,  on  a  matrimonial  expedition  at  which  time  he  was 
married  to  his  present  relict  Mrs.  Pike. 

During  the  period  alluded  to,  the  duties  of  the  Adjutant  were  arduous 
and  unremitting — especially  during  the  encampment  on  the  Allegheny  in 
addition  to  guard  and  police  duty — We  had  Battalion  drill  twice  or  thrice 
a  week  and  Company  drill  every  day ;  and  Officer  drill  once  or  twice  a 
week,  thus  you  can  perceive  that  our  time  was  industriously  appropriated 
to  the  acquisition  of  military  knowledge — We  had  also  the  advantage  of 
being  drilled  by  officers  that  served  under  the  gallant  Genl.  Wayne  and 
who  composed  part  of  his  Army  at  the  memorable  and  decisive  Battle  of 
the  20th  of  August  1794  at  the  Miami  Rapids — 

Colonel  John  Francis  Hamtramck*  of  the  ist  Regt  U.  S.  Infy  acted  as 
Brigadier  Genl.  under  Genl.  Wilkinson  being  the  senior  Colonel  of  the 
U.  S.  Army — his  remains  now  lie  within  a  stone's  throw  of  my  Office,  near 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  St  Anne — As  a  Memorial  of  affection 
the  principal  Town  above  this  City  and  within  the  County  of  Wayne 
bears  his  name  Hamtramck  as  he  was  much  beloved  by  the  inhabitants 
of  this  Country. 

Allow  me  here  to  make  mention  of  the  principal  Officers  composing 
the  Command  at  Camp  Allegheny.  Colo.  David  Strong,  Commandg 
2d  Regt  Infy,  Major  Moses  Porter  with  his  Co.  of  Artillery — Major 
Turner  Brigade  Inspector  Captains  Graeton,  Sedgwick,  Shoemaker, 
(Visscher,  stationed  at  fort  Fayette)  Grey,  Lukens,  Claiborne — Lieuts. 
Rand,  Whipple,  Schiras,  Hook,  Meriwether  Lewis,  Wilson — John  Wilson 
— Z.  M.  Pike,  Dill— &  to  which  was  added  at  Wilki  sonville  Lieuts. 
Williams,  Brevoort,  Hughes,  Hilton  Many  Blue  &  Others  together  with  a 
Battalion  of  the  4th  Regt.  under  Major  Butler — making  in  the  aggregate 
a  force  of  about  1000  effective  men.' 


'  This  officer  was  a  native  of  Canada,  appointed  to  the  army  from  New  York. 
He  had  served  as  a  captain  in  the  Revolutionary  Army  when  he  was  commis- 
sioned as  a  major  of  Infantry  Si^pt.  39th,  1789;  he  was  assigned  to  .ae  ist 
Infantry  Mar.  3d,  1791,  and  arranged  to  the  Second  sub-Legion  Sepi.  4th, 
X792  ;  he  became  lieutenant-colonel  commandant  of  the  First  sub-Legion  Feb. 
iSth,  1793,  and  colonel  of  the  1st  Infantry  Apr.  1st,  1802  ;  his  death  occurred 
Apr.  nth,  1803.  (Another  John  Francis  Hamtramck,  of  Indiana,  was  a 
sergeant  in  the  ist  Infantry  before  he  became  a  cadet  at  West  Point,  where 
he  was  graduated  in  1819,  continued  to  be  an  officer  of  the  army  till  1848,  and 
died  in  1858.) 

•  The  time  when  these  officers  were  together  at  Camp  Alleghany  must  have 


^H^T 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.       XXvii 


W'l-i 


during  the  summer  and  autumn  we  were  visited  by  Genl.  Wilkinson  & 
his  staff  Composed  of  Lieuts  Walbach  &  Macomb  &  Lieut.  Colo.  Wil- 

been  prior  to  Aug.  19th,  1801,  when  Lieutenant-Colonel  David  Strong  died. 
He  was  from  Connecticut ;  entered  the  army  as  a  captain  of  Infantry  Sept.  29th, 
1789  ;  became  major  of  the  2d  Infantry  Nov.  4th,  1791;  was  arranged  to  the 
Second  sub-Legion  Sept.  4th,  1792;  promoted  to  be  lieutenant-colonel  Feb. 
19th,   1793,  and  held  that  rank  in   the  2d  Infantry  from  Nov.  ist,  1796. — 
Moses  Porter,  of  Massachusetts,  had  served  in  the  Revolutionary  Army  when 
he  became  a  lieutenant  of  Artillery  Sept.  29th,  1789;   he  was  promoted  to  be 
I  captain  Nov.  4th,  1791;  major  May  26th,  1800,  and  colonel  Mar.  12th,  i8i2  ; 
[brevetted  brigadier-general  Sept.  lOth,  1813,  for  distinguished  services,  and 
[died  April  14th,  1823. — Edward  D.    Turner,  of    Massachusetts,  entered  the 
I  army  as  an  ensign  of  the  2d  Infantry  Mar.  4th,  1791  ;  became  a  lieutenant 
Ijuly  13th,  1792;  captain,  Nov.  nth,   1793,   and   was  brigade  inspector  from 
[Nov.  1st,  1799,  to  April  1st,  1802 ;  he  resigned   Nov.  30th,  1805. — Richard 
{Humphrey  Greaton  (not  "  Graeton"),  of  Massachusetts,  was  made  a  lieutenant 
iin  the  2d  Infantry    Mar.  4th,   1791  ;    became  captain  Feb.  iSth,  1793,  and 
I  was  honorably  discharged  June  i,  1802, — Theodore  Sedgwick,  of  Massachusetts, 
Ibecame  an  ensign  of  the  2d  Infantry  Mar.  4th,  1791  ;  lieutenant,  July  30th, 
II792  ;  captain,  Dec.  29th,  1793,  and  was  honorably  discharged  June  1st,  1802. — 
IPeter  Shoemaker,  of  Pennsylvania,  appointed  ensign  in  the  2d  Infantry  Apr. 
|ilth,  1793;   became  lieutenant  Mar.  3d,  1793;    captain,  Mar.  3d,   1799,  and 
vas  honorably  discharged  June  1st,  1802. — Nanning  John  Visscher,  of  New 
fork,  entered  the  army  as  an  ensign  in  the  2d  Infantry  Mar.  i6th,  1792  ; 
became  lieutenant  May  ist,  1794,  and  captain  Nov.  Ist,  1799  ;  he  was  honora- 
bly discharged  June   1st,  1802  ;  was  afterward  made  a  captain  of  Rifles  Apr. 
^6th,  1809;  resigned  Nov.  30th,  1812,  and  died  Dec.  I2th,  1821. — Archibald 
}ray  (not "  Grey  "),  of  Virginia,  WiW  made  an  ensign  of  Infantry  Mar.   7th, 
hga ;  lieutenant,  May  ist,  1794 ;  was  assigned  to  the  2d  Infantry  Nov.  1st, 
[796;   became  captain  Nov.   1st,  1799,  and   resigned  July  Ist,  1801. — Jesse 
Lukens,  of  Pennsylvania,  was  appointed  an  ensign  in  the  Second  sub-Legion 
["eb.  23d,  1793;  became  lieutenant  Oct.  1st,  1793  ;  was  assigned  to  the  2d 
Infantry  Nov.  ist,  1796  ;  promoted  to  be  captain  Mar.  3d,  1799,  and  died  May 
list,  1801. — Ferdinand  Leigh  Claiborne,  of  Virginia,  was  made  an  ensign  of 
|he  First  sub-Legion  Feb.  23d,  1793  ;  lieutenant,  June  30th,  1794  ;  assigned  to 
be  1st  Infantry  Nov.  1st,  1796 ;  promoted  to  be  captain  Oct.  23d,  1799,  and 
^igned  Jan.  ist,  1802 ;  he  was  afterward  a  colonel  and  brigadier-general  of 
blunteersin  the  war  of  1812-14,  and  died  in  February,  1815. — Benjamin  Rand, 
Massachusetts,  became  ensign  in  the  Second  sub-Legion  May  12th,  1794 ; 
as  assigned  to  the    2d  Infantry  as  such  Nov.  i,    1796  ;  became  lieutenant 
|[ar.  loth,  1797,  and  resigned  Dec.  29th,   1800. — John  Whipple  became  an 
nsign  in  the  2d   Infantry  July   loth,  1797  ;  a  lieutenant   Mar.    2d,    1799  ; 
transferred  to  the  ist  InSntry  April  1st,  i8oa  ;  made  captain  Apr.   nth, 
03,  and  resigned  Jan.  31st,  1807. — Peter  Shiras  (not  "Schiras"),  of  Pennsyl- 
Inia,  was  commissioned  a  second  lieutenant  of    the  2d  Infantry  Mar.    3d, 


m 


P  ■  I 


'-  Hi. 


XXVlii      MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


liams  of  the  Engineer  Corps.^  about  this  period  sickness  among  the 
troops  and  many  deaths  occurred  in  consequence  of  which  the  Troops 

1799 ;  promoted  to  be  first  lieutenant  Nv.v.  22d,  1799,  and  honorably  discharged 
June  I,  1802. — Moses  Hook,  of  Massachusetts,  was  commissioned  as  a  second 
lieutenant  of  the  1st  Infantry  Mar.  3d,  1799 ;  became  first  lieutenant  Oct. 
23d,  1799  ;  captain,  Mar.  13th,  1805,  and  resigned  Jan.  20th,  1808.  (Merri- 
wether  Lewis  intended  to  take  this  ofhcer  with  him,  in  the  event  of  William 
Clark's  declination  of  his  invitation  :  on  this  point,  see  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed. 
1893,  pp.  xxiv,  Ikx.) — ^John  Wilson,  of  Pennsylvania,  was  a  second  lieuten- 
ant of  the  2d  In.tantrr  frotn  Mar.  3d,  1799,  to  Nov.  22d,  1799,  when  he 
became  first  lieut jr!<nt ;  lie  was  honorably  discharged  June  1st,  1802. — James 
Dill,  of  Pennsylv&iiia,  vas  made  a  second  lieutenant  of  the  2d  Infantry  Mar. 
3d,  1799;  *  first  lieutei.i  '  Nov.  1st,  1799,  *"»d  honorably  discharged  June 
15th,  1800. — The  above  named  Lieut.  Williams  is  not  fully  identified. — Henry 
B.  Brevoort,  of  New  York,  was  commissioned  a  second  lieutenant  of  the  3d 
Infantry  Feb.  i6th,  1801,  and  retained  as  an  ensign  in  the  2d  Infantry  May 
7th,  1802  (?) ;  was  second  lieutenant  of  the  same  July  ist,  1802  ;  first  lieutenant 
Nov.  30th,  1805;  captain  May  ist,  181 1;  major  in  the  45th  Infantry  Apr. 
15th,  1814,  and  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815. — Daniel  Hughes,  of 
Maryland,  was  made  an  ensign  of  the  9th  Infantry  Jan.  8th,  1799  >  ^  second 
lieutenant  Mar.  3d.  1799,  ^^^  honorably  discharged  June  iSth,  1800;  he  was 
reappointed  second  lieutenant  of  the  2d  Infantry  Feb.  i6th,  1801,  and 
transferred  to  the  1st  Infantry  Apr.  1st,  1802 ;  became  first  lieutenant  Mar. 
23d,  1805  ;  captain,  Dec.  15th,  1808 ;  major  of  the  2d  Infantry  Feb.  Sist, 
1814  and  was  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815. — The  Lieutenant 
"  Hilton"  is  probably  an  error. — For  James  B.  Many  see  note**,  p.  2io. — 
Uriah  Blue,  of  Virginia,  was  commissioned  as  a  second  lieutenant  of 
the  8th  Infantry  July  12th,  1799,  ^^^  honorably  discharged  June  15th, 
i8od ;  reappointed  as  a  second  lieutenant  in  the  2d  Infantry  Feb.  i6th, 
1801,  and  honorably  discharged  again  June  1st,  1802  ;  reappointed  as 
first  lieutenant  of  the  7th  Infantry  May  3d,  1808  ;  became  captain  May 
9th,  1809;  major  of  the  39th  Infantry  Mar.  13th,  1814 ;  was  honorably 
discharged  June  15th,  1815,  and  reinstated  Dec.  2d,  1815,  as  a  captain  in  the 
8th  Infantry,  to  rank  as  such  from  May  9th,  1809,  and  with  brevet  of  major 
from  Mar.  13th,  1814  ;  he  resigned  Dec.  3d,  1816,  and  died  in  May,  1836.— 
Edward  Butler,  of  Pennsylvania,  had  been  a  captain  in  the  levies  of  1791, 
when  he  was  made  a  captain  of  Infantry  Mar.  5th,  1792,  and  arranged 
to  the  Fourth  sub-Legion  Sept.  4th,  1892 ;  acted  as  adjutant  and  inspector 
from  July  i8th,  1793,  to  May  13th,  1794  ;  was  assigned  to  the  4th  Infantry 
Nov.  1st,  1796,  and  transferred  to  the  2d  Infantry  April  ist,  1802  ;  died  May 
9th,  1803.     (For  Williams  and  "  Hilton  "  see  these  names  in  Index.) 

^  John  De  Barth  Walbach  was  a  native  of  Germany,  who  was  commissioned 
from  Pennsylvania  as  a  lieutenant  of  Light  Dragoons  Jan.  8th,  1799,  and  hon- 
orably discharged  June  15th,  1800.  He  re-entered  the  service  as  a  lieutenant 
of  the  2d  Artillerists  and  Engineers  Feb.  i6th,  1801,  and  was  retained  in  the 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.        xxix 


were  removed  by  order  of  Genl.  Wilkinson  to  Cumberland  Heights*  a 
season  of  inactivity  and  a  prospect  unfavorable  to  Military  life  prevailing 
— many  Officers  resigned  and  sought  to  obtain  a  livelihood  by  other 
means  than  the  profession  of  arms.  These  and  other  subsequent  events 
are  matters  of  history  and  I  shall  therefore  close  these  short  notes  by 
pointing  to  the  subsequent  life  and  services  of  the  lamented  Zebulon  M. 
Pike. 

My  opportunities  of  acquaintance  with  him  arose  from  the  Circum- 
stance of  having  messed  with  Captain  Peter  Shoemaker  and  himself 
about  Eight  Months  without  intermission  we  three  being  the  only  mem- 
bers of  the  Mess. 

In  conclusion,  it  may  not  be  inappropriate  to  remark  that  the  period 
alluded  to  was  during  a  state  of  peace.    Yet,  whilst  the  prospect  lasted 

Artillerists  April  1st,  1802  ;  he  became  captain  Jan.  31st,  1806,  and  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  Corps  of  Artillery  May  12th,  1814.  During  the  war  he  served  in 
various  capacities,  with  ranks  of  major  and  colonel,  and  was  among  those 
retained  as  captain  of  Artillery  May  17th,  1815.  He  became  major  Apr.  25th, 
1818,  and  was  transferred  to  the  1st  Artillery  June  ist,  1821  ;  promoted  to  be 
lieutenant-colonel  May  30th.  1832,  and  to  be  colonel  of  the  4th  Artillery 
March  19th,  1842.  He  was  repeatedly  brevetted  for  gallant,  meritorious, 
and  faithful  services ;  his  latest  brevet  being  that  of  brigadier-general  Nov. 
nth,  1823.  General  Walbach  died  June  loth,  1857.  An  unpublished  letter 
before  me,  from  General  Wilkinson  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  dated  St.  Louis, 
Nov.  26th,  1805,  refers  to  Lieutenant  Walbach  in  the  following  terms  :  "  In 
every  cavalry  arrangement  I  must  beg  leave  to  call  Walbach  to  your  recollection, 
as  the  ablest  horse  officer  in  America,  not  only  in  the  choice  of  animals,  but  in 
equipping,  training,  forming,  and  heading  them  to  action." 

Alexander  Macomb  was  commander-in-chief  of  the  army  from  May  Sgth, 
1828,  to  his  death,  June  25th,  1841.  He  was  brevetted  major-general  Sept. 
nth,  1814,  and  received  the  thanks  of  Congress  Nov.  3d,  1814,  for  distin- 
guished and  gallant  conduct  at  Plattsbui^h,  N.  Y.  General  Macomb  entered 
the  army  as  a  cornet  of  Light  Dragoons  Jan.  loth,  1799  ;  attained  the  rank  of 
brigadier-general  in  1814,  and  major-general  in  1828. 

Jonathan  Williams,  of  Massachusetts,  was  appointed  from  Pennsylvania  a 
major  of  the  2d  Artillerists  and  Engineers  Feb.  i6th,  1801  ;  he  served  as 
inspector  of  fortifications  from  Dec.  14th,  1801,  to  June  1st,  1802,  and  was 
retained  as  major  of  Engineers  April  1st,  1802.  He  resigned  June  20th,  1803  ; 
was  made  lieutenant-colonel  and  chief  engineer  Apr.  19th,  1805,  and  pro- 
moted to  be  colonel  Feb.  23d,  1808.  He  resigned  again  July  31st,  1812, 
and  died  May  20th,  1815. 

*  Mr.  Jefferson  having  been  elected  President  of  the  U.  S.  The  policy  of 
the  Government  changed  instead  of  wresting  the  posts  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  from  Spain  by  force  of  Arms  as  was  previously  contemplated — They 
were  eventually  obtained  by  peaceable  &  Successful  negociation.     (Orig.  note.) 


1   I 


XXX 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


k 


%■ 

i:l:i 


that  the  Troops  might  soon  expect  active  service  against  the  frontiers  of 
the  then  possessions  of  Spain — The  Zeal,  Ardor,  Enterprize  and  ambi- 
tion of  our  Army  could  not  have  been  surpassed ;  and  would  have  sus- 
tained a  comparison  with  the  best  and  most  glorious  days  of  the 
Revolution,  or  of  the  late  War  with  Britain,  or  the  later  achievements  of 
our  Braves  against  the  forces  of  Mexico. 

You  are  at  liberty  to  use  these  notes  in  such  manner  as  will  meet  the 
object  you  have  in  view. 

With  respectful  Consideration 

I  am  Dear  Sir  Your  Obedt  Servt 

JNO.  R.  Williams. 
Major  Amos  Holton 
VCi      ngton  City,  D.  C. 

transmitted  the  foregoing  by 
Mail  Augt  26th  1846.* 

The  .iiatnnionial  expedition  "  to  which  the  foregoing 
letter  quaintly  alludes  was  successful,  like  Pike's  other 
expeditions  of  later  date  and  greater  celebrity.  The  young 
lieutenant  was  married  in  1801  (day  of  the  month  not  ascer- 
tained) to  Clarissa  Brown,  daughter  of  General  John  Brown 
of  Kentucky.  Whiting  says  that  the  issue  of  this  connec- 
tion was  "  three  daughters  and  one  son.  Only  one  of  these 
children  reached  the  maturity  of  life,  a  daughter,  who  mar- 
ried Symmes  Harrison,  the  son  of  General  [William  Henry] 
Harrison,  and  became  a  widow,  many  years  since,  with 
several  children."  Whiting  continues  with  the  following 
statements,  embodying  perhaps  as  much  as  has  hitherto 
been  published  of  Pike's  domestic  relations: 

•  Note  by  Lieutenant  J.  R.  Williams,  May  igth,  1894:  "The  foregoing  is 
a  literal  copy  of  the  rough  draft  of  John  R.  Williams'  letter  to  Major  Holton. 
The  fair  copy  of  course  is  not  in  my  possession,  but  I  have  reason  to  believe 
the  fair  copy  must  contain  several  of  the  peculiar  errors  of  the  writer,  whose 
early  education  was  wholly  French,  so  that  he  never,  as  far  as  I  know,  capital- 
ized the  initial  letters  of  such  words  as  English  and  French.  John  R.  Williams, 
writer  of  this  letter,  entered  the  2d  U.  S.  Infantry  as  a  cadet  early  in  1800,  but 
appears  to  have  resigned  in  about  six  months.  He  was  subsequently  connected 
with  the  same  regiment  for  about  a  year  in  the  capacity  of  agent  of  the  con- 
tractor for  commissary  supplies.  The  title  of  general,  by  which  he  is  well 
remembered  in  Detroit,  was  acquired  by  his  connection  with  the  militia  of 
Michigan  for  about  40  years,  as  adjutant-general  and  major-general." 


I 


IIIIU 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


XXXI 


Mrs.  Pike  withdrew  to  the  seclusion  of  a  family  residence  [at  North 
Bend]  on  the  Ohio  River  just  below  Cincinnati,  soon  after  the  fall  of 
her  gallant  husband,  where  she  has  since  lived.  It  is  well  recollected  by 
most  of  the  officers  who  served  on  Lake  Ontario  in  the  early  part  of  the 
campaign  of  1813,  that  he  regarded  her  with  enthusiastic  sentiments, 
believing  her  to  share  in  all  his  ardent  longi'  "^s  after  distinction,  and 
willing  to  make  any  sacrifice  for  their  fulfilment.  No  doubt  it  was  with 
a  heart  strengthened  by  such  feelings,  that  she  parted  with  him  on  the 
eve  of  the  expedition  in  which  he  fell ;  though  she  may  have  felt,  during 
her  long  widowhood,  that  the  sacrifice,  with  all  its  honorable  alleviations, 
has  been  at  times  as  much  as  that  heart  could  bear. 

There  was  found  an  interesting  memorandum  on  one  of  the  blank 
pages  of  a  copy  of "  Dodsley's  Economy  of  Human  Life,"  •  which  General 

'This  is  a  remarkable  book,  which  has  had  a  very  exceptional  career,  the 
end  of  which  is  not  even  yet.  Robert  Dodsley,  b.  1703,  d.  Sept.  23d,  1764, 
was  in  early  life  a  menial  in  the  service  of  Hon.  Mrs.  Lowther,  but  became  by 
his  natural  talents  a  wealthy  publisher,  as  well  as  a  prolific  author.  In  the 
latter  capacity  he  was  scarcely  rated  as  more  than  a  hack  writer  in  his  lifetime, 
during  which  he  was  probably  never  suspected  of  having  written  an  immortal 
book.  Whether  this  was  a  stroke  of  his  own  genius  or  not  is  questionable  ; 
but  he  should  have  the  full  credit  of  the  book,  until  an  extraneous  source  of  his 
inspiration  can  be  instanced.  The  CEconomy  of  Human  Life  was  first  pub- 
lished anonymously  in  a  collection  of  miscellanies,  in  1745,  and  soon  acquired 
great  repute,  in  part  at  least  due  to  the  fact  that  it  was  commonly  attributed  to 
Lord  Chesterfield.  It  ran  through  many  editions  in  various  styles,  some  of 
them  finely  illustrated.  The  earlier  ones  all  preserved  the  author's  anonymity, 
and  in  more  than  one  reprint  of  very  late  years  his  incognito  is  formally  pre- 
served. An  anonymous  edition  of  1806,  which  I  have  handled,  consists  only  of 
Book  I,  Parts  i-vii,  entitled  as  follows :  The  |  CEconomy  |  of  |  Human  Life,  | 
translated  from  an  |  Indian  Manuscript,  |  written  by  an  Ancient  Bramin  |  —  | 
London :  |  printed  for  W.  Gardiner,  Pail-Mall ;  and  |  Vernor,  Hood,  and 
Sharpe,  Poultny.  |  I  vol.,  i2mo,  pp.  i-x,  i  leaf,  pp.  1-116,  and  many  engr. 
head-  and  tail-pieces.  Another,  of  1809,  with  the  liuthorship  avowed,  is  as 
follows  :  The  |  Economy  |  of  |  Human  I  ife.  |  In  Two  Books.  |  —  |  By  Robert 
Dodsley.  (  —  |  With  six  elegant  engravings  by  Mackenzie,  |  from  designs  by 
Craig  and  Unwins.  |  —  |  London  :  |  [etc.,  4  lines  of  printers'  names]  |  —  | 
1809.  I  vol.,  i6mo,  I  prel.  leaf,  vignette  title,  pp.  i-xviii,  5-188  ;  portrait  and 
memoir  of  Dodsley,  and  5  full-page  engravings  ;  said  to  have  been  pub. 
Jan.  31st,  i8og.  The  copy  Pike  had  was  most  probably  one  of  the  cheap 
American  reprints  which  appeared  about  this  time.  Dodsley's  book  consists  of 
philosophical  and  moral  reflections  or  aphorisms  in  curt,  sententious  style,  of 
<iistinctly  Oriental  flavor ;  it  is  feigned  to  be  based  upon  manuscripts  of 
immense  antiquity,  discovered  in  the  capital  of  Tibet  by  an  emissary  of  the 
emperor  of  China,  and  in  some  occult  manner  received  in  England  and  trans- 


t\t 


1  .i 


-\i 


1 1 


XXxii       MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 

Pike  habitually  carried  about  with  him.  After  affectionately  alluding  to 
his  wife,  and  his  son  then  living,  he  lays  down  two  maxims,  which  he 
wishes  may  ever  be  present  to  the  mind  of  his  child,  "  as  he  rises  from 
youth  to  manhood."  "  First :  Preserve  your  honor  free  from  blemish. 
Second  :  Be  always  ready  to  die  for  your  country."  This  son  was  cut  off 
too  soon  to  exemplify  the  former  in  his  life,  or  the  latter  in  his  death ; 
but  the  father,  in  his  life  and  in  his  death,  exemplitied  them  both. 

On  seeking  for  information  in  regard  to  General  Pike's 
daughter  and  her  children,  I  first  wrote  to  ex-President 
Benjamin  Harrison,  by  whom  I  was  favored  with  prompt 
reply,  in  part  as  follows  : 

674  North  Delaware  Street, 

Indianapolis,  Ind.,  May  24,  1894. 
Mv  Dear  Sir  :  • 

I  have  your  letter  of  May  21st.  My  uncle,  Symmes  Harrison,  married 
the  daughter  of  General  P'ke  and  left  several  children ;  but  I  do  not 
think  I  know  of  but  one  who  survives — William  Henry  Harrison,  who 
lives  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  old  Pike  homestead  on  the  Ohio  River, 
about  two  and  a  half  miles  below  my  grandfather's  old  home  at  North 
Bend.  .  .  I  cannot  give  you  the  names  of  General  Pike's  children  ;  I  was 
too  young  to  have  any  knowledge  of  them.  Possibly  my  eldest  sister, 
Mrs.  Bettie  H.  Eaton,  who  is  now  residing  at  El  Paso,  Texas,  may  be 
able  to  give  you  some  information  about  the  Pike  family. 

Very  truly  yours, 

[Signed]     BENJAMIN  HARRISON. 

Mrs.  Bettie  Harrison  Eaton  was  kind  enough  to  reply  to 
my  further  inquiries,  in  a  letter  dated  El  Paso,  Tex.,  July 
2d,  1894,  from  which  I  quote  in  substance: 

My  cousin's,  William  Henry  Harrison's,  mother  was  a  daughter  of 
General  Pike,  whose  maiden  name  was  Clarissa  Harlowe  Pike.  She 
was  married  to  my  uncle,  John  Cleves  Symmes  Harrison,  but  in  what 
year  I  do  not  know.     Indeed,  I  know  very  little  about  the  Pike  family, 

lated.  I  liked  the  thing  so  much  that  I  lately  brought  out  a  new  edition  myself, 
preserving  the  author's  feigned  origin  of  the  book  and  his  own  incognito,  trans- 
posing some  of  the  pieces,  adding  a  new  ' '  foreword  "  in  antique  style,  and 
modifying  the  title  to — Kuthumi :  The  True  and  Complete  CEconomy  of 
Human  Life,  etc.  In  this  guise  Dodsley's  book  forms  No.  5  of  my  Biogen 
Series,  Boston,  Estes  and  Lauriat,  1886;  i  vol.,  small  square  Svo,  pp.  i-x, 
1-123. 


|.M;- 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY   PIKE.        XXXiii 

as  I  always  understood  that  my  aunt  was  General  Pike's  only  child  ;  if 
he  had  others  I  never  heard  of  them.  I  remember  her  very  slightly,  as  I 
was  quite  a  little  girl  when  she  died.  Her  mother,  Mrs.  General  Pike, 
of  whom  I  have  a  better  memory,  was  a  tall,  dignified,  rather  austere 
looking  woman,  who  always  dressed  in  deep  black,  wearing  always  a 
large  black  Canton  crape  shawl  and  a  black  crape  turban  on  her  head, 
which  to  my  childish  eyes  gave  her  a  somewhat  awe-inspiring  appearance. 
She  was  a  highly  educated  and  accomplished  woman,  and  a  fine  French 
scholar.  She  kept  for  many  years  a  diary,  which  was  written  in  French. 
My  cousin,  to  whom  I  refer  you,  lives  on  the  old  Pike  homestead,  and 
could  probably  give  you  the  dates  you  wish,  as  he  no  doubt  has  the 
family  Bible,  and  the  old  graveyard  where  the  family  are  buried  is  on 
the  place. 

On  applying  to  William  Henry  Harrison  of  North  Bend, 
0.,  I  received  a  brief  note  dated  Sept.  lOth,  1894,  in  which 
the  following  information  is  given  :  "  My  house  burned 
some  years  ago,  when  all  General  Pike's  private  papers 
were  lost.  He  had  but  one  child,  my  mother  Clara.  His 
wife's  maiden  name  was  Clara  Brown ;  she  was  the  daughter 
of  Captain  John  Brown  of  Revolutionary  fame." 

With  thus  much — none  too  complete,  but  all  that  I  have 
in  hand — concerning  Pike's  private  life,  we  return  to  his 
public  career.  The  unnumbered  extant  notices  to  which 
the  fame  that  he  acquired  gave  rise  are  mainly  and  most 
naturally  devoted  to  the  consideration  of  the  Mississippian, 
Arkansan,  and  Mexican  exploits  which  form  the  matter  of 
the  present  volumes,  but  which  need  not  occupy  the  present 
biographer,  as  they  speak  for  themselves.  These  cover  the 
dates  of  1805-6-7 ;  and  before  taking  up  Pike's  life  in  1808, 
we  may  next  consider  the  bibliography  of  the  books  to 
which  his  expeditions  gave  rise. 

The  earliest  one  of  these,  forerunner  of  the  regular 
er^ition  of  i8io,  is  entitled  :     . 

An  Account  \  of  a  \  Voyage  \  up  the  Mississippi  River,  from  St.  \ 
Louis  to  its  source  ;  \  made  under  the  orders  of  the  War  De-  \ 
partment,  by  Lieut.  Pike,  of  the  Uni-  \  ted  States  Army,  in  the 
Years  i8oj  and  \  1806.     Compiled  from  Mr.  Pike's  Jour-  \  nal.  \ 


i 


M 


!»> 


I1 


i    1 


S\ 


t    ! 


!  V 


.  J 


XXXiv      MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

Pamphlet,  8vo.,  pp.  1-68,  no  date,  no  author,  no  editor,  no  publisher,  no 
printer,  no  place  of  publication ;  title,  verso  blank,  pp.  1,2;  text, 
pp.  3-67,  with  colophon  ("  Finis.") ;  p.  68  being  "  Extract  of  a  letter 
from  N.  Boilvin  [Nicholas  Boivin]  Indian  agent,  |  to  the  Secretary 
of  War,  dated  St.  Louis,  |  Oct.  6.  1806.  |  " 

This  is  an  extremely  rare  tract.  I  have  handled  two 
copies,  one  of  which  I  own,  title  page  gone ;  the  other 
being  a  perfect  example  in  the  Library  of  Congress  at 
Washington.  There  is  a  third  in  the  Ridgway  Library  of 
Philadelphia ;  and  Sabin's  Bibl.  Amer.  cites  a  fourth,  in  the 
library  of  the  American  Antiquarian  Society  at  Worcester, 
Mass.  These  are  all  that  I  know  of,  though  of  course 
others  exist.  The  authorship  and  circumstances  of  publi- 
cation remain  unknown,  to  me  at  least.  Sabin  gives  the 
date  1807  ;  this  is  probably  correct,  certainly  true  within  a 
year,  but  questionable.  I  adopt  it,  in  view  of  its  proba- 
bility, and  in  the  absence  of  conclusive  evidence  against  it, 
though  Whiting  says  1 808.  But  early  in  1808  Pike  was 
already  arranging  for  the  publication  of  his  own  book, 
which  appeared  in  1810.  Pike  does  not  even  allude  to  this 
publication,  either  in  his  own  book,  or  in  any  of  the  manu- 
scripts I  have  seen  in  which  the  latter  is  mentioned.  On 
consultation  with  Mr.  A.  R.  Spofford  over  the  general 
aspect  and  "  make-up,"  no  deflnite  conclusion  could  be 
reached  by  that  exceptionally  well-versed  librarian.  It 
is  supposed  by  some,  not  without  plausibility,  to  have 
been  a  government  publication  ;  but  Mr.  Spofiford's  igno- 
ance  of  the  fact,  if  it  be  such,  is  against  this  supposi- 
tion ;  for  a  publication  which  he  cannot  recognize  on  sight 
as  having  been  issued  in  Washington  is  unlikely.  The 
tract  looks  as  if  it  formed  a  part  of  something  else ;  wit- 
ness the  peculiar  set  of  the  title  page,  the  conclusion  of  the 
Pike  matter  on  p.  67,  and  the  appearance  on  p.  68  of  the 
Boivin  letter,  having  no  obvious  connection  with  the  rest. 
However  all  this  may  really  have  been,  there  is  no  ques- 
tion of  the  genuineness  of  this  unauthenticated  narrative. 
Pike  never  penned  it — he  could  not  write  so  well  as  the 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY   PIKE.       XXXV 

anonymous  author  of  this  tract  did.  But  whoever  wrote  it 
had  Pike's  original  manuscript  journal  or  note-book  before 
him,  and  followed  him  closely,  faithfully,  and  accurately. 
Pike's  case  is  put  in  the  third  person  by  the  writer,  who 
gives  in  narrative  form  a  better  account  of  the  Mississippi 
voyage  than  Pike's  slender  literary  attainments  enabled 
him  to  write  for  himself.  This  "text  of  1807,"  as  I  shall 
call  it,  when  I  have  occasion  to  cite  it  in  my  commentary, 
is  an  invaluable  check  upon  Pike's  own  itinerary ;  he  cannot 
have  been  unaware  of  its  existence,  and  the  friendly  hand 
which  thus  first  gave  to  the  world  the  best  account  extant 
of  the  Mississippi  voyage  should  not  have  been  ignored 
when  Pike  came  to  write  out  his  notes  for  publication  in  the 
princeps  edition  of  his  several  expeditions,  of  date  18 10." 

Immediately  upon  his  escape  from  his  Spanish  captors 
and  hosts,  and  his  return  to  his  native  land,  Pike  set  about 
writing  his  book.  This  was  finished — or  at  any  rate  so  far 
advanced  that  a  contract  for  its  publication  had  been  made 
— early  in  1808  (see  letter  of  May  27th,  1808,  beyond,  p.  Ixi). 
The  original  edition  of  his  Expeditions  is  as  follows : 

[iSio.]—An  Account  of  Expeditions  \  to  the  \  Sources  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, I  and  through  the  \  Western  Parts  of  Louisiana,  \  to  the 

'<>  Another  good  editorial  version  of  Pike's  Mississippi  itinerary  appeared  in 
the  tract  entitled  :  Materials  for  the  Future  History  of  Minnesota,  etc.,  the 
same  being  Part  V.  of  the  publications  of  the  Minn.  Hist.  Soc,  8vo,  St.  Paul, 
1856,  pp.  about  142.  The  five  separately  issued  Parts,  dating  1850-56,  were  in 
1S72  collectively  republished  in  a  second  edition,  forming  Vol.  I.  of  the  Collec- 
tions of  the  Minn.  Hist.  Soc,  8vo,  pp.  1-519.  In  this  reprint  the  article  is 
entitled :  Pike's  Explorations  in  Minnesota,  1805-06,  and  occupies  pp.  368- 
416,  or  48  pages,  being  thus  about  as  extensive  as  the  text  of  1807.  The  editor 
says  that  his  aim  was  "  to  make  judicious  extracts"  from  Pike's  journal  ;  and 
he  certainly  succeeded  in  this  intention.  The  editor's  name  does  not  appear  ; 
but  as  the  footnotes  which  explain  or  amplify  various  points  in  the  text  are 
signed  "  W.,"  an  initial  of  Mr.  J.  Fletcher  Williams,  who  was  secretary  of  the 
society  and  editor  of  its  publications  for  many  years,  the  work  is  presumably 
his,  being  thus  an  authentic  as  well  as  a  genuine  account  of  the  Mississippi 
voyage.  This  publication  therefore  ranks  side  by  side  with  the  original 
unknown  editor's  performance,  though  the  two  aie  separated  by  an  interval  of 
half  a  century. 


ill 


hi' 


1 


XXXVJ      MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 

Sources  of  the  \  Arkansaw,  Kans,  La  Platte,  and  Pierre  \  Jaun, 
Rivers  ;  \  performed  by  order  of  the  \  Government  of  the  United 
States  I  during  the  years  i8oj,  1806,  and  1S07.  |  And  a  Tour 
through  I  the  \  Interior   Parts  of  New  Spain,  \  when   c  -■' 

through  these   Provinces,  \  by  order  of  \  the   Captain-d        .«,  ( 

in  the  Year  1807.  \ |  By  Major  Z.  M.  Pike.  \  Illustrated  by 

maps  and  charts,  \ |  Philadelphia :  \  Published  by  C.  and  A. 

Conrad,  &*  Co.  No,  jo,  Chesnut  Street.  Somer-  \  veil  6-  Conrad. 
Peter sburgh.     Bonsai,  Conrad,  &*  Co.   Norfolk,  |  and   Fielding 

Lucas,  Jr.  Baltimore.  | |  John  Binns,  Printer iSio.  \ 

One  Vol.  8vo. 


n! 


CONTENTS. 

Portrait  of  Pike,  frontispiece. 

Title,  backed  with  copyright,  pp.  [i],  [2]. 

To  the  Public,  being  Preface  by  Pike  and  publisher's  Apology,  pp.  [3]-[5] ; 
blank,  p.  [6]. 

Dedication,  To  the  President  and  Members  of  the  U.  S.  M.  P.  *^.,  one 
leaf  not  paginated,  verso  blank  (^  pp.  7,  8). 

Part  I.,  being  the  Mississippi  Voyage  :  Pike's  Itinerary,  pp.  i-K  nk, 

p.  106  ;  Meteorological  Tables,  5  unnumbered  leaves,  raising  pages  to 
116,  last  blank. 

Part  II.,  being  the  Arkansaw  Journey ;  Instructions  to  Pike,  pp.  107-110; 
Pike's  Itinerary,  pp.  11 1-204. 

Part  III.,  being  the  Mexican  Tour;  Pike's  Itinerary,  pp.  205-277  ;  p.  278 
blank ;  one  blank  leaf ;  Meteorological  Table,  one  unpaged  leaf. 

Appendix  to  Part  I.,  pp.  1-66  (last  not  numbered)+2  folding  Tables; 
contains  Documents  Nos.  1-18,  and  some  others  (No.  18,  pp.  41-66, 
is  Observations,  etc.,  on  the  Mississippi  Voyage)  ;  the  folders  are 
Tables  C  and  F  (other  tables  being  on  pages),  respectively  to  face  p. 
40  and  p.  66. 

Appendix  to  Part  II.,  pp.  1-53  (p.  54  blank),-}-!  folding  Table  to  face  p. 
53;  contains  (No.  i)  A  Dissertation,  etc.,  on  the  Arkansaw  Journey, 
pp.  1-18;  (No.  2)  Lieut.  Wilkinson's  Report  on  his  Arkansaw 
Expedition,  pp.  19-32  ;  and  other  Documents  to  No.  15. 

Appendix  to  Part  III.,  pp.  1-87  (p.  88  blank) ;  contains  (No.  i)  Geograph- 
ical, Statistical,  and  General  Observations,  etc.,  on  the  Mexican 
Tour,  pp.  I -5 1,  by  far  the  most  important  thing  in  the  book  ;  No.  2, 
pp.  52,  53,  a  certain  Vocabulary  belonging  to  the  Mississippi  Voy- 
age, and  therefore  to  App.  to  Part  I.;  with  other  Documents  to 
No.  19. 

Map,  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  page  size. 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE.       XXXVii 


Map,  Mississippi  river,  about  29}  x  9  inches. 

Map,  the    First    Part    of    Pike's  Chart   of    Louisiana,  folding,  about 

i7'A  X  I7>i  inches,  called  Plate  I. 
Map,  the  Second   Part  of   Pike's  Chart  of  Louisiana,   folding,  about 

17  X  iS^  inches,  called  Plate  II. 
Map,  Internal  Provinces  of  New  Spain,  about  i8}4  ^  ^7H  inches. 
Map,  Sketch  of  the  Viceroyalty  of  New  Spain,  about  15I  x  I2|  inches. 
Total  p.iges  8-{-278-|-io-|-4-|-66-|-S4+88=5o8,  some  not  paginated,  a  few 

blank  ;  5  sets  of  pagination.     Inserts  i  portrait,  3  folding  tables,  6 

maps  (5  folding) =10.    Folders  all  may  be  found  in  a  separate  vol.  in 

some  copies. 

It  has  been  said,  "The  pen  is  mightier  than  the  sword." 
Pike's  pen  proved  mightier  than  his  sword,  and  pistols  too, 
in  putting  bookmaking  to  confusion  and  editors  to  despair. 
It  would  be  hard  to  find  a  match  for  the  disorder  in  which 
Pike's  materials  were  set  forth  in  print,  esp  cially  in  the 
several  Appendixes :  Even  the  patient  printer  would  not  let 
it  go  without  published  apology.  No  editor  has  hitherto 
been  found  expert  or  rash  enough  to  reproduce  anything 
like  the  original  arrangement  of  the  "Parts,"  "Appendixes" 
with  their  numerous  pieces,  folding  "  Tables,"  etc.  The 
English  editor,  who  first  undertook  to  bring  something  like 
cosmos  out  of  this  chaos,  created  a  new  book  by  weaving  as 
much  as  \  ~  could  of  the  matter  of  the  Appendixes  into  the 
main  text,  or  into  footnotes  thereto,  thereby  greatly  reduc- 
ing the  bulk  of  the  appendicial  texts.  But  these  contained 
documents  which  proved  refractory  to  such  treatment ;  the 
plan  could  not  be  fully  carried  out,  for  there  was  a  residuum 
which  still  called  for  an  Appendix.  In  fact,  the  real  bulk  of 
Pike's  cargo  is  in  these  Appendixes;  his  Itineraries — the 
only  portions  of  his  book  which  were  printed  in  large  type, 
as  main  text — being  less  important,  if  not  less  interesting, 
than  the  rest  of  the  freight.  In  approaching  my  own  editorial 
labors,  my  intention  was  to  adhere  as  closely  as  possible  to 
the  arrangement  of  the  original.  This  I  flatter  myself  I 
have  succeeded  in  doing,  with  a  few  important  exceptions 
to  which  attention  is  pointedly  directed  in  my  notes.  These 
transpositions,   with    the    introduction    of    chapter-heads, 


li 


!l 


I-,: 


',  .1 


■^.,:t. 


ill 


ii  I 


rp 


XXXVm       MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 

and  co-ordination  of  all  of  the  original  book  in  uniform 
typography,  have  probably  effected  the  required  result. 

In  i8ii  Pike's  work  was  also  published,  from  another 
MS.  copy,  with  many  modifications,  in  a  handsome  quarto 
edition,  as  follows : 

[1811.] — Exploratory  Travels  \  through  the  \  Western  Territories  \  of 
I  North  America:  \  comprising  a  \  Voyage  from  St.  Louis,  on  the 
Mississippi ,  \  to    the  \  Source  of   that  River,  \  and   a  \  Journey 
through  the  Interior  of  Louisiana,  \  and  the  \  North-eastern  Prov- 
inces of  New  Spain.  \  Performed  in  the  years  1805, 1806,   1807, 

by  Order  of  the  Government  of  the    United   States.  | |  By 

Zebulon     Montgomery    Pike,  \  Major    6th   Regt.    United  States 

Infantry.  \ |  London :  \  Printed  for  Longman,  Hurst,  Rees, 

Or  me,  and  Brmvn,  \  Paternoster-Row.  \ |  181 1.  \ 

One  vol.,  4to.  Half-title,  i  leaf,  verso  blank  ;  title,  i  leaf,  verso  blank ; 
advertisement,  dated  Jan.  28th,  181 1,  and  signed  Thomas  Rees,  pp. 
v-ix;  Congressional  matters  taken  from  the  App.  to  Part  III.  of  the 
orig.  ed.,  pp.  xi-xviii ;  contents,  pp.  xix,  xx  ;  main  text,  pp.  1-390; 
Appendix,  pp.  391-436;  colophon,  J.  G.  Barnard,  Printer,  Skinner- 
street,  London.  The  copy  examined  has  only  two  maps — the 
Mississippi,  reduced  to  4to  page  size  ;  Louisiana  and  New  Mexico, 
prepared  by  putting  together  two  of  Pike's  orig.  maps  and  reducing 
the  result  to  \o\  x  13J  inches.    Folding  tables  reset  to  page  size. 

This  is  the  standard  English  edition,  prepared  under  the 
careful  and  able  editorship  of  Dr.  Thomas  Rees,  from  a 
manuscript  copy  transmitted  to  England  at  the  time  that 
the  original  manuscript  went  to  press  in  America.  This 
edition,  and  not  the  American  of  18 10,  is  the  basis  of  the 
French  and  Dutch  versions,  and  is  also  the  one  which  was 
textually  reprinted  as  the  Denver  edition  of  1889.  Dr.  Rees 
made  Pike  a  much  better  book  than  the  author  made  for 
himself.  The  very  great  differences  from  the  American 
original,  due  to  the  English  editor's  literary  skill,  are  modestly 
set  forth  in  the  latter's  Advertisement.  It  appears  from 
this  that  the  MS.  transmitted  to  England  "  was  divided  into 
six  parts,  comprising  the  three  journals  which  follow,  and 
the  observations  pertaining  to  each  in  a  separate  portion." 
As  the  appendicial  matters  were  received  "  in  the  desultory 


M] 

manner  in 
judged  it  f 
nearly  as 
places  thej 
it  unneces! 
same  grour 
skelter  Ap 
tents  into  t 
the  Indians 
on  New  Spj 
Notes  and  ^ 
have  been  p 
have  been  0 
had  already 
respect  to  th 
felt  he  had  a 
the   disposal 
Pike's  languj 
freely.     Dr.  ] 
names  of  pers 
the  present  < 
versions  of  I 
Rees  and  my« 
the  "  ignorant 
reached  him, 
that  in  Amei 
"light  readily 
his  manuscript 
incorrect  a  sta 
The  sheets  of 
after  his  own  h 
ous  errors,  disc 
him  little  to  ,r< 
period."    For 
"  some  cursory 
E."  and  adds  : 
joined  the  pof 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE.       XXXIX 


manner  in  which  they  were  originally  composed,  the  editor 
judged  it  for  the  advantage  of  the  work  to  restore  them,  as 
nearly  as  he  possibly  could,  in  distinct  paragraphs,  to  the 
places  they  had  first  occupied  in  the  journal,  thus  rendering 
it  unnecessary  to  lead  the  reader  a  second  time  over  the 
same  ground."     In  other  words,  Dr.  Rees  picked  the  helter- 
skelter  Appendixes  to  pieces,  and  wove  most  of  their  con- 
tents into  the  main  text,  as  already  said.     The  accounts  of 
the  Indians  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,  and  the  Observations 
on  New  Spain,  he  "  preserved  in  their  original  state.    The 
Notes  and  Appendixes,  with  some  variation  of  arrangement, 
have  been  printed  after  the  manuscripts,  but  a  few  articles 
have  been  omitted,  as  containing  only  repetitions  of  what 
had  already  appeared   in   the    body  of   the   work.     With 
respect  to  the  language  and  style  of  the  Author,  the  Editor 
felt  he  had  a  much  more  delicate  task  to  perform  than  in 
the   disposal  of  the   materials."     He  therefore   preserved 
Pike's  language  in  substance,  but  corrected   his  grammar 
freely.    Dr.  Rees'  avowal  of  the  trouble  he  had  with  proper 
names  of  persons  and  places  will  surprise  no  one  who  reads 
the  present  edition  and  sees  with  what  extraordinary  per- 
versions of  Indian,  French,  and   Spanish  names  both  Dr. 
Rees  and  myself  had  to  contend.     Dr.  Rees  speaks  also  of 
the  "  ignorant  and  careless  transcriber  "  of  the  copy  which 
reached  him,  and  observes  further :  "  It  is  mortifying  to  find 
that  in  America,  where  the  Author  was  accessible,   and 
might  readily  have  elucidated  any  accidental  obscurities  in 
his  manuscript,  the  work  has  been  printed  in  very  nearly  as 
incorrect  a  state  as  it  appeared  in  the  present  editor's  copy. 
The  sheets  of  the  American  Edition  reached  here  some  time 
after  his  own  had  been  in  the  printer's  hands,  but  its  numer- 
ous errors,  discreditable  certainly  to  the  American  press,  left 
him  little  to  regret  that  they  had  not  arrived  at  an  earlier 
period."     For  the  rest.  Dr.  Rees  remarks  that  he  furnished 
"some  cursory  notes,  which  are  distir.sfuished  by  the  letter 
E,"  and  adds  :    "  In  the  account  of  Now  Spain  he  has  sub- 
joined the  population  of  several  places  from  Humboldt's 


xl 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


ME 


ii! 


recent  '  Essai  Politique,'  in  order  to  furnish  the  reader  with 
the  means  of  instant  comparison.  It  is  pleasing  to  observe 
how  nearly  these  statements  agree  in  the  most  material 
instances ;  and  the  circumstance  affords  no  slight  evidence 
of  the  general  accuracy  of  Major  Pike's  information."  He 
is  charitable  enough  to  refrain  from  adding  what  else  this 
circumstance  evidences.  Dr.  Rees'  further  introduction  '-^ 
his  main  text  consists  of  the  Congressional  papers,  whic  a 
the  orig.  ed.  form  a  part  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  3,  and  which 
are  given  this  prominence,  apparently,  to  authenticate  the 
whole  work  in  the  eyes  of  the  English  public  by  these 
officialitit  s.  In  the  copy  of  the  Rees  edition  which  I  have 
handled  I  find  but  two  maps,  reduced  as  above  said. 

This  was  followed  in  18 12  by  a  French  version,  the  title 
and  collation  of  which  are  here  given  : 

[iSi^] —  Voyage  \  au  \  Nouveau-Mexique,  \  a  la  suite  a'une  expedition 
ordonnie  \  par  le  Gouvernetnent  des  £tats-  Unis,  \  pour  reconnoitre 
les  sources  des  rivikres  \  Arkansas,  Kansks,  la  Platte  et  Pierre 
-jaune,  \  dans  I'intirieur  de  la  Louisiane  occidentale.  |  I-ricldl 
I  a'une  Excursion  aux  Sources  du  Mississippi,  \  Pendant  les 
annies  1805, 1806,  et  1807.  \  Par  le  Major  Z.  M.  Pike.  \  Traduit 
de  V anglais  \  Par  M.  Breton,  Auteut  de  la  Biblioth,  giographique. 
I  Orni  d'une  Nouvelle  Carte  de  la  Louisiane,  en  trois  parties.  \ 
Tome  Premier  {Second].  \  A  Paris,  \  Chez  D'Hautel,  Libraire, 
Rue  de  la  Harpe,  n°.  80,  \  prh  le  College  de  Justice.  \  —  |  j8i3.  \ 

Two  vols.,  8vo.  Vol.  I.,  pp.  i-xvi,  1-368;  Vol.  II.,  pp.  1-373,  with  3 
maps.  In  Vol.  I.  the  half  title  p.,  backed  de  rimprim^rie  de  L. 
Hausmann,  Rue  de  la  Harpe,  N".  8c,  is  pp.  i,  ii ;  full  title  p.,  verso 
blank,  is  pp.  iii,  iv ;  Preface  du  Traducteur,  pp.  v-xiv ;  sub-title, 
Voyage  au  Mississippi,  backed  with  errata,  pp.  xv,  xvi ;  Avertisse- 
ment  de  I'auteur,  pp.  1-6  ;  Wilkinson's  instructions  to  Pike  of  July 
30th,  1805,  abstracted  from  one  of  the  pieces  of  App.  to  Pt.  3  of  the 
orig.  ed.,  pp.  7,  8  ;  main  text  of  the  Mississippi  Voyage,  pp.  9-236, 
ending  Pt.  i  of  the  orig.  ed.;  thence  the  Arkansaw  Journey,  with 
separate  sub-title.  Voyage  au  Nouveau-Mexique,  pp.  237-368,  end- 
ing Vol.  I.,  with  end  of  Pt.  2  of  the  orig.  ed.— In  Vol.  II.,  half  title 
p.  backed  blank,  pp.  1,2:  full  title,  backed  blank,  pp.  3,  4 ;  main 
text,  pp.  5-373,  beginning  at  date  of  Feb.  27th,  1807,  when  Pike  was 
starting  on  his    involuntary  Mexican  tour;  this  tour  ending  on 


p.  236,  w 

end  of  V 

including 

and  a  pi( 

Addition* 

Nouvelle- 

extraits  e 

botham, 

of  paddin 

wanted  to 

edition  an 

are  the  A 

Antoine  N 

of  English 

the  executi 

for  not  rej: 

not  ventun 

steal  Huml 

Pike  had  dc 

in  a  rdclam 

forma,  and 

publiees  soi 

grande  cart 

trac6     sa 

[Nacogdoch 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


xli 


p.  236,  with  end  of  the  main  text  of  Pt.  3  of  the  orig.  ed. ;  thence  to 
end  of  vol.  various  matters  from  the  Appendixes  of  Pts.  2  and  3, 
including  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  Arkansaw  Report,  pp.  325-363, 
and  a  piece  of  padding,  pp.  293-324,  this  last  being  Remarques 
Additionelles  sur  le  sol,  les  productions  et  les  habitans  de  la 
Nouvelle-Espagne,  of  which  the  editor  says  that  "  ces  details  sont 
extraits  en  partie  de  I'excellente  histoire  d'Am^rique  par  Winter- 
botham,  et  de  I'ouvrage  de  I'abb^  Clavig^ro."  These  32  pages 
of  padding  have  no  business  in  the  book ;  I  suppose  they  were 
wanted  to  balance  the  bulk  of  the  two  volumes.  The  maps  of  this 
edition  are  three  in  number,  supposed  to  belong  in  Vol.  II.  They 
are  the  Mississippi  and  the  two  Arkansaw  maps,  prepared  by 
Antoine  Nau,  redrawn  and  re-engraved,  with  French  names  instead 
of  English  ones ;  the  size  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  the  original ; 
the  execution  is  rather  better.  The  editor  apologizes,  Vol  I„  p.  xiii, 
for  not  reproducing  Pike's  two  maps  of  Mexico,  because  he  would 
not  venture  "  d'attenter  k  la  propriety  de  M.  de  Humboldt,"  t.  e., 
steal  Humboldt's  thunder.  For  it  seems  that  Humboldt  thought 
Pike  had  done  so,  and  he  had  just  previously  so  expressed  himself 
in  a  reclamation  in  Le  Moniteur.  Humboldt  compliments  Pike  pro 
formi,  and  proceeds  to  protest :  "  Mais  les  cartes  du  Mexique, 
publi^es  sous  son  [Pike's]  nom,  ne  sont  que  des  reductions  de  ma 
grande  carte  de  la  Nouvelle-Espagne,  sur  laquelle  le  voyageur  a 
trace  sa  route  de  Santa-F^  par  Cohahuila  k  Nacodolhes 
[Nacogdoches  or  Natchitoches]." 

Humboldt's  direct  and  unqualified  charge  of  plagiarism 
against  Pike,  which  has  never  been  answered  and  is  proba- 
bly unanswerable,  is  reiterated  in  that  one  of  his  works 
entitled :  Personal  Narrative  of  Travels  to  the  Equinoctial 
Regions  of  the  New  Continent  during  the  Years  1 799-1 804. 
By  Alexander  de  Humboldt  and  Aim6  Bonpland.  Written 
in  French  by  Alexander  de  Humboldt,  and  translated  into 
English  by  Helen  Maria  Williams,  Philadelphia,  M.  Carey, 
I  vol.,  8va,  Dec.  23d,  181 5,  on  p.  xxii  of  which  we  read: 
"Mr.  Pike  displayed  admirable  courage  in  an  important 
undertaking  for  the  investigation  of  western  Louisiana  ;  but 
unprovided  with  instruments,  and  strictly  watched  on  the 
road  from  Santa  Fe  to  Natchitoches,  he  could  do  nothing 
towards  the  progress  of  the  geography  of  the  provincias 
internas.    The  maps  of  Mexico,  which  are  annexed  to  the 


ii , 


l! 


xlii 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


narrative  of  his  journey,  are  reduced  from  my  great  map  of 
New  Spain,  of  which  I  left  a  copy,  in  1804,  at  the  secretary 
of  state's  office  at  Washington."  In  this  connection  Hum- 
boldt also  makes  the  same  well-founded  charge  against 
Arrowsmith,  saying,  p.  xxi :  "  My  general  map  of  the  king- 
dom of  New  Spain,  formed  on  astronomical  observations, 
and  on  the  whole  of  the  materials  which  existed  in  Mexico 
in  1804,  has  been  copied  by  Mr.  Arrowsmith,  who  has  appro- 
priated it  to  himself,  by  publishing  it  on  a  larger  scale  under 
the  title  of  New  Map  of  Mexico,  compiled  from  original 
Documents,  by  Arrowsmith.  It  is  very  easy  to  recognize 
this  map  from  the  number  of  chalcographical  errors  with 
which  it  abounds,"  etc. 

Of  all  forms  of  dishonesty,  literary  larceny  is  the  most 
futile,  because  the  surest  of  detection.  Plagiarism  is  worse 
than  a  crime — it  is  a  blunder.  If  the  matter  stolen  is  worth 
stealing,  the  transaction  is  certain  to  be  exposed,  sooner  or 
later.  The  distinction  between  the  use  and  misuse  of  the 
literary  labors  of  another  is  so  plain  and  simple  that  it 
cannot  be  misunderstood.  It  depends  solely  upon  whether 
acknowledgment  be  made  or  not.  Plagiarism  acknowledged 
is  no  plagiarism — one  has  only  to  say  "  by  your  leave,"  to 
appropriate  with  impunity  whatever  he  desires.  But  this 
instant  formula  is  indispensable.  Subsequent  apology  or 
explanation  is  impossible.  Humboldt  took  Pike  red- 
handed  ;  this  the  present  biographer  deplores ;  but  he  can 
neither  discover  nor  invent  a  defense.  Pike's  senselessness 
in  this  matter  aggravates  the  offense.  To  have  acknowl- 
edged his  indebtedness  to  Humboldt  and  Bonpland,  and 
then  utilized  their  work  to  any  extent  he  chose,  would  have 
been  shrewd  policy,  as  wi;Il  as  honest  conduct  ^  for  Hum- 
boldt's was  already  a  name  to  conjure  with,  and  the  hith- 
erto nameless  young  writer  could  not  have  done  better  for 
himself  than  to  cite  such  high  authority  in  connection  with 
his  own  work."      I  have   reluctantly  satisfied  myself  that 

"  TH-^nias  W.  Field,   Essay  towards  an  Indian  Bibl.,   etc.,  1873,  p.  313. 
thro^  .  'he  mantle  of  charity  in  the  following  terms  :  "  Captain  Pike  could  be 


Pike's  ma 

Gen^rale 

errors  anc 

The  Di 

I  Lo»/i 
der  I  M 
Vereeni^ 
Majoor 
[Tweede 
filer.  \  Jk 

Two  vols.,  gv 

pp.  i-viii 

with   thri 

In  Vol.  ] 

Vertaler  ( 

7th.   1812 

runs  to  p. 

journey,  tl 

Vol.  II.  a 

the  main  t 

maps  belo 


I  ii!  iiil:; 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


xlui 


Pike's  map  of  New  Spain  is  no  other  than  Humboldt's  Carte 
Gen^rale  du  Royaume  de  la  Nouvelle  Espagne,  with  Nau's 
errors  and  some  little  further  modification. 
The  Dutch  edition  of  Pike,  i8 12-13,  is  as  follows : 

[1S/2-/J.] — Het'ze  I  uaar  |  Nieuw-Mexico  \  en  de  Binnenlanden  van 
I  Louisiana,  \  Voorgegaan  door  eenen  togt  \  naar  de  Bronnen 
der  I  Mississippi,  \  gedaan  op  last  van  het  Gouver-  \  nement  der 
Vereenigde  Staten  \  in  de  jaren  i8oj,  t8o6  en  1807,  |  door  den 
Majoor  \  Z.  'f.  Pike.  \  —  |  Uit  het  Engelsch  vertaald.  \  —  |  Eerste 
[Tweede]  Deel.  \  met  Kaarten.  \  —  \  Te  Amsterdam,  bij  \  C.  Tim- 
mer.  \  MCDCCCXII  [AfDCCCXIII].  \  Stilsteeg,  No.  18.  | 

Two  vols.,  8vo.  Vol.  I.,  1812  (notice  misprint  of  date  on  title  page), 
pp.  i-viii,  1-327.  Vol.  II.,  1813,  two  prel.  leaves,  and  pp.  1-374, 
with  three  maps.  Printed  at  Amsterdam  by  A.  Breeman  &  Co. 
In  Vol.  I.,  title  leaf,  verso  blank,  pp.  i,  ii;  Voorberigt  van  den 
Vertaler  (Translator's  Preface),  pp.  iii-viii,  dated  Amsterdam,  Nov. 
7th,  1812  ;  main  text,  pp.  1-327,  of  which  the  Mississippi  voyage 
runs  to  p.  218  inclusive,  and  the  remainder  finishes  the  Arkansaw 
journey,  these  being  respectively  Pt.  i  and  Pt.  2  of  the  orig.  ed.  In 
Vol.  II.  a  half  title  and  a  full  title  make  each  one  unpaged  leaf,  and 
the  main  text  runs  pp.  1-374,  being  Pt.  3  of  the  orig.  ed.  The  three 
maps  belong  in  this  vol. 

The  general  form  and  style  of  this  version  are  most  like 
those  of  the  French  translation,  from  which,  however,  the 
Dutch  differs  in  various  particulars.  It  appears  to  have 
been  based  upon  the  Erglish  quarto  rather  than  upon  the 
original  Philadelphia  octavo,  and  to  have  been  translated 
independently  therefrom,  as  the  French  also  was.  Both 
the  Dutch  and  the  French  editions  follow  the  English  one 
in  working  the  matter  of  the  Appendixes  into  the  main 
text — in  fact,  no  edition  that  I  know  of  has  hitherto  fol- 
lowed the  awkward  and  exasperating  form  of  Pike's  own 

charged  with  no  association  in  this  misdemeanor,  as  the  work  was  edited  and 
published  in  his  absence  on  duty."  This  is  true  only  in  so  far  as  the  forerunner 
of  the  Mississippi  voyage  is  concerned  (see  above,  p.  xxxiii,)  and  conveys  an 
erroneous  impression  regarding  Pike's  princeps  edition,  in  which  the  plagiarism 
occurs.  For  Pike  wrote  this  book  himself,  and  necessarily  knew  everything 
there  was  in  it.  See  beyond,  p.  Ixi,  where  the  circumstances  under  which  it  was 
prepared  are  adduced  from  hitherto  unpublished  documents. 


-1'  , 


\   I 


'■,  M 


11 


xliv 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


li'l 
I'    ''i 


III 


book.  The  anonymous  Dutch  translator  introduces  a  new 
preface,  and  a  few  short  footnotes,  not  reproducing  those 
of  the  French  translator;  the  three  maps  are  re-engraved 
from  those  prepared  by  Antoine  Nau,  as  in  the  French 
edition,  but  with  lettering  of  the  names  in  Dutch  instead  of 
French. 

The  foregoing  English,  French,  and  Dutch  editions  were 
speedily  followed  by  a  German  version.  This  seems  to  be 
a  scarce  book ;  I  have  not  yet  been  able  to  find  a  copy. 
I  presume  that,  like  the  French  and  Dutch,  it  was  modeled 
upon  the  London  quarto  ;  but  with  what  modifications,  if 
any,  aside  from  translation  into  another  language,  I  have 
no  idea. 

The  latest  and  best  edition  of  Pike  which  has  hitherto 
appeared  in  the  United  States,  was  published  in  1889,  as 
follows : 

l./(f(Pp.]  Exploratory  Travels  \  thrt-.^h  the  \  Western  Territories  \  of 
I  North  America :  \  comprising  a  \  Voyage  from  St.  Louis,  on  the 
Mississippi,  \  to  the  |  Source  of  that  river,  \  and  a  \  Journey 
through  the  Interior  of  Louisiana,  \  and  the  \  North-eastern  Prov- 
inces of  New  Spain.  |  Performed  in  the  years  1803,  1806,  i8(f], 
by  Order  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States.  \  —  |  By  Zeb- 
tilon  Montgomery  Pike,  \  Major  6th  Regt.  United  States  In- 
fantry. I  —  I  London :  \  Paternoster-Row.  \  —  |  i8ti.  \  —  |  Den- 
ver :  I  ]V.  H.  Lawrence  <Sr*  Co.  \  1889.  \ 

One  vol.,  large  4to.  Engr.  portrait,  frontispiece,  answering  to  pp.  i,  ii ; 
title,  verso  copyright,  pp.  iii,  iv;  introduction  (new,  by  Wm.  M. 
Maguire,  Denver,  1889),  pp.  v-xii;  missing,  pp.  xiii,  xiv;  Report 
of  Committee,  etc.  (1808),  pp.  xv-xxii  (abstracted  from  Doc.  No.  6 
and  accompanying  papers  of  Appendix  III.  of  the  original);  con- 
tents, pp.  xxiii,  xxiv,  or  pp.  23,  24;  main  text,  pp.  25-351  ;  blank, 
p.  352  ;  Appendix,  pp.  353-394 ;  Mississippi  map,  reduced,  opp.  p. 
''4;  1st  Louisiana  map,  reduced,  opp.  p.  146;  2d  do.,  do.,  opp.  p. 
208;  maps  of  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  and  of  Mexico  not  found; 
folding  tables  reset  to  page  size. 

As  appears  from  the  foregoing  title  and  collation,  this 
is  a  faithful  and  complete  reprint  of  the  English  quarto. 
The  title  page  is  facsimiled  with  the  camera,  down  to  the 


publfsh< 

such  slfg 

incident 

from  the 

replaced 

M.  Magi 

my  only 

editor  as 

route,  anc 

that  extej 

my  own  < 

wits  in  so 

my    value 

appear  in 

notes. 

It  is  nee 
and  of  his 
biographic 
from   Whit 
some  specii 
The  Paci 
a  notice  of 
rapher,  Ger 
are  traced  ( 
over  the  Co 
of  the  Wesi 
Lieutenant 
explorer  thj 
Arkansaw], 
tlie  waters  o 
cla.:se  of  thi 
was  misled. 

"  Mungo-J 
Ethiopian  es 
sliire,  Scotia 
^ame  as  Mun 
gomery  Pike 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


xlv 


publishers'  names;  the  text  is  identical  throughout,  barring 
such  slight  literal  or  punctual  differences  as  are  necessarily 
incident  to  resetting  type.  The  only  noticeable  change 
from  the  London  edition  is  that  Dr.  Rees*  advertisement  is 
replaced  by  a  new  introduction,  from  the  pen  of  William 
M.  Maguire,  Esq.,  of  Denver.  This  is  a  valuable  feature  ; 
my  only  regret  is  that  so  competent  and  conscientious  an 
editor  as  Mr.  Maguire — one  familiar  with  much  of  Pike's 
route,  and  enthusiastic  on  the  subject — did  not  give  the  work 
that  extended  critical  revision  which  would  have  forestalled 
my  own  commentary  and  left  me  to  exercise  my  editorial 
wits  in  some  other  direction.  As  it  is,  I  am  indebted  to 
my  valued  correspondent  in  several  particulars  which 
appear  in  their  proper  connections  in  the  course  of  my 
notes. 

It  is  needless  to  cite  here  the  multiplied  notices  of  Pike 
and  of  his  travels  or  his  book  which  appear  in  ordinary 
biographical  and  encyclopedic  publications.  But,  aside 
from  Whiting's  Memoir,  already  adduced,  I  may  notice 
some  special  articles  of  more  or  less  recent  date. 

The  Pacific  Railroad  Reports,  XI.  1855,  pp.  19-22,  contain 
a  notice  of  Pike's  Expeditions,  by  the  late  eminent  geog- 
rapher, General  Gouverneur  Kemble  Warren.  The  routes 
are  traced  correctly,  except  in  the  instance  of  sending  Pike 
over  the  Continental  Divide  to  headwaters  of  the  Colorado 
of  the  West ;  for  General  Warren  says :  "It  appears  that 
Lieutenant  Pike  has  the  honor  of  being  the  first  American 
explorer  that  reached  the  sources  of  this  large  river  [the 
Arkansaw],  and  the  second  that  crossed  the  divide  between 
the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans."  The  first 
cla>.:se  of  this  statement  is  cotrect ;  in  the  second,  the  writer 
was  misled. 

"  Mungo-Meri-Paike"  is  not  the  name  of  the  celebrated 
Ethiopian  explorer  who  was  born  at  Fowlshiels,  in  Selkirk- 
shire,  Scotland,  Sept.  20th,  1771,  and  became  known  to 
fame  as  Mungo  Park,  but  a  phonetization  of  the  way  "  Mont- 
gomery Pike  "  reverberated  in  Spanish  ears.     Colonel  James 


1  A 


-n 


i^ 


1>' 


jy 


xlvi 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


m 


III 


I 


F.  Meline's  Two  Thousand  Miles  on  Horseback,  etc.,  New 
York,  Hurd  and  Houghton,  1867,  exploits  Pike  in  an  inter- 
esting manner,  especially  in  Letter  xxix,  pp.  234-245. 
Meline's  contribution  to  the  present  biography  is  particularly 
valuable,  as  it  gives  some  documentary  evidence  of  the 
Spanish  view  of  Pike's  invasion  of  New  Mexico.  Most  of 
this  we  have  in  Pike's  book ;  but  one  of  the  papers  which 
Colonel  Meline  presents,  both  in  the  original  Spanish  and  in 
an  English  version,  must  find  a  place  here ;  I  give  it  in 
English,   from   Meline's    pp.    243-245."      It  is  Governor 

"  "  REPORT  OF  A  LATE  OCCURRENCE  IN  THIS  PROVINCE  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 

"  On  the  15th  of  February  last  two  Indians  of  the  Ute  tribe  arrived  and 
brought  into  my  presence  an  Anglo-American,  a  young  man  of  genteel  appear- 
ance (j'oben  de  presencia  fina,  as  Dr.  Robinson  appeared  ^to  be],  whose  state- 
ment I  heard,  and  even  invited  him  to  dine  with  me,  in  order  to  satisfy  myself 
he  was  what  I  supposed  him  to  be  as  to  intelligence  and  good  breeding. 

"  I  did  not  believe  him,  and  suspecting  the  truth  of  his  statement  as  to  the 
nature  of  his  escort,  I  sent  out  a  small  regular  detachment  and  some  provincial 
troops  to  reconnoitre,  who  not  only  fell  in  with  a  first  lieutenant  with  six 
soldiers  in  an  excellent  fort  built  on  the  Conejos  not  far  from  its  junction  with 
the  Del  Norte,  two  days'  journey  from  the  capital  of  this  province,  towards  the 
same  direction  [acia  el  mismo  rumbo],  but  overcoming  the  obstacles  of  deep 
snows,  succeeded  in  finding  the  sergeant  [Meek]  and  corporal  [meaning  Private 
Miller]  belonging  to  the  detachment,  making  a  total  of  thirteen  soldiers,  two  uf 
them  [Dougherty  and  Sparks]  with  frozen  feet,  and  having  lost  nearly  all  their 
fingers.     [Compare  p.  510,  beyond.] 

"  On  the  2d  of  March  last,  the  above-mentioned  lieutenant,  whose  name  is 
Mungo-Meri-Paike,  came  in  with  six  men  of  his  detachment,  and  on  the  i8th 
the  remainder  of  his  men.  Without  any  resistance  they  acquiesced  in  the  notifi- 
cation  made  them,  that  being  in  my  territory  it  was  absolutely  necessary  that 
they  should  appear  before  me. 

"  They  did  so,  with  their  arms,  and  I  assured  them  that  in  no  respect  should 
they  be  treated  as  prisoners,  saving  only  that,  in  accordance  with  the  orders  of 
the  general  commanding,  it  was  necessary  that  they  should  appear  before  him 
and  fully  explain  the  objects  of  their  mission. 

"  Paike  showed  me  his  instructions  from  General  Wilkinson,  his  journal,  and 
a  rough  sketch  of  a  chart  of  all  the  rivers  and  countries  he  had  explored. 

"  Placing  all  which  papers  in  a  trunk,  of  which  I  requested  him  to  retain  the 
key,  I  delivered  the  same  to  the  officer  [Capitan  Antonio  D'AImansa  :  see  p.  61 1] 
commanding  his  escort — not  to  be  opened  save  in  presence  of  the  aforesaid 
general  commanding. 

' '  From  all  which  circumstances,  from  what  I  gathered  from  Robinson  and 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


xlvit 


Allencaster's  report  to  General  Salcedo,  of  date  Santa  F6, 
N.  M.,  Apr.  1st,  1807:  compare  Pike  at  p.  607  and  follow- 
ing pages  ;  also,  p.  809. 

The  Topeka  Commonwealth,  a  Kansan  newspaper,  during 
the  summer  and  autumn  of  1877  published  a  series  of  articles 
by  Noble  L.  Prentis.  These  were  afterward  gathered  in  a 
volume  entitled  :  A  Kansan  Abroad,  what  purports  to  be 
the  second  edition  of  which  appeared  in  1878,  Topeka,  Geo. 
W.  Martin,  sm.  8vo,  pp.  240.  One  of  the  articles  in  this  book, 
pp.  191-214,  is  thus  described  by  its  author,  who  seems  to 
have  been  something  of  a  wag:  "  The  sketch.  Pike  of  Pike's 
Peak,  was  first  delivered  at  Topeka,  February  19th,  1877, 
under  the  patronage  of  the  Kansas  State  Historical  Society. 
Afterward,  in  the  cheerful  month  of  March,  the  author  went 
around  the  country  with  his  production  in  the  form  of  a 

from  the  above  named  officer,  I  conclude  distinctly  that  the  expedition  of  July 
[last — 1806]  was  specially  designed  to  conciliate  two  Indian  tribes  in  behalf  of 
the  U.  S.  Government,  to  make  them  liberal  presents,  and  drawing  them  into 
friendship,  treaty,  and  commerce,  to  place  them  under  the  Anglo-American  pro- 
tection — all  this  referring  especially  to  the  Comanche  tribe,  the  most  powerful 
of  our  allies. 

"  Furthermore,  that  the  Anglo-American  government  considers  as  included 
within  the  boundaries  of  Louisiana  all  the  rivers  that  empty  into  the  Mississippi, 
and  all  the  territories  that  extend  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Rio  Colorado  [mean- 
ing that  Red  r.  which  is  the  branch  of  the  Arkansaw  now  called  the  Canadian  r. 
as  Meline  explains  in  a  footnote],  which  rises  a  few  leagues  from  the  pueblo 
of  Taos  further  to  the  north  in  this  province  ;  that  it  is  their  intention  this  year 
or  the  next  to  establish  forts  or  settlements  on  all  those  rivers,  in  order  to  monop- 
olize all  the  trade  and  commerce  carried  on  by  a  large  number  of  tribes  in  the 
province. 

"  The  detachment  of  Anglo-American  troops  referred  to,  went  to  Chihuahua 
to  appear  before  the  commanding  general,  guarded  by  an  escort,  being  allowed 
to  carry  their  arms  and  ammunition  on  account  of  the  danger  of  hostile  Apaches 
on  the  route. 

"  All  of  which  is  submitted  to  the  general  commanding,  reminding  him  of  the 
representation  made  in  my  communication  of  the  4th  of  January  last  year,  con- 
cerning the  necessity  of  placing  this  province  on  a  respectable  footing,  and  of 
having  frontier  posts  and  positions  thrown  out  to  oppose  the  ambitious  views  of 
the  aforesaid  Anglo-American  government,  exposing  also  the  wretchedly  defense- 
less condition  actually  existing,  and  so  found  for  years  past  by  whomsoever  has 
been  in  command. 

"Santa  Ft,  April  is t,  /S07." 


M 


i»  t 


I   ■:( 


■wp 


Ij  II I 


xlviii       MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

'  lecture.'  It  was  not  as  funny  as  was  expected,  and,  as  a 
lecture,  was  not  an  overwhelming  success.  It  now  appears 
for  the  first  time  in  print ;  and  may  it  find  more  readers 
than  it  ever  did  hearers."  In  this  wish  I  concur  with 
pleasure ;  for  Mr.  Prentis  evidently  hi  i  read  his  Pike  with 
interested  attention,  and  his  essay  is  one  of  the  best  short 
biographies  of  our  hero  that  I  have  seen.  I  have  occasion 
to  cite  it  twice  in  the  present  memoir. 

In  his  Explorers  and  Travellers,  forming  a  volume  of  the 
Men  of  Achievement  series.  New  York,  Charles  Scribner's 
Sons,  1893,  Art.  VI.,  pp.  163-193,  General  A.  W.  Greely, 
Chief  Signal  Officer,  U.  S.  A.,  who  himself  illuminates 
achievement  in  exploration,  has  given  an  appreciative 
sketch  of  Pike's  career,  in  the  main  correct,  though  inac- 
curate in  certain  particulars.  If  I  here  specify  two  of 
these,  it  is  in  no  spirit  of  detraction,  but  with  the  good 
feeling  that  General  Greely  reciprocated  when  I  called  his 
attention  to  them.  It  is  said,  p.  173,  that  "Pike  visited 
Red  Lake  and  passed  to  the  north,  which  carried  him  to 
the  drainage-basin  of  the  Red  River"  ;  but  Pike  was  never 
out  of  the  Mississippian  watershed  on  that  voyage,  his 
furthest  point  being  Cass  lake.  This  was  formerly  known 
as  Red  Cedar  lake,  whence  perhaps  General  Greely 's  misap- 
prehension. Again,  it  is  said,  p.  183,  that  Pike  "doubtless 
crossed  into  Middle  Park  [in  Colorado]  and  saw  the  head- 
waters of  the  Colorado";  but  Pike  went  directly  from 
South  Park  back  into  the  valley  of  the  Arkansaw,  and 
never  viewed  a  Pacific  watershed.  The  general's  summary, 
p.  175,  of  Pike's  results  on  the  Mississippi  is  judicious— 
a  conservative  estimate,  colored  with  a  generosity  which 
none  would  wish  to  have  been  withheld  : 

Pike  had  more  than  carried  out  his  orders  to  explore  the  sources  of 
the  great  river,  and  did  something  more  than  give  to  the  world  the  first 
definite  and  detailed  information  as  to  the  upper  river  and  its  tributaries. 
He  discovered  the  extent  and  importance  of  the  British  trade  in  that 
country,  brought  the  foreign  traders  under  the  license  and  customs  regu- 
lations of  the  United  States,  and  broke  up  for  all  time  their  political 


1 

influence  0 
of  liquor  1 
Indians  wii 
a  temporal 
the  ensign' 
great  territ( 

Hon.  i^ 
before  th 
orado  Spi 
the  title : 
Zebiilon  ] 
oration,  b( 
true  that 
by  four  ye 
Governor 
Louisiana 
the  Pacific 
Pike  was  c 
and  on  th< 
and  Clark' 
had  been  i 
ernor  Adai 
does  not  a 
Missouri  M 
the  Mississ 
Jefferson  ri 
ceded  in  e^ 
those   of   tl 
himself  bee 
duly  infonni 
French  trac 
century  befc 
The  Anm 
'894,  pp.  S3 
rations.     Th 
esteemed  fri* 
and  curator 


m 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


xHx 


influence  over  the  Indians.  He  did  much  to  restrain  the  unlawful  sale 
of  liquor  to  Indians  by  domestic  traders,  and  not  only  inspired  the 
Indians  with  respect  for  Americans,  but  also  induced  them  to  at  least 
a  temporary  peace  between  themselves.  He  replaced  a  foreign  flag  by 
the  ensign'of  his  own  country,  and  for  the  first  time  brought  into  this 
great  territory  the  semblance  of  national  authority  and  government. 

Hon.  Alva  Adams  of  Pueblo,  Col.,  delivered  an  address 
before  the  students  and  faculty  of  Colorado  College,  Col- 
orado Springs,  July  I2th,  1894,  which  was  published  under 
the  title :  The  Louisiana  Purchase  and  its  first  Explorer, 
Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike,  8vo,  pp.  23.  This  is  a  spirited 
oration,  befitting  the  occasion  and  inspiring  to  read.  It  is 
true  that  Pike's  book  appeared  in  18 10,  thus  anticipating 
by  four  years  the  publication  of  Lewis  and  Clark  ;  but  can 
Governor  Adams  have  forgotten  who  first  explored  the 
Louisiana  Purchase,  and  returned  from  their  expedition  to 
the  Pacific  at  noon  of  Sept.  23d,  1806?  At  that  date 
Pike  was  at  the  Pawnee  village  on  the  Republican  river ; 
and  on  the  4th  of  October  he  had  the  news  of  Lewis 
and  Clark's  return  to  St.  Louis.  His  western  expedition 
had  been  in  progress  only  since  July  15th,  1806.  If  Gov- 
ernor Adams  had  Pike's  Mississippi  voyage  in  mind,  that 
does  not  alter  the  case.  Lewis  and  Clark  started  up  the 
Missouri  May  24th,  1804;  and  when  Pike  began  to  navigate 
the  Mississippi,  Aug.  9th,  1805,  Lewis  and  Clark  were  on 
Jefferson  river,  in  Montana.  Furthermore,  Pike  was  pre- 
ceded in  exploring  Louisiana,  from  Missourian  waters  to 
those  of  the  Rio  Grande,  by  James  Pursley,  who  had 
himself  been  preceded  by  Jean  Baptiste  Lalande,  as  we  are 
duly  informed  by  Pike  hiitiself;  and  it  is  probable  that 
French  traders  reached  Santa  F6  by  the  same  way  half  a 
century  before  Pike. 

The  Annals  of  Iowa,  3d  series.  Vol.  I.  No.  7,  Oct., 
1894,  pp.  531-36,  contains  an  article  entitled  :  Pike's  Explo- 
rations. This  is  anonymous,  but  was  written  by  my  much 
esteemed  friend,  Hon.  Charles  Aldrich,  editor  of  the  Annals 
and  curator  of  the   Iowa  State    Historical  Department  at 


t  -I 

1  : 


m 


1 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


Des  Moines.    The  article  is  clear  and  concise  ;  and  it  traces 
Pike's  several  journeys  with  absolute  accuracy. 


We  return  from  this  bibliographical  excursus  to  resume 
the  thread  of  Pike's  biography — would  that  there  had  been 
many  more  years  to  chronicle  in  the  gallant  and  patriotic, 
but  all  too  brief,  life  of  the  young  soldier  !  No  longer  lieu- 
tenant, but  captain,  since  Aug.  I2th,  1806,  Pike  was  delivered 
out  of  the  hands  of  "our  friends  the  enemy"  on  the  Sabine 
river,  to  which  he  had  been  escorted  by  his  Spanish  captors, 
June  29th,  1807;  and  arrived  at  Natchitoches  about  4  p.  m., 
July  1st.  The  following  letter  was  received  at  the  War  De- 
partment Sept.  29th,  1807;  it  is  not  included  in  the  Appen- 
dix to  Pt.  3  of  the  book,  and  has  probably  never  been 
published.  I  print  verbatim  from  a  copy  of  the  original 
now  on  file  in  the  office  of  the  secretary  of  war : 

Natchitoches  15  July.  1807. 
Sir 

I  arrived  here  a  few  days  since  witii  part  of  my  command  only,  the 
ballance  being  yet  in  New  Spain,  but  expect  them  daily;  as  the  Capt. 
General  assured  me  they  should  follow  me  in  a  short  period  ;  he  detain- 
ing them  I  presume,  to  put  them  through  an  examinatton,  when  he 
conceived  they  would  be  more  easily  intimidated  into  some  equivocnl 
expressions;  which  might  palliate  the  unjustifyable  conduct  of  the 
Spanish  Government  with  respect  to  the  expidition  which  I  had  the  honor 
to  command. 

Whatever  may  be  the  sentiments  of  the  Executive  of  the  United  States 
as  to  the  conduct  of  the  Spaniards  to  myself  and  command,  I  am  bound 
to  submit.  Yet  I  am  conscious  that  our  Honor  and  Dignity,  as  a  nation 
will  not  permit  us  to  tranquilly  view,  the  violation  of  our  Territories; 
infringements  of  Treaties ;  Hostile  communications  to  our  s   , ,.  d 

oppression  of  our  Citizens ;  in  various  Instances:  a"  of  w'  ch  I  can  in.i  ^e 
manifest. 

The  unreasionable  Ideas  of  the  Vice  Roy.  Excelly  the  r     t. 

Genl.  (the  immediate  representatives,  of  his  olic   Majesty  on  our 

Spanish  Frontiers)  as  it  respects  the  line  of  DeriM,  tion.  ^  such  that  in 
my  humble  oppinion  almost  precludes  the  possibility  of  '  thought  that 
they  can  ever  be  amicably  adjusted. 

On  that  subject  I  flatter  myself  I  have  acquired  some  important  and 
interesting  information. 


m 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


li 


Although  the  Capt.  Genl.  seized  on  (what  he  conceived  all)  my  papers, 
I  yet  possess  by  a  little  strategem,  the  whole  of  my  Journals;  courses; 
and  distances ;  and  many  other  Geographical ;  Historical ;  and  Philo- 
sophical notes;  which  I  presume  will  be  worthy  of  particular  notice. 

I  conceive  by  a  fortuitous  event,  that  information  has  been  acquired 
of  the  Spanish  Kingdom  of  New  Spain,  which  a  foreigner  never  yet 
possessed ;  and  which  in  case  of  a  rupture  between  the  United  States, 
and  that  Govt,  will  be  of  the  highest  importance :  but  should  peace  still 
continue  to  bless  those  happy  climes,  will  afford  pleaseing  subjects  of 
contemplation,  for  the  statesmen,  the  philosopher;  and  the  Soldier. 

I  received  from  Genl.  Wilkinson,  some  Conditional  Orders  on  my 
Arrival  at  the  place  [this  place — Natchitoches] ;  to  which  I  have 
replied  ;  but  as  the  destination  of  that  Gentleman,  was  uncertain,  I 
thought  it  my  duty  to  make  a  short  report  to  you:  I  shall  remain 
here  waiting  for  my  men  a  short  time  longer  (as  I  expect  some  important 
information  by  their  hands)  when  I  shall  march  by  the  way  of  Kentucky, 
for  the  City  of  Washington.  My  papers  being  in  such  a  mutilated  and 
deranged  state  it  will  require  some  tim(  to  arrange  them  &  (to  which 
object  every  moment  shall  be  devoted)  likewise  at  Washington :  I  can 
obtain  some  necessary  assistance  as  it  would  take  one  person  a  great 
length  of  time  to  make  fair  copies,  and  draughts  of  the  plans.  Journals 
&c  &c  of  a  tour  of  upwards  of  4000  Miles — 

The  Surveys  of  Capns  Lewis  &  Clark  ;  mine  of  the  Mississippi ;  Osage; 
upper  Arkensaw ;  L'Platte  ;  and  Kans  rivers ;  with  Lieut  Wilkinson's,  & 
Mr.  Freemans,  of  the  lower  parts,  of  the  Red,  and  Arkensaw  rivers ; 
together  with  the  notes  I  intend  takeing  on  my  route  from  hence  up  the 
Mississippi ;  will  I  presume  form  a  mass  of  matter ;  which  will  leave  but 
i/iree,  more  objects,  to  be  desired  in  forming  a  compleate  chart  of 
Louisiana. 

I  am  Sir  with  High  Consideration 

Your  obi.  Sert. 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike,  Capt. 

The  Honl. 

Henry  Dearborne 
Sect.  W.  Dept. 


While  at  Natchitoches,  Captain  Pike  made  it  one  of  his 
first  concerns  to  move  in  the  matter  of  Captain  Nolan's 
men,  then  prisoners  in  Mexico :  see  beyond,  pp.  609,  657, 
660,  666,  767,  811.    The  case  is  little  known,  and  has  not 

roved  an  easy  one  to  recover.  But  through  the  kind 
attentions  of  the  eminent  historian,  Reuben  T,   Durrett, 


177" 


ill 


I  liii 


i»  II  {||i:|. 


lii 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


LL.  D.,  president  of  the  Filson  Club  of  Louisville,  Ky., 
I  am  put  in  possession  of  an  article  which  appeared  in  the 
Natchez  Herald  of  Aug.  i8th,  1807,  setting  forth  the  facts 
in  full.  This  I  have  the  pleasure  of  presenting,  literally 
according  to  the  type-written  copy  which  Dr.  Durrett  trans- 
mits, Apr.  1 2th,  1895: 

Nachitoches,  July  22, 1807. 

Dear  Sir — Inclosed  you  have  a  statement  of  the  situation  of  the 
companions  of  the  deceased  Philip  Nolan,  and  a  short  account  of  the 
ineffectual  application  I  made,  to  rescue  them  from  the  eternal  slavery, 
which  it  is  to  be  feared,  is  destined  for  them,  unless  our  government 
should  be  pleased  to  interfere  in  their  behalf.  Certainly  the  court 
of  Spain  would  be  too  generous  to  refuse  liberty  to  a  few  debilitated 
and  half-lost  wretches,  who  have  at  least  expiated  their  crime,  (if  any) 
tenfold. 

As  I  promised  on  my  arrival  in  the  United  States,  to  give  their  friends 
an  account  of  their  situation,  I  cculd  conceive  no  more  certain  and 
expeditious  a  method  than  through  the  medium  of  your  Herald,  and 
therefo'-e  wish  you  to  give  this  communication  publicity  ;  and  hope  the 
Editors  of  the  Gazettes  of  the  states  in  which  the  friends  of  those 
unfortunate  young  men  may  belong,  will  republish  it,  that  their  con- 
nections may  receive  the  melancholy  assurances  of  some  being  in  exist- 
ence, and  that  others  are  beyond  the  power  of  tyranny  and  oppression. 

I  am,  &c., 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike. 

In  a  late  involuntary  tour  which  I  made  through  part  of  his  Catholic 
majesty's  dominions  of  New  Sp'  in,  whilst  at  St.  Affe  [Santa  F6],  the 
capitol  of  N.  Mexico  and  Chihuahua,  I  met  with  a  number  of  the  poor 
unfortunate  companions  of  the  deceased  Nolan.  One  of  whom  gave  me 
the  following  cursory  statement  of  their  treatment,  &c.  since  their  being 
taken,  and  on  their  joint  application,  I  addressed  a  letter  to  his  excellency 
Nemeio  [st'c]  Salcedo,  in  their  favor,  of  which  an  extract  is  subjoined,  with 
the  verbal  reply  of  the  general. 

"  We  crossed  the  Mississippi  on  the  1st  day  of  November,  1800,  at  the 
Walnut  hil!s  [Nogales],  and  in  January  following  arrived  at  the  river 
Brassus  [Brazos],  in  the  provinces  of  Texus,  and  proceeded  to  build  pens 
(for  the  capture  of  mustangs].  Ii  March,  iSoi,  ve  began  to  run  wild 
horses,  and  having  caught  several  hunci.eds  of  them  we  selected  the 
handsomest  and  let  the  ballance  go.  On  the  22  of  March,  we  were 
attacked  at  break  of  day,  by  sixty  regular  troops,  and  two  hundred  and 
forty  militia  and  Indians,  with  one  field  piece.  Our  commander,  (Nolan) 
being  killed,  we  capitulated  in  the  evening,  on  the  assurance  that  Nolan 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


liii 


was  killed,  who  only  was  to  blame,  we  should  be  conducted  to  Nagga- 
doches  [Nacogdoches],  from  whence  there  was  no  doubt,  we  would 
have  permission  to  return  to  our  country,  as  joon  as  the  circumstances 
were  stated  to  the  governor  of  St.  Antonio.  We  remained  there  under 
promises  and  daily  expectations  of  being  released  until  July,  when  we 
were  all  put  in  heavy  irons. 

"  In  August  we  were  marched,  in  irons,  to  St.  Antonio  [Texas] ;  and 
in  December  through  the  province  of  Coqquella  [Coahuila]  and  [New] 
Biscay,  into  the  vice-royalty  of  Mexico,  to  the  city  of  St.  Louis  Potosi, 
wheie  >ve  remained  fourteen  months,  ironed,  and  in  close  confinement. 
In  February,  1803,  we  were  dispatched  to  Ciiihuahua,  where  after  some 
time,  our  ironsi  were  struck  off.  From  which  to  the  present  time,  we 
have  experienced  various  treatment,  sometimes  enjoying  the  liberty  of 
tiie  town,  sometimes  the  barracks,  and  for  three  months  in  irons  and 
close  confinerient. 

"  David  Fero,  from  near  Albany,  state  of  New  York,  has  been  alter- 
nately in  irons,  the  guard-house,  limits  of  the  fort  or  procedie  [presidio] 
—is  now  confined  to  the  limits  of  a  fort  called  Cayome  [su],  eight 
leagues  distant  from  Chihuahua — in  bad  health.  [See  beyond,  pp.  660, 
665,811.] 

"  Simon  M'Coy,  of  the  Oppelousas,  or  Natchez,  a  carpenter  by  profes- 
sion, has  the  liberty  of  the  town  of  Chihuahua — in  good  health. 

"Joseph  Reed,  state  of  Kentucky,  in  the  province  of  Biscay,  but  in 
v,'hac  part  and  how  situated  unknown. 

"Solomon  Cooley  [Colly  of  pp.  609,  613,  beyond],  of  the  state  of 
Connecticut,  a  tay'or  by  profession,  carries  on  his  business  in  the  town 
of  St.  Affee,  which  r>  his  limits. 

"  William  Danton,  of  Natchez,  residence  and  situation  unknown. 

"Charles  King,  of  Natchez,  works  at  the  carpenter's  trade,  is  confined 
by  night  to  the  quartel  at  Chihuahua — in  good  health. 

"  Ephriam  Blackburn,  of  Natchez,  is  in  some  of  the  procedios  of  the 
province  of  Biscay— situation  unknown. 

"Joel  Pears,  of  North  Carolina,  deceased  at  Chihuahua. 

"  John  Waters,  of  Winchester,  Virginia,  a  hatter.  ?nd  carries  on  his 
business  at  ChiiiMahua,  has  embraced  the  Roman  vJatholic  faith,  after 
betraying  a  well  concerted  plan  of  his  companions  to  effect  their  escape, 
and  in  which  it  is  supposed  they  would  have  succeeded :  his  treachery 
caused  them  a  close  confinement  in  irons,  and  in  a  loathsome  prison  for 
iliicc  months — he  is  hated  ind  despised,  not  o-  'y  by  his  own  country- 
niPii  but  by  every  houest  Spaniard  in  the  place. 

"Ellis  Bean,  of  Granger  county,  state  of  Tennessee,  a  hatter,  formerly 
carried  on  his  business  in  the  city  of  Chihuahua,  but  being  detected  in 
an  intrigue  with  the  daughter  of  an  officer,  and  refusing  to  marry  her. 


■}ii. 


>  I 


liv 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


was  in  close  confinement  at  St.  Jeronime  [San  Jeronimo],  a  few  leagues 
distant,  in  good  healtii. 

"  Thomas  House,  of  Jefferson  county,  Tennessee,  blacksmith,  confined 
to  the  quartel  at  night,  but  at  that  time  was  at  the  hospital,  in  a  very  bad 
state  of  health. 

"  Stephen  Richards,  of  Natchez,  has  inlisted  in  the  Spanish  service, 
was  lately  at  Baton  Rouge  with  his  father,  in  the  quality  of  a  citizen- 
belongs  to  the  troops  at  Nagadoches." 

[Here  follows  the  above-mentioned  letter  from  Pike  to  his  Excellency, 
General  Salcedo,  given  beyond,  pp.  810-812.] 

This  letter  I  presented  personally,  &  after  the  general  had  learned  its 
contents,  through  an  interpreter,  he  observed  in  reply  That  having  found 
those  men,  on  his  arrival  from  Europe,  to  take  the  command  of  the 
internal  provinces  of  New  Spain,  in  the  dungeons  of  St.  Louis  Potosi,  he 
had  demanded  them  of  the  Vice-Roy,  and  brought  them  to  Chihuahua, 
where  their  irons  were  struck  off,  and  every  indulgence  allowed  them 
which  his  responsibility  would  admit — that  he  had  felt  a  particular  desire 
to  serve  Fero,  but  whose  haughtiness  of  soul  would  not  permit  him  to 
be  under  any  obligation  to  the  government,  further  than  his  allowance 
of  twenty-five  cents  per  day.  That  he  had  reported  their  situation  to  the 
King,  and  consequently  must  await  the  orders  of  his  majesty  ;  that  with 
respect  to  the  letters,  they  had  always  been  permitted  to  correspond 
through  him,  with  their  friends — but  that  I  might  use  my  own  pleasure 
as  to  taking  letters,  but  he  thought  the  peculiar  delicacy  of  my  own 
situation,  should  prevent  me  from  taking  any  written  communication  out 
of  the  country. 

Thus  ended  the  conference,  and  thus  stands  the  situation  of  those 
unfortunate  men  at  present.  But  as  I  knew  some  part  of  the  general's 
information  to  be  incorrect,  and  especially  as  it  related  to  the  freedom  of 
communication  with  their  friends,  I  felt  no  such  peculiar  delicacy  as  to 
prevent  my  bringing  out  letters — but  brought  every  one  intrusted  to 
my  care.  [Signed]    Z.  M,  Pike. 

The  records  I  have  examined  do  not  show  Captain  Pike's 
movements  for  the  next  few  months.  But  imagination 
easily  forges  the  missing  links  of  the  return  of  an  intrepid 
and  successful  explorer  who  had  been  a  captive  in  foreign 
lands,  given  up  by  his  friends  as  lost  to  them  forever— a 
loved  husband,  whom  domus  et  placens  uxor  awaited — a 
hero,  whose  story  remained  to  be  told  to  a  public  eager  to 
hear  of  El  Dorado.  He  was  in  Washington  soon — most 
likely  before  the  end  of  the  year,  certainly  in  Jan.,  1808— 


,.lfi    :li|;f 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


Iv 


and  already  in  hjt  water.  For  he  took  a  header  into  the 
political  caldron,  which  perpetually  boils  there,  but  had 
been  superheated  for  him  in  consequence  of  his  supposed 
confidential  relations  with  his  military  commander-in-chief." 


'*  The  reputation  of  General  Wilkinson  for  honor  and  patriotism  went  under 
a  cloud,  from  which  it  has  never  been  cleared,  in  connection  with  the  Burr 
conspiracy.  He  was  technically  acquitted,  from  lack  of  evidence  to  convict ; 
but  the  proof  that  he  was  a  mercenary  traitor  subsequently  appeared.  General 
Winfield  Scott  is  reported  to  have  called  him  an  "unprincipled  imbecile." 
Governor  Adams  has  lately  put  the  case  bluntly,  but  as  I  believe  truthfully. 
Address,  July  I2th,  1894,  p.  2o :  "  General  Wilkinson,  then  in  command  of  the 
western  army,  has  been  proven  by  recently  discovered  documents  to  have  been 
'  a  rascal  through  and  through.'  He  was  in  sympathy  and  perhaps  in  the  con- 
fidence of  Burr.  Wearing  the  uniform  and  sword  of  an  American  officer,  he 
was  in  the  pay  of  Spain,  and  conspired  to  create  out  of  the  colonies  west  of  the 
mountains  a  Spanis'.i  empire.  It  was  Wilkinson  who  sent  Pike  west ;  but  no 
matter  how  guilty  may  have  been  his  superior  in  command.  Pike  certainly  had 
no  knowledge  of  his  schemes.  Pike  was  innocent  of  any  stain.  He  was  a 
patriot  as  pure  and  sincere  as  Wilkinson  was  a  traitor  base  and  ungrateful." 
While  there  is  no  question  of  Pike's  perfervid  patriotism,  we  may  doubt  that  his 
lamb's-wool  was  as  whitt.  is  all  that ;  in  fact.  Governor  Adams  himself  goes  on 
tc  ay  :  "  It  is  not  entirel)  clear  that  Pike  was  as  innocent  as  he  professed  of  his 
whereabouts  when  captured  in  the  San  Luis  valley.  SoniC  believe  he  knew  he 
was  upon  the  Rio  Grande,  and  not  upon  the  Red  [river],  as  he  pretended  to 
believe.  But  had  it  been  the  Red  instead  of  the  Rio  Grande,  what  right  had  he 
to  be  on  the  south  [1.^.,  west]  side  of  the  river,  his  rude  fort  being  several  miles 
south  [west]  of  the  stream  and  under  an  abeyance  treaty  upon  forbidden  ground  ? 
The  Spaniards  believed  that  Pike  carried  secret  orders  to  intrude  upon  their 
territory." 

This  belief  of  the  Spaniards  was  well  founded  :  c  ■  ■ .  arc-  my  notes  at  p.  499, 
p.  5C4,  p.  563,  and  p.  571.  Colonel  Meline  corroborates  the  general  tenor  and 
purport  of  these  observations,  in  the  following  terms,  p.  313  of  his  work  already 
cited ; 

"  Wilkinson's  bulky  and  diffuse  published  memoirs  may  be  searched  in  vain 
for  any  information  concerning  Pike's  expedition,  and  his  silence  on  the  subject 
is,  to  say  the  least,  sug.-'estive. 

"  Of  his  complicity  with  Burr  but  little  doubt  is  now  entertained  and  proofs 
are  not  wanting  of  the  existence  of  his  designs  upon  Mexico,  from  the  period  of 
his  note  in  cypher  to  Governor  Gayoso  de  Lemas  (February,  1 797),  and  his 
dealings  with  [Captain  Philip]  Noian,  down  to  the  conspiracy  of  1806. 

"  It  has  been  stated  that  Wilkinson  himself  planned  the  exploring  expedition 
of  Pike,  in  order  to  obtain  for  his  own  purposes  a  more  perfect  knowledge  of  the 
country,  and  that  he  availed  himself  of  his  official  authority  to  have  it  ordered 
by  the  Government.     [See  note  ',  p.  564.] 


>\\ 


i  1 
I 


*  ' 


Ivi 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


I 


His  name  came  before  Congress  in  a  way  which  ruffled  his 
plumes,  and  extorted  the  following  mettlesome  effusion  : 


Sir 


Washington  22  Feby  08. 


The  Honorable  John  Rowan  of  the  House  of  representatives  from 
Kentucky ;  has  this  day  made  some  observations  before  that  Honarable 
body  from  which  a  tacit  inference  might  be  drawn  that  my  late  Tour  to 
the  Westward  was  founded  on  Views  intirely  unknown  to  the  Goverment ; 
and  connected  with  the  nefarious  plans  of  Aaron  Burr  and  his  associates. 
Had  those  insinuations  arisen  in  any  other  quarter  I  should  have  con- 
cieved  that  my  early  choice  of  the  military  life,  the  many  ardious  and 
confidential  duties  I  have  performed,  with  the  perfect  knowledge  which 
the  Goverment  must  have  of  my  military  and  political  Character ;  would 
have  been  a  sufficient  justification  for  me  to  have  passed  over  tliein  in 
silence :  but  comeing  from  so  respectable  a  source.  I  feel  it  a  duty  to 
myself ;  my  family ;  and  my  profession  ;  to  request  of  you  a  testimonial 
which  may  shut  the  mouth  of  Calumny — and  strike  dumb  the  voice  of 
slander.  I  have  'herefore  to  request  of  you  Sir!  to  Honor  me  with 
a  communication  which  may  be  calculated  to  present  to  the  Speaker  of 
the  House  of  representatives  ;  or  a  Committee  of  their  Body,  v/ho  have 
been  appointed  to  inquire  whether  any,  or  what,  extra  Compensation 

"  The  Mississippi  Herald  of  September  15th,  1807,  published  the  affidavit  of 
Judge  Timothy  Kibby,  of  the  Louisiana  Territory,  acting  Chief  Justice  of  the 
Court  of  Common  Pleas  for  the  district  of  St.  Charles. 

"  The  affidavit  sets  forth— 

"  '  That  in  confidential  conversation  the  general  (Wilkinson)  speaking  of 
Pike's  Expedition,  upon  inquiry,  replied,  smiling,  that  it  was  nf  a  secret 
nature,  and  that  Lieutenant  Pike  himself  was  not  apprised  of  the  ultimate 
object  of  the  expedition,  but  that  his  destination  was  Santa  Fe,  treating  witli 
the  Indians  as  he  advanced. 

"  '  He  (Wilkinson)  intimated  that  Lieutenant  Pike  had  been  dispatched  by 
his  orders;  that  the  plan  was  his  own,  not  emanating  from  the  Government,  but 
assented  to.' " 

With  these  pertinent  particulars  I  could — but  need  not — forbear  to  cnuple 
the  racy  characterization   given  by  Mr.  Prentis,  p.  198  of  his  Kansan  Abroad ; 

"  The  military  officer  in  charge  of  the  western  country  at  that  time  [1806] 
was  General  James  Wilkinson,  a  restless,  bombastic,  fussy  old  gentleman,  witiia 
rare  faculty  forgetting  into  difficulties.  As  an  officer  in  the  Revolutionary  army, 
he  was  concerned  in  the  [Thomas]  Conway  cabal,  a  plot  to  supplant  Washington, 
and  place  in  his  stead  General  Gates,  an  officer  who  afterwards  got  beautifully 
thrashed  by  the  British  at  Camden.  He  turned  up  in  the  army,  after  being  for 
a  while  a  merchant  at  Lexington,  Kentucky,  in  1791  ;  received  Louisiana  from 
the  French  in  1803,  and  contrived  to  get  mixed  up  in  the  Burr  business  to  such 


should  be 
covery,  and 
to  this  lette 


The  Hon. 

Henrv 

Sec.  A 

On  the  £ 
Dearborn 
erasures,  tc 
himself.  I 
was  publish 
action,  as  a 
of  the  orig. 
follows ; 


i  ' 


.Mvl 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


Ivii 


should  be  made  me  &  my  Companions ;  for  our  late  Voyages  of  Dis- 
covery, and  exploration ;  and  that  I  may  have  permission  to  give  publicity 
to  this  letter  which  I  have  the  Honor  to  address  you,  and  your  answer. 
I  am  Sir  with  High  Consideration 

Your  ob*.  Set*. 
[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike  Cap*  i»t. 
UStates  Regt.  Infy 
The  Hon. 
Henry  Dearborne 
Sec.  War.  Dep*. 


On  the  same  sheet  of  paper  which  has  this  letter,  General 
Dearborn  drafted  a  reply,  with  many  interlineations  and 
erasures,  to  be  copied  in  a  fair  clerk's  hand  and  signed  by 
himself.  In  its  final  form,  as  received  by  Captain  Pike,  it 
was  published,  with  other  papers  relating  to  Congressional 
action,  as  a  part  of  Document  No.  6  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  3 
of  the  orig.  ed.  of  this  work :  see  p.  844.  Its  first  form  is  as 
follows : 

an  extent  that  nobody  knows  to  this  day,  I  believe,  which  side  he  was  on.  He 
was  investigated,  court-martialed,  and  acquitted  ;  went  into  the  war  of  1S12  ; 
served  on  the  Canadian  frontier  ;  was  a  conspicuous  failure  ;  was  court-martialed 
again  [subjected  to  a  court  of  inquiry],  and  again  acquitted  ;  and  finally,  there 
being  in  those  days  no  chance  to  enter  the  lecture  field,  he  wrote  his  memoirs 
[1816],  and  retired  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  where  he  died. 

"General  James  Wilkinson  in  his  day  was  probably  the  subject  of  more 
uncomplimentary  remarks  than  any  man  of  his  caliber  in  the  country,  and  I 
deem  it  no  more  than  justice  to  say  for  him,  that,  with  all  his  faults,  he  was  the 
steadfast  friend  of  Zebulon  M.  Pike." 

I  may  add,  that  left-hand  compliments  to  this  notorious  individual  have  been 
current  from  that  day  to  this,  and  are  still  in  order.  One  of  the  keenest  of  them 
is  attributed  to  a  distinguished  contemporary  who,  it  is  said,  favored  his  appoint- 
men'  to  the  command  of  the  army  as  the  only  way  of  "  keeping  him  out  of 
niiscl  ief "  ! 

Tiie  following  is  the  formal  official  record  of  General  Wilkinson  :  Of  Mary- 
land, appointed  from  that  State  colonel  and  adjutant-general  in  Gates'  army 
during  the  Revolutionary  war  with  brevet  of  brigadier-general  from  Nov.  6th, 
1777 1  lieutenant-colonel  commanding  the  2d  Ip^antry  Oct.  22d,  1791  ; 
btigadier-general  March  5th,  1792  ;  commander-in-chief  of  the  army  from 
Dec.  15th,  1796,  to  July  13th,  1798,  and  from  June  15th.  1800,  to  Jan.  27th, 
1812  ;  brevet  major-general,  July  loth,  1812  ;  major-general.  Mar.  2d,  1813  ; 
honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815  ;  died  Dec.  28th,  1825. 


Iviii 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


II!'.'  .1:1 


m  m 


Feb  :  24.  1808,  War  Dept. 
Sir.  In  answer  to  your  letter  of  the  22''  Inst.  I  with  pleasure  observe 
that  alth'o  the  two  exploring  expeditions  you  have  performed  were  not 
previously  ordered  by  the  President  of  the  U.  S.  there  were  frequent 
communications  on  the  subject  of  each,  between  Gen'.  Wilkinson  & 
this  Department,  of  which  the  President  of  the  U.  S.  was  aquainted 
from  time  to  time,  and  it  will  be  no  more  than  what  justice  requires  to 
say,  that  your  conduct  in  each  of  those  expeditions  met  the  approbation 
of  ihe  President ;  and  that  the  information  you  obtained  and  communi- 
cated to  the  Executive  in  relation  to  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  &  the 
natives  in  that  quarter  and  the  country  g  >erally  as  well  on  the  uper 
Mississippi  as  that  between  the  Arkansas  <  the  Missouri,  and  on  tiie 
borders  of  the  latter  extensive  river  to  i  source,  and  the  adjacent 
countries,  has  been  considered  as  highly  .nteresting  in  a  political, 
geographical  &  historical  view.  And  you  may  rest  assured  that  your 
services  are  held  in  high  estimation  by  the  President  of  the  U.  S.;  and  if 
opinion  of  my  own  can  afford  you  any  satisfaction  I  can  very  frankly 
declare  that  I  consider  the  public  very  much  indebted  to  you  for  the 
enterprising  persevering  and  judicious  manner  in  which  you  have 
performed  them. 

[No  signature.] 

To  the  above  Pike  made  reply  at  once : 

Washington  City  26  Feby  08 
Sir! 

Suffer  me  to  offer  through  you,  to  the  president  of  the  United  States 
the  effusions  of  a  Heart  impress'd  with  Gratitude  for  the  very  honarable 
testimonial  of  his  approbation  received  by  the  Medium  of  your  Com- 
munication of  the  24  Inst. 

The  Confidence  of  the  Executive,  and  the  respect  of  our  fellow 
Citizens,  must  be  the  grand  desiderata  of  every  man  of  Honor,  who 
wears  a  sword  in  the  republican  Armies  of  the  United  States ;  to  acquire 
which  has  been  the  undeviateing  pursuit  of  the  earliest  part  of  my  life,  & 
shall  mark  the  colour  of  my  future  actions. 

Suffer  me  to  add  Sir  !  that  I  feel  myself  deeply  impressed  by  the  Senti- 
ments of  personal  respect  and  consideration  with  which  you  was  pleased 
to  Honor  me — and  shall  always  be  proud  to  be  considered  as  one  who 
holds  for  your  person  and  character  Sentiments  of  the  Sincerest  Respect 
&  Esteem 

I  am  Sir 

Your  ob  Sert 
The  Koni.  [Signed]    Z.  M.  PiKE  Capt 

Hen.  Dearborne 
Sec  War  Dep*. 


Mean 

dear  to  ( 

His  maj 

to  have 

smile  at 

States  ar 

new.     Bt 

estabh'sh 

States — r 

to  produc 

curious  cc 


It  appear 
Year  1666.  \ 
bridge— a  m 
ment.— I  hai 
Childhood  a 
revolutionarj 
Cap'.  ZM.  Pi 
New-Jersey, 
farrily  for  ne 


■(■« 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


lix 


Meanwhile  Captain  Pike  was  panting  for  promotion — 
dear  to  every  soldier's  heart,  and  in  his  case  well  deserved. 
His  majority  was  in  sight  but  not  in  hand.  There  appears 
to  have  been  a  technical  obstacle  in  his  way.  We  often 
smile  at  the  witticism  expressed  in  the  phrase :  "the  United 
States  and  New  Jersey."  Like  most  such  things,  it  is  not 
new.  Being  a  Jerseyman,  Captain  Pike  was  required  to 
establish  the  fact  tha':  he  was  not  an  alien  to  the  United 
States — not  for  that  reason,  perhaps — still  he  was  required 
to  produce  certain  evidence  of  citizenship,  as  the  following 
curious  correspondence  shows: 

New-Jersey.  Trenton  23d  March  1808. 
It  appears  by  the  records  of  this  State,  that  Cap'.  John  Pike,  in  the 
Year  1666.  was  one  of  the  Original  purchasers  of  &  Settlers  in  Wood- 
bridge — a  magistrate  &  member  of  Council  under  the  Proprietory  govern- 
ment.— I  have  been  well  acquainted  with  Major  Zebulon  Pike,  from  my 
Childhood  and  with  Capt.  John  Brown  (Lieuten*.  of  Cavalry  in  the 
revolutionary  War)  also  a  Native  of  Woodbridge — and  whose  daughter 
Cap'.  ZM.  Pike  married ;  so  that  Cap'  Pike  has  good  reason  to  claim 
New- Jersey,  not  only  as  his  Native  State,  but  as  the  residence  of  his 
family  for  near  a  Century  &  a  half. 

[Signed]    Joseph  Bloomfield 

The  above  certificate  of  Governor  Bloomfield  was  in- 
closed by  Pike  to  the  War  Department  with  the  following 
letter : 

Washington  City  4  Apl  1808 
Sir! 

Having  received  the  enclosed  document  from  Gov^  Bloomfield  on  the 
27th  \j\^o_ — yyho  has  particularly  interested  himself  in  my  promotion  in 
in  the  profession  my  inclination  has  induced  me  to  persue  ;  I  should  not 
have  conceived  it  necessary  to  have  laid  it  before  you  had  I  not  under- 
stood that  you  expressed  a  doubt  as  to  the  place  of  my  nativity ;  and 
whether,  the  state  of  Jersey,  was  that  of  which  I  had  a  right  to  claim 
a  Citizenship.  I  had  not  conceived  that  it  would  be  requisite  for 
a  native  of  America  who  had  served  his  country  in  Arms  for  Years  (And 
his  forefathers  before  him)  to  establish  the  Locality  of  his  birth  right  but 
the  prevoy  prevoyance  of  my  respected  friend  His  Excells  Gov'.  Bloom- 
Aeld  has  laid  it  in  my  power  to  satisfy  Gen'.  Dearborne  on  that  Subject 


i  ^  -■; 


Ix 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


iiniMl 


— I  hope  I  shall  be  pardoned  for  thus  intrudeing  myself  on  the  time  of 
the  Secy  of  War,  and  beg  leave  to  oifer  assurances  of  High  respect 

&  Esteem 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike 
The  Honi. 
Hen"'^  Dearbornk. 
Sec'  War  Dep*. 

Having  thus  proven  that  he  was  a  citizen  of  New  Jersey 
and  of  the  United  States,  the  captain  could  feel  that  the 
coveted  majority  was  his.  His  commission  as  major  of 
the  6th  Infantry,  of  date  May  3d,  1808,  was  acknowledged 
by  him  in  the  following  letter,  which  I  have  also  chosen  as 
the  one  to  be  reproduced  in  facsimile  for  the  present  work : 

Washington  5  May.  1808 
Sir 

I  have  the  Honor  to  acknowledge  the  receiipt  of  yours,  notifying  me  of 
my  appointment  to  a  Majority  in  the  6th  Regt.  of  Infantry  in  the  Service 
of  the  United  States.  You  will  please  Sir !  to  receive  this  as  my  accept- 
ance  of  the  same,  and  believe  me  to  be 

With  High  Consideration 

Your  Ob*.  Ser*. 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike 
The  Hon'. 
Henry  Dearborne 
Sec.  War  Dep. 

Among  other  things  which  had  engaged  Major  Pike's 
attention  was  of  course  his  book — that  story  of  his  ad- 
ventures which  he  had  fondly  dreamed  would  immortalize 
his  name,  and  respecting  which  his  dream  was  realized. 
He  had  already  made  such  progress  in  his  literary  work 
that  he  entered  into  official  correspondence  with  the 
Secretary  of  War  on  that  subject.     For  instance  : 

Washington,  14*  April  1808. 
Sir:— 

[A  two-page  letter  concluding  thus  :] 
I  shall  in  a  day  or  two  address  an  unofficial  letter  to  the  President, 
requesting  the  favour  of  his  advice,  on  the  Subject  of  the  publication  of 
my  Voyages,  on  which,  he  having  read  them,  in  Manuscript,  will  be  a 


-y 

he 
of 
ed 
as 
•k: 

i8 

e  of 
vice 
ept- 


:e 


kes 
ad- 
ize 
sed. 
ork 
the 


lent, 
I  of 


be  a 


'  '"I 
i    t'l 


;   1 


(    ■  !  ■ 


ii-l    : 


1    ii 


4hjl —  ^Z^^U^     ikJt^^ftA  5i/«^///f 


cr  c^x.^. 


'^^CC- 


^r    -/l^- 


^^  /u^   j^at 


irX:t^^^nJ? 


^. 


^ 


^^.      y^'JUao^./^j^ 


^Ut^_  - 


lt^€^  ^ 


■    4^- 

.  ^7cB  an. 


^'^z^-^/r.^^j?^ 


^'^^H.*^     £^^4^_ 


^4^ 


Ju 


a/t.^hcn4tAS> 


<2^J:Jc^a^Ji^. 


Compete 
Depart  m 


-^. 


,idf 


./<■■- 


./ 


J- 


ir'  ^.^^^ 


X 


■/i 


/ 


a^ 


/ 


w 


The  i; 

die  is  al 
itself  : 

D--.  SiK ! 

I  have  ( 
C"  of  this  j 
pr.  Cent  on 
This,  with 
extreanie  si 
to  fame  tiia 
-The  Woi 
we  cannot ' 
patronage  \ 
Conrad  and 
p.irtment. 
letter  addre^ 
if  he  does  n 
•It  the  preser 
to  him,  and 
after  he  has 
cannot  be  sp, 
another  pers 
I  heg  leave 
heen  made  in 
he  hrought 

Will  Gen' 
the  many  fav 
sincere  respec 


The  Wat 
for  General 
writing,  "  \ 

Matters  t 


ir 


Tfff 


^y 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


Ixi 


Competent  Judge — In  this  I  shall  speak  as  having  the  permission  of  your 
Department  for  the  publication.— 

I  am  Sir, 

with  great  Consideration, 

Your  obt.  scrvt. 
[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike  Captain. 

The  inside  history  of  books  which  the  world  will  not  let 
die  is  always  interesting.  Here  is  a  letter  which  speaks  for 
itself  : 

Philadelphia  27  May.  1808. 
D^  Sir  ! 

I  have  entered  into  an  agreement  with  the  firm  of  Conrad,  Lucas  8c 
C"  of  this  place  to  print  and  publish  my  Tours,  for  which  I  allow  them  20 
pr.  Cent  on  all  tiie  sales,  and  pay  besides  the  expences  of  printing  &c. — 
This,  with  bad  debts  and  other  Casualities  will  leave  to  myself  but  an 
extreame  small  profit  but  as  a  soldiers  views,  are  more  Generally  directed 
to  fame  than  interest  I  hope  that  one  object  will  at  least  be  accomplished. 
—The  Work  will  not  exceed  four  dollars  pr.  Copy  but  the  exact  price 
we  cannot  yet  ascertain  but  hope  Gen'.  Dearborne  will  give  it  all  the 
patronage  which  he  may  deem  it  entitled  to;  and  Signify  to  Mess". 
Conrad  and  Lucas  the  number  of  Copies  you  will  take  on-"  c  of  your  De- 
partment. 1  have  taken  the  Liberty  of  encloseing  under  cover  to  you  a 
letter  addressed  to  Nau  [the  draughtsman]  which  the  Secy  can  read,  and 
if  he  does  not  wish  to  retain  that  man,  in  the  Service  of  the  Goverment 
at  the  present  time  he  will  be  good  enough  to  have  the  letter  presented 
to  him,  and  should  the  Goverment  wish  his  services  in  the  Autumn  or 
after  he  has  done  my  business  he  can  return  to  Washington;  But  if  he 
cannot  be  spared  by  the  Depart*,  the  letter  can  be  distroyed  look  out  for 
another  person — 

I  beg  leave  to  remind  the  Secy  of  War  of  the  applications  which  have 
been  made  in  favour  of  my  friend  Doc"".  Robinson — and  hope  he  may  yet 
be  brought  in  for  a  Company  Vice  some  one  who  did  not  accept. 

Will  Gen'.  Dearborne  accept  of  my  sincere  acknowledgements  for 
the  many  favours  he  has  conferred  on  me  and  believe  me  to  be  with 
sincere  respect  and  Esteem. 

His  ob»  Ser« 

[Signed]    Z  M  Pike 

The  War  Department  proved  to  be  a  liberal  subscriber  ; 
for  General  Dearborn  indorsed  the  above  in  his  own  hand- 
writing, "  We  will  take  50  copies." 

Matters  thus  being  satisfactorily  arranged  for  the  publica- 


i 


Ixii 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


tion  of  his  book,  Major  Pike  seems  to  have  returned  at 
once,  or  very  soon,  to  military  duty  in  his  new  rank — unless 
he  went  to  see  his  wife  on  leave  of  absence.  We  find  hh\ 
at  Belle  Fontaine  in  August  of  this  year,  as  evidenced  by  a 
letter  I  will  transcribe  in  part,  epitomizing  the  rest : 


I  ,t 


mm 


\m 


Camp  Belle  Fontain— 
iSAug*.  1808, 
Sir! 

Col.  Hunt'*  deceased  last  night  at  half  past  12  O.  C.  after  an  illness  of 
soma  weeks — He  has  left  a  distressed  widow  and  nine  children  unpro- 
videa  for,  and  unprotected.  [The  letter  recommends  military  appoint- 
ments for  Col.  Hunt's  two  sons,  George  and  Thomas ;  states  that  the 
command  of  the  district  has  devolved  on  Capt.  James  House  of  tiie 
artillery  ;  that  Capt,  Clemson's  company  of  the  ist  Infantry  had 
marched  10  days  before  for  Fire  Prairie,  25  miles  up  the  Missouri,  and 
Capt.  Pinckney's  company  was  to  march  in  about  10  days  for  the  Des 
Moines  r.,  which  would  leave  only  one  company  of  artillery  at  Belle 
Fontaine  ;  wishes  to  know  when  he  shall  have  definite  orders  to  join  his 
battalion  in  New  Jersey ;  expects  to  be  at  Pittsburgh  next  October ; 
and  continues  :]  which  is  my  anxious  wish  as  from  appearances  we  shall 
again  have  to  meet  the  European  Invaders  of  our  country  and  if  I  know 
myself,  I  feel  anxious  to  have  the  honor  of  being  amongst  the  first  to 
rencounter  their  boasted  phalanx's — and  to  evence  to  them  that  the  sons 
are  able  to  sustain  the  Independence  handed  down  to  us  by  our  Fathers 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike,  Maf. 
gin  Reg'  Inf 

Before  the  year  closed  Major  Pike  had  come  East,  and 
found  his  hands  full,  no  doubt,  in  presenting  to  Congress 
the  claims  of  himself  and  his  men  to  the  generous  consid- 
eration of  that  body,  in  the  little  matter  of  an  appropria- 
tion for  their  benefit.  Those  who  have  ever  had  occasion 
to  cool  their  heels  in  the  halls  of  greatness,  till  the  mercury 
cf  their  hopes  congealed  in  the  bulbs  of  their  thoroughly 

'■*  Thomas  Hunt  of  Massachusetts  had  been  a  captain  in  the  Revolutionary 
Army  when  he  was  made  a  captain  of  thei.2d  Infantry  Mar.  4th,  1791  ;  he  was 
assigned  to  the  Second  sub-Legion  Sept.  4th,  1792  ;  was  promoted  to  a  majority 
Feb.  i8th,  1793;  was  in  the  1st  Infantry  Nov.  ist,  T796;  made  a  lieutenant- 
colonel  A|ir.  1st,  1802,  and  colonel  April  nth,  1803  ;  he  died  Aug.  i8th,  1808, 
and  it  fell  to  the  lart  of  Pike  to  announce  his  death  to  the  War  Department. 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


Ixiii 


refrigerated  boots,  will  best  appreciate  Pike's  plight.  The 
novelist's  realism  of  little  Miss  Flite  in  Chancery  is  out- 
realized  in  the  Bleak  House  on  Capitol  Hill,  which  William 
McGarrahan  haunted  for  a  lifetime,  and  from  which  his 
injured  ghost  may  not  yet  be  freed.  The  following  letter 
was  written  when  Pike  had  not  lost  hope : 


Capitol  Hill,  2  Decern'.  08, 
Sir 

I  am  informed  by  M"".  Montgomery  that  some  members  of  the  com- 
mittee (on  the  resolutions  moved  in  favour  of  my  late  exploreing  parties) 
wish  to  have  '^ur  members  officially  notified  ;  and  the  time  we  were  em- 
ployed in  eacii  Expedition,  which  information  you  requested  from  Gen- 
eral Wilkinson — Inclosed  you  have  a  return  of  the  party  on  each  tour 
and  the  commencement  &  expiration,  but  as  all  the  intervening  time  be- 
tween my  return  from  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  to  our  departure  to 
the  West  we  were  employed  in  prepareing  for  the  second  tour ;  I  submit 
to  your  Judgment  whether  the  whole  should  not  be  engrossed — Also 
there  being  a  number  of  men  still  in  new  Spain  the  time  will  necessarily 
be  extended  to  them.  [This  matter  makes  chap,  vi.,  pp.  840-855, 
beyond.] 

The  Committee  meet  to-morrow  morning  will  Gen'.  Dearborne  have 
the  goodness  to  furnish  them  with  the   necessary  information  by  that 
time — I  would  have  waited  on  you  personally  but  am  this  day  to  set  on 
General  v^^urt  Martial  which  convenes  at  9  OC.  A.  M. 
I  am  Sir  with  High  Respect 

&  Esteem  your  ob.  ser* 

[Signed]    Z  M  Pike  Maj'. 

6  Peg'  Infy 
The  Hon'. 
Henry  Dearborne 
Sec  W.  Dep'. 

Nothing  cams  of  this  move.  Pike  was  less  fortunate  than 
Lewis  and  Clark.  The  difference  did  not  all  depend  upon 
merit;  simply,  he  had  no  political  "  pull."  llis  expeditions 
originated  with  General  Wilkinson ;  they  were  military 
movements  with  which  the  President  had  nothing  to  do. 
Jealousy  is  the  most  nearly  universal  of  human  weaknesses, 
in  high  as  well  as  low  places;  besides  which,  Thomas  Jeffer- 
son had  his  own  opinion  of  James  Wilkinson.     Whatever 


!    \ 


Ixiv 


MEMOIR   OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


I:i 

I 


mi 


m. 


■    -ti 


a 


Major  Pike  may  have  thought  of  it,  he  certainly  lost  little 
time  in  dancing  attendance  on  Congress ;  he  was  not  built 
for  a  lobbyist.  In  Dec,  1808,  we  find  him  on  military  duty 
at  Fort  McHenry,  Md.,  as  appears  from  various  ofificial  let- 
ters of  his  before  me,  but  which  need  not  be  transcribed,  as 
they  represent  merely  the  routine  correspondence  of  an 
army  ofificer.  At  some  period  in  1809  he  was  transferred  to 
the  West ;  and  he  was  on  duty  as  military  agent  in  New 
Orleans  from  Sep  t3th,  1809,  to  Mar.  loth,  18 10,  or  later, 
by  virtue  of  the  following  order : 


Camp  Terre  au  Bceuf, 


Sir 


Sep'.  13"*.  1809 


The  Situation  of  the  public  service  and  the  impossibility  of  finding  a 
suitable  Character  in  private  life  to  undertake  the  temporary  duties  of 
Milita/y  Agent,  Obliges  me  to  impose  that  Office  on  you.  .  .  .  [instruc- 
tions follow.] 

[Signed]  ■        J.  Wilkinson 

Maj'.  Z.  M.  Pike 

During  his  tour  of  duty  in  New  Orleans  Major  Pike  be- 
came lieutenant-colonel  of  the  4th  Infantry  Dec.  31st,  1809. 
One  of  Lieutenant-Colonel  Pike's  letters  shows  that  he  did 
not  forget  "  Baroney,"  his  quondam  companion  in  arms  on 
the  Arkansaw : 


Sir 


New  Orleans 

March  4"».  1810 


Ensign  Vasquez  of  the  2^  Infantry  who  was  late  Interpreter  on  the 
tour  of  Discovery  to  tiie  source  of  the  Arkansaw  &"  presented  himself  to 
me  at  this  place.  After  being  three  years  in  the  United  States  service 
vvitiiout  receiving  any  settlement  I  made  a  statement  of  his  accounts  and 
gave  him  an  advance  in  Cash  and  a  draft  for  the  balance,  in  order  that 
if  the  form  of  settlement  did  not  meet  your  approbation  they  might  be 
corrected.  He  has  been  absent  going  on  four  years,  and  begs  permission 
to  return  to  St  Louis  to  see  his  Aged  parents,  which  I  hope  will  be 
granted  him  by  the  Hon'.  Secretary  of  War.  The  French  language  is 
his  proper  one  ;  but  he  speaks  Spanish  very  well,  and  is  beginning  with 
the  English,  but  very  imperfectly  as  yet.  Under  those  circumstances  I 
should  conceive  his  services  would  be  most  important  on  the  Spanish 


MEMOIR   OF   ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


Ixv 


Frontiers.     As  lie  is  aliout  to  embark  for  the  City  of  Washington,  I  shall 
furnish  him  with  a  duphcate  of  this  letter,  and  remain  Sir,  with 
the  highest  Respect  &  Esteem 

Your  Obdt.  Servt. 

Z.  M.  Pike 
Ti.e  Hon'  William  Eustis      ) 
Secretary  War  Department  \ 

There  is  little  to  mark  Lieutenant-Colonel  Pike's  career  in 
1810-11,  or  until  the  breaking  out  of  the  war  of  1812. 
P'roni  many  letters  I  hr  ve  seen  by  which  he  can  be  traced 
in  these  years,  uneventful  for  him,  I  select  one  which  shows 
the  wf^rkings  of  his  mind  at  this  time,  as  well  as  his  readi- 
ness to  ventilate  the  views  which  he  entertained.  Charac- 
ters such  as  his  have  visions  which  they  may  freely  express 
without  carrying  conviction  to  others.  The  frUowing  com- 
:i..!  lication  was  received  at  the  War  Department  from 
•  ssissippi  Territory : 


Sir 


Cantonment,  Washington  June  10,  10 


Although,  it  may  be  deemed  unmiiitavy  in  me  (a  Suborrlinate  in  Com- 
mand) to  address  myself  immediately  to  the  War  Dej^artment  yet  the 
purport  of  this  Communication  being  principally  of  a  private  nature,  I 
presume  it  will  not,  be  deemed  a  great  deviation  from  propriety. — I 
entered  the  Army  at  the  early  age  of  fifteen,  and  have  continued  to 
pursue  my  profession  with  enthusiasm  to  the  present  time  a  period 
upwards  of  Sixteen  years  during  which  I  have  had  every  practical  expe- 
rience which  the  times  offered  of  becoming  a  Soldier. — Togetiier  with  a 
Careful  perusal  of  numerous  Millitary  authors  in  the  French  &  English 
languages. — But  hapily  for  my  Country  her  Councils  have  been  guided 
by  Such  Judicious  Measures;  That  the  opportunity  which  I  have  so  long 
panted  for,  of  Calling  into  Action,  The  Experience  I  possess,  has  never 
Occured.— Knowing  that  it  must  be  tlie  interest  of  the  U  :  S  to  keep  at 
peace  with  the  world,  and  despairing  of  ever  being  Call''  Into  actual 
service  I  should  some  time  since  have  resign**,  the  sword  and  became  a 
farmer,  (The  only  proffession  I  can  acquire)  only  for  the  unsettled  state 
of  our  foreign  affairs. — Fortune  has  at  length  placed  me  (Through  the 
instrumentality  of  General  Hampton)  at  the  Head  of  the  Compleatest 
hiidy  of  Infantry  in  the  US. — If  this  Regiment  should  be  Consolidated 
and  the  Co',  not  join,  I  should  be  very  happy  to  if  tain  the  Command  and 
remain  in  this  quarter. — If  not  I  would  hope  to  be  ordered  to  join  my 


Si 


.j 


Ixvi 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


Regiment  in  New  England,  a  quarter  of  the  Union  I  should  be  gratify*, 
in  spending  some  time  in. — Should  I  remain  here  and  be  permitted  to 
introduce  the  modern  Discipline — into  the  Corps  I  would  pledge  my 
existance  it  would  be  equal  to  any  in  the  U  S.  in  one  year.  This  is  a 
subject  of  much  diversity  of  Oppinion,  as  many  gentlemen  wish  to  Con- 
fine us  to  Stuben." — The  value  of  whose  system  no  man  appreciates  more 
justly  than  myseli  But  the  Battle  of  Jena  but  too  fatally  evinced  to  the 
Prusian  Monarch  that  the  mordern  improvements  in  the  Art  of  War  had 
been  such,  as  entirely  to  overturn  the  principles  of  manourvres  of  the 
Malboroughs— Eugenes  and  Fredericks.  The  Millitary  Establishment  of 
the  United  States  can  only  be  viewed  as  the  nuclues  of  an  Army  in  Case 
of  War,  from  whence  Could  be  drawn  Staff  Officers  well  versed  in  tactics 
and  police — In  the  foregoing  observations  I  mean  to  cast  no  reflections 
on  my  superior  officers  ; — but  Conceive  at  the  same  time  the  Ideas  may 
not  be  deemed  obtrusive  On  the  Hon'  Secty  of  War. — Whilst  makeing 
this  unofficial  Communication  I  think  it  my  duty  to  intimate  the  situation 
in  which  the  neighbouring  province  of  Florida  now  stands.  The  Gov- 
erment  is  in  a  Compleat  state  of  Lethargic. — The  Citizens  are  forrming 
committees  and  appear  to  be  disposed  to  offer  their  allegiance  to  the  U 
S.  when  if  it  should  be  refused,  they  will  Make  it  a  tender  to  Great 
Britain  this  would  have  been  done  some  time  since  had  they  not  feared 
the  Isle  of  Cuba. — That  Cuba  is  competant  to  keep  them  in  Subjection 
by  force  is  extremely  doubtful ;  But  what  line  of  Conduct  the  U.  S  will 
persue  on  the  Occasion  is  an  important  question. — our  views  should  only 
be  turned  to  the  effect  our  interferance  would  have  abroad  for  we  have 
disposible  force  in  this  territory  &  Orleans  when  joined  to  the  Malcon- 
tents amply  sufficient  to  secure  possession  of  the  province ;  But  with 
respect  to  the  effect  this  would  have  on  Mexico  is  seriously  to  be  taken 
into  concideration  Mexico  including  all  the  possessions  of  Spain  North 


"  Baron  Friedrich  Wilhelm  August  Heinrich  Ferdinand  von  Steuben,  the 
Prussian-American  general,  b.  Magdeburg,  Nov.  17th,  1730,  d.  New  York, 
Nov.  28th,  1794.  He  entered  the  Prussian  military  service  in  1744,  rising  to 
the  rank  of  adjutant-general  and  staff  officer,  1762  ;  was  distinguished  at 
Prague,  Rossbach,  Kunersdorf,  1757-1759,  and  at  the  s^ige  of  Schweidnitz  ;  and 
later,  in  1764,  was  grand  marshal  to  the  Prince  of  Hohenzollern.  In  1777 
he  came  to  the  United  States,  reaching  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  Dec,  1st  ;  was 
appointed  by  Washington  inspector-general,  with  the  rank  of  major-general, 
May  5th,  1778  ;  and  reorganized  the  army.  He  served  at  Monmouth  and 
Yorktown,  and  was  a  member  of  the  court-marti.d  on  Andre  in  1780.  His 
manual  for  the  army  was  approved  by  Congress  in  1779  ;  in  1790  he  was  voted 
by  that  body  a  life-annuity  of  $2,500  ;  and  New  York  State  gave  him  16,000 
acres  near  Utica.  Various  places  are  named  Steuben  or  .Steubenville.  Life  by 
F.  Bowen  in  Sparks'  Amer.  Biogr.     Life  by  F.  Kapp,  N.  Y.,  i860. 


1^^ 


■■■H 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


Ixvii 


rth 


the 

rk, 

! 

to 

at 

if 

and 
777 

i 

was 

ral, 

and 

Ilis 

000 

cby 

i 

of  Terra  Firma  [Tierra  Firme],  must  constitute  ere  long  a  great  and 
independant  power  of  at  least  seven  millions  of  souls,  with  more  of  the 
precious  metals  than  any  other  nation  in  the  world  will  it  not  be  an 
ol)ject  of  the  first  Magnitude  for  the  U  S  to  secure  the  trade,  friendship 
nud  alliance  of  this  people.  They  never  will  become  a  maratime  or 
manufactoring  nation  they  are  at  present  pasforial  and  On  trial  will 
prove  Warlike.  I  hesitate  not  to  say  they  Can  pour  forth  thousans  of 
Calvary  surpass'd  by  none  in  the  World.  To  this  power  We  might 
become  the  Carryers  and  Manifactories,  for  which  no  Nation  Could  vie 
with  us ;  which  would  be  sources  of  immence  Wealth. — And  an  Aug- 
mentation of  our  power. — To  this  very  important  object  I  hutnby  Con- 
ceive a  too  early  attention  Cannot  be  paid — On  this  subject  I  have  prob- 
aly  intruded  my  oppinion  on  Mr.  Eustis,  but  I  could  not  forbear  giveing 
those  intimations  which  I  conceived  might  be  beneficial  to  my  Country.^ 
I  had  a  brother  in  the  Millitary  Academy  from  whom  I  have  not  heard  for 
some  time  should  he  merit  the  favour  of  his  Country ;— or  if  his  Fathers 
Thirty  Years  service  or  my  own  claim  some  small  indulgence  for  him,  I 
hope  he  may  be  appointed  an  Ensign  of  Infantry  and  sufferd  to  join  the 
Regiment  to  which  I  may  be  attached  ;  the  latter  part  of  this  request  is 
not  made  from  a  desire  that  I  may  have  it  in  my  power  to  shew  him  any 
favour ;— far  from  it, — but  that,  I  may  have  him  near  me  to  Restrain  the 
Disposition  which  all  youths  evince  for  irregularities.  And  point  out  to 
him  the  paths  of  propriety  and  Honor,  also  that  he  may  benefit  [by]  the 
few  years  he  can  appropriate  to  study  by  the  use  of  a  variety  of  Millitary 
Authors  I  have  collected. — Such  are  my  reasons  for  wishing  my  brother 
with  me.  I  hope  this  may  meet  the  approbation  of  the  Hon*"  Secr'^. — 
And  this  letter  may  be  attributed  to  its  true  motives,  and  that  the  Honble 
Secty  may  beleive  me  as  I  am  from  Duty  and  inclination  Sincerely 
devoted  to  my  Country  and  his  obedt 

Hble  Sert— 
[Signed]    Z  M  Pike 
Tlie  Hon'. 
\Vm.  Eustis 

Secy  War  Dep* — 

Lieutenant-Colonel  Pike's  "despair  of  ever  being  called 
into  service  "  was  of  short  duration.  He  was  soon  to  be 
called  upon  to  lay  down  his  life  for  his  country  on  the  bat- 
tlefield. From  April  3d,  1812,  to  July  3d  of  that  year  he 
had  been  deputy  quartermaster-general.  He  was  promoted 
to  the  colonelcy  of  the  15th  Infantry  July  6th,  1812.  The 
war  was   upon   us.     Colonel    Pike's   qualifications   for  the 


Vy 


Ixviii        MEMOIR   OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  TIKE. 


[■'':       >      ■' 


II, 


command  of  a  regiment  may  be  best  estimated  in  the 
terms  of  his  mihtary  biographer,  General  Whiting,  who 
says,  pp.  309-3 1 1  : 

Probably  no  officer  in  the  army,  at  that  time,  was  helci  in  higher 
estimation.  This  was  not  because  he  had  seen  much  actual  service,  for 
he  had  hardly  been  in  tiie  presence  of  tiie  enemy  before  the  day  on 
which  he  fell.  It  was  on  the  promise,  rather  than  the  fulfilment,  that 
the  public  mind  rested  his  character  for  boldness  and  enterprise  ;  and 
his  fitness  to  direct  and  control  men  had  been  determined,  to  an  extent 
that  warranted  much  confidence,  by  his  expeditions  in  the  north-west 
and  the  south-west.  He  had  there  given  such  proofs  of  those  qualities, 
as  established  a  reputation  in  advance.  He  had  exhibited,  moreover,  an 
indefatigable  activity  in  the  drill  of  his  regiment,  requiring  of  all  uiultr 
his  command  an  unwearied  devotion  to  duty,  and  an  exact  and  prompt 
obedience  to  orders. 

His  regiment  became  an  example  of  zeal,  discipline,  and  aptitude  in 
movements;  his  men  had  an  unbounded  belief  m  his  capacity,  and  his 
officers  looked  up  to  him  with  unusual  respect  and  affection.  Ik- 
inspired  that  confidence  in  all  under  his  orders,  which  is  almost  a  cer- 
tain evidence  that  it  is  luuritcd. 

At  tlie  opening  of  the  war  of  1812,  we  were  almost  without  any 
fixed  guide?  1  tactics  and  discipline.  The  standard  of  tiie  latter  part  of 
the  revolution,  and  of  subsequent  times,  "  Old  Steuben,"  which  had  been 
approved  by  Washington,  and  had  led  to  some  of  the  best  triumphs  of 
the  closing  years  of  that  glorious  period,  had  become  obsolete,  even 
before  any  f.ubstitute  was  provided.  Hence,  when  new  regiments 
came  into  service  by  scores  in  1812,  nothing  was  prescribed  for  regula- 
tion or  for  drill.  The  old  regiments  had  their  forms  and  customs,  wiiich 
preserved  in  them  the  aspect  of  regulars.  But  even  these  presented 
no  uniform  example.  Some  adopted  the  "  rineteen  manoeuvres  "  of  the 
English  ;  others,  the  ninety-and-nine  manoeuvres  of  the  French  ;  while  a 
few  adhered  to  old  Du:..L.d;  and  fewer  still  to  older  Steuben. 

Nothing  was  laid  down  by  the  proper  authority ;  therefore  all  ninii- 
ner  of  things  were  taken  up  without  any  authority  at  all.  Amid 
this  confusion,  or  wide  latitude  of  choice,  General  Pike,  though  brought 
up  in  the  old  school,  was  often  tempted,  by  his  ambitious  desire  for 
improvement,  to  run  into  novelties.  With  a  prescribed  rule,  he  wonlil 
have  been  the  most  steady  and  uncompromising  observer  of  it.  But, 
in  such  a  competition  for  beneficial  change,  he  most  naturally  believed 
himself  as  capable  as  ethers  of  changing  for  the  better. 

In  this  spirit  of  innovation,  the  15th  reginvit  iir  '-rwent  many 
changes,  and  exhibited,  even  m  times  when  nove;  .       .i.  ,.  singular:::-=s 


mmm 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


Ixix 


were  no  rarities,  perhaps  the  widest  departure  from  common  standards 
of  any  regiment  in  service.  Adopting  the  French  system  of  forming  in 
three  rani<s,  his  third  rank  was  armed  in  a  manner  peculiar  to  itself, 
having  short  guns,  being  the  ordinary  musiiet  cut  off  some  inches,  and 
long  pikes.  It  was  said,  by  the  wags  of  the  day,  that  his  own  name 
suggested  the  manner,  and  the  regiment  was  often  called  "  Pike's  regi- 
ment of  pikes." 

These  pikes  presented  a  formidable  appearance  on  drill 
and  dress  parade,  when  the  men  could  display  their  tactics 
with  the  precision  of  automata.  They  were  even  retained 
in  the  assault  of  Fort  York.  But  at  the  first  engagement 
alter  the  fall  of  General  Pike,  the  men  threw  them  away, 
together  with  the  cut-off  pieces,  and  picked  up  English 
muskets  to  fight  with.  The  experiment  of  putting  his  regi- 
ment on  snow-shoes  wh'ch  Pike  tried — doubtless  remem- 
bering their  serviceability  to  himself  and  his  company  on 
the  upper  Mississippi  in  the  winter  of  1805-6 — does  not 
seem  to  have  proven  any  more  lasting  or  decided  a  success. 

Colonel  Pike's  sword  was  stronger  than  his  pen,  as  we 
know;  but  he  could  sharpen  either  weapon  on  occasion,  as 
the  following  spirited  repulse  of  a  newspaper  attack  on  his 
regiment  will  show  :'* 

Camp  near  Plattsburg  [N.  Y.],  Oct  i2th,iSi3. 

However  incompatible  it  may  be  with  the  character  and  profession 
of  a  soldier,  to  enter  into  the  party  politics  of  the  d.a\  yet  wlien  .;ie 
honor  of  the  government,  the  corps  he  commands,  and  his  persoi.al 
fame  are  wantonly  attacked,  and  attempted  to  be  sacrificed  to  satiate  tiie 
nialignant  venom  of  party  purposes,  it  becomes  his  duty  as  a  man,  a 
patriot,  to  come  forward  and  boldly  contradict  the  base  calumniator. 
The  following  piece  "  from  the  Connecticut  Herald  "  and  republished  in 
the  New  York  Herald  of  October  3d,  is  not  only  calculated  to  bring  disre- 
pute on  tl.-*  government,  but  to   hold   up  our  army  as  a  mob  wanting 

'"Cited  from  Hezekiah  Niles'  Weekly  Register,  III.  No.  9,  i.p.  133,  134, 
Oct,  31st,  r8l2,  into  which  it  was  copied  from  the  Philadelphia  Aurora,  luaded 
"151I1  Regiment.  To  the  editor  of  the  Aurora."  I  'opy  literally  from  the 
Register,  but  with  modern  punctuation,  as  I  shall  i"  m  subsequent  extracts 
from  the  same  source. 


■fh 


A 


Ill 

1 

1 

li 

'i 

11  1 

Ixx 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


in  discipline  as  well  as  in  patriotism.  The  piece  alluded  to  is  as 
follows,  viz.: 

"  The  multiplied  proof  of  folly,  or  of  madness,  or  some  worse  cause, 
that  have  driven  the  nation  into  a  ruinous,  offensive  war,  are  accumu- 
lating with  every  day's  experience.  Barely  to  enumerate  the  evidence 
would  occupy  columns.  Two  or  three  facts  of  recent  occurrence,  which 
have  come  to  my  knowledge,  are  in  point  and  worthy  of  record.  It  is 
then  a  fact  (for  I  state  it  on  tlie  best  authority)  that  either  the  national 
treasury  is  so  miserably  empty,  or  the  proper  department  so  deficient  in 
duty,  that  the  army  i  .ider  General  Dearborn,  which  has  so  long  been 
idling  away  their  time  near  Albany,  was  not  only  unpaid,  but  unprovided 
with  the  common  necessaries  of  a  camp  ;  and  when,  a  few  days  since, 
a  part  of  these  troops  were  ordered  to  the  frontiers,  one  whole  regiment 
(Colonel  Pike's)  absolutely  refused,  and  deliberately  stacked  their  arms, 
declaring  they  would  not  move  until  paid.  In  ihis  refusal  they  were 
justified  by  their  colonel,  and  an  old  soldier,  who  admitted  they  ought 
not  to  march  unless  the  government  would  first  pay  the  arrears  due 
them.  It  fortunately  happened  that  Mr.  Secretary  Gallatin  was  then  at 
Albany,  and  on  learning  the  state  of  affairs  at  the  encampment,  he  bor- 
rowed $20,ooo  from  one  of  the  banks  on  his  private  credit,  by  which 
means  the  troops  were  paid,  and  cheerfully  fullowed  their  commander." 

In  contradiction  to  this  statement  it  will  be  sufficient  to  give  the 
following  facts : 

[Firstly] — That  the  regimental  paymaster  had  in  his  hands  funds  to 
pay  the  whole  regiment  up  to  the  31st.  And  [that]  within  three  days  of 
the  period  when  the  troops  moved,  three  companies  were  paid  previous 
to  the  march  and  the  balance  so  soon  as  the  troops  halted  a  sufficient 
time  to  give  the  officers  an  opportunity  to  adjust  the  rolls  and  prepare 
the  accounts  of  the  recruits. 

Secondly — That  those  funds  were  received  by  the  regimental  pay- 
master from  the  district  paymaster,  Mr.  Eakins,  who  was  then  at 
Albany,  and  not  from  Mr.  Gallatin  whom,  it  is  believed,  did  not  arrive  till 
after  the  regiment  moved  from  Greenbush. 

These  facts  can  be  corroborated  by  every  officer  of  the  1 5th  Infantry, 
who  one  and  all  deem  the  paragraph  published  in  the  Herald  a  base 
calumny,  a  direct  attack  on  their  honor  as  soldiers,  and  declare  that  tlie 
author,  whoever  he  may  be,  has  asserted  gross  untruths.  As  for  myself, 
I  have  had  the  honor  to  sen'e  in  the  army  from  the  rank  of  volunteer  to 
the  station  I  now  hold,  during  the  Administration  of  Gen.  Washing- 
ton, Mr.  Adams,  Mr.  Jefferson,  and  Mr.  Madison,  and  can  affirm  that  I 
have  known  some  troops  under  the  three  first  to  have  been  upward  of  a 
year  without  a  payment,  and  under  the  latter  for  eight  months.  This 
was  owing  to  the  dispersed  state  of  our  troops  on  the  western  frontiers. 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEDL'LON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


Ixxi 


But  never  did  1  hear  of  a  corps  shewing  a  disposition  to  refuse  to  do 
their  duty,  because  Ihey  had  not  received  their  pay ;  nor  do  I  believe  the 
American  army  has  been  disgraced  by  an  instance  of  the  kind  since  tiie 
Revolutionary  NVar.  But  asit  any  man  of  consitleration,  what  time  it 
requires  to  organize  an  army,  or  a  corps  of  new  recruits— if,  owing  to  the 
want  of  a  knowledge  of  the  officers  to  forms  of  returns,  accounts,  etc.,  it 
will  not  be  some  time  before  a  new  corps  can  be  as  well  equipt,  or 
appear  as  much  like  soldiers,  as  an  old  one  ?  Every  soldier  will  reply 
that  it  will  require  two  years  at  least  to  teach  both  officers  and  men  to 
reap  the  same  benefit  from  the  same  supplies  as  old  soldiers.  And 
although  at  this  time  the  15th  regiment  has  been  as  regularly  supplied 
as  any  other  corps  with  clothing,  pay,  arms,  and  accoutrements,  even  to 
watch  coats  to  protect  the  centinel  against  the  winter  storms,  yet  were 
there  an  old  regiment  laying  by  tlieir  side,  who  Iiad  received  the  same 
supplies,  they  would  most  indubitably  be  better  equipped  and  make 
themselves  more  comfortable,  having  the  saving  of  two  or  more  years' 
supplies  on  hand.  But  whether  ill  or  well  supplied,  the  soldiers  and 
officers  have  too  just  a  sense  of  the  duty  they  owe  their  country  and  their 
own  honor,  ever  t(j  refuse  to  march  against  the  enemy.  And  the  colonel 
begs  leave  to  assure  the  author  of  the  above  paragraph,  that  he  hopes  he 
will  forbear  any  future  attempt  to  injure  his  reputation  by  praising  an 
action  which,  if  true,  must  have  forever  tarnished  the  small  claim  he  now 
has  to  a  military  character. 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike, 

Colonel  ijl/i  U.  S.  Infantry. 

Colonel  Pike  seldom  had  occasion  to  make  proclamations 
of  ;i  politico-military  character.  But  one  such  which  he 
issued  while  he  was  in  command  of  a  district  may  be  here 
cited.  It  is  not  dated,  in  the  printed  form  before  me,  but 
was  no  doubt  given  out  in  Jan.,  1 81 3,  as  it  appears  in  Nilcs' 
Register  for  the  week  ending  Jan,  30th,  III.  No.  22, 
P-344: 


To  all  tvJiom  it  may  concern.  The  state  of  hostility  which  exists  be- 
tween the  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  makes  it  neces- 
sary that  tl>e  intercourse  which  may  take  place  between  this  country  and 
the  adjacent  pio\ince  of  Canada  should  be  regulated  on  the  principles 
which  govern  belligerent  nations.  I  have  had  it  in  charge  from  the  com- 
manding general,  Chandler  [John  Chandler,  of  New  Hampshire,  d.  1841] 
tliai  no  person  should  be  permitted  to  pass  in  or  out  of  Canada  without 
his  permission,  or,  in  his  absence,  the  permission  of  the  commandant  of 


Ixxit 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


Iii-v::;ii 


Mill 


the  district  of  Champlain.    Tiiis  order  has  been  communicated  to  the 
commanding  officer  on  the  lines,  and  will  be  strenuously  enforced. 

Some  members  of  the  community  have  been  found  so  void  of  all  sense 
of  honor,  love  of  country,  or  any  other  principle  which  has  governed  the 
virtuous  of  all  nations  and  ages,  as  to  hold  correspondence  with  and  give 
intelligence  to  our  enemies.  It  therefore  becomes  my  duty  to  put  tlie 
laws  in  full  force.  The  two  following  sections  of  the  rules  and  articles 
of  war,  which  are  equally  binding  on  the  citizen  and  the  soldier,  are  pub- 
lished for  the  information  of  the  public,  that  no  one  may  plead  ignorance, 
as  from  this  time  henceforward  they  shall  be  enforced  with  the  greatest 
severity. 

"  Art.  56,  Whosoever  shall  relieve  the  enemy  with  money,  victuals,  or 
ammunition,  or  shall  knowingly  harbor  or  protect  an  enemy  shall  suffer 
DEATH,  or  such  other  punishment  as  shall  be  ordered  by  the  sentence 
of  a  court-martial. 

"Art.  57.  Whosoever  shall  be  convicted  of  holding  correspondence 
with,  or  giving  intelligence  to,  the  enemy,  either  directly  or  indirectly, 
shall  suffer  DEATH,  or  such  other  punishment  as  shall  be  ordered  by  the 
sentence  of  a  court-martial. 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE,  Col.  15th  Regt.  Inf. 

Commanding  West  Lake  Champlain. 

During  the  winter  of  1812-13,  when  the  15th  regiment 
was  stationed  on  the  northern  frontier,  in  view  of  the  opera- 
tions to  be  undertaken  against  the  posts  of  the  enemy  on 
the  lakes,  great  confidence  in  this  well-discipHned  and  zeal- 
ous body  of  troops  was  felt  by  General  Henry  Dearborn, 
formerly  secretary  of  war,  and  then  the  senior  major-general 
of  the  army,  in  immediate  command.  As  we  have  just  seen, 
General  Pike  was  in  charge  of  a  military  district  on  Lake 
Champlain  ;  his  command  was  then  of  about  2,500  men, 
Various  desultory  demonstrations  against  the  enemy  had 
proved  futile,  in  some  cases  fatuous  and  disgraceful.  The 
War  Department  determined  upon  a  more  consistent  and 
apparently  feasible  plan  of  concerted  operations,  which  had 
in  view  the  reduction  of  all  the  British  posts  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  river  and  Lake  Ontario.  The  capture  of  Kings- 
ton (site  of  old  Fort  Frontenac)  was  a  measure  of  first  im- 
portance. The  garrison  was  supposed  to  be  small,  and  lulled 
in  a  sense  of  security,  owing  to  the  rigors  of  the  season  and 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY   PIKE.        Ixxiii 

the  numerical  insignificance  of  our  troops  at  Sackett's  Har- 
bor;  nor  was  Kingston  likely  to  be  re-enforced  from  below, 
as  the  British  forces  were  menaced  on  the  Lower  St.  Law- 
rence by  Pike's  troops  on  Lake  Champlain.  It  was  pro- 
posed to  transport  these  in  sleighs  to  the  foot  of  Lake 
Ontario  with  such  promptitude  that  the  movement  could 
not  be  counteracted.  General  Dearborn  also  proposed  to 
concentrate  other  forces  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  to  which  place 
his  headquarters  at  Albany  were  to  be  moved  at  once.  This 
was  in  Feb.,  1813.  But  while  these  measures  were  pending, 
Sir  George  Prevost,  Governor-General  of  the  Canadas,  pro- 
rogued the  Parliament  then  in  session,  and  moved  to  Kings- 
ton with  re-enforcements  for  that  place.  According  to 
General  Dearborn's  dispatches  of  Mar.  3d  from  Sackett's 
Harbor,  this  demonstration  seemed  so  alarming  that  opera- 
tions against  Kingston  were  suspended  in  favor  of  others 
which  had  regard  to  the  safety  of  Sackett's  Harbor ;  though 
it  appears  in  General  Armstrong's  History  of  the  War  that 
Sir  George  Prevost  had  executed  a  clever  ruse  with  few 
troops,  and  "countervailed  his  antagonist  only  by  dexterous 
and  well-timed  reports,"  Whiting's  Pike,  p.  290  seq. 

The  proposed  attack  on  Kingston  over  the  ice  having 
been  abandoned,  the  Secretary  of  War's  alternative  plan  of 
reducing  in  succession  the  several  posts  on  and  about  Lake 
Ontario  engaged  General  Dearborn's  attention.  The  Secre- 
tary indicated  the  order  in  which  the  successive  attacks 
were  to  be  made,  viz.:  Kingston  and  York  on  Lake  Ontario; 
George  and  Erie  on  the  Niagara  river.  But  this  sequence  was 
not  strictly  regarded  by  General  Dearborn,  who  determined 
to  attack  Kingston  last  instead  of  first;  considering  the  rota- 
tion of  the  assaults  to  be  of  minor  consequence,  in  view  of 
the  main  features  of  a  campaif,n  which  had  for  its  object 
'.he  reduction  of  all  the  posts  named  in  the  order  of  the 
Secretary.  The  general  commanding,  on  consultation  with 
Commodore  Isaac  Chaunccy,  concluded  to  make  York 
the  initial  point  of  attack ;  Gcirge  to  come  next,  and  then 
Kingston. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


z 


% 


1.0 


I.I 


:«.« 


u: 


140 


2.2 


2.0 


m 


'•25 1  '-^ -^ 

.4 6" 

► 

Photographic 

Sdences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  873-4503 


U.A 


~W[W^ 


Ixxiv        MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

The  prospect  held  out  by  this  plan  of  the  campaign  was  certainly 
very  promising.  It  had  ail  such  probabilities  in  its  favor  as  could  be 
commanded  by  those  who  control  only  one  side  of  the  current  of  events. 
The  force  that  could  and  would  be  brought  to  bear  on  each  point  of 
attack  was  ample,  and  left  as  little  to  hazard  as  prudence  would  suggest. 
The  plan  was  founded  on  the  best  principles  of  strategy,  and  highly 
creditable  to  the  generalship  which  dictated  it.  Had  it  been  carried  out 
with  the  spirit  and  perseverance  with  which  it  was  commenced,  there 
was  every  reasonable  prospect  of  a  successful  issue.  The  causes  of  its 
failure  were  obvious  :  delays,  without  proper  objects,  after  the  capture  of 
Fort  George  ;  and  a  change  of  command,  wholly  unnecessary  and  inex- 
pedient, which  led  to  the  waste  of  nearly  an  entire  season  of  inactivity 
(Whiting,  p.  297). 

As  noted  by  this  military  critic  and  historian,  General 
Dearborn  was  relieved  from  command  early  in  July,  18 13, 
his  successor  being  enjoined  to  rest  on  his  arms,  except  in 
the  event  of  certain  improbable  contingencies  which  never 
arose,  until  the  arrival  of  General  Wilkinson,  who  did  not 
reach  Fort  George  until  September,  or  resume  operations 
until  Oct.  1st;  so  that  "nearly  three  months  were  utterly 
wasted  by  a  body  of  4,000  troops." 

But  I  have  digressed  from  the  attack  on  Fort  York,  with 
which  alone  are  we  here  concerned. 

In  the  latter  part  of  April,  1813,  the  navigation  of  Lake 
Ontario  was  open,  and  no  molestation  was  apprehended,  as 
it  was  known  that  Sir  James  Yeo's  fleet  was  not  operative. 
Agreeably  with  the  plan  of  the  campaign  above  briefly 
noted,  therefore,  General  Dearborn  embarked  on  board  Com- 
modore Chauncey's  fleet,  with  about  1,700  troops,  under  the 
immediate  command  of  Brigadier-General  Pike,  Apr.  25th. 
On  the  morning  of  the  27th  the  fleet  reached  York  harbor, 
where  it  was  intended  to  debark  for  the  assault  on  F"ort 
York,  This  military  post  defended  the  place  which  had 
been  known  as  Toronto  till  1793,  and  was  then  called  York 
till  1834,  when  it  reiumed  its  aboriginal  name. 

The  true  signification  of  the  Iroquois  word  which  has 
settled  in  the  form  Toronto,   after  long  fluctuation  of  all 


1^! 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.         Ixxv 

its  vowels,  is  uncertain,  or  at  any  rate,  is  still  questioned. 
It  is  now  most  frequently  translated  '*  trees  in  the  water," 
or  by  somo  equivalent  phrase,  with  reference  to  the  for- 
merly wooded,  long,  low  spit  of  land  which  still  encompasses 
the  harbor  of  Ontario's  metropolis.     Irrespective  of  its  ety- 
mology, the  various  connotations  of  Toronto  in  successive 
Y  'storical  periods  are  to  be  carefully  discriminated.     If  we 
turn  to  old  maps,  we  see  that  the  present  Georgian  bay  of 
Lake  Huron  was  Toronto  bay;  the  present  Lake  Simcoe 
was  Toronto  lake ;  present  Severn  river  and  the  H umber 
were  each  of  them  Toronto   river.     In  the   seventeenth 
century,  Toronto  was  the  official  designation  of  a  region 
between  Lake  Simcoe  and  the  Georgian  bay — the  country 
of  the  Hurons,  on  the  large  peninsula  which  intervenes 
between  Lake  Huron  and  Lake  Ontario.    The  compara- 
tively narrow  neck  of  this  peninsula  offered,  by  means  of 
H umber  rivei  and  certain  portages,  a  convenient  way  to 
pass  between  these   two  great  lakes — it  was,  in  fact,  an 
Indian  thoroughfare.     The  mouth  of  the  Humber  conse- 
quently became  an  Indian  rendezvous,  and  the  name  of  the 
whole  region  thus  became  best  known  in  connection  with 
the  locality  of  the  present  city.     As  the  southern  terminus 
of  this  highway,  on  Lake  Ontario,  offered  an  eligible  site 
for  a  trading-post,  advantage  was  taken  of  such  an  oppor- 
tunity to  cut  off  trade  from  Chouagen  (Oswego)  by  planting 
the  original  establishment  of  the  Whites  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Humber.     Such  was  the  French  Fort  Rouill6.  built 
in   1749,  and   named    in    compliment    to  Antoine   Louis 
Rouill6,  Comte  de  Jouy,  then  colonial  minister.     This  post 
was  destroyed  in  1756,  to  prevent  it  from  falling  into  the 
hands  of  the  English.     It  became  better  known  as  Fort 
Toronto  than  it  had  been  by  its  proper  French  name,  and 
later  on  passed  into  history  as  Old  Fort  Toronto,  in  dis- 
tinction from  the  two  other  establishments  to  which  the 
name  was  successively  bequeathed.     Fort  Rouill6,  by  what- 
ever name  called,  was  never  lost  sight  of  entirely.    Lossing's 
Field  Book  of  the  War  of  18 12,  New  York,  1868,  p.  593,  has 


;*■'■■;:- 


^     i;  •■ 


Si  I 


v    (l#i 


I 


Ixxvi      MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

a  cut  which  shows  its  appearance  when  it  had  been  to  some 
extent  renovated  in  1812-13.  The  exact  site  is  now  marked 
by  a  monument,  lying  alongside  which  is  an  inscribed  stone. 
These  memorials  are  pointed  out  to  visitors,  on  the  lake 
shore,  in  the  southwest  corner  of  the  present  Exposition 
grounds,  on  the  western  side  of  the  city  of  Toronto.  After 
the  abandonment  of  old  Fort  Rouill^  the  region  round 
about  remained  for  nearly  half  a  century  a  wild  whose  soli- 
tude may  have  been  only  relieved  by  the  lodges  of  a  few 
Misisagas — those  Indians  of  Ojibwa  affinities  who  had 
become  members  of  the  Iroquois  confederation  in  1746, 
three  years  before  the  fort  was  built.  In  1791,  Upper  and 
Lower  Canada  were  instituted  by  parliamentary  measures 
which  Pitt  guided  to  success ;  the  latter  was  practically  the 
province  of  Quebec ;  the  former  became  the  province  of 
Ontario,  the  refuge  and  future  home  of  the  United  Empire 
Loyalists.  For  the  capital  of  Ontario,  a  site  was  to  be 
chosen  in  then  unbroken  wilds.  The  first  provincial  Parlia* 
ment  of  the  new  province  of  Upper  Canada  was  held  in 
May,  1793,  at  Newark,  the  present  town  of  Niagara,  where 
the  river  of  that  name  enters  Lake  Ontario.  But  this  place 
was  ineligible  ;  the  river  became  an  international  boundary ; 
the  guns  of  the  United  States  Fort  Niagara  could  be 
trained  upon  Newark  ;  and  in  August  of  the  same  year  the 
seat  of  government  of  the  new  province  was  transferred  to 
the  new  site  which  had  been  surveyed  to  that  end  by 
Bouchette,  and  selected  for  the  purpose  by  General  and 
Governor  John  Graves  Simcoe  (b.  Feb.  25th,  1752,  d.  Oct. 
6th,  1806).  To  this  place  Simcoe  gave  the  name  of  York, 
after  the  duke,  second  son  of  George  III.  The  evolution 
of  this  embryo  of  future  greatness  was  slow;  for  many 
years  "  Little  York,"  or  "  Muddy  York,"  as  it  was  styled 
by  some  in  derision,  had  but  a  few  hundred  inhabitants; 
its  maintenance  was  mainly  due  to  the  United  Loyalists 
already  mentioned.  In  April,  181 3,  the  works  by  which 
York  was  defended,  and  which  General  Pike  carried  by 
assault,  were  those  called   Fort  York:    later  they    were 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.       Ixxvii 


Known  as  Fort  Toronto,  or  "  the  Fort  at  Toronto."  The 
town  which  Simcoe  had  christened  York  did  not  resume 
the  original  designation  of  the  locality  till  1834,  when  it 
was  incorporated  as  the  city  of  Toronto. 

This  magnificent  metropolis,  which  so  admirably  illus- 
trates   the  effect  of  American  momentum   upon  English 
stability,  is  situated  upon  the  north  side  of  Lake  Ontario, 
39  miles  northeast  of  Hamilton  (which  occupies  the  fond 
du  lac)  and  310  miles  west-southwest  of  Montreal;  at  the 
observatory  the  position  is  calculated  to  be  in  latitude  43  ** 
39'  35"  N.  and   longitude   79°  23'  39"  W.  of  the  Greenwich 
meridian.    The  city  extends  westward  from  the  vicinity  of 
the  Don  in  the  direction  of  the  H  umber,  across  the  small 
stream  known  as  Garrison  creek.    It  thus  has  several  miles 
of  lake  front  on  the  south,  at  the  bay  or  harbor  of  Toronto, 
partly  shut  off  from  the  lake  by  low  land  which  was  once 
a  peninsula,  and  some  small  islands,  with  an  entrance  only 
from  the  west ;  but  the  peninsula  has  been  artificially  cut 
off  from  the  mainland.    At  its  end  stood  a  blockhouse,  in 
a  position  known  as  Gibraltar  point ;  another  blockhouse 
stood  at  the  mouth  of  the  Don,  on  the  left  or  east  bank  of 
that  river.    One  now  drives  a  few  blocks  from  any  hotel  in 
the  heart  of  the  city  to  "  old  "  Fort  York,  at  present  dis- 
mantled, but  very  much  in  evidence  still  of  the  scene  of 
General  Pike's  victory  and  mortal  hurt.    The  visitor  will  be 
warned  off  the  premises  by  the  functionary  who  has  these 
disjecta  membra  in  charge,  as  Lossing  had  been  before  I 
was ;  but  may  nevertheless  keep  on  the  main  street  or  road 
through  the  frowning  earthworks,  and  will  presently  find 
himself  on  Garrison  Common.     This  is  the  large  level  piece 
of  ground,  the  middle  of  the  lake  front  of  which  is  occu- 
pied  by  the   present   barracks,  or  "  new  fort."     At  points 
included  within  the  present   garrison   and   parade  ground 
were  the  positions  of  two  outer  defenses  of  old  Fort  York, 
respectively  called  at  that  time  the  Western  and  the  Half 
Moon  battery ;  these  were  the  first  and  second  obstacles 
for  Pike  to  surmount  in  advancing  upon  the  main  defenses 


f.^- 


I 


i 
if 

Mi; 


■M<k 


' 


I     i 


m 

ip^ 


Ixxviii       MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

of  York.     Crossing  Garrison  Common  in  a  few  minutes  we 
enter  the    Exposition  grounds,   at  the   further  corner  of 
which,  to  the  left,  and  directly  upon  the  lake  shore,  stand  the 
Rouill^  monument  and  inscribed  cairn  already  mentioned, 
together  with  a  historical  cabin ;  a  pier  juts  into  the  lake 
close  by  these  objects.    The  direct  distance  between  the 
Rouill6  monument  and  old  Fort  York  is  about  6,cxx)  feet- 
little  over  a  mile  by  the  road ;   the  present  barracks  are 
nearly  midway  between  those  two  places.     Old  Fort  York 
occupies  a  position  about   the  mouth  of  Garrison   creek, 
between  Front  Street  and  the  water's  edge,  at  the  foot  of 
Tecumseh  Street,  and  close  to  Queen's  Wharf,  in  the  midst 
of  railroad  tracks,  freight  houses,  and  depots.    The  maga- 
zine, which  was  exploded  at  the  cost  of  many  American  and 
some  British  lives,  stood   in  a  depression  at  or  near  the 
mouth  of  the  creek,  with  its  top   nearly  on  a  level  witli 
higher  ground  on  either  hand  ;  it  is  said  that  its  existence 
was  not  suspected  by  the  enemy.     It  was  a  comparatively 
large   structure   of    its  kind,    solidly  built  of  heavy  stone 
masonry,  and  contained  a  great  quantity  of  powder,  shot, 
and  shell.     All  the  positions  here  in  mention  may  be  in- 
spected in  a  leisurely  drive  of  an  hour.     Those  who  have 
not  been  over  the  ground,  or  have  not  a  city  map  at  hand, 
will  be  helped  to  a  clear  understanding  of  the  situation  by 
the  diagram  given  in  Lossing,  p.  590;  together  with  the 
sketches  there  given  of  York,  of  Fort  York,  of  the  maga- 
zine which  was  blown  up  by  General  Sheaffe's  order,  and  of 
the  Western  battery  whose  explosion  was  accidental.    Of 
the  latter,  the  picture  represents  the  remains  as  they  were 
in  i860. 

The  conflicting  accounts  of  uninformed,  unconsciously 
biased,  or  willfully  mendacious  writers  have  shrouded  in 
obscurity  the  clear  and  intelligible  relation  which  can  be 
given  of  the  battle  of  York.  Especially  have  the  two 
explosions  which  occurred  during  the  assault  been  con- 
founded and  falsified  in  l^story.  It  is  necessary,  at  the  out- 
set, to  dissociate  in  mind  these  two  catastrophes,  namely : 


ISi'Sr.;';' 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMEKV   PIKE.       Ixxix 

(i)  The  accidental  explosion  of  a  portable  magazine  at  the 
Western  battery  during  the  advance  of  the  Americans  upon 
the  main  works.  (2)  The  intentional  explosion  of  the  fixed 
magazine  during  the  retreat  of  the  British  from  the  main 
works.  The  latter  was  somewhat  premature,  owing  to  over- 
much zeal  of  the  soldier  who  had  been  ordered  to  fire  the 
train  ;  but  it  was  premeditated. 

A  diligent  comparison  of  many  different  descriptions  of 
the  battle  of  York  has  satisfied  me  that  the  account  in 
Whiting,  Pike's  most  formal  biographer,  leaves  much  to  be 
desired,  and  that  Lossing's  relation  is  decidedly  preferable 
in  most  particulars.  The  latter  gives,  on  the  whole,  the 
clearest  and  truest  picture  which  any  modern  historian  has 
painted.  Lossing  consulted  the  official  reports  of  the 
commanders,  both  British  and  American ;  the  accounts 
given  by  Thompson,  Perkins,  James,  Auchinleck,  Arm- 
strong, Christy,  Ingerjoll,  and  others ;  Whiting's  Biography 
of  Pike  ;  Hough's  County  histories  ;  Roger's  Canadian  His- 
tory ;  Smith's  Canada ;  Cooper's  Naval  History ;  Niles' 
Register ;  the  Portfolio ;  the  Analectic  Magazine ;  he  had 
some  manuscripts  of  actors  in  the  scene,  besides  various 
verbal  relations ;  and  he  went  over  the  ground  in  person. 
In  the  following  sketch  I  shall  lean  more  heavily  upon 
Lossing  than  upon  Whiting;  but  for  numerous  particulars 
shall  refer  back  of  both  to  contemporaneous  records  and 
official  reports,  on  both  sides.  I  shall  also  adduce  a  certain 
obscure  author,  P.  Finan,  who  is  among  those  who  wit- 
nessed the  fight,  and  who  describes  what  he  saw  in  his 
little-known  Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  Quebec  in  the  Year 
1825,  with  Recollections  of  Canada  during  the  late  American 
War  in  the  Years  18 12- 13,  Newry,  printed  by  Alexander 
Peacock,  1828.  H,  A.  Fay's  Collection  of  Official  Documents, 
etc.,  I  vol.,  8vo,  New  York,  18 17,  gives  General  Dearborn's 
and  Commodore  Chauncey's  reports  to  the  Secretary  of 
War  and  of  the  Navy,  respectively,  and  the  terms  of  the 
capitulation  after  the  capture.  Brannan's  Official  Letters, 
etc.,  1  vol.,  8vo,  Washington,  1823,  gives  in  full  Pike's  vig- 


ifp  ''^ 

^ 

' 

. 

m 


\m 


Ixxx        MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


orous  and  rigorous  brigade  order,  pp.  144- 146  ;  the  reports 
said  of  Dearborn  and  of  Chauncey;  and  various  other 
items.  These  and  many  other  materials  are  also  contained 
in  earlier  form  in  Niles*  Weekly  Register,  IV.  Mar.-Sept., 
181 3.  What  here  follows  is  derived  mainly  from  the 
sources  I  have  thus  indicated,  but  also  includes  a  certified 
copy  of  the  most  important  one  of  the  original  Sheaffe  docu- 
ments in  the  Archives  of  Ontario  at  Ottawa. 

General  Pike's  brigade  order  for  the  attack  on  York 
appears  as  follows  in  Niles'  Register,  IV.   pp.  229,  230: 

Sackett's  Harbor,  April  25, 181 3. 
Brigade  Order.  When  the  debarkation  shall  take  place  on  the 
enemy's  shore,  Major  Forsyth's  light  troops,  formed  in  four  platoons, 
shall  be  first  landed.  They  will  advance  a  small  distance  from  the  shore, 
and  form  the  chain  to  cover  the  landing  of  the  troops.  They  will  not 
fire  unless  they  discover  the  approach  of  a  body  of  the  enemy,  but  will 
make  prisoners  of  every  person  who  may  be  passing,  and  send  them  to 
the  general.  They  will  be  followed  by  the  regimental  platoons  of  the 
first  brigade,  with  two  pieces  of  Brooks'  artillery,  one  en  the  right  and 
one  on  the  left  flank,  covered  by  their  musketry,  and  the  small  detach- 
ments of  riflemen  of  the  15th  and  i6th  Infantry.  Then  will  be  landed 
the  three  platoons  of  the  reserve  of  the  first  brigade,  under  Major  Swan." 
Then  Major  Eustis,  with  his  train  of  artillery,  covered  by  his  own 
musketry.  Then  Colonel  M'Clure's  volunteers,  in  four  platoons,  followed 
by  the  21st  regiment,  in  six  platoons.  When  the  troops  shall  move  in 
column,  eithe  to  meet  the  enemy  or  take  a  position,  it  will  be  in  the  fol- 
lowing order,  viz.:  First,  Forsyth's  riflemen,  with  proper  front  and  flank 
guards  ;  the  regiments  of  the  first  brigade,  with  their  pieces ;  then  three 
platoons  of  reserve;  Major  Eustis'  train  of  artillery;  volunteer  corps; 
2 1  St  regiment ;  each  corps  sending  out  proper  flank  guards.    When  the 

"  William  Swan  appears  in  Heitman's  Register  as  major  of  the  "  3  inf  "  in 
1813.  On  the  supposition  that  this  is  a  typographical  error  for  Sist  Infantry, 
which  was  engaged  at  York,  the  record  may  be  given  as  that  of  the  above- 
named  Major  Swan :  Of  Massachusetts,  appointed  from  that  State  a  first  lieuten- 
ant of  the  15th  Infantry  Jan.  8th,  1799  ;  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1800 ; 
reappointed  first  lieutenant  in  the  ist  Infantry  Feb.  i6th,  1801  ;  captain  Nov. 
15th,  1807  ;  deputy-quartermaster-general  April  3d,  1813  ;  major  "3  inf  "  /.  c 
Sist  Infantry,  Jan.  soth,  1813  ;  colonel  and  quartermaster-general  from  Aug. 
7th,  1813,  to  June  gth,  1814  ;  lieutenant-colonel  20th  Infantry  March  13th,  1814 ; 
transferred  to  the  4th  Infantry  Apr.  30th,  1814  ;  resigned  June  9th,  1814  ;  died 
June  I3th,  1873. 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE.       Ixxxi 


enemy  shall  be  discovered  in  front,  the  riflemen  will  form  the  chain,  and 
maintain  their  ground  until  they  have  the  signal  (the  preparative)  or 
receive  orders  to  retire,  at  which  they  will  retreat  with  the  greatest 
velocity,  and  form  equally  on  the  two  flanks  of  the  regiments  of  the  first 
brigade,  and  then  renew  their  fire.  The  three  reserve  platoons  of  this 
line  under  the  orders  of  Major  Swan,  loo  yards  in  the  rear  of  the  colors, 
ready  to  support  any  part  which  may  show  an  unsteady  countenance. 
Major  Eustis  and  his  train  will  form  in  the  rear  of  this  reserve,  ready 
to  act  where  circumstances  may  dictate. 

The  second  line  will  be  composed  of  the  2ist  Infantry  in  six  platoons, 
flanked  by  Colonel  M'Clure's  volunteers,  equally  divided  as  light  troops. 
The  whole  under  the  orders  of  Colonel  Ripley.'* 

It  is  expected  that  every  corps  will  be  mindful  of  the  honor  of  the 
American  arms,  and  the  disgraces  which  have  recently  tarnished  our 
arms ;  and  endeavor,  by  a  cool  and  determined  discharge  of  their  duty, 
to  support  the  one  and  wipe  off  the  other.  The  riflemen  in  front  will 
maintain  their  ground  at  all  hazards,  until  ordered  to  retire,  as  will  every 
corps  of  the  army.  With  an  assurance  of  being  duly  supported,  should 
the  commanding  general  find  it  prudent  to  withdraw  the  front  line,  he 
will  give  orders  to  retire  by  the  heads  of  platoons,  covered  by  the  rifle- 
men ;  and  the  second  line  will  advance  by  the  heads  of  platoons,  pass 
the  intervals,  and  form  the  line,  call  in  the  light  troops,  and  renew  the 
action.  But  the  general  may  find  it  proper  to  bring  up  the  second  line 
on  one  or  both  flanks,  to  charge  in  columns,  or  perform  a  variety  of 
manoeuvres  which  it  would  be  impossible  to  foresee.  But  as  a  general 
rule,  whatever  may  be  the  directions  of  lines  at  the  commencement  of 
the  action,  the  corps  will  form  as  before  directed.  If  they  then  advance 
in  line,  it  may  be  in  parallel  eschelons  of  platoons,  or  otherwise,  as  the 
ground  or  circumstances  may  dictate. 

No  man  will  load  until  ordered,  except  the  light  troops  in  front  until 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  enemy,  and  then  charge  bayonets ;  thus 
letting  the  enemy  see  that  we  can  meet  them  in  their  own  weapons.  Any 
man  firing  or  quitting  his  post  without  orders,  must  be  put  to  instant 
death,  as  an  example  may  be  necessary.  Platoon  officers  will  pay  the 
greatest  attention  to  the  coolness  and  aim  of  their  men  in  the  fire  ;  their 


X 

;  ■  I ' 


'*Eleazar  Wheelock  Ripley,  b.  Hanover,  N.  H,,  Apr.  15th,  1782,  appointed 
from  Massachusetts  lieutenant-colonel  21st  Infantry  Mar.  12th,  1812  ;  colonel 
of  that  regiment  Mar.  I2th,  1813 ;  brigadier-general  Apr.  15th,  1814  ;  and 
brevet  major-general  July  25th,  1814,  for  gallantry  at  the  battle  of  Niagara 
Falls.  On  the  3d  of  November,  1814,  he  was  by  resolution  of  Congress  given 
a  gold  medal  in  testimony  of  appreciation  of  his  conduct  at  the  battles  of  Chip- 
pewa, Niagara,  and  Erie.  He  resigned  Feb.  ist,  1820;  was  Democratic  member 
of  Congress  from  Louisiana  1835-39 :  and  d.  in  that  State  Mar.  2d,  1839. 


1  t 


I 


I'*    -111 


ti 


6 


IxXXii        MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

regularity  and  dressing  in  the  charge.  Courage  and  bravery  in  the  iield 
<lo  not  more  distinguish  the  soldier  than  humanity  after  victory ;  aiut 
whatever  examples  the  savage  allies  of  our  enemies  may  have  given  us, 
the  general  contidently  hopes  that  the  blood  of  an  unresisting  or  yielding 
enemy  will  never  stain  the  weapons  of  the  soldiers  of  his  column. 

The  unoffending  citizens  of  Can<ida  are  many  of  them  our  own 
countrymen,  and  the  poor  Canadians  have  been  forced  into  the  war. 
Their  property  must  therefore  be  held  sacred,  and  any  soldier  who  shall 
so  far  neglect  the  honor  of  his  profession  as  to  be  guilty  of  plundering 
tlie  inhabitants,  shall,  if  convicted,  be  punished  with  death.  But  the 
commanding  general  assures  the  iroops  that,  should  they  capture  a  large 
quantity  of  public  stores,  he  will  use  his  best  endeavors  to  procure  them 
a  reward  from  his  government. 

This  order  shall  be  read  at  the  head  of  each  corps  and  every  field 
officer  shall  carry  a  copy,  in  order  that  he  may  at  any  moment  refer  to 
it ;  and  give  explanations  to  his  subordinates. 

All  those  found  in  arms  in  the  enemy's  country,  shall  be  treated  as 
enemies;  but  those  who  are  peaceably  following  the  pursuits  of  their 
various  avocations,  friends — and  their  property  respected. 

By  order  of  Brigadier-general  Z.  M.  PiKE. 
•    Charles  G.  Jones,'* 

Assistant  aid-de-camp. 

Of  quite  another  character  than  the  foregoing  order  is  the 
next  word  which  reaches  us  from  General  Pike — probably 
from  the  last  letter  he  ever  wrote.  It  is  always  the  soldier, 
but  now  the  son  and  not  the  officer  who  speaks,  in  this 
letter  addressed  to  his  father.  The  extract  is  undated  and 
unsigned,  but  was  penned  at  Brownsville,  near  Sackett's 
Harbor,  on  the  day  before  the  expedition  sailed  from  the 
latter  place.  I  cite  from  Niles'  Register  of  Saturday,  July 
loth,  1813,  p.  304,  these  affecting  passages: 

"  I  embark  to-morrow  in  the  fleet  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  at 
the  head  of  a  column  of  1,500  choice  troops,  on  a  secret 
expedition.  If  success  attends  my  steps,  honor  and  glory 
await  my  name — if  defeat,  still  shall  it  be  said  we  died  like 
brave  men,  and  conferred  honor,  even  in  death,  on  the 
American  name. 

"  Should  I  be  the  happy  mortal  destined  to  turn  the 

'•  Of  New  York,  appointed  a  captain  of  the  29th  Infantry  Mar.  24th,  1813; 
resigned  Mar.  14th,  18 14. 


III.         * 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY   PIKE.        Ixxxiit 


scale  of  war,  will  you  not  rejoice,  O  my  father?  May 
Heaven  be  propitious,  and  smile  on  the  cause  of  my 
country.  But  if  we  are  destined  to  fall,  may  my  fall  be 
like  Wolfe's — to  sleep  in  the  arms  (.i  victory." 

His  aspiration  was  answered,  for  he  turned  the  scale  of 
war ;  his  dream  of  glory  came  true,  for  he  fell  asleep,  like 
Wolfe,  in  the  arms  of  victory ! 

Commodore  Isaac  Chauncey's  fleet,  which  conveyed  the 
American  troops  from  Sackett's  Harbor  to  York,  consisted 
of  14  vessels:  the  Madison,  flagship;  Oneida,  Fair  Ameri- 
can, Hamilton,  Governor  Tompkins,  Conquest,  Asp,  Pert, 
Julia,  Growler,  Ontario,  Scourge,  Lady  of  the  Lake,  and 
the  transport  Raven. 

On  that  fateful  27th  of  April,  1 81 3,  about  seven  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  when  this  fleet  had  reached  York,  the  inten- 
tion was  to  land  the  troops  at  old  Fort  Rouill^,  whence  the 
advance  to  the  assault  of  Fort  York  would  have  been  only 
about  a  mile,  along  the  lake  front,  over  the  level  ground  of 
present  Garrison  Common.  But  a  strong  east  wind  drove 
the  boats  "  a  considerable  distance "  leeward,  to  some 
wooded  point  in  the  direction  of  the  H umber.  Exactly 
how  far  this  was  does  not  appear;  but  there  is  evidence 
that  it  was  not  more  than  some  fraction  of  a  mile — probably 
not  as  far  west  of  Fort  Rouill^  as  the  latter  was  west  of 
Fort  York.  General  Dearborn  says,  "about  a  mile  and 
a  half  "  from  Fort  York,  which  would  be  about  half  a  mile 
west  of  Fort  Rouill6  ;  and  the  place  called  Grenadier  Point 
has  been  named  in  this  connection.  Doubtless  the  whole 
of  the  troops  were  not  landed  at  precisely  the  same  spot. 
General  Dearborn  remained  with  the  fleet,  which  was  ta 
bombard  York  after  landing  the  troops  under  the  command 
of  General  Pike.  The  former's  official  report  to  Hon.  John 
Armstrong,  Secretary  of  War,  dated  Headquarters,  York, 
Upper  Canada,  Apr.  28th,  181 3,  includes  this  passage 
(Brannan,  p.  149): 

I  had  been  induced  to  confide  the  immediate  command  of  the  troops 
in  action  to  General  Pike,  from  a  conviction  that  he  fully  expected  it,  and 


ifil 

■  !■; 


■  '11' 


Ixxxiv       MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

would  be  much  mortified  at  being  deprived  of  the  honor,  which  he  highly 
apppreciated. 

As  rendered  in  Niles'  Register,  IV.  p.  179,  it  is  to  the 
same  effect,  but  somewhat  differently  worded : 

To  the  general  I  had  been  induced  to  confide  the  immediate  attaclc. 
from  a  knowledge  that  it  was  his  wish  and  that  he  wculd  have  been 
mortified  had  it  not  been  given  to  him. 

We  will  hear  from  Pike  himself  once  more  before  he  falls. 
It  is  before  any  landing  has  been  effected.  Forsyth's  boats 
are  nearing  the  shore ;  they  are  fired  upon  from  the  woods, 
but  have  not  yet  answered  a  shot.  Pike  is  standing  on  the 
deck  of  the  flagship,  surrounded  by  his  staff,  straining  his 
eager  eyes  impatiently  at  the  boats,  which  he  sees  have  been 
driven  beyond  the  intended  point  of  debarkation.  " '  By 
God !  I  can't  stay  here  any  longer ! '  and  addressing  himself 
to  his  staff — *  Come,  jump  into  the  boat ! '  which  we  imme- 
di.ttely  did,  the  commodore  having  reserved  a  boat  specially 
for  him  and  his  suite ;  the  little  coxswain  was  ordered  im- 
mediately to  steer  for  the  middle  of  the  fray,  and  the  balls 
whistled  gloriously  around;  probably  their  number  was 
owing  to  seeing  so  many  officers  in  one  boat;  but  we 
laughed  at  their  clumsy  efforts  as  we  pressed  forward  with 
well-pulled  oars."  " 

The  first  troops  which  effected  a  landing  were  Forsyth's  " 

**>  From  the  narrative  of  Lieutenant  Fraser,  one  of  Pike's  staff  officers,  who 
was  wounded  by  his  side  ;  it  was  published  in  the  Philadelphia  Aurora,  and 
copied  into  Niles'  Register  of  Saturday,  June  5th,  1813,  IV.  pp,  335,  336,  from 
which  I  quote. 

"  Benjamin  Forsyth  of  North  Carolina  originally  entered  the  army  as  a 
second  lieutenant  of  the  6th  Infantry  Apr.  34th,  1800,  but  was  very  soon  hon- 
orably discharged.  He  was  reappointed  as  a  captain  of  Rifles  July  1st,  1808; 
became  major  Jan.  20th,  1813,  and  was  brcvetted  lieutenant-colonel  for  dis- 
tinguished services  Feb.  6th,  1813.  He  was  killed  in  action  at  Odelltown, 
N.  Y.,  June  28th,  1814.  "  The  death  of  this  officer  was  in  harmony  with  his 
character.  After  the  taking  of  York,  finding  that  the  official  account  of  the 
action  gave  him  little  credit  for  the  conspicuous  share  he  had  in  it,  he  became 
sick  and  inactive,  and  kept  himself  in  sullen  seclusion  among  his  own  men, 
apparently  determined  that  no  services  should  be  rendered,  either  by  himself  or 
his  men,  since  they  were  so  inadequately  rewarded,  or  so  unduly  estimated.    He 


mi 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.       Ixxxv 

Rifles,  conveyed  in  two  boats.  Their  debarkation  was 
promptly  resisted  by  a  choice  body  of  light  troops  from 
Fort  York,  consisting  of  a  company  of  Glengary  Fencibles, 
with  some  Indians,  under  Major  Givens.  From  an  advan- 
tageous position  in  the  woods  which  had  been  taken  up,  the 
enemy  opened  a  galling  fire  as  our  troops  left  the  boats. 
Concerning  this  opening  engagement  I  cite  Whiting,  pp. 
300-303 : 

The  riflemen  were  formed  on  the  bank  as  promptly  as  possible,  when 
the  boats  returned  to  the  fleet  for  other  troops.  In  the  meantime,  this 
gallant  little  band,  assisted  by  some  few  other  troops  that  were  thrown 
on  shore  in  other  boats,  sustained  the  brunt  of  the  combat.  The 
numbers  in  this  initial  struggle  were  about  equal,  and  it  became  a  fair 
and  close  fight,  to  be  turned  either  w.i^  .  a-enforce:Tients  should  happen 
to  arrive.  The  British  light  troops  were  choice  men,  and  commanded 
by  a  brave  officer. 

Forsyth's  men  were  undisciplined,  but  had  seen  some  desultory  service 
on  the  Ogdensburg  fron'.ier,  and  had  unbounded  confidence  in  their 
leader,  who  was  rather  an  extraordinary  man,  and  regarded  as  a  most 
promising  partisan  officer.  He  had  peculiar  notions  as  to  the  manner 
of  training  men.  The  common  rules  of  discipline  were  looked  upon  by 
him  with  the  utmost  contempt.  All  he  seemed  to  require  of  those  under 
him  was,  that  they  should  be  good  marksmen,  and  ready  to  follow 
him.  .  .  . 

At  the  time  of  this  expedition.  Major  Forsyth  was  a  fat  man,  probably 
weighing  some  200  pounds.  The  uniform  of  his  men  was  green,  and,  at 
the  time  he  landed,  he  wore  a  broad-skirted  coat  of  that  color,  which  was 
unbuttoned  and  thrown  back,  displaying  a  white  vest  spread  over  his 
ample  chest,  that  afforded  a  mark  for  an  enemy  equal  to  the  chalked  circle 
of  a  common  infantry  target.  He  had  on  his  head  a  broad-brimmed 
black  hat.  Soon  after  the  landing,  the  armorer  of  his  regiment,  a 
favorite  of  both  himself  and  his  men,  was  killed.    The  skill  of  this  man 

did  little  or  nothing  the  residue  of  that  campaign.  Having  been  promoted  before 
the  following  campaign,  he,  on  the  Champlain  frontier,  was  put  in  ccmmand  of 
an  advanced  party,  which  was  to  engage  the  enemy  and  then  fall  back,  in  01  der  to 
draw  him  into  an  ambush.  Lieutenant-Colonel  Forsyth  was  the  last  man  who 
was  likely  to  fulfill  such  a  plan.  As  soon  as  he  opened  the  fight  with  the 
enemy,  his  instructions  to  fall  back  were  either  forgotten  or  ignored.  Hi.^ 
spirit  could  not  brook  a  retreat,  even  for  an  ultimate  advantage.  He  rushed  on 
and  fell,  and  lost,  with  his  life,  all  the  success  that  would  probably  have  fol- 
lowed more  prudence,  or  strict  obedience  to  orders."    (Whiting,  /.  c) 


\% 


■< 


Ixxxvi     MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

was  such  as  enabled  him  to  give  the  rifle  its  most  deadly  character; 
and  the  efficiency  of  the  regiment  was  consequently  supposed,  both  by 
officers  and  men,  to  depend  much  upon  him.  When  he  fell,  every  man 
felt  as  if  a  deed  had  been  perpetrated  by  the  enemy  that  demanded 
revenge ;  and  the  whole  detachment,  from  Major  Forsyth  down  to  the 
most  indifferent  marksman,  entered  into  the  combat  with  a  fierce  spirit  of 
retaliation  that,  no  doubt,  contributed  much  to  the  obstinacy  of  the  stand 
they  made,  and  the  unusual  loss  sustained  by  the  enemy  immediately 
opposed  to  them. 

Taking  to  the  woods  in  which  the  British  light  troops  were  posted,  the 
riflemen,  after  their  loose  manner,  placed  themselves  behind  trees,  and 
thus  carried  on  the  contest  with  their  more  concentrated,  better  ordered, 
and,  therefore,  more  exposed  opponents.  It  is  said  that  Major  Forsyth 
continued,  throughout  the  action,  to  move  to  and  fro,  armed  only  with  a 
light  sword,  immediately  in  the  rear  of  his  men,  pointing  out  with  an 
earnest  solemnity  that  partook  both  of  sorrow  and  anger,  to  one  rifleman 
and  another,  some  one  of  the  enemy,  and  exclaiming  that  he  was  the 
man  who  had  killed  the  favorite  armorer.  This  suggestion  was  almost 
sure  to  be  fatal  to  the  enemy  thus  specially  branded  with  the  guilt  of 
having  taken  off  the  best  man  of  the  corps.  The  British  light  troops 
were  nearly  all  left  on  the  ground  they  first  occupied,  being  too  strong  to 
retreat  while  the  landing  was  only  partially  made,  and  too  much  exposed 
to  stand  before  such  expertness  of  aim,  rendered  so  fierce  and  unyielding 
by  one  of  the  chance  shots  of  an  opening  fight. 

The  force  under  Forsyth  was  soon  supported  by  Major 
King's"  battalion  of  the  15th  Infantry,  consisting  of  three 
companies — Captain  John  Scott's,  Captain  White  Youngs', 
and  that  of  Captain  John  Lambert  Hoppock,  who  had  been 
mortally  wounded  in  the  boats.  When  General  Pike  had 
landed  with  the  whole  body  of  his  troops,  the  attacking 

"  William  King  of  Delaware  was  appointed  from  Marj'land  a  second  lieuten- 
ant of  the  5th  Infantry  May  3d,  1808  ;  became  first  lieutenant  Sept.  30th,  1810; 
captain,  15th  Infantry,  July  2d,  1812  ;  major,  Mar,  3d,  1813.  He  was  made 
colonel  of  the  3d  Rifles  Feb.  2ist,  1814  ;  was  transferred  to  the  4th  Infantry  May 
17th,  1815  ;  honorably  discharged  June  1st,  1821  ;  and  died  Jan.  1st,  1826. 

Two  officers  named  John  Scott,  both  of  New  Jersey,  both  of  the  15th  Infantry, 
ai.>pear  in  Heitman's  Register.  The  captain  above  said  was  appointed  as  such 
Mar.  I2th,  1812,  resigned  Aug.  15th,  1813,  and  died  in  1839.  The  other  John 
Scott  did  not  rise  above  the  rank  of  a  subaltern.  Possibly  a  single  record  in  this 
case  appears  as  those  of  two  different  persons.  For  Captain  White  Youngs,  sco 
note  *''  p.  cix.     Captain  Hoppock's  name  appears  as  "  Hopsock"  in  some  places. 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.     Ixxxvii 

force  was  represented  by  the  6th,  15th,  i6th,  and  21st  In- 
fantry, Colonel  Maclure's  3d  regiment  of  New  York  Militia, 
and  several  pieces  of  artillery. 

At  the  first  sharp  collision,  as  we  have  seen,  the  British 
were  defeated,  not  without  much  loss  on  both  sides.  On 
their  retreat,  the  bugles  sounded  the  advance,  and  the 
troops  pressed  forward  along  the  lake  shore  toward  Fort 
York,  which  was  meanwhile  bombarded  from  the  fleet. 
One  of  General  Pike's  staff  says :  ''  Our  march  was  by  the 
lake  road  in  sections,  but  the  route  was  so  much  intersected 
by  streams  and  rivulets,  the  bridges  over  which  had  been 
destroyed  by  the  enemy  as  they  retreated,  that  we  were 
considerably  retarded  in  our  progress.  We  collected  logs, 
and  by  severe  efforts  at  length  contrived  to  pass  over  one 
field  piece  and  a  howitzer,  which  were  placed  at  the  head  of 
our  column,  in  charge  of  Captain  Fanning"  of  the  3d  Artil- 
lery ;  and  thus  we  proceeded  through  a  spacious  wood,  as 
we  emerged  from  which  we  were  saluted  by  a  battery  of  24- 
pounders.  The  general  then  ordered  one  of  his  aids  (Fraser) 
-nd  a  sergeant  to  proceed  to  the  right  of  the  battery,  in 
order  to  discover  how  many  men  were  in  the  works.  We 
did  so,  and  reported  to  him  the  number,  and  that  they  were 
spiking  their  own  guns.  The  general  immediately  ordered 
Captain  Walworth  of  the  16th  [sic]  with  his  company  of 
grenadiers  to  make  the  assault.  Walworth  gallantly  ordered 
his  men  to  trail  arms  and  advance  at  the  accelerated  pace ; 
but  at  the  moment  when  they  were  ordered  to  recover  and 
charge  the  enemy,  the  enemy  broke  in  the  utmost  confusion, 

''  'Mexander  C.W.  Fanning  of  Massachusetts  was  appointed  to  a  cadetship  at 
West  Point  April  14th,  1809  ;  he  was  made  a  first  lieutenant  of  the  3d  Artillery 
Mar.  12th,  1812,  and  promoted  to  be  a  captain  Mar.  13th,  1813  ;  transferred  to 
the  corps  of  artillery  May  12th,  1814,  and  to  the  ad  Artillery  June  2d,  1821  ; 
became  major  of  the  4th  Artillery  Nov.  3d,  1832,  and  lieutenant-colonel  Sept. 
i6th,  1838  ;  he  was  transferred  to  the  2d  Artillery  May  24th,  1841.  On  Aug. 
15th,  1814,  he  was  brevetted  major  for  gallant  conduct  at  Fort  Erie  ;  on  Aug. 
15th,  1824,  he  was  brevetted  lieutenant-colonel  for  10  years'  faithful  service  in 
one  grade  ;  and  on  Dec.  31st,  1834,  he  was  brevetted  colonel  for  gallant  and 
meritorious  conduct  in  battle  near  the  Withlachoochee  under  General  Clinch 
and  in  defending  Fort  Mellon,  Florida  ;  he  died  Aug.  i8th,  1846. 


i'l 


Ixxxviii      MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

leaving  several  men  wounded  on  the  ground  which  they 
abandoned." 

This  first  serious  obstacle  to  Pike's  advance  was  the 
Western  battery  already  described,  p.  Ixvii,  where  the  ex- 
plosion occurred  before  Captain  Walworth  "  could  carry  out 
the  order  to  charge  this  work.  This  accident  caused  some 
loss  of  life  to  the  defenders,  but  none  to  the  assaulters. 
Lossing  has,  concerning  it : 

The  wooden  magazine  of  the  battery,  that  had  been  carelessly  left 
open,  blew  up,  killing  some  of  the  men,  and  seriously  damaging  the  de- 
fences. The  dismayed  enemy  spiked  their  cannon  and  fled  to  the  next, 
or  Half  Moon  battery.  Walworth  pressed  forward,  when  that,  too,  was 
abandoned,  and  he  found  nothing  within  but  spiked  cannon.  Sheaffe 
and  his  little  army,  deserted  by  the  Indians,  fled  to  the  garrison  near  the 
governor's  house,  and  there  opened  fire  upon  the  Americans.  Pike 
ordered  his  troops  to  halt,  and  he  flat  upon  the  grass,  while  Major 
Eustis,''  with  his  artillery  battery,  moved  to  the  front,  and  soon  silenced 
the  great  guns  of  the  enemy. 

Finan  is  more  circumstantial  in  describing  the  casualty 
which  did  so  much  to  decide  the  fate  of  the  day  : 

While  this  part  of  our  force  was  contending  with  the  enemy  in  the 
woods,  an  unfortunate  accident  occurred  in  the  battery  opposed  to  the 
fleet  which  proved  a  death  blow  to  the  little  hope  that  might  have  been 
entertained  of  a  successful  issue  to  the  proceedings  of  the  day.  A  gun 
was  aimed  at  one  of  the  vessels,  and  the  officers,  desirous  of  seeing  if  the 
ball  would  take  effect,  ascended  the  bastion :  In  the  meantime  the  artil- 
lerj-man,  waiting  for  the  word  of  command  to  fire,  held  the  match  behind 
him,  as  is  usual  under  such  circumstances ;  and  the  traveling  magazine, 
a  large  wooden  chest,  containing  cartridges  for  the  great  guns,  being 

'*  John  Walworth  of  New  York  was  appointed  from  that  State  first  lieutenant 
of  the  6th  (sic — Heitraan)  Infantry  Dec.  12th,  1808  ;  was  made  captain  Jan.  1st, 
1810  ;  major  of  the  33d  Infantry  May  1st,  1814,  and  honorably  discharged 
June  15th,  1815. 

^*  Abram  Eustis  of  Virginia,  appointed  from  Massachusetts  a  captain  of  light 
artillery  May  3d,  1808,  became  major  of  the  same  Mar.  15th,  1810.  He  was 
transferred  to  the  4th  Artillery  June  1st,  1821 ;  became  lieutenant-colonel  of  the 
2d  Artillery  May  8th,  1833  ;  was  transferred  to  the  4th  Artillery  Aug.  2d,  1822; 
became  colonel  of  the  ist  Artillery  Nov.  17th,  1834,  and  brigadier-general  June 
30th,  1834  ;  he  died  June  37th,  1843. 


'*  David  R 
ant  of  the  15 
from  Mar.  i 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.     Ixxxix 

open  just  at  his  back,  he  unfortunately  put  the  match  into  it  and  the 
consequence,  as  may  be  supposed,  was  dreadful  indeed  !  Every  man  in 
the  battery  was  blown  into  the  air,  and  the  dissection  of  the  greater 
part  of  their  bodies  was  inconceivably  shocking!  The  officers  were 
tiirown  from  the  bastion  by  tlie  shock,  but  escaped  with  a  few  bruises; 
the  cannons  were  dismounted,  and  consequently  the  battery  was  ren- 
dered completely  useless. 

I  was  standing  at  the  gate  of  the  garrison  when  the  poor  soldiers  who 
escaped  the  explosion  with  a  little  life  remaining,  were  brought  in  to  the 
hospital,  and  a  more  afflicting  sight  could  scarcely  be  witnessed.  Their 
faces  were  completely  black,  resembling  those  of  the  blackest  Africans ; 
their  hair  frizzled  like  theirs,  and  their  clothes  scorched  and  emitting  an 
effluvia  so  strong  as  to  be  perceived  long  before  they  reached  one.  One 
man  in  particular  presented  an  awful  spectacle :  he  was  brought  in  a 
wheelbarrow,  and  from  his  appearance  I  should  be  inclined  to  suppose 
that  almost  every  bone  in  his  body  was  broken  ;  he  was  lying  in  a  power- 
less heap,  shaking  about  with  every  motion  of  the  barrow,  from  which 
his  legs  hung  dangling  down,  as  if  only  connected  with  his  body  by 
the  skin,  while  his  cries  and  groans  were  of  the  most  heart-rending 
description. 

Although  Spartan  valour  was  evinced  by  our  little  party,  it  proved  un- 
availing against  the  numbers  that  pressed  them  upon  all  sides  ;  and  in 
consequence  of  the  loss  of  the  battery,  and  the  reduction  that  had  been 
made  in  the  number  of  our  troops,  their  ground  was  no  longer  tenable ; 
but  after  nobly  and  desperately  withstanding  their  enemies  for  several 
hours,  a  retreat  towards  the  garrison  became  inevitable,  although  every 
inch  of  the  ground  was  obstinately  disputed. 

It  is  remarkable  that  Whiting's  relation  of  the  attack  has 
nothing  about  this  marked  affair  ;  it  is  in  fact  impossible  to 
follow  the  course  of  events  in  his  narrative,  between  the 
conclusion  of  the  opening  engagement  and  the  final  ex- 
plosion of  the  main  magazine.  Lossing,  having  brought 
our  troops  to  a  halt,  when  they  were  lying  upon  the  grass, 
continues  with   the  result  of  Major  Eustis'   operations: 

The  firing  from  the  garrison  ceased  and  the  Ainericans  expected  every 
moment  to  see  a  white  flag  displayed  from  the  blockhouse  in  token  of 
surrender.     Lieut.  Riddle  '•  was  sent  forward  to  reconnoitre.    General 

"  David  Riddle  of  Pennsylvania,  who  had  been  appointed  a  second  lieuten- 
ant of  the  15th  Infantry,  was  at  that  time  a  first  lieutenant,  ranking  as  such 
from  Mar.  13th,  1813.      He  was  transferred  to  the  8th  Infantry  May  17th, 


11 

■Mi 


xc 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


In       .Ijj 


Pike,  who  had  just  assisted,  with  his  own  hands,  in  removing  a  wounded 
soldier  to  a  comfortable  place,  was  sitting  upon  a  stump  conversing  with 
a  huge  British  sergeant "  who  had  been  taken  prisoner,  his  staff  standing 
around  him.  At  that  moment  was  felt  a  sudden  tremor  of  the  ground, 
followed  by  a  tremendous  explosion  near  the  British  garrison.  The 
enemy,  despairing  of  holding  the  place,  had  blown  up  their  powder 
magazine,  situated  upon  the  edge  of  the  water  at  the  mouth  of  a  ravine, 
near  where  the  buildings  of  the  Great  Western  Railway  stand.  The 
effect  was  terrible.  Fragments  of  timber,  and  huge  stones  of  which  the 
magazine  walls  were  built,  were  scattered  in  every  direction  over  a  space 
of  several  hundred  yards.  When  the  smoke  floated  away,  the  scene  was 
appalling.  Fifty-two  Americans  lay  dead,  and  i8o  were  wounded.  So 
badly  had  the  affair  been  managed  that  40  of  the  British  also  lost  their 
lives  by  the  explosion.** 

General  Armstrong  states,  in  his  History  of  the  War  of 
1 8 12,  that  General  SheafTe  said  this  explosion  was  acci- 
dental, his  own  soldiers  having  been  involved  in  its  effects. 
General  Whiting  repeats  this.  But  both  Armstrong  and 
Whiting  are  clearly  in  error.  If  General  Sheaffe  ever  said 
this,  he  said  what  he  knew  was  untrue.  His  words — such 
as  they  may  have  been — may  have  referred  to  the  earlier 
explosion  at  the  Western  battery  and  been  mistaken  to 


1815,  and  became  captain  Dec.  3d,  1816,  when  he  had  already  been  twice 
brevetted,  for  distinguished  services  at  the  battle  of  Niagara  Falls,  and  for 
gallant  conduct  in  the  sortie  from  Fort  Erie. 

*'  Lossing  says  elsewhere  that  one  of  the  officers  told  him  his  own  life  was 
probably  saved  by  the  bulk  of  this  sergeant,  who  was  blown  against  him.  This 
officer  was  Lieutenant  Fraser,  one  of  Pike's  aids,  whose  own  words  on  the  sub- 
ject are  given  in  Niles'  Register,  IV.  p.  226 :  "  The  general  had  just  aided 
in  removing  a  wounded  man  with  his  own  hands,  and  sat  down  on  a  stump 
with  a  British  serjeant  we  had  taken  prisoner,  whom  the  general,  with  Captain 
Nicholson  and  myself,  were  examining,  when  the  explosion  took  place.  The 
general,  Captain  Nicholson,  and  the  British  sergeant,  were  all  mortally 
wounded,  and  I  was  so  much  bruised  in  the  general  crash,  that  it  is  surprising 
how  I  survived ;  probably  I  owe  my  escape  to  the  corpulency  of  the  British 
Serjeant,  whose  body  was  thrown  upon  mine  by  the  concussion." 

**  The  figures  vary,  as  usual.  The  official  report  gives  our  loss  as  38  killed 
and  222  wounded  by  the  explosion  ;  which,  added  to  14  killed  and  33  wounded 
in  battle  gives  a  total  of  306  army  casualties  on  our  side  in  the  whole  affair ; 
to  which  add  3  killed  and  1 1  wounded  of  the  na\7,  makiiig  320  in  all.  NVhit- 
ing's  figures  for  killed  and  wounded,  on  the  Americavi  side,  are  320  ;  on  the 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE.  xci 

apply  to  the  main  explosion.  We  have  his  own  reiterated 
writings,  that  the  magazine  was  exploded  by  his  order. 
One  of  these  statements  is  made  in  a  hurried  letter,  whose 
almost  illegible  handwriting  betrays  the  state  of  mind  to 
which  this  gentleman  had  been  reduced.  It  was  written 
while  he  was  on  his  retreat  to  Kingston,  and  is  addressed  to 
his  superior  officer,  Sir  George  Prevost.  The  published 
text  before  me  reads  in  part  as  follows  (italics  editorial) : 

Haldimand,  30th  April. 
My  Dear  Sir  George, — I  have  the  mortification  of  reporting  to  you 
that  York  is  in  the  possession  of  the  enemy,  it  having  on  the  27th  inst. 
been  attacked  by  a  force  too  powerful  to  resist  with  success.  Sixteen 
vessels  of  various  descriptions  full  of  men,  including  their  new  ship  the 
Madison,  formed  their  flotilla.  The  Grenadiers  of  the  King's  suffered 
first  in  the  action  with  .he  enemy  (in  which  Captain  W.  Neale  was 
killed),  and  afterwards  severely,  in  connection  with  other  corps,  by  the 
accidental  explosion  of  a  battery  magazine,  which  at  the  same  time  dis- 
abled the  battery.  /  caused  our  grand  magazine  to  be  blown  up.  .  . 
I  am,  my  dear  Sir  George,  your  very  faithfully  devoted  servant, 

R.  H.  Sheaffe. 

Another  letter  from  General  Sheaffe,  dated  Kingston, 
May  5th,  when  he  had  become  more  composed  in  mind 

British,  in  killed,  wounded,  aad  taken,  "  about  500."  The  tabular  exhibit  in 
Niles'  Register,  IV.  p.  238,  is  as  follows : 

Killed  in  battle — I   subaltern,  a  sergeants,  I   corporal,  2  musicians, 

8  privates 14 

Killed  by  the  explosion — I  captain,  4  sergeants,  4  corporals,  29 
privates 38 

Total  killed 52 

Wounded  in  battle — 2  captains  (one  since  dead),  i  subaltern,  3  ser- 
geants, 4  corporals,  22  privates 32 

Wounded  by  the  explosion — I  brig.  gen.  (since  dead),  i  aid-de-camp, 
I  acting  aid,  i  volunteer  aid,  6  captains,  6  subalterns,  11  ser- 
geants, 9  corporals,  i  musician,  185  privates 222 

Total  wounded 254 

Total  killed  and  wounded 306 

Of  the  navy— 2  midshipmen  and  i  seaman  killed,  1 1  seamen  wounded,     14 

Total  killed  and  wounded 320 


1 

1 

,  J.. 

i,      . 

imm^ 

-■1 

'??SS  iX 

m 

XCll 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


fm 


mi 


than  he  seems  to  have  been  during  his  inglorious  if  not  dis. 
graceful  flight,  gives  a  more  coherent  account  and  many 
further  details.  I  cite  it  in  full,  from  the  original  MS.  now 
in  the  Department  of  Archives  at  Ottawa,  as  kindly  copied 
and  certified  for  me  by  Mr.  L.  P.  Sylvain  of  the  Library  of 
Parliament : 


Sir, 


Kingston,  s""  May,  1813. 


I  did  myself  the  honour  of  writing  to  Your  Excellency  on  my  route 
from  York  to  communicate  the  mortifying  intelligence  that  the  Enemy 
had  obtained  possession  of  that  place  on  the  27^  of  April,  and  I  shall 
now  enter  into  a  fuller  detail,  than  I  was  enabled  to  do  at  the  date  of  that 
letter. 

In  the  evening  of  the  26*>>  of  April  I  received  information  that  many- 
Vessels  had  been  seen  from  the  Highlands  to  the  Eastward  of  York, 
soon  after  daylight  the  next  morning  the  Enemy's  Vessels  were  discov- 
ered lying  to  not  far  from  the  shore  of  the  peninsula  in  front  of  the  town ; 
they  soon  afterwards,  sixteen  in   number  of  various  descriptions,  made 
sail  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  [p.  2]  eastward,  led  by  the  Ship  lately 
built  at  Sackett's  harbour,  and  anchored  off  the  point  where  the  french  fort 
[Rouill^]  formerly  stood ;  many  boats  full  of  troops  were  soon  discovered 
assembling  near  the  Commander's  Ship,  apparently  with  an  intention  of 
effecting  a  landing  on  the  ground  off  which  he  was  anchored  :  our  troops 
were  ordered  into  the  Ravine  in  the  rear  of  the  Government  Garden 
and  fields ;  Major  Givens  and  the  Indians  with  him  were  sent  forward 
through  the  wood  to  oppose  the  landing  of  the  Enemy — the  Company  of 
Glengary  Light  Infantry  was  directed  to  support  them,  and  the  Militia 
not  having  arrived  at  the  Ravine,  The  Grenadiers  of  the  King's  Regi- 
ment  and   the  small  portion  of  the  Royal  Newfoundland  Fencibles 
belonging  to  the  Garrison  of  York  were  moved  on,  led  by  L'  Colonel 
Heathcote  of  that  corps,  commanding  the  Garrison ;  this  movement  was 
directed  to  be  made  within  the  wood,  [p.j]  parallel  to  the  Lake  side,  and 
only  so  far  from  it,  as  not  to  be  discovered  by  the  Enemy's  Vessels,  sev- 
eral of  which  were  not  at  a  great  distance  from  the  shore:  Captain 
Eustace's  company  of  the  King's  Regiment,  and  some  Militia  that  were 
quartered  at  the  east  end  of  the  town,  and  had  been  left  there  during 
the  night,  lest  the  Enemy  might  make  some  attempt  on  that  flank,  were 
ordered,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  party  of  the  Militia,  to  join  these 
troops — which  was  soon  effected  :  while  these  operations  were  going  on 
Major  General  Shaw,  Adjudant  General  of  Militia  led  a  portion  of  the 
Militia  on  a  road  at  the  back  of  the  wood  to  watch  our  rear,  and  to  act 
according  to  circumstances ;  by  some  mistake  he  led  the  Glengary  com- 


m 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


XCIU 


pany  away  from  the  direction  assigned  to  it,  to  accompany  tiiis  detach- 
ment, so  that  it  came  late  into  action,  instead  of  being  near  the  Indians 
at  its  commencement ;  the  movement  of  the  other  troops  was  retarded 
[p.  4\  by  the  difficulty  of  the  wood,  while  the  Enemy  being  aided  by  the 
wind,  rapidly  gained  the  shore  under  cover  of  a  fire  from  the  commo- 
dore's ship  and  other  vessels,  and  landed  in  spite  of  a  spirited  opposition 
from  major  Givens  and  his  small  band  of  Indians ;  the  Enemy  was 
shortly  afterwards  encountered  by  our  handful  of  troops.  Captain  McNeal 
of  the  King's  Regiment  was  early  killed  while  gallantly  leading  his  Com- 
pany which  suffered  severely  :  the  troops  fell  back.  I  succeeded  in  rally- 
ing them  several  times,  and  a  detachment  of  the  King's  with  some  Militia, 
whom  I  had  placed  near  the  edge  of  the  wood  to  protect  our  left  Flank 
repulsed  a  column  of  the  Enemy  which  was  advancing  along  the  bank  at 
the  Lake  side :  but  our  troops  could  not  maintain  the  contest  against 
the  greatly  superior  and  increasing  numbers  of  the  Enemy — they  retired 
rnder  cover  of  our  batteries,  which  were  engaged  with  some  of  their 
'  ^ssels,  that  had  begun  to  beat  up  towards  [p.  j]  the  harbour,  when  their 
troops  landed,  occasionally  firing,  and  had  anchored  at  a  short  distance  to 
the  westward  of  the  line  from  the  Barracks  to  Gibraltar  Point ;  from  that 
situation  they  kept  up  a  heavy  fire  on  our  batteries,  on  the  Block  House 
and  Barracks,  and  on  the  communications  between  them,  some  of  their 
Guns  being  thirty  two  pounders;  to  return  their  fire,  we  had  two  complete 

twelve    pounders,  and  old  coi  iemned  guns   without  trunnions  ( 

eighteen pounders)  whicli.  after  being  proved  had  been  stocked 

and  mounted  under  the  direction  of  Lieut:  Ingouville  of  the  Royal  New- 
foundland Regiment,  whom  I  had  appointed  Assistant  Engineer;  a  twelve 
pounder  of  the  same  description  was  added  during  the  Engagement ; 
with  these  defective  means  the  Enemy  was  kept  at  bay  for  some  time, 
7uhen,  by  some  unfortunate  accident,  the  traveling  Magazine  at  the 
Western  battery  blew  up  and  killed  and  wounded  a  considerable  number 
of  men  [italics  editorial] ;  many  of  them  belonging  to  the  [p.  6] 
Grenadier  Company  of  the  King's  Regiment,  the  battery  was  crippled, 
the  platform  being  torn  up,  and  one  of  the  eighteen  pounders  over- 
turned :  the  Magazine  was  replaced  and  the  battery  restored  to  some 
order,  but  it  was  evident  that  our  numbers  and  means  of  defence  were 
inadequate  to  the  task  of  maintaining  possession  of  York  against  the 
vast  superiority  of  force  brought  against  it,  though  providentially  little 
mischief  had  hitherto  been  done  by  the  long  continued  cannonade  of 
the  Enemy,  except  to  some  of  the  buildings  :  the  troops  were  with- 
drawn towards  the  town,  and  the  grand  Magazine  was  at  the  same  time 
blown  up  [italics  editorial],  the  Enemy  was  so  near  to  it,  that  he  sus- 
tained great  loss,  and  was,  for  a  time,  driven  back  by  the  explosion ; 
some  of  our  own  troops  were  not  beyond  the  reach  of  fragments  of  the 


% 


m 


'H 


!  '! 


hi 


XCIV 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


stone,  though  they  escaped  with  very  little  injury ;  Captain  Loring,  my 
aide-de-camp,  received  a  severe  contusion,  and  [/.  y]  the  horse  he  rode 
was  killed. 

The  troops  were  halted  at  a  ravine  not  far  to  the  westward  of  the 
ship  yard,  I  there  consulted  with  the  Superior  Officers,  and  it  being  too 
apparent  that  a  further  opposition  would  but  render  the  result  more 
disastrous,  some  of  the  Enemy's  vessels  indicating  an  intention  to  move 
up  the  harbour,  in  order  to  co-operate  with  their  land  forces,  I  ordered 
the  troops  of  the  line  to  retreat  on  the  road  to  Kingston,  which  was 
effected  without  any  annoyance  from  the  Enemy ;  when  we  had  pro- 
ceeded some  miles  we  met  the  Light  Company  of  the  King's  Regiment 
on  its  march  for  Fort  George,  I  had  sent  an  express  the  preceding  even- 
ing to  hasten  its  movement,  but  it  was  at  too  great  a  distance  to  be  able 
to  join  us  at  York. 

The  ship  on  the  stocks  and  the  naval  stores  were  destroyed  to  prevent 
the  Enemy  from  getting  possession  of  them.  [p.  S]  An  attempt  to  set 
fire  to  the  Gloucester  that  was  fitting  out  for  purposes  of  transport, 
proved  abortive ;  she  was  aground  a  mere  hulk,  her  repairs  not  being 
half  finished  :  I  have  been  informed  that  the  enemy  succeeded  in  getting 
her  off,  and  putting  her  into  a  state  to  be  towed  away ;  a  number  of 
shipwrights  having  arrived  from  Sackett's  harbour  with  the  expectation 
of  employing  them  in  a  similar  task  on  our  new  ship. 

The  accounts  of  the  number  of  the  Enemy  landed  vary  from  eighteen 
hundred  and  ninety  to  three  thousand  [!],  our  force  consisted  of  a  Bom- 
bardier and  twelve  Gunners  of  the  Royal  Artillery  to  assist  whom  men 
were  drawn  from  other  corps,  two  companies  of  the  8th  or  King's  Regi- 
ment, one  of  them,  the  Grenadiers,  being  on  its  .  oute  for  Fort  George, 
about  a  company  in  number,  of  the  Royal  [p.  p]  Newfoundland  regi- 
ment, and  one  of  the  Glengary  Light  Infantry,  and  about  three  hundred 
Militia  and  Dock  Yard  men  ;  the  quality  of  some  of  these  troops  was  of 
so  superior  a  description,  and  their  general  disposition  so  good,  that 
under  less  unfavourable  circumstances  we  might  have  repulsed  the 
Enemy  in  spite  of  his  numbers,  or  have  made  him  pay  dearly  for  suc- 
cess ;  as  it  was,  according  to  the  reports  that  have  reached  me,  his  loss 
was  much  greater  than  ours,  a  return  of  which  I  have  the  hono'.r  of 
transmitting,  except  of  that  of  the  Militia,  of  which  a  return  has  ;-*.  yet 
been  received ;  but  I  believe  it  to  have  been  inconsiderable :  Donald 
McLean  Esqr  Clerk  of  the  House  of  Assembly  gallantly  volunteered  his 
services  with  a  musket,  and  was  killed. 

[p.  id]  Captain  Jarvis  of  the  Incorporated  Militia,  a  meritorious 
Officer,  who  had  a  share  in  the  successes  at  Detroit  and  Queenston,  had 
been  sent  with  a  party  of  Militia  in  three  batteaux  for  the  Militia 
Clothing,  which  had  been  left  on  the  road  from  Kingston,  he  came  to  me 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


xcv 


m 


men 


ir  suc- 

liis  loss 

|o':r  of 

:.*.  yet 

)onald 

ted  his 

|n,  had 
lihtia 
I  to  me 


during  the  action  to  report  his  arrival,  and  soon  afterwards  he  was 
severely  wounded :  a  few  of  the  Indians  (Missasagus  &  Chipeways) 
were  killed  and  wounded,  among  the  latter  were  two  chiefs. 

Thinking  it  highly  probable  that  the  Enemy  would  pay  an  early  visit 
to  York,  I  had  remained  there  long  beyond  the  period  I  had  originally 
assigned  for  my  departure  to  fort  George,  in  order  to  expedite  the  prep- 
arations which  tiie  means  in  my  power  enabled  me  to  make  for  the 
defence  of  the  place;  Your  [/.//]  Excellency  knows  that  I  had 
intended  to  place  Colonel  Myers,  Acting  Quarter  Master  General,  in  the 
command  there,  at  least  for  a  time ;  I  afterwards  learnt  that  Colonel 
Young  was  in  movement  towards  me  with  the  8th  or  King's  Regt.  I 
then  decided  to  give  him  the  Command  to  avoid  the  inconvenience  of 
separating  {sic)  the  head  of  a  department  from  me,  and  being  informed 
that  he  was  to  move  up  by  himself  as  speedily  as  possible,  I  was  for 
some  time  in  daily  expectation  of  seeing  him  ;  at  length,  having  reason 
to  believe  that  he  was  to  accompany  one  of  the  divisions  of  his  Regi- 
ment, I  wrote  to  him  both  by  the  land  and  by  the  water  route  to  come 
to  me  without  delay  ;  about  the  2Sth  of  April  I  received  certain  intelli- 
gence, of  what  had  been  [p.  12]  before  rumoured,  that  he  was  detained 
at  Kingston  by  a  severe  illness,  and  on  the  26th  I  learnt  that  Colonel 
Myers  was  to  lea-'e  Fort  George  that  day  for  York,  I  therefore  deter- 
mined to  wait  for  his  arrival,  and  to  leave  him  in  the  command  until  Colo- 
nel Young  might  be  in  a  state  to  relieve  him  ;  it  was  in  the  evening  of 
the  same  day  that  I  heard  of  the  approach  of  the  Enemy  :  I  have 
thought  it  proper  to  enter  into  this  explanation,  as  Your  Excellency  may 
have  expected  that  I  had  returned  to  Fort  George  before  the  period  at 
which  the  attack  was  made  on  York.  I  propose  remaining  here  until  I 
shall  have  received  Your  Excellency's  Commands. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be, 
With  great  respect. 


His  Excellency 
Sir.  George  Prevost.  Bt 
et.  et.  et. 


Your  Excellency's 

Most  obedient 
humble  servant 
[Sighed]    R.  H.  Sheaffe. 
M.  Gen.  Command. 


Certified  a   true  copy  of  the  original  letter  in   the  Department  of 
Archives,  Ottawa. 

[Signed]     L.  P.  Sylvain,  Assist.  Libr.,  Nov.  2d,  1894. 

Here  is  the  clear  and  intelligible  testimony  of  the  British 
commanding  general  to  the  facts  that  there  were  two  ex- 
plosions, one  of  which  was  accidental  and  destructive  to  his 


7 


I 


1      : 


■  VI 

■  i1 


II 


XCVl 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


own  men,  the  other  designed  and  executed  by  his  own  com- 
mand.  It  is  believed  to  have  been  a  little  premature,  in  the 
confusion  of  an  evacuation  that  was  nothing  short  of  a  rout, 
before  the  defenders  were  quite  out  of  reach  of  its  effects ; 
but  that  they  suffered  little  from  what  wrought  such  havoc 
with  the  Americans,  is  incontestable.  The  ethics  of  the 
catastrophe  I  leave  to  be  discussed  by  professional  military 
critics ;  but  it  seems  to  me  that  General  Sheaffe  was  justified 
in  inflicting  the  utmost  possible  injury  upon  the  enemy,  and 
that  he  would  have  been  chargeable  with  culpable  neglect  of 
duty  if  he  had  allowed  valuable  munitions  of  war  to  fall  into 
their  hands. 

Before  resuming  the  main  thread  of  this  painful  narration 
I  will  introduce  two  accounts,  both  by  eye-witnesses. 

One  of  these  is  contained  in  an  extract  of  a  letter  from  a 
field  officer  in  the  force  which  landed  at  York,  name  not 
given,  to  the  War  Department,  as  published  in  Niles'  Regis- 
ter, IV.  p.  193.  It  is  explicit  regarding  both  explosions, 
though  loose  in  statement  of  numbers  killed  by  each,  and 
in  some  other  respects : 

The  column  of  attack  consisted  of  the  6th,  15th,  i6th,  and  21st  regi- 
ments of  infantry,  and  a  detachment  of  the  light  and  heavy  artillery. 
Major  Forsyth's  corps  of  riflemen,  and  Lieut.  Col.  M'Clure's  corps  of 
volunteers  acted  on  the  flanks.  There  was  a  long  piece  of  woods  to  go 
through,  which  offered  many  obstructions  to  our  heavy  ordnance.  As 
was  expected,  we  were  there  annoyed  on  our  flanks  by  a  part  of  the 
British  and  Indians,  with  a  six-pounder  and  two  howitzers.  One  of  the 
enemies  batteries  [the  Western]  accidentally  blew  up,  by  which  they  lost 
50  men  of  the  8th  regiment.  A  part  of  our  force  was  detached  from  our 
column,  as  it  came  into  the  open  ground,  who  carried  the  second  battery 
by  storm.  The  troops  were  halted  a  few  minutes  to  bring  up  the  heavy 
artillery  to  play  on  the  blockhouse.  General  Sheaffe,  despairing  of  hold- 
ing the  town,  ordered  fire  to  be  put  to  the  magazine,  in  which  there  were 
500  barrels  of  powder,  many  cart  loads  of  stone,  and  an  immense  quan- 
tity of  iron,  shells  and  shot.  The  explosion  was  tremendous.  The 
column  was  raked  from  front  to  rear.  General  Pike  and  his  three  aids, 
and  250  officers  and  men  were  killed  or  wounded  in  the  column.  Not- 
withstanding this  calamity  and  the  discomfiture  that  might  be  expected 
to  follow  it,  the  troops  gave  three  cheers,  instantly  formed  the  column, 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE.        XCvii 

and  marched  on  toward  the  town.     General  SheafTe  fled  and  left  his 
papers  and  baggage  behind  him.** 

Finan  gives  a  vivid  picture  of  what  he  saw  of  the  catas- 
trophe. It  must  be  taken  with  some  allowance,  perhaps, 
for  the  force  of  the  impression  which  the  terrible  scene 
made  upon  him  at  the  moment,  and  the  subsequent  insist- 

'*  The  statement  that  General  Sheaffe's  retreat  was  so  precipitate  that  he  lost 
his  papers  is  confirmed  by  General  Dearborn  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  of 
War,  dated  Niagara,  May  3d,  1813  (Niles'  Register,  ibid.);  "York  was  a 
magazine  for  Niagara,  Detroit,  etc..  and  notwithstanding  the  immense  amount 
which  was  destroyed  by  them,  we  found  more  than  we  could  bring  off.  Gen. 
SheafTe's  baggage  and  papers  fell  into  my  hands ;  the  papers  are  a  valuable 
ac'|uisition.  A  SCALP  was  found  in  the  executive  and  legislative  council  cham- 
ber,  suspended  near  the  speaker's  chair  in  company  with  the  mace,  etc." 

This  "scalp  incident,"  as  it  came  to  be  known,  and  as  I  may  remark  in  pass- 
ing, became  the  probably  groundless  pretext  for  a  storm  of  abuse  of  British 
methods  of  warfare.  In  the  feverish  state  of  public  opinion  which  the  start- 
ling climax  of  the  battle  of  York  excited  almost  to  frenzy,  it  was  regarded  as 
adding  insult  to  injury,  and  furthermore  taken  as  a  proof  that  our  dead  and 
wounded  would  be  handed  over  by  the  British  to  their  Indian  allies,  to  be  dealt 
with  according  to  the  customs  of  savage  warfare.  Thus,  the  usually  temperate 
and  judicious  editor  of  the  Register  could  permit  himself  to  say  :  "  I'he  'mace' 
is  the  emblem  of  authority,  and  the  scalp's  position  near  it  is  truly  symbolical  of 
the  British  power  in  Canada,  Horrible  and  infamous  wretches !  But  the 
reign  of  the  murderers  is  nearly  at  an  end,"  p.  190.  And  again,  p.  259,  with 
"  scalp  "  in  large  capitals,  and  various  other  typographical  methods  of  relieving 
his  state  of  mind:  "British  humanity.  When  major-general  Dearborn 
stated  that  a  SCALP  had  been  found  in  the  government-house  of  Upper  Can- 
ada, suspended  near  the  mace,  the  emblem  of  power,  many  persons  affected  to 
doubt  the  fact ;  but  most  men  believed,  not  only  because  General  Dearbo'n  had 
stated  the  circumstance,  but  because  it  was  strictly  characteristic  of  the  British 
government,  which  is  as  base  and  deliberately  wicked  as  any  other  in  the  civil- 
ized world.  But  the  horrible  fact  is  further  and  conclusively  established  by 
commodore  Chauncey,  whose  testimony  will  not  be  disputed,  openly,  by  those 
who /r^/«/(/i»rf to  disbelieve  gen.  Dearborn.  Let  us  hear  no  more  of  '^British 
humanity  and  religion — nor  permit  these  great  attributes  to  be  lavished  upon 
murderous  villains.  It  is  fact,  horrible  fact,  that  the  legislature  of  '  unoffend- 
ing Canada'  did  sanction  (by  hanging  up  in  their  hall,  in  evidence  of  their 
authority,  a  human  tcalp)  the  murders  of  our  people  by  the  savages.  Great 
Heaven  !  "    This  senseless  outburst  concludes  with  the  following  letter : 

U.  S.  Ship  Madison,  Sackett's  Harbor,  4th  June,  181  j. 
Sir — I  have  the  honor  to  present  to  you  by  the  hands  of  lieutenant  Dudley,  the 
British  standard  taken  at  York  on  the  37th  of  April  last,  accompanied  by  the 


\  I 


:SS9 


xcviii       MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 

ence  with  which  his  memory  dwelt  upon  such  a  spectacle ; 
but  it  can  hardly  be  much  overdrawn : 

The  governor's  house,  with  some  smaller  buildings,  formed  a  square, 
at  the  center  battery,  and  under  it  the  grand  magazine,  containing  a  larji^c 
quantity  of  powder,  was  situated.  As  there  were  only  two  or  three  guns 
at  this  buttery,  and  it  but  a  short  distance  from  the  garrison,  the  troops 
did  not  remain  in  it,  but  retreated  to  the  latter.  When  the  Americms 
commanded  by  one  of  their  best  generals,  Pike,  reached  this   small 


III 


mace,  ovtr  which  hung  a  human  SCALP. — Those  articles  were  taken  from  the 

parliament  house  by  one  of  my  oiHcers  and  presented  to  me.     The  scalp  I 

caused  to  be  presented  to  general  Dearborn,  who  I  believe  still  has  it  ii^  his 

possession.     I  also  send  by  the  same  gentleman,  one  of  the  Uritish  fla(;s  taken 

at  Fort  George  on  the  27th  of  May. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  sir,  your  most  obedient  humble 

servant, 

[Signed]    Isaac  Chauncev. 

Honorable  Wm.  Jones, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy,  iVashington. 

It  may  be  here  added  that  the  practice  of  scalping  is  by  no  means  confined  to 
the  aborigines  of  North  America.  Among  white  Americans,  it  has  never  been 
too  uncommon  to  excite  remark,  still  less  reprobation  ;  and  though  it  may  nut 
have  been  a  regularly  recognized  and  practiced  incident  of  our  warfare  with 
Indians  of  late  years,  one  has  only  to  read  any  of  the  chronicles  of  our  earlier 
warrings  with  Indian,  English,  or  French  foes,  to  perceive  the  entire  reci- 
procity of  the  custom.  It  fell  into  desuetude,  on  our  part,  less  from  any  disre- 
pute than  from  sheer  indifference.  Instances  are  not  lacking  during  the  last 
century,  of  our  skinning  whole  Indians,  tanning  their  hides,  and  manufactur- 
ing the  leather  into  various  articles  of  use  or  joy  ;  and  when  we  ceased  to  scalp 
as  a  rule,  it  was  simply  because  scalps  were  no  longer  worth  the  trouble  of 
taking.  I  am  myself  no  stranger  to  reeking  Apache  scalps,  taken  both  by  citi- 
zens and  soldiery.  I  knew  a  young  officer  of  our  army  who,  in  a  spirit  of 
bravado,  fastened  an  Apache  scalp  to  each  of  his  spurs,  and  wore  them  with  tlie 
long  black  hair  trailing  at  his  heels  during  one  of  his  hunts  for  Indians  in 
Arizona.  The  legislature  of  one  of  our  Territories  passed  a  bill  offering  a 
reward  of  a  certain  sum  of  money  for  every  "  buck"  Indian's  scalp  which  should 
be  produced,  and  a  certain  other  sum  for  the  scalp  of  "  anything  in  the  shape 
of  an  Indian,"  1.  t.,  woman  or  child.  The  British  general,  Henry  Hamilton, 
while  lieutenant-governor  at  Detroit,  had  a  regular  tariff  of  prices  both  for 
prisoners  and  for  scalps  which  he  purchased  from  Indians  and  from  white  rene- 
gades, thus  acquiring  the  soubriquet  of  "  the  hair-buying  general,"  applied  to 
him  by  George  Rogers  Clark.  Honors  are  so  easy  on  this  score  that  they  do 
not  count  in  the  game  of  war  which  the  British  played  with  their  American 
cousins. 


WW  ^  i^^f  I  L»  '■T,^ 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


XCIX 


battery,  instead  of  pressing  forward,  they  halted,  and  the  general  sat 
down  on  one  of  the  guns  ;  a  fatal  proceeding— for,  in  a  few  minutes,  his 
advance  guard,  consisting  of  aiiout  300  men  and  himself,  were  blown 
into  the  air  by  the  explosion  of  the  grand  magazine. 

Sume  time  before  this  horrible  circumstance  took  place,  the  vessels 
had  commenced  tiring  upon  the  garrison,  which  obliged  the  females,  and 
children,  &c.  to  leave  it ;  we  therefore  retired  into  the  country,  to 
the  house  of  an  officer  of  the  militia,  where  we  remained  a  short  time  ; 
but  feeling  anxious  to  know  the  fate  of  the  day,  I  left  the  house  without 
the  knowledge  of  my  mother,  and  was  proceeding  toward  the  garrison 
when  the  explosion  took  place.  I  heard  the  report,  and  felt  a  tremendous 
niution  in  the  earth,  resembling  the  shock  <  a'  earthquake  ;  and,  looking 
towards  the  spot,  I  saw  an  immense  clouu  ascend  into  the  air.  I  was 
not  aware  at  the  moment  what  it  had  been  occasioned  by,  but  it  had 
an  awfully  grand  effect ;  at  first  it  was  a  great  confused  mass  of  smoke, 
timber,  men,  earth,  &c.  but  as  it  rose,  in  a  most  majestic  manner,  it 
assumed  the  shape  of  a  vast  balloon.  When  the  vrhole  mass  had 
ascended  to  a  considerable  height,  and  the  force  by  which  the  timber, 
&c.  were  impelled  upwards  became  spent,  the  latter  fell  from  the  cloud 
and  spread  over  the  surrounding  plain.  I  stopped  to  observe  the  cloud, 
which  preserved  its  round  shape  while  it  remained  within  my  view.  I 
then  advanced  towards  the  garrison,  but  had  not  proceeded  much  farther 
until  I  discovered  our  little  party  collected  in  a  close  body  between  the 
town  and  that  place,  which  latter  they  had  been  obliged  to  evacuate. 

It  is  said,  "  Death  loves  a  shining  mark."  One  of  the 
missiles  that  hurtled  down  on  that  devoted  band  sought  out 
their  heroic  leader  with  fatal  effect.  A  piece  of  rock  fell  on 
General  Pike's  back,  and  "  broke  in  upon  the  very  springs  of 
life,"  to  use  Whiting's  words.  A  sadly  realistic  memento  of 
the  speedily  fatal  injury  reaches  us  from  one  of  his  aids, 
who  was  by  his  side  and  was  himself  gravely  wounded. 
Lieutenant  Fraser  says,  in  a  private  letter  he  wrote  by 
Pike's  specialinjunction,  which  appeared  in  the  Aurora,  and 
afterward  in  Niles'  Register,  IV.  p.  225  :  "  Without  the 
honor  of  a  personal  acquaintance,  I  address  you  at  the  par- 
ticular order  of  the  late' General  Pike.     After  he  had  been 

mortally  wounded,  his  words  were  exactly  these  :     ' 

I  am  mortally  wounded — my  ribs  and  back  are  stove  in — 

write  my  friend  D and  tell  him  what  you  know  of 

the  battle — and  to  comfort  my '    Some  things  else 


.  I 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


Si'W  i 


,  m 


he  said,  on  which  I  shall  again  write  you ;  and  many  things 
he  said  for  your  ear  have  escaped  me  through  the  severity  of 
my  own  bruises." 

The  dying  general  was  carricJ  to  a  boat  at  the  lake  side 
and  conveyed  to  the  Pert,  whence  he  was  taken  aboard 
the  flagship  Madison.  Some  recorded  words  of  his  last 
moments  need  not  be  scanned  with  critical  eye.  When 
those  who  bore  their  fallen  leader  reached  the  boat  the 
huzza  of  the  troops  fell  upon  his  ears.  "  What  does  it 
mean  ? "  he  feebly  asked.  "  Victory !  "  was  the  reply ;  "  the 
Union  Jack  is  coming  down,  General — the  Stars  and  Stripes 
are  going  up ! "  The  dying  hero's  face  lighted  up  with  a 
smile  of  ecstasy.  His  spirit  lingered  a  few  hours.  Before 
the  end  came,  the  British  flag  was  brought  to  him.  He 
made  a  sign  to  place  it  under  his  head ;  and  thus  he 
expired." 

Military  history  hardly  furnishes  a  closer  parallel  than 
that  between  the  death  of  Pike  before  "York  and  of  Wolfe 
before  Quebec.  Each  led  to  the  assault ;  each  conquered ; 
each  fell  in  the  arms  of  victory ;  each  is  said  to  have 
pillowed  his  head  on  the  stricken  colors  of  the  defenders. 
On  the  other  hand,  no  contrast  could  be  more  obtrusive 
than  that  between  the  fall  of  Brock  before  Queenstown 
Heights  and  the  conduct  of  his  successor,  Sheaffe,  at  York. 
The  latter  fled  rn  the  heels  of  disaster  across  the  Don  and 
on  toward  Kingston  ;  even  his  personal  baggage  and  papers 
fell  into  the  hands  of  his  enemy;  the  very  terms  of  the 
surrender  of  York  were  agreed  upon  by  others,  in  the 
absence  of  its  late  defender.  But  it  is  needless  to  pursue 
this  subject.  General  Sheaffe  has  by  none  been  more 
severely  criticised  than  by  British  writers. 

When  General  Pike  fell,  the  command  devolved  by  senior- 

•"  "A  distinguished  officer  who  was  in  the  battle  at  York  states  that,  as  he 
passed  the  general,  after  he  was  wounded,  he  cried,  '  Push  on,  my  brave  fellows, 
and  avenge  your  general.'  A5  he  was  breathing  his  last  the  British  standard 
was  brought  to  him;  he  made  a  sign  to  have  it  placed  under  his  head,  and  died 
without  a  groan." 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY    PIKE. 


CI 


than 
Wolfe 
iiered ; 
have 
mders. 
rusive 
stown 
York. 
1  and 
apers 
f  the 
n  the 
ursue 
more 

kenior- 


ity  upon  Colonel  Pearce,"  of  the  i6th  Infantry,  until  General 
Dearborn  arrived  upon  the  scene.  Lieutenant  Riddle's 
detachment  was  so  near  the  place  of  explosion  that  it 
escaped  the  dftadly  shower ;  but  the  Americans  scattered 
in  dismay  at  the  catastrophe.  They  were  rallied  by 
Brigade-Major  Hunt  and  Lieutenant-Colonel  Mitchell  of 
the  3d  Artillery.  The  column  was  formed  again  and  led 
into  the  captured  town  without  further  resistance.  Colonel 
Pearce  sent  a  flag,  demanding  immediate  and  unconditional 
surrender — and  surrender  it  was,  with  the  single  stipulation 
that  private  property  should  be  respected.  As  soon  as 
practicable  General  Dearborn  left  the  fleet  for  York,  where 
he  was  in  command  before  night  fell.  His  first  dispatch  to 
the  Secretary  of  War  appears  as  follows  in  the  text  of  Fay's 
Collection,  p.  81,  and  is  substantially  the  same  in  Niles' 
Register,  IV.  p.  178: 

Headquarters,  York,  Capital  of  U.  C. 

April  27,  1813— 8  o'clock,  p.  M. 
Sir — We  are  in  full  possession  of  this  place,  after  a  sharp  conflict,  in 
which  we  lost  some  brave  officers  and  soldiers.  General  Sheaffe  com- 
manded the  British  troops,  militia,  and  Indians,  in  person. — We  shall  be 
prepared  to  sail  for  the  next  object  of  the  expedition,  the  first  favourable 
wind.  I  have  to  lament  the  loss  of  the  biave  and  active  Brig.  Gen. 
Pike.  I  am,  &c. 

H.  Dearborn. 
Hon.  J.  Armstrong. 

The  official  reports  of  General  Dearborn  and  of  Commo- 
dore Chauncey  to  their  respective  Secretaries  of  War  and  of 
the  Navy  appear  in  full  in  Niles'  Register,  IV.  pp.  178-180; 
in  Brannan's  Official  Letters,  pp.  146-149,  and  in  Fay's  Col- 
lection of  Official  Documents,  pp.  81-85.  The  text  of  Dear- 
bom's  in  Niles  is  in  greater  part  as  follows : 


iN 


t  ; 

i ; 


I   ; 


It,  as  he 

Ifellows, 
Itandard 
lad  died 


"  Cromwell  Pearce  of  Pennsylvania.  He  had  been  appointed  from  his  State 
a  first  lieutenant  of  the  loth  Infantry  May  3d,  1799,  and  honorab^  discharged 
June  15th,  1800.  His  colonelcy  of  the  i6th  Infantry  dated  from  April  asth, 
iSi3  ;  he  was  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815,  and  died  April  2d,  185a. 


I     ; 


Cll 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


f'l 


; 


( 


Sir 


Headquarters,  York,  Capital  of  Upper  Canada, 

April  28,  1813. 


After  a  detention  of  some  days  by  adverse  winds,  we  arrived  at  this 
place  yesterday  morning,  and  at  eight  o'clock  commenced  landing  the 
troops,  about  three  miles  westward  from  the  town,  and  one  mile  and 
a  half  from  the  enemy's  works.  The  wind  was  high  and  in  unfavorable 
direction  for  the  boats,  which  prevented  the  landing  of  the  troops  at 
a  clear  field,  the  scite  of  the  ancient  French  fort  Toronto  [Rouill^].  It 
prevented,  also,  many  of  the  armed  vessels  from  taking  positions  which 
would  have  most  effectually  covered  our  landing,  but  everything  that 
could  be  done  was  effected. 

The  riflemen  under  Major  Forsyth  first  landed,  under  a  heavy  fire 
from  the  Indians  and  other  troops.  General  Sheaffe  commanded  in 
person.  He  had  collected  his  whole  force  in  the  woods  near  the  point 
where  the  wind  compelled  our  troops  to  land.  His  force  consisted  of 
700  regulars  and  militia,  and  100  Indians.  Major  Forsyth  was  supported 
as  promptly  as  possible ;  but  the  contest  was  sharp  and  severe  for  nearly 
half  .1.1  hour,  and  the  enemy  were  repulsed  by  a  number  far  inferior  to 
theirs.  As  soon  as  General  Pike  landed  with  700  or  800  men  and  the  re- 
mainder of  the  troops  were  pushing  for  the  shore,  the  enemy  retreated  to 
their  works.  Our  troops  were  now  formed  on  the  ground  originally  in- 
tended for  their  landing,  advanced  through  a  thick  wood,  and  after  carry- 
ing one  [the  Western]  battery  by  assault,  were  moving  in  columns  toward 
the  main  work ;  when  within  60  rods  of  this,  a  tremendous  explosion 
took  place  from  a  magazine  previously  prepared,  which  threw  out  such 
immense  qusptit'es  rf  stone  as  most  seriously  to  injure  our  troops. 
I  have  not  yet  been  able  to  collect  the  returns  of  the  killed  and 
wounded ;  but  our  loss  will  I  fear  exceed  100  [see  p.  xci] ;  and  among 
those  I  have  to  lament  the  loss  of  that  brave  and  excellent  officer, 
Brigadier-General  Pike,  who  received  a  concussion  from  a  large  stone, 
which  terminated  his  valuable  life  within  a  few  hours.  His  loss  will  be 
severely  felt. 

Previously  to  this  explosion  the  enemy  had  retired  into  the  town, 
excepting  a  party  of  regulars,  to  the  number  of  40,  who  did  not  escape 
the  effects  of  the  shock.   .    . 

General  Sheaffe  moved  off  with  the  regular  troops  and  left  the  com- 
manding officer  of  the  militia  to  make  the  best  terms  he  could.  In  the 
mean  time  all  further  resistance  on  the  part  of  the  enemy  ceased,  and  the 
outlines  of  a  capitulation  were  agreed  on.   .  . 

I  have  the  honor  to  be.  Sir,  &c., 

[Signed]    Henry  Dearborn. 

Hon.  Gen.  John  Armstrong, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington. 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


cm 


The  "  Terms  of  capitulation  entered  into  on  the  27th  of 
April,  18 1 3,  for  the  surrender  of  the  town  of  York,  in  Upper 
Canada,  to  the  Army  and  Navy  of  the  United  States,  under 
the  command  of  Major-General  Dearborn  and  Commodore 
Chauncey,"  appear  as  follows,  in  Niles'  Register,  IV.  p. 
180— omitting  the  clauses  which  relate  to  the  disposition  of 
individuals  as  prisoners  of  war  : 

That  the  troops,  regular  and  militia,  at  this  post,  and  the  naval  officers 
and  seamen,  shall  be  surrendered  prisoners  of  war.  The  troops,  regular 
and  militia,  to  ground  their  arms  immediately,  on  parade,  and  the  naval 
officers  and  seaman  to  be  immediately  surrendered. 

That  a"  oublic  stores,  naval  and  military,  shall  be  immediately  given 
up  to  the  imanding  officers  of  the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States. 
That  all  i>i..  .te  property  shall  be  guaranteed  to  the  citizens  of  the  town 
of  York. 

That  all  papers  belonging  to  the  civil  officers  shall  be  retained  by 
them.  That  such  surgeons  as  may  be  procured  to  attend  the  wounded 
of  the  British  regulars  and  Canadian  militia  shall  not  be  considered 
prisoners  of  war. 

These  articles  bear  the  signatures  of :  Lieutenant-Colonel 
G.  E.  Mitchell,"  3d  U.  S.  Artillery ;  Major  S.  S.  Conner," 
aid-de-camp  to  General  Dearborn  ;  Major  William  King, 
15th  U.  S.  Infantry;  Lieutenant  Jesse  D.  Elliott,  U.  S. 
Navy ;  Lieutenant-Colonel  W.  Chewitt,  commanding  3d 
regiment  of  York  Militia;  Major  W.  Allen  (or  Allan),  of 
the  same ;  and  F.  Gaurreau,  "  lieut.  M.  Dpt." — the  last 
name  perhaps  misprinted. 

General  Pike's  body  was  prepared  at  York  and  conveyed 
to  Sackett's  Harbor  for  interment.  It  was  firsi:  buried  at 
Fort  Tompkins,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  shiphouse, 

"  George  E.  Mitchell  of  Maryland  became  'r.ijor  of  the  3d  Artillery  May  1st, 
18 1 2,  and  lieutenant-colonel  Mar.  3d,  1813  ;  he  was  brevetted  colonel  May  5th, 
1814,  for  gallant  conduct  in  repelling  the  attack  of  British  forces  on  Fort 
Oswego,  N.  Y. ;  transferred  to  corps  of  Artillery  May  I2th,  1814,  and  to  3d 
Artillery  June  1st,  1821;  he  resigned  the  same  day,  and  died  June  28th,  1832. 

"  Samuel  S.  Conner  of  New  Hampshire  was  appointed  from  Massachusetts 
major  of  the  21st  Infantry,  Mar.  12th,  1812  ;  became  lieutenant-colonel  of  the 
13th  Infantry  Mar.  lath,  18x3 ;  resigned  July  14th,  1814,  and  died  Dec.  17th, 
1820. 


CIV 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


•  J;*™!  m 


-if  ■ 


together  with  that  of  his  aid-de-camp,  Captain  Nicholson," 
who  had  been  mortally  wounded  by  his  side.  Among  the 
defenses  of  Sackett's  Harbor  was  one  named  Fort  Pike, 
which  stood  on  Black  River  bay.  A  view  of  this  work,  as 
it  was  in  1855,  is  given  by  Lossing.  Madison  Barracks  was 
built  close  by  Fort  Pike,  soon  after  the  war,  and  in  the 
burying-ground  there  were  deposited  the  remains  of  several 
officers,  to  whose  memories  a  simple  wooden  monument 
was  erected  in  18 19.  Lossing  figures  this,  p.  617,  as  it 
was  when  he  examined  it  in  July,  1855,  "  ii^ore  leaning  than 
the  Pisa  tower."  In  1 860  it  was  rapidly  crumbling  into  dust ; 
the  urn  which  had  surmounted  it  was  gone,  and  the  inscrip- 
tion was  illegible.  A  part  of  the  legend  on  the  west  panel, 
copied  by  Lossing  at  his  previous  visit,  had  been :  "  In 
memory  of  Brigadier  General  Z.  M.  Pike,  killed  at  York, 
U.  C.  27th  April,  181 3." 

A  tablet  to  the  memory  of  General  Pike  has  for  many 
years  been  set  in  St.  Michael's  church,  at  Trenton,  N.  J. 
For  a  description  of  this  object  and  a  copy  of  the  inscrij> 
tion  I  am  indebted  to  the  courteous  attentions  of  the  rector, 
Rev.  O.  S.  Bunting.  It  consists  of  a  marble  slab,  about  36 
inches  high  by  20  inches  wide,  inserted  in  the  outer  wall  of 
the  church  on  the  east  side,  the  base  being  about  two  feet 
from  the  ground.  On  this  slab  is  carved  in  relief  an  urn, 
which  occupies  the  whole  surface,  as  nearly  as  the  shape  of 
an  urn  can  fill  a  rectangle ;  and  on  the  urn  is  engraven  the 

following  inscription : 

Sacred 

to  the  memory  of 

GEN.   Z.    M.    PIKE, 

of  the  U.  S.  Army, 

who  fell  in  defence 

of  his  country 

on  the  27th  April 

A.  D.  1813, 

at  York 

Upper  Canada. 

"Benjamin  Nicholson  of  Maryland,  who  languished  of  his  wounds  till 
May  13th.  He  had  been  appointed  a  first  lieutenant  of  the  14th  Infantry 
Mar.  I2th,  1812,  and  promoted  to  be  captain  Mar.  3d,  1813. 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


CV 


On  the  base  is  inscribed  :  "  This  small  tribute  of  respect 
is  erected  by  his  friend,  Z.  R."  The  stone  is  in  a  good  state 
of  preservation,  and  its  position  affords  considerable  secu- 
rity. Mr.  Bunting  has  no  particulars  of  the  erection  of  the 
tablet,  and  uoes  not  identify  *'  Z.  R." 

Upon  the  fall  of  York,  the  press  of  the  whole  country 
teemed  with  jubilant  notices  of  the  auspicious  event — the 
first  signal  success  of  our  arms  after  a  period  of  defeat, 
doubt,  and  almost  despair.  The  death  of  Pike  was  on  every 
tongue,  in  terms  of  affection  for  the  man  and  honor  to  his 
name,  coupled  with  expressions  of  horror  and  detestation  of 
the  manner  in  which  he  and  so  many  of  his  companions  had 
met  their  fate.  The  feeling  in  the  latter  regard  was  spon- 
taneous and  natural  under  the  circumstances — it  appears 
differently  in  the  cold  gray  light  of  history.  Among  un- 
counted tributes  to  Pike's  memory,  a  few  may  be  selected 
for  reproduction  in  the  present  biography. 

The  editor  of  Niles'  Register  was  in  the  habit  of  dedi- 
cating a  completed  volume.  The  fourth  volume,  from  Mar. 
to  Sept.,  1813,  is  inscribed  :  "  In  Testimony  of  Respect  to 
the  Memory  of  Zebulon  MONTGOMERY  PiKE,  Brigadier- 
General :  who  fell  gloriously  before  York,  in  Upper  Canada. 
And  James  Lawrence,  Captain  in  the  Navy :  Killed  on 
board  the  Chesapeake  frigate,  fighting  the  Shannon.  This 
volume  of  the  Weekly  Register,  is  dedicated.  The  former 
happily  expired  on  the  conquered  flag  of  the  foe,  the  latter 
died  exclaiming,  '  Don't  give  up  the  ship.'  " 

The  same  volume  prints  the  following  tribute  in  No.  14, 
for  the  week  ending  June  5tb,  1813,  pp.  228,  229: 


It  has  been  the  lot  of  few  men,  unassisted  by  many  adventitious  cir- 
cumstances to  acquire  and  possess  that  high  confidence  and  respect  of 
all  classes  of  his  fellow-citizens,  the  late  General  Pike  so  happily  enjoyed. 
Without  the  splendor  of  achievement  that  surrounds  the  fortunate  hero, 
and  commands  the  applause  of  the  populace,  the  lamented  man  forced 
his  way  into  the  public  affection  by  the  power  of  his  virtues  and 
strength  of  his  talents  alone.  Careless  of  popularity,  a  great  and  good 
name  was  "  buckled  on  him  "  by  a  discriminating  people.    He  was  an 


cvi 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


agis  of  the  army ;  and  the  soldiery  looked  upon  him  with  admiration  and 
reverence  ;  love,  mixed  with  the  fear  of  offending  his  nice  ideas  of  right, 
governing  them  all.  He  was  a  severe  disciplinarian ;  but  had  the 
felicity  to  make  his  soldiers  assured  that  his  strictness  had  for  its  object 
their  glory — their  ease — their  preservation  and  safety.  With  a  miiul 
conscious  of  its  own  rectitude,  he  was  not  easily  diverted  from  his 
purpose ;  and  difficulty  only  invigorated  exertion.  To  all  the  sweet- 
ness of  a  familiar  friend,  he  added  a  strength  of  remark  and  pungency 
of  observation,  that  delighted  all  around  him.  Though  the  camp  was 
his  delight,  he  was  fitted  for  any  company ;  and  could  make  himself 
agreeable  on  every  proper  occasion.  His  courage  was  invincible,  for  it 
was  the  result  of  his  reason ;  and  his  death  is  a  proof  of  it.  The  pride 
of  his  countrymen  in  arms,  the  pattern  for  a  military  life,  he  fell,  at  the 
moment  of  victory,  on  the  first  opportunity  that  had  been  afforded  to 
reduce  to  practice  the  perfection  of  his  theory — "  but  he  fell  like  a  man." 
His  transcendent  qualities  were  opening  to  the  view ;  but  they  were 
nipped  in  the  bud  by  the  base  stratagem  of  a  beaten  foe.**  His  name  is 
unperishable ;  and  will  descend  to  posterity  with  the  Warrens,  Mont- 
gomerys  and  Woosters,  of  the  other  war.  Though  d-ad,  he  shall  yet 
speak  to  the  army  of  the  United  States.    His  scheme  of  tactics  and 

**  This  is  but  a  mild  sample  of  the  epithets  by  which  Sheaffe's  firing  of  the 
magazine  was  stigmatized  in  phrases  current  at  a  time  when  invective  was  invoked 
till  language  was  exhausted.  In  the  cooling  of  overheated  passions  a  sense  of 
humor  stole  in  to  the  relief  of  surcharged  feelings,  and  execration  of  the  shock- 
ing catastrophe  subsided  from  the  sublime  to  the  ridiculous.  "  And  it  was  not 
until  after  the  capture  of  Fort  George,"  says  Whiting,  p.  306,  "  that  this  explo- 
sion ceased  to  haunt,  like  a  dreadful  spectre,  the  American  army.  While  pre- 
paring for  that  capture,  it  seemed  to  be  a  settled  conviction  in  the  mind  of  the 
commander-in  chief,  that  explosions  were  to  be  the  ordinary  means  of  warfare 
with  the  British.  On  the  point  opposite  Fort  Niagara,  and  not  far  from  Fort 
George,  stood  a  lighthouse,  which  was  made  of  stone.  The  common  impression 
was,  that  these  stones  were  to  be  discharged  upon  our  heads  whenever  we  made 
the  attempt  to  land  ;  it  being  taken  for  granted  that  we  should  land  between 
that  and  a  neighboring  wood,  as  the  open  grounds  there  were  completely  com- 
manded by  the  guns  of  our  fort.  Many  British  deserters  came  over  during  the 
month  which  elapsed  between  the  capture  of  York  and  Fort  George.  The 
question  asked  of  each  was,  whether  the  lighthouse  were  mined.  No  answer 
intimated  that  it  was  ;  still  it  was  determined  to  land  at  a  safe  distance  from  it, 

.'•ugh  the  point  chosen  afforded  the  enemy  an  excellent  cover,  where  his 
.  itncs  could  be  silenced  only  by  our  vessels.  After  the  landing  had  been 
'1      I  il,  the  ligjithouse  was  approached  by  stragglers  with  much  caution,  until 

t,  •  :,,^»,  more  hardy  or  more  curious  than  the  rest,  entering  into  it,  found 

■         .is  recesses,  instead  of  a  Guy  Fawkes,  some  women  and  children,  who 
'ai>^<-  tt-ici-n  shelter  there  from  the  dangers  of  the  day." 


MEMCR  OF  ZEBaLON  MONTGOMERV  HKE. 


cvii 


practice  of  discipline  shall  be  f  h«      •.    • 

has  ieft  5ehi„,  J,,  man    a^l S'Tchl  ''^  ^°''""'^  -'"'■    He 
;olcls  her  seat."  shall  teach  hisTu  es    n     ^k'"'  ^'^°'  "  ^^ile  memory 
em  as  Ia„dmari<s  whereby  to  govern  The       ;'' '"'  ''"^'^y  Preserve 
lustnous  dead  are  not  lost      HrboTv  ^T  ^^"  '"'^"''^  °^  ^'^ 

'-gallant  spirit  taken  its  flight  to  Him  tS^      """'"'  ^°  "^^  '"'"b.  and 
''ve.  and  be  with  us.  many  generation"         ^'"  '-''"'  '^'^  ^^'-s  shall 

;at,on  of  the  strong  hold  GcnZZZ     "'''  '"  '"""'^'^  '""- 
lie  sentiment :  "^'^^  ^'^^  acquired  upon  pub- 

offererbyth^nLagrrs'o'^fTheB:^^      notice  a  humble  mark  of  resoect 
the  memory  of  the  gl.erl      The    "T  ^''^'"-  '-^  ^^  --"ngs  I^o'  to 
several  spectacles  assigned  in  honor  ",^1  "■°^'"'  '"  '^""sequence  of 
-"ore  brigade^.     Between  thlser    ,        ■ '  '''^  ^"'^  ""^^iew  of  the  miti 
;7  slowly,  but   unex  ecle  .y^s    -''r''^^^^°^^'^^P'^ythe:    : 
a    f.y  obehsk  on  which  was  i n'cWbed  ''ZmII  "'"^"'  ""^'  ^^''ibited 
Fel  glonously  before  York-March  FA orm    ,"     ^'  '''■'■^"^''■^•-  ^'-"eral- 
of  the  monument  was  that  eleJn    1  .      ^  ^'  '^'3-"    ^n  the  left  hand 
Columbia  armed,  kneeling  of ^f^^^^i^^'Mrs.  G-een.  in  chara  t  r  as 
spear  to  the  name  of  the  hero      »'.'.         '''"'''^'^  P°'"ting  with  her 

solemn  majesty  of  woe  "    Tu     '^"'"'^''  'mniovably  fixed    ••  ;„  .ii  ,5 

^^hich  did  not  interrupt  the  »Ie-,J„         ,  ''°"'^'  '"'e  music  excented 

--ess  :  but  soon  the  fe   i  gs  •;7f,r''"'?°'''  '^>'-y  ■"-timed    oStt.' 

Resolved  That 


1 1 


I  ; 


Mf.: 


I 


cvm 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


of  the  American  nation  ;  tlie  propriety  of  adopting,  as  the  peculiar 
children  of  the  Republic,  the  sons  of  those  distinguished  heroes ;  and 
the  propriety  of  making  provision  for  the  support  and  comfort  of  the 
families  of  these  deceased  officers. 

Among  the  many  measures  which  were  adopted  to 
honor  General  Pike's  name  and  fame,  there  is  perhaps 
none  more  marked  than  the  action  of  the  officers  of 
the  regiment  of  which  he  was  the  colonel.  We  have  a 
glimpse  of  the  hearts  that  still  beat  for  him  in  the  pro- 
ceedings recorded  in  the  Register  of  May  14th,  18 14,  VI. 

p. 176: 

Burlington,  April  29, 1S14. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Board  of  Honor  of  the  15th,  or  Pike's  regiment 
held  on  the  24th  inst.,  it  was  resolved,  that  the  following  articles  of  the 
constitution  governing  said  Board  be  carried  into  effect. — "  Article  2(1. 
Each  succeeding  27th  April,  the  day  on  which  the  immortal  Pike  fell; 
the  standard  will  be  dressed  in  mourning ;  each  officer  to  wear  crape, 
and  all  unnecessary  duties  dispensed  with  during  the  day,  as  a  token  of 
respect  for  our  departed  friend  and  commander,"  and  that  captain 
Vandalsem,  captain  Barton,  and  lieutenant  Goodwin  be  a  committee  of 
arrangement  for  the  day." 

Agreeably  to  the  above  resolution,  the  regiment  formed  at  eleven 
o'clock  a.  m.  on  the  grand  parade,  and  proceeded  in  funeral  order 
through  town,  to  the  court  house  square,  and  from  thence  through  Pearl 
street,  to  the  cantonment,  where  by  the  request  of  the  commanding 
officer,  lieutenant  Goodwin  delivered  the  following  pertinent  address : 

Fellow  soldiers — Thus  far  have  we  solemnized  this  day  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  immortal  father  of  our  regiment,  our  beloved  Pike.  When 
our  political  horizon  was  darkened  by  the  confusion  that  pervaded  tiie 
whole  world,  he  was  among  the  first  that  advanced  to  meet  our  barba- 
rous and  unjust  enemy.  Stimulated  by  a  love  of  country,  and  a  thirst 
for  glory,  he  solicited  with  ardor,  the  honor  of  facing  the  enemy's  ijat- 
teries  on  all  occasions,  he  panted  to  invade  in  the  just  cause  of  his 

"  Henry  H.  Van  Dalsem  of  New  Jersey  became  a  captain  of  the  i5ih 
Infantry  Mar.  I2th,  1812,  and  resigned  June  15th,  1815. 

Joseph  L.  Barton  of  New  Jersey  was  appointed  a  first  lieutenant  of  the  15th 
Infantry  Mar.  12th,  1812,  promoted  to  be  captain  July  30th,  1812,  and  honor- 
ably discharged  June  15th,  1815. 

Abraham  Godwin  of  New  Jersey  was  appointed  a  second  lieutenant  of  the 
15th  Infantry  Mar.  12th,  1812,  became  first  lieutenant  May  13th,  1813,  a"d 
was  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815. 


MEMOIR  OF   ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


CIX 


country,  and  lived  with  the  lively  hope  of  perpetuating  our  freedom  and 
handing  it  down  unpolluted  to  future  generations. 

As  an  officer,  the  remotest  corners  of  our  country  are  filled  with  his 
fame.  Let  the  learned  record  his  deeds,  and  let  us  improve  tlie  princi- 
ples he  has  left  imprinted  in  our  minds,  and  like  him  live  but  "  for  honor 
and  happiness  in  this  life,  and  fame  after  death."  Nor  let  us  confound 
him  with  the  list  of  ordinary  heroes.  He  will  compare  with  [Joseph] 
Warren  and  [Richard]  Montgomery,  for  like  them  he  fell  at  the  head  of 
his  column,  bravely  fighting  in  his  country's  cause. 

With  body  shattered  by  an  inhuman  and  unequalled  explosion,  he 
smiled  in  death,  while  our  flag  waved  triumphant  in  his  sight,  and 
expired  without  regret,  on  a  pillow  purchased  with  his  life. 

May  the  omnipotent  hand  which  directs  all  things,  cause  his  spirit  to 
hover  around  our  councils  in  the  field,  and  at  all  times  be  with  his  beloved 
regiment. 

After  which  the  regiment  fired  three  voUies  and  retired  to  their 
quarters. 

White  Youngs."  capt  15th  inf. 

President  of  the  Board, />ro  tent. 
Danl.  E.  BurcH"  It.  15th  inf. 

Secretary  of  the  Board, /)ro  tent. 


Within  some  months,  probably,  of  General  Pike's  death, 
a  man-of-war  was  named  in  his  honor.  The  Register  for 
Aug.  7th,  1813,  p.  374,  describes  it:  "The  General  Pike  is 
a  strong,  stout,  and  well  built  vessel.  Length  on  deck  140 
feet,  beam  37  feet,  burthen  about  900  tons— has  14  ports  on 
a  side,  and  carries  on  the  main  deck  long  24's — has  also  long 
24's  on  the  forecastle  and  poop,  (one  each),  moving  on  a 

"  White  Youngs  of  New  York  was  made  a  captain  of  the  15th  Infantry 
Mar.  I2th,  1812  ;  transferred  to  the  8th  Infantry  May  17th,  1815  ;  brevetted 
major  Sept.  nth,  1814,  for  gallant  conduct  at  Plattsburgh,  N.  Y.;  resigned 
Mar.  8th,  i8ig,  and  died  Dec.  8th,  1822. 

"  Daniel  E.  Burch  of  New  Jersey  was  appointed  f:om  that  State  ensign  in 
the  15th  Infantry  Oct.  7th,  1812  ;  became  third  '.ieutenant  Mar.  13th,  1813, 
and  second  lieutenant  Aug.  15th,  1813  :  he  was  regimental  paymaster  from 
Mar.  12th,  1814,  to  June  15th,  1815,  and  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815. 
He  re-entered  the  service  as  second  lieutenant  of  the  7th  Infantry  Jan.  5th, 
1S17  ;  became  first  lieutenant  June  7th,  1817,  and  captain  June  30th,  1820; 
acted  as  assistant  quartermaster  from  Oct.  25th,  1822,  to  June  27th,  1831  ; 
resigned  Apr.  30th,  1833,  and  died  May  8th,  1833. 


i   ^i 


ex 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


circle,  and  four  guns  on  her  top  gallant  forecastle ;  in  all 
34  guns."  General  A.  W.  Greely,  who  interested  himself  to 
procure  the  information,  tells  me  that  this  frigate,  a  twin 
ship  with  the  Madison,  was  built  in  63  days  and  launched  on 
Lake  Ontario,  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  where  she  barely  escaped 
destruction  by  fire,  owing  to  the  mistaken  zeal  of  an  officer 
who  applied  the  torch,  supposing  the  American  victory  to 
be  a  defeat ;  and  that  it  does  not  appear  that  the  vessel  was 
ever  brought  into  action. 

I  have  already  alluded  to  the  Fort  Pike  on  Lake  Ontario. 
There  was  another  Fort  Pike,  the  name  of  which  still  finds 
place  in  current  gazetteers.  This  was  a  military  post  on 
Petites  Coquilles  island,  in  Orleans  parish,  Louisiana,  35 
miles  E.  N.  E.  of  New  Orleans.  While  it  is  not  probable 
that  all  the  counties,  towns,  etc.,  called  "  Pike  "  were  named 
for  our  hero,  certainly  most  of  them  bear  his  own  name, 
alone  or  in  combination  or  composition.  There  is  a  Pike 
county  in  Alabama,  Arkansas,  Georgia,  Illinois,  Indiana, 
Kentucky,  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Ohio,  and  Pennsylvania. 
There  are  about  20  Pike  townships  in  different  counties  of 
Indiana,  Kansas,  Missouri,  Ohio,  and  Pennsylvania.  Pike 
is  the  name  of  several  small  places  in  Illinois,  New  York, 
North  Carolina,  and  Ohio.  Pike  City  is  a  village  in  Sierra 
Co.,  Cal.  Pike  Creek  is  a  township  of  Shannon  Co.,  Mo., 
and  another  township,  of  Morrison  Co.,  Minn.,  besides  des- 
ignating the  stream  itself  which  flows  through  the  latter: 
see  beyond,  pp.  104,  123,  316.  Pike  Five  Corners  is  a 
hamlet  of  Wyoming  Co.,  N.  Y.  Pikeland  is  a  station  on 
the  Pickering  Valley  R.  R.,  in  Chester  Co.,  Pa.  Pike  Mills 
is  a  hamlet  in  Pike  township.  Potter  Co.,  Pa.  Pike  rapids 
are  those  in  the  Mississippi,  otherwise  Knife  rapids  :  see  pp. 
100,  104,  122.  Pike's  bay  is  the  gulf  at  the  southern  part  of 
Cass  lake:  see  pp.  157,  158,  324.  Pike's  fork  of  the  Arkan- 
saw  river,  is  present  Grape  creek :  see  pp.  463,  482.  Pike's 
island,  in  the  Mississippi  at  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota 
river,  is  historic :  see  pp.  76,  197,  239.  Pike's  mountain  is 
the  range  of  bluffs  opposite   Prairie  du  Chien  :  see  p.  37- 


MEMOIR  OF   ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


CXI 


Pike's  Peak  is  not  only  the  famous  mountain  so  called, 
but  a  hamlet  in  Brown  Co.,  Ind.,  a  hamlet  in  Wayne 
Co.,  Mich.,  and  a  mining-camp  in  Deer  Lodge  Co., 
Mont.  Pike  Station  is  a  village  in  Wayne  Co.,  O. 
Piketon  is  a  hamlet  in  Stoddard  Co.,  Mo.,  and  a  village 
in  Pike  Co.,  O.  Piketon  or  Pikeville  is  the  capital  of  Pike 
Co.,  Ky.  Pikesville  or  Pikeville  is  a  village  in  Balti- 
more Co.,  Md.;  a  hamlet  in  Pike  township,  Berks  Co., 
Pa.;  the  capital  of  Marion  Co.,  Ala. ;  a  post-office  of 
Pike  Co.,  Ind. ;  a  hamlet  in  Pikeville  township,  Wayne 
Co.,  N.  C. ;  a  village  in  Darke  Co.,  O.;  and  the  capital  of 
Bledsoe  Co.,  Tenn.  Some  of  these  places  are  no  doubt 
named  for  other  persons  of  the  same  surname  ;  some  are 
called  for  the  pike,  a  fish,  as  is  the  case  with  several 
Pike  rivers,  creeks,  or  ponds  not  included  in  the  above 
list ;  and  some  may  refer  to  a  turnpike  road,  or  have  yet 
another  implication. 

To  those  of  the  foregoing  geographical  and  political 
names  which  commemorate  our  hero  is  to  be  added  the 
designation  of  "  Pikes"  as  an  epithet  of  the  "  Forty-niners  " 
and  later  emigrants  who  navigated  the  great  plains  with 
their"  prairie  schooners."  Thus  Mr.  Prentis,  in  the  address 
already  cited,  says,  pp.  193,  194: 


To  these  people  thus  described,  and  to  all  who  bore  to  them  a  family 
resemblance,  and  who  in  1849  and  in  subsequent  years  crossed  the  Plains 
to  California,  came  to  be  applied,  by  whom  I  know  not,  the  general  name  of 
"  Pikes."  Various  explanations  have  been  given  of  the  origin  of  the  name. 
The  most  reasonable  one  is,  that,  there  are  in  Missouri  and  Illinois  two 
\avp;e  counties  named  Pike,  and  separated  from  each  other  by  the 
Mississippi  river.  In  1849  an  immense  emigration  set  in  from  these 
counties  to  California.  In  consequence,  the  traveler  bound  for  the  States, 
meeting  teams,  and  asking  the  usual  question,  "  Where  are  you  from  ?  " 
was  answered  frequently  with,  "  Pike  county  "  meaning  in  some  cases 
one  Pike  county,  in  some  cases  the  other.  This  led  to  the  general 
impression  that  ever>'body  on  the  road  was  from  Pike  county,  or  that  the 
inhabitants  of  Pike  had  all  taken  the  road.  Hence  the  general  name 
of  "  Pikes,"  as  applied  to  emigrants,  especially  to  those  traveling  from 
Missouri,  and,  generally,  those  migrating  from  southern  Illinois  and 


!     I 


n 


CXIl 


Ml  MOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY  PIKE. 


southern  Indiana.    Thus  the  popular  song — the  only  poetry  I  ever  heard 
of  applied  to  this  class  of  "  movers,"  commences  : 

"  My  name  it  is  Joe  Bowers, 
I've  got  a  brotlier  Ike  ; 
I'm  bound  for  Californy, 
And  I'm  all  the  way  from  Pike." 

Pike  County,  111.,  and  Pike  County,  Mo.,  are  certainly 
both  named  for  the  general,  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  Mr. 
Prentis'  explanation  of  "  Pikes  "  is  correct.  With  the  above 
doggerel  compare  the  slang  phrase  noted  beyond,  p.  454, 
and  duly  legended  as  the  head-line  of  p.  457. 

Another  curious  word,  to  which  Pike  has  given  rise 
indirectly,  is  "  Peaker,"  as  a  designation  of  persons  who 
came  to  the  vicinity  of  Pike's  Peak.  Thus,  we  read  in 
Colonel  Meline's  book,  p.  89:  "Most  of  the  people  who 
have  settled  on  these  farms  [between  Colorado  Springs  and 
Denver]  were  disappointed  '  Peakers' — either  those  who  had 
thrown  down  the  shovel  to  take  up  the  plough,  or  those 
who,  with  exhausted  means,  found  a  long  mountain  journey 
still  before  them  after  they  had  reached  the  Peak." 

There  is  a  sameness  about  the  many  published  portraits 
of  Pike  which  shows  that  they  were  probably  all  taken  from 
one  original  painting.  Lossing's  cut  looks  a  little  different 
from  the  rest,  as  it  faces  the  other  way,  but  it  is  the  same 
picture  reversed  in  copying,  no  doubt  with  the  camera 
lucida.  There  is  no  mistaking  the  extremely  long,  large 
nose,  above  the  full  compressed  lips,  denoting  tie  forceful 
character  which  Pike  displayed  conspicuously  throughout 
his  career,  whether  in  leading  a  handful  of  men  through 
an  unbroken  wilderness,  or  in  heading  the  columns  which 
assaulted  an  intrenched  foe.  The  same  uniform  coat,  with  its 
epaulets,  its  high  standing,  embroidered  collar,  unbuttoned 
across  thv.  breast  and  the  flap  turned  down  on  one  side, 
appears  in  all  these  likenesses.  Such  are  inserted  in  some 
of  the  editions  of  Pike's  work ;  one  of  the  reproductions 
forms  the  frontispiece  of  an  early  popular  history  of  the 


MEMOIR  OF  ZEBULON   MONTGOMERY   PIKE. 


CXlll 


war,  and  is  called  "  a  striking  likeness  "on  the  title  page. 
They  are  all  doubtless  traceable  to  the  painting  which  has 
long  hung  and  still  hangs  in  the  historical  gallery  of  Inde- 
pendence Hall  at  Philadelphia,  alongside  the  portraits  of 
Meriwether  Lewis,  William  Clark,  and  many  other  noble 
men  who  loved  and  lived  for  their  country.  The  painting 
which  hangs  in  one  o^  the  rooms  of  the  Minnesota  Histori- 
cal Society  at  St.  Paul  is  believed  to  be  a  copy  of  this, 
though  it  differs  in  the  introduction  of  a  spirit  hand,  ex- 
tended from  an  invisible  arm,  holding  a  wreath  over  the 
head — an  attempt  at  symbolism  in  which  the  unknown 
artist  has  not  been  very  successful.  This  portrait  is  dim 
and  much  cracked.  I  am  informed  by  Mr.  William  M. 
Maguire  of  Denver,  that  a  prominent  citizen  of  Colorado 
has  recently  executed  a  bronze  bust  of  Pike,  to  be  placed  in 
Manitou.  Facsimiles  of  Pike's  signature  are  seldom  seen 
in  print ;  Lossing  gives  one  with  the  portrait  on  p.  586  of 
his  Field  Book.  I  am  not  aware  that  any  facsimile  of  a 
letter  in  Pike's  handwriting  has  hitherto  been  published. 
That  one  which  is  given  in  the  present  volume  was  selected 
from  among  many  I  have  examined  in  the  archives  of  the 
War  Department,  both  for  its  intrinsic  historical  interest, 
and  for  the  unusually  well-formed  signature  it  bears — that 
of  one  who  died,  as  he  had  lived,  for  his  country — of  one 
whose  fame  that  country  will  never  permit  to  perish. 


1«* 


m 


PIKE'S  EXPEDITIONS. 


part  f . 

THE  MISSISSIPPI  VOYAGE. 


'■'■V.I 


i 


CHAPTER  I. 

ITINERARY  :  ST.  LOUIS  TO  ST.  PAUL,  AUGUST  QTH- 
SEPTEMBER  2IST,  1805. 

SAILED  from  my  encampment,  near  St.  Louis,  at  4 
p.  m.,  on  Friday,  the  9th  of  August,  1805,  with  one  ser- 
geant, two  corporals,  and  17  privates,  in  a  keel-boat  70  feet 
long,  provisioned  for  four  months.  Water  very  rapid.  En- 
camped on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  at  the  head  of  an 
island.' 
Aug.  loth.    Embarked  early;    breakfasted   opposite  the 

'  Roster  of  the  party :  i.  Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike,  ist  lieut.  1st  regt.  U.  S. 
Infantry,  comdg. — 2.  Non-comm.  officers:  (i)  Ser<jeant  Henry  Kennerman,* 
(2)  Corporal  Samuel  Bradley  ;  (3)  Corporal  William  E.  Meek. — 3.  Privates  :  (i) 
John  Boley  ;  (2)  Peter  Branden  ;  (3)  John  Brown  ;  (4)  Jacob  Carter  ;  (5)  Thomas 
Dougherty  ;  (6)  William  Gorden  ;  (7)  Solomon  Huddleston  ;  (8)  Jeremiah  Jack- 
son ;  (9)  Hugh  Menaugh ;  (10)  Theodore  Miller;  (11)  John  Mountjoy  ;  (12) 
David  Owings  ;  (13)  Alexander  Roy  ;  (14)  Patrick  Smith  ;  (15)  John  Sparks  ; 
(16)  Freegift  Stoute  ;  (17)  David  Whelply.  This  detail  for  detached  service 
was  made  July  1st,  1805  ;  returned  Apr.  30th,  1806,  without  change,  except- 
ing Bradley  promoted,  vice  Kennerman  reduced  to  the  ranks.  Voyage  of  the 
gth  was  between  St.  Louis  Co.,  Mo.,  and  Madison  Co.,  111.,  past  Caberet's 
isl.  to  camp  on  Illinois  side  at  head  of  Chouteau's  isl. 

The  above  roster  of  the  Mississippi  Expedition  is  derived  from  the  Return  of 
Persons,  etc.,  which  formed  a  part  of  one  of  the  Papers  accompanying  a  Con- 
gressional Committee   Report  which  was  given   as   No.  6,  pp.  64-68  of  the 


2  DU   BOIS  OR  WOOD   RIVER. 

mouth  of  the  Missouri,  near  Wood  creek."  About  5  p.  m. 
a  storm  came  on  from  the  westward  ;  the  boat  lay-to.  Hav- 
ing gone  out  to  march  with  two  men  behind  a  cluster  of 
islands,  one  of  my  soldiers  swam  a  channel  in  the  night,  to 
inform  me  that  the  boat  had  stopped  during  the  storm.  I 
remained  on  the  beach  all  night.  Distance  28^2  miles.' 
Sunday,  Aug.  nth.    In  the  morning  the  boat  came  up  and 

Appendix  to  Part  3  of  the  orig.  ed.  of  this  work.     It  appears  in  full,  in   its 
proper  connection,  at  or  near  the  end  of  the  main  text  of  the  present  edition. 

The  letter  of  instructions  from  General  Wilkinson,  dated  St.  Louis,  July 
30th,  1805,  in  obedience  to  which  Lieutenant  Pike  proceeded  upon  the  Mis- 
sissippi Expedition,  likewise  formed  one  of  the  Papers  accompanying  the  same 
Congressional  Committee  Report.  It  was  given  nowhere  else  in  the  orig. 
ed.  of  this  book  ;  though  the  corresponding  instructions  Pike  received  for  his 
second  (Arkansaw)  Expedition  were  prefixed  to  the  main  text  of  his  narrative. 
The  Mississippi  order  appears  in  full,  in  its  original  position,  near  the  end  of 
the  main  text  of  the  present  edition. 

'Or  Du  Bois  r.,  Madison  Co.,  111.,  notable  in  history  as  that  at  whose 
mouth  Lewis  and  Clark  had  their  winter  camp  of  1803-4,  whence  their  expedi- 
tion started  May  14th,  1804.  At  this  date  it  was  said  to  be  opp.  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri ;  it  is  now  opp.  the  large  Mobile  isl.  and  the  Missouri  enters  2  m. 
below  Wood  r. ,  through  the  Arriazon  bend. 

'  In  undertaking  to  follow  a  traveler,  the  first  thing  to  ascertain  is  his  "  per- 
sonal equation" — i.  e.,  the  probable  error  of  his  mileages.  Pike  traveled  en- 
tirely by  his  watch,  and  all  his  distances  are  guesses  based  upon  rate  of  prog- 
ress— so  many  hours,  so  many  miles.  •  The  way  to  approximate  accuracy  in  this 
matter  is  to  take  him  between  two  fixed  points  whose  actual  distance  apart  is 
ascertained,  see  what  he  makes  of  this,  and  adjust  him  accordingly.  From  ?\ 
Louis  to  Keokuk,  by  the  present  usual  steamboat  channel  of  the  Miss,  r.,  is 
202^  m.;  say  to  the  foot  of  Des  Moines  rapids,  roundly  200  m.  Pike's  fig- 
ures, as  nearly  as  these  can  be  got  at,  make  this  distance  about  250  m.  Hence 
we  must  discount  his  mileages  20  per  cent,  or  one-fifth,  as  a  rule.  Taking  one 
thing  with  another — changes  in  the  channel  in  the  course  of  the  century,  good 
or  bad  water.  Pike's  own  feelings,  errors  of  manuscript  or  print,  etc.,  we  shall 
find  this  deduction  to  work  well  ;  with  the  aid  of  such  topographical  data  as  we 
have,  it  will  enable  us  to  set  most  of  his  camps  pretty  closely.  On  the  loth, 
Pike  gets  leu  to  bivouac  on  the  bank  at  a  point  in  Jersey  Co.,  111.,  opposite 
Portage  des  Sioux,  Mo.,  his  barge  being  storm-bound  somewhere  above  Alton, 
111.,  perhaps  in  the  vicinity  of  Clifton  or  Randolph.  The  distance  between 
Alton,  first  notable  point  above  the  Mo.  r.,  and  Grafton,  last  notable  point  be- 
low the  Illinois  r.,  is  16  m.  Besides  Alton  and  Clifton,  places  passed  on  the  N. 
side  are  Shields'  branch.  Hop  Hollow,  Falling  Rock  cr.,  and  Piasa  cr. — some  of 
the  present  isls.  above  Mobile  isl.  are  Maple,  Ellis,  Search's,  Piasa,  and  Eagle's 
Nest — the  latter  off  Portage  des  Sioux. 


SIOUX   PORTAGE — ILLINOIS  RIVER. 


stopped  opposite  the  Portage  De  Sioux/  We  here  spread 
out  our  baggage  to  dry ;  discharged  our  guns  at  a  target, 
and  scaled  out  our  blunderbusses.  Dined  at  the  cave  below 
the  Illinois,  at  the  mouth  of  which  river  we  remained  some 
time.  From  the  course  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Illinois' 
might  be  mistaken  for  a  part  of  it.     Encamped   on   the 

*  Portage  des  Sioux  (or  de  Sioux)  is  that  place  in  St.  Charles  Co.,  Mo.,  where 
the  Mo.  r.  comes  nearest  to  the  Miss.  r.  before  their  confluence.  It  was  the 
site  of  an  early  settlement  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Miss,  r.,  one  Fran9ois  Sau- 
cier having  first  built  on  the  spot,  1769  or  1770  ;  the  village  was  already  there 
in  Pike's  time,  and  still  perpetuates  the  old  F.  name  of  the  hostile  Sioux's  cross- 
ing-place {ca.  1780)  between  the  two  great  rivers,  also  called  Sioux  Portage  or 
Portage  of  the  Sioux  :  see  Beck's  Gaz. ;  or  Wetmore's,  p.  254. 

'  First  great  tributary  of  the  Miss.  r.  above  the  Mo.  r.,  falling  in  at  Calhoun 
pt.,  Calhoun  Co.,  111.,  opp.  Camden,  Jersey  Co.,  111.;  Mason's  isl.  the  largest 
one  of  several  more  in  the  Miss.  r.  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  111.  r.  In  com- 
ing S.  the  Miss.  r.  makes  a  great  bend  E.  and  then  nearly  N.  to  the  confluence, 
wlience  it  turns  again  to  a  course  approx.  coincident  with  that  which  the  111.  r. 
holds ;  hence  Pike's  remark  that  the  one  might  be  mistaken  for  a  part  of  the 
other.  The  river  has  had  many  names  ;  the  present  is  in  form  a  French  plural, 
sc.  Riviere  des  Illinois,  sc.  of  the  people  who  lived  on  it — Illin,  Illini,  Illinoct, 
Illinoac,  Iilinoet,  Illiniwek,  Illeni,  Illenois,  Ilinois,  Islinois,  Islenois,  etc. 
Pike's  map  has  Illenois  ;  Franquelin's,  1688,  R.  des  Ilinois.  Another  aborig- 
inal name,  Theakiki,  Teakiki,  etc.,  whence  Kankakee,  was  applied  to  one  of 
the  branches  of  this  river.  The  111.  r.  sometimes  shared  the  name  St.  Louis 
with  the  Mississippi  and  the  Ohio.  It  was  called  R.  de  Seignelay  by  Hennepin, 
in  compliment  to  the  marquis  of  that  name  ;  and  once  known  as  the  Divine  r. 
The  importance  of  this  river  as  a  water-way  from  the  Great  Lakes  to  the  Missis- 
sippi is  second  only  to  that  of  the  Wisconsin,  and  would  be  first  if  the  long 
projected  connection  of  St.  Louis  with  Chicago  by  water  were  made.  The  use 
of  these  two  rivers  for  this  purpose  was  originally  almost  simultaneous  ;  for 
Joliet  and  Marquette  reached  the  Miss.  r.  from  Green  bay  by  the  Wise.  r.  June 
15th  or  17th,  1673,  came  down  the  Miss.  r.  past  the  mouth  of  the  111.  r.  in  July 
that  year,  continued  down  to  or  ntar  the  Arkansaw,  turned  up  the  Miss.  r.  July 
17th,  reached  the  111.  r.,  and  went  up  the  latter  to  L.  Michigan,  Aug.-Sept., 
1673.  One  of  Joliet's  maps,  1674,  clearly  shows  the  Wis.  r.  and  111.  r.  con- 
nections of  the  Miss.  r.  with  L.  Michigan  and  Green  bay  respectively.  Michael 
Accanlt's  party,  consisting  of  himself,  Antoine  Auguelle,  and  L.  Hennepin, 
dispatched  by  La  Salle  from  Fort  Crevecoeur  on  the  111.  r.,  Feb.  29th,  1680, 
reached  its  mouth  Mar.  7th,  1680 ;  La  Salle  did  the  same  himself  Feb.  6th, 
1682.  The  latter — one  of  the  very  greatest  -nen  in  the  early  history  of  Ameri- 
can discovery  and  exploration — came  upon  the  111.  r.  in  Dec,  1679,  and  made 
the  first  French  establishment  on  Lower  Mississippian  waters  in  Jan.,  i68o,  at 
the  Illinois  village  Pimetoui,  close  to  present  Peoria. 


iiiP 


t     ^1 


4  COPPER   RIVER — CAP  AU   GR£S. 

lower  point  of  an  island,'  about  six  miles  above  the  Illinois ; 
were  much  detained  by  passing  the  east  side  of  some  islands 
above  the  Illinois ;  and  were  obliged  to  get  into  the  water 
and  haul  the  boat  through. 

Aug.  I2th.  In  the  morning  made  several  miles  to  break- 
fast ;  about  3  o'clock  p.  m.  passed  Buffaloe  [Cuivre  or  Cop- 
per river]  or  riviere  au  Boeuf,  about  five  miles  above  which 
commences  a  beautiful  ceciar  cliff.  Having  passed  this,  the 
river  expands  to  nearly  two  m'les  in  width,  and  has  four 
islands,  whose  lowest  points  y.rf*  nearly  parallel ;  these  we 
called  the  Four  Brothers.  Enca.  v'^d  on  the  point  of  the 
east  one.  It  rained  very  hard  all  night.  Caught  one  cat- 
fish.   Distance  29^  miles.' 

Aug.  13th.  Late  before  we  sailed  ;  passed  a  vast  number 
of  islands ;  left  one  of  our  dogs  on  shore ;  were  much  de- 
tained  by  sand-bars,  and  obliged  to  haul  our  boat  over  sev- 


*  Among  the  islands  (or  their  modern  representatives)  past  which  Pike  strug- 
gled may  be  named  Perry,  Squaw,  Enterprise,  and  Iowa ;  the  present  channel 
is  W.  of  all  these  excepting  Squaw,  taking  through  Hatchet  chute  to  Rock  Idg. 
and  Milan,  Calhoun  Co.,  111.  That  island  whose  foot  is  now  nearest  6  m.  from 
the  Illinois  r.  is  Dardenne  ;  but  camp  was  more  probably  a  mile  short  of  this, 
where  is  now  Bolter's  isl. ,  as  it  is  called — properly  Boulder's. 

'  About  21  m..  Bolter's  isl.  to  the  Four  Brothers,  at  Cap  au  Gris.  The  pres- 
ent run  of  the  principal  islands  is :  Dardenne,  Two  Branch,  Criminal,  Peruque, 
Sweden,  all  below  the  mouth  of  Buffalo,  Copper  or  Cuivre  r.  Dardenne  cr. 
falls  in  on  the  left  hand  going  up,  right  bank,  opp.  the  island  of  that  name  ;  it 
appears  as  Dardonne  on  Owen's  map.  Peruque  cr.  occupies  a  correspond- 
ing position  opp.  Peruque  and  Sweden  isls. ;  Nicollet's  map  has  Perruque.  K. 
au  Cuivre  or  aux  Bceufs  of  the  French,  Copper  and  Buffalo  r.  of  others 
("Quiver"  r.  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  map,  1814),  is  a  large  stream  which 
courses  from  Montgomery  into  Lincoln  Co.,  Mo.,  and  then,  with  its  Big  cr. 
branch,  separates  the  latter  from  St.  Charles  Co. ;  it  falls  into  Cuivre  slough, 
which  cuts  off  Cuivre  isl.,  3  m.  long.  At  the  upper  end  of  this  slough  is 
the  mouth  of  the  creek  mapped  by  Nicollet  as  McLean's,  now  as  Bob,  Bobb, 
Bobs,  Bobbs,  etc. ,  cr.  Some  of  the  named  places  along  the  river  are  Brock's, 
Dixon's,  Fruitland,  Thomason's,  Beck's,  Two  Branch,  Martin's,  Hastings, 
Beech's,  and  Bogtown — all  insignificant,  mostly  mere  landings,  and  all  in  Cal- 
houn Co.,  111.,  excepting  Beck's.  Pike's  Four  Brothers  are  represented  by 
islands  Nos.  499,  500,  501,  and  502,  of  late  surveys,  not  now  abreast;  all  are 
small,  and  the  largest  one  is  called  Sarah  Ann.  Pike's  "  beautiful  cedar  cliff" 
is  Cap  au  Oris  rock,  opposite  a  hamlet  of  the  same  name  in  Lincoln  Co.,  Mo.; 


SAC  INDIANS — PADDLEFISH.  5 

eral  of  them  ;  observed  several  [Indian]  encampments  which 
had  been  lately  occupied.  Rained  all  day.  Distance  27 
miles.' 

Au£^.  i/fih.  Hard  rain  in  the  morning;  but  a  fine  wind 
springing  up,  we  put  off  at  half-past  six  o'clock.  Passed  a 
camp  of  Sacs,  consisting  of  three  men  with  their  families. 
They  were  employed  in  spearing  and  scaffolding  a  fish,* 
about  three  feet  in  length,  with  a  long  flat  snout ;  they 
pointed  out  the  channel,  and  prevented  us  from  taking  the 
wrong  one.  I  gave  them  a  small  quantity  of  whisky  and 
biscuit ;  and  they,  in  return,  presented  me  with  some  fish. 
Sailed  on  through  a  continuation  of  islands  for  nearly  20 


■W- 


if 

nil 


Dogtown,  111.,  is  under  the  cliff.  The  phrase  is  commonly  rendered  Cap  au 
Gre  or  Cap  au  Gris,  by  mistaking  F.  grh,  a  noun,  meaning  sandstone,  for  F. 
gris,  adj.,  gray.  Long  of  1817,  as  pub.  i860  and  again  1890,  has  a  Little  Cape 
Gris ;  Beltrami,  II.  p.  196,  renders  Great  Cape  Gray.  The  exact  distance  to 
this  place  from  Grafton  is  27  m. ;  from  Alton,  43  m. ;  from  St.  Lou)^  66  m, 

'Cap  au  Gr^s  to  Hamburg,  Calhoun  Co.,  111.,  22  m.;  river  crooked,  and 
channel  still  more  so ;  late  start  and  much  obstruction ;  Pike  may  hardly  have 
reached  Hamburg,  but  was  in  that  vicinity,  and  we  may  set  him  there,  in  the 
absence  of  any  datum  for  greater  precision.  The  "  vast "  number  of  islands  he 
passed  have  their  modern  representatives  in  such  as  :  Sandy,  2|^  m.  long,  with 
Turner's  near  it  ;  Stag  and  Maple,  abreast ;  Sterling ;  Westport,  3^  m.  long, 
with  Kickapoo  and  Kelly's  alongside  it.  Along  this  whole  way,  on  the  left 
hand  going  up,  in  Lincoln  Co.,  Mo.,  ruiis  a  long  slough  approx.  parallel  with 
the  river.  This  is  the  discharge  of  Bryant's  cr.,  which  approaches  the  river 
opp.  Hamburg,  gets  from  the  hills  and  runs  in  the  bottom  down  to  Sandy  isl.; 
it  is  called  Bayou  au  Roi  on  some  maps,  Bayou  Roy  on  others.  Nicollet  charts 
it  with  his  usual  accuracy,  but  without  name.  The  principal  places  passed  are 
the  villages  of  Sterling  and  Westport,  Lincoln  Co.,  Mo.;  Gilead,  back  up  on 
the  hill,  in  Calhoun  Co.,  111.;  lesser  ones  are  the  landings,  wood-piles,  or  what- 
not, called  Asbury,  Turner's,  Hogtown,  and  Red's.  The  St.  L.,  Keck,  and 
N.  W.  R.  R.  runs  in  the  bottom  along  the  bayou  ;  stations  Foley,  Apex,  Els- 
berry,  and  Dameron. 

'  Polyodon  spatula,  or  Spatularia  spatula,  the  paddlefish,  also  called  spoon- 
billed  cat  or  duck-billed  cat,  common  in  Mississippian  waters.  It  sometimes 
attains  a  length  of  5  or  6  feet ;  the  shape  resembles  that  of  the  sturgeon,  but 
tlic  skin  is  scaleless,  like  a  cat's.  One  of  the  Relations  ascribed  to  Hennepin, 
and  pub.  1697,  speaks  of  this  fish  as  the  "  long-beaked  sturgeon,"  and  says  it 
was  spawning  Apr.  24th.  Hennepin  doubtless  became  acquainted  with  it  when 
he  was  first  on  the  Mississippi,  under  Accault,  in  1680:  see,  e.g..  Shea's  Tr. 
of  Henp.,  1880,  p.  359. 


:h 


At;h 


6  PERSONS   MET — BAR   RIVER. 

miles ;  met  a  young  gentleman,  Mr.  Robedoux,"  by  whom 
I  sent  a  letter  to  St.  Louis ;  encamped  on  an  island  ;  caught 
1,375  small  fish.     Rained  all  day.     Distance  28  miles." 

Aug-.  15th.  Still  raining  in  the  morning.  From  the  con- 
tinued sciies  of  wet  weather,  the  men  were  quite  galled 
and  sore.  Met  a  Mr.  Kettletas  of  N.  Y,,  who  gave  me  a  line 
to  Mr.  Fisher  of  the  Prairie  Des  Chein  [du  Chien].  Passed 
a  small  [elsewhere  named  Bar]  river  to  the  W.,  with  a  sand- 

"*  Doubtless  one  of  tlie  brothers  mentioned  in  Lewis  and  Clark :  see  ed.  1893, 
pp.  1209,  1236,  1243. 

"  From  Hamburg  to  Ci  '.rkp  i'  e  t4^m.,  Louisiana  or  Louisianaville,  24 J^  ; 
Pike  went  about  20,  say  to  Kridei  's  bend,  and  his  camp  was  on  an  island  which 
we  may  take  to  be  th-^t  now  called  Krider's,  6  m.  above  Clarksville,  4  m.  be- 
low Louisiana.  The  "  continup''in  of  '"^'  ',;'s"  is  now  the  following  in  ascend- 
ing series,  omitting  about  a  dozen  oinfdl  ones ;  Hosier's  or  Mozier's,  and  How- 
ard's, together,  the  former  i^  m.  long ;  Tilden's  ;  McCoy's  or  Cock  ;  Slim  and 
Grimes,  the  former  3^  m.  long ;  Coon,  i  m. ;  Carroll's  or  Carle's,  i  %  ;  Amar- 
anth, small ;  Eagle,  i  m.;  Clarksville,  2  m.,  opposite  the  town  ;  Pharr's,  i^  m.; 
and  Krider's,  I  m.  Above  Mosier's  isl.  and  Idg.,  on  the  E.,  is  the  outlet  of 
Hamburg  bay,  3^  m.  above  the  town  ;  Bay  cr.  falls  into  it.  Behind  Slim  isl. 
is  the  chute  of  that  name,  into  which  falls  the  large  creek  called  Guin's,  Guinn's, 
Gwin's,  etc.;  and  at  the  head  of  the  island  is  the  mouth  of  Ramsey's  cr., 
another  large  one.  These  streams  are  both  in  Pike  Co.,  Mo.;  and  as  soon  as 
Pike  passes  opposite  Clarksville  he  has  Pike  Co.,  111.,  on  his  right,  so  that  he 
sails  many  miles  with  a  county  of  his  own  on  each  side.  Clarksville,  Mo.,  is 
something  of  a  town,  on  the  edge  of  the  river,  under  the  hill  around  which 
Calumet  cr.  comes  to  fall  in  just  above  ;  and  3  m.  higher  comes  Little  Calumet 
cr.  on  the  same  side.  Opposite  Clarksville  is  the  lower  opening  of  that  im- 
mense slough  whose  character  is  not  less  remarkable  than  its  name.  This  runs 
for  more  than  30  m.  alongside  the  river,  clear  through  Pike  Co.,  111.,  and  into 
Adams  Co. ,  forming  a  maze  of  channels  which  intersect  one  another  and  thus 
cut  off  various  islands,  besides  opening  into  the  Mississippi  at  several  places ; 
some  of  these  lesser  sloughs  are  called  Spring  Lake,  Atlas,  Cocklebur,  Swift, 
Coon,  Mud,  Five  Points,  Crooked,  Running,  and  Swan.  This  collateral  water- 
course also  receives  a  series  of  creeks,  among  which  are  those  called  Big  or  Big 
Stew,  Six  Mile,  Honey  or  Hadley,  Ashton  or  Fall,  and  Harkiess.  This  whole 
affair  is  commonly  called  the  Snicarty  or  Sny  Carte  ;  it  is  Suycartee  Slough  on 
Owen's  map,  and  has  other  variants  too  numerous  to  recount.  All  these  words 
or  phrases  are  perversions  of  F.  Chenal  Ecarte,  lit.  cut-off  channel.  For  this 
and  the  corresponding  formation  of  the  name  Sniabar  or  Snibar,  given  to  a 
creek  and  town  in  Missouri,  see  my  note,  N.  Y.  Nation,  Jan.  19th,  1893,  and 
Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  1893,  p.  29.  The  embankment  built  to  defend  the 
river  from  the  slough  is  known  as  the  Sny  levee. 


I'  t 


'•\'4 


■  ■Hi 


SALT  RIVER — HURRICANE  ISLAND.  7 

bar  at  its  entrance ;  also,  passed  Salt  [elsewhere  called 
Oahahah]  river,  which  I  do  not  recollect  having  seen  on 
any  chart ;  it  is  a  considerable  stream,  and  at  high  water  is 
navigable  for  at  least  200  miles.  Left  another  dog.  Dis- 
tance 26  miles." 

Aug:  i6th.  Embarked  early,  but  were  so  unfortunate  as 
to  get  fast  on  a  log ;  and  did  not  extricate  ourselves  until 
past  eleven  o'clock,  having  to  saw  off  a  log  under  the  water. 
At  three  o'clock  arrived  at  the  house  of  a  Frenchman,  sit- 
uate on  the  W.  side  of  the  river,  opposite  Hurricane  island. 
His  cattle  appeared  to  be  in  fine  order,  but  his  corn  in  a 


m 


■p 


"About  20  m.,  setting  Pike  in  the  vicinity  of  Cincinnati,  Pike  Co.,  111.; 
camp  perhaps  a  little  beyond  this  town,  but  just  about  opposite  the  boundary 
between  Pike  Co.,  Mo.,  and  Ralls  Co.,  Mo.  On  the  Illinois  side  we  have  noth- 
ing worthy  of  note  but  the  snaky  Snicarty,  back  of  which  are  the  villages  Atlas 
and  Rockport.  But  the  Missouri  side  oiTers  some  interesting  things.  On  decamp- 
ing from  Krider's  isl..  Pike  passes  in  quick  succession  two  creeks,  Louisiana  and 
Salt  river,  all  on  his  left,  all  within  6  m.  I.  Pike  elsewhere  cites  both  these  creeks, 
and  says-  the  first  of  them  is  the  one  he  calls  Bar  r. ;  this  is  now  Buffalo 
cr.,  falling  in  2  m.  below  Louisiana ;  the  bar  at  its  mouth,  whence  the  name, 
is  present  Buffalo  isl.  2.  The  next  creek  is  that  immediately  above,  whose 
mouth  is  Louisiana  ;  this  is  called  Noir  cr.  on  most  of  the  maps  before  me,  but 
Hear  cr.  on  the  latest  G.  L.  O.  map  ;  which  name  the  natives  prefer  I  am  not 
informed.  3.  Louisiana  is  quite  a  town,  which  dates  back  to  Nicollet's  time, 
at  least,  as  he  marks  it  on  the  beautiful  map  he  made  before  1840.  The  Chic, 
and  Alton  R.  R.  bridges  the  river  at  the  mouth  of  Noir  or  Bear  cr.  This 
was  built  1872-73  (Act  of  Congr.,  Mar.  3d,  1871)  ;  the  town  or  station  Pike  is  on 
the  Illinois  side,  opp.  Louisiana.  The  C.  B.  and  Q.  R.  R.  sends  a  branch 
here;  the  St.  L.,  Keok.  andN.  W.  R.  R.  also  runs  through  Louisiana.  4. 
Next  is  Salt  r.,  which  Pike  elsewhere  calls  Oahahah,  and  others  Auhaha,  2  m. 
above  Louisiana.  This  seems  to  have  been  known  long  before  the  time  Pike's 
remark  would  suggest  ;  if  I  mistake  not,  it  is  laid  down  on  some  maps  before 
1700.  It  is  a  large  river  ;  the  French  were  along  here  in  1680-90,  and  I 
can  put  my  finger  on  an  old  F.  Riviere  au  Sel.  Salt  r.,  with  its  branches,  is 
big  enough  to  water  five  or  six  modern  counties,  before  it  falls  in  through  Pike 
Co.  Present  islands  in  Pike's  course  of  to-day,  from  Salt  r.  upward,  are 
Angle,  South,  and  North  Fritz  between  Hickory  chute  and  Scott's  Idg.,  Atlas, 
Blackbird,  and  Denmark,  between  a  couple  of  Snicarty  openings  and  Mundy's 
Wg.  or  Ashbum  sta. ;  then  the  very  large  Gilbert's  isl.,  2^  m.  long,  which  lies 
between  Gilbert's  and  TompWins'  Idg.  on  the  Missouri  side,  and  Cincinnati  Idg. 
on  the  other.  A  good  deal  of  engineering  work  wa«  done  at  this  bad  place  to 
close  Gilbert's  chute  and  throw  the  main  channel  over  agumst  the  Illinois  side 


'  ■ 


I   I 


! 


8 


CAMP  ABOVE   HANNIBAL. 


bad  state  of  cultivation.  About  one  mile  above  his  house, 
on  the  W.  shore,  is  a  very  handsome  hill,  which  he  informed 
me  was  level  on  the  top,  with  a  gradual  descent  on  either 
side,  and  a  fountain  of  fine  water.  This  man  likewise  told 
me  that  two  men  had  been  killed  on  the  Big  Bay,  or  Three 
Brothers ;  and  desired  to  be  informed  what  measures  had 
been  taken  in  consequence  thereof.  Caught  three  catfish 
and  one  perch.  Encamped  four  miles  above  the  house. 
Distance  1 8  miles." 

"  Cincinnati  Landing,  Pike  Co.,  111.,  to  Hannibal,  Marion  Co.,  Mo.,  12  m. 
direct,  and  not  much  more  by  river,  as  its  course  is  quite  straight.   The  French- 
man's house,  4  m.  beyond  which  Pike  went  to  camp,  was  a  germ  of  Hannibal, 
sown  under  the  handsome  liill,  just  above  a  little  run  which  Nicollet  and  Owen 
both  map  as  Bear  cr.,  opposite  Hurricane  isl.     This  place  is  mapped  by  Pike 
as  Hurricane  Settlement ;  he  speaks  of  it  again  under  date  of  Apr.  26th,  1806. 
It  is  now  a  notable  railroad  center ;  the  Wabash  R,  R.  built  the  bridge  in  1871 
(Act  of  Congr.,  July  25th,  1866).    On  the  Illinois  side  there  was  a  place  called 
Douglasville,  which  seems  to  have  been  a  forerunner  of  the  town  or  station 
Shepherd;   while  Hannibal  itself  has  also  the  St.  L.,  Keok.  and  N.  W.  R.  R. 
skirting   the  Miss,   r.,  the  Hann.  and   St.  Jo.,  the  St.  L.  and  Hann.,  and 
the    Mo.,    Kas.   and    Tex.       To    reach    this    then    French    embryo,   Pike 
proceeded  with  present  Pike  Co.,  111.,  on  his  right  the  whole  way,  but  with 
Ralls  Co.  on  his  left,  to  past  Saverton   in  the  latter  county,  and  so  on  to 
Marion  Co.,  Mo.     He  passed  the  positions  of  the  islands  now  called  Taylor's, 
Cottel's,  King's,  and  Glasscock's;  and  after  he  had  interviewed  the  Frenchman  he 
went  on  past  the  present  position  of  the  mouth  of  Bayou  St.  Charles,  off  which 
are  Turtle,  Glaucus,  and  other  islands,  to  camp  in   Marion  Co.,  Mo.,  about 
where  the  present  boundary  between  Pike  and  Adams  cos..  111.,  strikes  the 
river — that  is  to  say,  opposite  Armstrong  isl. ,  near  the  beginning  of  the  Snicarty, 
The  St.  Charles  or  Charles  is  old  in  history  ;  I  have  seen  the  name  ascribed  to 
Hennepin,  i68o,  but  have  not  myself  so  found  it.     Pike's  Hurricane  isl.  is 
probably  not  now  determinable,  if  existent,  unless  he  means  a  large  tract  of 
bottom-land  opposite  Hannibal,  isolated  by  the  Snicarty.    Glasscock's  isl.  is  now 
or  was  lately  the  only  well-founded  island  on  the  river  near  the  mouth  of  Bear 
cr.     It  is  said  in  Holcombe's  Hist.  Marion  Co.,  1884,  p.  902,  that  an  island 
opposite  the  mouth  of  Bear  cr.  disappeared  in  1849.     Judge  Thos.  W.  Bacon, 
who  came  to   Hannibal  in  1847,   informs  me  in  lit.  Mar.  21st,  1894,  that  he 
remembers  no  such  island;  "there  was  a  sand-bar  visible  at  low  water  just 
above    the  mouth  of  Bear    cr.,  and    it  disappeared  long  ago,  but  no  such 
fugitive  formation  could  properly  be  termed  an  island.     Along  the  N.  front  of 
the  site  of  Hannibal  was  once  an   incipient  island — a  sand-bar  with  growing 
willows  extending  from  the   N.  end  almost  to  the  mainland.     This  gradually 
disappeared  except  at  the  lower  end,  where  it  prolonged  and  merged  into  a 


H  I   ,.    ' 


■I 


PAST  QUINCY  TO  LA  GRANGE.  9 

Aug.  lyth.  Embarked  and  came  on  remarkably  well ;  at 
ten  o'clock  stopped  for  breakfast,  and  in  order  to  arrange 
our  sail ;  when  the  wind  served,  we  put  off  and  continued 
under  easy  sail  all  day.  Passed  three  batteaux.  Distance 
39  miles.'* 

granite  gravel  bed  or  bar  visible  at  low  water,  which  was  dredged  away  by  the 
government."  Pike  is  probably  mistaken  in  using  the  name  I^Iurricane  in 
the  present  connection.  There  were  a  Hurricane  Idg.,  isl.,  and  cr.  lower 
down,  in  Lincoln  Co.;  but  Judge  Bacon  informs  me  he  never  heard  the  name 
applied  to  Hannibal.  Nor  is  it  true  that  this  town  was  ever  called  Stavely's 
Idg.,  except  as  a  piece  of  fugitive  sarcasm  in  the  newspapers  of  a  rival  town, 
arising  in  the  habit  of  one  John  W,  Stavely,  a  saddler  of  Hannibal,  who  used  to 
haunt  the  landing  when  steamers  arrived.  It  could  not  well  have  been  first 
known  as  a  "  landing,"  because  the  first  steamer  to  arrive  there,  the  Gen. 
Putnam,  Moses  D,  Bates,  master,  came  in  1825,  while  Hannibal  was  platted  in 
1819  by  its  present  name,  shortly  after  Pike  Co,  was  organized  (Dec.  14th,  1818). 
The  classical  term  is  said  to  be  traceable  to  Antoine  Soulard,  surveyor-general, 
who  is  also  said  to  have  named  Fabius  r.  for  the  great  Roman  cunctator.  But 
this  is  dubious  ;  old  forms  Fabas  and  Fabbas  suggest  Sp.  falias  beans.  Bay  St. 
Charles  was  called  Scipio  r.,  as  attested  by  the  hamlet  of  Port  Scipio  at  its  mouth. 
'*  This  stretch  of  "  39"  m.  needs  to  be  warily  discussed.  The  whole  dis- 
tance  from  Hannibal  to  Keokuk  by  the  river  channel  is  only  61  m.  Pike 
makes  it  from  his  camp  of  the  i6th  to  that  of  the  19th  39-1-23+14=76  m.; 
he  also  started  from  a  little  above  Hannibal  on  the  17th,  and  did  not  quite 
make  Keokuk  on  the  19th  ;  for  he  only  got  to  the  foot  of  the  Des  Moines  rap- 
ids  after  breakfast  on  the  20th.  The  whole  way  would  have  been  about  80  of 
his  miles  against  say  60  of  actual  travel,  or  the  proportion  of  4:3,  as  already 
noted,  p.  2;  and  we  may  confidently  set  him  down  on  the  17th  halfway 
between  Hannibal  and  Keokuk.  Now  from  Hannibal  to  La  Grange  is  30 
m.  and  from  La  Grange  to  Keokuk  is  31  m.;  La  Grange,  Lewis  Co.,  Mo., 
at  the  mouth -of  Wyaconda  r.,  is  the  required  location  of  camp  of  the  17th. 
This  is  10  m.  above  Quincy,  the  seat  of  Adams  Co.,  111.,  one  of  the  best  known 
cities  on  the  river,  though  not  as  old  as  some  of  them.  The  C.  B.  and  Q. 
R.  R.  bridged  the  river  just  above  the  city  in  1867-68  ;  a  West  Quincy  grew  up 
on  the  Missouri  side,  and  the  present  importance  of  the  place  requires  no  com- 
ment. A  very  short  distance  above  Quincy  Pike  passes  from  Marion  into 
Lewis  Co. ,  Mo.  But  the  most  important  point  of  this  day's  voyage  is  one 
to  which  the  above  text  doas  not  even  allude.  Pike  elsewhere  speaks  of  a 
certain  Jaustioni  river,  as  the  then  boundary  between  the  U.  S.  and  the  Sac 
nation,  7  m.  above  the  Frenchman's  house  at  Hurricane  Settlement,  on  the 
W.  side  ;  and  he  traces  this  river  on  his  map  by  the  name  Jauflione.  Now 
there  are  five  large  streams  which  enter  the  Miss.  r.  on  the  W.  within  3  m.  of 
one  another,  by  four  separate  mouths,  in  Marion  Co.,  say  2  to  5  miles  below 
W.  Quincy,   and    the   proportionate  distance  above  Hannibal.       They  are 


ill 


;u! 


' 


10 


TWO   RIVERS — FABIUS  RIVERS. 


Sunday,  Aug.   i8th.       Embarked    early;    about   eleven 
o'clock  passed  an  Indian  camp,  on  the  E.  side.    They  fired 

now  known  as  (i)  South  Two  Rivers  ;  (a)  North  Two  Rivers ;  (3)  a  branch 
of  the  latter — these  three  emptying  practically  together,  just  below  Fabius 
isl. ;  (4)  South  Fabius ;  and  (5)  North  Fabius  rivers,  which  fall  into 
a  slough  whose  two  mouths  are  opposite  Orton's  isl.  Pike  has  left  us 
no  data  to  decide  which  of  these  he  means  by  Jaustioni  or  Jauflionc, 
especially  as  the  positions  of  the  several  outlets  have  no  doubt  changed 
since  1805.  They  are  all  at  present,  or  were  very  recently,  considerably 
more  than  the  "  seven"  miles  above  Hannibal,  being  entirely  beyond  the 
Bayou  St.  Charles,  itself  about  7  m.  long.  Pike's  queer  names,  Justioni 
or  Jaustioni,  and  Jauflione  (latter  in  early  text,  1807,  p.  4,  and  on  map),  are 
found  also  as  JefTreon,  and  usually  as  Jeflrion.  Some  form  of  the  name,  the 
meaning  of  which  I  have  never  learned,  endured  for  many  years  ;  thus  Jaufli- 
one r.  appears  in  Morse's  Univ.  Gaz.,  3d  ed.  1821,  p.  350,  though  it  had  mostly 
disappeared  from  ordinary  maps  of  about  that  date.  The  river  thus  desig- 
nated has  a  history  which  will  bear  looking  up.  Judge  Thos.  H.  Bacon  of  Han- 
nibal refers  me  to  certain  documents  bearing  on  French  Colonial  history  to 
be  found  in  Amer.  State  Papers,  VI.  i860,  pp.  713-14,  and  830-34,  also 
repub.  in  Holcombe's  Hist.  Marion  Co., 1884.  On  P-  834  is  :  "  July  loth,  1810. 
Board  met.  Present  John  B.  C.  Lucas,  Clement  B.  Penrose,  and  Frederick 
Bates,  Commissioners.  Charles  Gratiot,  assignee  of  Mathurin  Bouvet,  claim- 
ing 84  arpents  of  land  front  on  the  Mississippi  river  and  in  depth  from  the  river 
back  to  the  hills  in  the  district  of  St.  Charles.  .  .  The  Board  order  that  this 
claim  be  surveyed,  provided  that  it  be  not  situated  above  the  mouth  of  the 
River  Jeffrion  conformably  to  the  possession  of  Mathurin  Bouvet,"  etc.  As 
Bouvet's  claim  was  ultimately  confirmed  to  Gratiot,  Jeffrion  r.  must  have  been 
above  Salt  r.  The  next  considerable  river  above  Salt  r.  is  that  one  of  the 
"  Two  Rivers  "  called  South  r. ;  but  this  is  hardly  30  m.  long,  and  an  Act  of 
Dec.  31st,  1813,  describes  Jeffrion  r.  as  over  30  m.  long.  The  next  one  is  North 
Two  Rivers  ;  undoubtedly  it  is  this  one  which  was  known  as  the  Jeffrion  in 
Territorial  days.  When  the  region  was  first  settled  it  was  called  the  Two 
Rivers  country,  and  the  title  of  a  certain  Two  Rivers  Baptist  Association  pre- 
serves this  designation.  The  Governor  of  I^ouisiana  Territory  was  required 
to  divide  it  into  districts  (Act  of  Congr.,  Mar.  26th,  1804,  sec.  13) ;  Holcombe's 
Hist.  Marion  Co.,  p.  37,  says  that  Governor  Wm.  Clark  by  proclamation  reor- 
ganized the  districts  into  counties  Oct.  ist,  1812 ;  and  doubtless  the  JefTrion 
would  be  there  again  in  mention.  Bouvet's  settlement  on  Bay  Charles  is 
unquestionable  in  location  ;  it  was  described  as  about  34  leagues  above  St. 
Louis,  and  was  a  place  with  which  the  commissioners  must  have  been  officially 
acquainted.  In  history  B.  Charles  is  nearly  a  century  older  than  St.  Louis,  and 
it  was  for  many  years  a  better  known  locality.  Present  North  r.  is  the  only 
one  that  answers  the  historical  and  geographical  requirements  of  the  north  one 
of  Two  Rivers  of  early  Territorial  times  and  of  the  Jeffrion  r.  of  French 
Colonial  days.      Holcombe,  p.  148,  gives  an  account  of  Kentucky  prospectors 


IP 


IDENTIFICATION  OF  THE  JAUFLIONE. 


II 


several  guns  ;  but  we  passed  without  stopping.    Very  hard 

on  the  Jeffrion  in  1817.  The  name  of  the  Sac  chief  Black  Hawk  occurs  in  con- 
nection  with  an  incident  on  Two  Rivers  in  1812.  But  the  most  satisfactory 
ami  in  fact  a  conclusive  identification  of  North  Two  Rivers  with  the  Jauflione  is 
derivable  from  the  terms  of  our  treaty  with  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  of  1S04.  This 
will  be  found  in  Statutes  at  Large,  VII.  p.  84,  seq .  :  A  Treaty  between  the 
United  States  of  America  and  the  United  Tribes  of  Sac  and  Fox  Indians, 
made  Nov.  3d,  1804,  ratified  Jan.  25th,  1805,  and  proclaimed  Feb.  21st,  1805. 
Among  the  "articles  of  a  treaty  made  at  St.  Louis  in  the  district  of  Louisiana 
between  William  Henry  Harrison,  governor  of  the  Indiana  territory  and  of  the 
district  of  Louisiana  [etc.,  etc.]  of  the  one  part,  and  the  chiefs  and  head  men 
of  the  united  Sac  and  Fox  tribes  of  the  other  part,"  there  is  one  defining  the 
boundary  thus:  "Article  2.  The  general  boundary  or  line  between  the 
lands  of  the  United  States  and  of  the  said  Indian  tribes  shall  be  as  follows,  to 
wit :  Beginning  at  a  point  on  the  Missouri  river  opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Gasconade  river  ;  thence  in  a  direct  course  so  as  to  strike  the  river  JefTreon  at  the 
distance  of  thirty  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  down  the  said  Jeflfreon  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi," etc.,  etc.  In  company  with  Mr.  Robert  F.  Thompson  of  the  Bureau 
of  Indian  Affairs  at  Washington  I  made  a  special  examination  of  maps  in  his 
office  with  reference  to  this  point,  and  among  them  found  one,  prepared  for 
office  use  in  determining  boundaries  indicated  in  the  terms  of  Indian  treaties,  on 
which  the  boundary  in  mention  had  been  drawn  from  the  Missouri  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Gasconade  directly  to  a  point  supposed  to  be  30  m.  up  the 
North  Two  Rivers,  which  I  had  on  other  grounds  determined  the  Jauflione 
or  JefTreon  to  be.  This  river  empties  in  Fabius  township,  in  the  N.  W.  ^  of 
Sect.  3,  T.  58  N..  R.  5  W.,  Marion  Co.,  Mo. 

On  this  extraordinary  cession  see  a  note  by  L.  C.  D[raper]  in  Minn.  Hist. 
Coll.,  III.  Part  2,  p.  143,  1874. 

At  the  upper  end  of  St.  Charles  bayou,  called  Bayou  chute,  a  couple  of 
miles  below  Two  Rivers,  was  the  site  of  a  place  that  rejoiced  on  paper  in  the 
name  of  Marion  City.  They  started  a  railroad  there,  were  liable  to  wash-outs, 
and  inspired  Charles  Dickens'  idea  of  his  quizzical  "  Eden."  If  one  would  like 
to  see  how  uncounted  "cities  "  were  laid  out  in  gaudy  pxints — some  consisting  in 
a  hovel  or  two,  some  without  even  that — let  him  look  over  Featherstonhaugh's 
diverting  relations  of  the  '30's,  when  he  traveled  in  these  parts,  then  overrun 
with  a  set  of  the  neediest,  greediest,  and  most  unscrupulous  landsharks  that 
ever  lived  on  calomel,  whisky,  and  the  gullibility  of  their  fellows.  Marion  City 
is  located  on  one  of  the  maps  before  me,  but  not  on  any  of  the  others.  A 
little  above  it  are  Fabius  and  Orton  isls.,  already  mentioned,  and  opposite 
these  is  Ward's  isl. ,  larger  than  either  of  the  other  two.  A  couple  of  miles 
above  Quincy  begins  the  group  of  Cottonwood  isls.,  opposite  a  large  horse- 
shoe-shaped slough  which  seems  to  be  an  old  cut-off  of  the  river ;  it  is  con- 
nected with  the  Fabius  r.  outlets,  and  receives  Durgan's  (t.  e.,  Durkefe's)  cr.  At 
Quincy  is  the  lower  outlet  of  a  very  extensive  snicarty,  I2  or  15  m.  direct, 
and  much  more  by  its  sinuosities  ;  this  begins  at  Canton  (above  La  Grange)  and 


i!  : 


■t^ 


iiilj 


12 


WYACONDA— CANTON— FOX   RIVER. 


head  winds  part  of  the  day.  Caught  six  fish.  Distance 
23  miles." 

Aug:  igth.  Embarked  early  and  made  fine  way ;  but  at 
nine  o'clock,  in  turning  the  point  of  a  sand-bar,  our  boat 
struck  a  sawyer.  At  the  moment,  we  did  not  know  it  had 
injured  her  ;  but,  in  a  short  time  after,  discovered  her  to  be 
sinking  ;  however,  by  thrusting  oakum  into  the  leak  and 
bailing,  we  got  her  to  shore  on  a  bar,  where,  after  entirely 
unloading,  we  with  great  difficulty  keeled  her  sufficiently  to 
cut  out  the  plank  and  put  in  a  new  one.  This  at  the  time 
I  conceived  to  be  a  great  misfortune ;  but  upon  examina- 
tion we  discovered  that  the  injury  resulting  from  it  was 
greater  than  we  were  at  first  induced  to  believe ;  for  upon 
inspection  we  found  our  provisions  and  clothing  consid- 
erably  damaged.  The  day  was  usefully  and  necessarily 
employed  in  assorting,  sunning,  and  airing  those  articles. 
One  of  my  hunters.  Sparks,  having  gone  on  shore  to  hunt, 
swam  the  river  about  seven  miles  above  and  killed  a  deer; 
but  finding  we  did  not  come,  he  returned  down  the  river, 
and  joined  us  by  br,  imming.  Whilst  we  were  at  work  at 
our  boat   on   the  sand-beach,   three   canoes  with   Indians 

coiinects  at  various  points  with  Canton  chute,  itself  some  10  m.  long.  La 
Grnny;e,  where  Pike  camps,  was  so  called  from  the  hill  under  which  it  nestled, 
and  the  English  of  which  would  be  Barn  hill.  The  original  settlement  was 
named  Wyaconda  or  Waconda,  from  the  river  at  whose  mouth  it  was  made ; 
thus  Nicollet's  map  marks  Wiyakonda  instead  of  La  Grange,  preserving  the 
Indian  name  of  the  place.  This  river  is  a  large  one  which,  with  its  branches, 
traverses  Scotland  and  Clark  cos.  before  entering  Lewis  Co.  Before  settlement 
a  certain  tract  of  country  below  La  Grange  had  been  called  Waconda  prairie, 
or  in  some  similar  form  of  the  Indian  word,  as  Wacondaw  of  Maj.  Thos, 
Forsyth,  1819  ;  and  this  is  what  Pike's  map  presents  as  the  "  Small  Prairie." 

'•  About  two-thirds  of  the  way  from  La  Grange  to  Keokuk — say  to  Fox 
prairie,  at  the  mouth  of  Fox  r.,  site  of  Gregory's  Landing,  Clark  Co.,  Mo. 
The  principal  place  passed  is  Canton,  Lewis  Co.,  Mo.,  7  m.  above  La  Grange, 
opposite  the  head  of  Canton  chute.  Some  other  places  that  were  started,  such  as 
Satterfield,  would  be  hard  to  find  on  a  latter-day  map.  TuUy  is  now  practicr'lly 
a  part  of  Canton  ;  Tully  isl.  exists,  3  or  4  m.  above  Canton,  and  Satterfield's 
creek  is  a  branch  of  Fox  r.  Near  there,  one  Dodd  kept  for  some  years  a 
woodyard  on  the  Illinois  side,  and  the  steamboat  channel  among  the  sand-bars 
and  islands  in  his  vicinity  acquired  the  name  of  Dodd's  crossing. 


OES   MOINES   RIVER— KEOKUK. 


'3 


passed  on  the  opposite  shore.  They  cried,  "  How-do-you- 
do  ? '"  ■'''hing  us  to  give  them  an  invitation  to  come  over  ; 
but  zing  no  answer  they  passed  on.     We  then  put  our 

baggage  on  board  and  put  off,  designing  to  go  where  the 
young  man  had  killed  the  deer  ;  but  after  dark  we  became 
entangled  among  the  sand-bars,  and  were  obliged  to  stop 
and  encamp  on  the  point  of  a  beach.  Caught  two  fish. 
Distance  14  miles." 
Ati^.  20th,   Arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  De  Moyen  " 

"About  10  m.,  from  Gregory's  Idg.  to  "  the  point  of  a  beach"  within  the 
present  city  limits  of  Keokuk,  Lee  Co.,  la.,  immediately  above  the  mouth 
of  Des  Moines  r. ,  which  for  some  distance  separates  the  States  of  Missouri 
and  Iowa  ;  opposite  is  Hancock  Co.,  111.  The  place  where  Pike  got  sawyered 
was  very  likely  between  Hockley's  and  Fox  isls.  The  place  is  a  bad  one  ; 
there  has  been  a  good  deal  of  engineering  work  done  in  damming  Ilackley's 
chute,  anf"  iettying  the  channel  over  to  the  other  side.  Fox  r.  (once  called 
R.  Puar'  hence  also  Stinking  cr.)  is  not  mentioned  by  Pike  in  the  present 
connect  't  he  speaks  of  it  elsewhere,  and  lays  it  down  on  his  map  with- 

out naiu^,  .rking  an  Indian  village  on  the  Illinois  side  between  its  mouth  and 
that  of  Des  Moines  r.  The  present  or  a  very  recent  arrangement  of  its  dis- 
charge is  by  Fox  slough,  a  small  snicarty  that  begins  at  Alexandria  and  runs  5 
m.  down  to  Gregory's  Idg.  This  cuts  off  a  piece  of  bottom  which  the  railroad 
traverses  between  the  points  said,  besides  Fox  and  several  lesser  islands. 

"  For  the  origin  of  this  name,  involving  spurious  etymology  by  association 
with  Trappist  monks,  see  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  1893,  p.  20.  The  always  care- 
ful and  accurate  Nicollet  made  the  matter  quite  plain  ;  see  his  Rep,  1843, 
p.  22.  Some  form  of  the  old  Indian  name  is  used  by  the  earliest  French 
travelers  in  these  parts.  One  of  the  oldest  maps  I  have  seen,  dressee  par  J.  B. 
Fran(iuelin  dans  1688  pour  6tre  presentee  ^  Louis  XIV.,  letters  R.  des  Moin- 
gana,  and  marks  the  Indian  village  of  Moingoana.  One  of  j oliet's  maps  has 
MoeugSena.  Joliet  and  Marquette  passed  its  mouth  t;oing  dov.n  the  Miss.  r.  in 
1673,  on  or  about  June  25th  ;  Accault,  Auguelle,  and  Hennepin  passed  it  going 
up  the  Miss.  r.  early  in  1680.  Besides  the  many  early  variants  of  the  phrase 
which  settled  into  Des  Moines,  we  find  R.  of  the  Outontantas,  Stantas,  8t8ntes, 
Otentas,  etc.,  R.  of  the  Peouareas,  Paotes,  etc.,  R.  of  the  Maskoutens,  etc., 
Nadouessioux,  etc.  This  is  the  largest  river  Pike  has  come  to  since  he  left  the 
Illinois,  and  the  only  tributary  of  the  Missouri  which  he  charts  with  any  detail ; 
he  lays  it  down  with  20  of  its  branches,  and  marks  the  positions  on  it  of  old 
Forts  Crawford  and  St.  Louis.  We  observe  that  he  calls  it  De  Moyen  ;  and 
this  gives  occasion  for  a  blunder  not  less  amusing  than  to  call  it  Trappist  r. 
would  be.  For  our  hero  was  ambitious  of  French  scholarship,  and  on  consult- 
ing his  dictionary  to  find  out  about  moyen,  he  set  the  stream  down  as  Means 
r.  in  his  French-English  vocabulary  of  geographical  names.    Another  author, 


I' 

lie 

(i' 


I-    '■  ■' ' 
\  :  , 

.i   .1, 


,4-,.  1; 


ill 


I  i 


H 


DES   MOINES   RAPIDS — FORT  EDWARDS. 


at  seven  o'clock.  Although  no  soul  on  board  had  passed 
them,  wc  commenced  ascending  them  immediately.  Our 
boat  being  large  and  moderately  loaded,  we  found  great  dif- 
ficulty. The  river  all  the  way  through  is  from  three-quar- 
ters to  a  mile  wide.  The  rapids  are  1 1  miles  long,  with 
successive  ridges  and  shoals  extending  from  shore  to  shore. 
The  first  has  the  greatest  fall  and  is  the  most  difficult  to 
ascend.  The  channel,  a  bad  one,  is  on  the  east  side  in  pass- 
ing the  two  first  bars ;  then  passes  under  the  edge  of  the 
third  ;  crosses  to  the  west,  and  ascends  on  that  side,  all  the 

or  his  printer,  got  it  Demon  r,  Beltrami,  1828,  renders  Le  Moine  and 
Monk  r.  Pike's  editor  of  the  early  text,  1807,  has  des  Moines,  p.  4.  The 
stream  is  a  large  and  very  important  one,  too  much  so  to  be  entered  upon  in 
a  mere  note  like  this  ;  but  I  may  observe  that  it  is  historically  less  significant 
than  those  of  similar  extent  on  the  Illinois  and  Wisconsin  side  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, because  several  of  the  latter  were  highways  during  the  seventeenth 
and  eighteenth  centuries.  The  mouth  of  the  Des  Moin^^s  became  of  course 
the  scene  of  early  settlement,  but  not  all  the  places  started  there  survived. 
Nicollet's  map  shows  three — Keokuck,  Montebello,  Warsaw.  Owen's,  some- 
what later,  has  also  Nassau  and  Churchville,  immediately  at  the  debouchure, 
where  there  came  to  be  also  a  Buenavista.  Publishing  in  1847,  but  having 
written  of  1835,  the  always  entertaining  Fe&therstonhaugh  speaks  of  "a  sorry 
settlement  on  the  left  bank,  called  Keokuk,  after  a  celebrated  Sauk  chief, 
inhabited  altogether  by  a  set  of  desperados  " — a  diagnosis  wl-.ich  will  no  dr,.ibt 
be  better  relished  by  the  Hamiltonians,  Varsovians,  and  Alexandrians  than  by  the 
present  polished  Keokukites.  He  should  have  made  one  exception,  however, 
for  he  found  there  the  famous  George  Catlin,  Nov.  4th,  1835  :  see  his  book,  II. 
p.  49,.  Besides  Keokuk,  Lee  Co.,  la.,  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Des  Moines,  the  three  places  which  have  grown  into  urban  reality 
are :  Hamilton,  Hancock  Co.,  111.,  directly  opposite  Keokuk  ;  Warsaw,  Han- 
cock Co.,  111.,  2  m.  below  the  mouth,  and  directly  opposite  this,  Alexandria, 
Clark  Co.,  Mo.  Three  States  as  well  as  three  counties  thus  met  here.  Piiie 
contii'.jes  with  Illinois  on  his  right,  but  now  has  Iowa  instead  of  Missouri  on 
his  left. 

Fort  Edwards  was  a  position  of  importance  for  some  years.  This  military 
post  was  built  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  3  m.  below  the  foot  of  the 
rapids,  and  directly  opposite  the  two  islands  which  divided  the  outlet  of  the 
Des  Moines  into  three  channels.  Half  a  mile  S.  W.  from  the  fort  was  Canton- 
ment Davis,  its  precursor,  abandoned  when  the  works  were  completed.  The 
locality  is  practically  Warsaw.  A  full  description  of  this  establishment,  as  it 
was  at  the  time  of  Long's  visit  in  August,  181 7,  is  given  in  his  report,  as 
printed  in  Minn.  Hist.  Col.,  II.  Part  i,  i860;  2d  ed.  1890,  pp.  77-80.  It 
had  been  building  since  June,  1816,  and  was  not  quite  finished  in  1817. 


WILLIAM  EWING'S  ESTABLISHMENT. 


15 


way  to  the  Sac  village.  The  shoals  continue  the  whole  dis- 
tance. We  had  passed  the  first  and  most  difficult  shoal, 
when  we  were  met  by  Mr.  Wm.  Ewing,"  who  I  understand 
is  an  agent  appointed  to  reside  with  the  Sacs  to  teach  them 
the  science  of  agriculture,  with  a  French  interpreter,  four 
chiefs  and  15  men  of  the  Sac  nation,  in  their  canoes,  bear- 
ing a  flag  of  the  United  States.  They  came  down  to  assist 
me  up  the  rapids  ;  took  out  14  of  my  heaviest  barrels,  and 
put  two  of  their  men  in  the  barge  to  pilot  us  up.  Arrived 
at  the  house  of  Mr.  Ewing,  opposite  the  village,  at  dusk. 
The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  rapids  is  hilly,  but  a  rich  soil. 
Distance  16  miles." 

"  Some  light — at  least  that  light  in  which  he  was  regarded — is  thrown  on 
Mr.  Ewing  by  a  letter  before  nie  from  General  James  Wilkinson  to  General 
Henry  Dearborn,  Secretary  at  War,  dated  St.  Louis,  Dec.  3d,  1805 :  "  In  a 
former  letter  you  have  asked  me  who  this  Ewing  was  ?  I  can  give  you  no 
further  Information  than  that  I  found  Him  in  a  place,  which  He  is  utterly 
unqualified  to  fill — He  is  I  understand  placed  at  the  River  Desmoin,  to  teach 
the  Indians  the  Arts  of  Agriculture,  but  has  I  believe  given  but  a  wretched 
example — This  is  I  think  the  Third  visit  he  has  made  since  my  arrival  to  this 
place,  and  I  expect  his  disbursements  which  are  supplied  by  Mr.  Chouteau  may 
exceed  expectation — He  appears  to  be  a  young  man  of  innocence,  levity  & 
simplicity — without  experience  or  observation." 

"  The  rapids  named  from  their  situation  above  the  mouth  of  Des  Moines  r. 
have  also  been  known  as  the  T^ower  rapids,  in  distinction  from  those  higher 
up  about  the  mouth  of  Pock  1.  These  formidable  obstacles  to  navigation 
have  been  overcome  by  modcin  engineering  skill,  but  Pike's  curt  notice  of  the 
channel  is  clearly  recognizable.  The  river  was  bridged  by  the  Wabash  road 
between  Hamilton  and  Keokuk,  in  1869-70  (Act  of  Congr.,  July  25th,  1866) ;  the 
town  lock  and  chain  are  within  a  mile  or  so  of  the  bridge.  Then  succeed  the 
English,  Lamalee,  and  Spanish  chains,  and  the  Upper  chain  at  the  head  of  the 
rapids.  The  distance  is  about  II  m.  Sandusky,  la.,  was  located  between 
the  English  and  Lamalee  chainr  :  Nashville,  la.,  at  the  Spanish  chain  ;  Solfe- 
rino,  la.,  above  the  last ;  at  or  near  one  of  these  last  two  is  Galland,  la.;  and 
on  the  Illinois  side  is  a  place  called  Sonora.  On  that  side  Cheney  cr.  falls  in  at 
Hamilton,  and  higher  up  are  two  othert,  known  as  Golden's  and  Quarry  Sugar, 
but  which  used  to  be  called  Wagoi  er's  and  Larry's  ;  while  on  the  lowan  side 
Price's  cr.  falls  in  at  the  middle  lock,  Lamalee's  at  Sandusky,  and  several 
smaller  ones  at  various  points.  The  railroad  and  canal  hug  the  lowan  side.  At 
the  head  of  the  rapids  the  river  makes  a  sharp  bend  ;  in  the  concavity  of  this 
bend  stands  Nauvoo,  111.,  originally  a  Mormon  settlement ;  it  used  to  be  called 
also  Commerce.     This  is  the  place  where  Mr.  Ewing  had  his  establishment 


■  iif^i 


ii:; 


!l;' 


i     i 


i6 


pike's  speech  to  the  sacs. 


Aug.  2ist.  All  the  chief  men  of  the  village  came  over 
to  my  encampment,  where  I  spoke  to  them  to  the  following 
purport : 

"  That  their  great  father,  the  president  of  the  United 
States,  wishing  to  be  more  intimately  acquainted  with  the 
situation,  wants,  &c.,  of  the  different  nations  of  the  red 
people,  in  our  newly  acquired  territory  of  Louisiana,  had 
ordered  the  general  to  send  a  number  of  his  young  warriors 
in  different  directions,  to  take  them  by  the  hand,  and  make 
such  inquiries  as  might  afford  the  satisfaction  required. 

"That  I  was  authorized  to  choose  situations  for  their 
trading  establishments ;  and  wished  them  to  inform  me  if 
that  place  would  be  considered  by  them  as  central. 

"  Tiiat  I  was  sorry  to  hear  of  the  murder  which  had  been 
committed  on  the  river  below ;  but,  in  consideration  of 
their  assurances  that  it  was  none  of  their  nation,  and  the 
anxiety  exhibited  by  them  on  the  occasion,  I  had  written 
to  the  general  and  informed  him  of  what  they  had  said  on 
the  subject. 

"  That  in  their  treaty  they  engaged  to  apprehend  all 
traders  who  came  among  them  without  license ;  for  that 
time,  I  could  not  examine  their  traders  on  this  subject ;  but 
that,  on  my  return,  I  would  make  a  particular  examination. 

"  That  if  they  thought  proper  they  might  send  a  young 
man  in  my  boat,  to  inform  the  other  villages  of  my 
mission,"  etc. 

I  then  presented  them  with  some  tobacco,  knives,  and 
whisl'y.    They  replied  to  the  following  purport : 

when  he  entertained  Pike  ;  the  latter  charts  it  as  '  U.  S.  Agricultural  Estab'." 
The  Sac  village  opposite  was  on  the  site  of  the  present  town  of  Montrose,  la. 
A  large  creek  runs  through  this  town.  There  are  some  islands  at  the  head 
of  the  rapids,  between  Nauvoo  and  Montrose,  one  of  which,  No.  401  of  the 
Miss.  Surv.  chart,  is  called  Montrose.  At  the  head  of  the  bend,  still  opp.  Nau- 
voo, is  the  lov  er  end  of  Dobson's  slough,  which  receives  a  stream  charteil  l)y 
Nicollet  and  Owen  as  Sugar  cr.,  but  later  dedicated  to  his  Satanic  majesty 
by  the  name  of  Devil's  or  Big  Devil  cr.,  called  by  Beltrami  Manitou  ci.  Devil's 
isl.  is  the  name  of  the  large  tract,  nearly  4  m.  long,  which  is  isolated  by  Dobson's 
slough,  certain  sections  of  which  latter  are  known  as  Big  River  and  Potter's. 


p 


FORT  MADISON. 


17 


"  That  they  thanked  me  for  the  good  opinion  I  had  of 
their  nation,  and  for  what  I  had  written  the  general.  That 
themselves,  their  young  warriors,  and  the  whole  nation, 
were  glad  to  sec  me  among  them. 

"That  as  for  the  situation  of  the  trading-houses,  they 
could  not  determine,  being  but  a  part  of  the  nation.  With 
respect  to  sending  a  young  man  along,  that  if  I  would  wait 
until  to-morrow,  they  would  choose  one  out.  And  finally, 
that  they  thanked  me  for  my  tobacco,  knives,  and  whisky." 

Not  wishing  to  lose  any  time,  after  writing  to  the 
generar"  and  my  friends,  I  embarked  and  made  six  miles 

'"  James  Wilkinson  :  see  elsewhere  for  this  letter,  which  formed  Doc.  No.  i, 
App.  to  Pt.  I.  of  the  orig.  ed.  of  this  work.  Pike's  5  or  6  m.  takes  him 
past  Dobson's  slough  and  Devil's  or  Sugar  cr.  and  isl. ,  and  the  sand-bar  on 
which  he  camped  is  now  represented  by  Niota  isl.,  2^  m.  long,  or  one  of 
the  small  ones  close  by.  The  locality  is  the  well-known  one  of  the  city  of 
Madison,  or  Fort  Madison,  seat  of  Lee  Co.,  la.  Opposite  this  city,  in  Hancock 
Co.,  111.,  are  two  little  places,  one  called  Niota,  and  the  other  Appannose  (Nic- 
ollst),  Appanoose  (G.  L.  O.  map),  Appanooce  (Miss.  Surv.  chart),  etc.  A  cer- 
tain creek  which  falls  in  by  Niota  and  is  known  as  Tyson's  cr.  seems  to  be  the 
never-identified  one  which  Lewis  and  Clark  mapped  in  1 8 14  as  Sand  Bank  cr. 

A  history  of  Lee  Co.,  pub.  Chicago,  1879,  says  that  the  city  of  Fort  Madi- 
son was  so  called  from  the  old  fort  and  trading-post  of  that  name.  The  author 
speaks  of  the  tradition  that  this  establishment  was  built  by  Zachary  Taylor, 
when  this  distinguished  general,  afterward  president  of  the  United  States,  was 
a  lieutenant  in  the  army  ;  and  attempts  to  refute  this  tradition  by  an  appeal  to 
the  War  Department  for  the  facts  in  the  case.  But  unluckily,  the  information 
he  derived  from  this  source  was  erroneous  ;  for  the  Hon.  Geo.  W.  McCrary,  then 
secretary  of  war,  told  him  that  the  adjutant-general  of  the  army  reported  to 
him  (McCrary)  that  Fort  Madison  was  erected  by  Pike  in  1805.  Whereas, 
besides  imperishable  renown,  Pike  erected  nothing  in  1805  but  his  stockade  on 
Swan  r.,  and  various  patriotic  flag-poles.  The  difference  between  selecting  or 
recommending  a  site  for  a  fort,  and  building  one  on  that  site,  is  obvious  at  sight. 
But  Pike  did  not  even  select  or  recommend  this  spot  for  a  fort,  the  lowest  one 
of  several  which  he  did  pick  out  being  at  Burlington  :  see  next  note.  Z.  Taylor 
was  a  1st  lieut.  of  the  7th  Infantry  in  1808,  appointed  from  Ky. ;  which 
fact,  as  far  as  it  goes,  supports  the  tradition.  The  Andreas  Hist.  Atl.  of  la.  has 
it  that  the  fort  for  which  the  town  was  named  was  built  in  1808  ;  evacuated  and 
Ininied  by  hostile  Indians,  1813  (qu.  1812?).  On  Monday,  Aug.  4th,  1817,  when 
Long  visited  the  ruins  of  Fort  Madison,  there  was  nothing  left  but  som^  old 
chimneys,  a  covert  way  leading  from  the  main  garrison  to  some  sort  of  an 
elevated  outwork  in  the  rear,  and  a  number  of  fruit-trees  on  the  ground  which 
had  been  a  garden  :  see  Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  II.,  Part  I,  i860,  2d  ed.  1890,  p.  75. 


■:"    •■  t. 


m 


Ml: 


!    ; 


i8 


BURLINGTON. 


above  the  village.  Encamped  on  a  sand-bar.  One  canoe 
of  savages  passed. 

Au^.  22d.  Embarked  at  5  o'clock  a.  m.  Hard  head 
winds.  Passed  a  great  number  of  islands.  The  river  very 
wide  and  full  of  sand-bars.     Distance  23  miles." 

Aug.  2jd.  Cool  morning.  Came  on  5^  miles,  where, 
on  the  west  shore,  there  is  a  very  handsome  situation  for 
a  garrison.     The  channel  of  the  river  passes  under  the  hill, 


In  the  fall  of  1832  one  Peter  Williams  settled  on  the  present  site  of  the  town. 
The  old  trading-house  there  was  called  Le  Moine  factory.  The  old  fort  stood 
close  to  the  river,  and  as  I  judge  within  a  third  of  a  mile  of  the  present  State 
penitentiary. 

"  About  18  m.,  to  a  position  above  the  mouth  of  Skunk  r.,  a  little 
below  the  Burlington  bluffs  ;  he  calls  it  5^  m.  to  the  locality  he  presently 
describes  with  particularity,  and  which  will  be  recognized  as  the  site  of  Bur- 
lington, seat  of  Des  Moines  Co. ,  la.  After  passing  Madison  on  his  left,  with 
Niota  and  Appanoose  on  his  right,  he  goes  up  by  Pontoosuc  and  Dallas,  both 
in  Hancock  Co.,  111.,  and  then  has  Henderson  Co.,  111.,  on  his  right.  Further 
up,  on  the  left,  Lee  Co.  is  separated  from  Des  Moines  Co. ,  la. ,  by  Skunk  r. 
This  is  a  large  stream,  whose  present  pleasant  name  translates  the  Indian 
word  rendered  Shikagua  by  Nicollet,  and  Shokauk  by  Featherstonhaugh  ; 
Lewis  and  Clark  map  it  as  Polecat  r.  Beltrami,  1828,  calls  it  Polecat  r. 
and  River  of  the  Bete  Puante.  Green  Bay  is  a  small  place  in  I.ee  Co.,  on 
a  sort  of  slough  which  discharges  into  the  river  behind  Lead  isl. ,  and  which 
is  called  Green  bay.  This  is  connected  in  some  way,  which  for  me  remains 
occult, with  a  creek  called  by  Nicollet  I^ost  cr. ;  it  is  a  part  of  the  intricate  waters 
between  Skunk  r.  and  that  stream  which  runs  through  Madison  past  tlie 
State  penitentiary,  where  the  bridge  that  was  built  in  1887-88  strikes  the  Iowa 
side.  Jollyville  was  a  place  on  the  same  waters,  but  seems  to  have  been  list 
like  the  creek.  Some  of  the  islands  besides  Lead,  the  present  positions  of 
which  Pike  passed,  if  not  these  islands  themselves,  are  now  known  as  Dutcli- 
man.  Hog,  Polk,  Thompson,  Peel,  and  Twin,  the  latter  at  the  mouth  of  Skunk  r. 
His  camp  I  suppose  to  have  been  about  on  the  spot  where  one  Sauer- 
wein  used  to  keep  his  woodyard,  about  halfway  between  Twin  isls.  and  tlie 
mouth  of  Spruce  (or  Spring)  cr.  This  is  nearly  opp.  the  middle  of  the  great 
island  now  called  Burlington,  formerly  Big,  being  7  m.  long,  separated  ucm 
the  Illinois  mainland  by  Shokokon  slough,  on  which  there  is  or  was  a  place 
called  by  this  latter  name.  A  number  of  creeks  make  into  this  slough,  among 
them  those  called  Dug  Out,  Honey  (Camp  cr.  of  Nicollet  and  Owen),  and 
Ellison's.  A  place  called  Montreal  started  near  Ellison's  cr.,  but  does  not  seem 
to  have  survived.  What  Pike  maps  as  "  Sand  bank  Creek,"  at  a  place  lie 
calls  "  Sand  Bay,"  sepui'^  to  be  Dug  Out  cr.,  or  the  next  one  below,  which  falls 
into  the  slough  behin.;  Thompson's  isl.,  near  Dallas  City. 


HENDERSON   RIVER— OQUAWKA. 


19 


Iowa 
lost 
ons  of 
Dutch- 
link  r. 
Sauer- 
ul  the 
great 
ucm 
place 
imong 
),  and 
t  seem 
ice  he 
|h  falls 


which  is  about  60  feet  perpendicular,  and  level  on  the  top ; 
400  yards  in  the  rear  there  is  a  small  prairie  of  8  or  10  acres, 
which  would  be  a  convenient  spot  for  gardens ;  and  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river  there  is  a  beautiful  prospect  over 
a  large  prairie,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  extend,  now  and  then 
interrupted  by  groves  of  trees.  Directly  under  the  rock  is 
a  limestone  spring,  which,  after  an  hour's  work,  would  afford 
water  amply  sufficient  for  the  consumption  of  a  regiment. 
The  landing  is  bold  and  safe,  and  at  the  lower  part  of  the 
hill  a  road  may  be  made  for  a  team  in  half  an  hour.  Black 
and  white  oak  timber  in  abundance.  The  mountain  con- 
tinues about  two  miles,  and  has  five  springs  bursting  from 
it  in  that  distance. 

Met  four  Indians  and  two  squaws;  landed  with  them; 
gave  them  one  quart  of  made  whisky  [t.  e.,  about  three- 
fourths  water],  a  few  biscuit,  and  some  salt.  I  requested 
some  venison  of  them ;  they  pretended  they  could  not 
understand  me ;  but  after  we  had  left  them  they  held  up 
two  hams,  and  hallooed  and  laughed  at  us  in  derision. 
Passed  nine  horses  on  shore,  and  saw  many  signs  of  Indians. 
Passed  a  handsome  prairie  on  the  east  side,  and  encamped 
at  its  head." 

"  This  is  the  prairie  through  which  meanders  Henderson  r.,  6  m.  above  Bur- 
lington. The  Sac  village  was  on  its  no  .h  bank.  The  prairie  and  the  village 
are  lettered  on  the  map  as  per  text ;  the  river  is  shown  there,  without  name  ; 
the  Burlington  bluffs  are  delineated,  marked  "Positions  for  a  Fort."  The 
present  city  was  built  across  the  mouth  of  Hawkeye  cr. ,  a  rivulet  which  makes 
in  above  the  steepest  part  of  the  bluff,  where  the  Flint  hills  recede  a  little 
from  the  river;  it  extends  to  the  larger  Flint  cr.  or  r.,  at  whose  mouth  it 
may  be  said  to  be  situated.  Across  the  Mississippi  is  East  Burlington,  111.,  at 
the  head  of  Shokokon  slough  ;  the  bridge  which  theC,  B.  and  Q.  R.  R.  built  in 
1867-63  spans  the  river  and  connects  the  two  places.  There  are  numerous 
islands  above  Burlington,  the  principal  of  which  are  O'Connell's,  Rush,  and 
Otter.  Above  Henderson  r.  there  is  nothing  of  special  note  till  we  reach 
()<iua\vka,  seat  of  Henderson  Co.,  111.,  reckoned  13  m.  by  the  channel  above 
liurlington.  Pike  omits  his  customary  mileages  today,  but  did  not  get  beyond 
Oquawka,  which  is  at  the  head  of  the  prairie  on  which  he  camped  ;  for  here 
begin  some  steep  banks,  known  before  and  since  Pike's  day  as  the  Yellow  banks. 
He  marks  them  on  his  map,  and  they  are  mentioned  by  the  same  name  in  For- 
syth's narrative  of  1819. 


I 


i^'i 


i     r 


20 


HURON  AND  IOWA  SLOUGHS. 


Three  batteaux  from  Michilimackinac  stopped  at  our 
camp.  We  were  told  they  were  the  property  of  Mr.  Myers 
Michals.  We  were  also  informed  that  the  largest  Sac  village 
was  about  2^  miles  out  on  the  prairie ;  and  that  this 
prairie  was  called  halfway  from  St.  Louis  to  the  prairie  Des 
Cheins. 

Aug.  z^ih.  In  the  morning  passed  a  number  of  islands. 
Before  dinner,  Corporal  Bradley  and  myself  took  our  guns 
T'A  went  on  shore ;  we  got  behind  a  savannah,  by  following 
a  stream  we  conceived  to  have  been  a  branch  of  the  river, 
but  which  led  us  at  least  two  leagues  from  it."  My  two 
favorite  dogs,  having  gone  out  with  us,  gave  out  in  the 
prairie,  owing  to  the  heat,  high  grass,  and  want  of  water ; 
but,  thinking  they  would  come  on,  we  continued  our  march. 
We  heard  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  supposing  it  to  be  from 
our  boat,  answered  it ;  shortly  after,  however,  we  passed  an 
Indian  trail,  which  appeared  as  if  the  persons  had  been 
hurried,  I  presume  at  the  report  of  our  guns ;  tor  with  this 
people  all  strangers  are  enemies.  Shortly  after  we  struck 
the  river,  and  the  boat  appeared  in  view ;  stayed  some  time 
for  my  dogs ;  two  of  my  men  volunteered  to  go  in  search  of 
them.  Encamped  on  the  west  shore,  nearly  opposite  a 
chalk  bank.     My  two  men  had  not  yet  returned,  and  it  was 


'*  We  are  not  told  which  side  of  the  river  this  was,  and  the  sentence  is  other- 
wise ambiguous,  as  all  streams  hereabouts  are  branches  of  the  river.  We  know 
he  means  a  bayou  or  slough,  by  following  which  he  expected  soon  to  regain  the 
Mississippi  ahead  of  his  boats,  and  I  suppose  that  Huron  slough,  on  the  Iowa 
side,  led  him  astray.  The  slough  itself  is  not  long,  merely  cutting  off  Huron 
and  some  smaller  islands  for  four  miles  ;  but  this  receives  Iowa  slough,  which 
meanders  toward  the  river,  and  so  would  take  Pike  and  Bradley  away  from  the 
river  if  they  followed  it  up.  This  supposition  is  strengthened  by  Pike's  using 
the  word  "savannah,"  whici  with  him  means  rather  marsh  or  bog  than  prairie, 
and  he  would  hardly  have  api>1'ed  it  to  the  better  ground  on  the  Illinois  side 
if  he  had  gone  there  and  been  misled  by  Henderson  r.  Moreover,  he  con- 
tinues to  camp  on  the  west  side,  !>s  he  would  naturally  do  after  loss  of  the  two 
men  who  went  to  find  hi;  ..logs  ;  and  also  he  expected  to  recover  the  men  at  the 
place  above  where  the  hills  first  come  down  to  the  river,  which  is  at  Muscatine, 
la.  He  does  not  say  who  these  men  were ;  they  were  not  recovered  till 
Sept.  1st,  at  Dubuque. 


KEITHSBURG— NEW   BOSTON— IOWA   RIVER. 


21 


extraordinary,  as  they  knew  my  boat  never  waited  for  any 
person  on  shore.  They  endeavored  to  strike  the  Mississippi 
ahead  of  us.  We  fired  a  blunderbuss  at  three  different 
times,  to  let  them  know  where  we  lay.  Distance  23^ 
miles." 

Sunday,  Aug.  25th.  Stopped  on  the  Sand-bank  prairie 
on  the  E.  side  [about  New  Boston,  111.],  from  which  you 
have  a  beautiful  prospect  of  at  least  40  miles  down  the  river, 
bearing  S.  38°  E.  Discovered  that  our  boat  leaked  very 
fast ;  but  we  secured  her  inside  so  completely  with  oakum 
and  tallow  as  nearly  to  prevent  the  leak.  Fired  a  blunder- 
buss every  hour,  all  day,  as  signals  for  our  men.  Passed  the 
river  Iowa.  Encamped  at  night  on  the  prairie  marked 
Grant's  prairie  [below  Muscatine,  la.].  The  men  had  not 
yet  arrived.     Distance  28  miles." 

'^  This  mileage  is  excessive,  as  are  all  those  hence  to  Rock  Island  or  Daven- 
port, the  distance  of  which  by  the  channel  is  70  m.  from  Oquawka,  though 
Pike  makes  it  92.  Moreover,  the  distance  from  Oquawka  to  New  Boston, 
directly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Iowa  r.,  is  only  18  m.,  and  Pike 
remains  below  the  Iowa  r.  to-day.  What  with  sloughing  it,  losing  his  dogs, 
and  waiting  for  his  men,  he  did  not  get  much  beyond  Keithsburg,  Mercer  Co., 
111.,  which  we  may  safely  take  as  to-day's  datum-point.  This  is  built  under  a 
bank  at  the  mouth  of  Pope's  cr.,  and  so  far  answers  the  requirements  of 
Pike's  camp  opposite  it.  The  situation  is  in  Louisa  Co.,  la.,  but  a  little  dis- 
tance over  the  boundary  of  Des  Moines  Co.  Excepting  Keithsburg,  no  notable 
point  is  passed  to-day.  A  place  called  Huron  was  started  on  the  slough  of  that 
name,  but  it  never  came  to  anything.  Huron  isl.  is  called  Thieves'  isl.  on  some 
maps.  The  large  one  (No.  355)  opp.  Keithsburg,  and  crossed  by  the  railroad, 
is  separated  from  the  lowan  side  by  Black  Hawk  slough. 

"Pike  delineates  "Sand  Bank"  on  his  map  directly  opposite  the  mouth 
of  Iowa  r.  This  is  the  site  of  New  Boston,  Mercer  Co.,  111.  The  bank 
comes  '.mmediately  upon  the  river  with  a  frontage  of  2  m.,  and  Edwards  r. 
falls  in  at  the  foot  of  the  bank,  3ji  m.  above  Pope's  r.  At  New  Boston 
the  Mississippi  turns  sharply,  so  that  the  mouth  of  Iowa  r.  is  rather  on  the 
S.  than  W. ;  and  the  bank  on  which  is  the  town  recedes  northwird,  leaving  low 
ground  between  itself  and  the  Mississippi,  watered  by  the  ramifications  of  Stur- 
geon bay,  Illinois  slough,  Swan  lake,  etc.  This  is  what  Pike  means  by  his 
"Sand-bank  prairie  on  the  E.  side."  As  to  that  "  marked  Grant's  prairie,"  I 
should  observe  that  no  such  name  appears  on  the  map  as  published  ;  Pike  re- 
ferred to  his  immense  original  draft  in  water-colors,  now  preserved  in  the  War 
Department,  and  from  which  the  small  printed  map  was  reduced  with  the  omis- 
sion of  too  many  details.     What  he  means  by  Grant's  prairie  is  the  lowlands  on 


%  '--k 


i^ 


1 1  k 


22 


MUSCATINE. 


Aug.  26th.  Rain,  with  a  very  hard  head  wind.  Towed 
our  boat  about  nine  miles,  to  where  the  river  Hills  join 
the  Mississippi.  Here  I  expected  to  find  the  two  men  I 
had  lost,  but  was  disappointed.  The  mercury  in  Reamur 
[Reaumur]  at  13°;  whereas  yesterday  it  was  26°  [=61 J^  and 

the  Iowa  side  before  you  come  to  Muscatine,  which  is  the  point  where  the  hills 
first  reach  the  nver-side.  Compare  Apr.  26th,  1806.  Grant's  prairie  is  now 
known  as  Muscatine  isl.,  being  virtually  cut  off  by  Muscatine  slough,  whose 
lower  mouth  is  hardly  2  m.  above  the  Iowa  r. ,  though  the  upper  entrance  is  at 
Muscatine — a  distance  of  some  18-20  m.  At  one  point  this  slough  dilates  into 
a  body  of  water  which  is  now  called  Keokuk  lake,  but  which  was  charted  by 
Nicollet  as  "  L.  Maskuding  or  in  the  Prairie."  Here  are  obviously  the  origin  and 
meaning  of  the  name  "  Muscatine."  The  town  now  so  called  was  once  known 
OS  Bloomington.  I  suspect  that  "  Grant's"  prairie  in  Pike  may  be  intended  for 
Grande  prairie ;  thus  Beltrami  calls  it  Grande  Prairie  Mascotin,  II.  p.  196, 
and  Forsyth  has  Grand  Mascoutin.  There  was  a  place  started  by  the  name  of 
Port  Louisa  on  the  lowan  side  of  the  river,  near  one  of  the  openings  of  Musca- 
tine slough ;  but  it  seems  to  have  disappeared  after  bequeathing  the  name  to 
the  county,  whose  seat  is  now  Wapello.  As  to  Pike's  "  28  "  miles  to-day,  that 
is  best  disposed  of  by  observing  that  to-morrow  he  drags  his  boat  "  nine  miles, 
to  where  the  river  Hills  join  the  Mississippi,"  ».  #.,  to  Muscatine.  So  he 
camps  on  the  lowan  side,  a  certain  distance  below  Muscatine.  We  shall  not 
be  far  out  if  we  set  him  exactly  on  the  boundary  between  Louisa  and 
Muscatine  cos.,  opp.  the  lower  end  of  Blanchard's  isl.,  behind  the  middle  of 
which  Copperas  or  Copper  cr.  falls  in  on  the  Illinois  side. 

The  great  Iowa  r.  should  not  be  passed  without  remark.  For  the  name  in 
its  extreme  fluidity,  see  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  1893,  p.  20.  Some  still  more 
singular  forms  of  the  word  than  those  there  noted  reach  us  from  the  time  when 
the  French  writers  and  cartographers  used  the  figure  8  for  the  letters  ou;  so  that 
"  Iowa"  was  liable  to  appear  as  AySay  (Ayouay),  or  in  some  such  form  :  Neill 
cites  forms  sing,  and  pi.  as  AyeSias,  AyoSois,  Ayooues,  Ayavois,  Ayoois, 
Ayouez,  Ayoes,  Aaiaoua,  to  which  I  can  add  Aiavvi ;  another  series  of  words 
flows  from  the  introduction  of  J  or  j :  thus  Pike,  early  text,  1807,  p.  5,  has  Jowa, 
and  I  have  noticed  also  Ajoe,  Jaway,  Joway,  Jowah,  etc.  Beltrami,  1828,  has 
Yawoha,  Yahowa,  and  Yawowa.  This  river-system  waters  a  great  portion  of 
the  State,  on  courses  S.,  S.  E.,  and  E.  Pike  says  elsewhere  that  in  ascending 
it  36  m.  you  come  to  a  fork,  the  right-hand  branch  of  which  is  called  Red 
Cedar  r.  «Vaiving  any  question  of  distance,  this  is  correct ;  and  moreover, 
Red  Cedar  is  the  larger  of  the  two  forks,  though  by  a  very  unusual  freak  of 
nomenclature  the  united  stream  Iowa  takes  the  name  of  the  lesser  fork.  He 
further  says  that  Red  Cedar  r.  branches  out  300  m.  from  its  mouth ;  which 
triple  forking  is  "  called  the  Turkey's  foot."  This  term  seems  to  have  lapsed ; 
the  situation  is  in  Black  Hawk  Co.,  above  Cedar  Falls,  and  one  of  the  turkey's 
toes  is  called  Shell  Rock  r.     The  notable  town  of  Cedar  Rapids  is  lower 


ROCK  RIVER. 


23 


go}4  Fahr.]  Met  two  peroques  [sic^']  full  of  Indians,  who 
commenced  hollowing  [hallooing]  **  How  do  you  do?"  etc. 
They  then  put  to  shore  and  beckoned  us  to  do  likewise, 
but  we  continued  our  course.  This  day  very  severe  on  the 
men.     Distance  281^  miles." 

Aug-,  zyth.  Embarked  early  ;  cold  north  wind  ;  mercury 
10° ;  the  wind  so  hard  ahead  that  we  were  obliged  to  tow 
the  boat  all  day.  Passed  one  peroque  of  Indians ;  also,  the 
Riviere  De  Roche  [Rock  river],  late  in  the  day.  Some 
Indians,  who  were  encamped  there,  embarked  in  their 
canoes  and  ascended  the  river  before  us.    The  wind  was  so 

down,  in  Linn  Co.  The  confluence  of  Iowa  r.  proper  with  Red  Cedar  is  at 
Fredonia,  Louisa  Co. ;  Pike's  map  represents  this  by  the  pitchfork-shaped  object, 
though  it  is  not  lettered  with  any  name.  He  marks  a  village  of  lowas  "about 
10  miles  up,"  on  the  "right"  '  ank,  «.  e.,  on  the  right-hand  side  going  up,  left 
bank.  Iowa  r.  presents  the  anomaly  of  a  great  river  with  nothing  to  speak 
of  at  its  mouth  (New  Boston  is  across  the  Mississippi).  "Iowa  City"  seems 
never  to  have  got  much  beyond  its  original  wood-pile,  and  a  similar  "city" 
which  Nicollet  charts  by  the  name  of  Black  Hawk  would  be  hard  to  find  now. 
There  is,  however,  a  little  place  called  Toolsboro,  under  the  hill  on  the  left 
bank,  2  m.  above  the  mouth  of  the  Iowa. 

"Pirogues:  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  1893,  p.  4.  Pike  uses  this  form  consistently. 
The  most  amusing  variant  of  the  word  I  have  noticed  occurs  in  Shea's  Henne- 
pin's Descr.  Louisiana,  Eng.  tr.,  1880,  p.  156,  where  we  read,  "a  number  of 
parrakeets  and  about  eighty  cabins  full  of  Indians,"  and  an  editorial  note  in- 
forms us  that  "the  French  printer  put  peroquets,  but  Margry's  Relation  gives 
the  real  word,  'pirogues,'  'canoes.'" 

"  The  distance  between  Muscatine  and  Rock  Island  is  28  or  29  m.  by  the 
channel.  As  Pike  has  6  or  8  m.  to  go  before  reaching  Muscatine,  makes 
"  28|^  "  to-day,  and  "  22  "  to-morrow,  we  can  confidently  set  him  down  to-night 
halfway  between  these  two  places — say  vicinity  of  Montpelier,  Muscatine  Co., 
la.,  4  or  5  m,  below  Buffalo,  la.,  and  Andalusia,  111.  There  is  no  specially 
iiot.il)le  point  in  this  whole  stretch,  after  Muscatine  is  passed  ;  the  most  of  a 
place  is  Fairport,  la.,  3  m.  above  Tahma  or  Sweetland  cr.  Several  places  that 
were  started  seem  to  have  died  young,  if  they  were  not  stillborn  ;  we  find  on 
older  maps  such  as  Geneva,  somewhere  between  Muscatine  and  Fairport  on  the 
Iowa  side,  and  Wyoming,  apparently  in  the  same  position  as  Fairport  now  is. 
lietween  Muscatine  and  Fairport  the  river  is  or  was  recently  divided  into  Drury 
slough,  Wyoming  slough,  and  Hersey  chute  betwixt  these.  Pine  cr.  falls  in  on 
the  lowan  side,  2}^m.  above  Fairport.  Opposite  Fairport  the  long  Andalusia 
slough  opens,  running  down  on  the  Illinois  side  all  the  way  from  Andalusia,  a 
distance  of  9  m.  Pike's  camp  was  probably  on  the  lowan  side  (still  in  Muscatine 
Co.) ;  across  the  river  he  has  Rock  Island  Co. ,  111. 


Hi! 


n; 


in 

:  1    ' 


f     J 


H 


DAVENPORT— ROCK   ISLAND. 


very  strong  that,  although  it  was  down  the  stream,  they 
were  near  sinking.  Encamped  about  four  miles  above  the 
Riviere  De  Roche,  on  the  W.  shore.  This  day  passed 
a  pole  on  a  prairie  on  which  five  dogs  were  hanging. 
Distance  22  miles." 

Aug-.  28th.  About  an  hour  after  we  had  embarked,  we 
arrived  at  the  camp  of  Mr.  James  Aird,"  a  Scotch  gentle- 

'•  Actually  about  i6  m,,  to  one  of  the  most  definite  locations  of  the  voyage 
thus  far,  in  the  heart  of  the  present  city  of  Davenport,  seat  of  Scott  Co.,  la.,  and 
directly  opposite  Rock  Island,  seat  of  Rock  Island  Co.,  111.  Soon  after  passing 
present  site  of  Montpelier,  Pike  went  from  Muscatine  into  Scott  Co.,  la.  Next 
are  the  two  towns  directly  opposite  each  other,  of  Buffalo,  la.,  and  Andalusia, 
111. ;  the  former  is  marked  N.  Buffalo  on  Nicollet's  map ;  the  other  is  called 
Rockport  on  Owen's  map,  or  Rockport  was  then  where  Andalusia  is  now. 
Linwood,  la.,  is  a  small  place  2  m,  above  Buffalo  ;  and  3  m.  above  this  was  the 
site  of  Rockingham,  la.  This  last  was  started  directly  opposite  the  mouth  of 
Rock  r.,  but  never  flourished.  In  fact  there  is  probably  no  place  on  the 
Mississippi  where  more  mushroom  towns  have  been  projected  on  paper  by 
unscrupulous  speculators  than  about  the  mouth  of  Rock  r. ;  and  we  observe 
that  they  mostly  had  resounding  names,  well  known  in  other  parts  of  the  world. 
A  certain  Stephensonville  is  marked  on  Nicollet's  map,  apparently  in  the  present 
position  of  the  city  of  Rock  Island.  In  the  mouth  of  Rock  r.  is  a  triangular 
island,  dividing  the  two  outlets,  and  opposite  this  is  Credit  isl.  (No,  312), 
lyim.  long.  Pike's  camp  in  Davenport  was  probably  about  opposite  the  lower 
point  of  Rock  isl.,  2^  m.  long  ;  this  is  No.  307  of  the  Engineers'  chart,  and 
its  lower  end  was  utilized  for  the  bridge  built  in  1869-72  by  the  C,  R.  I.  and 
P.  R.  R.  (Act  c^  Congr.,  July  26th,  1868). 

La  Riviire  c.'e  Roche,  or  k  la  Roche,  of  the  French,  which  Pike  and  others 
call  Stoney  or  Stony  and  Rocky  or  Rock  r.,  end  which  is  now  known  by  the 
latter  name,  is  the  second  largest  in  Illinois.  It  arises  in  Wisconsin,  in  the 
region  S.  of  Lake  Winnebago,  leaves  that  State  at  Beloit,  and  holds  a  general 
S.  W.  course  through  Illinois  to  the  Mississippi.  It  used  to  be  called  Kicka- 
poo  r. — a  name  traceable  to  R.  des  Kicapous  of  Franquelin's  map,  1688.  Tike 
gives  its  source  as  near  Green  bay  of  L.  Michigan,  and  ascribes  a  length  of  450 
m.,  300  of  them  navigable.  His  map  letters  "  The  largest  Sac  Vill."  on  its 
S.  side  near  the  mouth,  about  the  present  position  of  Milan,  and  delineates  the 
extensive  rapids  of  the  Miss.  r. ,  above  its  mouth,  which  the  text  of  the  28th 
describes.  Rock  r.  afforded  one  of  the  five  or  six  principal  waterways  between 
the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Miss,  r.,  the  connection  being  made  above  the  Horicon 
marshes  by  portage  from  the  small  stream  which  falls  into  L.  Winnebago  at 
Fond  du  Lac.     But  this  way  was  less  eligible  than  the  Fox- Wisconsin  route. 

'•  See  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  1893,  pp.  1202,  1203,  laii,  James  Aird  and  his 
brother  George  were  among  the  Sioux  traders  at  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota  or 


V 


A    t 


ROCK  RAPIDS. 


25 


man  of  Michilimackinac.  He  had  encamped,  with  some 
goods,  on  the  beach,  and  was  repairing  his  boat,  which  had 
been  injured  in  crossing  [descending]  the  rapids  of  the 
Riviere  De  Roche,  at  the  foot  of  which  we  now  were.  He 
had  sent  three  boats  back  for  the  goods  left  behind.  Break- 
fasted with  him  and  obtained  considerable  information. 
Commenced  ascending  the  rapids.  Carried  away  our  rudder 
in  the  first  rapid;  but  after  getting  it  repaired,  the  wind 
raised  and  we  hoisted  sail.  Although  entire  strangers,  we 
sailed  through  them  with  a  perfect  gale  blowing  all  the 
time;  had  we  struck  a  rock,  in  all  probability  we  would 
ha\e  bilged  and  sunk.  But  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  pass 
without  touching.  Met  Mr.  Aird's  boats,  which  had  pilots, 
fast  on  the  rocks.  Those  shoals  are  a  continued  chain  of 
rocks,  extending  in  some  places  from  shore  to  shore,  about 
18  miles  in  length.""  They  afiford  more  water  than  those  of 
De  Moyen,  but  are  much  more  rapid. 
Aug.  2()th.    Breakfasted  at    the    Reynard   village,  above 

St.  Pierre  r.  in  1803  and  thereafter  ;  others  similarly  engaged  then  and  there 
were  Archibald  Campbell,  Duncan  Graham,  and  Francis  M.  Dease. 

*•  Davenport,  la.,  to  Le  Claire,  la.,  16  m.  by  water  ;  Rock  Island,  111.,  to 
Port  Byron,  111.,  17  m.;  actual  extent  of  the  rapids  somewhat  less  than  either  of 
these  distances.  The  chains,  in  ascending  series,  are  called  Lower,  Moline, 
Duck  Creek,  Winnebago,  Campbell's,  St.  Louis,  Crab  Island,  Sycamore,  Smith's, 
Upper.  The  principal  islands  are  :  Rock,  No.  307,  2j4  m.  long,  with  the  little 
ones  called  Papoose  (No.  308),  Benham's,  and  Sylvan,  alongside  ;  Campbell's, 
opp.  Watertown,  111.;  Spencer's,  opp.  Hampton,  111.,  on  the  lowan  side  ;  and 
Fulton's.  A  number  of  creeks  make  in  on  both  sides  ;  among  them  are  Duck, 
Crow,  and  Spencer's,  on  the  lowan  side,  and  the  one  on  the  Illinois  side  which 
falls  in  by  Watertown,  name  unknown  to  me.  The  rapids  were  formerly 
guarded  by  Fort  Armstrong,  occupying  an  eligible  site  on  the  extreme  lower  end 
of  Rock  isl.  A  gc  ■■  account  of  this  post,  as  it  was  in  1817,  is  found  in 
Long's  Expedition  of  that  year,  printed  in  i860  and  reprinted  in  1890,  in  Part  I 
of  II.  of  the  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  pp.  67-73.  The  places  on  the  Illinois  side  are  : 
Moline,  3^  m.  above  Rock  Island  ;  Watertown,  5  m.  above  Moline  ;  Hamp- 
ton, I  m.  above  Moline  ;  Rapids  City,  4}^  m.  above  Hampton  ;  Port  Byron,  i 
ni.  further;  land  distances  less  than  by  river-channel.  On  the  lowan  side, 
between  Davenport  and  Le  Claire,  are  places  called  Gilberttown  or  Gilbert,  opp. 
Moline,  and  Valley  City  or  Pleasant  Valley,  opp.  Hampton.  Pike  does  not  say 
where  he  camped  at  the  head  of  the  rapids  ;  but  it  was  no  doubt  at  Le  Claire, 
as  the  channel  ran  on  the  lowan  side. 


ill 

I  !    I 

!   i 


26 


THAT  UNSPELLABLE   RIVER. 


the  rapids ;  this  is  the  first  village  of  the  Reynards."  I  ex- 
pected to  find  my  two  men  here,  but  was  disappointed. 
Finding  they  had  not  passed,  I  lay  by  until  four  o'clock, 
the  wind  fair  all  the  time.  The  chief  informed  me,  by 
signs,  that  in  four  days  they  could  march  to  Prairie  Des 
Cheins;  and  promised  to  furnish  them  with  mockinsons 
[moccasins],  and  put  them  on  their  route.  Set  sail  and 
made  at  least  four  knots  an  hour.  I  was  disposed  to 
sail  all  night ;  but  the  wind  lulling,  we  encamped  on 
the  point  of  an  island,  on  :;he  W.  shore.  Distance  20 
miles." 
Au^.  30th.     Embarked   at   five   o'clock ;   wind   fair,   but 


*'  This  Fox  Indian  village  is  located  on  Pike's  map,  but  without  name.  It 
was  on  the  lowan  side,  above  the  rapids — not  at  Le  Claire,  but  somewhat 
further  up,  at  or  near  present  town  of  Princeton,  Scott  Co.,  la.  Forsyth  in 
1 8 19  speaks  of  "the  Little  Fox  village,  9  miles  above  the  rapids."  A  mile 
above  Princeton,  on  the  Illinois  side,  is  Cordova,  marked  Cordawa  on  Owen's 
map,  and  Berlin  on  Nicollet's, 

''  At  4  m.  above  Cordova,  Pike  passed  on  the  left  or  lowan  side  a  river  whose 
name  is  perhaps  the  most  remarkable  thing  about  it :  Wabisapencun,  Pike's 
map ;  Wabisipinekan,  Pike's  text,  further  on ;  Wabisapincun,  Lewis  and 
Clark's  map  of  1814  ;  Wapisipinacon,  Long's;  Wabezipinikan,  Nicollet's; 
Wabesapinica,  Featherstonhaugh's  ;  Wapsipinicon,  Owen's  and  U.  S.  Eiig'rs'; 
Wapsipinecon,  G.  L.  O.  No  two  original  authors  agree,  and  when  one 
tries  to  copy  another  i.e  is  liable  to  be  foiled  by  his  printer.  But  the  river 
runs  on  just  the  same,  through  several  lowan  counties,  on  a  general  S.  E, 
course,  approximately  parallel  in  most  of  its  extent  with  Red  Cedar  r.  It 
also  does  duty  as  the  boundary  between  Scott  and  Clinton  cos.,  la.,  along 
most  of  their  apposed  extent.    There  are  several  islands  about  its  mouth  ;  one  of 

them   is  called  Adams.     Opposite   the  mouth  of  the  W n   r.,  for  a  space 

of  about  8  m.  along  the  Illinois  side  of  the  Mississippi,  the  hills  recede,  le.iv- 
ing  a  low  place  in  which  the  body  of  water  known  as  Marais  d'Osier,  or  Lake 
Willowmarsh,  is  situated  :  see  Pike's  map,  in  the  interval  between  his  "  High 
Prairie  "  (ending  at  Cordova)  and  his  "  Rocky  Hills  "  (beginning  about  Albany). 
Beltrami,  II.  196,  calls  this  Marais  d'Oge,  and  says  it  was  "  inhabited  by 
a  savage  of  the  same  name  "  !  Beltrami's  bosom  friend,  Major  Long,  has  a  siill 
more  startling  rendition  of  the  phrase,  as  Mer  a  Doge,  in  Minn.  Hist.  Coll., 
II.  Part  I,  i860,  2d  ed.  1890,  p.  67.  It  appears  as  Mare  de  Oge  on  an 
Illinois  atlas  before  me.  From  Le  Claire  to  Albany  is  18  m.;  Pike  probably 
did  not  get  quite  so  far  as  this,  but  for  convenience  of  keeping  tally  we  will 
assume  that  he  did,  and  set  him  on  the  lower  point  of  the  great  Beaver  isl. 
(No.  291),    at    the    mouth    of   Comanche   slough,  directly    opposite    Albany, 


C  LI  NTON—SA  B  U  LA— SAVANNA. 


27 


but 


not  very  high.     Sailed  all  day.     Passed  four  peroques  of 
Indians.     Distance  43  miles." 

Aug.  J I  St.  Embarked  early.  Passed  one  peroque  of 
Indians;  also,  two  encampments,  one  on  a  beautiful  emi- 
nence on  the  W.  side  of  the  river.    This  place  had  the 


M  ! 


nearest  place  on  the  other  side  is  Comanche  or  Canianche, 
Beaver  isl.  is  3  m.  long,  and  extends  up  to  Clinton,  the 


Whiteside  Co.,  111. 
Clinton  Co.,  la. 
county  seat. 

"  The  ilistance  by  river-channel  from  Albany  to  Dubuque  is  reckoned  ^2  m. 
Tike's  figures  are43-)-3i>i-)-25=99^  ">•  "^^^  required  reduction  of  mileage  is 
about  one-fourth  off  ;  applying  which  to  the  "  43  "  m.  of  the  30th.  we  find  Pike 
somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of  Apple  r.,  and  may  most  conveniently  set  him  at 
its  mouth.  Decamping  on  the  30th,  he  first  made  the  stretch  of  Beaver  isl., 
past  Cedar  and  Cat-tail  crs.,  right,  and  came  to  Clinton.  The  original  name  of 
this  city,  or  of  its  site,  was  New  York  ;  both  these  terms  seem  to  point  back  to 
the  time  when  Governor  Dewitt  C. .  Clinton  was  popular.  The  river  was 
spanned  here  by  the  bridge  built  by  the  C.  and  N.  W.  R.  R.  in  1864-65,  util- 
izing island  No.  290.  Two  or  three  miles  above  stand,  facing  each  other,  Lyons, 
Clinton  Co.,  la.,  and  Fulton,  Whiteside  Co.,  111.;  around  the  other  side  of  the 
hill  N.  of  Fulton,  Otter  cr.  falls  in.  The  line  of  hills  on  the  lowan  side  comes 
to  the  river  &  mile  above  Lyons,  but  at  once  recedes  again,  leaving  along  the 
river-side  what  is  called  the  Pomme  de  Terre,  Potato,  or  Ground  Apple  prairie, 
at  the  head  of  which  Elk  r.  or  cr.  falls  in,  8  m.  above  Lyons.  The  recession 
of  the  hills  on  the  Illinois  side  from  Fulton  is  much  greater  for  a  space  of  16  <  1., 
where  there  is  low  ground  for  some  miles  back  from  the  river,  sloughy  the 
whole  way  near  the  river,  and  thus  making  various  islands,  the  largest  of  which 
are  called  Fulton  and  Savanna.  Near  the  head  of  Fulton  isl.  is  a  little  place 
named  Thompson,  in  Carroll  Co.,  111.  The  line  of  Whiteside  and  Carroll 
cos,  strikes  the  river  about  halfway  between  Fulton  (town)  and  Thompson. 
On  the  lowan  side,  the  line  of  Clinton  and  Jackson  cos,  is  between  Elk  r. 
and  Sabula.  The  latter  town,  or  its  site,  used  to  be  called  Charleston.  It 
naturally  grew  after  1881,  when  the  C,  M.  and  St.  P.  R.  R.  built  the  bridge 
here,  mi'l'-r  \  •  r,f  ("ongr  ,  Apr.  1st,  1872.  The  site  of  Sabula  is  called  Prairie 
liu  K'  peur,  niiiami,  li.  p.  196,  where  it  is  said  to  have  been  "  inhabited  by 
,,.,;;  of  that  name."  Before  crossing  the  river,  the  track  ran  for  a  couple 
iiiles  on  Savann  -{.,  at  the  head  of  which  Plum  r.  falls  in  ;  and  immediately 
iDove  this  point  1  ivanna,  Carroll  Co.,  11'..,  2^  m.  from  Sabula.  The  high 
yround  C'  mes  close  to  the  river  at  Savanna,  but  on  the  lowan  side  there  is^sloughy 
I'ottom  for  4  m,  above  Sabula,  all  this  lowland  being  known  as  Keller's  isl. ; 
above  ,  .  higher  ground  comes  to  the  river-side  at  Keller's  bar.  Rush  or  Big 
kush  cr.  falls  in  on  the  Illinois  si'  5  m.  above  Savanna,  and  2  m.  further  is 
the  mouth  of  La  Pomme  or  Apple  r.,  nearly  up  to  the  boundary  between 
Carroll  and  Jo  Daviess  cos..  111.  One  Arnold  used  to  have  his  landing  a  mile 
below  Apple  r.,  about  where  we  suppose  Pike  to  have  camped. 


I ' 


t     r 


28 


FEVER,   SMALLPOX,   AND   DEATH'S  HEADS. 


appearance    of    an    old    town.     Sailed    almost    all    day. 
Distance  31^  miles." 

Sunday,  Sept.  ist.  Embarked  early ;  wind  fair ;  arrived 
at  the  lead  mines  [Dubuque,  la.]  at  twelve  o'clock.  A 
dysentery,  with  which  I  had  been  afflicted  several  days, 
was  suddenly  checked  this  morning,  which  I  believe  to  have 

*•  Whatever  the  exact  distance  represented  by  this  mileage,  we  have  to  set 
the  Expedition  down  in  a  very  unhealthy  place  to-night,  as  will  presently  appear. 
Soon  after  decamping  from  Apple  r., — that  is,  in  5   miles'  distance  by  the 
channel,  Pike  passes  on  his  left  a  notable  stream,  which  he  elsewhere  calls  the 
Great  Macoketh.      This  is  Makokety  ;.  of  Nicollet,  Maquoketa  r.  of  others, 
whose  name  is  now  usually  spelled  Makoqueta.     This  is  also  the  designatiun  01 
the  county  seat  of  Jackson,  situated  upon  the  river.     It  falls  in  opposite  Saiul 
prairie,  about  where  the  line  between  Carroll  and  Jo  Daviess  cos.  strikes  the 
river.     The  "  beautiful  eminence  on  the  W."  which  Pike  observed  is  Leopold 
hill,  near  Bellevue,  Jackson  Co.,  la.     This  town  existed  before  Nicollet's  map 
was  made,  as  he  marks  it  by  name.     The  locality  called  Cheniere  by  Beltrami 
IL  196,  was  hereabouts.     He  gives  it  on  the  W.,  10  m.  above  his  R.  la  Pomme. 
The  hills  begin  to  apjiroach  the  river  four  or  five  miles  below  Bellevue,  and  so 
continue  with  little  interruption  to  Dubuque.     The   trough   of   the  river  is 
similar  on  the  Illinois  side,  but  the  hills  do  not  hug  the  river  so  closely,  leaving 
a  stretch  of  sloughy  bottom,  especially  at  the  delta  of  the  Galena  r.     This 
is  the  insalubrious  place  of  encampment.     The  Galena  was  long  named,  and  is 
still  sometimes  called,  Fever  r.      The   same  slough   by  which    it   discharges 
receives  Smallpox   cr. ;  and  on   the  lowan  side,  opposite  Harris  slough,  wliich 
is  the  upper  end  of  the  Fev«'r  Helta,  a  creek  falls  in  known  as  Tete  du  Mort,  or 
Tete  des  Morts.     It  must  have  been  a  choice  region  of  saturnine  and  mias- 
matic  poisons,  as   the  victims  of   lead-palsy    and   ag'-e-cake    who   lived  on 
Fever  r.  had  the  option  of  moving  dov/n  on  Smallpox  cr.  or  over  to  Deatli's- 
head  cr.      The  place  to  avoid  is  pointed  out  to  Mississippian   touxists  by  Pilot 
Knob,  an  isolated  eminence  on  the  prairie  near  the  variolous  creek,  3  m.  S.  cf 
the  city  of  Galena,  which  is  about  the  same  distance  up  the  febrile  stream.    The 
cranial  creek  is  said  to  have  been  so  named  on  account  of  the  number  of  skulls 
which  resulted  from  an  Indian  fight  there.     On  this  point  Beltrami,  1828,  II. 
p.  t6o,  has  "  a  place  called  the  Death's-heads  ;  a  field  of  battle  where  the  Foxes 
defeated  the  Kikassias  [Kaskaskias?],  whose  heads  they  fixed  upon  poles  as 
trophies  of  their  victory.    We  siopped  at  the  entrnnce  of  the  river  la  Ficvre, 
a  name  in  perfect  conformity  with  the  effect  of  the  bad  air  which  prevails 
there."     Nor  do   I   know  what  terrors  may  be  hiddei    ur.der  the  name  of 
Sinsinawa  cr.,  which   makes  in   a  mile  or  two  higher  up,  on  the  Illinois  siJe. 
Two  of  the  sloughs  at  the  delta  are  called  respectively  Harris'  and  Spratt's ; 
a  third  is  Stone  slough.     One  Gordon  established  a  ferry  here,  many  years  ago, 
and  a  place  on  the   lowan  side,  close  to  the  boundary  between  Jackson  and 
Dubuque  cos.,   is   still    known    us  Gordon's  ferry.     Regarding    the    nomen- 


DUBUQUE. 


29 


been  the  occasion  of  a  very  violent  attack  of  fever  about 
eleven  o'clock.  Notwithstanding  it  was  very  severe,  I 
dressed  myself,  with  an  intention  to  execute  the  orders  of 
the  general  relative  to  this  place.  We  were  saluted  with 
a  field-piece,  and  received  with  every  mark  of  attention  by 
Monsieur  [Julien]  Dubuque,  the   proprietor.     There  were 

clature  of  Galena  r.,  we  should  not  omit  to  cite  here  Keating's  Long's  Exp.  of 
1823,   published  1824,  '.  p.   212,  where  it  is  stated  that  Smallpox  cr.  and 
Fever  r.  are  the  same  :    "  a  small    stream,  called  by  the   Indians  Mekabea 
Sepe,  or  Small-pox  river  ;  it  is  the  Riviere  de  la  P'ievre,  which  is  said  to  enter 
the  Mississippi  opposite  to  Dubuque's  mines."    Probably  not  much  weight 
attaches  to  thij  observation,  whic'i  Major  Long  only  made  parenthetically,  and 
evidently  at  second-hand  information,  in  speaking  of  a  badger  which  his  party 
had  killed  and  cooked  ;  though  it  is  also  quite  possible   that   Galena  r.  once 
rejoiced  in  both  names,  one  of  which  was  later  conferred  upon  the  small  creek 
which  enters  its  delta.     That  Long  knew  the  Galena  as  La  Fi^vre  r.  is  cer- 
tain, for  he  uses  the  latter  name,  though  without  any  accent,  in  the  narrative  of 
his  voyage  of  1817,  in  speaking  of  reaching  it  on  Monday,  July  28th,  of  that 
year.     See  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  IL  Part  I,  i860  ;  2d  ed.  1890,  p.  66.     It  appears 
that  Long's  MS.  of  his  voyage  of  1817  was  placed  in  Prof.  Keating's  hands  when 
the  latter  was  preparing  for  publication  the  history  of  Long's  Expedition  of 
1823.    This  source  of  information  was  freely  drawn  upon  ;  in  fact,  I  do  not 
see  that  Prof.  Keating  did  not  fully  a  vail  himself  of  this  opportunity  to  editori- 
ally embody  in  the  narrative  of  1823  the  whole  substance  of  the  1817  materials, 
in  so  far  as  Major  Long  went  over  the  same  ground  in  the  two  expeditions. 
Put  the  earlier  narrative  contains  consid.^rable  matter  not  pertinent  to  the  later 
one,  inasmuch  as  Major  Long  in  1817  tra  'ersed  a  long  section  of  the  Mississippi 
that  he  did  not  retrace  in  1823.     On  this  particular  account,  as  well  as  for  more 
general  reasons,  it  was  desirable  and  eminently  fitting  that  Long's  Expedition 
of  1817  should  be  published  ;  and  that  was  firs':  done  in  long  after- years  by  my 
friend,  the  late  Rev.  Edw.  D.  Neill,  the  veteran  Minnesota  historian,  who  re- 
ceived the  MS.  for  this  purpose  from  I*r.  Edwin  James,  then  of  Burlington,  It. 
(who  d.  Oct.  28th,  1861).     As  originally  published  under  Dr.  Neill's  carefvl 
editorship,  the  article  was  entitled  :  "  Voyage  in  a  Six-Oaied  Skifl  to  the  I    ils 
of  S.iint   Anthony  in   1817.      By   Major   Stephen    H.    Long,    Topographical 
Engineer  United  States  Army,"  and  formed  Part  i  of  Vol.  II.  of  the  Minn. 
Hist.  Coll.,   i860  (about   80  pages)  ;    2d  ed.    1890,  half-title  and   introduc- 
tory note  bv  E.  D.  N,,  one  leaf  ;  journal,  pp.  9-83  ;  map  and  appendix,  pre- 
pared \>y  A.  J.  Kill,  pp.  84-88.     Mr.jcr  I.onq'^  movements  of  1817  occupied 
76  tlay^,  of  whicii  the  journal  herj  printed  covers  the  period  from  July  9th  to 
Aug.  15th,  both  inclusive,  or  38  days  ;  as  it  picks  up  Major  Long  after  his  return 
to  Prairie  du  Chien  from  a  tour  of  the  Fox-Wisconsin  portage,  takes  him  from 
that  Prairie  to  the  falls,  and  returns  him  to  Bellefcntaine,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri,     The  objects  of  this  voyage  were  to  meander  the  upper  Mississippi  and 


\\m 


I  : 


30 


JULIEN  DUBUQUE— OJIBWAYS. 


^W  M- 


'*K 


no  horses  at  the  house,  and  it  was  six  miles  to  where  the 
mines  were  worked  ;  it  was  therefore  impossible  to  make 
a  report  by  actual  inspection.  I  therefore  proposed  lo 
queries,  on  the  answers  to  which  my  report  was  founded." 

Dined  with  Mr.  D.,  who  informed  me  that  the  Sioux  and 
Sauteurs "  were  as  warmly  engaged  in  opposition  as  ever ; 

take  its  topography,  with  special  reference  to  the  selection  of  military  sites.  It 
was  performed  in  a  boat  furnished  by  Governor  William  Clark,  Superintendent 
of  Indian  Affairs  at  St.  Louis.  Its  most  important  single  result  'vas  the  speedy 
occupation  of  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  r.  for  a  military  post,  at  first  called 
I'ort  St.  Anthony,  and  in  1824  named  Fort  Snelling  ;  but  the  narrative  is 
replete  with  matter  of  permanent  historical  and  scientific  interest.  Major  Long 
was  a  conscientious,  competent,  and  well-equipped  explorer,  as  all  three  of  his 
important  and  memorable  expeditions  attest.  The  present  expedition  is  the 
only  one  of  which  we  have  the  account  from  his  own  pen,  as  Dr.  James  and 
Prof.  Keating,  respectively,  were  the  authors  of  the  other  two.  Stephen  Harri- 
man  Long,  of  New  Hampshire,  was  appointed  from  that  State  a  second  lieuten- 
ant of  Engineers  Dec.  12th,  1814,  and  brevetted  major  of  Topographical  Engi- 
neers Apr.  29th,  1816,  though  his  actual  majority  in  that  corps  was  not  reached 
till  July  7th,  1838.  He  became  colonel  Sept.  9th,  1861,  was  retired  June  ist, 
1863,  and  died  at  Alton,  111.,  Sept.  4th,  1864. 

**  This  Dubuque  matter  formed  a  part  of  Doc,  No.  3  of  App.  to  Part  i  of  the 
orig.  ed.,  p.  5,  and  will  be  found  beyond:  see  Chap.  v.  Art.  3.  The  document 
was  transmitted  to  General  Wilkinson  by  Pike  from  Prairie  du  Chien. 

"  Chippewas,  or  Ojibways — of  whom  Pike  has  much  to  say  in  this  volume. 
The  French  nickname  he  uses,  found  also  as  Saulteurs,  Saulteux,  Saltiaiix, 
Sautiers,  Saltiers,  Soutors,  Soters,  etc.,  was  not  given  because  these  Indians 
were  better  jumpers  than  any  others,  but  because  the  band  of  Chippewas  whom 
it  originally  designated  lived  about  the  Sault  de  Sainte  Marie,  or  St.  Mary's 
falls,  of  Lake  Superior.  The  term  afterward  became  synonymous  with 
Chippewas  or  Ojibways  in  abroad  sense.  On  the  map  of  Champlain's  Voy., 
Paris,  1632,  the  Sault  is  marked  du  Gaston,  for  the  brother  of  Louis  XIII.,  and 
there  located  between  Mer  Douce  and  Grand  Lac,  i.  e.,  between  Lakes 
Huron  and  Superior.  The  chute  seems  to  have  been  first  heard  of  about 
1616-18,  from  one  Etienne  Brusle,  or  Stephen  Broolay.  In  1669,  when  the 
Jesuits  reached  the  place,  they  changed  the  name  to  compliment  the  B.  V.  M. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  Ojibwa  or  O  jib  way  is  preferable  to  Chippewa  or  Chijipe- 
way,  as  a  name  of  the  tribe  ;  but  the  latter  is  best  established,  both  in  oflicial 
history  and  in  geography,  and  may  be  most  conveniently  retained.  These  are 
the  same  word,  etymologically,  and  are  mere  samples  of  the  extraordinary  pro- 
fusion of  forms  in  which  the  name  exists.  Very  likely  50  different  combinations 
of  letters  could  be  produced,  some  of  them  bearing  little  resemblance  to  one 
another.  The  meaning  of  the  name  is  in  chronic  dispute.  The  linguistic 
sages  seem  to  be  agreed  that  the  word  has  something  to  do  with  puckeii»s'> 


1  , 


SIOUX— SACS — FOXES— WINNEBAGOES. 


31 


that  not  long  since  the  former  killed  15  Sauteurs,  who  on  the 
loth  of  August  in  return  killed  10  Sioux,  at  the  entrance  of 
the  St.  Peters  [Minnesota  river]  ;  and  that  a  war-party,  com- 
posed of  Sacs,  Reynards,  and  Puants  [Winnebagoes  *'],  of 
200  warriors,  had  embarked  on  an  expedition  against  the 
Sauteurs;  but  that  they  had  heard  that  the  chief,  having 
had  an  unfavorable  dream,  persuaded  the  party  to  return, 
and  that  I  would  meet  them  on  my  voyage.  At  this  place 
I  was  introduced  to  a  chief  called  Raven,  of  the  Reynards. 
He  made  a  very  flowery  speech  on  the  occasion,  which  I 
answered  in  a  few  words,  accompanied  by  a  small  present. 


but  whether  it  refers  to  the  place  which  is  puckered  up  between  the  two  lakes 
above  said,  or  to  the  way  the  moccasins  of  these  Indians  were  puckered  along 
a  peculiar  seam,  or  to  the  habits  of  these  Indians  of  torturing  with  fire  till  the 
skins  of  their  prisoners  were  puckered  by  burning  to  a  crisp,  are  questions  much 
agitated.  The  learned  Anglojibway,  Hon.  W.  W.  Warren,  historian  of  his 
tribe,  takes  the  latter  view,  saying  :  "  The  word  is  composed  of  o-jib,  '  pucker 
up,' and  tti-way,  '  to  roast,' and  it  mea-s,  'to  roast  till  puckered  up.'"  Mr. 
Warren  adduces  also  the  name  Abboinuj^  literally  Roasters,  given  by  the  Ojib- 
ways  to  the  Sioux,  from  the  same  horrid  practice.  He  says  that  the  Ojibways, 
as  a  distinct  tribe  or  people,  denominate  themselves  Awishinaubay.  Probably 
the  best  account  we  possess  of  these  Indians  is  that  given  in  the  Minn.  Hist. 
Coll.,  V.  of  which  is  almost  entirely  devoted  to  the  subject  (pp.  1-510,  1885). 
This  consists  of  Warren's  history,  based  on  traditions,  and  of  Neill's,  based 
on  documents.  The  two  thus  admirably  complement  each  other,  and  are  pre- 
ceded by  a  memoir  of  Warren,  by  J.  Fletcher  Williams. 

^  Our  name  of  these  Siouan  Indians  comes  from  their  Algonkin  Dellation, 
which  reached  us  through  an  assortment  of  French  forms  like  .linipigou 
(as  Vimont,  Relation,  1640),  etc.,  several  of  which  have  served  as  the  originals 
of  place-names  now  fixed  in  current  usage.  The  term  Puants,  meaning  Stinkers, 
was  the  French  nickname.  It  is  found  as  Puans,  Piiuns,  Pawns,  Paunts,  etc., 
originated  very  early,  and  was  much  in  vogue.  On  the  old  map  cited  in  the  fore- 
going note  appears  the  legend  "  La  Nation  des  Puans,"  though  these  Indians, 
with  their  Green  bay,  are  marked  on  it  N.  instead  of  S.  of  Lakes  Superior 
and  Huron.  The  Stinkards  gave  occasion  for  a  Latin  synonym,  as  seen  in  the 
phrase  "  Magnus  Lacus  Algonquiniorum  sen  I.acus  Foetentium  "  of  De  Creux's 
map,  Hist.  Canada,  Paris,  1664.  They  were  also  called  Gens  de  Mer,  Sea  People. 
Jean  Nicolet  of  Cherbourg  in  France,  in  the  service  of  Champlain's  Hundred 
Associates,  believed  to  have  been  the  first  white  man  to  enter  Green  bay,  in 
July,  1634,  calls  them   by  their  own  name  of  themselves,  which  he  renders 


Ochunkgraw,  and  which  later  acquired  a  variety  of  forms  ; 
and  Butterheld's  Disc.  N.  W.,  i8Bi,/o«iw,  esp.  p.  38. 


see  note  *•,  p.  39, 


32 


TURKEY  RIVER— CASSVILLE. 


I  had  now  given  up  all  iiopes  of  my  two  men,  and  was 
about  to  embark  when  a  peroque  arrived,  in  which  they 
were,  with  a  Mr.  Blondeau,  and  two  Indians  whom  that  gen- 
tleman had  engaged  above  the  rapids  of  Stony  [Rock]  river. 
The  two  soldiers  had  been  six  days  without  anything  to  eat 
except  muscles  [mussels],  when  they  met  Mr.  James  Aird, 
by  whose  humanity  and  attention  their  strength  and  spirits 
were  in  a  measure  restored ;  and  they  were  enabled  to  reach 
the  Reynard  village,  where  they  met  Mr.  B.  The  Indian 
chief  furnished  them  with  corn  and  shoes,  and  showed  his 
friendship  by  every  possible  attention.  I  immediately  dis- 
charged the  hire  of  the  Indians,  and  gave  Mr.  Blondeau  a 
passage  to  the  Prairie  des  Cheins.  Left  the  lead  mines  at 
four  o'clock.     Distance  25  miles." 

Sept.  2d.  After  making  two  short  reaches,  we  com- 
menced one  which  is  30  miles  in  length  ;  the  wind  serving, 
we  just  made  it,  and  encamped  on  the  E.  side  [near  Cassville, 
Wis.],  opposite  the  mouth  of  Turkey  river.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  we  landed  to  shoot  pigeons.  The  moment  a  gun 
was  fired,  some  Indians,  who  were  on  the  shore  above  us, 
ran  down  and  put  off  in  their  peroques  with  great  precipita- 
tion ;  upon  which  Mr.  Blondeau  informed  me  that  all  the 
women  and  children  were  frightened  at  the  very  name  of  an 
American  boat,  and  that  the  men  held  us  in  great  respect, 
conceiving  us  very  quarrelsome,  much  for  war,  and  also  very 

"Pike  did  not  get  far  from  Dubuque,  if  he  left  at  4  p.  m.  He  probably 
stopped  at  the  first  convenient  place  to  camp  above  the  bluff,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Little  Makoqueta  r. — perhaps  on  the  spot  virhere  Sinipi,  Sinipee,  or  Siiiope 
was  started.  In  bringing  him  up  to  Dubuque  from  the  Galena  delta  we  have 
not  much  to  note:  Suisinawa,  Sinsinawa,  or  Sinsinniwa  r.,  right  ;  Menomo- 
nee  cr.,  right,  and  Catfish  cr.,  left,  between  which  is  Nine  Mile  isl. ;  Massey. 
la.,  town  at  Dodge's  branch;  East  Dubuque,  111.,  rather  below  the  large  city  of 
Dubuque.  This  is  the  oldest  establishment  in  Iowa,  as  the  Canadian  French- 
man Julien  Dubuque  came  there  in  178S  ;  extinction  of  Indian  titk  and  perma 
nent  settlement  not  till  1833  ;  town  incorporated  1837  ;  city  charter,  1S40  ;  p'lp. 
3,roo  in  1850;  for  the  rest,  see  any  gazetteer  or  cyclopedia.  With  this  day's 
journey  Pike  finishes  Illinois,  which  has  been  on  his  right  all  the  way,  and  tai;es 
Wisconsin  on  that  side  ;  but  Iowa  continues  on  his  left.  The  interstate  line 
runs  on  the  parallel  of  42"  30'  N.,  which  cuts  through  Dubuque. 


vp 


LITTLE   MAKOQUETA,   PLATTE,  AND   GRANT   RIVERS.     33 

brave.  This  information  I  used  as  prudence  suggested. 
We  stopped  at  an  encampment  about  three  miles  below  the 
town,  where  they  gave  us  some  excellent  plums.  They 
dispatched  a  peroque  to  the  village,  to  give  notice,  as  I  sup- 
posed, of  our  arrival.  It  commenced  raining  about  dusk, 
and  rained  all  night.  Distance  40  miles." 
Sept.  3d,     Embarked  at  a  pretty  early  hour.    Cloudy. 


^'From  Dubuque  to  Cassville  is  only  30  m.,  and  Pike  was  somewhat  ad- 
vanced beyond  Dubuque  when  he  started.  "  The  mouth  of  Turkey  river," 
opp.  which  he  camped,  is  of  course  a  fixed  point ;  and  this  shows  the  required 
reduction  of  his  "40"  miles  to  somewhat  under  30.  Determinations  like  these 
would  be  proof,  were  any  needed,  of  the  proposition  advanced  at  the  start,  that 
the  set  of  mileages  with  which  we  have  to  deal  require  a  discount  of  20  to  25 
per  cent,  as  a  rule.  In  making  his  "two  short  reaches,"  Pike  passed  his  Little 
Macoketh,  the  Little  Makoqueta  r.,  on  his  left,  and  the  extensive  slough  on 
his  right  which  receives  the  discharges  of  Platte  and  Grant  rivers.  He  maps 
the  former  river :  see  the  unnamed  stream  on  the  left,  where  "  M'.  Dubuques 
Houfe"  and  "Lead  Mines"  are  lettered.  The  other  two  rivers  are  not  laid 
down;  they  run  in  Grant  Co.,  Wis.  Beltrami,  II.  196,  has  a  locality  on  the 
W.  said  to  be  16  m.  above  Dubuque's  mines,  and  to  be  called  Prairie  Macotche, 
"  from  the  name  of  a  savage  who  inhabited  it."  This  item  is  no  doubt  imagi- 
nary ;  but  Macotche  is  clearly  the  same  word  as  Makoqueta.  Pike's  "  long  reach  " 
is  the  15  m.  or  more  where  the  river  is  straight ;  it  begins  about  Specht's  Ferry 
(opp.  which  the  Potosi  canal  was  dug  for  an  outlet  of  Grant  r.)  and  extends 
to  Turkey  r.  On  the  left,  about  halfway  along  this  stretch,  is  the  town  of 
Waupeton  (Wahpeton,  Warpeton,  etc.),  at  or  near  which  the  boundary  between 
Dubuque  and  Clayton  cos.  strikes  the  Mississippi ;  the  town  of  Buenavista,  Clay- 
ton Co.,  la.,  is  3I2  m.  higher,  between  Plum  and  Panther  crs.  On  the  right  a 
snicarty  II  m.  long  connects  Grant  r.  with  Jack  Oak  slough,  at  the  head  of  which 
Cassville  is  situated,  at  the  mouth  of  Furnace  cr.,  and  obliquely  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Turkey  r.  Some  places  which  started  along  the  river  have  failed,  or 
changed  their  names ;  I  do  not  now  find  Osceola,  which  maps  mark  near  the 
mouth  of  Platte  r. ;  mr  Lafayette,  which  started  about  the  present  site  of  Potosi, 
and  is  now  marked  by  some  dilapidated  chimneys  you  will  observe  when  the 
C. ,  B.  and  Q.  train  stoj,  >  at  a  sort  of  station  there  ;  nor  Frenchtown  and  Finlay , 
both  on  the  lowan  side,  the  latter  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek  called  Bastard  on  a 
map  of  1857  ;  nor  Frankford,  at  or  near  Buenavista  ;  nor  Winchester,  about 
the  mouth  of  Turkey  r.  Whether  by  accident  or  design,  Grant  r.  is  lettered 
"  Le  Grand  R."  on  Nicollet's  map.  The  Fox  village,  whose  women  and  chil- 
dren were  so  frightened  at  the  sight  of  the  Americans,  is  marked  by  Pike  on 
the  N.  side  of  Turkey  r.,  near  its  mouth,  about  where  Winchester  seems  to 
have  stood.     Present  Turkey  R.  Junction  of  the  C,  M.  and  St.  P.  R.  R.  is  on 

the  other  side.     This  stream  is  "Turkies"  r.  of  Beltrami,  II.  p.  196. 


:ii^ 


t  I 


^^1 


\'\ 


V' 


34 


CLAYTON — WYALUSING. 


Met  two  peroques  of  family  Indians  ;  they  at  first  asked 
Mr.  Blondeau  "if  we  were  for  war,  or  if  going  to  war?"  I 
now  experienced  the  good  effect  of  having  some  person  on 
board  who  could  speak  their  language  ;  for  they  presented 
me  with  three  pair  of  ducks  and  a  quantity  of  venison, 
sufficient  for  all  our  crew  for  one  day ;  in  return,  I  made 
them  some  trifling  presents.  Afterward  met  two  peroques, 
carrying  some  of  the  warriors  spoken  of  on  the  2d  inst. 
They  kept  at  a  great  distance,  until  spoken  to  by  Tr.  B., 
when  they  informed  h'm  that  theii  party  had  proceer  ed  up 
as  high  as  Lake  Pepin  without  effecting  anything.  It  is 
surprising  what  a  dread  the  Indians  in  this  quarter  have  of 
the  Americans.  I  have  often  seen  them  go  round  islands 
to  avoid  meeting  my  boat.  It  appears  to  me  evident  that 
the  traders  have  taken  great  pains  to  impress  upon  the 
minds  of  the  savages  the  idea  of  our  being  a  very  vindictive, 
ferocious,  and  warlike  people.  This  impression  was  perhaps 
made  with  no  good  intention  ;  but  when  they  find  that  our 
conduct  toward  them  is  guided  by  magnanimity  and  justice, 
instead  of  operating  in  an  injurious  manner,  it  will  have  the 
effect  to  make  them  reverence  at  the  same  time  they  fear 
us.     Distance  25  miles." 

*"  Probably  19  m.,  Cassville  to  Clayton,  la.,  whence  he  could  go  comfortably 
for  breakfast  to  Wyalusing,  Wis.,  or  still  nearer  the  Wisconsin  r.  Above  the 
mouth  of  Turkey  r.  the  Miss,  r.  is  divided  into  two  courses,  called  the  Cas- 
ville  slough  on  the  Wisconsin  side  and  the  Guttenberg  channel  on  the  lowan 
side.  The  latter  is  the  broadest  course,  but  the  former  is,  or  was  some  years 
ago,  the  main  channel.  The  two  come  together  10  m.  above  Cassville,  and 
a  mile  or  two  above  Glen  Haven,  Wis.  Guttenberg,  la.,  is  8  m.  above  Cass- 
ville, at  the  mouth  of  Miners,  Miner's,  or  Miners'  cr. ;  it  seems  to  have  been 
formerly  called  Prairie  La  Port,  as  marked  on  Nicollet's  map.  Buck  or  Back 
cr.  falls  in  a  mile  above.  Approaching  Clayton  the  banks  are  high  and  abrupt 
on  the  lowan  side,  but  on  the  other  the  hills  recede,  leaving  a  sloughy  bottom 
into  which  several  creeks  empty,  one  of  them  Sandy  cr, ,  which  conies  by  a 
sort  of  sand-bank.  In  this  vicinity  there  was  a  place  cdled  Cincinnati,  Wis,, 
which  seems  to  have  disappear<'d,  like  another  called  Kilroy,  on  the  lowan 
side.  Owen's  map  marks  Killroy,  Clayton  Co.  map  of.  1857  has  Keleroy,  ami 
Nicollet  lays  down  the  sizable  creek  near  which  it  appears  to  have  been  situated, 
now  known  as  the  Sny  Magill,  The  distance  from  Clayton  to  Wyalusing  is 
3  m. ;   thence  it  is  about  the  same  to  the  Wisconsin  r. 


WISCONSIN   RIVER. 


35 


Sept.  4.th.  Breakfasted  just  below  the  Ouiscousing  [Wis- 
consin river  *'!•  Arrived  at  the  Prairie  des  Cheins  about 
eleven  o'clock  ;  took  quarters  at  Captain  Fisher's,  and  were 
politely  received  by  !iim  and  Mr.  Frazer. 


ifortably 
bove  the 
the  Cas- 
lowan 
le  years 
lille,  and 
re  Cass- 
■e  been 
jor  Back 
abrupt 
bottom 
les  by  a 
[i,  Wis., 
Towan 
loy,  ami 
lituated, 
Ising  i^ 


*'  R.  des  Ouisconsins  on  Hennepin's  map,  1683,  and  thus  near  the  modern 
form,  though  in  the  plural  for  the  Indians  and  v  1th  ott  for  the  letter  7u  that  the 
F.  alphabet  lacks  ;  in  Hennepin's  text,  passim,  Ouscousin.  Oviscousin  Oniscon- 
sin,  Misconsin,  etc. ,  according  to  typesetter's  fancy  ;  Ouisconsing,  Misconsing, 
etc.,  in  La  Salle,  and  there  also  Meschetz  Odeba  ;  Miscou,  Joliet  on  one 
of  his  maps,  Miskonsing  on  another ;  Ouisconching,  Perrot ;  Ouisconsinc, 
Lahontan's  map ;  Ouisconsing,  Franquelin's  map,  1688  ;  Ouisronsin,  Carver ; 
variable  in  Pike  ;  Owisconsin  and  Owisconsing  in  Beltrami ;  Wisconsan,  con- 
sistently, in  Long ;  Wisconsin  in  Nicollet,  and  most  writers  since  his  time. 
Were  it  not  for  La  Salle's  appearance  on  the  Illinois  r.  in  1680,  and  his  send- 
ing Hennepin  down  it  to  the  Mississippi,  when  he  dispatched  Michael  Accault 
and  Antoine  Auguelle  from  Fort  Crevecoeur  to  trade  with  the  Chaas,  the  Wis- 
consin would  rank  first  in  historical  significance  as  a  waterway  to  the  Mississippi 
from  the  Great  Lakes  ;  and  such  priority  of  date  is  offset  in  favor  of  the  Wiscon- 
sin as  the  best  and  most  traveled  route  from  the  lakes  to  points  below  the  Falls  of 
St.  Anthony.  It  was  already  an  Indian  highway  when  it  was  first  known  to  the 
and  whites,  did  not  cease  to  be  such  when  the  paddle  was  exchanged  for  the 
paddlewheel.  A  pretty  full  account  of  the  Fox- Wisconsin  route  will  be  rendered 
beyond  in  this  work.  There  are  accounts  of  white  settlements,  or  at  least  trading- 
posts,  at  Prairie  du  Chien  about  1755  ;  but  white  men  may  have  lived  in  this 
vicinity,  if  not  upon  the  spot,  long  before  that,  for  Franquelin's  map  of  1688 
locates  a  certain  Fort  St.  Nicolas  in  what  appears  to  be  the  position  of  P. 
du  Chien,  as  well  as  I  can  judge.  Moreover,  Joliet  and  Marquette  reached 
the  Mississippi  r.  by  way  of  the  Fox-Wisconsin,  June  15th  or  17th,  1673.  Our 
most  definite  information,  however,  dates  from  Oct.  15th,  1766,  when  Carver 
came  to  the  spot.  He  reached  it  by  the  Fox-Wisconsin  route,  went  up  the 
Mississippi  as  high  as  the  river  St.  Francis,  wintered  1766-67  up  the  St.  Peter, 
returned  to  P.  du  C.  in  the  summer  of  1767,  went  up  the  Mississippi  again  to 
the  Chippewa  r.,  and  by  that  river  back  to  the  Great  Lakes  in  July,  1767.  He 
called  the  place  Prairie  le  Chien  ;  at  the  time  of  his  visit  it  was  "  a  large  '.own 
containing  about  300  families,"  with  houses  well  built  after  the  Indian  fashion, 
and  a  great  trade  center  for  all  the  country  roundabout.  Carver  also  called  the 
place  Dog  Plains.  This  is  plain  as  a  transl.  of  the  F.,  and  nobody  doubts  what 
Prairie  du  Chien  denotes  ;  what  it  connotes,  however,  or  its  actual  implication, 
is  another  question  which  has  been  much  mooted.  Pike  states  elsewhere  in 
this  work  that  the  place — which,  by  the  way,  he  seldom  if  ever  calls  Prairie 
du  Chien,  but  de  Chein,  des  Cheins,  etc. — was  named  for  Indiana  who  lived 
here,  known  as  Reynards,  etc.,  and  would  translate  this  F.  nickname  either  Fox, 
Wolf,  or  Dog  ;  in  one  place  he  has  Dog's  Plain.  But  Wolf  or  Dog  does  not 
seem  to  liave  been  the  name  used  for  this  tribe,  which,  when  they  were  not  called 


36 


PRAIRIE  DU   CHIEN. 


Sept.  5th.  Embarked  about  half-past  ten  o'clock  in  a 
Schenectady  boat,  to  go  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ouiscousing, 
in  order  to  take  the  latitude  [which  I  found  to  be  43*  28'  8" 


Ottagamies  (or  by  some  form  of  that  word)  were  either  the  Reynards  of  the 
French  or  the  Foxes  of  the  English  and  Americans.  Beltrami,  II.,  p.  170,  has 
that  "it  takes  its  name  from  an  Indian  family  whom  the  first  Frenchmen  met  there, 
called  Kigigad  or  Dog."  The  whole  weight  of  evidence  is  on  the  side  of  a  per- 
sonal name  in  the  singpilar  number.  Long  states  that  P.  du  C.  was  named  after 
an  Indian  who  lived  there  and  was  called  the  Dog.  This  may  bear  on  Pike's 
statement,  and  the  latter  may  be  explicable  upon  the  understanding  that  it  refers 
to  certain  Indians,  not  necessarily  of  the  Reynard  tribe,  who  were  called  Dog 
Indians,  t.  e..  The  Dog's  Indians.  Nicollet  marks  the  Indian  town  by  the 
Chippewa  name,  Kipy  Saging  ;  Schoolcraft  renders  this  Tipisagi,  with  reference 
to  the  treaty  of  Prairie  du  Chien.  At  the  time  of  Long's  1823  visit  the  village 
had  about  20  dwelling-houses  besides  the  stores,  most  of  them  old  and  some 
decaying  ;  the  pop.  was  about  150.  He  located  the  place  as  in  lat.  43°  3'  31"  N., 
long.  90"  52'  30"  W.;  magn.  var,  8'  48'  52"  E.  Long  speaks  of  one  Mr.  Bris- 
bois,  who  had  long  resided  there  ;  of  Mr.  Rolette  of  the  Am.  Fur  Co. ;  and  of 
Augustin  Roque,  a  half-breed  and  whole-fraud,  to  whom  we  shall  refer  again. 
Fort  Crawford  began  to  be  built  July  3d,  1816,  by  the  troops  under  the  com- 
mand of  Lieutenant-Colonel  William  S.  Hamilton  of  North  Carolina,  who  had 
attained  that  rank  in  the  3d  Rifles  Feb.  21st,  1814,  and  who  resigned  from  the 
army  March  8th,  1817  ;  it  would  hold  four  or  five  companies,  but  was  a  mean 
establishment,  poorly  built  on  a  bad  site,  too  near  Rousseau  channel  and  the 
Kipy  Saging  slough.  Long  relates  that  in  1822  the  fort  as.  well  as  the  village 
was  inundated,  so  that  the  water  stood  three  or  four  feet  deep  on  the  parade 
ground  and  ran  into  the  officers'  quarters  and  the  barracks,  forcing  the  garrison 
to  camp  for  a  month  on  higher  ground.  One  of  the  blockhouses  of  the  fort  was 
built  on  a  mound  which  was  large  enough  to  have  supported  the  whole  estab- 
lishment, though  only  the  stockade  ran  up  to  it.  Through  the  attentions  of 
\Vm.  Hancock  Clark  of  Detroit,  Mich.,  I  am  in  possession  of  a  water-color 
picture  of  the  fort,  roughly  but  tellingly  done  by  his  illustrious  grandfather, 
William  Clark,  who  with  Governor  Lewis  Cass  effected  the  important  treaty  of 
P.  du  C,  Aug.  19th,  1825.  This  measures  i8  X  IS  inches,  and  shows  a  part  of 
the  stockade  straggling  up  to  that  one  of  the  blockhouses  which  was  on  the  hill 
or  mound,  as  described  by  Long.  The  general  effect  upon  the  beholder  is  to 
suggest  something  of  a  cross  between  a  penitentiary  and  a  stockyard,  but  unsafe 
for  criminals  and  too  small  for  cattle.  The  remains  are  extant,  and  may  be 
observed  about  40  rods  W.  of  the  railroad  track,  half  a  mile  S.  of  the  station  of 
the  C. ,  B.  and  Q.  This  Fort  Crawford  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  earlier 
one  of  the  same  name,  built  in  18 12  or  sooner,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  town,  close 
to  Rousseau  channel.  This  site  was  near  the  positions  of  the  two  early  French 
settlements,  as  distinguished  from  the  later  one  that  grew  up  S.  of  the  site  of 
the  second  Fort  Crawford.     Our  actual  settlement,  continued  on  as  the  Prairie 


M<=GREGOR — GAILLARD'S  RIVER. 


37 


N.],  and  look  at  the  situation  of  the  adjacent  hills  for  a 
post.  Was  accompanied  by  Judge  Fisher,  Mr.  Frazer,  and 
Mr.  Woods.    We  ascended  the  hill "  on  the  west  side  of  the 


(lu  Chien  of  to-day,  only  dates  .';oin  1835  or  thereabouts,  after  the  cessation  of 
Indian  hostilities  in  that  quarter ;  the  town  is  now  the  seat  of  Crawford  Co., 
Wis.  It  is  in  the  very  S.  W.  corner  of  the  county,  which  is  separated  from 
Grant  Co.  by  the  Wisconsin  r.  The  bridge  across  the  Mississippi  to  N. 
McGregor  was  built  in  1873-74  and  altered  in  1888  ;  C,  M.  and  St.  P.  R.  R.; 
Act  of  Congr.  legalizing,  June  6th,  1874.  Notwithstanding  its  prominent  situ- 
ation its  distinguished  history,  and  its  comparative  antiquity,  Prairie  du  Chien 
has  never  amounted  to  much,  and  probably  never  will.  There  is  nothing  the 
matter  with  the  place — the  trouble  is  with  the  people.  The  place  to-day  cuts  a 
lesser  figure  than  it  did  in  Pike's  time,  when  it  was  our  extreme  frontier  post  in 
that  direction,  and  it  continued  to  be  such  until  Fort  St.  Anthony  (Snelling) 
was  built.  A  part  of  the  difficulty  is  ecclesiastical  ;  no  priest-ridden  community 
can  expect  to  keep  up  with  the  times.  Prairie  du  Chien  is  an  antique  curio, 
comparing  with  the  rest  of  Wisconsin  very  much  as  Quebec  does  with  Ontario— 
and  for  similar  reasons. 

"The  bluff  W.  bank  of  the  Miss,  r.,  opp.  P.  du  C,  was  later  called  Pike's 
mountain ;  which,  says  Long's  MSB.  of  1817,  No.  i,  fol.  37,  as  cited  by  Keat- 
ing, 1824,  received  its  name  from  having  been  recommended  by  the  late  Gen- 
eral Pike,  in  his  journal,  "  as  a  position  well  calculated  for  the  construction  of  a 
military  post  to  command  the  Mississippi."  But  this  recommendation  is  no- 
where made  in  Pike's  journal :  it  is  made  in  a  letter  which  Pike  wrote  to  Gen- 
eral Wilkinson  from  P.  du  C,  this  date  of  Sept.  5th,  as  the  above  text  says, 
and  which  formed  in  the  orig.  ed.  Doc.  No.  2  of  the  App.  to  Part  i — the  same 
that  covered  the  Dubuque  report.  The  particular  hill  that  Pike  picked  out  does 
not  diiTer  from  the  general  range  of  bluffs  which  extend  on  that  side  of  the  river 
for  seve.al  miles,  all  of  about  the  same  elevation.  But  to  be  particular,  it  was 
that  hill  which  stands  between  McGregor  and  N.  McGregor.  The  original  set- 
tlement of  McGregor  was  called  in  the  first  instance  McGregor's  landing.  This 
was  I  %  mile  below  N.  McGregor,  built  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek  that  comes 
down  by  Pike's  mountain.  This  stream  used  to  be  known  as  Giard  or  Gayard 
r.  (latter  on  Pike's  map),  and  these  were  common  spellings  of  the  name  of  a 
person  otherwise  known  as  Gaillard,  of  mixed  French-Indian  blood,  said  to 
have  been,  with  Antaya  and  Dubuque,  one  of  the  three  first  white  settlers  at 
Prairie  du  Chien,  and  by  Long  to  have  died  suddenly  during  the  latter's  expedi- 
tion up  the  Wisconsin  r.  The  present  name  of  the  creek  is  Bloody  Run, 
which  may  easily  have  acquired  if  it  did  not  deserve  the  designation  in  some  one 
or  more  of  the  imcounted  fierce  collisions  of  this  blood-bnied  region.  But  tra- 
dition, if  not  authentic  history,  ascribes  the  origin  of  the  sanguinary  title  to  the 
Nimrodic  exploits  of  the  celebrated  Captain  Martin  Scott,  a  mighty  hunter  who 
used  to  kill  so  much  game  in  that  vicinity  that  he  was  said  to  have  made  this 
stream  literally  run  with  blood.     But  so  much  used  to  be  told  about  Captain 


■'   'i 


% 


M 


38 


MILITARY   SITES— INDIAN  COUNCIL. 


Mississippi,  and  made  choice  of  a  spot  which  I  thought 
most  eligible,  being  level  on  the  top,  having  a  spring  in  the 
rear,  and  commanding  a  view  of  the  country  around.  A 
shower  of  rain  came  on  which  completely  wet  us,  and  we 
returned  to  the  village  without  having  ascended  the  Ouis- 
cousing  as  we  intended.  Marked  four  trees  with  A.  B.  C. 
D.,  and  squared  the  sides  of  one  in  the  center.  Wrote  to 
the  general. 

Sept.  6th.  Had  a  small  council  with  the  Puants,  and  a 
chief  of  the  lower  band  of  the  Sioux.  Visited  and  laid  out 
a  position  for  a  post,  on  a  hill  called  the  Petit  Gris  [Gres]," 
on  the  Ouiscousing,  three  miles  above  its  mouth.  Mr. 
Fisher,  who  accompanied  me,  was  taken  very  sick,  in  conse- 
quence  of  drinking  some  water  out  of  the  Ouiscousing, 
The  Puants  never  have  any  white  interpreters,  nor  have  the 
Fols  Avoin  [Folle  Avoine  (Menominee)**]  nation.     In  my 


Scott— on  whom  was  fathered  in  thor .  jjdrts  the  story  of  the  coon  which  prom- 
ised to  come  down  if  he  would  not  shoot,  elsewhere  connected  with  the  name 
of  Davy  Crockett — that  the  legends  concerning  him  may  pass  for  what  they 
may  be  worth.  The  mouth  of  this  creek  is  3  m.  below  that  of  Yellow  r.,  and 
the  boundary  between  Clayton  and  Allamakee  cos.  strikes  the  Mississi[)pi 
between  the  two,  though  very  near  the  mouth  of  the  latter. 

*'See  note  anteti,  p.  5,  where  the  phrase  Cap  au  Gris  is  mentioned.  Tike's 
term  Petit  Gris,  elsewhere  Petit  Grey,  would  be  preferably  rendered  Petit  Cap 
au  Gris,  in  the  peculiar  system  of  phonetics  which  our  Parisian  friends  are  wont 
to  enjoy.  This  Little  Sandstone  bluff  extends  up  the  Wisconsin  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Bridgeport.  A  small  creek  which  comes  down  a  break  in  the  bluff,  and 
empties  into  the  N.  side  of  the  Wisconsin  a  mile  above  its  mouth,  is  also  named 
Petit  Gris  or  Gris.  There  was  also  a  Grand  Gris  in  that  vicinity — to  judge 
from  a  creek  I  find  on  some  maps  by  the  name  of  Grandgris — perhaps  the 
branch  of  the  Wisconsin  now  known  as  Kickapoo  r.  Pike's  recommendation 
of  the  Petit  Gris  as  a  military  site  was  never  acted  upon. 

**  I  think  Pike  never  once  hits  what  a  grammarian  would  consider  the  proper 
way  to  write  this  phrase.  Wherever  he  happens  upon  it,  the  gender  or  the 
number  gets  awry.  The  hitch  in  pluralizing  seems  to  be  because  the  first  s  is 
sounded  before  the  initial  vowel  of  the  next  word,  but  the  last  s  is  silent,  be- 
cause the  French  seldom  articulate  their  letters  at  par.  Folle  avoine,  literally 
"fool  oat" — a  phrase  also  reflected  in  the  Latin  term  avena  /atua—k  the 
Canadian  French  name  of  the  plant  known  to  botanists  as  Zizania  aqiuitica, 
and  to  us  common  folks  as  wild  rice,  wild  oats,  water-rice,  water-oats,  Indian  or 
Canadian  rice  or  oats,  etc.     My  friend  Prof.  Lester  F.  Ward,  whom  I  desired 


wmm"^ 


DEPARTURE   FROM   PRAIRIE   DU   CHIEN. 


39 


council  I  spoke  to  a  Frenchman  and  he  to  a  Sioux,  who 
interpreted  to  some  of  the  Puants. 

Sc/>t.  Tth.  My  men  beat  all  the  villagers  jumping  and 
hopping.     Began  to  load  my  new  boats. 

Sept.  8th.  Embarked  at  half-past  eleven  o'clock  in  two 
batteaux.  The  wind  fair  and  fresh.  I  found  myself  very 
much  embarrassed  and  cramped  in  my  new  boats,  with  pro- 
vision and  baggage.  I  embarked  two  interpreters,  one  to 
perform  the  whole  voyage,  whose  name  was  Pierre  Rosseau 
[Rousseau"]  ;  and  the  other  named  Joseph  Reinulle  [Rein- 
to  prepare  the  botanical  definitions  for  the  Century  Dictionary,  and  who  did 
write  them,  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  F.  H.  Knowlton,  after  the  lamented 
death  of  Prof.  Sereno  Watson,  Prof.  Asa  Gray's  successor  at  Cambridge,  de- 
fines Zizania  as  "  a  genus  of  grasses,  of  the  tribe  Oryzea.  It  is  characterized 
by  numerous  narrow  unisexual  spikelets  in  a  long,  loose  androgynous  panicle, 
each  spiitelet  having  two  glumes  and  six  stamens  or  two  more  or  less  connate 
styles."  This  would  be  news  to  the  Menominees,  though  these  Indians  sub- 
sisted so  largely  upon  the  seeds  of  the  plant  that  the  French  called  them  les 
FoUes  Avoines,  and  the  English  knew  them  as  the  Rice-eaters.  This  rice 
grows  in  profusion  in  all  the  lacustrine  regions  of  the  N.  W. ,  and  is  regularly 
harvested  by  all  the  Indians  of  that  country,  to  be  sold  or  bartered  as  well  as 
eaten  by  them.  Its  great  size,  its  purplish  spike-like  heads  when  ripe,  and  its 
omnipresence,  render  it  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  products  of  the  region. 
The  Indians  do  not  cut  the  stalk  as  we  reap  our  cereals,  because  the  loose  grains 
fall  so  readily  that  the  easiest  way  to  gather  them  is  to  simply  shake  or  beat  them 
into  a  canoe.  As  to  the  polyglot  council  which  Pike  held  with  the  Puants,  we 
may  hope  without  believing  that  the  Winnebagoes  were  deeply  impressed  by  the 
combination  of  New  Jersey  and  Canadian  French  which  fell  upon  their  ears 
tlirough  the  Dakotan  tongue.  It  is  true  that  the  Winnebagoes  come  of  Siouan 
stock,  and  so  have  some  linguistic  affinity  with  the  Sioux  ;  but  the  dialect  they 
acquired  is  conceded  by  all  philologists  to  be  peculiar  to  themselves,  and  pecu- 
liarly difficult  to  utter.  The  Winnebago  spoken  at  this  council  was  probably  as 
different  from  the  Dakotan  as  Latin  is  from  its  cognate  Greek,  or  even  as  Pike's 
French  was  from  that  spoken  in  Montreal  or  Paris.  The  Winnebagoes  call 
themselves  by  a  name  which  is  rendered  Otchagra  by  Long,  Howchungera  by 
Featherstonhaugh,  Hotcafigara  by  Powell  ;  also  Ochungarand,  Hohchunhgrah, 
and  in  various  other  ways  which  authors  prefer  and  printing-offices  permit  : 
see  note",  p.  31.  Since  Charlevoix  they  have  been  known  as  Puans,  Puants, 
or  Stinkers — and  they  deserve  to  be.  Their  vernacular  is  noted  for  the  pre- 
dominance of  the  growler  or  dog-letter  r,  litera  canina  of  the  Latin  gram- 
marians. 

"P.illon's  Ann.  St.  Louis,  1804-21,  pub.  1888,  p.  382,  is  obviously  in  error 
instating  that  Pierre  Rousseau  embarked  with  Pike  at  St.  Louis  ;    for  here  we 


;:   I 


i*;! 


1  1 


*"    ' 


40 


ROUSSEAU— REINVILLE—FRAZER. 


ville  *•],  paid  by  Mr.  Frazer  to  accompany  me  as  high  as  the 
falls  of  St.  Anthony.  Mr.  Frazer"  is  a  young  gentleman, 
clerk  to  Mr.  Blakely  of  Montreal;  he  was  born  in  Vermont, 
but  has  latterly  resided  in  Canada.  To  the  attention  of  this 
gentleman  I  am  much  indebted ;  he  procured  for  me  every- 

have  him  first  hired  at  P.  du  C.  I  know  nothing  further  of  the  man  ;  but  he 
is  doubtless  the  one  from  whom  Rousseau  channel  of  the  Miss,  r.,  which  runs 
past  P.  du  C.  on  the  Wis.  side,  as  distinguished  from  the  main  steamboat  chan- 
nel past  McGregor  on  the  lowan  side,  derived  its  name. 

**  Joseph  Reinville  or  Renville  was  the  name  of  two  persons,  father  and  son, 
former  French-Canadian,  latter  half-breed  by  a  Sioux  squaw  of  the  village  of 
Petit  Corbeau  or  Little  Raven  (Kaposia).  Long  extolls  him  for  ability  and 
fidelity  as  an  interpreter,  remarking  that  he  had  met  with  few  men  that  appeared 
"  to  be  gifted  with  a  more  inquiring  and  discerning  mind,  or  with  more  force 
and  penetration,"  Keating,  Exp.  of  1823,  I.  p.  312.  Reinville  naturally  ac- 
quired great  influence  over  the  Indians,  and  when  the  British  decided  to  use 
such  allies  in  the  war  of  1812-14,  he  was  selected  by  Colonel  Robert  Dickson 
as  the  man  who  could  be  most  relied  upon  to  command  the  Sioux.  In  his  mili- 
tary capacity  he  received  the  rank,  pay,  and  emoluments  of  a  captain  in  the 
British  army,  and  distinguished  himself  as  well  by  humanity  as  by  gallantry  in 
war.  After  this  he  entered  the  service  of  the  H.  B.  Co.;  left  it,  relinquishing 
also  his  British  pension,  and  returned  to  his  old  trading-post  near  the  sources  of 
Red  r. ,  where  he  established  the  successful  Columbia  Fur  Co.  Reinville  had 
that  energy  and  independence  which  enabled  him  to  decide  for  himself  and  act 
upon  his  decisions ;  he  therefore  made  bitter  enemies  as  well  as  warm  friends, 
whose  judgments  of  his  character  and  conduct  were,  of  course,  as  diverse  as 
their  feelings  for  or  against  him.  Reinville  was  born  at  Kaposia,  near  St.  Paul, 
about  1779,  and  died  in  March,  1846:  see  sketch  of  his  life  by  Rev.  E.  D. 
Neill  in  Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  Coll.,  I.,  2d  ed.  1872,  pp.  196-206. 

*'  This  Frazer  I  do  not  doubt  was  a  relative  of  the  Robert  Frazer,  Frazier, 
Fraser,  etc.,  who  accompanied  Lewis  and  Clark.  The  latter  was  a  "  Green 
Mountain  boy,"  and  it  is  highly  improbable  that  two  unrelated  Frazers  came 
from  Vermont  to  the  Western  frontiers  in  the  beginning  of  this  century. 
But  I  can  only  conjecture  what  their  degree  of  kinship  was.  One 
Joseph  Jack  Frazer  cut  a  figure  in  early  Minnesota  history,  if  we  may  judge 
from  the  sketches  of  his  life  and  adventures  which  ran  through  the  columns  of 
the  St.  Paul  Pioneer,  about  1866  or  1867,  from  the  pen  of  General  Henry  Hast- 
ings Sibley.  In  this  connection  I  may  be  permitted  to  note  the  fact,  not  gen- 
erally known,  that  Robert  Frazer  was  one  of  several  annalists  of  that  famous 
expedition,  who  went  so  far  as  to  issue  a  MS.  prospectus  of  a  book  he  was  going 
to  publish  about  it,  with  Captain  Lewis'  own  sanction.  But  this  project  failed 
for  lack  of  subscribers  to  what  any  publisher  would  now  be  glad  to  accept, 
could  the  MSS.  be  found.  See  Prof.  James  D.  Butler's  review  of  my  L.  and 
C,  N.  Y.  Nation,  Oct.  26th  and  Nov.  2d,  1893. 


YELLOW  RIVER— PAINTED   ROCK  AND  CREEK. 


4' 


thing  in  his  power  that  I  stood  in  need  of,  dispatched  his 
bark  canoes,  and  remained  himself  to  go  on  with  me.  His 
design  was  to  winter  with  some  of  the  Sioux  bands.  We 
sailed  well,  came  i8  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  W.  bank.*' 
I  must  not  omit  here  to  bear  testimony  to  the  politeness 

**  I'ike's  was  luckier  than  Long's  boat-party  of  1833,  which  started  from  P. 
(lu  C.  as   Pike  did,  but  did  not  get   much  above  Yellow    r.     It  consisted  of 
Thomas  Say,  the  subsequently  distinguished  naturalist ;  Prof.  ^V.  H .  Keating  ; 
Mr.  Samuel  Seymour,  the  artist ;  the  rascally  interpreter  Roque  or  Rocque  ;  and 
Lieutenant  Martin  Scott,  the  latter  in  command  of  a  corporal  and  his  squad  of 
e\^]n  soldiers.     These  men  tapped  a  keg  of  liquor,  and  got  too  drunk  to  navi- 
gate—the crew  did,  I  mean,  for  it  is  well  known  that  ofHcers  never  drink.    Yel- 
low r.  is  present  name  of  the  stream  consistently  so  called  since  it  censed  to  be 
R.  Jaune  of  the  French  regime  ;  it  has  been  already  mentioned  as  falling  in  on 
the  W.,  3  m.  above  Bloody  Run  and  N.  McGregor.     Three  miles  higher,  on 
the  same  side,  is  Paint  cr.,  or  Painted  Rock  cr,,  near  a  place  full  of  historic  inter- 
est ;  for  at  one  point  along  the  almost  unbroken  bluffs  is  the  steep  escarpment 
which  became  known  to  the  F.  as  Roche  Peinte,  or  Rochers  Peinis,  and  which 
continues  to  be  called  Painted  Rock  or  Rocks,  from  the  Indian  pictographs  with 
which  it  was  adorned  for  ages.     Beltrami  gives  it  as  Pointed  Rock,  II.  p.  196. 
High  places  of  all  sorts,  whether   the  elevation  be  phallic  or  terrene,  have 
always  been  regarded  as  great  medicine  by  the  untutored,  from  the  days  of  the 
priests  of  Baal,  Moloch,  or  Jahveh,  to  those  of  the  similar  shamans  and  mar- 
vel-mongers of  Lo.     Such    theological    jugglery  is  reflected   in  the  present 
name  of  Waucon  or  Waukon  Junction,  near  the  mouth  of  Paint  cr.,  where  the 
Chic,  Dub.  and  Minn.  R.  R.,  meandering  the  river,  sends  the  Waukon  branch 
to  Waukon,  seat  of  Allamakee  Co.,  la.     A  town,  or  something  that  tried  to  be 
one,  by  the  prosaic  name  of  Johnsonsport,  is  to  be  found  on  some  maps  at  the 
mouth  of  Paint  cr.     About  4  m.  above  Waukon  Junction  is  a  place  called 
Harper's  Ferry,  suggestive  of  Virginian  emigration.     The  bluffs  hug  the  lowan 
bank  closely  to  Paint  cr.     The  opposite    side  is  low  for  some   miles  back, 
with  sloughs  or  bayous  known  as  Marais,  Courtois,  Sioux,  etc.,  into  which  drain 
several  creeks,  among  them  one  called  Fisher's — no  doubt  for  the  gentleman 
who  entertained  Pike— and  another  named  Pickadee  ;  both  these  are  received  in 
Sioux  bayou.     But  above  Paint  cr.  the  channel  runs,  or  recently  did  run,  on 
the  Wisconsin  side,  having  an  intricate  snicarty  on  the  other,  whose  various 
courses  are  known   as  Seaman's  slough.  Big  Suck-off,  Gordon's  bay,  Martell's 
lake,  Center,   Harper,  St.  Paul,  Crooked,  Ferry,  etc.,  sloughs.     Wherever  the 
channel  was  in  Pike's  time,  he  says  that  he  camped  on  the  W.  side,  and  I  sup- 
pose at  a  point  about  opposite  present  town  of  Lynxville,  Crawford  Co.,  Wis., 
which  is  reckoned  17  m.  above  P.  du  C.  by  comparatively  recent  hydrographers. 
To  reach  this  place  he  passed  Trout  cr.,  which  falls  in  on  the  right  hand  nearly 
opp.  Painted  Rock,  and  the  site  of  Viola,  at  the  mouth  of  Buck  cr.,  also  on  the 
right. 


u 


•w 


42  CAPES   GARLIC   AND   WINNEBAGO. 

of  all  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  village.  There  is, 
however,  a  material  distinction  to  be  made  in  the  nature  of 
those  attentions:  The  kindness  of  Messrs.  Fisher,  Frazer, 
and  Woods,  all  Americans,  seemed  to  be  the  spontaneous 
effusions  of  good  will,  and  partiality  to  their  countrymen ; 
it  er.tended  to  the  accommodation,  convenience,  exercises, 
and  pastimes  of  my  men  ;  and  whenever  they  proved  supe- 
rior to  the  French,  openly  showed  their  pleasure.  But  the 
French  Canadians  appeared  attentive  rather  from  their  nat- 
ural good  manners  i  han  sincere  friendship ;  however,  it  pro- 
duced from  them  the  same  effect  that  natural  good  will  did 
in  the  others. 

Sept.  gth.  Embarked  early.  Dined  at  Cape  Garlic,  or  at 
Garlic  river ;  after  which  we  came  on  to  an  island  on  the  E. 
side,  about  five  miles  below  the  river  [Upper]  Iowa,  and  en- 
camped.    Rained  before  sunset.     Distance  28  miles." 

"Say  Island  No.  142,  or  head  of  No.  143,  for  a  present  location  which  ex- 
actly fits,  being  on  E.  side,  4  or  5  m.  below  mouth  of  Upper  Iowa  r.,  and 
opp.  De  Soto,  Wis. ,  on  the  border  of  Crawford  and  Vernon  cos.  The  camp 
itself  is  of  little  consequence,  in  comparison  with  the  notable  points  passed 
to  reach  it,  at  Pike's  Cape  Garlic  and  in  that  vicinity.  At  the  head  of  Harper 
and  Crooked  sloughs  the  channel  runs  under  the  lowan  bluffs  to  Lansing,  Alla- 
makee Co.,  Ta. ,  12^  m.  from  Lynxville.  On  the  Wisconsin  sid',  for  the  same 
distance  is  a  remarkably  labyrinthic  snicarty,  whose  principal  run  is  called  \\'in. 
neshiek  slough,  upon  which  is  Ferryville,  Crawford  Co. ,  Wis.  t  or  near  the 
mouth  of  Sugar  cr.  The  series  of  creeks  which  fall  into  these  sloughs  is  as 
follows,  in  pscending  order :  Kettle,  above  Polander  hollow  ;  Copper,  above 
Cumming's  hollow  ;  Buck  (duplicating  a  name  :  see  last  note) ;  the  Sugar  cr. 
just  said  ;  and  Rush,  above  Ferryville.  The  river  sweeps  under  the  bold  lowan 
headlands,  two  prominent  points  of  which  became  known  as  Cape  Garlic  and 
Cape  Winnebago — one  from  the  alliaceous  plant  growing  there,  and  the  other 
from  the  incident  about  to  be  cited  ;  while  two  of  the  four  streams  which  fall 
in  through  four  breaks  on  these  bluffs  were  correspondingly  called  Garlic  r.  or 
Cape  Garlic  cr.,  and  Winnebago  r.  or  Cape  Winnebago  cr.  Authors  difler  as 
to  which  is  which  ;  I  make  the  following  determinations  :  I.  At  the  point  where 
the  main  channel  of  the  Mississippi  divides  into  Crooked  and  Harper  sloughs, 
8  m.  below  Lansing,  and  near  where  Heytman  had  his  landing,  a  large  Jireek 
falls  in.  This  is  properly  Garlic  r. — the  one  on  which  the  town  of  Capjli  is 
situated.  Capoli  means  Cape  Ciarlic,  being  a  perversion  of  the  F.  Cap  i  L'Ail— 
a  phrase  that  has  been  peculiarly  un'  cky  at  the  hands  of  compositors  and 
engravers  ;  even  on  Nicollet's  map  it  stands  by  accident  Cap  a'  Lail,  though  the 


CArOLI,  ATCHAFALAGA,   AND   HOSMER  BLUFFS.         43 

Sept.  10th.  Rain  still  continuing,  we  remained  at  our 
camp.  Having  shot  at  some  pigeons,  the  report  was  heard 
at  the  Sioux  lodges,  the  same  to  whom  I  spoke  on  the  6th 
at  the  Prairie  [du  Chien] ;  when  La  Fieulle  [Feuille  "]  sent 

eminent  geographer  himself  was  un  Franjais  de  France,  whose  mother-tongue 
was  academic.  Beltrami,  II.  p.  197,  expands  the  phrase  to  Cape  d  I'Ail  Sauvage. 
2.  Three  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Capoli  cr.  a  rivule*  falls  in  between  two  emi- 
nences ;  the  lower  one  of  these  is  present  Capoli  bluff,  formerly  Cap  Puant  or 
Cape  Winnebago ;  the  upper  one  is  row  called  Atchafalaga  bluff,  formerly  Cap 
a  I'Ail  or  Cape  Garlic  ;  the  rivulet  just  said  is  Pike's  Garlic  r.  3.  At  4^ 
m.  higher,  through  a  recess  in  the  hig  lands  falls  in  the  stream  now  called  Vil- 
l-xge  cr.,  which  Nicollet  maps  as  C-^p-:  Winnebago  cr.  This  is  the  one  on 
which  the  town  of  Village  Creek  is  situated,  3  m.  up.  Its  mouth  is  exactly  a 
mile  below  the  mouth  of  Coon  or  Clear  cr.,  on  which  Lansing  is  situated, 
under  Mt.  Hosmer — this  "mountain"  being  that  part  of  the  bluffs  which  is 
isolated  between  the  two  creeks  just  said  to  fall  in  a  mile  apart.  With  thus 
much  by  way  of  geographical  determinations,  I  must  leave  to  someone  more 
familiar  than  I  am  with  the  local  traditions  or  actual  history  of  the  place,  to 
identify  the  exact  scene  of  the  following  incident,  given  in  Keating's  Long's  Exp. 
of  1823,  pub.  1824, 1,  p.  266  :  "  Two  remarkab'e  capes  or  points  were  observed  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  below  Iowa  liver  ;  the  lower  one  is  designated 
by  the  name  of  Cape  Puant,  because  at  a  time  when  the  Sioux  and  Winnebagoes 
{Puants)  were  about  to  commence  hostilities,  a  party  of  the  latter  set  out  on  an 
expedition  to  invade  the  territory  of  the  Sioux  and  take  them  by  surprise  ;  but 
these  being  informed  of  the  design,  collected  a  superior  force  and  lay  in  -"".mbush 
near  tl  is  place,  expecting  the  arrival  of  their  enemies.  As  soon  at  the  Winne- 
bagoes had  landed,  the  Sioux  sallied  from  their  hiding-places,  pressed  upon  them 
as  they  lay  collected  in  a  small  recess  between  the  two  capes,  drove  them  into 
the  river,  and  massacred  the  whole  party.  Garlic  cape,  just  above  [italics  mine] 
thij,  strikes  tiie  voyager  by  the  singularity  of  its  appearance.  In  shape  it  repre- 
sents a  cone  cut  by  a  vertical  plane  passing  through  its  ipex  and  base  ;  its  height 
is  about  four  hundred  feet."  I  suppose  the  "small  recess  "  of  this  recital  to  be 
that  between  present  Capoli  (lower)  and  present  Atchafalaga  (upper)  bluffs, 
respectively  former  Cape  Winnebago  (lower)  and  former  Cape  Garlic  (upper) 
bluffs. 

'"  La  Feuille  is  a  name  which  Pike  rarely,  and  only  by  accident,  spells  cor- 
rectly. But  in  writings  of  the  period  it  was  extremely  variable,  being  found 
even  as  I.efei,  Lefoi,  Lefoy,  La  Fye,  etc.  This  French  term  commonly  appears 
in  English  as  The  Leaf,  sometimes  Falling  Leaf,  and  is  conjecturally  a  transla- 
tion of  the  native  name  of  the  hereditary  chiefs  of  the  Kioxa  (Kiyuksa)  band  of 
Sioux.  This  has  usually  been  rendered  Wabasha  or  Wapasha,  and  explained  as 
derived  from  wapa,  leaf,  and  sha,  red.  In  one  place  Long  has  Wauppausha\\ . 
In  Riggs  and  Pond's  Dakota  dictionary  the  name  is  given  as  Wajiahasha,  and 
etymologized  as  from  wapaha,  a  standard,  and  sha,  red.     In  Minn.  Hist,  i  oil.. 


44  LA  FEUILLE'S  SIOUX,   ON   UPPKR  IOWA   RIVER. 

down  six  of  his  young  men  to  inform  me  "  that  he  had 
waited  three  days  with  meat,  etc..  but  that  last  night  they 
had  began  to  drink,  and  that  on  the  next  day  he  would 
receive  me  with  his  people  sober."  I  returned  him  for 
answer  "  that  the  season  was  advanced,  time  was  press- 
ing, and  if  the  rain  ceased  I  must  go  on."  Mr.  Frazor 
and  the  interpreter  went  home  with  the  Indians.  We 
embarked  about  one  o'clock."     Frazer,  returning,  informed 


I.  2r!  ed.  1872,  p.  370,  J.  Fletcher  Williams  surmises  the  origination  of  the 
name  in  the  chieftainship  of  the  Warpekutes,  otherwise  Leaf  Shooters — though 
why  the  tribe  was  so  calk  ■  ^nd  whether  the  English  term  is  a  proper  version  of 
the  aboriginal  name,  seem  never  to  have  been  satisfactorily  shown.  Such  forms 
of  the  chief's  name  as  Wabashaw  and  Wapashaw,  etc.,  are  common,  besides 
v'hich  there  are  some  odd  and  rare  ones;  tf.  ^.,  Beltrami,  II.  p.  180,  has: 
"The  Great  Wabiscihouwa,  who  is  regarded  as  the  Ulysses  of  tlie  whole  na- 
tion." Three  chiefs  named 'Vabasha  are  known  to  us  in  history.  Wabasha  1. 
was  famous  during  the  Revolutionary  war.  Wabasha  II.  was  his  son,  and  ti  e 
latter  is  the  one  of  whom  Pike,  Long,  Beltrami,  and  many  others  speak.  Hv 
was  already  a  great  chief  in  Pike's  time,  who  grew  in  credit  and  renown  with 
years.  He  was  seen  in  1820  by  General  Henry  Whiting,  who  describes  him  as 
a  small 'o. an  with  a  patch  over  one  eye,  who  nevertheless  impressed  everyone 
with  respect,  and  whose  profile  was  said  to  resemble  that  of  the  illustrious 
Conde.  "  While  with  us  at  Prairie  du  Chien,"  says  Whiting,  "  he  never  nidviii, 
or  was  seen,  without  his  pipe-bearer.  His  people  treated  him  with  reverence. 
Unlike  all  other  speakers  in  council,  he  spoke  sitting,  considering,  it  was  said, 
that  he  was  called  upon  to  stand  only  in  the  presence  of  his  great  father  at  Wasii- 
ington,  or  his  representatives  at  St.  Louis."  He  was  not  a  warrior,  bcliiviiiL; 
that  Indians  could  prosper  only  at  peace  with  one  another  and  with  the  whiles, 
and  declared  that  he  had  never  been  at  war  with  the  latter,  though  many  of  his 
young  men,  against  his  advice,  had  been  led  astray  in  the  war  of  1812,  W'l- 
son,  Wabasha  III.,  resided  at  the  village  below  Lake  Pepin  until  1853,  anl  in 
1872  was  livi  ig  on  the  Niobrara  Reservation. 

••' To  go  u;)  to  the  mouth  of  Upper  Iowa  r.,  for  the  conference  with  li'afs 
band  of  Sioux,  who  received  the  Expedition  with  almost  touching  warmth,  as 
Pike  goes  on  to  narrate.  His  map  letters  "  Upper  Iowa  River,"  and  marks 
"  Sioux  Vill.''  on  the  S.  side  near  the  mouth.  Pike's  text  of  1807,  p.  7.  has 
Jowa  :  Beltrami  has  Yahowa  in  text,  Yawowa  on  map  :  for  other  forms  see 
note  '"  p.  22.  The  river  is  a  large  one  which,  with  its  tributaries,  drains  a  N. 
E.  portion  of  Iowa  and  some  adjoining  Minnesota  land.  The  riv^r  discharges 
by  a  set  of  sloughs  in  such  intricate  fashion  that  it  is  not  easy  to  locate  its  [irin- 
cipal  mouth  with  entire  precision,  to  say  nothing  of  whvie  it  was  at  Pike's  \W]i ; 
recent  hydrographic  surveys,  jn  the  scale  of  a  mile  to  t!ie  inch,  show  the  largest 
opening  at  a  point  exactly  ^Ji  ni.  S.  of  the  inter-State  line  between  Iowa  and 


BATTLE  OF  THE  BAD  AXE  NOTED. 


45 


me  that  the  chief  acquiesced  in  my  reasons  for  pressing 
forward,  but  that  he  had  prepared  a  pipe  (by  way  of  letter) 
to  present  me,  to  show  to  all  the  Sioux  above,  with  a 
message  to  inform  them  that  I  was  a  chief  of  their  new 
fathers,  and  that  he  wished  me  to  be  treated  with  friend- 
ship and  respect. 

0;i  our  arrival  opposite  the  lodges,  the  men  were  paraded 
on  the  bank,  with  their  guns  in  their  hands.  They  saluted 
us  with  jail  with  what  might  be  ter:),ed  three  rounds; 
which  I  returned  with  three  rounds  from  each  boat  with  my 
bli'nderbusses.     This  =alute,  although  nothing   to  soldiers 

Miniii-sota,  which  runs  to  the  Mississippi  on  the  parallel  of  43'  30'  N.,  through 
the  village  of  New  Albin,  on  Winneliago  cr. ,  and  cuts  through  Lost  slough. 
A-;suming  this  position,  which  is  probably  right  within  a  fraction  of  a  mile,  Pike 
ii  precisely  opposite  ''-  |.'rne  where  was  fought  the  decisive  battle  of  Bad  Axe, 
notable  in  history  ;  ii-ii-'uig  the  second  Black  Hawk  war.  Black  Hawk  was 
the  most  celebrateu  J  "luring  the  Sac  and  Fox  war,  b.  about  1768,  at  the  Sac 
vill.  near  the  mouth  of  Rock  r.  'n  Illinois,  d.  on  the  l)es  Moines,  in  Iowa,  Oct. 
3(1,  1838.  In  the  campaign  of  1832  the  Indians  were  defeated  on  the  Wiscon- 
sin r.  July  2ist,  by  Colonel  Henry  Dodge,  and  again  Aug.  2d  by  General  Henry 
Atkinson.  Zach.  'Taylor  had  become  colonel  of  the  1st  Infantry  Apr.  4th,  1 832, 
anil  had  his  hdqrs.  at  Fort  Crawford,  P.  du  Chien.  He  moved  his  forces  under 
General  Atkinson,  and  caught  the  Indians  opposite  the  mouth  of  Upper  Iowa  r., 
as  thev  were  preparing  to  cross  the  Mississippi  ;  the  battle  of  Bad  Axe  was  fought, 
the  hostiles  were  defeated,  and  their  organization  was  broken  up.  Colonel 
Taylor  returned  to  P.  du  Chien  with  the  troops  he  commanded,  and  soon  after- 
ward received  the  formal  surrender  of  the  Sac  chieftain,  whose  sagacity  was  as 
great  as  his  courage.  Black  Hawk  was  sent  by  Taylor,  with  about  60  of  his 
people,  as  a  prisoner  of  war  to  General  Winf.  Scott,  and  with  some  of  them 
was  confined  for  a  while  in  Fortress  Monroe  ;  released  June  5th,  1833.  T^c 
first  stream  of  any  size,  on  the  Wisconsin  side,  above  the  scene  of  action  was 
named  and  is  still  called  Bad  Axe.  A  place  above  Battle  cr.  and  Battle  isl.,  very 
near  the  battle-field,  if  not  actually  on  the  spot,  was  started  by  the  name  of 
Victory,  which  it  stiP  bears.  This  is  directly  on  the  river-bank,  at  the  mouth  of 
a  rivulet  which  makes  in  there,  about  a  mile  below  the  spot  where  one  Tippet 
had  his  land, ig.  Tippet's  place  was  nearly  opposite  the  Iowa-Minnesota  State 
line,  and  ij^  m.  S.  of  the  lower  mouth  of  Bad  Axe  r.  As  the  price  of  their 
defeat  the  S.  and  F.  Inds.  were  obliged  to  surrender  a  large  tract  of  land, 
about  q,ooo  sq.  m.,  along  180  m.  of  the  W.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  and, 
perhaps,  50  ni.  broad  ;  this  became  known  as  the  Scott  or  the  Black  Hawk 
purchase,  and  later  as  the  Iowa  district  ;  it  was  attached  to  the  Territory  .)f 
Michit;an  for  judicial  purposes  in  1834,  and  the  separate  Territory  of  Iowa  was 
made  Jnly  4th,  1838. 


46 


COUNCIL  WITH  THE  SIOUX. 


accustomed  to  fire,  would  not  be  so  agreeable  to  many 
people ;  as  the  Indians  had  all  been  drinking,  and  as  some 
of  them  even  tried  their  dexterity,  to  see  how  near  the  boat 
they  could  strike.  They  may,  indeed,  be  said  to  have  struck 
on  every  side  of  us.  When  larded,  I  had  "my  pistols  in  my 
belt  and  sword  in  hand.  I  wi.3  met  on  the  bank  by  the 
chief,  and  invited  to  his  lodge.  As  soon  as  my  guards  were 
formed  and  sentinels  posted,  I  accompanied  him.  Some  of 
my  men  who  were  going  up  with  me  I  caused  to  leave 
their  arms  behind,  as  a  mark  of  confidence.  At  the  chief's 
lodge  I  found  a  clean  mat  and  pillow  for  me  to  sit  on,  and 
the  before-mentioned  pipe  on  a  pair  of  small  crutches  before 
me.  The  chief  sat  on  my  right  hand,  my  interpreter  and 
Mr.  Frazer  on  my  left.  After  smoking,  the  chief  spoke  to 
the  following  purport : 

"That,  notwithstanding  he  had  seen  me  at  the  Prairie 
[du  Chien],  he  was  happy  to  take  me  by  the  hand  among 
his  own  people,  and  there  show  his  young  men  the  respect 
due  to  their  new  father  [President  Jefferson].     That,  when 
at  St.  Louis  in  the  spring,  nis  father  [General  Wilkinson] 
had  told  him  that  if  he  looked  down  the  river  he  would  see 
one  of  his  young  warriors  [Pike]  coming  up.     He  now  found 
it  true,  and  he  was  happy  to  see  me,  who  knew  the  Great 
Spirit  was  the  father  of  all,  both  the  white  and  the  red 
people ;   and  if  one  died,  the  other  could  not  live  long. 
That  he  had  never  been  at  war  with  their  new  father,  and 
hoped  always  to  preserve  the  same  understanding  that  now 
existed.    That  he  now  presented  me  with  a  pipe,  to  show  to 
the  upper  bands  as  a  token  of  our  good  understanding,  and 
that   they  might   see   his  work   and    imitate   his  conduct. 
That  he  had  gone  to  St.  Louis  on  a  shameful  visit,  to  carrv 
a  murderer ;  but  that  we  had  given  the  man  his  life,  and 
he  thanked  us  for  it.     That  he  had  provided  somethin<(  to 
eat,  but  he  supposed  1  could  not  eat  it ;  and  if  not,  to  give 
it  to  my  young  men." 

I  replied :  "  That,  although  I  had  told  him  at  the  Prairie 
my  business  up  the  Mississippi,  I  would  again  relate  it  to 


ii 


MEDICINE   DANCE   OF  THE  SIOUX. 


47 


him."  I  then  mentioned  the  different  objects  I  had  in  view 
with  regard  to  the  savages  who  had  fallen  under  our  protec- 
tion by  our  late  purchase  from  the  Spaniards;  the  different 
posts  to  be  established  ;  the  objects  of  these  posts  as  related 
to  them ;  supplying  them  with  necessaries ;  having  officers 
and  agents  of  government  near  them  to  attend  to  their  busi- 
ness; and  above  all  to  endeavor  to  make  peace  between 
the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs.  "That  it  was  possible  on  uiy 
return  I  should  bring  some  of  the  Sauteurs  down  with  me, 
and  take  with  me  some  of  the  Sioux  chiefs  to  St.  Louis, 
there  to  settle  the  long  and  bloody  war  which  had  existed 
between  the  two  nations.  That  I  accepted  his  pipe  with 
pleasure,  as  the  gift  of  a  great  man,  the  chief  of  four  bands, 
and  a  brother;  that  it  should  be  used  as  he  desired."  I 
then  eat  of  the  dinner  he  had  provided,  which  was  very 
grateful.  It  was  wild  rye  [rice?]  and  venison,  of  which  I 
sent  four  bowls  to  my  men. 

I  afterward  went  to  a  dance,  the  performance  of  which 
was  attended  with  many  curious  maneuvers.  Men  and 
women  danced  indiscriminately.  They  were  all  dressed  in 
the  gayest  manner ;  each  had  in  the  hand  a  small  skin  of 
some  description,  and  would  frequently  run  up,  point  their 
skin,  and  give  a  puff  with  their  breath ;  when  the  person 
blown  at,  whether  man  or  woman,  would  fall,  and  appear 
to  be  almost  lifeless,  or  in  great  agony ;  but  would  recover 
slowly,  rise,  and  join  in  the  dance.  This  they  called  their  great 
medicine ;  or,  as  I  understood  the  word,  dance  of  religion, 
the  Indians  believing  that  they  actually  puffed  something 
into  each  others'  bodies  which  occasioned  the  falling,  etc. 
It  is  not  every  person  who  is  admitted  ;  persons  wishing  to 
join  them  must  first  make  valuable  presents  to  the  society 
to  the  amount  of  $40  or  $50,  give  a  feast,  and  then  be 
admitted  with  great  ceremony.  Mr.  Frazer  informed  me 
that  he  was  once  in  the  lodge  with  some  young  men  who  did 
not  belong  to  the  club ;  when  one  of  the  dancers  came  in 
they  immediately  threw  their  blankets  over  him,  and  forced 
him  out  of  the  lodge  ;  he  laughed,  but  the  young  Indians 


48 


FROM   UPPER  IOWA  TO   BAD   AXE   RIVER. 


called  him  a  fool,  and  said  "he  did  not  know  what  the 
dancer  might  blow  into  his  body." 

I  returned  to  my  boat ;  sent  for  the  chief  and  presented 
him  w  ith  two  carrots  of  tobacco,  four  knives,  half  a  pound 
of  vermilion,  and  one  quart  of  salt.  Mr.  Frazer  asked 
liberty  to  present  them  some  rum  ;  we  made  them  up  a  keg 
between  us,  of  eight  gallons — two  gallons  of  whisky  [the 
rest  water].  Mr.  Frazer  informed  the  chief  that  he  dare  not 
give  them  any  without  my  permission.  The  chief  thanked 
me  for  all  my  presents,  and  said  "they  must  come  free,  as 
he  did  not  ask  for  them."  I  replied  that  "to  those  who 
did  not  ask  for  anything,  I  gave  freely ;  but  to  those  who 
asked  for  much,  I  gave  only  a  little  or  none." 

We  embarked  about  half-past  three  o'clock;  came  three 
miles,  and  encamped  on  the  W.  side.'"  Mr.  Frazer  we  left 
behind,  but  he  came  up  with  his  tw  o  peroques  about  dusk. 
It  commenced  raining  very  hard.  In  the  night  a  peroque 
arrived  from  the  lodges  at  his  camp.  During  our  staj-  at 
their  camp,  there  were  soldiers  appointed  to  keep  the  crowd 
from  my  boats,  who  executed  their  duty  with  vigilance  and 
rigor,  driving  men,  women,  and  children  back,  whenever 
they  came  near  my  boats.  At  my  departure,  their  soldiers 
said,  "As  I  had  shaken  hands  with  their  chief,  they  must 
shake  hands  with  my  soldiers."  In  which  request  I  willingly 
indulged  them. 

Sept.  nth.  Embarked  at  seven  o'clock,  although  rain- 
ing.    Mr.  Frazer's  canoes  also  came  on  until  nine  o'clock. 

''  By  the  river  channel  barely  over  the  Iowa  State  line  into  Houston  Co., 
Minn.,  obliquely  opposite  Tippet's  landing,  and  about  a  mile  l5elow  the  moutli 
of  Bad  Axe  r.,  which  falls  in  on  the  Wisconsin  side.  Pike  continues  to  have 
Wisconsin  on  his  right  until  he  crosses  the  mouth  of  St.  Croix  r. 

I  suspect  that  the  Upper  Iowa  r. ,  wliich  PiUe  has  iust  left,  lias  a  longer  his- 
torical .ecord  tlian  tliat  with  which  it  is  generally  credited.  Franquelin,  l68S, 
maps  a  large  river  above  the  Wisconsin  and  below  Root  r.,  thus  appartnily 
in  t!ie  position  ol  the  Upper  Iowa.  He  letters  Indians  on  it  as  Peoueriu  anil 
Tapoueri.  Perrot's  Ayoiis  r.  seems  to  be  tlie  same,  as  is  certainly  the  loiui  r.  of 
Lewis  and  Clark's  map,  1814.  Long  lias  Little  loway  r.  in  1817.  and  I  jjper 
larway  r.  in  1823. 


BROWNSVILLE — RACINE   OR   ROOT  RIVER. 


49 


Stopped  for  breakfast  and  made  a  fire.  Mr.  Frazer  stayed 
with  me  ;  finding  his  peroques  not  quite  able  to  keep  up,  he 
dispatched  them.  We  embarked;  came  on  until  near  six 
o'cluck,  and  encamped  on  the  W.  side.  Saw  nothing  of  his 
peroques  after  they  left  us.  Supposed  to  have  come  i6 
miles  this  day."  Rain  and  cold  winds,  all  day  ahead.  The 
river  has  never  been  clear  of  islands  since  I  left  Prairie  Des 
Chein.  I  absolutely  believe  it  to  be  here  two  miles  wide. 
Hills,  or  rather  prairie  knobs,  on  both  sides. 

Sept.  I2th.  It  raining  very  hard  in  the  morning,  we  did 
not  embark  until  ten  o'clock,  Mr.  Frazer's  peroques  then 
coming  up.  It  was  still  raining,  and  was  very  cold  ;  passed 
the  Racine"  river ;  also  a  prairie  called  Le  Cross  [La  Crosse], 

"This  is  not  very  definite — perhaps  Pike  forgot  to  wind  i;p  his  watch  after 
the  Sioux  affair.     But  we  shall  be  about  right  to  set  him  down  at  Brownsville, 
Houston  Co.,  Minn.;  this  is  below  Root  r.,  which   he   passes  to-morrow,  and 
within  convenient  reach  of  the  place,  3  m.  beyond  La  Crosse,  to  which  he  comes 
on  that  rainy  day.     Starling  from  the  State  line,  as  already  said,  he  first  rounds 
Bad  Axe   bend,  at  the  mouth  of  Bad  Axe  r.,  and  then  comes  to  the  town  of 
("leiioa,  8^  m.  above  Victoria.     Genoa  used  to  be  called  Had  Axe  ;  but  they  do 
not  seem  to  have  fancied  the  name,  or  perhaps  the  Victorians  crowed  over  them, 
and  told  them  stories  about  George  Washington  and  his  little  hatchet,  so  it  was 
chaiii,'ed.     Bad  Axe  r.  is  also  found  with  the  I'",  name  Manvaise  Hache  :  e.  g., 
Beltrami,  II.  p.  178.     A  mile  above  Genoa  the  river  divdes  in  two  courses, 
inclosing  an  irregulariy  oval  cluster  of  islands  b*^  rn.  lon^  ;  that  on  the  Minne- 
sota side  is  liaft  channel,  which  runs  part  of  the  way  under  bluffs  ;  the  one  on 
the  Wisconsin  side,  wiiich  is  or  was  lately  the  steamboat  way,  i;.  Coon,  Raccoon, 
or  Racoon  slough,  with  a  creek  of  these  names  coming  in  about   its  middle, 
3  and  2  m.  above  Britt's  and  Warner's  Idgs.,  respectively.     The  hills  are  some 
miles  back  on  this  side,  with  a  break  where  Coon  cr.  comes  in,  and  so  con- 
tinue all  the  way  to  Prairie  La  Crosse.     Brownsville  is  at  the  mouth  of  Wild 
Cat  T..  ij4  m.  above  the  place  where  the  two  courses  of  the  river  reunite,  or 
rather  begin  to  separate  ;  and  this  town  is  21   m.  by  the  river-channel  above 
\ictoria — for  Coon  slough  is  very  crooked.     Britt's  Idg.  became  the  site  of  a 
place  called  Bergen  ;  and  one  by  the  name  of  Stoddard  is  on  the  slough  a  little 
above  I  oon  cr.,  about  opp.  Brownsv.lle.      The  Wisconsin  county  line  between 
Vernon  and  La  Crosse  comes  to  the  river  between  Stoddard  and  Mormon  creeks, 
"k.  a«x  Kacines  of  the  French  ;  Racine  or  Root  r.,  the  latter  name   now 
most  lined,  though  in    he  case  of  a  well-known  Wisconsin  city  the  F.  word  per- 
■isis  .is  the  name.     Nicoliet  calls  it  Hokah  or  Root  r.,  and  so  does  Owen.     The 
Fran(|uelt«  map  o^  r688  marks  a  certain  R.  des  Arounoues,  which  some  authort 
identify  wBtk  Ldkuntan's  semi-mythical  R.  Morte  or  Longue,  and  refer  both  to 


^!P 


mm 


50 


PRAIRIE   LA  CROSSE. 


I 

'I 
II 

lif 


from  a  game  of  ball  played  frequently  on  it  by  the  Sioux 
Indians.  This  prairie  is  very  handsome ;  it  has  a  small 
square  hill,  similar  to  some  mentioned  by  Carver.  It  is 
bounded  in  the  rear  by  hills  similar  to  [those  of]  the  Prairie 
Des  Chein. 

On  this  prairie  Mr.  Frazer  showed  me  some  holes  dug 
by  the  Sioux,  when  in  expectation  of  an  attack,  into  which 
they  first  put  their  women  and  children,  and  then  crawl 
themselves.  They  were  generally  round  and  about  10  feet 
in  diameter ;  but  some  were  half-moons  and  quite  a  breast- 
work. This  I  understood  was  the  chief  work,  which  was 
the  principal  redoubt.  Their  modes  of  constructing  them 
are  :  the  moment  they  apprehend  or  discover  an  enemy 
on  the  prairie,  they  commence  digging  with  their  knives, 
tomahawks,  and  a  wooden  ladle  ;  and  in  an  incredibly  short 
space  of  time  they  have  a  hole  sufficiently  deep  to  cover 
themselves  and  their  families  from  the  balls  or  arrows  of  tlie 
enemy.  They  [enemies]  have  no  idea  of  taking  those  sub- 
terraneous redoubts  by  storm,  as  they  would  probably  lose 
a  great  number  of  men  in  the  attack ;  and  although  they 

Root  r.;  but  this  is  questionable.  Long  speaks  (I.  p.  247)  of  Root  r.  as  having 
its  Dakotaii  name  Hoka,  and  being  supposed  to  be  the  same  as  the  Riviere 
Long  or  Riviere  Morte  of  Lahontan,  I.  p.  112,  called  by  Coxe  in  1741,  p.  ig 
and  p.  63,  Mitschaoywa  and  Meschaouay.  He  utterly  discredits  the  Baron's 
"180  leagues"  of  this  river,  as  well  as  his  fabulous  nations  "Eoknros," 
"  Essanapes,"  and  "  Gnacsitares."  Without  prejudice  to  the  perennial  question, 
which  it  would  be  a  pity  to  settle  now,  whether  the  Baron  was  a  knave  or  a  fool, 
or  most  likely  both,  it  may  be  observed  that  Major  Long  is  mistaken  in  suppos- 
ing his  Hoka  or  Root  r.  to  be  the  one  which  Lahontan  represents  himself  to 
have  gone  up  ;  for  if  he  went  up  any  real  river,  that  is  Cannon  r.,  as  Nicollet 
urges,  and  would  clinch  his  argument  by  calling  it  Lahontan  r. :  see  beyond, 
Hokah,  Racine,  or  Root  r. — to  use  all  three  of  the  sure  names — is  a  large 
stream  which  runs  E.  through  several  of  the  lower  tier  of  Minnesota  counties, 
and  falls  in  through  Houston  Co.,  3)^  m.  directly  S.  of  La  Crosse,  though  the 
distance  is  more  than  this  by  the  winding  river-channel.  Mormon  cr.  conies 
into  the  slough  on  the  Wisconsin  side  opposite  Root  r.,  immediately  Ijtlow 
La  Crosse  prairie.  The  slough  on  the  Minnesota  side  above  Root  r.  is  called 
Broken  Arrow — and  this,  by  the  way,  is  connected  with  a  certain  small  Taiget 
lake ;  so  that  no  doubt  some  actual  incident  gave  rise  to  both  these  names. 
This  lake  is  the  outlet  of  Pine  cr. 


LA  CROSSE   RIVER. 


$« 


du" 


as  having 
e  Riviere 

41.  P-  i^ 
le  liarou's 
okoros," 
question, 
or  a  fool, 
n  sujipos- 
imsclf  to 
Nicollet 
beyond, 
s  a  large 
counties, 
iiougli  the 
cr.  comes 
ly  lielow 
i>  called 
In  Ta;get 
le  names. 


might  be  successful  in  the  event,  it  would  be  considered 
a  very  imprudent  action. 

Mr.  Frazer,  finding  his  canoes  not  able  to  keep  up,  stayed 
at  this  prairie  to  organize  one  of  them,  intending  then  to 
overtake  us.     Came  on  three  miles  further." 

"  Three  of  Pike's  river-miles  beyond  La  Crosse  bring  him  to  La  Crescent, 
Houston  Co.,  Minn.,  close  to  the  border  of  Winona  Co. — not  that  he  says  he 
camped  on  the  W.  side,  but  he  would  naturally  select  that  side  in  preference 
to  the  other,  where  the  various  outlets  of  La  Crosse  and  Black  rivers  make  such 
a  snicarty.     La  Crescent  is  curiously  so  called,  apparently  in  rivalry  with  La 
Crosse,  and  perhaps  by  some  individual  who  thought  he  knew  what  La  Crosse 
means,  and  was  minded  to  suggest  by  the  Turkish  emblem  that  the  star  of  the 
new  place  was  in  the  ascendant  and  the  town  bound  to  grow.     Thus  far,  how- 
ever, it  has  been  more  of  an  excrescence  from  La  Crosse  than  a  crescence  of 
itself.     Crosse,  in  French,  does  not  mean  "cross,"  but  the  game  of  hockey, 
shinny,  or  bandy,  and  the  crooked  stick  or  racket  with  which  it  is  jilayed.     Tike 
describes  the  game  beyond,  under  date  of  Apr.  20th,  1806.     The  V.  word  for 
"crescent"  is  croissant.     The  .jeautiful  Prairie  h.  la  Crosse  w-as  so  called  by  the 
French  because  the  Indians  used  to  play  ball  there  when  they  felt  safe  ;  and 
when  the  enemy  appeared  they  could  scoop  holes  in  it  and  scuttle  into  them  in 
a  few  minutes.     The  river  which  laves  this  ball-ground  on  the  N.  became  I-.a 
Riviere  de  la  Prairie  i  la  Crosse,  which  we  naturally  shorten  into  La  Crosse 
r.     Tike  says  la  Cross  and  le  Cross,  usually.     I  have   seen  it  spelled  Crose, 
Lewis  and  Clark's  map  of  1814  letters  "  Prairie  La  Crosse  R."     Long  has  in  one 
place  Prairie  de  la  Cross,     Featherstonhaugh  turns  the  phrase  into  Ball  Game  r. 
It  was  probably  by  accident  that  Long  once  gave  it  as  La  Croix  r. ;  for  he  is 
careful  in  his  statements,  and  his  editor,  Keating,  is  scholarly.     This  slip  is  par- 
ticularly unlucky,  as  it  is  liable  to  cause  confusion  with  St.  Croix,  name  of  the 
large  river  higher  up  on  the  same  side.     The  city  of  La  Crosse  was  started  on 
the  edge  of  the  plain,  immediately  over  the  river,  and  gave  name  to  the  county 
of  which  it  became  the  seat.     Two  of  the  islands  which  the  city  faces  are  Grand 
and  La  Plume,  respectively  \%  and  ^  m.  long.     Close  above  La  Crosse  r. — in 
fact,  connected  with  one  of  its  mouths  at  the  place  wlicre  the  town  of  North  La 
Crosse  was  planted — is  Black  r.     This  has  a  long  history.     La  Salle  speaks  of 
it  as  R.  Noire  and  Chabadeba  [Beaver],  in  his  letter  of  Aug.  22d,  1OS2  ;  R. 
Noire  appears  on  Franquelin's  map,   1688  ;  Hennepin  has  it  under  the  Sioux 
name  Chabedeba  or  Chabaoudeba,  and  the  like,  translated  Beaver  r.  Franqu- 
lin  locates  a  certain  Butte  d'Hyvernement,  or  wintering-hill,  at  the  mouth  of 
R.  Noire  ;  Menard  and  Guerin  are  said  to  have  ascended  the  latter  in  16O1. 
The  most  remarkable  things  about  the  mouth  of  Black  r.  are  the  extraordinary 
length  of  its  delta  and  the  great  changes  which  this  has  experienced  within 
comparatively  few  years.     Tiie  waters  of  Black  r.,  though  it  is  not  a  very  large 
stream,  have  found  their  way  into  the  Mississippi  from  La  Crosse  upward  for 
12  m.  or  more.     There  are  now  a  number  of  openings,  though   the  principal 


11  , 


1  ' 


52 


BLACK   RIVER— TREMPEALEAU. 


Sept.  13th.  Embarked  at  six  o'clock.  Came  on  to  a 
sand-bar,  and  stopped  to  dry  my  things.  At  this  place  Mr. 
Frazer  overtook  me.  We  remained  here  three  hours ;  came 
on  to  the  foot  of  the  hills,  at  le  Montaigne  qui  Trompe  a 
I'Eau  \sic\  which  is  a  hill  situated  on  the  river.  Rain  all 
day,  except  about  two  hours  at  noon.  Passed  Black  river. 
Distance  21  miles." 

one  is  the  lowermost,  nearest  La  Crosse.     Nicollet,  writing  about  1840,  gives 
this  as  the  "new  mouth"  of  the  Sappah  or  Black  r.  (Sapah  Watpa  of  the 
Sioux),  and  calls  the  next  one  Broken  Gun  channel.     This  is  rendered  by 
F.  Casse-Fusils  in  Beltrami,  IL  p.  178,  who  recites  the  gun-breaking  incident. 
This  ciiannel  now  opens  opposite  the  mouth  of  Dakota  cr.,  which  falls  in  under 
Mineral  bluflf,  at  a  place  called  Dakota.     The  main  former  debouchment  seems 
to  have  been  at  a  point  about  12  m.  direct  above  La  Crosse,  through  what  is 
now  known  as  Hammond's  chute.     In  Pike's  time  the  mouth  was  evidently 
high  up,  for  he  does  not  pass  it  till  the  13th.     The  present  (or  recent)  channel 
is  turbid  and  sloughy  for  some  miles  up  from  its  contracted  opening  into  the 
Mississippi,  reminding  one  of  the  similar  but  more  pronounced  expansion  of 
St.  Croix  r.  above  its  mouth.     The  width  of  the  delta,  or  its  extent  sideways 
from  the  Mississippi,  averages  between  3  and  4  m.,  inclusive  of  a  higher  piece 
of  ground  it  incloses,  called  Lytle's  prairie  or  terrace  ;  this  is  4^  m.  long  and 
20-30  feet  above  high-water  mark  ;  Half  Way  cr.  comes  around  its  lower  end, 
The  vicissitudes  of  Black  r.  may  be  among  the  reasons  why  exact  identification  of 
some  places  about  its  mouth  in  the  early  French  writers  is  not  easy.     Speaking 
with  reserve,  and  ready  to  stand  corrected  by  anyone  who  knows  more  than  I  do 
about  it,  I  do  not  see  why  the  traditional  Butte  d'Hyvernement  may  not  have 
been  Mt.  Trempealeau.     As  for  the  extent  of  the  Black  River  basin,  this  is 
long  enough  to  begin  in  Taylor  Co. ,  where  waters  separate  in  various  directions, 
and  to  run  through  Clark  and  Jackson  cos. ;  thence  the  river  separates  La 
Crosse  from  Trempealeau  Co.  till  it   reaches  the  town  of  New  Amsterdam  ; 
after  which  the  river  enters  its  delta  in  La  Crosse  Co.,  and  the  county  line  runs 
5  or  6  m.  to  the  Mississippi  on  a  parallel  of  latitude. 

"  From  La  Crosse  to  the  town  of  Trempealeau  is  reckoned  19  ni.  by  the 
channel  ;  the  mountain  is  3  m.  further  by  the  same  way.  Pike  was  advanced 
beyond  La  Crosse  when  he  started  from  La  Crescent,  and  his  21  ni.  no  doubt 
set  him  snug  under  the  famous  hill  whose  F.  name  snagged  him  when  he 
reached  it.  This  is  not  the  mountain  which  "  deceives  "  (trompe)  in  the  water, 
as  by  mirage  or  reflection  of  itself  reversed  ;  but  one  which  rises  so  abrnjitly 
from  the  water's  edge  that  it  seems  to  bathe,  or  at  least  to  soak  its  feet,  in  the 
water,  and  was  therefore  called  by  the  French  la  Montague  qui  Trempe  a  I'Kau 
— a  clumsy  phrase  which  we  have  reduced  to  Mt.  Trempealeau,  Mt.  Tromlialo, 
and  various  other  terms  not  less  curious.  There  is  a  notable  assortment  of 
names  along  the  river.  On  decamping  and  crossing  the  bounds  of  Houston  Co. 
into  Winona  Co.,  Minn.,  Pike  comes  to  the  Rising  Sun — though  his  course  is 


TREMPEALEAU   TO   WINONA. 


S3 


Sept.  14th.  Embarked  early ;  the  fog  so  thick  we  could 
not  distinguish  objects  20  yards.  When  we  breakfasted  we 
saw  nothing  of  Mr.  Frazer's  canoes.  After  breakfast,  at 
the  head  of  an  island,  met  Frazer's  boats.  Wind  coming  on 
fair,  we  hoisted  sail,  and  found  that  we  were  more  on  an 
equality  with  our  sails  than  our  oars.  The  birch  canoes 
sailed  very  well,  but  we  were  able  to  outrow  them.  Met 
the  remainder  of  the  war-party  of  the  Sacs  and  Reynards 
before  noted,  returning  from  their  expedition  against  the 
Sauteurs.     I  directed  my  interpreter  to  ask  "  How  many 

about  N.,  and  we  are  not  informed  whether  this  name  advertises  a  certain  stove- 
polish,  or  is  meant  to  throw  in  the  shade  both  the  Turliish  crescent  and  the 
Christian  cross.  E.  of  Rising  Sun  is  Minnesota  isl.,  on  the  Wisconsin  side. 
A  few  miles  further  is  a  place  in  Minnesota  by  the  Teutonic  name  of  Dresbach, 
at  the  head  of  Uresbach's  isl.;  i|^  m.  further  is  a  town  with  the  Siouan  name 
Dakota  ;  while  E.  of  these  (across  the  Black  r.  delta  in  Wis.)  is  a  place  called 
Onalaska,  suggestive  of  Captain  Cook's  voyage  to  the  Aleutian  isls.  One 
Winter  used  to  have  his  Idg.  on  the  Wis.  side,  2%  m.  above  Dakota,  and  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  place  where  Black  r.  debouched  in  Pike's  time — Winter's 
Idf;.  being  a  singular  verbal  coincidence,  almost  like  a  pun  upon  the  old  name 
of  liibernation  (Butte  d'liyvernement),  which  appears  on  the  earjier  pages  of 
Mississippian  history.  At  3  m.  above  Winter's  Idg.  stands  Richmond,  which 
was  established  under  Queen's  bluff  on  the  Minn.  side.  Both  of  these  names 
suggest  English  Colonial  history  of  the  times  when  a  certain  country  was  named 
Virginia— certainly  not  to  quis  one  of  the  greatest  women  who  ever  graced 
a  crown,  but  to  emphasize  a  diplomatic  euphemism.  The  "highest  hill"  in 
this  vicinity  is  Queen's  bluff,  also  known  as  Spirit  rock — not  that  called  Kettle 
hill  by  Long  in  1817  ;  us  elevation  wa.s  determined  by  Nicollet  to  be  531  feet, 
but  W.1S  reduced  to  375  feet  by  later  measurements.  The  town  of  Trem- 
pe.ileau,  in  the  Wis.  co.  of  that  name,  is  midway  between  Richmond  and  the 
mountain  ;  but  before  Pike  reached  the  latter,  he  passed  on  his  left  the  site  of 
Ladoille,  Minn.,  built  under  the  bluff,  about  300  feet  high,  between  two  creeks 
whose  iiames  are  Trout  and  Cedar.  It  is  really  wonderful  how  much  history  is 
hidden — or  revealed — in  mere  names.  Personal  and  local  words  are  the  most 
concrete  facts  of  history.  If,  for  example,  those  which  appear  in  this  paragraph 
were  set  forth  at  full  length  in  proper  historical  perspective,  we  should  have  a 
perfect  panorama  of  scenes  and  ii.cidents  along  20  m.  of  the  river  for  200  yrs. 
The  myrionymous  molehill  on  the  river,  which  has  been  dignified  by  the  name  of 
a  mountain  because  there  are  no  mountains  to  speak  of  in  Wisconsin  or  Minne- 
sota, and  which  hat,  been  belittled  by  a  set  of  phrases  so  absurd  that  it  could  not 
be  further  ridiculed  if  one  were  to  call  it  Mt.  Trombonello,  or  Mt.  Trump  '  ow, 
or  Mt.  Tremble  Oh,  or  Mt.  Soak-your-feet-in-mustard-water-and-go-to-bed-oh, 
has  not  only  conferred  titles  on  a  town  and  a  county  in  Wisconsin,  but  also  on 


I  ■'  i 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


to 


^O 

/x        '^,% 
''     ^''S.% 


<    % 


A 


^. 


'^ 


1.0    :f:KS  I 


I.I 


I  vs. 


2.2 


2.0 


IL25  III  1.4    11.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


i\ 


<J 


,v 


•s^ 


<^ 


i». 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  873-4503 


0 


I/.. 


^ 


54 


OLD  FRENCH  FORT  NOTED — WINONA. 


scalps  they  had  taken  ? "  They  replied,  "  None."  He 
added,  "  They  were  all  squaws  ";  for  which  I  reprimanded 
him.  Passed  the  mountain  which  stands  in  the  river ;  or,  as 
the  French  term  it,  which  soaks  in  the  river.  Came  to  the 
Prairie  Le  Aisle  [sic"],  on  the  west. 

Mr.  Frazer,  Bradley,  Sparks,  and  myself,  went  out  to 
hunt.  We  crossed  first  a  dry  flat  prairie;  when  we  arrivd 
at  the  hills  we  ascended  them,  from  which  we  had  a  most 


the  river  which  washes  its  foot,  and  which  is  known  by  one  of  the  most  unique 
circumlocutory  phrases  to  be  found  in  geographical  terminology  :  La  Riviere  de 
la  Montagne  qui  Trempe  k  I'Eau,  of  the  French  ;  River  of  the  Mountain,  etc., 
Pike ;  Mont.  q.  t.  i  YE.  r.,  Owen ;  Mountain  Island  r.,  Nicollet ;  Bluff 
Island  r.,  Long — and  so  on  through  all  the  chimes  that  can  be  rung  out  of 
paraphrase.  It  is  now  usually  called  Trempealeau  r.,  and  forms  the  boundary 
between  this  and  Buffalo  cos.  The  Sioux  name  of  the  mountain  is  rendered 
Minnay  Chonkahah,  or  Bluff  in  the  Water,  by  Featherstonhaugh.  A  more 
frequent  form  of  this  is  Minneshonka.  The  Winnebago  name  is  given  as  Hay- 
me-ah-chan  or  Soaking  mountain  in  Hist.  Winona  Co.,  1883.  The  island  on 
which  the  mountain  rests  has  a  corresponding  series  of  names. 

I'i'ie  passed  to-day  the  place  where  was  once  situated  an  old  French  fort, 
which  has  lately  been  unearthed  alongside  the  Chic,  Burl,  and  N.  R.  R.  The 
site  is  on  the  S.  half  of  the  S.  E.  quarter  of  Section  20,  Township  18  N., 
Range  9W.,  ijl^m.  above  the  village,  and  i^  m.  below  the  mountain,  of 
Trempealeau.  It  was  discovered  by  T.  H.  Lewis,  July,  1885,  and  by  him 
examined  in  Nov.,  1888,  and  again  in  Apr.,  1889 :  see  his  article,  Mag.  Amer. 
Hist.,  Sept.,  1889,  and  separate,  8vo.  p.  5,  with  three  cuts,  and  postscript  dated 
Feb.  sad,  1890.  See  also  T.  H.  Kirk,  Mag.  Amer.  Hist.,  Dec,  1889,  article 
entitled,  "  Fort  Perrot,  Wisconsin,  established  in  1685,  by  Nicholas  Perrot,"  with 
reference  to  the  evasive  Butte  d'Hyvemement,  or  wintering-hill  of  the  Franque- 
lin  map,  1688.  The  separate  of  Mr.  Lewis'  article  is  entitled,  "Old  French 
Post  at  Trempeleau,  Wisconsin."  "  Fort  Perrot,"  as  a  name  of  this  establish- 
ment, must  not  be  confounded  with  the  one  often  so  called  on  Lake  Pepin. 

*^  A  meaningless  phrase  as  it  stands,  and  one  open  to  various  rendering,  as 
L'Aile,  L'Ail,  or  L'fle.  Pike's  text  of  1807.  p.  12,  has  L'aile  ;  Long's  of  1807, 
as  printed  in  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  II.  Part  i,  2d  ed.  1890,  p.  175,  has  Aux  Aisle  ; 
Beltrami's,  II.  p.  180,  gives  aux  Ailes.  "The  site  of  Winona  was  known  to 
the  French  as  La  Prairie  Aux  Ailes  (pronounced  O'Zell)  or  the  Wing's  prairie, 
presumably  because  of  its  having  been  occupied  by  members  of  Red  Wing's 
band,"  Hist.  Winona  Co.,  1883.  It  is  easily  recognized  by  Pike's  vivid  descrip- 
tion :  see  next  note.  Long,  /.  c,  calls  it  "  an  extensive  lawn,"  and  notes  the 
situation  on  it  in  1817  of  an  Indian  village,  whose  chief  he  calls  Wauppaushaw 
by  a  rather  unusual  spelling  of  the  native  name  of  La  Feuille.  Forsyth,  1619, 
names  it  Wing  prairie. 


WINONA  TO  FOUNTAIN  CITY. 

sublime  and  beautiful  prospect.  On  the  right,  we  saw  the 
mountains  which  we  passed  in  the  morning  and  the  prairie 
in  their  rear;  like  distant  clouds,  the  mountains  at  the 
Prairie  Le  Cross ;  on  our  left  and  under  our  feet,  the  valley 
between  the  two  barren  hills  through  which  the  Mississippi 
wound  itself  by  numerous  channels,  forming  many  beautiful 
islands,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  embrace  the  scene ;  and  our 
four  boats  under  full  sail,  their  flags  streaming  before  the 
wind.  It  was  altogether  a  prospect  so  variegated  and 
romantic  that  a  man  may  scarcely  expect  to  enjoy  such 
a  one  but  twice  or  thrice  in  the  course  of  his  life.  I  pro- 
posed  keeping  the  hills  until  they  led  to  the  river,  encamp- 
ing and  waiting  the  next  day  for  our  boats;  but  Mr. 
Frazer's  anxiety  to  get  to  the  boats  induced  me  to  yield. 
After  crossing  a  very  thick  bottom,  fording  and  swimming 
three  branches  of  the  river,  and  crossing  several  morasses, 
we  at  twelve  o'clock  arrived  opposite  our  boats,  which  were 
encamped  on  the  east  side.  We  were  brought  over.  Saw 
great  sign  of  elk,  but  had  not  the  good  fortune  to  come 
across  any  of  them.  My  men  saw  three  on  the  shore. 
Distance  21  miles." 

"  From  his  camp  in  the  vicinity  of  Trempealeau  and  Lamoille  towns,  a  little 
below  the  Mountain  which,  etc..  Pike  makes  it  3i  m.  to-day  and  25  m.  to- 
morrow to  a  point  opp,  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  r.  He  is  therefore  to-day  a  little 
short  of  halfway  between  Trempealeau  and  Alma.  From  Trempealeau  to 
Fountain  City  is  3o  m.  by  the  channel ;  from  Fountain  City  to  Alma  is  22  m. 
Pike  camps  to-day  at  Fountain  City,  Buffalo  Co.,  Wis.,  immediately  below 
the  mouth  of  Eagle  cr.  The  island  at  the  head  of  which  he  breakfasted, 
and  where  Frazer's  boats  came  up,  was  No.  75,  which  separates  the  Homer 
chute,  also  called  Blacksmith  slough,  from  the  rest  of  the  Mississippi.  Though 
narrow,  this  is,  or  lately  was,  the  steamboat  channel.  Opposite  is  town  of 
Homer,  Winona  Co.,  Minn,,  under  Cabin  bluff  (most  probably  Kettle  hill  of 
long).  At  iji  m.  above  Homer,  on  the  same  side,  is  the  town  of  Minneopa. 
Here  the  bluffs  recede  from  the  river ;  here  Pike  left  his  boats  for  an  excursion 
on  the  hills.  The  "  Prairie  Le  Aisle,"  which  he  first  crossed,  is  in  Burris  valley. 
The  highest  point  of  the  hills  which  he  ascended  for  his  prospect  is  called  the 
Sugarloaf.  Standing  there  to-day,  we  overlook  Winona,  seat  of  the  county,  and 
at  the  foot  of  the  hills  between  us  and  the  town  is  Lake  Winona,  neariy  2  m. 
long,  discharging  into  Burris  Valley  cr.  Looking  E.  from  the  Sugar-loaf, 
down-river,  we  perceive  that  the  Mountain  which,  etc.,  is  simply  a  point  of  the 


'■,Wfv>'')'Ty. 


56 


RIVERS  PASSED  TO  ALMA. 


Sunday,  Sept.  15th.  Embarked  early.  Passed  the  riviere 
Embarrass  [Zumbro  river],  and  Lean  Clare  [1.  e.,  I'Eau 
Claire ;  Clear,  White  Water,  or  Minneiska  river],  on  the  W., 
which  is  navigable  135  miles.  Encamped  opposite  the  river 
Le  Bceuf  [Beef  or  Buffalo  river],  on  the  W.  shore."    At  the 

bluffs  which  stands  isolated  in  the  delta  of  Trempealeau  r.  To  our  left  of  it  as 
we  look,  and  beyond  it  eastward,  stretches  the  high  prairie  between  the  delta 
just  said  and  that  of  Black  r.  Rambling  further  along  the  hills  back  of  Winona 
we  come  to  Minnesota  City,  at  a  break  in  the  bluifs  through  which  a  rivulet 
finds  its  way  into  Crooked  slough.  From  this  spot  Fountain  City  is  in  full 
view,  3|^  air-miles  off  on  a  course  N.  by  E.,  under  Eagle  bluff,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river.  A  portion  of  these  bluffs  is  probably  that  called  Tumbling 
Rock  by  Forsyth  in  1819.  We  could  keep  along  the  hills  till  they  strike  the 
river  about  5  m.  further.  But  Mr.  Frazer  is  anxious  to  get  back  to  the  boats  ; 
very  likely  Bradley  and  Sparks  are  also.  So  we  descend  .'  ito  the  bottom  from 
Minnesota  City,  flounder  across  some  sloughs,  and  on  reaching  the  W.  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  we  signal  to  our  men  to  come  over  in  a  canoe  and  ferry  us  to 
Fountain  City. 

**  Fountain  City  to  Alma,  32  m.  Camp  opp.  Alma,  in  Wabasha  Co.,  Minn., 
amid  the  intricacies  of  the  Zumbro  delta.  For  many  miles  above  and  below 
this  place — from  Chippewa  r.  down  to  Winona,  say  40  m. — the  Father  of 
Waters,  like  the  father  of  Shem,  Ham,  and  Japhet,  if  we  can  credit  the  chroni- 
cles of  that  ancient  mariner,  gets  himself  in  very  bad  form.  He  reels  along  as 
if  he  would  like  to  take  both  sides  of  the  bluffs  at  once.  Great  skill  has  been 
shown  by  engineers  in  trying  to  steer  him  in  the  way  he  should  go  ;  much  money 
has  been  spent  in  throwing  out  jetties  like  friends  at  each  elbow  of  the  stagger- 
ing patriarch,  to  mend  his  ways  ;  some  of  his  worst  lurches  have  been  dammed 
as  a  matter  of  necessity,  and  all  of  them  have  been  otherwise  objurgated  as 
a  matter  of  course  by  every  steamboat  contain.  The  late  General  G.  K. 
Warren,  who  was  intrusted  with  the  respunsible  duty  of  surveying  the  river 
with  reference  to  the  improvement  of  navigation,  makes  a  most  accurate 
observation  in  his  preliminary  Rep.,  Ex.  Doc.  No.  57,  sd  Sess.  39th  Congr., 
p.  19 :  "It  is  often  remarked,  '  What  a  slight  thing  will  cause  a  change  of  the 
river.'  But  it  is  erroneous  to  infer  from  this  that  it  is  easy  to  make  it  change 
as  we  wish.  Effects  are  often  accumulating  unobserved  during  a  state  of 
unstable  equilibrium.  A  slight  cause  then  disturbs  this,  and  marked  changes 
take  place.  But  it  is  exceedingly  superficial  to  attribute  the  whole  effect  to  this 
last  cause."  In  consequence  of  the  great  changes  in  the  river,  both  natural 
and  artificial,  since  the  days  of  Pike,  we  must  not  assume  the  present  or  quite 
recent  details  to  be  those  of  Pike's  time  ;  nor  should  we  presume  to  speak  cen- 
soriously regarding  the  identification  of  such  things  as  Carver's  supposed  fortifica- 
tions of  1766-67.  Within  the  bounds  of  the  solid,  if  not  eternal  hills,  through 
which  the  water  has  excavated  its  trough,  we  have  the  great  river  safe  enough. 
But  these  bounds  are  some  miles  apart,  and  between  them  all  is  in  the  "  unstable 


WHITE  WATER  AND  ZUMBRO  RIVERS. 


57 


;o.,  Minn., 
and  below 
Father  of 
the  chroni- 
sls  along  as 
1  has  been 
luch  money 
;he  stagger- 
in  dammed 
jurgated  as 
ieral  G.  K. 
|g  the  river 
it  accurate 
)th  Congr., 
inge  of  the 
it  change 
a  state  of 
[ed  changes 
Effect  to  this 
ioth  natural 
int  or  quite 
speak  cen- 
idfortifica- 
[Us,  through 
ie  enough. 
"  unstable 


head  of  this  river  the  Chipeways  inhabit,  and  it  is  navigable 
for  peroques  40  or  50  leagues.    Rained  in  the  afternoon. 

equilibrium  "  of  which  the  eminent  engineer  just  cited  speaks.    The  result  is 
incessant  shiftiness  or  shiftlessness,  not  only  as  regards  the  sloughy  bottoms  and 
snicarties  themselves,  but  in  respect  of  the  sands  which  accumulate  in  various 
places  and  form  banks  or  terraces  which  sometimes  take  such  shapes  as  to  be 
easily  mistaken    for    artificial    mounds.     The    cardinal    principle    of    sound 
archaeology  is  to  assume  every  mound  to  be  a  natural  formation  until  it  is 
proven  to  be  the  work  of  man.     One  of  the  most  notable  historical  instances  in 
point  is  that  of  the  "  fortifications"  at  Bon  Homme,  on  the  Missouri  r.,  which 
deceived  even  so  accurate  an  observer  as  Captain  Clark :   see  L.  and  C. ,  ed. 
1893,  p.  103,  seq.,  and  pi.     Some  of  the  present  or  quite  recent  water-ways  in 
the  vicinity  of  Fountain  City  are  those  known  as  Pap  chute,  Betsy,  Haddock, 
and  Rollingstone  sloughs.  Horseshoe  bend,  and  Fountain  City  bay,  into  which 
Eagle  cr.  falls,  under  Eagle  bluff.     The  hills  then  come  to  the  river  on  the 
Minnesota  side,  and  so  continue  past  Mt.  Vernon  to  Minneiska.     One  of  the 
boldest  Oi  these  headlands  is  called  Chimney  Kock.     Some  have  an  altitude  of 
450  feet.     On  the  other  side  the  bluffs  recede  above  Fountain  City,  break  to 
give  passage  to  Eagle  c,  start  again  about  2^  m.  from  the  river,  and  thence 
upward  approach  gradually  till  they  strike  the  river  at  Alma.      The  space 
between  these  hills  and  the  river  bottom  is  partly  filled  by  a  sand  terrace  for 
about  9  m. ,  with  an  average  width  of  a  mile.     On  the  edge  of  the  upper  one  of 
these  banks  is  Buffalo  City,  2  m.  above  which  a  place  was  started  by  the  <iame 
of  ISelvidere.     The  boundary  between   Winona  and  Wabasha  cos.  comes  on 
a  parallel  of  latitude  to  the  river  at  Minneiska,  a  town  named  for  the  river  at 
whose  mouth  it  is  situated,  under  high  bluffs,  facing  the  lower  part  of  Summer- 
field  or  Summerfield's  isl.,  which  is  4  m.  long.     This  river  is  Pike's  "  Lean 
Clare,"  clearly  by  typographical  error,  as  he  elsewhere  has  Riviere  I'Eau  Clair, 
almost  right,  and  correctly  translates  the  phrase  by  Clear  r.  and  Clear  Water  r. 
This  is  also  White  Water  r.  of  Long  and  others,  at  present  the  usual  alternative 
name  of  Minneiska  r. ;   Miniskon  r.,   Nicollet;    Miniskah  r.,  Owe  it ;    Min- 
ncska  r.,  Warren  ;  and  so  on  with  the  forms  of  the  Indian  word.     Clear  r. 
comes  into  the  bottom  between  the  Minneiska  bluffs  and  a  certain  isolated  hill 
to  the  northward,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  Clear  r.  is  still  or  was  lately  con- 
nected with  one  of  the  lowest  sluices  of  the  Zumbro  r.     This  last  is  what  Pike 
calls  riviere  Embarrass  (river  Embaras,  ed.  1807,  p.  13).     The  French  named 
it  Riviere  aux  Embarras,  from    the  difficulty  they   found  in   attempting  to 
navigate  it,  and  we  have  made  Zumbro  out  of  this  embarrassment.     Nicollet 
calls  it  Wazi  Oju  r.,  in  which  he  is  followed  by  Owen  and  others.     Its  delta 
extends  practically  from  Minneiska  to  Wabasha,  a  distance  of  20  m.  by  the 
Mississippi  channel.     The  opening  which  Pike  takes  as  the  ihouth  is  the  lower 
one,  as  he  passes  it  before  camping  opp.  Alma.     This  delta  incloses  one  long, 
narrow  sand  terrace,  continuous  for  9  m.,  and  several  similar  but  smaller  banks, 
as  well  as  an  extensive  system  of  sloughs  and  islands.    The  West  Newton  chute 
and  accompanying  islands  are  among  these ;  and  Pike's  camp  was  at  the  head 


>     kj? 


58 


BUFFALO  OR  BEEF  RIVER. 


Mr.  Frazer  broke  one  of  his  canoes.    Came  about   three 
miles  further  than  him.    Distance  25  miles. 

of  this  chute,  directly  opposite  Alma  and  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  r.     The  history 
of  this  river  dates  back  to  1680  at  least :   R.  des  Boeufs,  Hennepin,  map,  1683; 
River  of  Wild  Bulls,  Hennep.,  Engl,  transl.;    Boeufs  R,,  Lahontan,  map; 
BufFaloe  or  Buffalo  r.,  Pike,  Long,  Nicollet,  Owen,  etc.;  Beef  r.,  Warren  and 
others  ;    e/.  also,  R.  de  Bon  Secours  of  the  early  F.  writers,  whence  Gocxi 
Plelp  r.  by  translation.     Some  connect  the  two  names,  as  R.  des  Bceufs  ou  dc 
Bon  Secours,  as  if  the  supply  of  beef  had  been  a  great  relief.     There  were 
plenty  of  bulTaloes  on  this  part  of  the  Mississippi  in  the  seventeenth  and 
eighteenth  centuries,  and  indeed  down  to  some  early  years  of  our  own.    But 
they  were  exterminated  or  driven  off  soon  after  Fort  St.  Anthony  (Snelling)  was 
built  in  1819.     Fort  St.  Antoine  appears  in  earliest  connection  with  the  river. 
Its  own  mouth  has  no  doubt  been  fixed  since  prehistoric  times  by  the  solid 
Alma  bluffs  around  which  it  sweeps  iato  the  Mississippi.     But  the  delta  of 
Chippewa  r.,   whose   main   discharge   is   by  a  contracted  opening  qyi  direct 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  r.,  extends  between  these  two  points,  and  is 
meandered  by  the  intricacies  of  Beef  slough,  which  such  competent  professional 
opinion  as  Warren's  pronounces  to  have  once  divided  the  main  Chippewa: 
Ex.  Doc.  No.  57,  etc.,  p.  13.     "  The  Chippeway  river  had  a  large  lateral  gorge 
like  that  of  the  St.  Croix  to  till  up  before  reaching  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  it  now  joins  the  Mississippi  by  a  very  complete  set  of  delta  stp  ams,  begin- 
ning about  15  miles  above  its  mouth.     There  was  a  time  when  the  mouth  now 
known  as  Beef  slough  was  about  equal  to  the  main  Chippeway.     In  thei; 
growth  'sach  kept  along  the  bluffs  or  sides  of  the  gorge  they  were  filling  up, 
raising  their  immediate  banks  and  leaving  a  depression  between  them.     The 
bank  which  the  present  Mississippi  finally  put  across  the  delta  was  not  then 
there,  and  large  trees  grew  up  on  this  intermediate  space.     The  delta  having 
finally  reached  the  Mississippi,  the  water  was  more  rapidly  raised  in  Lake 
Pepin.     This  intermediftte  space  was  closed  up  on  its  third  side  by  the  new 
forming  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  and  became  a  lake.     The  trees  in  it  then 
perished,  and  their  submerged  parts,  preserved  by  the  water,  remain  standing 
in  the  lake  at  this  time  [July  31st,  1865].     This  place  is  known  as  Stump  lake, 
and  this  name  it  bore  omong  the  aboriginal  Sioux  (Chan-poksa-m'de).    The 
lower  of  these  two  delta  mouths  became  obstructed  and  dammed  up  by  the  new 
forming  banks  of  the  Mississippi ;  the  lower  part  of  it  then  filled  up,  and  it 
finally  broke  through  its  own  banks  into  Stump  lake,  so  that  it  now  issues 
therefrom  in  several  much  obstructed   channels,  almost  entirely  useless  to 
navigation.   .    .   The  Trempealeau  and  Black  rivers  repeat  the  operation  of  the 
Chippeway  on  a  smaller  scale,  the  Wisconsin  probably  on  a  greater,  other 
streams  doing  the  same  in  proportion  to  their  size."     In  this  view  of  Beef  slough 
as  an  obstnf  ted  channel  of  the  Chippewa,   Beef  or  Buffalo  r.  is  simply  an 
affluent  of  the  Chippewa,  precisely  as  the  Minneiska  is  of  the  Zumbro,  or  La 
Crosse  of  Black  r. ;  and  other  such  cases  of  originally  distinct  rivers  falling  into 
the  Mississippi  as  one  by  their  deltopoetic  processes  could  easily  be  cited. 


CARVER'S  GRAND  ENCAMPMENT. 


S9 


Sept.  i6th.  Embarked  late,  as  I  wished  Mr.  Frazer  to 
overtake  me,  but  came  on  very  well.  His  canoes  overtook 
us  at  dinner,  at  the  grand  encampment  [7^  miles**]  below 

*<* "  Grand  Encampment "  is  a  phrase  in  use  since  Carver's  Travels  first 
appeared.  Carver  first  came  to  Lake  Pepin  Nov.  1st,  1766.  Those  who  wish 
to  verify  the  fact  will  find  it  on  p.  34  of  the  Phila.  ed.  of  1796,  which  is  com- 
moner and  therefore  more  accessible  than  any  of  the  earlier  ones  ;  the  London 
princeps,  1778,  is  a  rare  book  ;  the  place  is  p.  54  of  this  ed.  On  p.  35,  Carver 
says  the  place  was  "  some  miles  below  Lake  Pepin."  This  left  the  location  in  the 
air,  especially  as  he  does  not  say  which  side  of  the  ri .  er  ;  and  various  authors 
have  raised  such  a  fog  about  it  that  we  might  be  excused  if  we  failed  to  find  it 
anywhere.  By  Pike  as  above,  the  place  is  between  Buffalo  r,  and  Chip- 
pewa r. ;  he  starts  late,  noons  on  the  spot,  and  gets  into  Lake  Pepin  at 
dusk.  On  his  return  voyage,  Apr.  15th,  1806,  he  stops  at  the  place ;  he 
makes  it  on  the  right  (west)  bank,  9  m.  below  Lake  Pepin.  When  Long  comes 
by,  in  1823,  his  boat-party  camps  opposite  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  r.,  just  as 
Pike  did  yesterday  ;  on  the  30th  of  June  they  find  themselves  "  a  few  miles" 
below  L.  Pepin,  and  much  concerned  to  discover  Carver's  "  fortifications  ":  see 
Keating,  L  pp.  276-78.  The  upshot  of  their  long  discussion  is  the  conclu- 
sion that  Carver  did  really  see  what  he  says  he  saw,  but  that  the  works  he  de- 
scribed were  not  at  the  Grand  Encampment,  where  they  found  no  fortifications. 
Hut  this  is  clearly  a  non  sequitur,  or  a  lucus  a  non,  or  a  petitio  principii,  or  an 
argumentum  ad  hominem,  or  whatever  may  be  the  logical  definition  of  an 
illogical  syllogism.  It  misses  the  point.  The  question  is  not  one  of  identi- 
fying Carver's  locality  ;  the  question  is  whether  what  he  saw  there  was  an  arti- 
ficial work  or  a  natural  formation.  The  place  can  be  pointed  out  with  the 
point  of  a  pin  stuck  through  the  map,  provided  the  topography  has  not  changed 
too  much  for  that  during  the  century  ;  for  the  point  which  now  points  to 
Carver's  location  is  Point  Teepeeota  of  the  U.  S.  survey  chart.  The  point 
above,  at  which  Major  Long's  boat-party  landed  an  hour  or  two  later  that  day, 
and  "which  appeared  to  correspond  with  the  description  "  of  Car\'er's  place, 
though  "  their  search  here  was  likewise  unsuccessful "  (p.  278),  is  the  present 
site  of  Wabasha — the  place  where  Nicholas  Perrot  is  thought  to  have  landed 
in  1683,  and  built  a  log  fort,  the  first  thing  of  the  kind  in  all  that  country, 
afterward  marked  on  some  maps  as  Fort  Perrot.  Teepeeota  pt.  is  the 
projecting  end  of  the  long  narrow  sand-drift  or  sand  terrace  already  men- 
tioned as  extending  9  m.  or  more  in  the  delta  of  the  Zumbro ;  it  strikes  the 
Mississippi  immediately  below  the  Middle  mouth  of  the  Zumbro,  and  in 
fact  determines  the  position  of  that  opening.  Teepeeota  pt.  is  4^  m.  direct 
above  Alma,  somewhat  more  than  5  m.  by  the  channel ;  it  is  3  m.  direct  below 
Wabasah,  a  little  more  by  the  channel ;  it  is  6  m.  below  the  upper  mouth  of 
Chippewa  r.,  say  7  by  the  channel.  The  Indian  name  would  be  more  correctly 
rendered  Tipiotah — tipi  meaning  a  lodge  or  dwelling  (such  as  is  called  "  wig- 
wam "  in  novels,  but  seldom  so  on  the  spot)  and  the  rest  of  the  word  denoting 
multitude  ;  the  paper-town  there,  called  "Tepeeotah  City,  went  up  in  smoke,  1859. 


'lit,- 


6o 


CHIPPEWA  RIVER— LAKE   PEPIN. 


Lake  Pepin.  We  made  the  sandy  peninsula  on  the  east  at 
the  entrance  of  Lake  Pepin,  by  dusk  ;  passed  the  Sauteaux 
[Chippewa"]  river  on  the  east,  at  the  entrance  of  the  lake. 

The  island  off  Teepeeota  pt.,  but  a  little  lower  down,  is  now  called  Grand 
Encampment  isl.  Of  the  accuracy  of  this  identification  I  do  not  see  how  there 
can  be  any  question,  though  time  has  modified  the  contour  details  in  the  course 
of  nature,  as  well  as  in  the  course  of  the  engineering  work  done  there  of  late 
years.  These  fortifications  of  the  river  against  its  own  sands  are  doubtless  the 
only  ones  of  any  magnitude  that  have  ever  been  made  on  the  spot,  before  or 
since  Carver ;  though  there  was  nothing  to  hinder  the  Sioux  from  scooping 
holes  in  the  sand-drift  and  scuttling  into  them  when  the  Chippewas  came  in 
sight,  as  we  know  they  did  at  Prairie  La  Crosse  and  elsewhere.  Under  these 
circumstances,  I  think  the  gentlemen  ^f  Major  Long's  party  were  as  unjust  to 
themselves  in  doubting  their  own  identifications  (in  which  they  were  supported 
by  Hart,  Rolette,  and  others  who  knew  about  the  place),  as  they  were  to  Carver 
in  saying,  p.  277  :  "No  gentleman  of  the  party  would  be  willing  to  ascribe  to 
Carver  a  scrupulous  adherence  to  truth,  (personal  observation  having  convinced 
them  all  of  the  many  misrepresentations  contained  in  his  work)."  If  this  is 
meant  to  charge  Carver  with  willful  misrepresentation,  I  think  it  is  unjust  as 
well  as  ungenerous.  Carver  mistook  a  natural  for  an  artificial  work — so  did 
William  Clark,  to  the  extent  of  drawing  one  to  a  scale  and  describing  it  in  tiie 
terms  of  military  science — so  have  done  many  professional  archxologists.  Car- 
ver made  mistakes,  like  the  rest  of  us  ;  he  was  often  loose  about  distances,  dimen- 
sions, and  such  things  ;  he  believed  more  things  that  were  told  him  than  a  less 
honest  and  more  wary  wayfarer  would  have  taken  to  be  true  ;  but  I  think  that 
he  drew  a  short  bow  for  so  long  a  journey,  had  no  occasion  to  deceive  anyone 
but  himself,  and  always  intended  to  tell  the  truth  as  it  seemed  to  him — in  short, 
I  do  not  see  how  his  good  faith  can  be  seriously  questioned.  I  accept  Carver's 
statements,  as  I  do  those  of  Pike,  Long,  and  other  honest  persons,  for  what 
they  may  prove  to  be  worth. 

•'  R.  des  Sauteurs,  etc.,  of  the  French,  1,  e..  River  of  the  Chippewas,  with 
all  the  uncounted  variations  of  the  latter  word,  from  such  forms  as  Ouchipou- 
waictz  to  the  present  Chippewa,  Chippeway,  or  Chipeway.  Pike's  1807  text 
has  Sautiaux  r.,  p.  13.  Beltrami  has  Cypewais  in  text,  Cypoway  on  map. 
Present  usage  among  geographers  favors  two /'x  and  no  y  ;  the  ethnologists 
incline  rather  to  Ojibwa.  This  one  of  the  major  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi 
now  falls  in  by  its  main  upper  mouth  i|^  m.  below  the  end  of  Lake  Pepin,  from 
the  N. ,  nearly  at  a  right  angle  ;  it  is  somewhat  bottle-nosed — that  is,  with  a  con- 
tracted orifice  of  a  turgid  body  of  water,  though  the  dilation  is  not  so  great  as 
in  the  case  of  the  St.  Croix.  The  general  character  of  the  delta  has  been 
already  discussed  in  connection  with  Beef  slough.  Pike  has  this  on  his  right 
all  the  way  from  Alma  to  I^.  Pepin.  On  his  left  he  passes  Grand  Encampment 
isl.  and  dines  near  Point  Teepeeota,  already  described  as  the  point  of  that  sand- 
bank I  should  sWsh  to  call  Carver's  Terrace.  He  next  comes  to  Wabasha,  seat 
of  the  Minnesota  county  of  that  name,  so  called  from  the  celebrated  Sioux 


NAVIGATION  OF  LAKE  PEPIN. 


6l 


After  supper,  the  wind  being  fair,  we  put  off  with  the  inten< 
tion  to  sail  across ;  my  interpreter,  Rosseau,  telling  me 
that  he  had  passed  the  lake  twenty  times,  but  never  once  in 
the  day ;  giving  as  a  reason  that  the  wind  frequently  rose 
and  detained  them  by  day  in  the  lake.  But  I  believe  the 
traders'  true  reason  generally  is  their  fears  of  the  Sauteurs, 
as  these  have  made  several  strokes  of  war  at  the  mouth  of 
this  river,  never  distinguishing  between  the  Sioux  and  their 
traders.  However,  the  wind  serving,  I  was  induced  to  go 
on ;  and  accordingly  we  sailed,  my  boat  bringing  up  the 
rear,  for  I  had  put  the  sail  of  my  big  boat  on  my  batteau, 
and  a  mast  of  22  feet.  Mr.  Frazer  embarked  on  my  boat. 
At  first  the  breeze  was  very  gentle,  and  we  sailed  with  our 
violins  and  other  music  playing ;  but  the  sky  afterward 
became  cloudy  and  quite  a  gale  arose.  My  boat  plowed 
the  swells,  sometimes  almost  bow  under.  When  we  came 
to  the  Traverse  [crossing-place],  which  is  opposite  Point  De 
Sable  [Sandy  point],  we  thought  it  most  advisable,  the  lake 
being  very  much  disturbed  and  the  gale  increasing,  to  take 


^1 


r  ■  H 


chief  of  whom  we  read  much  in  Long,  I.  p.  272,  and  elsewhere  ;  his  name  is 
there  spelled  Wapasha,  and  his  village  was  at  that  time  not  on  this  spot,  but 
lower  down  (Winona).  The  site  of  Wabasha  duplicates  the  situation  at  Point 
Tcepeeota  ;  it  is  in  the  Zumbro  delta,  below  the  Upper  Zumbro  outlet,  on  the 
point  of  a  sand-bank  identical  in  formation  with  Carver's  Terrace,  though  much 
smaller — under  3  m.  in  length,  and  less  than  a  mile  wide.  Passing  Wabasha, 
Pike  comes  2  m.  to  the  town  now  called  Read's  Landing,  at  the  uppermost 
point  of  the  Zumbro  floodplain,  almost  opposite  the  mouth  of  Chippewa  r. 
Nicollet  marks  "  Roques,"  «.  #.,  Augustin  Rocque's  trading-house,  in  about  the 
right  position,  1.  e.  at  present  site  of  Wabasha,  where  Rocque's  old  chimney  was 
e\-idence  in  1884.  This  person,  whose  last  name  might  be  spelled  with  a  ^  as 
well  as  his  first,  very  likely  lived  on  more  than  one  spot  in  the  course  of  his 
career.  Featherstonhaugh  informs  us  that  "  Ruque's "  Indian  name  was 
Wajhustachay,  and  that  his  house  stood  on  the  edge  of  a  high  prairie,  50  feet 
from  the  water,  at  S.  E.  end  of  L.  Pepin,  right  bank,  opp.  Chip.  r. ;  which  fits 
in  only  with  the  site  of  present  Read's  Landing.  Here  the  C,  M.  and  St.  P.  R. 
R.  bridged  the  Miss.  r.  iu  '82  (Act  of  Congr.,  Mar.  28th,  '82).  As  indicated  in 
an  earlier  note,  the  Chippewa  is  one  of  the  main  waterways  between  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Great  Lakes ;  the  connection  will  be  more  particularly  noted  hereafter. 
Carver  went  this  way  in  June  or  July,  1 867,  after  he  had  wintered  up  the  St.  Peter. 
For  some  distance  from  its  mouth  this  river  separates  Pepin  from  Buffalo  Co. 


i'i 


63 


FORMATION  OF  LAKE   PEPIN. 


harbor  in  a  bay  on  the  east.  One  of  the  canoes  and  my 
boat  came  in  very  well  together ;  but  having  made  a  iirc 
on  the  point  to  give  notice  to  our  boats  in  the  rear,  they 
both  ran  on  the  bar  before  they  doubled  it,  and  were  near 
foundering ;  but  by  jumping  into  the  lake  we  brought  them 
into  a  safe  harbor.     Distance  40  miles.** 

"  Apparently  a  misprint :  Alma  to  Read's  Landing,  near  the  foot  of  Lake 
Pepin,  12  m.  by  the  crooked  channel ;  thence  to  Wakouta,  near  the  head  uf 
the  lake,  is  only  35  m.,  and  Pike  is  not  yet  halfway  through.  He  says 
himself  that  he  made  3  m.  further  to  Sandy  pt.,  and  then  18  m.  up  to  Cannun 
r.  He  undoubtedly  ran  for  shelter  from  the  gale  at  or  near  Stockholm, 
Pepin  Co.,  Wis.  The  channel  is  or  has  lately  been  along  the  Minnesota  side 
to  Lake  City,  crossing  obliquely  to  the  other  side  in  passing  Stockholm,  then 
leaving  for  the  Minn,  side  to  reach  Point  No  Point,  and  so  on  up  this  side  to 
Wakouta,  Red  Wing,  and  Cannon  r.  "  Le  lac  est  petit,  mats  it  est  maiin  "; 
I  faithfully  copy  this  venerable  Jo  Miller,  and  am  ready  to  agree  that  the  lake 
Is  not  big,  but  bad.  It  is  reckoned  about  31  m.  long,  averaging  about  2^  broad ; 
thus  it  is  merely  a  dilation  of  the  Mississippi,  like  that  of  the  St.  Croix  and 
some  other  Mississippian  tributaries,  though  on  a  larger  scale.  The  Chippewa 
r.  was  concerned  in  the  formation  of  Lake  Pepin,  and  the  two  have  had 
some  reciprocal  effect.  General  Warren's  opinion  may  be  here  cited,  Ex.  Doc. 
No.  57,  1866-67,  p.  II :  "  In  order  to  better  understand  the  formation  of  the 
present  bottom-land  valley,  and  comprehend  the  existing  state  of  things,  we 
must  go  back  to  the  time  when,  by  the  elevation  of  the  continent  above  the 
ocean,  the  present  rivers,  like  the  Wisconsin  and  Chippeway,  began  to  flow  into 
the  channel  formed  by  the  prci^ent  Mississippi  bluffs.  As  soon  as  the  sediment 
brought  down  by  their  waters  had  filled  up  the  lateral  chasm  by  whicii  they 
joined  the  Mississippi,  this  sediment  would  begin  to  obstruct  the  flow  of  the 
Mississippi  water,  force  its  channel  to  the  opposite  side,  and  narrow  and  dam 
it  back  till  the  water  gained  sufficient  force  to  carry  the  sediment  down  the 
valley.  The  continual  sorting  out  of  this  sediment  would  leave  the  heavier 
particles  behind,  so  that  this  bar  would  continually  increase  in  elevation  and 
form  a  lake  above.  There  are  evidences  of  the  effect  of  the  Wisconsin  in 
making  such  a  dam  in  the  neighborhood  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  also  by  other 
affluents  above  their  mouths,  which  lakes  have  since  been  filled  up.  In  the 
case  of  the  Chippeway  and  Lake  Pepin  this  effect  still  remains,  the  affluents 
above  the  Chippeway  not  having  been  able  to  fill  up  the  lake  which  was 
formed.  It  secu.s  almost  impossible  to  doubt  that  this  is  the  origin  of  Lake 
Pepin,  and  there  are  evidences  in  the  shape  of  the  sand  and  boulder  spits  along 
the  Mississippi  bluffs  above  Lake  Pepin,  such  as  are  only  formed  now  in  it  and 
Lake  St.  Croix,  which  indicate  that  the  lake  formerly  extended  up  much  higher 
than  now.  .  .  The  river  now  enters  Lake  Pepin  by  three  principal  mouths,  and 
the  land  of  the  delta  gently  slopes  down  to  and  under  the  water.  It  has 
advanced  very  slowly,  if  at  all,  since  first  visited  by  white  men.     The  largest 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  LAKE  PEPIN. 


63 


Sept.  lyth.  Although  there  was  every  appearance  of  a 
very  severe  storm,  we  embarked  at  half-past  six  o'clock,  the 
wind  fair ;  but  before  we  had  hoisted  all  sail,  those  in  front 
had  struck  theirs.     The  wind  came  on  hard  ahead.    The 


sized  Cottonwood  trees,  dying  of  old  age,  are  found  on  the  itlands  within 
two  miles  of  the  head  of  the  lake.  The  small  willows  on  the  low  and  extreme 
points  seem  of  an  almost  uniform  size  and  age  ;  and  are  small  more,  perhaps, 
from  the  unfavorable  condition  in  which  they  are  placed  than  from  want  of 
time  to  grow  since  the  land  was  formed.  The  bottom  in  the  shoal  places  at 
tiie  head  of  Lake  Pepin  is  composed  of  soft  mud,  and  not  of  sand.  It  seems 
pruiiable  that  nearly  all  the  other  islands  of  the  Mississippi  were  formed  in 
similar  lakes  by  advancing  deltas,  until  Anally  the  lakes  were  filled  up.  Lake 
Pepin  hus  almost  no  current,  rmd  deepens  gradually  down  to  near  the  point  of 
entrance  of  the  Chippeway,  and  then  rapidly  shoals  and  narrows  to  form  again 
the  flowing  river."  Lake  Pepin  is  curved  on  itself,  more  so  than  the  old-fashioned 
Italic  letter/,  there  being  a  bend  in  the  middle  reach  which  is  oblique  between 
tiie  straight  and  approximately  parallel  reaches  at  the  two  ends — say  W.  N.  W. 
and  £.  S.  E.,  then  N.  and  S.,  then  nearly  W.  and  E.  The  lake  nearly  fills 
tiie  space  between  the  bluffs  in  which  it  is  embedded,  but  there  are  several 
pieces  of  arable  bottom-land  in  places  where  the  bluffs  recede,  furnishing  the 
sites  of  a  corresponding  number  of  settlements,  mostly  at  points  where  creeks 
or  brooks  fall  in  between  gaps  in  the  hills.  Such  are  Pepin  and  Stockholm, 
Pepin  Co.,  Wis.;  Maiden  Rock  City  and  Bay  City,  Pierce  Co.,  Wis.;  Lake 
City,  Wabasha  Co.,  Minn.;  Florence,  Frontenac,  and  V  akouta  or  Wacouta, 
Goodhue  Co.,  Minn.  Maiden  Rock  City  is  under  the  line  of  bluffs,  about  400 
feet  high,  to  several  of  which  the  Winona  legend  attaches  ;  but  this  town  is  at 
the  mouth  of  Rush  cr,,  and  thus  nearly  5  m.  by  the  railroad  above  that  bluff 
to  which  the  names  of  Maiden's  Rock,  Maiden's  Head,  and  Lover's  Leap  more 
particularly  belong.  This  is  directly  opposite  Sandy  point,  and  only  about  2  ni. 
by  rail  above  the  village  of  Stockholm  ;  being  that  one  of  the  series  of  quite 
similar  bluffs  which  has  a  remarkable  vertical  escarpment,  at  a  point  where 
there  is  litth  room  to  spare  for  the  track  between  the  talus  at  its  foot  and  the 
lake  shore.  A  good  view  is  obtained  as  the  cars  recede  from  it.  Rush  cr.  is 
mapped  both  by  Pike  and  by  Nicollet,  without  name  ;  it  seems  to  be  that  called 
Porcupine-Quill  cr.  by  Schoolcraft,  and  is  perhaps  Marchessau  r.  of  Feather- 
stonhaugh.  A  similar  stream,  also  mapped  by  Pike  and  by  Nicollet,  without 
name,  and  now  known  as  Pine  or  Mill  Pine  cr.,  falls  in  i|^  m.  below  Rush  cr. 
Three  other  small  streams,  known  as  Bogus  cr. ,  Lost  cr. ,  and  Roaring  r. ,  fall  in 
below  Stockholm  on  the  Wisconsin  side  ;  on  which  side,  near  the  head  of  the 
lake,  at  the  place  called  Bay  City,  is  Isabel  cr.  (the  Clear  Water  cr.  of  Nicollet, 
and  perhaps  the  Rocher  Rouge  r.  of  Featherstonhaugh).  On  the  Minnesota 
side  a  creek  falls  in  below  and  another  above  Lake  City  ;  Wells  cr.  (the  Sandy 
Point  cr.  of  Pike,  and  the  Sand  Point  r.  of  Nicollet),  falls  in  at  the  point 
indicated  by  these  names,  a  mile  or  more  below  Frontenac  ;  while  at  Wacouta 


::t^ 


Fv^-'S 


04  HISTORY  OF  LAKE  PEPIN. 

sky  became  inflamed,  and  the  lightning  seemed  to  roll  down 
the  siden  of  the  hills  which  bordered  the  shore  of  the  lake. 
The  storm  in   all  its  grandeur,  majesty,  and  horror  burst 

we  find  a  itream  mapped  by  Nicollet  without  name,  formerly  called  Bullard's 
and  now  known  ai  Ida  cr.  The  most  prominent  part  of  the  Minnesota  «hore, 
where  the  channel  sweeps  around  the  convexity  of  the  bold  headland,  is  fittiii(;ly 
called  Point  No  Point — as  the  up-bound  passenger  discovers  when  the  boat 
rounds  it.  This  is  immediately  above  Frontenac,  opp.  Maiden  Rock  City,  and 
about  the  junction  of  the  middle  with  the  upper  reach  of  the  lake.  This  budy 
of  water  h  between  two  States  and  four  counties.  The  line  between  Pepin  and 
Pierce  cos. ,  Wis, ,  strikes  it  at  or  near  Maiden  Rock  City  ;  that  between  Wabasha 
and  Goodhue,  Minn.,  comes  to  the  lake  below  Frontenar,  about  Lake  City. 

Lake  Pepin  is  commonly  said  to  have  been  "discovered  by  Hennepin"  in 
1680.     This  statement  is  exactly  one-third  right  and  two-thirds  wrong,  and 
does  a  double  injustice,  because  it  ignores  two  of  the  three  white  men  who  w  ere 
simultaneously  on  the  spot.     These  were  :     i.  Michael  Accault,  the  bour^'cois 
or  leader  of  the  party,  who  afterward  flourished  under  the  style  of  Le  Sieur 
d'AccauIt,  d'Acau,  d'  Ako,  Dacan,  etc.     2.  His  man  Antoine  Auguelle,  cum- 
monly  called  Le  Picard,  or  Picard  du  Gay.     3.  His  ecclesiastical  functionary 
Louis  Hennepin,  a  monk  of  the  Franciscan  order,  whom  La  Salle  got  rid  of  by 
sending  him  along  with  Accault  and  Auguelle,  when  this  Chans  trading-jiarty 
started  from  Fort  Crivecoeur  on  the  Illinois  r.,  Feb.  29th,  1680  ;  they  readied 
the   Miss.  r.  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  Mar.  7th,  1680,  and  came  to  Lake 
Pepin  in  June  of  that  year.     It  is  a  pity  that  the  reverend  father's  vanity,  ser- 
vility, and  envy  prevented  him  from  sticking  to  his  ghostly  trade  ;  but  he  was 
ambitious  of  authorship,  like  many  another  religious  worldling,  and  jealous  of 
La  Salle.     So  he  set  about  a  book  for  the  glory  of  a  trinity  composed  of  Louis 
Hennepin,  Louis  XIV.,  and  God.     It  has  made  much  trouble  for  geographers 
and  historians,  who  would  willingly  have  waited  for  all  the  information  tliat  it 
contains  till  this  should  have  been  imparted  by  some  less  bigoted,  less  horn* 
bastic,  and  more  veracious  chronicler  than  this  Recollect  priest,  who  recollected 
a  good  many  things  that  never  happened,  and  forgot  some  of  those  that  did 
occur.     Hennepin  is  the  able  philologist  who  discovered  that  the  Indians  called 
their  solar  deity  by  the  name  of  the  then  King  of  France,  and  who  followed 
up  this  discovery  by  naming  the  whole  country  Louisiana.     He  is  the  same 
unscrupulous  courtier  who  represents  the  king's  arms  to  have  been  cut  in  the 
bark  of  an  oak  west  of  Lac  dcs  Assenipoils,  ca,  lat.  60*  N.  :  see  his  map,  place 
marked  "  Armes  du  Roy  telle  quel'*sont  grauee  sur  ll'escorce  d'vn  Chesiie  a 
lendroit  marque — A".     The  tree  may  be   there  yet,  but  the  monk  never  was. 
Lahontan's    fables    are    entertaining,   like  La  Fontaine's ;    Hennepin's  are  a 
bore.     When  this  little  Louis  is  not  wheedling  the  great  Louis,  he  is  apt  to  be 
whining  ;  he  was  troubled  with  gumboils,  from  dental  caries,  and  did  not 
always  remember  the  excellent  injunction  he  received  from  Father  Gabriel— 
viriliter  age  el  comfortetur  cor  tuum  ;  which  an  Englishman  might  freely  ren- 
der, "  Be  a  man  and  keep  your  courage  up."    This  missionary  lacrhymosely 


*;*#■■ 


STILL  ON  LAKE  PEPIN. 


65 


upon  us  in  the  Traverse,  while  making  for  Point  De  Sable ; 
and  it  required  no  moderate  exertion  to  weather  the  point 
and  get  to  the  windward  side  of  it.    Distance  three  miles." 


named  the  lake,  to  which  Accault,  Auguelle,  and  himself  were  taken  by  the 
Indians,  Lac  des  Pleurs,  a  phrase  which  apjicars  in  Engl,  transls.  of  his  book  as 
l.akt  of  Tears,  "  which  we  so  named,"  as  Shea's  text  reads,  p.  198,  "  because 
the  Indians  who  had  taken  us,  wishing  to  kill  us,  some  of  them  wept  the  whole 
night,  to  induce  the  others  to  consent  to  our  death  " — Ainc  illor  lacryma.  Hi.  . 
nepiii,  by  the  way,  says  further,  i^/V/..-  "Haifa  league  below  the  Lake  uf 
Tears,  on  the  south  side,  is  Buffalo  river."  This  would  make  R.  aux  Boeufs  = 
Chipiiewa  r. :  see  note  **,  p.  58,  for  some  bearings  on  the  case.  The  >■;  lurity 
of  the  origin  of  the  name  Lake  Pepin  has  not  been  cleared  up,  ir  as  I 
know.  Lesueur  came  here  Sept.  :4th,  1700,  and  "  Pepin"  is  found  i.i  La  HarpeN 
MS.  relation  of  '  ■■-."  ir's  journey  of  July  I2th-Dec.  13th,  1700.  It  is 
unlikely  that  this  name,  by  whomever  given,  was  uestowed  with  dircLt  rei- 
erence  ti  'v  person  of  the  Carlovingian  dynasty  ;  they  were  all  dead  and  gone 
o^es  before  the  lake  was  discovered,  when  nobody  but  historical  researchers 
took  any  interest  in  those  defunct  monarchs.  St.  Croix's  and  St.  Pierre's 
rivers  were  certainly  named  for  contemporaneous  individuals,  and  so  probably 
was  Lake  Pepin.  There  were  a  number  of  Frenchmen  by  the  name  of  Pepin, 
Papin,  etc.,  in  the  cour>.try  in  later  years,  and  some  one  or  more  of  them 
may  have  come  before  1700.  Carver  first  came  here  Nov.  ist,  1766  ;  he  notes 
the  remains  of  an  old  F.  factory,  "  where  it  is  said  Capt.  St.  Pierre  resided." 
Old  Ft.  St.  Antoine  may  have  been  on  the  lake  rather  than  at  the  mouth  of 
R.  des  Bucufs  ou  de  Bon  Secours  ;  and  the  lake  was  once  called  Lac  de  Bon 
Secours,  or  Bonsecours,  a  phrase  which  has  been  translated  Lake  Good  Help 
and  Lake  Relief.  Fort  Beauhamois  was  built  on  the  lake,  after  .Sept.  17th,  1727, 
when  La  Perriere  du  Boucher  landed  on  Pointc  au  Sable  or  elsewhere  ;  the 
exact  site  is  unknown.  This  was  an  extensive  and  substantial  structure,  and  was 
named  in  honor  of  the  then  Governor  of  Canada  ;  it  included  a  mission-house 
which  the  ecclesiastical  functionaries  of  Boucher's  outfit  called  St.  Michael,  after 
an  archangel  of  that  denomination.  This  was  the  fourth  French  establishment ; 
the  other  three  having  been  Fort  L'Huillier,  1700,  built  by  Lesueur,  on  the 
Blue  F.arth  r. ,  a  branch  of  St.  Pierre's  ;  the  fort  on  Isle  Pelee,  lielow  Hastings, 
by  Lesueur  also,  in  1695  ;  and  the  fort  below  the  foot  of  Lake  Pepin,  at  or  near 
present  Wabasha,  built  by  Perrot,  1683. 

•'To  a  position  Ij4  m.  below  present  Front?nac,  Goodhue  Co.,  Minn.,  about 
the  mouth  of  Sand  Point  r.  of  Nicollet,  now  called  Wells  cr. ;  this  is  below  pres- 
ent Point  No  Point,  and  Frontenac  is  between.  The  county  was  named  by  the 
I.e(jislative  Assembly  of  Minnesota,  in  1853,  for  James  M.  Goodhue,  b, 
Hebron,  N.  H.,  M«i  jist,  1810,  came  to  St.  Paul,  Minn.,  Apr.  i8th,  1849, 
founded  the  Pioneer  nevrapaper,  d.  8.30  p.  m.,  Friday,  Aug.  37th,  185a  :  see 
his  obit,  by  E.  D.  Neill,  Minn.  Hist.  See.  Coll..  I  (orig.  ed.  1850-56),  3d  ed. 
1872,  pp.  245-53. 


II 


€6 


MR.  CAMERON — MAIDEN  ROCK. 


There  we  found  Mr.  Cameron,"  who  had  sailed  from  the 
prairie  [Prairie  du  Chien]  on  the  5th ;  he  had  three  bark 
canoes  and  a  wooden  one  with  him.  He  had  been  lying 
here  two  days,  his  canoes  unloaded  and  turned  up  for  the 
habitation  of  his  men,  his  tents  pitched,  and  himself  living 
in  all  the  ease  of  an  Indian  trader.  He  appeared  to  be  a 
man  of  tolerable  information,  but  rather  indolent  in  his 
habits ;  a  Scotchman  by  birth,  but  an  Englishman  by  prej 
udice.  He  had  with  him  a  very  handsome  young  man,  by 
the  name  of  John  Rudsdell,  and  also  his  own  son,  a  lad  of 
fifteen. 

The  storm  continuing,   we  remained  all  day.      I  was 
shown  a  point  of  rocks  [Maiden   Rock,  400  feet  high "] 

**  Pike  calls  him  Murdock  Cameron  on  Apr.  I2th  :  see  that  date  ;  text  of 
1807  has  Mordock  Cameron,  p.  59  and  p.  64  :  see  also  L.  and  C,  ed.  1893, 
pp.  239,  1222.  This  is  the  same  Cameron  of  whom  Featherstonhaugh,  Canoe 
Voyage,  etc,  I.  1847,  p.  314,  speaks  at  length,  and  whose  death  in  181 1 
is  given  as  follows  :  "  Passed  a  place  on  the  right  bank  [of  St.  Pierre's  r., 
above  the  Waraju]  where  Milor  [F.'s  voyageur]  buried  his  bourgeois,  a  Mr. 
Cameron,  in  181 1.  He  was  an  enterprising,  sagacious  Scotchman  *"hu  had 
amassed  a  good  deal  of  property  by  trafficking  with  the  Indians  ;  .  .  .  and 
whilst  upon  one  of  his  expeditions  he  was  taken  ill  in  his  canoe,  was  landed, 
and  died  in  the  woods."  Fgh.  does  not  hint  at  foul  play  here  ;  for  the  sus- 
picions in  the  case,  see  Long,  as  cited  in  my  L.  and  C.  Cameron  was  buried 
on  a  bluff  near  Lac  qui  Parle,  the  lake  where  his  trading-post  was,  and  "  Cam- 
eron's grave  "  has  continued  to  be  an  identified  spot  from  that  day  to  this. 
Cameron's  name  appears  as  that  of  one  of  the  four  witnesses  to  Pike's  Sioux 
treaty  of  Sept.  23d  on  one  of  the  manuscript  copies  of  that  document  before  me. 
The  "  Milor"  mentioned  here  was  a  Canadian  French  half-breed  who  became 
very  well  known  as  a  resident  of  Mendota,  Minn.,  where  he  died  about  i860, 
"  after  a  long  life  full  of  adventure  and  daring  exploits,"  as  J.  F.  Williams 
says,  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  I.  2d.  ed.  1872,  p.  375. 

•'  Those  of  a  sentimental  turn  who  may  like  to  have  the  full-rounded  legend 
of  the  maiden  Winona  will  find  the  romance  related  in  a  schola-ly  yet  sym- 
pathetic vein  by  Prof.  Keating,  in  Long  of  1823,  pub.  1824,  I.  pp.  280-85. 
Beltrami,  II.  p.  183,  calls  the  girl  Oholoattha,  her  lover  Anikigi,  comparing  tiie 
pair  to  the  muse  of  Mitylene  and  Phaon.  Whether  the  tragic  event  is  fact  or 
fancy  is  another  question  I  see  no  use  of  raising.  There  is  no  inherent  improb- 
ability in  the  case  ;  any  girl  could  have  thrown  herself  over  the  rock  with 
more  ease  than  she  had  climbed  it  for  that  purpose,  and  suicide  is  not  less 
frequent  among  squaws  than  various  other  peoples  of  both  sexes.  In  the 
case  of  Indian  women  the  most  usual  causes  are  said  to  be  grief,  anger,  and 


i 


^r  ?^■; 


LEGEND  OF  THE   LAKE— CANNON  RIVER. 


67 


.:  1 


om  the 
se  bark 
n  lying 
for  the 
f  living 
to  be  a 
in  his 
by  prej 
man,  by 
a  lad  of 


I 

high 


was 

«41 


ite  ;  text  of 
„  ed.  1893, 
lugh,  Canoe 
ith  in  1811 
Pierre's  r., 
jeois,  a  Mr. 
m  '"ho  had 
1;  ...  and 
was  landed, 
for  the  sus- 
was  buried 
and  "  Cam- 
day  to  this. 
Pike's  Sioux 
t  before  me. 
who  became 
about  i860, 
Williams 

nded  legend 
Hy  yet  sym- 

np,    280-85. 

Imparing  the 
tnt  is  fact  or 
lent  improb- 
|e  rock  with 
is  not  less 
kes.  In  the 
I,  anger,  and 


from  which  a  Sioux  maiden  cast  herself,  and  was  dashed 
into  a  thousand  pieces  on  the  rocks  below.  She  had  been 
informed  that  her  friends  intended  matching  her  to  a  man 
she  despised  ;  having  been  refused  the  man  she  had  chosen, 
she  ascended  the  hill,  singing  her  death-song ;  and  before 
they  could  overtake  her  and  obviate  her  purpose  she  took 
the  lover's  leap !  Thus  ended  her  troubles  with  her  life. 
A  wonderful  display  of  sentiment  in  a  savage  ! 

Sept.  i8th.  Embarked  after  breakfast.  Mr.  Cameron, 
with  his  boats,  came  on  with  me.  Crossed  the  lake,  sounded 
it,  and  took  an  observation  at  the  upper  end.  I  embarked 
in  one  of  his  canoes,  and  we  came  up  to  Canoe  river,"  where 

revenge,  though  in  some  cases  the  suicidal  resolve  is  more  deliberate,  and 
rather  a  matter  ot  social  etiquette  or  of  a  religious  code  than  of  emotional 
insanity.  I  understand  that  hanging  is  the  customary  method  of  taking  one's 
self  off ;  and  that  the  smallest  tree  which  will  answer  the  purpose  is  pre- 
ferred, because  it  is  an  article  of  belief  that  the  ghost  thus  discamated  must 
drag  the  instrument  of  death  about  for  a  period,  and  a  woman  naturally  pre- 
fers to  lighten  the  load  as  much  as  possible.  Supposing  Winona  to  have 
taken  the  fatal  leap,  it  is  reasonable  to  infer  from  the  faith  in  such  affairs 
that  she  is  there  yet,  chained  to  the  rock  like  another  Andromeda  ;  for  the 
bluff  is  too  big  for  her  to  budge  an  inch,  even  with  the  assistance  of  a  pos- 
sible Perseus.  There  is  unim]}eachable  precedent  for  her  performance  in 
the  classics,  not  entirely  dissociated  from  the  name  and  fame  of  the  gifted 
poetical  archetsera  Sapnho  ;  and  rocks  reputed  to  be  the  scenes  of  lovers'  leaps 
abound  in  history  f.nd  geography. 

"  That  much-named  river,  whereto  hangs  a  tale  of  great  length.  Pike  here 
has  the  right  name  of  it,  thoughit  is  now  usually  called  Cannon  r.,  by  perver- 
sion of  the  French  Riviire  aux  Canots  :  Cano,  Canot,  Canon,  Canow  r.  of 
various  writers;  Riviere  au  Canon,  Canoe  r..  Cannon  r.,  Pike,  passim;  Canon  r.. 
Long's  map  ;  Eamozindata  or  High  Rock  r..  Long's  text,  1824,  L  p.  263  ;  Inyan 
Bosndata  r..  Natural  Obelisk  r.,  Standing  Rock  r.,  Lahontan  r.,  Cannon  r., 
Nicollet,  text  and  map.  It  is  commonly  supposed  that  the  stream  marked  R. 
aux  Raisins  on  Franquelin's  map  of  1688  is  this  river,  and  I  see  no  objection  to 
this  identification  ;  for  though  the  name  is  suspiciously  like  a  mistake  for  R. 
aux  Racines,  the  river  is  laid  down  as  above  the  Chippewa,  and  can  hardly  have 
be';n  intended  for  Root  r.  The  main  question  is  whether  R,  Morte  and  R. 
Longue  (Long  r.),  Lahontan,  1686-87,  are  names  to  be  added  to  the  synomynis 
of  this  stream.  The  Baron  Lahontan,  "  Lord  Lieutenant  of  the  French  colony 
at  Placentia  in  Newfoundland,"  gives  an  account  of  himself  on  the  Miss.  r.  in 
Letter  XVI.  of  his  book,  pp.  104-141  of  the  Englished.,  Lond.,  1735.  This 
letter  is  "  Dated  at  Missilimakinac,  May  28th,  16S9,  containing  an  Account  of 


f  !t 

r 
1     ■ 


II 


■!l. 


I 


68 


lahontan's  fabulous  long  river. 


there  was  a  small  band  of  Sioux  under  the  command  of 
Red  Wing,  the  second  war  chief  in  the  nation.  He  made 
me  a  speech  and  presented  a  pipe,  pouch,  and  buffalo  skin. 
He  appeared  to  be  a  man  of  sense,  and  promised  to  accom- 

the  Author's  Departure  from,  and  Return  to  Missilimackinac.  A  Description 
of  the  Bay  of  Puante,  and  its  Villages.  An  Ample  Description  of  the  Bea- 
vers ;  followed  by  the  journal  of .  a  remarkable  Voyage  upon  the  Long 
River,  and  a  Map  of  the  adjacent  Country."  According  to  this  relation 
Lahontan  came  by  the  Fox- Wisconsin  route  to  Prairie  du  Chien  Oct.  23d, 
1686,  thus  hard  upon  the  heels  of  Accault's  party,  who  had  Hennepin  along : 
"  On  the  3d  [of  Nov.]  we  entered  the  Mouth  of  the  Long  River,  which  looks 
like  a  lake  full  of  Bull-rushes  ;  we  found  in  the  middle  of  it  a  narrow  Chan- 
nel," etc.  He  continued  his  journey,  on  paper  if  not  on  the  river,  and  returned 
to  the  Mississippi  Mar.  ad,  1687 ;  dropped  down  to  the  Missouri  Mar.  17th ; 
went  up  the  Missouri  to  the  Osage  r. ;  down  the  Missouri  to  the  Mississippi 
again  Mar.  25th  ;  down  the  Mississippi  to  the  Wabash,  and  back  up  to  the  Illi- 
nois Apr.  7th  ;  up  the  Illinois  to  Fort  Crevecoeur  Apr.  i6th  ;  arrived  at 
"  Chekakou  "  Apr.  24th  ;  and  made  Michilimackinac  soon  afterward.  The 
whole  crux  of  Lahontan's  relation  is  in  his  Long  r.,  which  he  professes  to 
have  ascended  a  great  distance  to  the  countries  of  the  Eororos,  Esanapes,  and 
Gnacsitares,  where  he  also  got  wind  of  equally  peculiar  people  called  Mozeemlek 
and  Tahuglauk.  The  main  feature  of  his  map  is  the  "  Morte  or  River  Longue," 
represented  as  larger  than  that  portion  of  the  Mississippi  which  he  traces,  and 
as  heading  in  a  great  lake  which  connects  across  high  mountains  by  numer- 
ous large  streams  with  another  great  river  which  runs  off  his  map  due  W. 
De  te  fabula  narratur.  But  there  is  nothing  to  forbid  us  to  suppose  that 
Lahontan  went  up  to  or  toward,  or  even  ascended,  some  such  stream  as  Cannon 
r.,  and  then  simply  tacked  this  on  to  St.  Peter's  r.  by  hearsay.  We  must 
in  justice  observe  that  all  he  professes  to  know  about  Long  r.  above  the  point 
he  says  he  ascended  it  he  acknowledges  he  got  from  the  natives ;  and  he  is 
careful  to  separate  his  map  into  two  parts  by  a  heavy  line  lettered  "  The 
Division  of  the  Two  Maps,"  >.  e.,  his  own  and  one  "  drawn  upon  Stag- 
skins  by  y^  Gnacsitares."  Such  a  piece  of  patch- work  would  easily  make  his 
Long  r.  out  of  Cannon  or  some  similar  stream,  run  on  to  the  whole  course 
of  St.  Peter's  above  the  Mankato  or  Blue  Earth  r.  Fortunately  we  have 
little  to  do  with  the  Baron's  crazy-quilt,  but  I  must  here  quote  Nicollet, 
because  he  sees  reason  to  believe  that  Lahontan  really  did  ascend  Cannon 
r.,  and  has  signalized  his  conclusion  by  naming  it  Lahontan  r.  on  his  map. 
Though  the  gentle  Nicollet's  quality  of  mercy  was  never  strained,  yet  his 
judgments,  even  his  special  pleadings,  deserve  always  the  most  respectful  con- 
sideration. Nicollet  says,  in  substance.  Rep.  pp.  20,  21,  that  he  was  forced 
to  this  conclusion  after  surveying  the  Undine  region  ;  that  the  principal  state- 
ments of  the  Baron  "  coincided  remarkably  well  with  what  I  have  laid  down 
OS  belonging  to  Cannon  river.  .  .    His  account,  too,  of  the  mouth  of  the  river 


RED  wing's  village. 


69 


land  of 
e  made 
lo  skin, 
accom- 

•escription 
(  the  Bea- 
the  Long 
is  relation 
Oct.  23d, 
pin  along: 
irhich  looks 
now  Chan- 
id  returned 
Mar,  17th ; 
Mississippi 
I  to  the  Illi- 
arrived  at 
ward.    The 
professes  to 
lanapes,  and 
Mozeemlek 
er  Longue," 
e  traces,  and 
5  by  numer- 
map  due  W. 
,uppose  that 
n  as  Cannon 
We  must 
ive  the  point 
;   and  he  is 
;ered  "  The 
upon  Stag- 
kly  make  his 
hole  course 
fly  we  have 
Ite  Nicollet, 
lend  Cannon 
m  his  map. 
Ined,  yet  his 
jpectful  con- 
was  forced 
[ncipal  state- 
le  laid  down 
of  the  river 


pany  me  to  St.  Peters  [the  Minnesota  river]  ;  he  saluted  me, 
and  had  it  returned.     I  made  him  a  small  present." 

We  encamped  on  the  end  of  the  island,  and  although  it 
was  not  more  than  eleven  o'clock,  were  obliged  to  stay  all 
night.    Distance  18  miles." 

is  particularly  accurate  " ;  the  objection  that  the  Baron  says  that  he  navigated 
Long  r.  in  November  and  December,  when  it  is  usually  frozen,  is  in  part 
overcome  by  the  fact  that  it  is  one  of  the  la.st  to  freeze,  and  the  last  resort  of 
the  wild  fowl ;  and  while  he  must  convict  the  Baron  of  "  gross  exaggeration  of 
the  length  of  the  river,"  of  its  numerous  population,  and  other  pretended 
information,  he  would  conclude  "that  if  La  Hon  tan's  claims  to  discoveries 
are  mere  fables,  he  has  had  the  good  fortune  or  the  sagacity  to  come  near  the 
truth."  As  this  musty  old  straw  has  never  been  threshed  over  to  find  any 
more  grains  of  wheat  in  it  than  Nicollet  believed  he  had  garnered,  no  one  else 
is  likely  in  the  future  to  make  more  of  it  than  this  ;  and  our  alternative  seems 
to  be  to  accept  Nicollet's  results,  or  noil.  pros,  the  whole  case.  I  incline  to  the 
former,  partly  from  my  habitual  inclination  to  account  for  as  many  historical 
names  as  possible,  partly  because  I  have  so  much  confidence  in  Nicollet.  It 
does  not  seem  to  have  occurred  to  him  that  his  view  of  the  case  would  be 
strengthened  by  the  original  though  probably  not  new  suggestion  I  have  made, 
to  the  effect  that  fables  of  the  St.  Peter,  tacked  on  to  some  facts  of  Can> 
non  r.,  would  explain  Lahontan's  Long  r. 

"The  present  town  of  Redwing  or  Red  Wing,  Goodhue  Co.,  Minn.,  com- 
memorates this  chieftain,  and  preserves  the  site  of  his  village  with  entire 
exactitude.  Pike's  tabular  statement,  bound  in  this  work,  calls  him  Talanga- 
mane,  L'Aile  Rouge,  and  Red  Wing  ;  his  tribe,  Minowa  Kantong,  Gens  du  Lac, 
and  People  of  the  Lakes.  Beltrami,  II.  p.  186,  makes  one  Tantangamani 
"  the  unnatural  father  of  the  unhappy  Oholoaitha."  "  Major  Long  anived  on 
the  evening  of  the  30th  [of  June,  1823]  at  an  Indian  village,  which  is  under 
the  direction  of  Shakea,  (the  man  that  paints  himself  red  ;)  the  village  has 
retained  the  appellation  of  Redwing,  (aile  rouge,)  by  which  this  chief  was 
formerly  distinguished,"  Keating's  Long,  I.  p.  251,  where  the  name  which 
Pike  renders  "  Talangamane"  is  given  as  that  of  Red  Wing's  son,  Tatun- 
kamene,  and  translated  Walking  Buffalo.  "The  Redwing  chief  is,  at  present 
[1823],  very  much  superannuated,  but  he  is  still  much  respected  on  account 
of  his  former  distinguished  achievements,"  ibid.,  p.  260.  More  about  him  to 
come  in  Pike,  beyond. 

•'  Frontenac  to  Red  Wing,  some  13  miles  by  present  channel,  whence  it  is  a 
couple  of  miles  further  to  the  head  of  the  island  opp.  Cannon  r. ;  camp.  Pike 
coasts  the  Minnesota  shore  till  he  finishes  with  the  lake  at  the  mouth  of  Bul- 
lard's  or  Ida  cr.,  a  streamlet  that  makes  in  at  a  town  called  after  the  chief 
Wakouta,  Wacouta,  Wakuta,  etc.  Here  he  enters  one  of  the  channels  by 
which  the  Mississsippi  finds  its  way  into  the  lake,  no  doubt  the  middle  one, 
then  as  now  the   main   one,  which,  however,  soon  joins  the  south  one  ;  the 


m 


!   ■■ 


70 


LA  GRANGE— CANNON  AND  ST.   CROIX  RIVERS. 


i  i ; 


Sept.  igth.  Embarked  early;  dined  at  St.  Croix"  river. 
Messrs.  Frazer  and  Cameron  having  some  business  to  do 
with  the  savages,  we  left  them  at  the  encaippment ;  but  they 

north  channel  is  narrower,  crookeder,  shoaler,  and  connected  with  some  expan- 
sions known  as  Upper  and  Lower  lakes  and  Goose  bay.  The  town  of  Red 
Wing  is  situated  on  the  S.  side  of  a  sharp  bend  the  river  makes  in  coming  from 
the  Cannon,  on  a  plain  under  bluffs  that  nearly  encompass  the  town  ;  one 
of  these  is  specially  notable  as  the  isolated  elevation  forming  a  conspicuous 
landmark  on  the  very  brink  of  the  river.  This  is  Bam  bluff,  or  Barn  moun- 
tain, so  named  by  tr.  of  F.  La  Grange ;  it  is  Ji^  of  a  mile  long  and  345  feet 
above  low  water  mark;  "upon  the  highest  point  of  the  Grange,  Major  Long, 
who  ascended  it  in  1817,  observed  an  artificial  mound,  whose  elevation  above 
its  base  was  about  five  feet,"  Keating,  I.  p.  296.  Nicollet  made  the  altitude 
322  feet,  with  commendable  caution  ;  Owen  gave  350  feet,  almost  correctly. 
This  word  Grange  is  often  found  as  Gange  :  thus  Beltrami  has  in  text,  p.  189, 
mountain  of  the  Gange,  and  Gange  r. ;  latter  also  on  map,  and  I  suppose 
Ganges  r,  could  be  found,  even  at  this  distance  from  India.  About  the 
mouth  of  Cannon  r.,  opp.  Pike's  camp,  there  was  a  place  called  Remnichah; 
both  Nicollet  and  Owen  chart  Remnicha  r.  or  cr.  as  a  stream  falling  in  close  to 
the  mouth.  While  Remnicha  or  Hhemnicha  was  a  name  of  Red  Wing's  village, 
it  also  covered  the  whole  tract  from  Barn  bluff  to  Cannon  r.  Mr.  A.  J.  Hill  in- 
forms me  of  "a  small  ravine  or  coulee  which  ran  through  Red  Wing's  village, 
and  in  1854,  when  I  lived  there,  was  called  the  Jordan.  It  only  headed  a  few  blocks 
back,  and  is  now  doubtless  a  sewer  or  tilled  up."  So  Nicollet's  Remnicha  r.  is 
that  now  known  as  Hay  cr. ,  above  which  a  certain  Spring  cr.  makes  in  on  the  same 
side.  Present  town  of  Trenton,  Pierce  Co.,  Wis.,  is  about  a  mile  above  camp. 
*•  Discovery  of  the  St.  Croix  r.  is  commonly  attributed  to  Accault's  party, 
already  mentioned  as  consisting  of  himself,  Auguelle,  and  Hennepin,  prisoners 
in  the  hands  of  the  Sioux  at  the  time.  The  date  is  1680 ;  day  in  question. 
According  to  La  Salle's  letter  of  Aug.  22d,  1682,  written  at  Fort  Frontenac, 
in  Margry's  Relations,  II.  p.  245  seq.,  it  was  very  shortly  after  the  22d  of  April, 
1680,  when  the  Indians  who  were  carrying  them  off  had  come  up  the  Mississippi 
to  8  leagues  below  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  then  determined  to  finish  their 
journey  by  land  to  their  village  at  Mille  Lacs.  As  the  St.  Croix  is  more  than 
34  m.  below  Minneapolis,  this  party  must  have  passed  its  mouth  about  the 
date  said.  The  Memoir  of  Le  Sieur  Daniel  Greysolon  Du  Luth  to  the  Marquis 
of  Seignelay,  1685  (Archives  of  the  Ministry  of  the  Marine),  states  that  in  June, 
1680,  he  entered  a  river  8  leagues  from  the  end  of  Lake  Superior,  ascended  it, 
made  a  half  league  portage,  and  fell  into  "  a  very  fine  river,"  which  took  him  to 
the  Mississippi  r.  This  was  the  St.  Croix,  which  Du  Luth  thus  certainly 
descended  to  its  mouth  at  that  time.  He  heard  of  the  captivity  of  his  country- 
men with  indignation  and  surprise,  hired  a  Sioux  to  show  him  where  they  were, 
and  rescued  them  ;  he  says  that  he  put  them  in  his  canoes  and  carried  them  to 
Michelimakinak,  whence,  after  wintering  there,  they  set  out  for  the  settlements 
Mar.  29th,  1681.     It  is  quite  possible  that  before  the  great  triangular  duel 


'7.\ 


HISTORY  OF  ST.   CROIX  RIVER. 


71 


'  river. 

to  do 

It  they 

»e  expan- 
n  of  Red 
Hng  from 
3wn  ;  one 
mspicucus 
am  moun- 
i  345  feet 
ijor  Long, 
ition  above 
he  altitude 
t  correctly. 
!Xt,  p.  189, 
1  suppose 
About  the 
lemnichah ; 
g  in  close  to 
ing's  village, 
^.  J.  Hill  in- 
jng's  village, 
la  few  blocks 
emnicba  r.  is 
n  on  the  same 
above  camp. 
;aulf s  party, 
lin,  prisoners 
in  question. 
:t  Frontenac, 
22d  of  April, 
le  Mississippi 
;o  finish  their 
more  than 
J  about  the 
the  Marquis 
that  in  June, 
r,  ascended  it, 
h  took  him  to 
Ihus   certainly 
his  country- 
ire  they  we«' 
rried  them  to 
le  settlements 
iangular  duel 


promised  to  overtake  me,  though  they  should  be  obliged  to 
travel  until  twelve  o'clock  at  nifjht.  Fired  a  blunderbuss  for 
them  at  Tattoo.     The  chain  of  my  watch  became  unhooked, 

which  La  Salle,  Du  Luth,  and  Hennepin   managed  to  arrange  among  them- 
selves over  the  operations  of  1680,  the  St.  Croix  was  seen  by  the  missionary 
Menard,  who  in  1661  may  have  reached  the  Mississippi  by  way  of  the  St.  Croix 
or  some  other  way,  and  was  soon  after  lost.     Marquette  is  not  in  question  here,  as 
he  came  by  the  Wisconsin  to  the  Mississippi  and  went  down  the  latter.     So  with 
any  other  person  who  reached  the  Mississippi  prior  to  1680.     Excepting  the 
Menard  matter,  which  is  uncertain,  the  case  narrows  to  Accault's  party  and 
Du  Luth,  within  some  weeks  of  each  other,  late  spring  and  early  summer  of 
1680 ;  the  facts  appear  to  be  that  the  former  first  passed  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Croix,  and  the  latter  first  descended  this  river.     Hennepin  first  named  the  river 
R.  de  Tombeau,  Descr.  Louis.,  1683,  map;    this  is  translated  Tomb  r.,  as, 
e.g.,  Shea's  Hennepin,  1880,  p.  199,  where  we  read:  "Forty  leagues  above 
[Chir.pewa  r.]  is  a  river  full  of  rapids,  by  which,  striking  northwest  [read  N.E.], 
you  tan  proceed  to  Lake  Conde  [L.   Superior],  as  far  as  Nimissakouat  [in 
Margry  Nemitsakouat,  in  the  Nouv.  Dec.  Nissipikouet,  being  the  Bois  Briile] 
river,  which  empties  into  that  lake.     This  first  river  is  called  Tomb  river  because 
the  Issati  [Sioux]  left  there  the  body  of  one  of  their  warriors,  killed  by  a  rattle- 
snake, on  whom,  according  to  their  custom,  I  put  a  blanket."    Some  translate 
Grave  r.    On  Franquelin's  map,  i688,  the  St.  Croix  is  lettered  R.  de  la  Magde- 
laine,  though  a  certain  Fort  St.  Croix  appears  about  its  head  ;  by  whom  it  was 
first  called  Magdalene  r.  I  am  not  informed.     Lahontan's  map  shows  nothing 
here ;  he  was  too  full  of  his  fabulous  Long  r.  to  concern  himself  much  with  real 
rivers.    Next  come  Lesueur  and  his  people,  1695  ;  he  had  first  reached  the 
Mississippi  in  1683,  and  on  this  his  second  appearance  (his  third  being  in  1700) 
they  built  the  (rading-house  called  Fort  Lesueur  on  Pelee  isl.,  just  below  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  Croix,  as  already  noted.     His  editor,  so  far  as  thi»  trip  is  con- 
cerned, is  the  clever  carpenter  Penicaut,  a  sensible,  fair-and-square  man.     Just 
here  comes  in  the  question  of  the  first  application  of  the  name  St.  Croix.     The 
river  was  already  so  called  and  the  name  in  use  before  1700 ;   thus,  Nicolas 
Parrot's  prise  de  possession,  a  document  dated  at  Fort  St.  Antoine,  May  8,  1689, 
mentions  the  Riviire-Sainte-Croix.     The  Carte  du  Canada  ou  de  la  Nouvelle 
France,  par  Guillame  de  L'Isle,  Paris,  1703,  traces  the  river  and  letters  it  "  L. 
&  R.  Ste.  Croix,"  i.  e.,  ks  some  have  translated  it.  Lake  and  River  Holy  Cross  ; 
said  lake  being,  of  course,  the  dilation  of  the  same  bottle-nosed  river,  which  issues 
from  a  contracted  orifice,  but  is  a  mile  or  two  wide  higher  up.     But  whatever 
the  theological  proclivity  to  suppose  this  name  to  have  been  given  for  the  usual 
instrument  of  the  execution  of  Roman  malefactors,  later  put  by  the  Emperor 
Constantine  on  his  banner,  and  afterward  used  for  other  purposes,  it  is  certain 
that  the  Christian  crucifix  is  not  directly  implied  in  the  name.     It  is  a  personal 
designation,  connoting  one  Sainte  Croix  or  Saint  Croix,  a  trader  named  in  La 
Harpe's  MSS.  of  Lesueur's  third  voyage  as  a  Frenchman  who  had  been  wrecked 
there;  for  we  read  :  "  September  16  he  [Lesueur]  passed  on  the  east  a  large 


f 


5 

I 


11 


1 
I 


73 


PRESCOTT— POINT  DOUGLAS— HASTINGS.- 


'MM:'fi. 


by  lending  her  to  my  guard ;  this  was  a  very  serious  mis- 
fortune." 

Se/rt.  20th.  Embarked  after  sunrise.  Cloudy,  with  hard 
head  winds ;  a  small  shower  of  rain  ;  cleared  up  in  the  after- 
river  called  Saint(i-Croix,  because  a  Frenchman  of  that  name  was  shipwrecked 
at  its  mouth. "  Hennepin  names  Sainte  Croix  as  one  of  six  men  who  deserted  La 
Salle.  A  letter  written  in  June,  1684,  by  Du  Luth  to  Governor  De  la  Barre  (who 
succeeded  Frontenac  in  1682),  states  that  the  writer  had  met  one  Sieur  de  la  Croix 
and  his  two  companions.  This  case  resembles  those  of  La  Crosse  r.  already 
noted,  and  St.  Pierre  r.,  noted  beyond.  It  may  be  summed  in  the  statement 
that  St.  Croix  r.,  St.  Pierre  r.,  and  Lake  Pepin,  were  all  three  so  named  for 
persons,  by  Lesueur  or  his  companions,  not  earlier  than  1683  and  not  later 
than  1695  ;  best  assignable  date,  i68g.  The  river  has  also  been  called  Hohang 
or  Fish  r.  (cf.  Sioux  Hogan-wanke-kin).  The  character  of  St.  Croix's  r.  as  a 
waterw«y  to  the  Great  Lakes  is  elsewhere  discussed.  This  stream  n  ^i  forms 
the  boundary  between  Wisconsin  and  Minne.sota  from  its  mouth  to  beyond  46°  N., 
where  it  splits  up  into  small  streams  in  Burnett  Co. ,  Wis.  Its  general  course  is 
not  far  from  S. — it  is  due  S.  for  many  miles  before  it  falls  into  the  Mississippi; 
which  latter,  for  a  great  distance  above  their  confluence,  has  a  general  bearing 
S.  £.  Immediately  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix,  on  the  E.,  is  Prescott,  Pierce 
Co. ,  Wis.,  the  site  of  which  was  once  recommended  by  Long  for  a  military  post ; 
on  the  W.  is  Point  Douglas,  Washington  Co.,  Minn.;  and  across  the  Mississippi, 
a  very  little  higher  up,  is  Hastings,  seat  of  Dakota  Co.,  Minn.,  at  the  moutli  of 
Vermilion  r.  The  above-mentioned  dilation  of  the  river  into  Lake  St.  Croix 
extends  some  30  m.  up  from  its  mouth  ;  and  as  far  above  this  lake  as  an  Indian 
ordinarily  paddled  his  canoe  in  a  day  was  the  long-noted  Sioux-Chippewa  bound- 
ary, at  a  place  which  became  known  as  Standing  Cedars.  Thus  the  river  did 
duty  in  Indian  politics  before  it  set  bounds  to  our  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin. 
This  lake  was  often  called  Lower  St.  Croix  1.,  in  distinction  from  the  sizable 
body  of  water  at  the  head  of  the  river  known  as  Upper  St.  Croix  1.  For  the 
route  thence  by  Burnt  r.  to  Lake  Superior,  see  a  note  beyond. 

'0  Especially  as  it  leaves  us  in  the  lurch  for  mileage  of  the  igth.  But  we 
can  easily  overhaul  him  before  he  gets  to  St.  Paul,  which  is  only  30  river- 
miles  from  Prescott  (mouth  of  St.  Croix  r.).  He  did  not  go  far  above  this 
river ;  for  he  makes  it  26 1^+8=34 |i  m.  to  the  Sioux  village,  which  latter  was 
close  to  the  present  city  limits  of  St.  Paul.  If  we  must  set  a  camp  for  him,  it 
may  be  assigned  to  Hastings,  Dakota  Co..  Minn.,  2^  m.  above  Prescott,  Pierce 
Co.,  Wis.,  and  18^  m.  below  Newport,  Washington  Co.,  Minn.,  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  which  he  will  camp  to-morrow.  "  Tattoo,"  at  which  the  blunderbuss  was 
fired,  is  not  a  place,  as  the  context  and  capitalization  might  suggest,  but  a  cer> 
tain  military  call  which  is  habitually  sounded  in  garrisons  and  camps  in  the 
evening  before  taps.  It  marks  the  hour  when  the  soldiers  are  supposed  to 
retire  to  their  quarters  for  their  devotions  before  the  lights  are  put  out  at  taps, 
and  when  the  oiEcers  settle  down  in  earnest  for  the  night's  poker.     In  approach- 


LESUEUR  S  TERRACE— VERMILION  RIVER. 


73 


noon,  and  became  pleasant.  Encamped  on  a  prairie  on  the 
east  side,  on  which  is  a  large  painted  stone,  about  eight 
miles  below  the  Sioux  village.  The  traders  had  not  yet 
overtaken  me.    Distance  26^  miles." 


ing  the  St.  Croix  from  his  camp  opposite  Cannon  r.,  Pike  has  bluffs  off  his 
right  nearly  all  the  way,  and  the  town  of  Diamond  Bluff,  Pierce  Co.,  Wis.,  is 
at  the  point  where  they  first  reach  to  the  river,  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the 
moutli  of  Trimbelle  r.,  right,  and  ii  m.  below  Prescott.  On  the  left  the  bluffs 
are  off  the  river  all  the  way,  and  for  most  of  this  distance  Vermilion  slough, 
running  under  the  bluffs,  cuts  off  an  island  ii  m.  long  and  at  its  widest  near 
3  m.  broad.  The  lower  outlet  of  the  slough  is  below  Trimbelle  r. ;  the  middle 
opening  is  only  3  m.  below  Prescott ;  the  upper  one  is  at  Hastings.  The  bot- 
tom-land of  the  principal  island  has  several  bodies  of  water,  one  of  them  called 
Sturgeon  1.,  discharging  separately  from  the  main  slough;  and  is  traversed 
lengthwise  by  a  sand-bank  6  m.  long,  which  may  be  called  Lesueur's  Terrace. 
For  this  Prairie  or  Bald  isl.  is  no  doubt  that  formerly  known  as  Isle  Pelee,  on 
which  was  built  Fort  Lesueur,  1695 .  The  middle  opening  of  Vermilion  slough 
is  in  common  with  a  lower  outlet  of  Vermilion  r.  This  is  Rapid  r.  of  Long,  and 
Riviere  Jaune  of  the  French  ;  "  R.  Jaune"  appears  on  Franquelin's  map,  1688. 
The  upper  discharge  of  this  river  is  at  Hastings,  and  thus  above  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Croix ;  Lake  Isabel  is  a  small  sheet  between  the  river  and  the  town. 
The  Mil  -'sota  county  line  between  Goodhue  and  Dakota  strikes  the  Missis- 
sippi just  -  '4  m.  below  the  lower  mouth  of  Vermilion  r.  At  the  mouth  of  the 
St.  Croix  the  Mississippi  ceases  or  rather  begins  to  separate  Wisconsin  from 
Minnesota  ;  so  that  henceforth  Pike  proceeds  in  tiic  latter  State. 

■"  Hastings  to  Newport,  18^  m.  by  the  channel ;  camp  a  mile  and  a  half 
beyond  this,  vicinity  of  present  Red  Rock,  Washington  Co. ,  at  the  point  on 
the  small  strip  of  prairie  where  the  Sioux  had  their  celebrated  red  medi- 
cine-stone ;  this  was  the  "  large  painted  stone "  Pike  observed.  It  gave  name 
to  Red  Rock,  having  meanwhile  become  a  historical  object.  We  read  in  Long, 
I.  p.  287  :  "  a  stone  which  is  held  in  high  veneration  by  the  Indians  on  account 
of  the  red  pigment  with  which  it  is  bedawbed,  it  is  generally  called  the  painted 
stone.  .  .  It  is  a  fragment  of  syenite,  which  is  about  four  and  a  half  feet  in 
diameter.  .  .  The  Indians  frequently  offer  presents  to  the  Great  Spirit  near 
this  stone,"  etc.  The  party  found  near  the  stone  an  eagle's  feather,  roots  of 
Psoralea  esculenta,  and  willow  sticks  painted  red  ;  they  secured  a  fragment  of 
the  idol  for  their  mineralogical  collection.  At  the  time  of  this  visit  (1823)  there 
was  an  Indian  burying-ground  a  short  distaftice  above — in  sight  from  the  spot — 
if  that  place  can  be  called  a  burying-ground  where  the  bodies  are  not  buried 
m  the  ground  but  scaffolded  in  the  air  ;  a  mode  of  disposition  of  the  dead  which 
might  be  called  hypsitaphy,  in  distinction  from  bathytaphy  or  ordinary  under- 
ground interment.  See  Pike's  remarks  on  Sioux  burial  on  the  21st.  To  reach 
the  sacred  spot,  hallowed  by  association  with  the  deepest  religious  emotions  of 
the  untutored  aboriginal  mind,  Pike  left  Hastings,  where  the  river  was  bridged 


w 


74 


NEWPORT  TO  ST.   PAUL. 


m  -i--' 


Sept.  2ist.     Embarked  at  a  seasonable  hour;  breakfasted 
at  the  Sioux  village  on  the  east  side  [near  St.  Paul,"  capital  of 

by  the  C,  M.  and  St.P.  R.  R.  in  1871  (Act  of  Minn.  Legisl.,  Feb.  7th,  1867),  and 
soon  passed  the  site  of  Nininger,  Dakota  Co.,  a  small  town  built  at  the  lower 
point  of  a  steep  bluff  which  fronts  the  river's  edge  on  the  S.,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
rivuiet  which  serves  as  the  upper  discharge  of  Lake  Rebecca  or  King  1. — in  fact 
the  whole  bottom  on  his  left*is  an  island  2^  m.  long,  extending  from  Hastings 
to  Nininger,  being  cut  off  by  the  slough  of  which  King  1.  is  a  dilation.  On 
the  right,  in  Washington  Co.,  bluffs  front  the  river  for  a  mile  or  mure,  to 
the  lower  opening  of  Boulanger  slough,  which  cuts  off  an  island  2|^  m.  long. 
The  immediate  frontage  of  the  Nininger  bluffs  on  the  river  is  less  than  a  mile, 
for  they  recede  at  the  lower  opening  of  Nininger  slough.  The  river  thus  winds 
from  side  to  side  of  its  bed,  with  alternation  of  bluffs  and  bottom  on  each  side. 
Above  Nininger  slough  the  river  makes  a  great  loop  to  the  left ;  the  whole 
irregular  curve  is  subtended  on  the  right  by  Grey  Cloud  slough,  about  4  m.  long 
direct,  and  longer  by  its  meanders,  thus  cutting  off  Grey  Cloud  isl.,  of  the  same 
length,  and  over  2  m.  wide  in  some  places  ;  town  site  Grey  Cloud,  Washington 
Co.,  on  the  river  bank  on  this  island,  which  also  presents  at  its  northern  end 
a  limestone  rock,  50  to  75  feet  above  low-water  mark,  and  a  mile  or  more  long  ; 
tliis  is  probably  the  Medicine  Wood  of  Forsyth,  1819,  Near  the  middle  of  the 
loop,  on  the  other  side,  is  the  nominis  umbra  site  of  Pine  Bend,  Dakota  Co., 
where  the  river  runs  under  the  hills.  This  loop  was  formerly  called  Detour  de 
Pin  or  des  Pins,  whence  its  modem  names  Pine  bend  and  Pine  turn.  The  hills 
border  the  river  pretty  closely  for  5  m.  further,  to  Merrimac,  opposite  which  is 
an  island  of  the  same  name  ;  within  i|^  m.  of  this  on  the  right  hand,  opposite 
an  island  of  its  own  name,  is  Newport,  Washington  Co. 

"  Newport  to  St.  Paul — to  a  steamboat  Idg.  about  the  foot  of  Wabasha  or 
Robert  st. — is  %yi  m.  by  the  channel,  and  considerably  more  than  halfway  up 
to  Pike's  camp  on  the  island  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  or  the  Minnesota  r. 
•Thus,  though  Pike  calls  to-day's  voyage  "  24  miles,"  it  is  nearer  14.  One  who 
then  swept  around  the  bold  bend  of  the  river  at  St.  Paul  saw  a  germ  of  that 
great  metropolis  in  the  humble  Sioux  village,  though  only  prescience  could  have 
divined  what  time  would  make  of  the  site  above  it.  A  later  account  than  Pike's 
is  given  in  Keating's  Long's  Exp.  of  1823,  pub.  1824,  I.  p.  289 :  "  Passed  an 
Indian  village  consisting  of  ten  or  twelve  huts,  situated  at  a  handsome  turn  on 
the  river,  about  10  miles  below  the  mouth  of  'ne  St.  Peter ;  the  village  is  gener- 
ally known  by  the  name  of  the  Petit  Corbe  .1,  or  Little  Raven,  which  was  the 
appellation  of  the  father  and  grandfather  of  the  present  chief.  He  is  called 
Chetanwakoamene  (the  good  sparrdW-hunter).  The  Indians  designate  this  band 
by  the  name  of  Kapoja,  which  implies  that  they  are  deemed  lighter  and  more 
active  than  the  rest  of  the  nation."  This  was  a  hand  of  Mdewakantonwan 
Sioux  (the  Minowa  Kantong  of  Pike),  for  which,  as  well  as  for  the  celebrated 
chief  himself,  see  notes  beyond.  The  term  which  Keating  renders  Kapoja  is 
now  Kaposia,  as  a  designation  of  the  locality  of  South  Park,  a  place  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river;  but  the  old  Sioux  village  was  on  the  east  bank,  below  French- 


GERMINATION  OF  THE  CAPITAL. 


7S 


111 


Minnesota].     It  consists  of  1 1  lodges,  and  is  situated  at  the 
head  of  an  island  just  below  a  ledge  of  rocks  [Dayton  bluff, 

man's  bar,  in  the  low  ground  formerly  cnlled  by  the  French  Grand  Marais,  ren- 
dered by  Ueltrami  Great  March  (for  Great  Marsh,  II.  p.  197),  and  now  rejoicing 
in  the  epithet  of  Pig's  Eye  marsh  or  lake.  Pig's  Eye  was  the  soubric^uet  of  one 
Peter  Parrant,  a  whisky-seller  who  squatted  on  the  bottom  in  1838,  below 
Carver's  Cave  in  the  Dayton  bluff.  The  whole  region  about  the  mouth  of  St. 
Peter's  r.  had  been  a  Sioux  focus  and  stamping-ground  for  generations  before 
any  of  the  localities  thereabouts  received  names  from  us.  The  curious  origin  of 
the  name  St.  Paul  for  the  present  capital  was  in  this  wise  :  The  limits  of  the 
mililary  reservation  about  Fort  Snelling  were  authoritatively  fixed  in  1839. 
The  whisky-traders,  loafers,  and  squatters  about  the  place  became  so  trouble- 
some that  the  U.  S.  Marshal  of  Wisconsin  was  directed  to  remove  all  such 
intruders,  who  were  given  till  next  spring  to  decamp  ;  and  on  May  6th,  1840, 
the  troops  were  called  out  to  complete  the  eviction  by  the  destruction  of  cabins. 
In  the  words  of  E.  D.  Neill,  Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  II.  Part  2,  1864,  2d  ed.  1881, 
p.  142  :  "  The  squatters  then  retreated  to  the  nearest  point  below  the  military 
reserve,  and  there  they  became  the  inglorious  founder^  of  a  hamlet,  which  was 
shortly  graced  with  the  small  Roman  Catholic  chapel  of  St.  Paul,  the  name  of 
which  is  retained  by  the  thrifty  capital  of  Minnesota,  which  has  emerged  from 
the  groggeries  of  '  certain  lewd  fellows  of  the  baser  sort." "  The  chapel  above 
mentioned  was  built  by  Rev.  Lucian  Galtier,  on  what  is  now  Catholic  block  ;  it 
fronted  on  Bench  street.  It  was  dedicated  Nov.  ist,  1841.  The  first  marriage 
bans  were  those  of  one  Vital  Guerin,  described  as  "a  resident  of  St.  Paul;" 
and  thus  the  priest  named  the  place  as  well  as  the  house,  although  it  wa;;  also 
called  for  a  time  St.  Paul  Landing,  because  sr>me  stores  had  been  put  up  close 
by,  which  caused  steamboats  to  stop  there.  In  1848,  when  Minnesota  acquired 
Territorial  organization,  and  the  capital  was  fixed  at  St.  Paul,  no  such  place 
could  be  found  on  ordinary  maps  ;  it  was  some  obscure  settlement,  supposed  to 
be  somewhere  about  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  r.,  or  in  the  vicinity  of  St. 
Anthony's  falls,  perhaps  at  a  place  known  as  White  Rock,  or  Iminijaska,  where 
some  bluffs  were  more  easily  discernible  than  any  village.  Even  down  to  40 
years  ago,  or  a  little  before  1858,  when  Minnesota  acquired  statehood,  St.  Paul 
had  only  replaced  tepees  with  a  sprinkling  of  log  cabins ;  and  people  scram, 
bled  up  the  bluff  by  digging  their  toes  into  the  ground.  The  site  of  the  city  is 
one  which  would  hardly  have  been  anticipated  as  such  ;  nor  would  the  original 
features  of  the  locality  be  easily  recognized  now  after  all  the  grading  and  terrac- 
ing that  has  been  done  to  convert  the  stubborn  hills  and  intractable  hollows  into 
a  beautiful  city  of  over  190,000  inhabitants.  But  all  this  was  to  be,  and  is  well 
worth  all  that  it  cost.  Among  the  natural  features  which  should  be  noted 
in  this  connection,  especially  as  they  have  given  rise  to  conflicting  historical 
statements,  are  Carver's  Great  Cave  in  Dayton's  bluff,  and  Nicollet's  New 
(Fountain)  Cave,  halfway  thence  to  Fort  Snelling  ;  but  for  these,  as  well  as  for 
a  third  cave  close  to  Carver's,  see  a  note  beyond,  at  date  of  Apr.  12th,  1806, 
when  Pike's  text  brings  the  matter  up. 


|M! 


■yf 


76 


J.  B.  FARIBAULT— PIKE'S  ISLAND. 


in  the  city].  The  village  was  evacuated  at  this  time,  all  the 
Indian  shaving  gone  out  to  the  lands  to  gather  fols  avoin 
[folk  avoine,  wild  rice :  see  note  ",  page  39].  About  two 
miles  above,  saw  three  bears  swimming  over  the  river,  but 
at  too  great  a  distance  for  us  to  have  killed  them ;  they 
made  the  shore  before  I  could  come  up  with  them.  Passed 
a  camp  of  Sioux,  of  four  lodges,  in  which  I  saw  only  one 
man,  whose  name  was  Black  Soldier.  The  garrulity  of  the 
women  astonished  me,  for  at  the  other  camps  they  never 
opened  their  lips ;  but  here  they  flocked  around  us  with  all 
their  tongues  going  at  the  same  time.  The  cause  of  this 
freedom  must  have  been  the  absence  of  their  lords  and 
masters.  Passed  the  encampment  of  Mr.  Ferrebault  [Fari- 
bault"], who  had  broken  his  peroque  and  had  encamped  on 
the  west  side  of  the  river,  about  three  miles  below  St. 
Peters  [under  the  bluff  below  Mendota].  We  made  our  en- 
campment on  the  N.  E.  point  of  the  big  [Pike's]  island 
opposite  [Fort  Snelling  or]  St.  Peters."     Distance  24  miles. 

'*Jean  Baptiste  Faribault,  b,  Berthier,  Lower  Canada,  1774,  d.  Faribault, 
Minn.,  Aug.  20th,  i860,  being  at  the  time  the  oldest  white  resident  of  the  pres- 
ent .State.  Jean  Baptiste  was  the  youngest  one  of  10  children  of  Bartholomew 
(who  was  b.  in  Paris  and  came  to  Canada  in  1754);  he  was  in  business  in 
Quebec  1790-97,  at  the  latter  date  entered  the  employ  of  J.  J.  Astor  as  an  agent 
of  the  N.  W,  Co.,  and  was  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade  at  various  points  in  the 
Mississippi  region  for  about  50  years,  for  the  most  part  on  his  own  account. 
One  of  the  posts  he  established  was  at  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota  r.,  where 
Pike  found  him.  In  1814  he  married  a  half-breed  daughter  of  Major  Hause 
(then  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs),  by  whom  he  had  eight  children.  His 
Indian  name  was  Chahpahsintay,  meaning  Beaver  Tail.  His  eldest  son,  Alex- 
ander, founded  the  present  town  of  Faribault,  Minn.  Mr.  J.  B.  Faribault 
"espoused  the  cause  of  the  U.  S.  during  the  war  of  1812,  and  lost  many  thou- 
sand dollars  thereby,  as  well  as  narrowly  escaping  with  his  life  on  several  occa- 
sions. He  labored  all  his  life  to  benefit  the  red  man,  teach  him  agriculture  and 
the  arts  of  industry,  and  protect  his  interests.  He  had  an  unbounded  influence 
over  them  ;  his  advice  was  never  disregarded.  He  was  prominent  at  all  treaties, 
and  rendered  the  U.  S.  many  valuable  services,"  says  J.  F.  Williams,  Minn. 
Hist.  Coll.,  I.  2d  ed.  1872,  p.  377:  see  also  Hid.,  p.  468.  An  extended 
memoir  of  Faribault,  by  General  H.  H.  Sibley,  occupies  pp.  168-79  °f  ^^'• 
of  the  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  1874. 

'*  The  history  of  the  discovery  of  St.  Peter's  r.,  off  the  mouth  of  which  Pike 
is  now  camped,  is  involved  in  some  obscurity,  which  modern  research  has  not 


HISTORY  OF  THE   MINNESOTA  RIVER. 


11 


The  Mississippi  became  so  very  narrow  this  day,  that  I 
once  crossed  in  my  batteaux  with  forty  strokes  of  my  oars. 
The  water  of  the  Mississippi,  since  we  passed  Lake  Pepin, 
has  been  remarkably  red  ;  and  where  it  is  deep,  appears  as 


•Hi 


wholly  cleared  up,  though  the  main  facts  have  probably  been  certified,  (i)  It 
has  been  conceded  since  Carver's  time  that  Hennepin  missed  the  river.  Dis- 
covery has  not  been  traced  back  of  Lesueur's  time.  Lesueur  was  first  on  the 
Mississippi  hereabouts  in  1683  ;  next  in  1695,  when  he  built  on  Pclee  isl.,  just 
below  the  St.  Croix  ;  and  again  in  1700 ;  both  these  rivers  are  noted  in  the 
treatise  of  Nicolas  Perrot,  and  before  1700  the  river  of  St.  Pierre  had  been  so 
named.  (2)  Charlevoix's  account,  Hist.  N.  Fr.,  Paris,  1744,  IV.  pp.  165,  166,  is 
in  substance  :  In  1700  Lesueur,  sent  by  D'Iberville  to  establish  himself  in  the 
Sioux  country  and  take  possession  of  a  copper-mine  que  U  Sutiir  y  avait  d^cou- 
verte,  had  already  discovered  there,  some  time  before ;  ascended  St.  Peter  40 
leagues  to  Riviire  Verte  (now  Blue  Earth  r.)  which  comes  in  on  the  left  hand  as 
you  go  up ;  ascended  this  Green  r,  i  league ;  built  a  fort  and  wintered  there, 
1700-1  ;  in  April,  "  1702,"  for  which  read  1701,  went  up  Green  r.  ^  league  to 
his  mine  and  in  22  days  got  out  over  30,000  lbs.  of  ore,  of  which  4,000  selected 
lbs.  were  sent  to  France  ;  there  was  a  mountain  of  this  mineral  10  leagues  long, 
etc.  (3)  The  Amer.  Philos.  Society's  copy  of  the  MS.  of  Benard  de  la  Harpe  is 
carefully  digested  by  Keating  in  Long's  Exp.,  I.  pp.  317-322.  This  MS.  is  en- 
titled :  "  Journal  historique  concernant  I'etablissement  des  Fran9ais  k  la  Louisi- 
anne,  tire  des  mdmoires  de  Messrs.  d'Iberville  et  de  Bienville,  etc.,  par  M.  Be- 
nard de  la  Harpe."  The  original  of  this  copy  was  in  the  hands  of  Dr.  Sibley, 
who  certifies  to  the  correctness  of  the  copy  in  a  note  annexed,  dated  Natchi- 
toches, Oct.  29th,  1805.  Some  of  the  contents  of  this  MS.  are  :  (n)  Lesueur  and 
d'Iberville,  with  30  hands,  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  Dec,  1699. 
Lesueur  was  sent  there  by  M.  I'Huillier,  fermier  gdneral,  under  orders  to  estab- 
lish himself  at  a  place  near  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  where  he  had  previously 
discovered  a  green  ore,  ».  e.,  in  1695.  The  substance  of  the  1695  discovery  is  : 
Lesueur  built  a  fort  on  an  island  (Isle  Pel^<*,  now  Prairie  isl.)  in  the  Mississippi 
over  200  m.  above  the  Illinois,  by  order  of  Count  Frontenac  ;  and  the  same  year 
he  went  to  Montreal  with  the  Chippewa  chief  Chingouab^  and  the  Sioux  chief 
Tioscate,  the  latter  the  first  of  his  nation  that  ever  was  in  Canada,  and  received 
very  kindly  by  the  authorities  in  view  of  what  they  hoped  to  make  out  of  his 
country.  With  this  Sioux  chief  Lesueur  had  intended  to  reascend  the  Missis- 
sippi in  1696  ;  but  the  former  died  at  Montreal  after  33  days'  illness.  Lesueur, 
thus  released  from  an  obligation  to  go  back  with  the  chief  to  the  country  where 
he  had  discovered  the  ore,  determined  to  go  to  France  to  ask  leave  to  open 
mines  ;  this  voyage  he  made,  and  had  his  permit  in  1697.  June,  1697,  he  em- 
barked at  La  Rochelle  for  Canada ;  was  captured  by  the  British  on  the  New- 
foundland banks  and  carried  to  Portsmouth  ;  after  peace,  returned  to  Paris  for 
a  new  commission,  which  was  issued  to  him  in  1698  ;  went  to  Canada  with  this ; 
various  obstacles  threw  him  back  to  Europe  ;  and  meanwhile  part  of  the  men 


i 


I'-l-: 


79 


HISTORY  OF  THE   MINNESOTA   RIVER. 


black  as  ink.  The  waters  of  the  St.  Croix  and  St.  Peters 
appear  blue  and  clear,  for  a  considerable  distance  below  their 
confluence. 

I  observed  a  white  flag  on  shore  to-day,  and  on  landing, 


whom  he  had  left  in  charge  in  1695  abandoned  their  posts  and  proceeded  to 
Montreal.  Thus  operations  on  the  mines  were  suspended  from  1695  to  1700, 
for  Lesueur  and  d'Iberville,  with  their  30  workmen,  as  we  have  seen,  only 
reached  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  in  Dec,  1699.  (i)  The  MS.  we  are  follow- 
ing states,  under  date  of  Feb.  loth,  170a,  that  Lesueur  was  that  day  come  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  with  aooo  quintaux  of  blue  and  green  earth.  This 
he  certainly  had  got  on  his  tour  of  Dec,  1690-Feb.,  1702,  from  and  back  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  and  he  had  got  it  from  the  mine  he  opened  and 
worked  on  Riviire  Verte  or  Blue  Earth  r.,  the  principal  branch  of  St.  rctcr's. 
The  MS.  contains  a  narrative  of  this  tour  from  July  lath  to  Dec.  13th,  1700. 
It  appears  that  Lesueur  moved  as  follows :  July  13th,  mouth  of  the  Missouri ; 
Sept.  1st,  mouth  of  the  Wisconsin  ;  Sept.  14th,  mouth  of  the  Chippewa  (on  one 
of  whose  branches  he  had  found  a  6olb.  niass  of  copper  during  his  previous 
journey) ;  same  day.  Lake  Pepin,  so  designated  in  the  MS. ;  16th,  passed  I.a 
Croix  r.,  so  called  from  a  Frenchman  wrecked  there  ;  19th,  entered  St.  I'eter's 
r.;  Oct.  1st  had  ascended  this  for  44^  leagues,  and  then  entered  Hlue  r.,  no 
called  for  the  color  of  the  earth  on  its  banks ;  started  an  establishment  at  or 
more  probably  near  the  mouth  of  Blue  r.,  at  what  the  MS.  gives  as  lat.  44°  13' 
N.;  Oct.  14th,  finished  the  works,  which  were  named  Fort  L'lluillier ;  Oct. 
26lh,  went  to  the  mine  with  three  canoes,  which  he  loaded  with  colored  earth 
taken  from  mountains  near  which  were  mines  of  copper,  samples  of  wliich 
L'Huillier  had  assayed  at  Paris  in  1696.  Lesueur  wintered  there,  1700-1,  and, 
as  we  have  seen,  was  back  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  Feb.  loth,  1702. 
(()  From  these  historical  data  Keating  in  Long,  1823,  I.  p.  320,  infers  that  St. 
Peter's  and  the  Blue  (Blue  Earth)  rivers  were  those  streams  which  Lesueur  had 
ascended  in  1695,  which  date  is  consequently  assigned  to  the  discovery,  without 
reference  back  to  1683.  This  inference  is  made  "  from  the  circumstance  that 
they  are  mentioned  as  well  known,  and  not  as  recently  discovered  ;  and  more 
especially  from  the  observation  of  la  Harpe,  that  the  eastern  Sioux  having  com- 
plained of  the  situation  of  the  fort  [L'Huillier],  which  they  would  have  wished  to 
see  at  the  confluence  of  llie  St.  Peter  and  Mississippi,  M.  le  Sueur  endeavoured 
to  reconcile  them  to  it.  '  He  had  foreseen,'  says  la  Harpe,  '  that  an  establish- 
ment on  the  Blue  river  would  not  be  agreeable  to  the  eastern  Sioux,  who  are 
the  rulers  of  all  the  other  Sioux,  because  they  were  the  first  with  whom  the 
French  traded,  and  whom  they  provided  with  guns;  nevertheless,  as  this 
undertaking  had  not  been  commenced  with  the  sole  view  of  trading  for 
beavers,  but  in  order  to  become  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  quality  of 
the  various  mines  wAicA  Ae  had  previously  discovered  there  [italics  Keating's], 
he  replied  to  the  natives  that  he  was  sorry  he  had  not  been  made  sooner 
acquainted  with  their  wishes,  &c,  but  that  the  advanced  state  of  the  season 


HISTORY  OF  THE   MINNESOTA  RIVER. 


79 


discovered  it  to  be  white  silk;  it  was  suspended  over  a 
scaffold,  on  which  were  laid  four  dead  bodies,  two  inclosed 
in  boards,  and  two  in  bark.  They  were  wrapped  up  in 
blankets,  which  appeared  to  be  quite  new.    They  were  the 

prevented  his  returning  to  the  mouth  of  the  river.'  No  mention  is  made 
in  this  narrative  of  the  stream  being  obstructed  with  ice,  a  circumstance  which, 
hnd  it  really  occurred,  would,  we  think,  have  been  recorded  by  de  la  Ilarpe,  who 
ai>|)cars  to  have  been  a  careful  and  a  curious  observer,  and  who  undoubtedly 
saw  1«  Sueur's  original  narrative."  (4)  On  the  foregoing  data  Nicollet,  Rep. 
1843,  p.  18,  has  SOI  judicious  remarks  in  fixing  Lesucur's  locality  with  pre- 
cision; "On  the  '  bunk  of  the  Mankato  [Green,  Blue,  or  Blue  Earth  r.], 
six  miles  from  its  mouth,  in  a  rocky  blulT  composed  of  sandstone  and  limestone, 
arc  found  cavities  in  which  the  famed  blue  or  green  earth,  used  by  the  Sioux  as 
their  principal  pigment,  is  obtained.  This  material  is  nearly  exhausted,  and  it 
not  likely  that  this  is  the  spot  where  a  Mr.  Lesueur  (who  is  mentioned  in  the 
Narrative  of  Major  Long's  Second  Expedition,  as  also  by  Mr,  Featherstonhaugh) 
could,  in  his  third  voyage,  during  the  year  1700,  have  collected  his  4000  pounds 
uf  copper  earth  sent  by  him  to  France.  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  Lesueur's 
location  is  on  the  river  to  which  I  have  ailfixed  his  name,  and  which  empties  into 
the  Mankato  three-quarters  of  a  league  above  Fort  L'lluillier,  built  by  him  and 
where  he  spent  a  winter.  This  location  corresponds  precisely  with  that 
given  by  Charlevoix,  whilst  it  is  totally  inapplicable  to  the  former.  Here 
the  blue  earth  is  abundant  in  the  steep  and  elevated  hills  at  tlie  mouth 
of  this  river,  which  hills  form  a  broken  country  on  the  right  side  of  the 
Mankato.  Mr.  [J,  C]  Fremont  and  myself  have  verified  this  fact :  he,  during 
his  visit  to  Lesueur  river;  and  I,  upon  the  locality  designated  by  Mr.  Feath- 
erstonhaugh, where  the  Ndakotahs  formerly  assembled  in  great  numbers 
to  collect  it,  but  to  which  they  now  seldom  resort,  as  it  is  comparatively 
scarce— at  least  so  I  was  informed  by  Sleepy-eye,  the  chief  of  the  Sissitons, 
who  accompanied  me  during  this  excursion."  (5)  Featherstonhaugh's  remarks, 
Canoe  Voyage,  etc.,  I.  p.  280  and  p.  304,  seem  to  me  less  judiciovis  than  likely 
to  make  tlie  judicious  grieve  ;  in  fine,  they  are  singularly  obtuse  to  have  come 
from  so  British  a  man  and  so  clever  a  story-teller.  He  heads  a  page  in  caps, 
"The  Copper-mine,  a  Fable  ;  "  he  has  in  text,  "  finding  the  copper-mine  to 
be  a  fable";  again:  "  that  either  M.  le  Sueur's  green  cupreous  earth  had  not 
corresponded  to  the  expectations  he  had  raised,  or  that  the  whole  account  of  it 
was  to  be  classed  with  Baron  Lahontan's  "  fables,  etc.  This  sort  of  talk  would 
befog  the  whole  subject,  were  it  not  obvious  that  it  has  no  bearing  whatever 
upon  the  historico-geographical  case  we  are  discussing.  The  question  is  where 
Lesueur  went,  and  when  he  got  there — not  at  all  what  he  found  there.  It  is 
obtuse,  I  say,  because  unintentionally  misleading,  for  F'gh  to  say  that,  when  he 
reached  the  bluff  whence  the  pigment  had  been  taken,  "  Le  Sueur's  story  lost 
all  credit  with  me,  for  I  instantly  saw  that  it  was  nothing  but  a  continuation  of 
the  seam  which  divided  the  sandstone  from  the  limestone  .   .    .   containing 


!ir,l 


111 

IS: 


80 


HISTORY  OF  THE  MINNESOTA  RIVER, 


bodies,  I  was  informed,  of  two  Sioux  women  who  had  lived 
with  two  Frenchmen,  one  of  their  children,  and  some  other 
relative;  two  of  whom  died  at  St.  Peters  and  two  at  St. 
Croix,  but  were  brought  here  to  be  deposited  upon  this 

a  silicate  of  iron  of  a  blueish-green  color."    In  the  first  place,  F'gh  was  not  at 
exactly  the  right  spot,  which  Nicollet  has  pointed  out.     Secondly,  though  Le- 
sueur  should  have  been  mistaken  or  mendacious  about  any  copper-mine  being 
in  that  region — though  he  should  not  have  collected  30,000  lbs.  of  ore  in  22 
days,  or  even  a  gunny-sack  full  of  anything  in  a  year — though  the  mountains 
should  shrink  to  bluffs,  and  the  whole  commercial  features  of  the  case  turn  into 
the  physiognomy  of  the  wild-cat — that  would  not  aifect  the  historical  and  geo- 
graphical facts,  viz. :  Lesueur  ascended  the  St.  Peter's  to  the  Mankato,  and  this 
as  far  at  least  as  its  first  branch,  thus  exploring  both  these  rivers  in  1700,    Item, 
he  had  been  to  if  not  also  up  the  river  of  St.  Pierre  in  1695  ;  and  it  had  been 
known  since  his  first  voyage  in  1683.    (6)  As  to  the  name  Riviire  St.  Pierre,  or 
de  St.  Pierre,  which  we  have  translated  St.  Peter,  or  St.  Peter's  r.,  the  former 
obscurity  of  its  origin  has,  I  think,  been  almost  entirely  cleared  up.     Keating's 
Long,  1824,  I.  p.  322,  has  :  "We  have  sought  in  vain  for  the  origin  of  the 
name  ;  we  can  find  no  notice  of  it ;  it  appears  to  us  at  present  not  unlikely  that 
the  name  may  have  been  given  by  le  Sueur  in  1795  [slip  for  1695],  in  honor  of 
M.  de  St.  Pierre  Repantigni,  to  whom  La  Hontan  incidentally  alludes  (L  p.  136) 
as  being  in  Canada  in  1789  [«.  e.,  1689].     This  person  may  have  accompanied 
le   Sueur  on  his  expedition."     Keating  does  not  cite  in  this  connection  the 
remark  of  Carver,  ed.  1796,  p.  35  :    "Here  [at  Lake  Pepin]  I  discovered  the 
ruins  of  a  French  factory,  where  it  is  said  Captain  St.  Pierre  resided,  and  car- 
ried on  a  very  great  trade  with  the  Naudowessies  [Sioux],  before  the  reduction 
of  Canada."     This  person  was  Jacques  Le  Gardeur  St.  Pierre,  who  in  1737 
commanded  the  fort   on   Lake   Pepin  (Fort    Beauharnois).      One    Fort  St. 
Pierre  was  built  at  Rainy  1.  late  in  1731;  J.  Le  G.  St.  Pierre  was  there  in 
1751 :  for  extended  notice  of  him,  see  Neill,  Macalester  Coll.  Cont.,  No.  4, 
1890,  pp.  136-40.     His  father  was  Captain  Paul  St.  Pierre,  who  was  sent  to 
the  French  post  (Maison  Franfoise)  at  La  Pointe  (Chaquamegon  bay)  in  1718. 
Nicollet,  Rep.  1843,  p.  68,  cites  Carver,  and  states:  "  I  have  no  hesitation  in 
assigning  its  [the  name's]  origin  to  a  Canadian  by  the  name  of  De  St.  Pierre, 
who  resided  for  a  long  time  thereabouts."    The  name  appears  for  the  first  time 
in  Perrot's  report,  of  the  date  1689,  which  is  also  the  most  probable  date  of 
naming  the  St.  Croix  r.  and  Lake  Pepin.     The  only  question  left  is,  whether 
the  river  was  not  named  to  compliment  Pierre  Lesueur  himself.     Whoever  the 
St.  Pierre  whose  name  the  river  bears  may  prove  to  be,  the  name  is  a  personal 
one,  which  we  should  not  have  translated  into  English  St.  Peter  ;  for  it  certainly 
has  nothing  to  do  with  the  legendary  saint  so  styled,  whose  career  is  connected 
with  the  crowing  of  cocks  three  times  more  than  with  the  course  of  any  river. 
Had  the  stream  been  named  by  some  priest  for  such  a  sadly  overworked  patron 
as  the  apocryphal  first  Bishop  of  Rome,  we  should  have  heard  all  about  it  in  the 


HISTORY  OF  THE   MINNESOTA  RIVER. 


8x 


scaffold  together.  This  is  the  manner  of  Sioux  burial  when 
persons  die  a  natural  death  ;  but  when  they  are  killed  they 
suffer  them  to  lie  unburied.  This  circumstance  brought  to 
my  recollection  the  bones  of  a  man  I  found  on  the  hills 
below  the  St.  Croix ;  the  jaw  bone  I  brought  on  board.  He 
must  have  been  killed  on  that  spot. 

Jesuit  Relations  or  elsewhere.     (7)  The  suggestion  that  the  name  St,  Pierre  is  a 
perversion  of  sans  pier  res  ("without  stones"),  may  be  dismissed  as  too  good  to 
be  true  ;  for  it  is  a  settled  principle  of  sound  philology  that  the  easiest  etymolo- 
gies are  the  most  likely  to  have  been  invented  to  fit  the  case,  ex  post- facto.     (8)  As 
to  native  names,  Nicollet  says,  /.  c:  "  The  name  which  the  Sioux  give  to  the  St. 
Peter's  river  is  Mini-sotah  ;  and  to  St.  Peter's,  as  a  station  [Mendota],  Mdote- 
mini-sotah.    The  adjective  sotah  is  of  different  translation.      The  Canadians 
translate  it  by  a  pretty  equivalent  French  word,  3rt»«i//(^— perhaps  most  properly 
rendered  into  English  by  blear;  as,  for  instance,  mitii  sotah,  blear  water,  or 
the  entrance  of  blear  water.     I  have  entered  into  this  explanation,  because  the 
word  sotah  really  means  neither  clear  nor  turbid,  as  some  authors  have  asserted; 
its  true  meaning  being  readily  found  in  the  Sioux  expression  ishta-soiah,  blear- 
eyed.   .   .   The  Chippeways  are  more  accurate  ;  by  them,  the  St.  Peter's  river 
[is  called]  Ashkibogi-sibi,  the  Green  Leaf  river."    It  occurs  to  me  that  the  dis- 
tinction Nicollet  draws  would  correspond  to  translucent,  as  distinguished  on  the 
one  hand  from  colorless  or  transparent  water,  and  on  the  other  from  opaque  or 
turbid  water.     I  may  also  refer  to  the  old  medical  term,  gutta  serena,  for  form- 
ing cataract  of  the  eye,  when  clear  vision  is  obscured  by  a  degree  of  opacity 
that  does  not  entirely  exclude  light.     As  applied  to  water,  Sioux  sotah  may  be 
about  equivalent  to  Greek  y^w/ciJf,   Latin  ^/a«^«j,  variously  rendered  "  gray," 
"bluish-green,"  etc.,  and  Nicollet's  "  blear-eyed  "  be  equivalent  to  what  was 
ztiWtA  glaucoma  {ylaiiKUfia) .     Notice  what  Pike  says  above  of  the  color  of  the 
water  ;  but  it  must  be  added  that,    when  he  speaks   of  the   Mississippi   as 
"  remarkably  red,"  we  must    understand  only  a   reddish-yellow   hue    of    its 
shoal  portions,  imparted  tay  its  sands ;  and  by  "  black  as  ink,"  only  the  darker 
color  of  deeper  places  where  the  sands  do  not  show  through.     The  name  Mini- 
sota  has  a  number  of  variants  :  for  example,  Carver,  who  wintered  on  it  Nov., 
1766-Apr.,  1767,  has  "  the  River  St.  Pierre,  called  by  the  natives  the  Wadda- 
pawmenesotor";  with  which  compare  Watapan  Menesota    of  Long,    Watpi- 
menisothe  of  Beltrami,  and   the  title  of  Feath;;rstonhaugh's    diverting   book, 
"  .\  Canoe  Voyage  up  the  Minnay  Sotor,"etc.     It  has  become  fixed  of  late 
years,  since  an  Act  of  Congress,  approved  June  19th,  1852  (Stat,  at  Large,  X.  p. 
147),  decreed  that  the  noble  river  should  bear  the  name  of  the  State  through 
which  it  flows,    (g)  The  Minnesota  r.  appears  on  various  old  maps  of  Louisiana 
(not  on  Hennepin's,  1683).     Franquelin's,  1688,  traces  it  without  any  name,  but 
letters  it  with  the  name  of  the  Indians,  "  Les  Mascoutens  Nadouescioux,"  «.  e,, 
Sioux  of  the  Prairie,  Gens  du  Large  of  the  French,  collectively,  as  distinguished 
from  Gens  du  Lac.     De  L'Isle's  map,  1703,  has  "  R.  St.  Pierre." 


CHAPTER  II. 

ITINERARY,  CONTINUED  :  ST.  PAUL  TO    LEECH   LAKE,  SEP- 
TEMBER  22D,  18OS-JANUARV  3 1  ST,  1806. 

SUNDAY,  Sept.  22d.  Employed  in  the  morning 
measuring  the  river.  About  three  o'clock  Mr.  Frazer 
and  his  peroques  arrived;  and  in  three  hours  after  Petit 
Corbeau,  at  the  head  of  his  band,  arrived  with  150  warriors. 
They  ascended  the  hill  in  the  point  between  the  Missis- 
sippi and  St.  Peters,  and  gave  us  a  salute,  a  la  mode  savage, 
with  balls ;  after  which  we  settled  affairs  for  the  council 
next  day.  Mr.  Frazer  and  myself  took  a  bark  canoe,  and 
went  up  to  the  village,  in  order  to  see  Mr.  Cameron.  We 
ascended  the  St.  Peters  to  the  village,  and  found  his  camp. 
He  engaged  to  be  at  the  council  the  next  day,  and  promised 
to  let  me  have  his  barge.  The  Sioux  had  marched  on  a  war 
excursion ;  but,  hearing  by  express  of  my  arrival,  they 
returned  by  land.  We  were  treated  very  hospitably,  and 
hallooed  after  to  go  into  every  lodge  to  eat.  Returned  to 
our  camp  about  eleven  o'clock,  and  found  the  Sioux  and  my 
men  peaceably  encamped.     No  current  in  the  river.' 

'  T!ie  village  which  Pike  visited  is  marked  on  his  map  on  the  west,  upper,  or 
left  bank  of  the  Minnesota  r.,  which  here  runs  little  E.  of  N.  into  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  hill  on  the  point  whence  the  Sioux  saluted  him  so  savagely  was  llie 
scene  of  many  a  more  warlike  demonstration  in  after-years  ;  for  here  was  built 
Fort  St.  Anthony,  later  known  as  Fort  Snelling,  one  of  the  most  important  nnJ 
permanent  military  establishments  in  the  United  States,  and  for  nearly  half 
a  century  the  most  notable  place  on  the  Mississippi  above  Prairie  du  Chien.  It 
was  erected  on  the  land  which  Pike  secured  by  the  transaction  his  text  is  about 
to  describe,  and  which  extended  thence  up  the  river  to  include  the  falls  of  St. 
Anthony,  and  thus  the  site  of  the  present  great  city  of  Minneapolis,  with  St. 
Paul  the  twin  metropolis  of  the  Northwest.  The  location  of  Fort  Snelling  is  in 
Nicollet's  opinion  "the  finest  site  on  the  Mississippi  river";  and  I  should  be 
the  last  to  dissent  from  this  judgment,  after  my  enjoyable  visit  to  the  fort  in 
1873,  at  the  invitation  of  General  Alexander.     The  bluff  headland  is  about  105 

81 


SIOUX  COUNCIL — FORT  SNELLING. 


83 


Sept.  23d.  Prepared  for  the  council,  which  we  com- 
menced about  twelve  o'clock.  I  had  a  bower  or  shade,  made 
of  my  sails,  on  the  beach,  into  which  only  my  gentlemen 
(the  traders)  and  the  chiefs  entered.  I  then  addressed  them 
in  a  speech,  which,  though  long  and  touching  on  many 
points,  had  for  its  principal  object  the  granting  of  land  at 
this  place,  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  St.  Croix  [river],  and 
making  peace  with  the  Chipeways.  I  was  replied  to  by  Le 
Fils  de  Pinchow,  Le  Petit  Corbeau,  and  I'Original  Leve. 
They  gave  me  the  land  required,  about  icx),ooo  acres,  equal 
to  $2CK),ooo,  and  promised  me  a  safe  passport  for  myself 
and  any  [Chippewa]  chiefs  I  might  bring  down  ;  but  spoke 
doubtfully  with  respect  to  the  peace.  I  gave  them  presents 
to  the  amount  of  about  $200,  and  as  soon  as  the  council  was 

feet  above  the  water  ;  the  two  rivers  separated  by  this  rocky  point  are  respect- 
ively over  300  and  nearly  600  feet  broad.  The  height  of  Pilot  Knob,  across 
the  Minnesota  r.,  is  about  250  feet.  The  plateau  on  the  point  of  which  the  fort 
is  situated  stretches  indefinitely  S.  W. ;  8  m.  direct  N.  W.  are  Minneapolis  and  the 
falls.  The  Mississippi  receives  the  Minnesota  at  the  point  of  greatest  convexity 
of  a  deep  bend  to  the  S.,  duplicating  that  bend  to  the  N.  on  which  St.  Paul  is 
situated,  the  two  together  forming  quite  a  figure  of  3-  Nothing  came  of  Pike's 
recommendation  of  this  site  for  a  military  post  till  a  report  to  the  same  effect 
was  made  by  Major  Long,  after  his  expedition  of  1817,  during  which  he  reached 
the  place  at  2  p.  m.,  Wednesday,  July  i6th.  On  Feb.  loth,  1819,  the  Secretary 
of  War,  John  C.  Calhoun,  ordered  the  5th  infantry  to  proceed  to  the  Missis- 
sippi and  establish  regimental  headqua. lers  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Petei's  r.  A 
detachment  of  troops,  mustering  98  rank  and  file,  under  Colonel  Henry  Leaven- 
worth, who  had  become  lieutenant-colonel  of  that  regiment  Feb.  loth,  1818, 
was  first  cantoned  at  New  Hope,  near  Mendota,  Sept.  24th,  1819,  and  prepar- 
ations were  begun  at  once  for  a  permansnt  structure.  The  winter  of  1819-20 
was  disastrous  from  scurvy.  On  May  5th,  1820,  camp  was  shifted  to  a  place 
near  a  spring,  above  the  graveyard,  and  was  thereupon  named  Camp  Coldwater. 
In  the  spring  of  1820  Jean  Baptiste  Faribault  located  himself  in  the  vicinity  ; 
Governor  Lewis  Cass  .:ame  from  his  exploration  of  the  upper  Mississippi  during 
the  summer,  and  Lawrence  Taliaferro's  Indian  agency  was  established  as  Camp 
St.  Peter's.  As  usual,  the  colonel  commanding  and  the  Indian  agent  clashed, 
notably  in  the  matters  of  medals  and  whisky.  In  August,  1820,  Colonel  Josiah 
Snelling,  who  had  become  colonel  of  the  regiment  June  1st,  1819,  arrived  and 
relieved  Colonel  Leavenworth  of  the  command.  He  determined  to  build  on 
the  point  originally  selected  by  Pike.  The  corner-stone  of  Fort  St.  Anthony  is 
supposed  to  have  been  laid  Sept.  loth,  1820  ;  and  the  building  was  so  far  for- 
ward in  the  autumn  of  1822  that  the  troops  nroved  in,  though  it  was  not  com- 


■M^ 


IP., 

HHi 


84 


SIOUX  COUNCIL — FORT  SNELLING. 


over,  I  allowed  the  traders  to  present  them  with  some 
liquor,  which,  with  what  I  myself  gave,  was  equal  to  60 
gallons.  In  one  half-hour  they  were  all  embarked  for  their 
respective  villages. 

The  chiefs  in  the  council  were :  Le  Petit  Corbeau,  who 
signed  the  grant;  Le  Fils  de  Pinchow,  who  also  signed; 
Le  Grand  Partisan ;  Le  Original  Leve,  war-chief ;  gave  him 
my  father's  [General  Wilkinson's]  tomahawk,  etc.;  Le  Demi 
Douzen,  war-chief ;  Le  Beccasse ;  Le  Boeuf  que  Marche. 

It  was  somewhat  difficult  to  get  them  to  sign  the  grant,  as 
they  conceived  their  word  of  honor  should  be  taken  for  the 
grant  without  any  mark ;  but  I  convinced  then  it  was  not  on 
their  account,  but  my  own,  that  I  wished  them  to  sign  it.' 

pleted.  It  is  traditional  that  a  tree  on  which  Pike  had  cut  his  name  was 
ordered  to  be  spared  in  the  process  of  construction  ;  but,  if  so,  it  soon  dis- 
appeared. On  May  loth,  1823,  the  first  steamboat,  the  Virginia,  reached  the 
fort.  It  brought  among  other  notables  the  Chevalier  Beltrami.  On  July  3d, 
1823,  Major  Long  arrived,  en  route  to  his  exploration  of  St.  Peter's  r.  In  1824 
General  Winfield  Scott  visited  the  fort  on  a  tour  of  inspection.  It  does  not 
appear  to  have  struck  anybody  before  that  the  name  of  a  pro*'  .t  "inal  saint  of 
the  Prince  of  Peace  was  absurdly  inapplicable  to  any  military  establishment. 
General  Scott  very  sensibly  reported  that  the  name  was  "  foreign  to  all  our 
associations,"  besides  being  "  geographically  incorrect,"  and  recommended  the 
post  to  be  named  Fort  Snelling,  in  well-deserved  compliment  to  the  distin- 
guished officer  who  had  built  it.  The  story  of  Fort  Snelling,  from  its  inception 
to  the  end  of  all  Indian  collisions,  is  an  integral  and  very  prominent  part  of  the 
history  of  Minnesota  ;  it  is  an  honorable  record,  of  which  citizens  and  soldiery 
may  be  equally  proud — one  replete  with  stirring  scenes  and  thrilling  episodes, 
which  in  the  lapse  of  years  tradition  has  delighted  to  set  in  all  the  glamour  of 
romance.  But  the  most  sober  histc.  aiis  have  found  a  wealth  of  material  in 
the  stem  actualities  of  Fort  Snelling.  The  facts  in  the  case  need  no 
embellishment.  The  following  are  some  of  the  many  references  that  could  be 
given  to  the  early  history  of  Fort  Snelling :  Occurrences  in  and  around  Furt 
Snelling  from  1819  to  1840,  E.  D.  Neill,  M.  H.  C,  II.  Part  2,  1864;  2d  ed. 
1S81,  pp.  102-42.  Early  Days  at  Fort  Snelling,  Anon.,  M.  H.  C,  I.  Part  5, 
1856;  2d  ed.  1872,  pp.  420-438  (many  inaccuracies  in  dates,  etc.).  Running 
the  Gauntlet,  Md.,  pp.  439-56,  Anon.,  believed  to  be  by  W.  J.  Snelling, 
son  of  Josiah  Snelling.  Reminiscences  of  Mrs.  Ann  Adams,  1821-29,  M.  H. 
C,  VI.  Part  2, 1891,  pp.  93-112.  Autobiography  of  Maj.  Lawrence  Taliaferro, 
written  in  1864,  M.  H.  C,  VI.  Part  2,  pp.  189-255  (specially  interesting, 
as  he  was  Indian  agent,  1819-40). 
'  Pike's  speech  at  this  memorable  conference,  the  treaty  itself,  and  a  long 


ipppipqi 


ii-:g,j--       I 


THE   CHIEFS  WHO  GRANTED   THE   LAND. 


85 


Sept.  24th.  In  the  morning  I  discovered  that  my  flag 
was  missing  from  my  boat.  Being  in  doubt  whether  it  had 
been  stolen  by  the  Indians,  or  had  fallen  overboard  and 
floated  away,  I  sent  for  my  friend,  Original  Leve,  and 
sufficiently  evinced  to  him,  by  the  vehemence  of  my  action, 

Setter  which  Pike  addressed  to  Wilkinson  in  this  connection  on  the  23d,  24th, 
ami  25tii,  formed  Docs.  Nos.  4  and  5  of  the  App.  to  Part  i  of  the  orig.  ed. 
These  are  given  in  full  beyond,  Chap.  V.  Arts.  4,  5,  and  6,  where  the  text  of 
the  treaty  is  subjected  to  a  searching  criticism  in  the  light  of  subsequent  events. 
Here  we  may  conveniently  note  the  names  of  the  chiefs  concerned  in  the 
transaction.  The  best  articie  I  have  seen  upon  this  subject  is  that  by  Dr. 
Thomas  Foster  of  Duluth.  in  the  St.  Paul  Daily  Democrat  of  May  4th,  1854, 
as  cited  by  J.  Fletcher  Williams  in  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  I.  2d  ed.  1872,  p.  379  ; 
this,  however,  requires  some  additions  and  corrections. 

I.  Little  Crow  and  Little  Raven  are  English  equivalents  of  Petit  Corbeau, 
which  latter  is  a  French  version  of  the  name  of  the  hereditary  chiefs  of  the 
Kapoja  band,  borne  by  successive  individuals  through  several  generations. 
Pike's  Little  Crow  is  said  by  Long  to  have  been  son  of  Little  Crow,  who  was 
himself  son  of  Little  Crow  ;  and  Foster  identifies  Pike's  Little  Crow  "  as  the 
grandfather  of  the  present  chief,  Little  Crow,"  i.e.,  of  one  of  this  name  who 
was  chief  in  1854,  adding  neatly  that  "  he  was  the  Great  Crow  of  all,"  i.  e., 
the  most  celebrated  of  all  those  who  bore  the  name.  This  reference  would 
seem  to  cover  five  generations,  from  Pike's  Little  Crow  backward  to  his  grand- 
father and  forward  to  his  grandson.  Riggs  renders  Pike's  Little  Crow's  name 
Chatanwakoowamani,  Who-walks-pursuing-a-hawk  ;  says  that  his  son's  name 
was  Wamdetanka,  or  Big  Eagle,  who  flourished  in  the  thirties;  and  adds  that  the 
dynasty  became  extinct  with  Taoyatidoota  (or  Towaiotadootah),  who  was  the 
Little  (Jrow  of  the  Sioux  outbreak  of  1862.  He  was  a  very  black  crow  indeed, 
this  last  of  the  Corvida,  and  was  killed  by  a  Mr.  Lamson  in  1863.  Confining 
attention  now  to  the  one  who  seems  by  this  reckoning  to  have  been  Little 
Crow  III.  of  the  series  L-V.,  we  find  him  tabulated  by  Pike  as  Chatewaconamini. 
We  have  already  found  him  cited  by  Long  as  Chetanwakoamene,  rendered  Good 
Sparrow  Hunter.  Beltrami,  IL  p.  191,  presents  Chatewaconamani,  or  the 
Little  Raven,  as  the  chief  in  1823.  Featherstonhaugh  has  a  chief  he  calls 
Tchaypehamonee,  or  Little  Crow,  living  in  1835.  Rev.  Dr.  Neill  has  in  one 
jilace  Chatonwahtooamany,  Petit  Corbeau.  Dr.  Foster  gives  the  Dakota  name 
as  Tchahtanwahkoowahmane,  or  the  Hawk  that  Chases  Walking.  Pike's  Little 
Crow  lived  many  years  after  he  "  touched  the  quill  "  (signed  his  x  mark)  to  the 
cession,  and  was  in  Washington  in  1824.  Schoolcraft,  who  held  a  council  with 
the  Wahpeton  Sioux  at  Fort  Snelling,  July  25th,  1832,  says,  Narr.,  etc.,  1834, 
p.  146  :  "  The  aged  chief  Petite  [j/V]  Corbeau  uttered  their  reply.  I  recognized 
in  this  chief  one  of  the  signers  of  the  grant  of  land  made  at  this  place  26  years 
ago,  when  the  site  of  the  fort  was  first  visited  by  the  late  General  Pike."  The 
death  of  this  good  man  (in  1834?)  occurred  from  a  mortal  wound  he  accidentally 


•r 
41 


\      11 


■3^1 


86 


THE  CHIEFS  WHO   GRANTED   THE   LAND. 


by  the  immediate  punishment  of  my  guard  (having  inflicted 
on  one  of  them  corporeal  punishment),  and  by  sending 
down  the  shore  three  miles  in  search  of  it,  how  much  I  was 
displeased  that  such  a  thing  should  have  occurred.  I  sent 
a  flag  and  two  carrots  of  tobacco,  by  Mr.  Cameron,  to  the 

inilictod  upon  himself  in  drawing  his  gun  from  a  wagon,  at  his  village  of 
Kaposia.  The  circumstances  are  narrated  with  interesting  particulars  by 
General  H.  H.  Sibley,  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  HI.  1874,  pp.  251-54. 

2.  Thf  chief  here  and  consistently  throughout  Pike's  book  of  1810  called  Fils 
de  Pinchow  appears  in  the  1807  text  as  Fils  de  Penichon,  Penechon,  or  Pine- 
chon  ;  but  nowhere  are  we  told  of  whom  this  eminent  individual  was  the  son. 
The  name  seems  to  have  been  one  to  conjure  with  ;  and  our  curiosity  is  excited 
to  discover  Pinchow  I.,  who  was  such  a  personage  that  Pike's  Fils  de  Pinchow, 
or  Pinchow  II.,  needed  no  other  title  to  glory.  On  looking  up  this  subject, 
I  find,  first,  that  "  Pinchow,"  as  rendered  in  the  above  text,  and  the  three 
forms  given  in  the  1807  print,  are  four  variants  of  a  word  which  is 
also  written  Pinichon,  Pinchon,  Penition,  Pinneshaw,  etc.,  in  Frencli  or 
English  ;  and  that  these  are  corruptions  of  a  Dakota  word.  Thus  Beltrami, 
II.  p.  207,  introduces  us  to  one  Tacokoquipesceni,  or  Panisciowa,  as  being  in 
1823  chief  of  the  old  village  on  the  St.  Peter's,  three  miles  above  its  mouth. 
The  shorter  name  which  Beltrami  uses  is  obviously  the  same  as  Pinchow,  etc., 
while  the  longer  one  he  uses  is  the  same  as  that  Takopepeshene  of  which  we 
read  in  Keating's  Long,  I.  p.  385  :  "  Wapasha  formerly  lived  in  that  [old] 
village,  but  having  removed  from  it  with  the  greater  part  of  his  warriors,  a  few 
preferred  remaining  there,  and  chose  one  of  their  number  as  a  leader.  His  son 
Takopepeshene,  (dauntless,)  now  [1823]  rules  over  them."  We  read  further  in 
Keating's  Long,  I.  p.  419,  of  the  Nanpashene,  or  "  Dauntless  Society,"  as  an 
association  of  young  braves  who  feared  nothing  :  see  further  in  this  matter, 
Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  1893,  p.  96.  So  the  connection  of  all  these  words  is 
obvious,  though  the  genetic  relationships  of  the  individuals  bearing  the  name  is 
not  so  clear.  I  suppose  that  Pike,  Beltrami,  and  Long  all  refer  to  one  and  the 
same  individual, »'.  t.,  to  the  son  of  that  individual  whom  the  warriors  who  pre- 
ferred to  remain  at  the  said  village  chose  as  their  leader.  Dr.  Foster,  as  above 
cited,  says  that  Pinchon,  or  Pinichon,  etc.,  was  the  grandfather  of  one  Good  Road, 
and  in  his  tribe  the  most  noted  chief  of  the  eastern  Sioux  ;  the  name  conferred 
upon  this  chief  being  Tahkookeepayshne,  or  "  What  is  he  afraid  of  ?"  implying 
the  affirmation  that  he  was  afraid  of  nothing.  This  having  been  corrupted  by 
the  French  to  Pinchon,  etc.,  and  taken  up  in  English  as  Pinneshaw,  etc.,  was 
readopted  by  the  Sioux  themselves  as  a  common  noun,  rather  than  a  proper 
name,  to  designate  a  very  brave  man  ;  so  that  they  would  speak  of  such  or  such 
a  one  as  a  pinneshaw.  Recurring  now  to  the  individual  whom  Pike  names  Fils 
de  Pinchow,  we  elsewhere  find  him  listed  by  Pike  under  the  name  of  Wyaga- 
nage,  as  a  chief  of  the  Gens  du  Lac  and  head  of  the  village  Pike  visited  at  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  Peter's ;  this  is  the  Way  Ago  Enagee  whose  name  appears 


i::: 


THE  CHIEFS  WHO  GRANTED  THE  LAND. 


87 


inflicted 
sending 
:h  I  was 
I  sent 
1,  to  the 

village  of 
ticulars  by 

» called  Fils 
)n,  or  Pine- 
ras  the  son. 
ty  is  excited 
de  Pinchow, 
;his  subject, 
id  the  three 
■d  which   is 
French   or 
us  Beltrami, 
as  being  in 
e  its  mouth. 
inchow,  eic, 
of  which  we 
that  [old] 
irriors,  a  few 
ler.     His  son 
lad  further  in 
[ciety,"  as  an 
this  matter, 
[ese  words  is 
the  name  is 
one  and  the 
iors  who  pre- 
,  as  above 
Good  Road, 
le  conferred 
?"  implying 
:orrupted  by 
iw,  etc.,  was 
lan  a  proper 
such  or  such 
[C  names  Fils 
le  of  Wyaga- 
[isited  at  the 
amc  appears 


Sioux  at  the  head  of  the  St.  Peters  ;  made  a  small  draft  of 
the  position  at  this  place  ;  sent  up  the  boat  I  got  from  Mr. 
Fisher  to  the  village  on  the  St.  Peters,  and  exchanged  her 
for  a  barge  with  Mr.  Duncan.  My  men  returned  with  the 
barge  about  sundown.  She  was  a  fine  light  thing ;  eight 
men  were  able  to  carry  her.     Employed  all  day  in  writing. 

above  as  that  of  a  signer  by  his  X  mark  of  the  grant  of  land  ;  and  such  appears 
to  be  the  only  name  by  which  he  became  ofKcially  known  to  us.  It  is  spelled 
differently  in  every  one  of  the  several  places  where  I  have  found  it  in  print  cr 
in  manuscript ;  but  in  no  case  irrecognizably. 

3.  We  know  no  more  of  the  Grand  Partisan  than  this  name  or  title.     Dr. 
Foster  supposes  him  to  have  been  only  a  principal  soldier — certainly  not  a  chief. 

4.  "  Le  Original  Leve"  is  decidedly  original !    The  queer  phrase  stands  for 

L'Orignal  Leve,  given  in  the  text  of  1807  as  Le  Orignal  Leve,  and  thus  nearly 

right.    The  individual  thus  designated  is  listed  on  Pike's  tabular  exhibit  as 

Tahamie,  Orignal  leve,  and  Rising  Moose  ;  he  is  also  mentioned  in  Pike's  letter 

to  Wilkinson  of  Sept.  23d-26th,  1805,  as  Elan  Levie.     There  is  no  doubt  about 

the  meaning  of  these  phrases;    for  orignal,  orignac,  oriniae,  orenac,  etc.,  are 

Basque  forms  of  a  name  of  the  moose,  which  animal,  as  well  as  the  elk,  is  also 

called  ^lan,  while  lev/  certainly  implies  that  the  animal  had  arisen,  and  was 

standing  on  his  legs,  not  that  he  was  in  the  act  of  rising.     Dr.  Foster  evidently 

did  not  know  what  the  French  phrase  should  be,  for  he  presents  Pike's  peculiar 

cacographies,  and  is  brought  to  book  about  it  by  Mr.  Williams  ;  but  he  gives 

us  some  interesting  particulars  of  the  chief  who  bore  these  names,  and   I 

transcribe  his  remarks  in  substance.      Tah'amie,  L'Orignal  Leve,  or  Standing 

Moose  is  believed  to  be  identical  with  an  aged  Indian  whom  most  old  Minne- 

sotians  knew  by  the  name  of  Tammahhaw,  who  had  but  one  eye  and  always 

wore  a  stove-pipe  hat.     He  used  to  boast  that  he  was  the  only  "American" 

Sioux— by  which  he  meant  that  in  the  war  of  1812,  when  the  Sioux  sided  with 

the  British,  and  Little  Crow  and  Joseph  Reinville  led  a  war-party  against  the 

Americans,  he  refused  to  join  them  and  went  to  St.  Louis,  where  he  entered  the 

service  of  the  Americans  in  the  employ  of  General  William  Clark.     In  A£4  he 

still  treasured  a  commission  he  had  received  in  1814  (or  May  6th,  1816?)  from 

General  Clark.     Dr.  Foster  remarks  that  if  there  is  no  mistake  in  the  identity, 

the  friendship  Tahamie  conceived  for  Pike  stood  the  test  of  time,  and  the  two 

fought  together  against  our  common  enemies — a  fact  which  our  government 

should  not  overlook.     One  Joseph  Mojou,  an  old  Canadian  of  Point  Prescott, 

told  Dr.  Foster  that  Tamahaw  was  called  by  the  voyageurs  "Old  Priest," 

because  he  was  such  a  talker  on  all  occasions  ;  and  Dr.  Foster  remarks  that  the 

Sioux  word  tam^oamda,  which  resembles  this  Indian's  name,  means  to  vociferate, 

reiterate,  harangue,  etc.     Mr.  E.  A.  C.  Hatch  informed  Dr.  Foster  that  when 

he  traded  with  the  Winnebagoes,  and  with  Wabasha's  band  of  Sioux,  he  knew 

the  Indian  and  had  seen  the  commission  issued  by  General  Clark  ;  also»  that 

the  Winnebagoes,  who  were  acquainted  with  this  Indian,  translated  his  name 


88 


THE  CHIEFS  WHO  GRANTED   THE  LAND. 


Sept.  25th.  I  was  awakened  out  of  my  bed  by  Le  Petit 
Corbeau,  head  chief,  who  came  up  from  his  village  to  see  if 
we  were  all  killed,  or  if  any  accident  had  happened  to  us. 
This  was  in  consequence  of  their  having  found  my  flag 

Nazeekah  in  their  language — this  being  their  word  for  the  pike,  a  fish,  and 
tammahhay  being  the  Dakotan  word  for  that  fish.  According  to  J.  F.  Williams, 
Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  III.  1874,  p.15,  Tahama  or  Tahamie  was  called  by  the  French 
Le  Bourgne  (Borgne),  and  by  the  English  One-eye,  or  the  One-eyet*  Sioux,  and 
that  the  loss  of  the  eye  occurred  by  accident  in  a  game  during  his  boyhood.  He 
was  born  at  Prairie  k  I'Aile,  the  present  site  of  Winona,  and  died  in  April,  iSfio, 
"  at  least  85  years  old,  though  some  who  knew  him  well  place  his  age  at  nearly 
100."  A  daguerreotype  likeness  of  him,  procured  at  Wabasha  in  1859  by  Hon. 
C.  S.  Bryant,  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society. 

5.  "  Le  Demi  Douzen  "  is  not  named  elsewhere  in  this  book,  and  does  not 
appear  at  all  in  the  1807  edition.  If  the  phrase  which  represents  his  name 
means  Half  Dozen,  or  Six,  it  would  be  better  written  Demie  Douzaine,  or 
Demi-douzaine  ;  but  we  have  seen  enough  of  Pike's  French  to  be  already 
satisfied  that  he  always  saluted  the  letters  of  the  French  alphabet  with  blank 
cartridges.  The  Indian  he  calls  Demi  Douzen  is  thoroughly  identified  by  Dr. 
Foster  as  the  father  of  the  present  (1854)  chief  IJttle  Six,  and  the  chief  of  the 
large  Sioux  village  which  was  situated  28  m.  up  the  St.  Peter's,  3  or  4  m.  this 
side  of  the  modern  Indian  village  of  Shakopee.  The  father — the  one  who 
attended  Pike's  conference — was  known  as  Shahkpay,  Half  Dozen,  and  Six ; 
his  son  as  Shahkpaydan,  or  Little  Six,  the  former  being  the  second  of  the  name, 
or  Six  II.,  and  the  latter  the  third  of  the  name,  or  Six  III.;  but  who  was  the 
original  Half  Dozen,  or  Six  I.,  founder  of  this  dynasty,  we  are  not  informed. 
Long  speaks  of  Six  II.  as  Shakpa,  chief  of  the  village  Taoapa  ;  and  Forsyth 
calls  this  one  "  Mr.  Six,  a  good-for-nothing  fellow." 

6.  '•  Le  Beccasse"  of  the  above  text  was  a  stumbling-block.  In  the  1807 
edition  the  term  appears  as  Le  Bucasse.  It  looks  as  if  it  were  meant  for  La 
Becasse,  me.ining  Woodcock.  But  Dr.  Foster  (whose  text  as  cited  by  Mr. 
Williams  has  Le  Boccasse)  informs  us  that  the  phrase  should  be  written  Bras 
Casse — by  which  he  evidently  means  Bras  Casse,  as  he  translates  Broken  Arm. 
(Pike's  tabular  exhibit  presents  a  certain  Bras  Casse  ;  but  this  was  a  Sauk 
chief,  otherwise  Pockquinike.)  Broken  Arm's  Sioux  name  is  believed  by  Dr, 
Foster  to  have  been  Wahkantahpay  ;  "  and  as  late  as  1825  he  was  still  livinj^ 
at  his  small  village  of  Wahpaykootans,  on  a  lake  near  the  Minnesota  [river] 
some  five  or  six  miles  below  Prairie  La  Fleche,  now  Le  Sueur." 

7.  Le  Boeuf  que  [qui]  Marche,  or  Walking  Buffalo,  as  we  are  informed  by 
Dr.  Foster,  was  also  called  Tahtawkahmahnee  ;  "  he  was  a  kind  of  sub-chief 
of  old  Wabashaw  (who  was  not  present),  being  also  called  Red  Wing  ;  and  it 
is  from  him  that  the  village  at  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin  derives  its  name.  He 
was  the  father  [Hancock  says  uncle]  of  Wahkootay,  the  present  [1854]  old 
chieftain  of  the  Red  Wing  band."    Compare  note  ",  p.  69. 


iq 


I'll 


THE   FLAG  INCIDENT. 


89 


:.e  Petit 
;o  see  if 
1  to  us. 
my  flag 

a  fish,  and 
.  Williams, 

the  Vrcnch 

Sioux,  and 
rhood.  He 
April,  i8f)0, 
ge  at  nearly 
159  by  Hon. 

ty- 

nd  does  not 
ts  his  name 
Douzaine,  or 
(  be  already 
;  with  blank 
tified  by  Dr. 
chief  of  the 
or  4  m.  thi& 
the  one  who 
:n,  and  Six ; 
of  the  name, 
who  was  the 
lot  informed, 
and  Forsyth 

In  the  1807 
leant  for  La 
jited  by  Mr. 
written  ISras 
roken  Arm. 
was  a  Sniik 
lieved  by  Dr. 
IS  still  living 
lesota  [river] 

I  informed  by 
lof  sub-chief 
*^ing  ;  and  it 
J  name.  He 
tt  [1854]  oW 


floating  three  miles  below  their  village,  15  miles  hence,  from 
which  they  concluded  some  affray  had  taken  place,  and  that 
it  had  been  thrown  overboard.  Although  I  considered  this 
an  unfortunate  accident  for  me,  I  was  exceedingly  happy 
at  its  effect ;  for  it  was  the  occasion  of  preventing  much 
bloodshed  among  the  savages.  A  chief  called  Outard 
Blanche '  had  his  lip  cut  off,  and  had  come  to  Petit 
Corbeau  and  told  him,  "  that  his  face  was  his  looking-glass, 
that  it  was  spoiled,  and  that  he  was  determined  on  re- 
venge." The  parties  were  charging  their  guns  and  prepar- 
ing for  action,  when  lo !  the  flag  appeared  like  a  messenger 
of  peace  sent  to  prevent  their  bloody  purposes.  They  were 
all  astonished  to  see  it.  The  staff  was  broken.  Then  Petit 
Corbeau  arose  and  spoke  to  this  effect :  "  That  a  thing  so 
sacred  had  not  been  taken  from. my  boat  without  violence  ; 
that  it  would  be  proper  for  them  to  hush  all  private  ani- 
mosities, until  they  had  revenged  the  cause  of  their  eldest 
brother ;  that  he  would  immediately  go  up  to  St.  Peters,  to 
know  what  dogs  had  done  that  thing,  in  order  to  take  steps 
to  get  satisfaction  of  those  who  had  done  the  mischief." 
They  all  listened  to  this  reasoning ;  he  immediately  had 
the  flag  put  out  to  dry,  and  embarked  for  my  camp.  I  was 
much  concerned  to  hear  of  the  blood  likely  to  have  been 

'  Outard  Blanche,  correctly  Outarde  Blanche,  means  White  Bustard.  The 
bustard  is  a  very  large  bird,  many  species  of  which  inhabit  Europe,  Asia,  and 
Africa,  but  none  America.  It  may,  therefore,  be  well  to  explain  that  outarde 
was  a  name  given  by  the  early  French  in  America  to  the  Canada  goose  {Bernicla 
canadensis);  but  that  since  this  goose  is  mostly  black,  the  phrase  outarde  blanche 
would  rather  indicate  the  snow  goose  {Chen  hyperbortus),  which  when  adult 
is  pure  white  excepting  the  tips  of  the  wings.  I  remember  seeing  somewhere 
a  statement,  the  source  of  which  I  cannot  now  recall,  to  the  effect  that  the 
phrase  meant  White  Buzzard,  not  White  Bustard  ;  in  which  case  the  French 
form  would  be  Busard  B)a;ic.  Major  Taliaferro  speaks  of  White  Buzzard  in 
his  autobiography,  as  printed  in  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  VI.  Part  2,  1891,  p.  225, 
p.  234,  etc.  Major  Forsyth  calls  him  White  Bustard.  However  this  may  be,  it 
is  certain  that  there  was  a  chief  of  the  name  of  Mahgossau,  who  was  called  Old 
Bustard,  and  for  many  years  known  to  the  whites  by  the  latter  designation. 
For  an  account  of  the  stabbing  of  this  chief  in  a  whisky-bout,  in  the  summer 
of  1820,  see  letter  of  Lawrence  Taliaferro,  Indian  agent  at  St.  Peters,  dated 
Aug,  5th,  1820,  in  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  II.  Part  2,  1864,  2d  ed.  1881,  p.  104. 


m 


I,  r ! ' 


90 


MINNEHAHA— FALLS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY. 


shed,  and  gave  him  five  yards  of  blue  stroud,  three  yards  of 
calico,  one  handkerchief,  one  carrot  of  tobacco,  and  one 
knife,  in  order  to  make  peace  among  his  people.  He 
promised  to  send  my  flag  by  land  to  the  falls,  and  make 
peace  with  Outard  Blanche.  Mr.  Frazer  went  up  to  the 
village.  We  embarked  late,  and  encamped  at  the  foot  of 
the  rapids.  In  many  places,  I  could  scarce  [almost]  throw 
a  stone  over  the  river.     Distance  three  miles.* 

Sept.  26th.  Embarked  at  the  usual  hour,  and  after  much 
labor  in  passing  through  the  rapids,  arrived  at  the  foot  of 
the  falls  [of  St.  Anthony,  in  the  city  of  Minneapolis],  about 
three  or  four  o'clock ;  unloaded  my  boat,  and  had  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  her  cargo  carried  over  the  portage.  With  the 
other  boat,  however,  full  loaded,  they  were  not  able  to  get 
over  the  last  shoot,  and  encamped  about  600  yards  below.  I 
pitched  my  tent  and  encamped  above  the  shoot.  The  rap. 
ids  mentioned  in  this  day's  march  might  properly  be  called  a 
continuation  of  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  for  they  are  equally 
entitled  to  this  appellation  with  the  falls  of  the  Delaware 
and  Susquehanna.     Killed  one  deer.     Distance  nine  miles.' 

*  Setting  camp  close  to  a  small  stream  which  falls  in  on  Pike's  left,  and  which 
has  acquired  great  celebrity  for  its  pretty  little  water-fall.  For  this  is  no  other 
than  the.Minnehaha.  It  is  a  wonder  Pike  missed  Minnehaha  falls  ;  or  that,  if 
he  was  informed  of  them,  he  did  not  take  the  trouble  to  go  less  than  a  mile  up 
the  stream  to  see  so  pretty  a  spectacle.  About  2|^  m.  from  Fort  Snelling,  on 
the  road  to  Minneapolis,  the  stream  spills  over  the  bluff,  with  as  clear  a  descent 
as  water  ordinarily  makes  from  the  nozzle  of  a  spout.  The  picturesque  features 
of  this  place  may  be  imagined,  or  easily  inspected  by  ordinary  tourist  travel ; 
the  poetical  and  sentimental  are  well  developed  by  I-ongfellow  in  Hiawatha ; 
the  hydrographic  are  a  creek  5  yards  wide,  falling  43  feet  in  an  unbroken  para- 
bolic curve.  This  was  formerly  plain  Brown's  cr.  and  Brown's  fall ;  Nicollet 
named  the  stream  Cascade  cr. ;  but  it  will  doubtless  always  be  best  known  by 
the  name  which  Longfellow  transferred  from  its  original  to  a  new  application, 
to  suit  the  exigencies  of  verse.  This  stream  is  the  discharge  of  Lake  Minne- 
tonka.  In  its  course  it  receives  the  outlet  of  a  chain  of  lakes  from  the  \V., 
called  Bass  (modem),  Calhoun  (Nicollet),  and  Harriet  (Nicollet) ;  nearer  the 
falls  is  a  set  of  smaller  lakes,  whose  modern  names  are  Diamond,  Pearl,  Duck, 
Mother,  Amelia,  and  Rice  (latter,  the  Lake  Ann  of  times  when  Fort  Snelling 
was  Fort  St.  Anthony,  an  expansion  of  Brown's  cr.  itself). 

*  The  rapids  Pike  thus  ascends  to  the  falls,  and  the  comparative  characters  of 


I  i  t-il 

u 


PORTAGE  OF  'iHE  FALLS— MINNEAPOLIS 


91 


ards  of 
nd  one 
e.  He 
i  make 

to  the 

foot  of 
t]  throw 

er  much 
:  foot  of 
5],  about 
the  prin- 
Vith  the 
le  to  get 
jelow.    I 
The  rap. 
e  called  a 
re  equally 
Delaware 
ne  miles.' 

[t,  and  which 
is  no  other 
;  or  that,  if 
in  a  mile  up 
Snelling,  on 
;ar  a  descent 
sque  features 
kurist  travel; 
li  Hiawatha; 
Ibroken  para- 
lall ;  Nicollet 
;t  known  by 
application, 
.ake  Minne- 
rom  the  W., 
;  nearer  the 
|pearl,  Puck, 
Tort  Snelling 


I  characters 


of 


Sept.  2yth.  Brought  over  the  residue  of  my  lading  this 
morning.  Two  men  arrived  from  Mr.  Frazer,  on  St.  Peters, 
for  my  dispatches.  This  business  of  closing  and  sealing 
appeared  like  a  last  adieu  to  the  civilized  world.  Sent  a 
large  packet  to  the  general,  and  a  letter  to  Mrs.  Pike,  with  a 
short  note  to  Mr.  Frazer.  Two  young  Indians  brought  my 
flag  across  by  land  ;  they  arrived  yesterday,  just  as  we  came 
in  sight  of  the  falls.     I  made  them  a  present  for  their  punc- 

the  two  gorges,  of  the  Mississippi  and  Minnesota  respectively,  which  unite  at 
Fort  Snelling,  indicate  that  in  prehistoric  time  the  falls  were  located  about  the 
position  of  the  fort.  But  there  has  been  no  natural  recession  within  the  brief 
historic  period — merely  a  momentary  flash  on  the  screen  of  geologic  duration. 
The  most  marked  alteration  of  the  falls  that  we  know  of  was  the  accidental 
result  of  an  unintended  interference  by  man.  This  happened  from  the  bursting 
of  a  log-boom.  "Behind  the  boom  were  thousands  of  logs  two  or  three  feet 
across  and  twelve  feet  long.  These  descending  by  the  fall  probably  acquired  a 
velocity  of  not  less  than  64  feet  a  second,  and  striking  endwise  on  the  debris  of 
the  hard  copping  rock  pulverized  it  so  that  the  undermining  of  the  soft  sand  rock 
which  this  debris  protected  went  on  with  great  rapidity,"  Warren,  Ex.  Doc. 
No.  57,  1866-7,  p.  19.  On  July  5th,  1880,  the  Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  celebrated  the 
bi-centennial  of  the  discovery  of  the  falls,  and  there  is  no  question  that  they  were 
first  seen  of  white  men  by  the  two  companions  of  Accault  within  a  few  hours  of 
July  5th,  1680,  if  not  by  the  light  of  that  very  day.  The  occasion  was  a  buffalo- 
hunt  down  river  from  the  great  Sioux  town  on  Lake  Buade  (Mille  Lacs),  when  the 
Indians  brought  the  Picard  and  the  priest  (two  of  their  three  prisoners)  along. 
The  falls  were  named  by  Hennepin  Sault  de  S*.  Antoine  de  PadoU  (so  map,  1683) 
"  in  gratitude  for  the  favors  done  me  by  the  Almighty  through  the  intercession 
of  that  great  saint  whom  we  had  chosen  patron  and  protector  of  all  our  enter- 
prises," as  Shea's  tr.  Hennep.,  1880,  p.  200,  puts  it.  What  these  favors  were  is 
not  evident  in  the  light  of  history;  according  to  Hennepin's  own  relation,  God's 
gracious  designs,  whatever  they  may  have  been,  were  effectually  disconcerted  by 
the  Sioux,  who  took  this  slavish  son  of  superstition  by  the  nape  of  the  neck  and 
otherwise  subjected  him  to  dire  indignities  ;  while  as  to  the  monk  Anthony, 
that  Franciscan  was  born  at  Lisbon,  Aug.  15th,  1195,  died  at  Padua,  June  13th, 
1231,  and  there  is  not  a  scintilla  of  evidence  that  he  did  anything  whatever  sub- 
sequent to  this  latter  date.  We  might  Iaug!»  off  even  so  glaring  an  anachronism  as 
a  mere  theological  pleasantry  which  deceives  no  one,  were  it  not  for  the  injustice 
it  does  to  La  Salle,  who  furnished  the  sinews  of  war  for  Accault's,  Auguelle's, 
and  Hennepin's  campaign,  and  was  the  only  person  who  patronized  their  trip, 
saving  the  said  Sioux,  who  turned  it  into  a  personally  conducted  tour  like  our 
modern  Cook's.  "  Saut  St.  Antoine  "  appears  on  Franquelin's  map,  1688.  The 
Sioux  called  these  falls  Minirara,  the  laughing  water,  whence  Minnehaha.  In 
Dakotan  ira  means  to  laugh,  and  the  reduplicated  form  irara  means  to  laugh 


92 


PORTAGE  OF  THE   FALLS— MINNEAPOLIS. 


tuality  and  expedition,  and  the  danger  they  were  exposed  to 
from  the  journey.  Carried  our  boats  out  of  the  river  as  far 
as  the  bottom  of  the  hill. 

Sept.  28th.  Brought  my  barge  over,  and  put  her  in  the 
river  above  the  falls.  While  we  were  engaged  with  her, 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  camp,  seven  Indians,  painted 
black,  appeared  on  the  heights.  We  had  left  our  guns  at 
camp,  and  were  entirely  defenseless.     It  occurred  to  me 


.h,\ 


much  or  often  ;  but  ira  is  compounded  of  t,  the  mouth,  and  ra,  to  curl ;  and  'n 
its  application  to  the  falls  rara,  which  is  simply  ra  reduplicated,  shoukl  I;l- 
translated  curling  and  not  laughing  waters.  Ungeographical  transfer  of  Minnt,*- 
haha  to  Brown's  falls  is  simply  poetical  license.  The  Chip,  name  was  Kaka- 
bikah,  nlluding  to  the  severed  rock.  Hennepin  calls  the  falls  "  something  very 
astonishing,"  indeed  "  terrible,"  more  suocrasso,  and  exaggerated  the  descent 
of  waters  to  50  or  60  feet.  Carver  brings  him  to  book  about  this,  and  reducei 
the  height  to  30  feet.  Pike's  figures  are  very  close  indeed,  and  his  description 
is  the  most  accurate  we  had  in  1810;  Long  makes  the  height  practically  the 
same,  but  Pike's  breadth  of  627  yards  was  reduced  by  Say  and  Calhoun  in  1S23 
to  594.  In  view  of  these  good  measurements  it  is  surprising  that  Schoolcraft 
elevates  the  falls  to  40  feet  perpendicular,  and  narrows  the  width  to  227  yards. 
He  was  a  man  of  great  ability  and  still  greater  industry,  whose  acquirements 
were  extensive  and  varied  ;  yet  he  must  be  taken  warily,  for  there  is  many  a 
loose  screw  in  his  handiwork,  and  no  structure  is  stronger  than  its  weakest  joint. 
The  trouble  with  Schoolcraft  is  two-fold  ;  he  tried  to  cover  too  much  groun-l  to 
go  over  it  thoroughly,  and  never  emerged  from  the  penumbra  of  that  same  theo- 
logical occultation  which  kept  Hennepin's  wits  in  total  eclipse.  The  natural 
beauty  of  this  cataract  was  not  destined  to  be  a  thing  of  joy  forever  ;  one's  emo- 
tions, on  beholding  it  now,  are  those  that  might  be  aroused  by  any  mill-tail  of 
similar  dimensions.  But  the  vicv  beauty  of  utility  has  been  conferred  by  human 
skill  and  ingenuity  in  iitili/.in;:,'  .ae  vast  water-power,  to  which  Minneapolis 
measurably  owes  her  matchless  progress  and  present  opulence  ;  pop.  1870, 
13,000;  1880,  47,000;  lS3^,  r  29,000;  now  or  lately,  220,000;  thus  surp.issing 
the  190,000  of  her  elder  sister,  St.  Paul — in  fact  becoming  the  alter  ego  of 
the  wonderful  pair.  Considering  the  rapid  building  up  of  the  fair  inter- 
urban  district,  and  consequently  the  absorption  of  respective  suburbs  into  mutu- 
alities, it  is  logical  to  infer  the  complete  Siamization  of  the  splendid  twins,  and 
a  clutch  at  the  laurels  of  Chicago  or  New  York.  By  that  time  such  scenes  as 
the  Mississippi  has  here  transferred  to  the  canvas  of  human  art  will  be  shifted 
to  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  where  history  will  repeat  itself  in  another 
magnificent  metropolis.  Everything  begins  in  watery  elements  ;  the  force  of 
falling  water  controls  the  course  of  empire  ;  and  the  conversion  of  gravitational 
potentialities  into  electrical  potencies  realizes  dreams  of  destiny,  without  the 
intercession  of  saints  or  the  interference  of  God. 


'^^rj^fj 


SE    EN  SIOUX    ON  THE   RAMPAGE. 


^i 


that  they  were  the  small  party  of  Sioux  who  were  obstinate, 
and  would  go  to  war  whcu  the  other  part  of  the  bands  came 
in.  These  they  proved  to  be.  They  were  better  armed 
than  any  I  had  ever  seen,  having  guns,  bows,  arrows, 
clubs,  spears,  and  some  of  them  even  a  case  of  pistols. 
I  was  at  that  time  giving  my  men  a  dram,  and  giving  the 
cap  of  liquor  to  the  first,  he  drank  it  oft;  but  I  was  more 
cautious  with  the  remainder.  I  sent  my  interpreter  to  camp 
with  them  to  wait  my  coming,  wishing  to  purchase  one  of 
their  war-clubs,  which  was  made  of  elk-horn,  and  decorated 
with  inlaid  work.  This,  and  a  set  of  bows  and  arrows,  I 
wished  to  get  as  a  curiosity.  But  the  liquor  I  had  given 
him  beginning  to  operate,  he  came  back  for  me ;  refusing 
to  go  till  I  brought  my  boat,  he  returned,  and  (I  suppose 
being  offended)  borrowed  a  canoe  and  crossed  the  river.  In 
the  afternoon  we  got  the  other  boat  near  the  top  of  the  hill, 
when  the  props  gave  way,  and  she  slid  all  the  way  down 
to  the  bottom,  but  fortunately  without  injuring  any  person. 
It  raining  very  hard,  we  left  her.  Killed  one  goose  and  a 
raccoon. 

Sunday,  Sept.  2()th.  I  killed  a  remarkably  large  raccoon. 
Got  our  large  boat  over  the  portage,  and  put  her  in  the 
river,  at  the  upper  landing.  This  night  the  men  gave  suffi- 
cient proof  of  their  fatigue,  by  all  throwin^^  theinselves  down 
to  sleep,  preferring  rest  to  supper.  This  day  I  had  but  1 5 
men  o  jt  of  22  ;  the  others  were  sick. 

This  voyage  could  have  been  performed  with  great  con- 
venience if  we  had  taken  our  departure  in  June.  But  the 
proper  time  would  be  to  leave  the  Illinois  as  soon  as  the  ice 
would  permit,  when  the  river  would  be  of  a  good  height. 

Sept.  joth.  Loaded  my  boat,  moved  over,  and  encamped 
on  the  island.  The  large  boats  loading  likewise,  we  went 
over  and  put  on  board.  In  the  meantime  I  took  a  survey 
of  the  Falls,  Portage,  etc.  If  it  be  possible  to  pass  the  falls 
at  high  water,  of  which  I  am  doubtful,  it  must  be  on  the 
east  side,  about  30  yards  from  shore,  as  there  are  three 
layers  of  rocks,  one  below  the  other.     The  pitch  off  either 


94         BASSETT'S,   rice,  and    coon  creeks — ANOKA. 

is  not  more  than  five  feet ;  but  of  this  I  can  say  more  on  my 
return.     (It  is  never  possible,  as  ascertained  on  my  return.) 

Oct.  ist.  Embarked  late.  The  river  at  first  appeared 
mild  and  sufficiently  deep ;  but  after  about  four  miles  the 
shoals  commenced,  and  we  had  very  hard  water  all  day; 
passed  three  rapids.  Killed  one  goose  and  two  ducks. 
This  day  the  sun  shone  after  I  had  left  the  falls ;  but  whilst 
there  it  was  always  cloudy.     Distance  17  miles.' 

Oct.  2d.  Embarked  at  our  usual  hour,  and  shortly  after 
passed  some  large  islands  and  remarkably  hard  ripples. 
Indeed  the  navigation,  to  persons  not  determined  to  pro- 
ceed, would  have  been  deemed  impracticable.  We  waded 
nearly  all  day,  to  force  the  boats  off  shoals,  and  draw  them 
through  rapids.  Killed  three  geese  and  two  swans.  Much 
appearance  of  elk  and  deer.     Distance  12  miles.' 


•  Decidedly  less  than  this ;  it  is  only  18-20  m.  by  river  or  rail  from  Minne- 
apolis to  Anoka,  which  Pike  does  not  reach  till  to-morrow  night ;  to-day's  camp 
between  Casey's  isls.  and  Coon  cr.,  in  Anoka  Co.  if  on  the  right,  in  Hennepin 
Co.  if  on  the  left.  The  three  rapids  he  passed  raised  him  from  792  to  808  feet 
above  sea-level ;  one  of  them  is  known  as  Fridley's  bar,  5  m.  above  Minneapolis, 
I J^  m.  below  Durnam's  isl.  lie  had  made  the  usual  portage  of  the  falls  on  the 
right-hand  side  (left  bank) ;  and  soon  after  decamping  this  morning  he  passed 
on  his  left  Bassett's  cr. ,  which  runs  through  the  city,  or  recently  did  so — wliat 
disposition  may  have  since  been  made  of  it  I  do  not  know.  This  was  formerly 
called  Falls  cr.,  as  by  Nicollet,  who  maps  it  in  connection  with  his  Lake 
of  the  Isles  and  two  other  sheets.  Either  this  or  the  next  above  on  the  same 
side  is  also  traced  on  Pike's  map,  without  name.  This  next  one  is  Shingle  cr., 
called  Omini  Wakan  cr.  by  Nicollet  and  by  Owen  ;  it  comes  in  on  the  left  a  mile 
or  more  below  Fridley's  bar.  Half  a  mile  above  Durnam's  isl.,  and  on  the 
right,  is  Rice  or  Manomin  cr.,  which  Nicollet  calls  Ottonwey  r.,  and  connects 
with  Mde  Wakanton  1.  Pike  also  traces  this  one,  but  by  no  name.  R.  R.  station 
Fridley  is  near  its  mouth.     (See  further  under  Fridley,  in  the  index.) 

'  About  8  m.,  to  Anoka,  seat  of  that  county,  a  logging  town  of  6,000  pop.,  at 
mouth  of  Rum  r.  Pike  first  passed  Coon  cr.,  right,  and  the  most  difficult  rapids 
he  went  up  are  those  named  for  the  same  intelligent  and  ablutionary  quadruped, 
Procyon  lotor.  Coon  or  Racoon  cr.  was  formerly  known  as  Peterah  cr.  Wan- 
yecha  (now  Elm)  cr.  falls  in  on  the  left,  slightly  below  Rum  r.  The  latter  is  a 
notable  stream,  being  the  main  discharge  of  Mille  Lacs,  and  as  such  having  ac- 
quired a  long  history.  Carver  called  it  Rum  r. :  "in  the  little  tour  I  made  about  the 
Falls  [of  St.  A.],  after  traveling  14  m.  by  the  side  of  the  Mississippi,  I  came  to  a 
river  nearly  20  yards  wide  which  ran  from  the  north  east,  called  Rum  River,"  he 


^pp^^^pp^^ 


SYNONYMY  OF   RUM   RIVER. 


95 


Is  on  the 

he  i^pssed 

so — w'.iat 

formerly 

his  Lake 

the  same 

hingle  cr., 

left  a  mile 

.nd  on  the 

connects 

R.  station 


Oct.jd.    Cold  in  the  morning.    Mercury  at  zero.    Came  on 
very  well ;  some  ripples  and  shoals.     Killed  three  geese  and 

says,  p.  45,  ed.  1796.  This  was  Nov.  19th,  1767,  and  the  river  hasoftenest  been 
so  designated  ever  since.  But  here  is  a  place  where  the  involuntary  exploration 
which  the  Sioux  forced  on  Accault's  party  comes  in,  and  the  Hennepinian 
canonical  calendar  is  obtruded  as  usual,  making  the  following  trouble  : 

"  Eight  leagues  abovi  St.  Anthony  of  Padua's  falls  on  the  right,  you  find  the 
river  of  the  Issati  or  Nadoussiou  [Sioux],  with  a  very  narrow  mouth,  which  you 
can  ascend  to  the  north  for  about  70  leagues  to  Lake  Buade  or  of  the  Issati 
[Mille  Lacs]  where  it  rises.  We  gave  this  river  the  name  of  St.  Francis," 
Shea's  Henp.,  tr.  1880,  p.  201.  In  French  the  name  was  R.  de  St.  Fran9ois  : 
so  Henp.,  map,  1683  ;  on  Franquelin's,  1688,  it  is  "  Riviere  des  Francois  ou  des 
Sioux,"  which  turns  it  over  from  the  saint  to  the  French  nation,  possibly  less 
saintly  on  the  whole — that  is,  unless  Franquelin  intended  to  cover  St.  Francis 
Je  Sales,  St.  Francis  d'Assisi,  and  St.  Francis  de  Paola,  01  unless  des  be  a  mis- 
engravement  for  de  S.  But  Franquelin's  earlier  map,  1683  or  1684,  has  only 
R.  des  Frangois,  which  is  there  connected  with  R.  de  la  Madelame  (St.  Croix 
r.)  by  R.  du  Portage,  which  latler  stands  for  present  Snake  r.,  a  branch  of  the 
St.  Croix.  De  L'Isle's  map,  1703,  avoids  any  such  question  by  turning  the  river 
entirely  over  to  the  Siomx  ;  he  letters  R.  de  Mendeouacanion,  i.  e.,  Mdewak- 
antonwan  or  Gens  du  Lac.  A  question  aflecting  the  identification  of  St.  Fran- 
cis with  Rum  came  up  in  Carver's  time,  and  is  still  mooted.  Carver  says,  ed. 
at.  p.  45  :  "  Reached  the  River  St.  Francis,  near  60  miles  above  the  Falls.  To 
this  river  Father  Hennipin  gave  the  name,"  etc.  He  reached  it  Nov.  21st, 
16S7.  This  is  the  stream  next  above  Rum  r.  on  the  same  side,  now  best  known 
as  Elk  r.  Bflt  Pike's  map  lettets  "  Leaf  R.  or  S'.  Francis  of  Carver  &  Hene- 
pen";  Long  has  it  S'.  Francis  r. ;  even  Nicollet  gives  Wichaniwa  or  St.  Fran- 
cis. Prof.  N.  H.  Winchell  remarks.  Hist.  Sketch  Expl.  and  Surv.  Minn.,  4to, 
p.  15  :  "  On  modern  maps  the  name  of  St.  Francis  is  applied  to  the  next  stream 
above  the  Rum,  and  that  may  have  been  the  river  to  which  Hennepin  referred 
in  his  journal,  since  by  a  portage  the  route  by  it  to  lake  Buade  is  much  less  than 
the  course  by  the  Rum  river,  and  the  Indians  may  have  followed  that  route."  I 
quite  agree  with  my  friend  the  professor  that  the  Sioux  who  took  charge  of 
Hennepin's  "  explorations,"  in  spite  of  all  the  saints  on  the  calendar,  may  have 
brought  him  that  way  from  Mille  Lacs  to  the  Mississippi ;  but  the  question  is 
not  by  what  river  he  came  ;  the  question  is,  Which  river  did  he  call  R.  de  o.. 
Franfois  and  map  by  this  name  ?  To  me  Hennepin  makes  it  perfectly  clear  that 
he  meant  Rum  r.  Thus  he  fixes  it  8  leagues=23|^  m,  above  the  falls,  which  is 
much  closer  to  the  actual  position  of  Rum  r.  than  such  a  befogged  geogra- 
pher often  comes  ;  item,  he  makes  his  St.  Franfois  r.  come  fron-.  Mille  Lacs,  as 
Rum  r.  does  and  the  other  one  does  not  (at  least  not  uninterrii'jtedly) ;  item,  his 
alternative  names,  r.  of  the  Issati  or  Nadoussiou,  point  directly  to  Rum  r. ; 
item,  for  a  clincher,  Hennepin's  map  letters  R.  de  St.  Frangois  precisely  along 
the  whole  course  of  Rum  r.  from  the  Mississippi  to  Lac  Buade,  and  traces 
the  other  river  too,  without  any  name.     You  seldom  find  a  case  clearer  than  this 


,.!■  1'. 


|i£ 


96 


THE   BADGER — CANOES   DESTROYED. 


one  raccoon  [Procyon  lotor]  ;  also  a  brelaw,'  an  animal  I  had 
never  before  seen.     Distance  15^  miles.' 

Oct.  4.th.  Rained  in  the  morning ;  but  the  wind  serving, 
we  embarked,  although  it  was  extremely  raw  and  cold. 
Opposite  the  mouth  of  Crow  river  [present  name]  we  found 
a  bark  canoe  cut  to  pieces  with  tomahawks,  and  the  paddles 
broken  on  shore ;  a  short  distance  higher  up  we  saw  five 
more,  and  continued  to  see  the  wrecks  until  we  found 
eight.  From  the  form  of  the  canoes  my  interpreter  pro- 
nounced them  to  be  Sioux;  and  some  broken  arrows  to 
be  the  Sauteurs.  The  paddles  were  also  marked  with  the 
Indian  sign  of  men  and  women  killed.  From  all  these  cir- 
cumstances we  drew  this  inference,  that  the  canoes  had  been 
the  vessels  of  a  party  of  Sioux  who  had  been  attacked  and 
all  killed  or  taken  by  the  Sauteurs.     Time  may  develop  this 

seems  to  me  to  I.e.  Carver  was  simply  mistaken  in  identifying  Hennepin's  St. 
Francis  with  the  other  river  instead  of  with  his  own  Rum  r. ;  and  this  maliden- 
tification  on  Carver's  part  seems  to  have  given  later  writers  an  unconscious  bias 
in  the  wrong  direction  ;  Pike  makes  the  same  mistake  further  on  in  this  book. 
The  strongest  counter-argument  to  my  view  is  that  I  differ  with  Nicollet  in  this 
case.  It  is  always  unsafe  to  disagree  with  that  model  of  caution  and  precision  ; 
but  I  must  venture  to  do  so  in  this  instance.  For  the  rest,  add  to  the  synonyms 
of  Rum  r.  the  aboriginal  name  Iskode  Wabo,  as  given  by  Nicbllet,  and  the 
variants  of  this  phrase  ;  also,  R.  de  I'Eau  de  Vie  of  Pike  ;  also,  Missayguani-sibi 
and  Brandy  r.  of  Beltrami.  F.  eati  de  vie  is  obviously  the  explanation  of  tlie 
"Audevies  Cr."  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  map,  i8"i,  though  the  stream  tiuis 
designated  looks  to  my  eye  too  low  down  for  Run.  r.  The  source  of  this  river 
is  noted  beyond,  where  the  case  of  Mille  Lacs  comes  up. 

•The  curious  word  "  brelaw,"  elsewhere  "brelau,"  which  we  owe  to  Pike, 
is  a  corruption  of  F.  blaireati,  badger.  This,  of  course,  originally  denoted  the 
European  badger,  Meles  taxus,  but  was  easily  transferred  to  the  generically  and 
specifically  different  American  badger,  Taxidea  americana.  Other  forms  of 
similar  perversity  are  braro,  brarow,  brairo,  braroca,  praro,  prarow,  etc.  See 
L.  and  C,  ed.  1893,  p.  64.  Pike's  original  editor  of  180;  iiad  blaireau,  cor- 
rectly, but  Pike  himself  seldom  got  any  F.  word  or  phrase  exactly  right. 

•  Less  than  this,  as  Crow  r.  is  not  yet  passed,  though  Pike  is  not  much  short 
of  that  point.  There  is  little  to  note  :  pass  Cloquet  or  Clouquet  isl. ;  camp  at 
head  of  Goodwin's  isl.  or  foot  of  Dayton  rapids  ;  a  small  body  of  water  to  the 
right  called  L.  Itaska,  not  to  be  confounded  with  L.  Itasca !  At  or  near  tlie 
mouth  of  Crow  r.  Pike  leaves  both  Hennepin  and  Anoka  cos. ;  he  then  has 
Wright  on  his  left  and  Sherburne  on  his  right.  Dayton,  Hennepin  Co.,  is 
at  the  mouth  of  Crow  r.     The  crossing  there  was  called  Slater's  ferry. 


ip 


THOMOMYS  TALPOIDES — CROW  AND   ELK   RIVERS.       9/ 

transaction.  My  interpreter  was  much  alarmed,  assuring  me 
that  it  was  probable  that  at  our  first  rencounter  with  the  Chip- 
eways  they  would  take  us  for  Sioux  traders,  and  fire  on  us  be- 
fore we  could  come  to  an  explanation ;  that  they  had  mur- 
dered three  Frenchmen  whom  they  found  on  the  shore  about 
this  time  last  spring ;  but  notwithstanding  his  information^ 
I  was  on  shore  all  the  afternoon  in  pursuit  of  elk.  Caught 
a  curious  little  animal  on  the  prairie,  which  my  Frenchman 
[Rousseau]  termed  a  prairie  mole,"  but  it  is  very  different 
from  the  mole  of  the  States.  Killed  two  geese,  one  pheas- 
ant [ruffed  grouse,  Bonasa  umbellus],  and  a  wolf.  Dis- 
tance i6  miles." 


"What  Pierre  Rousseau  called  a  "prairie  mole"  was  the  pocket-gopher  of 
this  region,  Thomomys  talpoides.  This  was  first  made  known  to  science  by  Dr. 
John  Richardson  in  his  paper  entitled  ' '  Short  Characters  of  a  few  Quadrupeds 
Procured  on  Capt.  Franklin's  late  Expedition,"  published  in  the  Zoological 
Journal,  III.  No.  12,  Jan. -Apr.  1828,  pp.  516-520.  He  named  it  CrUeliis 
talpoides,  taking  this  specific  name  from  its  mole-like  appearance,  and  after- 
wards called  it  Geomys  talpoides,  in  the  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  I.  1829, 
p.  204.  Among  the  peculiarities  of  the  animal,  and  indeed  of  the  whole  family 
to  which  it  belongs,  are  the  strictly  subterranean  habits,  and  the  possession  of 
large  cheek-pouches  external  to  the  mouth  and  lined  with  fur  inside  :  see 
Coues  and  Allen,  Monographs  N.  A.  Rodentia,  1877,  p.  623.  The  common 
mole  of  the  United  States,  from  which  Pike  saw  that  this  gopher  was  very  differ- 
ent, is  Scalops  aquaticus,  of  the  mammalian  order  Insectivora  (not  Rodentia). 

"  To  a  position  about  halfway  between  Elk  r.,  Sherburne  Co.,  and  Monti- 
cello,  Wright  Co. — say  Baker's  ferry,  at  head  of  Dimick's  or  Demick's  isl.,  and 
compare  note  at  date  of  Apr.  gth.  On  making  Dayton  rapids  Pike  passed  the 
mouth  of  Crow  r.,  which  falls  in  on  the  left  above  the  town  and  below  Dayton  isl. 
This  river  rises  in  Green  1.,  Kamdiyohi  Co.,  and. by  various  affluents  elsewhere, 
flows  about  E.  through  Meeker  and  Wright,  and  then  turns  N.E.,  separating  the 
latler  from  Hennepin  Co.  (This  must  not  be  confounded  with  Crow  Wing  r., 
much  higher  up  the  Mississippi.)  It  was  discovered  by  Carver  Nov.  20th,  1766, 
and  by  him  called  Goose  r.  Beltrami  chose  Rook's  r.  Nicollet  has  Karishon  or 
Crow  r.  This  river  needed  an  ornithologist  to  keep  from  mixing  up  those  birds 
so!  Besides  the  three  bird-names,  Beltrami  produced  Poanagoan-sibi  or  Sioux  r., 
as  he  says  it  was  called  by  the  "  Cypowais."  Elk  River,  41  m.  from  St.  Paul  by 
rail,  pop.  1,500,  is  the  seat  of  Sherburne  Co.  It  is  situuted  immediately  below 
the  mouth  of  Elk  r.  This  is  the  stream  charted  by  Pike  with  the  legend  "  Leaf 
R.  or  S'.  Francis  cf  Carver  &  Henepen":  see  for  this  case  note  '.  Pike  also 
calls  it  R.  des  Feuilles.  Allen  had  St.  Francis  or  Parallel  r.  Beltrami  said 
Kapitotigaya-sibi   or  Double  r.     Nicollet's  terms  Wichaniwa  and  St.  Francis 


98 


MONTICELLO— OTTER  CREEK. 


Oct.  5th.  Hard  water  and  ripples  all  day.  Passed  several 
old  Sioux  encampments,  all  fortified.  Found  five  litters  in 
which  sick  or  wounded  had  been  carried.  At  this  place 
a  hard  battle  was  fought  between  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs 
in  the  year  1800.     Killed  one  goose.     Distance  11  miles." 

Sunday,  Oct.  6th.  Early  in  the  morning  discovered  four 
elk  ;  they  swam  the  river.  I  pursued  them,  and  wounded 
one,  which  made  his  escape  into  a  marsh  ;  saw  two  droves 
of  elk.  I  kill  ^d  some  small  game  and  joined  the  boats  near 
night.  Fc  and  a  small  red  capot  hung  upon  a  tree ;  this  my 
interpreter  inr -ned  me  was  a  sacrifice  by  some  Indians  to 
the  bon  Dieu.  1  determined  to  lie  by  and  hunt  next  day. 
Killed  three  prairie-hens  [pinnated  grouse,  Tympanuchus 
americanus]  and  two  pheasants.  This  day  saw  the  first  elk. 
Distance  12  miles." 

Oct.  yth.  Lay  by  in  order  to  dry  my  corn,  clothing,  etc., 
and  to  have  an  investigation  into  the  conduct  of  my  ser- 
geant  [Kennerman],  against  whom  some  charges  were 
exhibited.  Sent  several  of  my  men  out  hunting.  I  went 
toward  evening  and  killed  some  prairie-hens ;  the  hunters 
were  unsuccessful.  Killed  three  prairie-hens  and  six 
pheasants. 

Oct.  8th.     Embarked  early  and  made  a  very  good  day's 

belong  to  the  main  (East)  fork  of  Elk  r. ,  now  commonly  called  the  St.  Francis ; 
he  names  the  other  fork  Kabitawi  (which  is  the  same  word  that  Beltrami  uses  in 
another  form).  Above  Elk  River  is  Otsego,  Wright  Co.,  with  Orano's  (Jameson 
and  Wilson)  isls.  below  and  Davis  isl.  above  it. 

"  To  vicinity  of  Monticello,  Wright  Co.  In  the  course  of  the  hard  water 
stemmed  to-day  are  Spring  rapids  and  Battle  rapids,  each  of  which  Pike  marks 
"  Ripple  "  on  his  map;  the  former  is  first  above  Djmick's  isl. ;  the  latter  is  above 
Brown's  isl.  and  Houghton's  flats  ;  and  the  name  no  doubt  commemorates  tlie 
Indian  fight  of  which  Pike  speaks.  The  rise  represented  by  the  hard  water  is 
about  25  feet,  bringing  the  Expedition  up  to  898  or  900  feet  above  sea-level. 
Nicollet's  Migadiwin  cr.  falls  in  on  the  left,  just  above  Monticello  ;  this  is  now 
known  as  Otter  cr.   Boom  isl.  is  just  below  the  ferry  at  Monticello. 

'•  To  some  obscure  point  about  one-third  of  the  way  from  Monticello  to  Clear 
Water.  It  is  past  Lane's  and  Cedar  isls.,  and  above  Cedar  rapids,  which  Tike 
marks  "  Ripple  "  on  his  map  (the  third  such  mark  above  his  Leaf  r.),  and  l)elo\v 
Silver  cr. ;  but  I  cannot  stick  a  pin  in  the  map,  as  there  is  no  named  place  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  ;  nearest  probably  R.  R.  station  Lund,  Wright  Co. 


-^-^T^rrran 


CLEAR  WATER   RIVER— THOUSAND   ISLANDS. 


99 


march  ;  had  but  three  rapids  to  pass  all  day.  Some  oak 
woodland  on  the  W.  side,  but  the  whole  bottom  covered 
with  prickly-ash.  I  made  it  a  practice  to  oblige  every  man 
to  march  who  complained  of  indisposition,  by  which  means 
I  had  some  flankers  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  who  were 
excellent  guards  against  surprises ;  they  also  served  as 
hunters.  We  had  but  one  raccoon  killed  by  all.  Distance 
20  miles.'* 

Oct.  gth.  Embarked  early ;  wind  ahead ;  barrens  and 
prairie.  Killed  one  deer  and  four  pheasants.  Distance 
3  miles.     [Camp  between  Plum  creek  and  St.  Augusta.] 

Oct.  loth.  Came  to  large  islands  and  strong  water  early 
in  the  morning.  Passed  the  place  at  which  Mr.  [Joseph] 
Reinville  and  Mons.  Perlier  [?]  wintered  in  1797.  Passed 
a  cluster  of  more  than  20  islands  in  the  course  of  four 
miles ;  these  I  called  Beaver  islands,  from  the  immense  sign 
of  those  animals ;  for  they  have  dams  on  every  island  and 
roads  from  them  every  two  or  three  rods.     I  would   here 

'*  Vicinity  of  Clear  Water  r.,  a  sizable  stream  which  separates  Wright  from 
Stearns  Co. ;  Kawakomik  or  Clear  Water  r.  of  Nicollet ;  Kawakonuk  r.  of  Owen; 
Ka-.vanibio-sibi  of  Beltrami ;  and  qu.  Little  Lake  r.  of  Carver's  map  ?  The 
whole  distance  from  Monticello  to  town  of  Clear  Water  at  the  mouth  of  this 
river  is  only  19  m.,  and  thence  to  St.  Cloud,  14  m.  =33  m.  for  which  Pike  allows 
i2-(-2o-}-3-f-i6^=5i/^in.  This  is  over  his  average  excess,  and  the  case  is 
complicated  by  the  position  assigned  for  the  wintering  station  of  the  persons 
named  on  the  loth.  Pike  lays  down  Clear  Water  r.,  and  his  map  legends,  a 
little  Wow  this,  "Wintering  Grounds  of  M"".  Potier,  1797;  &  M'.  Dickson, 
1805-1806."  The  names  do  not  correspond  exactly  with  the  text,  and  as  the 
wintering  ground  of  the  text  was  not  passed  till  the  loth,  when  Pike  was  cer- 
tainly above  the  Clear  Water,  this  wintering  ground  is  simply  legended  too  low 
on  the  map.  Compare  Apr.  7th,  beyond,  when  Pike  reaches  the  post  of  Mr. 
Dickson  and  the  other  person,  there  called  Paulier,  in  one  day's  voyage  from  his 
ftockade  on  Swan  r.  As  there  explained,  the  post  in  question  was  only  4  m, 
below  the  head  of  Pike's  Beaver  isls.,  thus  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Augusta,  while 
Pike's  station  of  the  8th  was  at  or  near  Clear  Water.  To  reach  this  town  and 
river  Pike  passes  Bear  isl. ,  Smiler's  rapids,  and  on  his  left  two  small  streams. 
Tlie  lower  one  of  these  is  Silver  cr.,  coming  from  a  small  lake  between  Silver 
Creek  Siding  and  a  place  called  Hasty.  The  upper  one  of  these  is  Bend  cr.  of 
Nicollet  (discharge  of  Fish  1.),  so  named  from  falling  into  what  was  a  remarkable 
bend  of  the  Mississippi,  now  a  cut-off  with  a  large  (Boynton's)  island.  This 
place  is  3  m.  below  Clear  Water,  in  Sect.  6,  T.  122,  R.  26,  5th  M. 


h; 


V 


lOO 


THE  BEAVER— ST.   CLOUD — SAUK   RAPIDS. 


attempt  a  description  of  this  wonderful  animal,  and  its 
admirable  system  of  architecture,  were  not  the  subject 
already  exhausted  by  the  numerous  travelers  who  have 
written  on  this  subject.  Encamped  at  the  foot  of  the 
Grand  [Sauk]  Rapids.  Killed  two  geese,  five  ducks,  and 
four  pheasants.     Distance  i6}4  miles." 

Oct.  nth.  Both  boats  passed  the  worst  of  the  rapids  by 
eleven  o'clock,  but  we  were  obliged  to  wade  and  lift  them 
over  rocks  where  there  was  not  a  foot  of  water,  when  at  times 
the  next  step  would  be  in  water  over  our  heads.  In  conse- 
quen  if  this  our  boats  were  frequently  in  imminent  danger 
of  ocing  bilged  on  the  rocks.  About  five  miles  above  the 
rapids  our  large  boat  was  discovered  to  leak  so  fast  as  to 
renc"  -  it  ;  ';  "sary  to  unload  her,  which  we  did.  Stopped 
the  leak  and  reloaded.  Near  a  war-encampment  I  found 
a  painted  buckskin  and  a  piece  of  scarlet  cloth,  suspended 
by  the  limb  of  a  tree ;  this  I  supposed  to  be  a  sacrifice  to 
Matcho  Maniton  \sic\  to  render  their  enterprise  successful ; 
but  I  took  the  liberty  of  invading  the  rights  of  his  diabolical 
majesty,  by  treating  them  as  the  priests  of  old  have  often 
done — that  is,  converting  the  sacrifice  to  my  own  use. 
Killed  only  two  ducks.     Distance  8  miles." 

"St.  Cloud,  seat  of  Stearns  Co.;  population  8,000;  East  St.  Cloud  opp.; 
bridges  ;  railroads  converging  by  five  tracks  ;  rapids  of  30,000  horse-power, 
dammed  and  utilized.  This  is  a  notable  place,  likely  to  become  more  so.  The 
whole  descent  from  the  upper  part  of  the  tovtrn  of  Sauk  Rapids  to  the  lower 
part  of  St.  Cloud,  a  distance  of  some  5  m.,  is  24  feet  ;  of  which  Sauk  rapids 
proper  fall  17  or  18  feet  in  the  course  of  a  mile.  Pike  camps  at  the  foot  of 
these.  "Grand  Rapids"  of  the  above  text  are  mapped  by  Pike  as  "  Big 
Rapids,"  the  term  also  used  by  Lewis  and  Clark  ;  they  are  Nicollet's  Second 
rapids.  When  I  last  saw  the  place  it  was  not  easy  to  discern  the  natural  course 
of  the  river,  it  was  so  jammed  with  logging-booms.  The  "  more  than  20 
islands  "  which  Pike  passed  to-day  are  in  part  included  in  the  cluster  called  the 
Archipelago  by  Beltrami,  now  known  as  the  Thousand  isls.,  smallest  and  most 
numerous  in  the  expansion  of  the  river  just  below  St.  Cloud  and  above  Mos- 
quito rapids  ;  the  latter,  not  bad,  are  between  a  large  island  on  the  right  and 
a  creek  that  makes  in  on  the  left  (S.  36,  T,  124,  R.  28,  5th  M.).  A  short  dis- 
tance below  these  islands,  probably  not  far  from  Mosquito  rapids,  and  thus 
somewhere  about  opposite  St.  Augusta,  was  the  above-named  wintering  iilace. 

'«  The  whole  distance  b/  river  from  St.  Cloud  to  Pike  rapids,  where  he  stops 


WATAB   RAPIDS  AND   RIVER. 


lOI 


nd  its 
subject 
)  have 
of  the 
ks,  and 

pids  by 
:t  them 
it  times 
1  conse- 
:  danger 
>ove  the 
st  as  to 
Stopped 
I  found 
spended 
Tifice  to 
ccessful ; 
liaboHcal 
ve  often 
nvn  use. 


Oct.  J2th,  Hard  ripples  in  the  morning.  Passed  a  nar- 
row  rocky  place  [Watab  rapids],  after  which  we  had  good 
water.  Our  large  boat  again  sprung  a  leak,  and  we  were 
again  obliged  to  encamp  early  and  unload.  Killed  one  deer, 
one  wolf,  two  geese,  and  two  ducks.     Distance  12^  miles." 

to  build  his  winter-quarters,  is  only  33  m.  He  makes  this  8-|-i2^-f"29+i7+ 
5=71/^!  As  there  is  no  possible  mistake  about  the  place  we  have  brought 
him  to,  or  about  that  where  we  shall  drop  him,  an  error  of  over  100  per  cent,  is 
evident  in  the  mileage  of  the  iith-i5th.  The  text  gives  but  one  named  point 
(his  Clear  r.)  to  consider  for  the  required  adjustment ;  but  there  are  seven 
definite  named  rivers  in  this  course  and  several  rapids  ;  so  that  we  can  check 
him  at  every  few  miles,  and  only  need  to  cut  down  his  mileage  a  little  more 
than  one-half.  Camp  of  the  nth  ("  8  "=4  m.)  is  a  little  above  the  mouth  of 
Sauk  r.  On  heading  Sauk  rapids,  Pike  passes  the  town  of  Sauk  Rapids,  seat 
of  Benton  Co.,  75  m.  by  rail  from  St.  Paul.  It  is  a  smaller  place  than  St. 
Cloud,  pop.  i,20o,  but  enjoys  the  same  30,000  horse-power  of  the  i8  feet  to 
the  mile  fall  of  the  Miss.  r.  Sauk  r.  falls  in  from  the  W.,  opposite  the  upper  part 
of  the  town  ;  Pike  elsewhere  calls  it  R.  aux  Saukes,  and  maps  it  as  Sack  r. ;  so 
does  Long,  though  he  calls  the  Indians  Sakawes  and  Sakawis  :  Nicollet's  map 
has  Osakis  r.;  other  variants  of  the  name  are  Sac,  Sacque,  Saque,  Sawk,  Saukee, 
Sawkee,  Osaukee,  Osauki,  etc.  The  most  elaborate  way  of  spelling  Sauk  that 
I  have  found  is  Sassassaouacotton.  The  form  Ozaukee  is  adopted  by  Verwyst, 
Wis.  Hist.  Soc,  XII.  1892,  p.  396,  where  it  is  said  that  this  and  Sauk  are  cor- 
rupted from  oza^g,  meaning  those  who  live  at  a  river's  mouth. 

"About  6  m.,  to  a  position  near  the  mouth  of  Little  Rock  r.,  above  Watab 
rapids  and  the  town  of  that  name  in  Benton  Co.  Pike  first  passes  on  his  right, 
about  a  mile  from  camp,  a  small  stream  whose  name  has  not  reached  me  (it 
empties  in  the  S.  W.  %  of  Sect.  15,  T.  36,  R.  31,  4th  M.).  In  another  mile  he 
passes  Little  Sauk  r.,  a  stream  like  its  namesake,  but  small.  This  is  called 
Watab  r.  by  Nicollet,  Owen,  and  Brower,  Wadub  r.  by  Schoolcraft,  Wattah  r. 
by  Allen.  This  little  river  was  formerly  important  as  the  most  tangible  part  of 
the  shadowy  Sioux-Chippewa  boundary  of  1825.  Starting  from  the  Chippewa 
r.,  the  line  cut  across  most  rivers,  at  odd  places  the  savages  no  doubt  understood, 
but  geographers  never  did.  It  crossed  the  St.  Croix  at  "Standing  Cedars" 
below  the  falls,  struck  near  the  head  of  Coon  cr.,  crossed  Rum  r.  at  or  near  its 
principal  forks,  hit  a  "  Point  of  Woods  "  somewhere,  crossed  Leaf  (Elk)  r.  low 
down,  and  reached  the  Mississippi  opp.  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Sauk,  which 
it  followed  up,  and  then  went  N.  W.,  passed  past  Swan  and  Little  Elk  rivers  to 
the  watershed  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  which  it  followed  approx.  N.  to 
the  Otter  Tail  and  Leech  1.  traverse.  (See  Allen's  map.)  The  "narrow  rocky 
place  "  passed  is  Watab  rapids,  and  the  town  of  Watab  is  just  above  these,  on  the 
creek  to  the  right,  5  m,  above  Sauk  Rapids.  Sauk  and  Watab  are  respectively  the 
"  2nd  "  and  "  3rd  "  rapids  of  Nicollet's  map.  The  word  watab  means  spruce  ; 
or,  rather,  as  follows  ;  "  The  small  roots  of  the  spruce  tree  afford  the  wattap. 


102 


PIKE  S   LAKE  AND   CLEAR   RIVERS. 


C^ 


Sunday,  Oct.  13th.  Embarked  early  and  came  on  well. 
Passed  [first  a  river  on  the  right,  which  we  named  Lake 
river  (now  called  Little  Rock  river)  and  then]  a  handsome 
little  river  on  the  east,  which  we  named  Clear  river  [now 
Platte] ;  water  good.  Killed  one  deer,  one  beaver,  two 
minks,  two  geese,  and  one  duck.  Fair  winds.  Discovered 
one  buffalo  sign.     Distance  29  miles." 

Oct.  iph.  Ripples  a  considerable  [part  of  the]  way.  My 
hunters  killed  three  deer,  four  geese,  and  two  porcupines. 
When  hunting  discovered  a  trail  which  I  supposed  to  have 
been  made  by  the  savages.  I  followed  it  with'  much  pre- 
caution, and  at  length  started  a  large  bear  feeding  on  the 

with  which  the  bark  [of  birchen  canoes]  is  sewed  ;  ,  .  .  Bark,  some  spare 
wattap,  and  gum,  are  always  carried  in  each  canoe,"  Alex.  Henry,  Travels, 
1761-66,  N.  Y.,  8vo,  1809  p.  14,  In  this  matter  we  also  have  the  support  of 
the  highest  possible  authority  ;  for  the  Century  Dictionary,  representing  tlie 
acme  of  English  scholarship,  defines  watap  or  watapeh  as  "the  long  slender 
roots  of  the  white  spruce,  Picea  alba,  which  are  used  by  canoe-makers  in  north- 
western North  America  for  binding  together  the  strips  of  birch-bark."  (/, 
Baraga's  Otchipwe  Diet.,  1880,  Pt.  2,  p.  404,  s.  v.  vjatab.  Pike  charts  Watab 
rapids  ;  see  his  map,  place  marked  "  Ripple,"  first  above  his  "  Little  Sack  R." 
This  is  where  his  boat  sprung  a  leak,  and  he  did  not  get  much  further. 

"  Say  about  14  ra.,  to  a  position  between  Platte  r.  and  Spunk  r.  Soon  after 
decamping.  Pike  passed  a  river  he  does  not  mention  above,  but  which  he  else- 
where names  Lake  r.,  and  maps  conspicuously  in  connection  with  a  cer- 
tain small  sheet  of  water  he  names  Elk  1.  These  are  now  known  as  Little  Kock 
r.  and  Little  Rock  1.  The  stream  is  laid  down  by  Nicollet  with  the  additional 
name  of  Pikwabic  r.  It  falls  into  a  remarkable  horseshoe  bend  of  tlie  river, 
which  has  not  cut  off  an  island  since  the  charts  I  use  were  drawn.  Opposite 
this  bend  there  is  a  place  called  Brockway,  in  Stearns  Co.  Of  Clear  r.  as  above, 
and  also  so  charted  by  Pike,  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  Allen,  Pike  elsewhere  says 
that  it  "is  a  beautiful  little  stream,  of  about  80  yards  in  width,  and  heads  in 
some  swamps  and  small  lakes  on  which  the  Sauteaux  of  Lower  Red  Cedar  Lake 
and  Sandy  Lake  frequently  come  to  hunt."  It  is  Pekushino  r.  of  Nicollet, 
Bekozino-sibi  and  Pines  Tail  r.  of  Beltrami,  now  commonly  called  Platte  r.,  and 
occasionally  Flat  r.,  as  on  an  1850  map  of  Minnesota  before  me  ;  it  heads  in  the 
region  about  Mille  Lacs.  At  the  place  where  the  railroad  crosses  Platte  or  Clear 
r.  is  Royal  ton,  in  Bellevue  township,  Morrison  Co.  One-third  of  a  mile  below 
its  mouth  is  the  line  between  Steams  and  Morrison  cos.,  on  first  section-line 
above  town-line  126-7.  One  of  the  two  rivers  here  noted  is  Cold  r.  of  Carver, 
1767  ;  but  I  am  uncertain  which  one.  McNeal's  ferry  over  the  Mississippi  is 
about  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of  the  Platte. 


pike's  wolf,  buffalo,  and  rocky  creeks.     103 


jn  well. 
d  Lake 
ndsome 
er  [now 
'er,  two 
icovered 

ay.  My 
rcupines. 
to  have 
uch  pre- 
y  on  the 

some  spare 
ry,  Travels, 
e  support  of 
esenting  the 
long  slender 
ers  in  north- 
-bark."  Cf. 
harts  Watab 
tie  Sack  R." 
her. 

Soon  after 
lich  he  else- 
Iwith  a    cer- 
s  Little  Rock 
Ihe  adilitional 
]of  the  river, 
In.     Opposite 
Ir  r.  as  above, 
Isewhere  says 
and  heads  in 
Cedar  lake 
of  Nicollet, 
'latte  r.,  and 
heads  in  the 
flatte  or  Clear 
a  mile  below 
it  section-line 
[r.  of  Carver, 
;ississippi  is 


carcass  of  a  deer ;  he  soon  made  his  escape.  Yesterday  we 
came  to  the  first  timbered  land  above  the  falls.  Made  the 
first  discovery  of  bear  since  we  left  St.  Louis,  excepting 
what  we  saw  three  miles  below  St.  Peters.     Distance   17 

miles." 

"  Making  the  requisite  adjustment  of  this,  we  set  Pike  down  in  the  N.  E.  % 
of  Sect.  29,  T.  128,  R.  29,  5th  M.;  this  will  give  us  3  m.  to  fill  the  bill  of  the 
"five"  to-morrow.  To-day's  itinerary  furnishes  some  nice  points  which  we 
must  determine  with  precision — not  for  their  intrinsic  importance,  but  for  their 
significance  in  connection  with  Pike's  winter-quarters.  The  matter  must  be 
attended  to  here,  though  the  text  has  not  a  word  about  it.  But  Pike  elsewhere 
speaks  of  three  creeks  along  here,  above  his  Clear  r.  =  Platte,  and  below  his  Pine 
cr.=S\van  r.,  near  which  he  builds  his  stockade.  Pike's  map  has  four,  on  the 
left,  beginning  above  Clear  r.:  (i)  Wolf  cr.;  (2)  a  creek  ;  (3)  Buffalo  cr.;  (4) 
Rocky  cr. — all  names  of  his  own,  none  used  now.  Proceeding  up  from  Platte= 
Clear  r.,  we  have  on  the  left  in  succession  :  (i)  Spunk  r.,  whose  mouth  is  in 
the  S.  E.  X  °f  Sect.  22,  T.  127,  R.  29,  5th  M.  This  is  the  Wolf  cr.  of  Pike's, 
item  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  map,  1814  ;  mapped,  no  name,  Allen  ;  Zakatagana- 
sibi  of  Beltrami ;  Sagatagon  or  Spunk  r.  of  Nicollet  ;  Spunk  brook  of  various 
maps.  The  native  name  which  we  have  translated  means  some  sort  of  touch- 
wood or  punk,  which  may  be  more  plentiful  hereabouts  than  elsewhere,  or  of 
better  quality.  (2)  A  rivulet  for  which  I  can  find  no  name,  not  even  on  the 
local  maps,  and  which  is  too  insignificant  to  appear  at  all  on  most  maps  ;  Pike's 
traces  it  without  name.  I  will  call  it  Maple  brook,  because  it  falls  in  behind 
Maple  isl.,in  Sect.  17  of  the  T.,  R,,  and  M.  last  said.  Maple  isl.  is  sizable,  and 
locally  well  known  ;  either  this  or  the  little  round  one  close  by  is  probably  Bel- 
trami's "  Island  of  the  Sun."  (3)  Two  Rivers,  or  Two  r.,  or  Twin  r.,  as  the 
next  stream  is  called,  which  empties  about  the  center  of  Sect.  8  of  the  same  T., 
R. ,  and  M . ,  hardly  a  mile  above  Maple  brook.  This  is  the  one  Pike  maps  by  the 
name  of  Buflalo  cr. ;  it  is  also  Buffaloe  cr.  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  map  ;  and  the 
Kanizotygoga  of  Beltrami.  This  is  a  sizable  stream,  giving  name  to  Two  Rivers 
Township,  and  does  not  fall  in  behind  any  island.  {4)  Little  Two  Rivers,  or 
Two  Rivers  brook,  which  falls  in  about  half  a  mile  higher  up,  in  the  same 
Section,  behind  an  island.  (5)  A  nameless  and  utterly  insignificant  brook,  which 
falls  in  at  McDougal's  eddy,  behind  an  island,  in  the  S.  'E.  ^  ol  Sect.  5  of  the 
same  T.,  R.,  and  M.  I  find  it  correctly  laid  down  on  a  Morrison  Co.  map,  on 
a  scale  of  2  inches  to  the  mile  ;  but  it  does  not  appear  on  the  inch-to-mile  charts 
I  mostly  follow.  (6)  Hay  cr.,  which  most  maps  run  into  Little  Two  Rivers, 
but  which  is  quite  distinct,  with  the  brook  (5)  intervening.  Hay  cr.  comes 
southward  along  the  E.  border  of  Swan  River  township,  turns  S.  E.  across 
Sect.  31  of  T.  128,  R.  29,  thence  enters  Sect.  5  of  T.  127,  R.  29,  and  falls  into 
the  Mississippi  behind  the  three-cornered  isl.  which  there  lies  opp.  some  rapids 
next  above  McDougal's  eddy.  The  only  question  seems  to  be,  whether  Pike's 
Rocky  cr.  is  Little  Two  Rivers  or  Hay  cr.  ;  but  after  pretty  close  scrutiny  of 


■:M 


104 


FOURTH,   KNIFE,   OR  PIKE   RAPIDS. 


Oct.  15th.  Ripples  all  day.  In  the  morning  the  large 
boat  came  up,  and  I  once  more  got  my  party  together ;  they 
had  been  detained  by  taking  in  the  game.  Yesterday  and 
this  day  passed  some  skirts  of  good  land,  well  timbered, 
swamps  of  hemlock,  and  white  pine.  Water  very  hard.  The 
river  became  shallow  and  full  of  islands.  We  encamped  on 
a  beautiful  point  on  the  west,  below  a  fall  [Fourth,  Knife,  or 
Pike  rapids]  of  the  river  over  a  bed  of  rocks,  through  which 
we  had  two  narrow  shoots  to  make  our  way  the  next  day. 
Killed  two  deer,  five  ducks,  and  two  geese.  This  day's 
march  made  me  think  seriously  of  our  wintering  ground  and 
leaving  our  large  boats.     Distance  five  miles." 

Oct.  i6tk.  When  we  arose  in  the  morning  found  that 
snow  had  fallen  during  the  night ;  the  ground  was  covered, 
and  it  continued  to  snow.  This  indeed  was  but  poor  encour- 
agement for  attacking  the  rapids,  in  which  we  were  certain  to 
wade  to  our  necks.  I  was  determined,  however,  if  possible, 
to  make  la  riviere  de  Corbeau  [now  Crow  Wing  river],  the 
highest  point  ever  made  by  traders  in  their  bark  canoes. 
We    embarked,    and    after    four  hours'  work    became  so 


'^£ 


the  country  thereabouts,  I  incline  to  decide  in  favor  of  Little  Two  Rivers,  and 
could  give  various  reasons  for  this  identification.  Pike  maps  four  rapids,  in 
quick  succession,  above  his  Rocky  cr.  Two  of  these  I  suppose  to  be  those  now 
known  as  Blanchard's  and  McDougal's,  both  passed  on  the  14th  ;  a  third  is 
surmounted  on  the  15th,  but  the  fourth  finishes  Pike's  boat-voyage  :  see  next 
note. 

'"  Three  miles,  to  camp  at  the  foot  of  Knife  or  Pike  rapids,  W.  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  about  the  S.  border  of  Sect.  7,  T.  128,  R,  29,  5th  M.  These 
are  the  4th  or  Knife  rapids  of  Nicollet,  apparently  so  called  from  the  nar- 
rowness of  the  two  channels  into  which  the  river  is  divided  for  most  of  their 
extent  by  an  island,  which  is  what  Pike's  text  above  means  by  the  "  two  narrow 
shoots."  The  designation  of  Pike  rapids  is  not  recent ;  it  occurs  on  the  Allen 
map  pub.  1834,  and  no  doubt  this  antedates  the  time  that  the  next  creek  above 
Swan  r.  was  named  Pike  cr. ,  and  the  township  next  above  Swan  River  township 
was  named  Pike  Creek  township.  The  ascent  is  loor  11  feet  to  the  mouth  of 
Swan  r. ;  and  this  is  4  m.  below  the  city  of  Little  Falls.  Little  Falls  is  given 
as  115  m.  by  the  river  from  Minneapolis,  and  as  105  m.  by  rail  from  St.  Paul 
(N.  P.  R.  R.).  We  know  where  Pike  sleeps  to-night  within  a  few  rods,  and 
shall  be  able  to  locate  his  stockade  with  a  "  probable  error"  of  no  yards,  feet. 
or  inches. 


Ui- 


pike's  pine  cree;c  is  swan  river. 


105 


large 
;  they 
ly  and 
ibered, 
I.   The 
ped  on 
nife,  or 
I  which 
xt  day. 
s  day's 
and  and 

nd  that 
covered, 
rencour- 
ertain  to 
possible, 
ver],  the 
:  canoes, 
came  so 


benumbed  with  cold  that  our  limbs  were  perfectly  useless. 
VV^c  put  to  shore  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  way  up  the  rapids.  Built  a  large  fire  ;  and  then 
discovered  that  our  boats  were  nearly  half-full  of  water,  both 
having  sprung  such  large  leaks  as  to  oblige  me  to  keep  three 
hands  bailing.  My  Sergeant  Kennerman,  one  of  the  stoutest 
men  I  ever  knew,  broke  a  blood-vessel  and  vomited  nearly 
two  quarts  of  blood.  One  of  my  corporals,  Bradley,  also 
evacuated  nearly  a  pint  of  blood  when  he  attempted  to  void 
his  urine.  These  unhappy  circumstances,  in  addition  to  the 
inability  of  four  other  men,  whom  we  were  obliged  to  leave 
on  shore,  convinced  me  that  if  I  had  no  regard  for  my  own 
health  and  constitution,  I  should  have  some  for  those  poor 
fellows,  who  were  killing  themselves  to  obey  my  orders. 
After  we  had  breakfasted  and  refreshed  ourselves,  we  went 
down  to  our  boats  on  the  rocks,  where  I  was  obliged  to  leave 
them.  I  then  informed  my  men  that  we  would  return  to 
the  camp,  and  there  leave  some  of  the  party  and  our  large 
boats.  This  information  was  pleasing,  and  the  attempt  to 
reach  the  camp  soon  accomplished. 

My  reasons  for  this  step  have  partly  been  already  stated. 
The  necessity  of  unloading  and  refitting  my  boats,  the 
beauty  and  convenience  of  the  spot  for  building  huts,  the 
fine  pine  trees  for  peroques,  and  the  quantity  of  game,  were 
additional  inducements.  We  immediately  unloaded  our 
boats  and  secured  their  cargoes.  In  the  evening  I  went  out 
upon  a  small  but  beautiful  creek  [/.  e..  Pine  creek  of  Pike, 
now  Swan  river"]  which  empties  into  the  falls  [on  the  W. 


""Lieu*-  Pikes,  Block  House  or  Post,  for  the  Winter  1805-1806"  is 
legended  on  the  pub.  map,  and  marked  by  a  zigzag  line  snug  up  under  his  Pine 
or.  (now  Swan  r.).  The  orig.  MS.  map,  now  on  file  in  the  Engineer  Office  of 
the  War  Dept.,  is  large  enough  to  show  the  exact  spot,  on  which  is  delineated  a 
stockade  36  feet  square,  with  a  blockhouse  on  the  N.  W.  and  another  on  the 
S.  E.  corner  of  the  structure.  Notwithstanding  such  precise  indicia,  the  site 
has  been  vaguely  stated  by  various  authors,  and  even  shifted  down  to  Two  Rivers 
by  so  careful  and  usually  correct  a  writer  as  riy  friend  the  Hon.  J.  V.  Brower, 
who  is  clearly  in  error  in  stating  that  "  the  south  branch  of  Two  Rivers  was 
named  Pine  creek,  and  the  other  Second  creek,"  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  Vll.,  Mis- 


,3 


^;i 


io6 


LOCATION  OF  PIKE'S  STOCKADE. 


side],  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  pine  trees  to  make  canoes. 
Saw  five  deer,  and  killed  one  buck  weighing  137  po'nuls. 
By  my  leaving  men  at  this  place,  and  from  the  great 
titles  of  game  in  its  vicinity,  I  was  insured  plenty  of  provi- 
sion for  my  return  voyage.  In  the  party  [to  be]  left  behind 
was  one  hunter,  to  be  continually  employed,  who  would 
keep  our  stock  of  salt  provisions  good.  Distance  233^^ 
[about  III]  miles  above  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony. 

sissippi  R.  and  its  Source,  8vo.,  Minneapolis,  1893,  p,  126.  This  is  simply  au 
obiter  dictum,  by  inadvertence.  I  had  satisfied  myself  of  the  true  site  within  a 
few  rods,  when  I  first  learned  from  Prof.  N.  H.  VVinchell,  Ste.te  Geologist  of 
Minnesota,  that  traces  of  the  building  had  been  discovered  by  Judge  Nathan 
Richardson,  Mayor  of  Little  Falls,  Minn.  On  writing  to  this  gentlemaii,  I 
received  a  prompt  reply,  as  follows  : 

Little  Falls,  Minn.,  Feb.  24th,  1894. 
Elliott  Coues,  Esq.,  Washington,  D.  C. 

My  Dear  Sir  :     Yours  of  the  21st  inst.  is  received  making  inquiry  ah       ny 
discovering  the  location  of  a  fort  built  by  Zebulon  M.  Pike  in  the  fall  '. 

The  location  is  on  the  West  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River  on  Governr 
division  described  as  Lot  No.  i,  Sec.  No.  7,  in  Township  No.  128  North,  of 
Range  No.  29  West,  of  the  5th  Principal  Meridian,  near  the  S.  E.  corner  of 
said  Lot  No.  I,  and  near  80  rods  south  from  the  mouth  of  Swan  river  anil  four 
miles  south  of  this  city.  I  settled  at  this  place  in  1855.  I  wrote  a  history  of 
this  county  in  1876.  Then  in  1880  I  revised  it.  Before  writing  the  revision  in 
1 880  I  looked  over  the  books  in  our  State  Historical  Society,  where  I  found  an 
account  of  Pike's  Expedition  up  into  this  region  of  country  that  year.  His 
description  of  the  location  was  so  plain  and  explicit  that  I  had  no  trouble  in 
finding  it.  At  that  time  there  were  no  logs  or  timber  left.  The  place  was 
plainly  marked  by  a  pile  of  stone,  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  haycock,  of  which 
the  chimney  or  fire-place  was  built.  The  fort  was  built  of  logs.  The  bottom 
layer  was  imbedded  about  one-half  their  size  into  the  ground  when  built.  The 
groove  in  the  earth  showed  very  plain  when  I  first  visited  the  place.  As  near 
as  I  could  judge  the  building  was  40  feet  square.  Built  just  on  the  brink  of  a 
slight  elevation,  as  described  by  Mr.  Pike  in  his  narrative.  Afterward  in 
speaking  about  the  location  of  Pike's  Fort  to  an  old  settler,  Samuel  Lee,  now 
residing  at  Long  Prairie  in  this  State,  he  told  me  that  he  had  been  at  the  place 
many  years  before,  and  when  he  was  first  at  the  place  the  bottom  tier  of  logs 
were  still  there.  I  visited  the  spot  two  years  ago  for  the  purpose  of  getting  one 
of  the  stones  that  were  used  to  build  the  fire-place,  and  took  one  that  will  weigh 
about  75  pounds,  which  I  am  keeping  as  a  relic.  The  pile  of  stone  is  gelling 
scattered  about ;  the  ground  has  never  been  cleared  and  broken  up,  but  is  used 
as  a  pasture.  Unless  something  durable  is  put  up  soon  to  mark  the  location  all 
trace  of  it  will  be  obliterated.     This  country  commenced  to  settle  with  farmers 


! 


.,       ■f.,-^-if^i(jv 


EXAMINATION   OF   PIKE'S  STOCKADE, 


lOf 


canoes. 

t 

f  provi- 
,  behind 
)  would 

e  233K' 


i  simply  au 
te  within  a 
leologist  uf 


ge 


Nathan 


entlema:.,  1 

\th,  1894. 

ry  aV       tiy 

all 

rnr 

28  North,  of 
E.  corner  of 
rer  anil  four 
a  history  of 
e  revision  in 
e  I  f  ounil  an 
|t  year.     His 
10  trouble  in 
le  place  was 
[ck,  of  which 
The  bottom 
built.    The 
;e.     As  near 
lie  brink  of  a 
.ftcrward   in 
lel  Lee,  now 
at  the  place 
tier  of  logs 
,f  getting  one 
iat  will  weigh 
me  is  getting 
,,  but  is  used 
location  all 
Iwith  farmers 


Oft.  lyth.  It  continued  to  snow.  I  walked  out  in  the 
morning  and  killed  four  bears,  and  my  hunter  three  dcers. 
Felled  our  trees  for  canoes  and  commenced  working  on 
them. 

Oct.  1 8th,     Stopped  hunting  and  put  every  hand  to  work. 

in  1850,  and  has  become  quite  well  settled  up.  I  will  say  before  closing  that 
the  I  iijiids  at  the  foot  of  which  he  built  the  fort  bear  the  name  of  Pike  rapids,  so 
named  in  honor  of  him.  1  will  send  you  a  copy  of  our  extra  paper  [Daily 
Transcript,  of  Little  Falls],  issued  the  1st  of  January.  If  I  have  omitted  any- 
thing that  you  may  wish  to  know  write  me  a(;ain. 

Yuurs  very  respectfully, 

[Signed]        N.  RicHARDSoN. 

Jiulge  Richardson  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of  recovering  and  making  known  the 
spot  in  modern  times.  The  Hist.  Up.  Miss.  Vail.,  pub.  Miuieap.  1881,  treat- 
ing; Morrison  Co.  in  Chap,  cxxxviii,  has  on  p.  586  a  short  nutice  of  the  location, 
presumably  upon  Judge  Richardson's  data,  as  the  publishers'  preface  makes 
general  acknowledgments  of  indebtedness  to  him.  In  Oct.,  1886,  the  place  was 
vioited  by  Mr,  T.  H.  Lewis,  at  the  instance  of  Mr.  A.  J.  Hill  of  St.  Paul,  and 
through  the  friendly  attentions  of  the  latter  I  am  put  in  possession  of  extracts 
and  tracings  from  Mr.  Lewis'  notebook,  made  on  the  spot  at  the  date  said, 
when  he  found  the  extant  remains.  Mr.  Lewis  identified  the  site  upon  his  own 
observations,  not  being  at  the  time  informed  of  the  earlier  discovery.  So  inter- 
esting a  spot  .should  be  permanently  marked  before  all  traces  of  it  are  obliter- 
ated, and  I  hope  Judge  Richardson  will  interest  himself  to  see  that  this  is  done. 
It  need  not  be  an  expensive  or  elaborate  monument ;  probably  the  stones  of  the 
old  chimney  and  fire-place,  now  scattered  about,  would  answer  the  purpose  if 
they  were  solidly  piled  up. 

Postscript.— Z«V//^/(j//j,  Minn.,  Sept.  8th.  1894.— I  have  this  day  visited  the 
spot  in  person,  accompanied  by  Judge  Richardson  and  Mrs.  Coues.  We  have 
piled  up  the  rocks  in  a  conspicuous  heap.  I  do  not  recognize  any  trace  of  the 
original  woodwork,  or  of  the  gro md-plan  of  the  structure,  except  the  place  of 
the  chimney ;  but  the  site  is  unquestionable.  To  reach  it,  you  go  down  the 
main  road  from  Little  Falls,  about  4  m.  along  the  W.  side  of  the  Miss,  r., 
crossing  Pike  cr.  and  next  Swan  r. ;  a  few  rods  beyond  the  latter,  turn  to  the  left 
into  Simon  Kurtzman's  cornfield,  through  bars,  and  keep  on  due  E.  to  the 
river.  You  will  see  the  cairn  we  have  made  in  the  following  position  :  Sect. 
7.  T.  128,  R.  29,  5th  M.,  in  S.  E.  corner  of  Lot  No.  i,  80  rods  E.  of  Simon 
Kurtzman's  house,  about  80  rods  S.  S.  E.  of  the  mouth  of  Swan  r.,  near  the  E. 
border  of  the  cornfield,  30  paces  back  from  the  brink  of  the  Mississippi,  50 
yards  S.  by  E.  of  a  lone  pine  tree  50  feet  high,  on  a  flat  piece  of  high  ground 
in  a  copse  of  scattered  scrub  oaks,  overgrown  with  brush  and  weeds.  Letter 
on  the  subject  over  my  signature  in  Little  Falls  Daily  Transcript,  Sept.  10, 
i8g4,  urging  the  erection  of  a  monument. 


io8 


BUILDING  THE   STOCKADE — HUNTING. 


M 


Cut  60  logs  for  huts  and  worked  at  the  canoes.  This,  con- 
sidering we  had  only  two  felling-axes  and  three  hatchets, 
was  pretty  good  work.     Cloudy,  with  little  snow. 

Oct.  igth.  Raised  one  of  our  houses  and  almost  com- 
pleted  one  canoe.  I  was  employed  the  principal  part  of 
this  day  in  writing  letters  and  making  arrangements  which 
I  deemed  necessary,  in  case  I  should  never  return. 

Sunday,  Oct.  20th.  Continued  our  labor  at  the  houses 
and  canoes ;  finished  my  letters,  etc.  At  night  discovered 
the  prairie  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  to  be  on  fire ; 
supposed  to  have  been  made  by  the  Sauteurs.  I  wished 
much  to  have  our  situation  respectable  [defensible]  here,  or 
I  would  have  sent  next  day  to  discover  them. 

Oct.  2ist.  Went  out  hunting,  but  killed  nothing,  not 
wishing  to  shoot  at  small  game.     Our  labor  went  on. 

Oct.  22d.  Went  out  hunting.  About  1 5  miles  up  the 
[Pine]  creek  saw  a  great  quantity  of  deer ;  but  from  the 
dryness  of  the  woods  and  the  quantity  of  brush,  only  shot 
one  through  the  body,  which  made  its  escape.  This  day 
my  men  neglected  their  work,  which  convinced  me  !  must 
leave  off  hunting  and  superintend  them.  Miller  and  myself 
lay  out  all  night  in  the  pine  woods. 

Oct.  2jd.  Raised  another  blockhouse  ;  deposited  all  our 
property  in  the  one  already  completed.  Killed  a  number 
of  pheasants  and  ducks,  while  visiting  my  canoe-makers. 
Sleet  and  snow. 

Oct.  2^th.  The  snow  having  fallen  one  or  two  inches 
thick  in  the  night,  I  sent  out  one  hunter,  Sparks,  and  went 
out  myself ;  Bradley,  my  other  hunter,  being  sick.  Each  of 
us  killed  two  deer,  one  goose,  and  one  pheasant. 

Oct.  2jth.  Sent  out  men  with  Sparks  to  bring  in  his 
game.  None  of  them  returned,  and  I  supposed  them  to  be 
lost  in  the  hemlock  swamps  with  which  the  country  abounds. 
My  interpreter,  however,  whom  I  believe  to  be  a  coward, 
insisted  that  they  were  killed  by  the  Sauteurs.  Made 
arrangements  for  my  departure. 

Oct.  26th.     Launched  my  canoes  and  found  them  very 


^wpl 


CANOE-MAKING — AN  EXPLOSION. 


109 


is,  con- 
itchets, 

it  com- 
part of 
5  which 

houses 
icovered 
on  fire  •. 
'.  wished 

here,  or 

ling,  not 
•n. 

s  up  the 
from  the 
only  shot 
This  day 
le  I  must 
nd  myself 

;d  all  our 
number 
)e-makers. 

l^vo  inches 

and  went 

Each  of 


small.  My  hunter  killed  three  deer.  Took  Miller  and 
remained  out  all  night,  but  killed  nothing. 

Sunday,  Oct.  zjth.  Employed  in  preparing  our  baggage 
to  depart. 

Oct.  28th.  My  two  canoes  being  frnished,  launched,  and 
brought  to  the  head  of  the  rapids,  I  put  my  provision, 
ammunition,  etc.,  on  board,  intending  to  embark  by  day. 
Left  them  under  the  charge  of  the  sentinel ;  in  an  hour  one 
of  them  sunk,  in  which  was  the  ammunition  and  my  bag- 
gage ;  this  was  occasioned  by  what  is  called  a  wind-shock." 
This  misfortune,  and  the  extreme  smallness  of  my  canoes, 
induced  me  to  build  another.  I  had  my  cartridges  spread 
out  on  blankets  and  large  fires  made  around  them.  At  that 
time  I  was  not  able  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the  mis- 
fortune, the  magnitude  of  which  none  can  estimate,  save 
only  those  in  the  same  situation  with  ourselves,  1,500  miles 
from  civilized  society ;  and  in  danger  of  losing  the  very 
means  of  defense — nay,  of  existence. 

Oct.  2gth.  Felled  a  large  pine  and  commenced  another 
canoe.  I  was  at  work  on  my  cartridges  all  day,  but  did  not 
save  five  dozen  out  of  30.  In  attempting  to  dry  the  powder 
in  pots  I  blew  it  up,  and  it  had  nearly  blown  up  a  tent  and 
two  or  three  men  with  it.  Made  a  dozen  new  cartridges 
with  the  old  wrapping-paper. 

Oci.  joth.  My  men  labored  as  usual.  Nothing  ex- 
traordinary. 

Oct.  jist.  Inclosed  mj'  little  work  completely  with 
pickets.  Hauled  up  my  two  boats,  and  turned  them  over 
on  each  side  of  the  gateway,  by  which  means  a  defense 
was  made  to  the  river.  Had  it  not  been  for  various  political 
reasor"5  I  would  have  laughed  at  the  attack  of  800  or  1,000 
savages,  if  all  my  party  were  within.  For,  except  accidents, 
it  would  only  have  afforded  amusement,  the  Indians  having 
no  idea  of  taking  a  place  by  storm.     Found  myself  power- 

"  Or  windshake — not  that  the  canoe  foundered  in  the  wind,  but  that  tl>»»re 
was  a  flaw  in  the  wood  of  which  it  was  built,  such  unsoundness  of  timber  being 
called  a  windshock  or  windshake. 


no 


ENNUI   RELIEVED  BY  AN  ELK  HUNT. 


fully  attacked  with  the  fantastics  of  the  brain  called  ennui, 
at  the  mention  of  which  I  had  hitherto  scoffed ;  but  my 
books  being  packed  up,  I  was  like  a  person  entranced,  and 
could  easily  conceive  why  so  many  persons  who  had  been 
confined  to  remote  places  acquired  the  habit  of  drinking 
to  excess  and  many  other  vicious  practices,  which  have 
been  adopted  merely  to  pass  time. 

Nov.  1st.  Finding  that  my  canoe  would  n?  .e  finished 
in  two  or  three  day^,  I  concluded  to  take  six  inen  and  go 
down  the  river  about  12  miles  [vicinity  of  Buffalo  cr.  (Two 
Rivers)],  where  we  had  remarked  great  sign  of  elk  and 
buffalo.  Arrived  there  about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon. 
All  turned  out  to  hunt.  None  of  us  killed  anything  but 
Sparks,  one  doe.    A  slight  snow  fell. 

Nov.  2d.  Left  the  camp  with  the  fullest  determination 
to  kill  an  elk,  if  it  were  possible,  before  my  return.  I  never 
had  killed  one  of  those  animals.  Took  Miller,  whose 
obliging  disposition  made  him  agreeable  in  the  woods, 
I  was  determined,  if  we  came  on  the  trail  of  elk,  to  follow 
them  a  day  or  two  in  order  to  kill  one.  This,  to  a  person 
acquainted  with  the  nature  of  those  animals,  and  the  extent 
of  the  prairies  in  this  coimtry,  would  appear,  what  it  really 
was,  a  very  foolish  resolution.  We  soon  struck  where  a 
herd  of  150  had  passed.  Pursued  and  came  in  sight  about 
eight  o'clock,  when  they  appeared,  at  a  distance,  like  an 
army  of  Indians  moving  along  in  single  file  ;  a  large  buck, 
of  at  least  four  feet  between  the  horns,  leading  the 
van,  and  one  of  equal  magnitude  bringing  up  the  rear. 
We  followed  until  near  night,  without  once  being  able 
to  get  within  pcintblank  shot.  I  once  made  Miller  fire 
at  them  with  his  musket,  at  about  400  yards'  distance; 
it  had  no  other  effect  than  to  make  them  leave  us  about 
five  miles  behind  on  the  prairie.  Passed  several  deer  in 
the  course  of  the  day,  which  I  think  we  could  have  killed, 
but  did  not  fire  for  fear  of  alarming  the  elk.  Findinj^'  that 
it  was  no  easy  matter  to  kill  one,  I  shot  a  doe  through  the 
body,  as  I  perceived  by  her  blood  where  she  lay  down  in 


ON  THE  TRAIL  OF  THE   ELK. 


HI 


ennui, 
jut  my 
ed,  and 
.d  been 
Irinking 
:h  have 

finished 
and  go 
:r.  (Two 
elk  and 
ternoon. 
ling  but 

mination 
I  never 
r,   whose 
e  woods. 
to  follow 
a  person 
he  extent 
it  really 
where  a 
It  about 
like  an 
ge  buck, 
ing  the 
the  rear, 
ing  able 
iller  fire 
distance ; 
us  about 
deer  in 
ve  killed, 
iing  that 
ough  the 
down  in 


the  snow ;  yet,  not  knowing  how  to  track,  we  lost  her. 
Shortly  after  saw  three  elk  by  themselves  near  a  copse  of 
woods.  Approached  near  them  and  broke  the  shoulder  of 
one ;  but  he  ran  off  with  the  other  two  just  as  I  was  about 
to  follow.  Saw  a  buck  deer  lying  on  the  grass ;  shot  him 
between  the  eyes,  when  he  fell  over.  I  walked  up  to  him, 
put  my  foot  on  his  horns,  and  examined  the  shot ;  imme- 
diately after  which  he  snorted,  bounced  up,  and  fell  five 
steps  from  me.  This  I  considered  his  last  effort ;  but  soon 
after,  to  our  utter  astonishment,  he  jumped  up  and  ran  off. 
He  stopped  frequently :  vve  pursued  him,  expecting  him  to 
fall  every  minute  ;  by  which  we  were  led  from  the  pursuit 
of  the  wounded  elk.  After  being  wearied  out  in  this  unsuc- 
cessful chase  we  returned  in  pursuit  of  the  wounded  elk, 
and  when  we  came  up  to  the  party,  found  him  missing  from 
the  flock.  Shot  another  in  the  body ;  but  my  ball  being 
small,  he  likewise  escaped.  'Wounded  another  deer  ;  when, 
hungry,  cold,  and  fatigued,  after  having  wounded  three  deer 
and  two  elk,  we  were  obliged  to  encamp  in  a  point  of  hem- 
lock woods,  on  the  head  of  Clear  [Platte]  river.  The  large 
herd  of  elk  lay  about  one  mile  from  us,  in  the  prairie.  Our 
want  of  success  I  ascribe  to  the  smallness  of  our  balls,  and 
to  our  inexperience  in  following  the  track  after  wounding 
the  game,  for  it  is  very  seldom  a  deer  drops  on  the  spot 
you  shoot  it. 

Sunday,  Nov.  jd.  Rose  pretty  early  and  went  in  pursuit 
of  the  elk.  Wounded  one  buck  deer  on  the  way.  We 
made  an  attempt  to  drive  them  into  the  woods ;  but  their 
leader  broke  past  us,  and  it  appeared  as  if  the  drove  would 
have  followed  him,  though  they  had  been  obliged  to  run 
over  us.  We  fired  at  them  passing,  but  without  effect. 
Pursued  them  through  the  swamp  till  about  ten  o'clock, 
when  I  determined  to  attempt  to  make  the  river,  and  for 
that  purpose  took  a  due  south  course.  Passed  many  droves 
of  elk  and  buffalo,  but  being  in  the  middle  of  an  immense 
prairie,  knew  it  was  folly  to  attempt  to  shoot  them. 
Wounded  several  deer,  but   got  none.     In   fact,  I   knew 


112 


SUCCESSFUL  END  OF  THE   ELK  HUNT. 


li 


I  could  shoot  as  many  deer  as  anybody  ;  but  neither  myself 
nor  company  could  find  one  in  ten,  whereas  one  experienced 
hunter  would  get  all.  Near  night  struck  a  lake  about  five 
miles  long  and  two  miles  wide.  Saw  immense  droves  of 
elk  on  both  banks.  About  sundown  saw  a  herd  crossing 
the  prairie  toward  us.  We  sat  down.  Two  bucks,  more 
curious  than  the  others,  came  pretty  close.  I  struck  one 
behind  the  fore  shoulder ;  he  did  not  go  more  than  20  yards 
before  he  fell  and  died.  This  was  the  cause  of  much  exulta- 
tion, because  it  fulfilled  my  determination  ;  and,  as  we  had 
been  two  days  and  nights  without  victuals,  it  was  very 
acceptable.  Found  some  scrub  oak.  In  about  one  mile 
made  a  fire,  and  with  much  labor  and  pains  got  our  meat  to 
it ;  the  wolves  feasting  on  one  half  while  we  were  carrying 
away  the  other.  We  were  now  provisioned,  but  were  still 
in  want  of  water,  the  snow  being  all  melted.  Finding  my 
drought  very  excessive  in  the  night,  I  went  in  search  of 
water,  and  was  much  surprised,  after  having  gone  about 
a  mile,  to  strike  the  Mississippi.  Filled  my  hat  and 
returned  to  my  companion. 

Nov.  4th.  Repaired  my  mockinsons,  using  a  piece  of  elk's 
bone  as  an  awl.  We  both  went  to  the  Mississippi  and  found 
we  were  a  great  distance  from  the  camp.  I  left  Miller  to 
guard  the  meat  and  marched  for  camp.  Having  strained 
my  ankles  in  the  swamps,  they  were  extremely  sore,  and 
the  strings  of  my  mockinsons  cut  them  and  made  them  swell 
considerably.  Before  I  had  gone  far  I  discovered  a  herd  of 
10  elk ;  approached  within  50  yards  and  shot  one  through 
the  body.  He  fell  on  the  spot ;  but  rose  again  and  ran  off. 
I  pursued  him  at  least  five  miles,  expecting  every  minute  to 
see  him  drop.  I  then  gave  him  up.  When  I  arrived  at 
Clear  [Platte]  river,  a  deer  was  standing  on  the  other  bank. 
I  killed  him  on  the  spot,  and  while  I  was  taking  out  the 
entrails  another  came  up.  I  shot  him  also.  This  was  my 
last  ball,  and  then  only  could  I  kill !  Left  part  of  my 
clothes  at  this  place  to  scare  the  wolves.  Arrived  at  my 
camp  at  dusk,  to  the  great  joy  of  our  men,  who  had  been 


HUNTING — SNOWING — MEN  MISSING. 


"3 


to  our  little  garrison  to  inquire  for  me,  and  receiving  no 
intelligence,  had  concluded  we  were  killed  by  the  Indians, 
having  heard  them  fire  on  the  opposite  bank.  The  same 
night  we  saw  fires  on  the  opposite  shore  in  the  prairie  ;  this 
was  likewise  seen  in  the  fort,  when  all  the  men  moved  into 
the  works. 

Nov.  5th.  Sent  four  of  my  men  with  one  canoe,  loaded 
with  the  balance  of  nine  deer  that  had  been  killed  ;  with  the 
other  two,  went  down  the  river  for  my  meat.  Stopped  for 
the  deer,  which  I  found  safe.  Miller  had  just  started  to  march 
home,  but  returned  to  camp  with  us.  Found  all  the  meat 
safe,  and  brought  it  to  the  river,  where  we  pitched  our  camp. 

Nov,  6th.  At  the  earnest  entreaties  of  my  men,  and  with 
a  hope  of  killing  some  more  game,  I  agreed  to  stay  and 
hunt.  We  went  out  and  found  that  all  the  elk  and  buffalo 
had  gone  down  the  river  from  those  plains  the  day  before, 
leaving  large  roads  to  point  out  their  course.  This  would 
not  appear  extraordinary  to  persons  acquainted  with  the 
nature  of  those  animals,  as  the  prairie  had  unluckily  caught 
fire.  After  Miller  left  the  camp  for  home.  Sparks  killed 
two  deer,  about  six  miles  off ;  and  it  being  near  the  river, 
I  sent  the  three  men  down  with  the  canoe,  to  return  early 
in  the  morning.  It  commenced  snowing  about  midnight, 
and  by  morning  was  six  inches  deep. 

Nov.  yth.  Waited  ."ill  day  with  the  greatest  anxiety  for 
my  men.  The  river  became  nearly  filled  with  snow,  partly 
congealed  into  ice.  My  situation  can  more  easily  be  imag- 
ined than  described.  Went  down  the  river  to  where  I 
understood  the  deer  were  killed  ;  but  discovered  nothing  of 
my  men.  I  now  became  very  uneasy  on  their  account,  for 
I  was  well  aware  of  the  hostile  disposition  of  the  Indians  to 
all  persons  on  this  part  of  the  Mississippi,  taking  them  to 
be  traders — and  we  had  not  yet  had  an  opportunity  of 
explaining  to  them  who  we  were.  Snow  still  continued 
falling  very  fast,  and  was  nearly  knee-deep.  Had  great 
difficulty  to  procure  wood  sufficient  to  keep  up  a  fire  all 
night.     Ice  in  the  river  thickening. 


114 


THE  MEN  HOUSED— SLEDS  MADE. 


Nov.  8th.  My  men  not  yet  arrived.  I  determined  to 
depart  for  the  garrison,  and  when  the  river  had  frozen,  to 
come  down  on  the  ice  with  a  party,  or,  if  the  weather 
became  mild,  by  water,  with  my  other  peroques,  to  search 
for  my  poor  men.  Put  up  about  ten  pounds  of  meat,  two 
blankets,  and  a  bearskin,  with  my  sword  and  gun,  which 
made  for  me  a  very  heavy  load.  Left  the  meat  in  as  good 
a  situation  as  possible.  Wrote  on  the  snow  my  wishes,  and 
put  my  handkerchief  up  as  a  flag.  Departed.  My  anxiety 
of  mind  was  so  great  that,  notwithstanding  my  load  and  the 
depth  of  the  snow,  I  made  into  the  bottom,  above  our 
former  hunting-camp,  a  little  before  night.  Passed  several 
deer  and  one  elk,  which  I  might  probably  have  killed  ;  but 
not  knowing  whether  I  should  be  able  to  secure  the  meat 
if  I  killed  them,  and  bearing  in  mind  that  they  were  created 
for  the  use  and  not  the  sport  of  man,  I  did  not  fire  at  them. 
While  I  was  endeavoring  to  strike  fire  I  heard  voices,  and 
looking  round,  observed  *^orporal  Meek  and  three  men 
passing.  Called  them  to  me,  and  we  embarked  together. 
They  were  on  their  march  down  to  see  if  they  could  render 
us  any  assistance  in  ascending  the  river.  They  were  much 
grieved  to  hear  my  report  of  the  other  men,  Corporal 
Bradley,  Sparks,  and  Miller. 

Nov.  gth.  Snowed  a  little.  The  men  carried  my  pack. 
I  was  so  sore  that  it  was  with  difficulty  I  carried  my  gun ; 
fortunately  they  brought  with  them  a  pair  of  mockinsons, 
sent  me  by  one  of  my  soldiers,  Owings,  who  had  rightly 
calculated  that  I  was  bare-foot ;  also  a  phial  of  whisky,  sent 
by  the  sergeant ;  were  both  very  acceptable  to  me.  They 
brought  also  some  tobacco  for  my  lost  men.  We  experi- 
enced difficulty  in  crossing  the  river,  owing  to  the  ice. 
Moved  into  the  post  my  command,  who  were  again  en- 
camped out,  ready  to  march  up  the  river.  Set  all  hands  to 
making  sleds,  in  order  that  the  moment  the  river  closed  I 
might  descend,  with  a  strong  party,  in  search  of  my  lost 
men.  Issued  provisions,  and  was  obliged  to  use  six  venison 
hams,  being  part  of  a  quantity  of  elegant  hams  I  had  pre- 


W  'fli 


HUNTING  CONTINUED   PERFORCE. 


"5 


ned  to 
)zen,  to 
A'eather 
1  search 
;at,  two 
1,  which 
as  good 
ties,  and 
anxiety 
and  the 
lOve  our 
I  several 
led ;  but 
he  meat 
J  created 
at  them, 
•ices,  and 
ree  men 
together, 
lid  render 
;re  much 
Corporal 


served  to  take  down,  if  possible,  to  the  general  and  some 
other  friends.  Had  the  two  hunters  not  been  found,  I  must 
have  become  a  slave  to  hunting  in  order  to  support  my  party. 
The  ice  still  ran  very  thick. 

Sunday,  Nov.  loth.  Continued  making  sleds.  No  news 
of  my  hunters.  Ice  in  the  river  very  thick  and  hard.  Raised 
my  tent  with  puncheons,  and  laid  a  floor  in  it. 

Nov.  nth.  I  went  out  hunting.  Saw  but  two  deer. 
Killed  a  remarkably  large  black  fox.  Bradley  and  Miller 
arrived,  having  understood  the  writing  on  the  snow,  and  left 
Sparks  behind  at  the  camp  to  take  care  of  the  meat.  Their 
detention  was  owing  to  their  being  lost  on  the  prairie  the 
first  night,  and  not  being  able  to  find  their  deer. 

Nov.  I2th.  Dispatched  Miller  and  Huddleston  to  the 
lower  hunting-camp,  and  Bradley  and  Brown  to  hunting  in 
the  woods.  Made  my  arrangements  in  camp.  Thawing 
weather. 

Nov.  ijth.  Bradley  returned  with  a  very  large  buck, 
which  supplied  us  for  the  next  four  days. 

Nov.  iph.  It  commenced  raining  at  4  o'clock  a.  m.; 
lightning  and  loud  thunder.  I  went  down  the  river  in  one 
of  my  canoes,  with  five  men,  in  order  to  bring  up  the  meat 
from  the  lower  camp ;  but  after  descending  about  13  miles, 
found  the  river  blocked  up  with  ice.  Returned  about  two 
miles  and  encamped  in  the  bottom  where  I  had  my  hunting- 
camp  on  the  1st  inst.     Extremely  cold  toward  night. 

Nov.  15th.  When  we  meant  to  embark  in  the  morning, 
found  the  river  full  of  ice  and  hardly  moving.  Returned  to 
camp  and  went  out  to  hunt,  for  we  had  no  provision  with 
us.  Killed  nothing  but  five  prairie-hens,  which  afforded  us 
this  day's  subsistence ;  this  bird  I  took  to  be  the  same  as 
grouse.  Expecting  the  ice  had  become  hard,  we  attempted 
to  cross  the  river,  but  coulo  not.  In  the  endeavor  one  man 
fell  through.     Freezing. 

Nov.  i6th.  Detached  Corporal  Meek  and  one  private  to 
the  garrison,  to  order  the  sleds  down.  No  success  in  hunting, 
except  a  few  fowl.     I  began  to  consider  the  life  of  a  hunter 


■iP 


ii6 


FURTHER   MOVEMENT  OF  THE   HUNTERS. 


a  very  slavish  life,  and  extremely  precarious  as  to  support ; 
for  sometimes  I  have  myself,  although  no  hunter,  killed  600 
weight  of  meat  in  one  day ;  and  I  have  hunted  three  days 
successively  without  killing  anything  but  a  few  small  birds, 
which  I  was  obliged  to  do  to  keep  my  men  from  starving. 
Freezing. 

Sunday,  Nov.  lyth.  One  of  my  men  arrived  ;  he  had  at- 
tempted  to  make  the  camp  before,  but  lost  himself  in  the 
prairie,  lay  out  all  night,  and  froze  his  toes.  He  informed 
us  that  the  corporal  and  the  men  I  sent  with  him  had  their 
toes  frost-bitten,  the  former  very  badly ;  that  three  men  were 
on  their  way  down  by  land,  the  river  above  not  being  frozen 
over.    They  arrived  a  few  hours  before  night.     Freezing. 

Nov.  i8th.  Took  our  departure  down  the  river  on  the 
ice,  our  baggage  on  the  sled.  Ice  very  rough.  Distance 
12  miles.     Freezing. 

Nov.  igth.  Arrived  opposite  our  hunting-camp  about 
noon.  Had  the  meat,  etc.,  moved  over.  They  had  a  large 
quantity  of  meat.  I  went  out  and  killed  a  very  large  buck. 
Thawing. 

Nov.  20th.  Departed  to  return  to  the  stockade,  part  of 
our  meat  on  the  sled  and  part  in  the  little  peroque,  the 
river  being  open  in  the  middle.  Killed  four  deer.  Thaw- 
ing.    Distance  five  miles. 

Nov.  2ist.  Marched  in  the  morning.  Came  to  a  place 
where  the  river  was  very  narrow,  and  the  channel  blocked 
up.  Were  obliged  to  unload  our  peroque  and  haul  her 
over.  The  river  having  swelled  a  good  deal  at  this  place 
the  ice  gave  way  with  myself  and  two  men  on  it.  We 
seized  the  sled  that  stood  by  us,  with  some  little  bag- 
gage on  it,  and  by  jumping  over  four  cracks,  the  last 
two  feet  wide,  providentially  made  our  passage  good  with- 
out losing  an  individual  thing.  Encamped  opposite  Clear 
[Platte]  river.     Killed  one  deer  and  one  otter.     Freezing. 

Nov.  22d.  Were  obliged  to  leave  our  canoe  at  Clear  river, 
the  river  being  closed.  Made  two  trips  with  our  sled. 
Killed  one  deer.     Distance  five  miles. 


<«P!^i"i| 


BUFFALO  HUNT— ARRIVAL  OF  INDIANS. 


117 


upport ; 
lied  600 
ree  days 
ill  birds, 
starving. 

had  at- 
If  in  the 
informed 
tiad  their 
Tien  were 
ig  frozen 
eezing. 
:r  on  the 

Distance 

Tip  about 
ad  a  large 
arge  buck. 


Nov.  2jd.  Having  seen  a  great  deal  of  buffalo  sign,  I 
determined  to  kill  one  the  next  day — forgetting  the  elk 
chase.  Encamped  nearly  opposite  our  camp  of  the  15th 
and  i6th.    Thawing.     Distance  four  miles. 

Sunday,  Nov.  24.th.  Took  Miller  and  Boley  and  went  in 
pursuit  of  buffalo.  Came  up  with  some  about  ten  o'clock. 
In  the  afternoon  wounded  one.  Pursued  them  until  night, 
and  encamped  on  the  side  of  a  swamp.     Thawing. 

Nov.  25th.  Commenced  again  the  pursuit  of  the  buffalo, 
and  continued  till  eleven  o'clock,  when  I  gave  up  the  chase. 
Arrived  at  the  camp  about  sundown,  hungry  and  weary, 
having  eaten  nothing  since  we  left  it.  My  rifle  carried  too 
small  a  ball  to  kill  buffalo ;  the  balls  should  not  be  more 
than  30  to  the  pound — an  ounce  ball  would  be  still  pref- 
erable— and  the  animal  should  be  hunted  on  horse-back. 
I  think  that  in  the  prairies  of  this  country  the  bow  and 
arrow  could  be  used  to  more  advantage  than  the  gun ; 
for  you  might  ride  immediately  alongside,  and  strike  them 
where  you  pleased,  leaving  them  to  proceed  after  others. 
Thawing. 

Nov.  26th.  Proceeded  up  the  river.  The  ice  getting 
very  rotten,  the  men  fell  through  several  times.  Thawing. 
Distance  five  miles. 

Nov.  2yth.  Took  one  man  and  marched  to  the  post. 
Found  all  well.  My  hunter,  Bradley,  had  killed  11  deer 
since  my  departure.  Sent  all  the  men  down  to  help  the 
party  up.  They  returned,  accompanied  by  two  Indians, 
who  informed  me  they  were  two  men  of  a  band  who  resided 
on  Lake  Superior,  called  the  Fols  Avoins,  but  spoke  the 
language  of  the  Chipeways.  They  informed  me  that  Mr. 
Dickson's"'  and  the  other  trading-houses  were  established 

"For  Dickson's  trading-house  of  1805-6  see  note  beyond,  date  of  Apr.  7th. 
Dickson's  name  frequently  recurs  in  Pike,  but  I  think  never  once  in  full. 
Robert  Dickson  was  an  Englishman  who  began  to  trade  with  the  Sioux  as 
early  as  1790,  ar>.d  acquired  great  renown  in  the  early  history  of  the  country. 
The  following  occurs  in  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  I.  2d  ed.  1872,  p.  390  :  "  Five  years 
after  Pike's  visit  he  espoused  the  British  cause,  and  took  a  prominent  part  in 
encouraging  the  western  tribes  in  hostility  against  the  Americans.     Yet  he  is 


m^ 


Ii8 


DISPATCH  TO  DICKSON— KILLEUR  ROUGE. 


about  60  miles  below,  and  that  there  were  70  lodges  of 
Sioux  on  the  Mississippi.     All  my  men  arrived  at  the  post 
We  brought  from  our  camp  below  the  balance  of  17  deer 
and  2  elk. 

Nov.  28th.  The  Indians  departed,  much  pleased  with 
their  reception.  I  dispatched  Corporal  Meek  and  one  pri- 
vate down  to  Dickson  with  a  letter,  which  would  at  least 
have  the  effect  of  attaching  the  most  powerful  tribes  in  this 
quarter  to  my  interest. 

Nov.  2gth.  A  Sioux,  the  son  of  a  warrior  called  tlie 
Killeur  Rouge,'*  of  the  Gens  des  Feuilles,  and  a  Fols  Avoin, 


1 


IWP 


said  to  have  been  very  humane  to  American  prisoners,  rescuing  many  from  the 
Indians,  and  restraining  the  latter  from  barbarities  and  cold-blooded  massacres. 
After  the  war  Dickson,  some  accounts  say,  did  not  resume  trade  with  the  Sioux ; 
but  he  did  at  least  live  at  Lake  Travers  as  late  as  1817,  and  was  charged  with 
alienating  the  Sioux  from  the  United  States,  in  complicity  with  Lord  Selkirk, 
who  was  there  establishing  his  colony  on  Red  river.  He  was  soon  after  arrested 
near  what  is  now  St.  Paul,  and  taken  to  St.  Louis.  He  was  probably  soon  re- 
leased, however,  and  found  his  way  back  to  Queenstown  in  Canada,  where  lie 
died.  Dickson  had  a  Sioux  wife  and  four  half-breed  children.  One  of  his 
grandchildren  was  wife  of  Joseph  Laframboise,  a  well-known  trader  at  Lac  Qui 
Parle,"  To  this  may  be  added  that  one  of  Col.  Robert  Dickson's  half-breed 
sons  was  William  Dickson,  whose  name  appears  here  and  there  in  Minnesota 
annals. 

'*  There  is  no  such  French  word  as  "  killeur,"  which  Pike  elsewhere  renders 
"  killieu,"  and  which  appears  in  the  text  of  1807  as  "  killien  "  and  "  killein." 
On  consulting;  che  F.  text,  I.  p.  95,  I  find  that  the  editor  says,  "  Plutot  tiieur 
rouge,  car  le  mot  killeur  n'est  pas  f rangois  ;  c'est  sans  doute  un  barbarisme  echappe 
4  M.  Pike."  The  son  of  this  chief  Pike  calls  "Fils  de  Killeur  Rouge"  :  see 
Mar.  5th  and  8th,  1806,  beyond.  There  is  a  Canadian  French  word  piUtur, 
pillager,  and  the  Leech  Lake  Chippewas  were  known  as  Pilleurs  or  Pillagers ; 
but  this  Killeur  was  a  Sioux  chief  of  the  Gens  des  Feuilles  or  Leaf  Indians,  now 
called  Wahpetonwans  :  see  L.  and  C. ,  ed.  X893,  p.  100.  Pike  translates  Killeur 
by  "  Eagle";  and  this  clew  to  the  meaning  of  the  word  is  carried  on  by  Be! 
trami,  II.  p.  207,  who  has  a  chief  called  "  Ki-han  or  Red  Quilliou";  ibU., 
p.  224,  he  speaks  of  "  a  bird  which  the  Canadians  call  killioti,  and  the  Indians 
Wamendi-hi";  ibid.,  p.  307,  he  says  "a  plume  of  'nllow,"  making  an  English 
word  of  it.  Forsyth  has  "  the  killiew  (thus  named  from  a  species  of  eagle),"  in 
Minn.  Hist.  Col.,  III.  1874,  p.  154.  So  killeur,  etc.,  is  simply  a  French  way 
of  spelling  a  certain  Indian  name  of  the  eagle,  whose  feathers  are  used  for 
ornament.  I  once  noted  this  word  in  the  form  khoya.  Riggs'  Dak.  Diet., 
1852,  has  "  Hu-yd,  n.,  the  common  eagle  "  (the  dotted  A  a  deep  surd  guttural). 


^ilppllpl 


INDIAN  REPORT  ON  THE  LIQUOR  LAW. 


119 


came  to  the  post.  He  said  that  having  struck  our  trail 
below  and  finding  some  to  be  shoe-tracks,  he  conceived  it 
to  be  the  establishment  of  some  traders,  took  it,  and  came 
to  the  post.  He  informed  me  that  Mr.  Dickson  had  told 
the  Sioux  "  that  they  might  now  hunt  where  they  pleased, 
as  I  had  gone  ahead  and  would  cause  the  Chipcways, 
wherever  I  met  them,  to  treat  them  with  friendship  ;  that 
I  had  barred  up  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peters,  so  that  no 
liquor  could  ascend  that  river ;  but  that  if  they  came  on 
the  Mississippi  they  should  have  what  liquor  they  wanted  ; 
also,  that  I  was  on  the  river  and  had  a  great  deal  of  mer- 
chandise  to  give  them  in  presents."  This  information  of 
Mr.  Dickson  to  the  Indians  seemed  to  have  self-interest  and 
envy  for  its  motives;  for,  by  the  idea  of  my  having  pre- 
vented liquor  from  going  up  the  St.  Peters  he  gave  the 
Indians  to  understand  that  it  was  a  regulation  of  my  own, 
and  not  a  law  of  the  United  States ;  by  assuring  them  he 
would  sell  to  them  on  the  Mississippi,  he  drew  all  the 
Indians  from  the  traders  on  the  St.  Peters,  who  had 
adhered  to  the  restriction  of  not  selling  liquor  ;  and  should 
any  of  them  be  killed  the  blame  would  all  lie  on  me,  as  he 
had  without  authority  assured  them  they  might  hunt  in 
security.  I  took  care  to  give  the  young  chief  a  full  ex- 
planation of  my  ideas  on  the  subject.  He  remained  all 
night.     Killed  two  deer. 

Nov.joth.  I  made  the  two  Indians  some  small  presents. 
They  crossed  the  river  and  departed.  Detached  Kenner- 
man  with  1 1  men  to  bring  up  the  two  canoes. 

Sunday,  Dec.  ist.  Snowed  a  little  in  the  middle  of  the 
day.     Went  out  with  my  gun,  but  killed  nothing. 

Dec.  2d.  Sparks  arrived  from  the  party  below,  and 
informed  me  they  could  not  kill  any  game,  but  had  started 
up  with  the  little  peroque;  also,  that  Mr.  Dickson  and 
a  Frenchman  had  passed  my  detachment  about  three  hours 
hefore.  He  left  them  on  their  march  to  the  post.  Sparks 
arrived  about  ten  o'clock  at  night. 

Dec.  jd.     Mr.  Dickson,  with  an  engagee  and  a  young 


I20 


ARRIVALS  AND  DEPARTURES. 


urn 


Indian,  arrived  at  the  fort.  I  received  him  with  every 
politeness  in  my  power,  and  after  a  serious  conversation 
with  him  on  the  subject  of  the  information  given  me  on  the 
29th  ult.,  was  induced  to  believe  it  in  part  incorrect.  He 
assured  me  that  no  liquor  was  sold  by  him,  or  by  any 
houses  under  his  direction.  He  gave  me  much  useful  in- 
formation relative  to  my  future  route,  which  gave  me  great 
encouragement  as  to  the  certainty  of  my  accomplishing  the 
object  of  my  voyage  to  the  fullest  extent.  He  seemed  to 
be  a  gentleman  of  general  commercial  knowledge,  possess- 
ing much  geographical  information  of  the  western  country, 
and  of  open,  frank  manners.  He  gave  me  many  assurances 
of  his  good  wishes  for  the  prosperity  of  my  undertaking. 

Dec.  if-th.  My  men  arrived  with  one  canoe  only.  Cal- 
culated on  returning  them  two  days  later. 

Dec.  5th.  Mr.  Dickson,  with  his  two  men,  departed  for 
their  station  [in  the  vicinity  of  Thousand  Islands,  below  St. 
Cloud],  after  having  furnished  me  with  a  letter  for  a  young 
man  of  his  house  on  Lake  de  Sable  [Sandy  lake],  and 
carte  blanche  as  to  my  commands  on  him.     Weather  mild. 

Dec.  6th.  I  dispatched  my  men  down  to  bring  up  the 
other  peroque  with  a  strong  sled  on  which  it  was  intended 
to  put  the  canoe  about  one-third,  and  to  let  the  end  drag  on 
the  ice.  Three  families  of  the  Fols  Avoins  arrived  and 
encamped  near  the  fort ;  also,  one  Sioux,  who  pretended  to 
have  been  sent  to  me  from  the  Gens  des  Feuilles,  to  inform 
me  that  the  Yanctongs  and  Sussitongs,"  two  bands  of  Sioux 
from  the  head  of  the  St.  Peters  and  the  Missouri,  and  the 
most  savage  of  them,  had  commenced  the  war-dun.  nnd 
would  depart  in  a  few  days  ;  in  which  cas  he  onceivxd  it 
would  be  advisable  for  the  Fols  Avoin  p  close  urn'  ^ 

my  protection  ;  that  making  a   strok        .  the  Chipev 
would  tend  to  injure  the  grand  object         my  v  yage,  etc. 
Some  reasons  induced  me  to  believe  he  was  a    ;elf-created 
envoy  ;  however,  I  ofTered  to  pay  him,  or  any  young  Sioux, 
who  would  go  to  those  bands  and  carry  my  word.    He 

"  Yanktons  and  Sissetons  :  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  1893,  pp.  94,  100. 


,1'ti 


■PPM 


WHITE   DOG  AND   HIS  FAMILY. 


rat 


every 
:rsation 

on  the 
:t.  He 
by  any 
ieful  in- 
ne  great 
ling  the 
cmed  to 

possess- 
country, 
isurances 
iking, 
ily.    Cal- 


promJsed  to  make  known  my  wishes  upon  his  return.  My 
men  returned  in  the  evening  without  my  canoe,  having 
been  so  unfortunate  as  to  split  her  in  carrying  her  over  the 
rough  hilly  ice  in  the  ripples  below.  So  many  disappoint- 
ments almost  wearied  out  my  patience ;  notwithstanding, 
I  intended  to  embark  by  land  and  water  in  a  few  days. 

Dec.  jth.  An  Indian  by  the  name  of  Chien  Blanche," 
of  the  Fols  Avoin  tribe,  with  his  family  and  connections, 
arrived  and  encamped  near  the  stockade.  He  informed  me 
that  he  had  wintered  here  for  ten  years  past ;  that  the  sugar- 
camp  near  the  stockade  was  where  he  made  sugar.  He 
appeared  to  be  an  intelligent  man.  I  visited  his  camp  in  the 
afternoon,  and  found  him  seated  amidst  his  children  and 
grandchildren,  amounting  in  all  to  ten.  His  wife,  although 
of  an  advanced  age,  was  suckling  two  children  that  appeared 
to  be  about  two  years  old.  I  should  have  taken  them  to  be 
twins,  had  not  one  been  much  fairer  than  the  other.  Upon 
inquiry,  however,  I  found  that  the  fairest  was  the  daughter 
of  an  Englishman,  by  one  of  the  Indian's  daughters,  lately 
deceased ;  since  whose  death  the  grandmother  had  taken  it 
to  the  breast.  His  lodge  was  made  of  rushes  plaited  into 
mats,  after  the  manner  of  the  Illinois.  I  was  obliged  to 
give  some  meat  to  all  the  Indians  who  arrived  at  the  stock- 
ade, at  the  same  time  explaining  our  situation.  The  Chien 
Blanche  assured  me  it  should  be  repaid  with  interest  in  the 
course  of  the  winter,  but  that  at  that  time  he  was  without 
anything  to  eat.  In  fact,  our  hunters  having  killed  nothing 
for  several  days,  we  were  ourselves  on  short  allowance. 

Dec.  8th.  An  invalid  Sioux  arrived  with  the  information 
that  the  bands  of  the  Sussitongs  and  Yanctongs  had  actu- 
ally determined  to  make  war  on  the  Chipeways,  and  that 
they  had  formed  a  party  of  150  or  160  men;  but  that  part 
of  the  Sussitongs  had  refused  to  go  to  war,  and  would  be 
here  on  a  visit  to  me  the  next  day.     This  occasioned  me 

"  More  probably  Chien  Blanc,  or  White  Dog — unless  we  could  go  so  far  as  to 
Hippnse  he  was  called  by  the  less  polite  and  less  appropriate  name  of  Chienne 

Blanche. 


122      JOURNEY  RESUMED  WITH   SLEDS— SWAN  RIVER 

to  delay  crossing  the  river  immediately,  on  my  voyage  to 
Lake  Sang  Sue  [Leech  lake],  as  it  was  possible  that  by  hav- 
ing a  conference  with  them  I  might  still  prevent  the  stroke 
intended  to  be  made  against  the  Chipeways. 

Dec.  gth.  Prepared  to  embark.  Expecting  the  Sioux,  I 
had  two  large  kettles  of  soup  made  for  them.  Had  a  shoot- 
ing-match with  four  prizes.  The  Sioux  did  not  arrive,  and 
we  ate  the  soup  ourseJves.  Crossed  the  river  and  encamped 
above  the  [Knife  or  Pike]  rapids."  Wind  changed  and  it 
grew  cold. 

Dec.  loth.  After  arranging  our  sleds  and  peroque  we 
commenced  our  march.  My  sleds  were  such  as  are  fre- 
quently seen  about  farmers'  yards,  calculated  to  hold  two 
barrels  or  400  weight,  in  which  two  men  were  geared  abreast. 
The  sleds  on  the  prairie  and  the  peroque  m  ere  towed  by 
three  men.  Found  it  extremely  difficult  to  get  along,  tl.e 
snow  being  melted  off  the  prairie  in  spots.  The  men  who 
had  the  canoe  were  obliged  to  wade  and  drag  her  over  the 
rocks  in  many  places.  Shot  the  only  deer  I  saw ;  it  fell  three 
times,  and  then  made  its  escape.  This  was  a  great  disap- 
pointment, for  upon  the  game  we  took  now  we  depended 
for  our  subsistence.  This  evening  disclosed  to  my  men  the 
real  danger  they  had  to  encounter.     Distance  five  miles.'"' 

*'  About  opp.  the  mouth  of  Pine  cr.  or  Swan  r.,  |^  m.  above  head  of  Rolicrts' 
isl.,  and  on  or  net.r  the  present  site  of  Gregory,  Morrison  Co.  This  place  is 
marked  as  Aitkin's  ferry,  trading-post,  and  hotel,  on  a  Minnesota  map,  pub. 
Phila.,  Cowperthwait,  1850;  it  is  about  the  middle  of  the  southwesternmost 
section  of  Little  Falls  township  (Township  40,  Range  32,  4th  mer.),  say  3  m. 
below  the  middle  of  the  city  of  Little  Falls.  The  head  of  Pike  rapids  is  1,071 
or  1,072  feet  above  sea-level.  Swan  r.  bends  up  a  little  to  fall  into  the  Miss. 
r.,  so  that  its  mouth  is  slightly  over  the  S.  border  of  Sect.  6,  Township  128, 
Range  2g,  5th  mer.  There  is  a  flour  mill  on  its  S.  side,  at  the  bend,  half  a 
mile  or  less  from  its  mouth.  Ledoux  P.  O.  is  on  this  stream,  a  few  miles  up, 
in  Swan  River  township,  which  lies  between  North  Prairie  township  and 
Pike  Creek  township  ;  Swt ..  r.  runs  over  the  N.  border  of  it  a  mile  W.  of 
the  Mississippi.  By  whom  1  ike's  f '.iie  cr.  was  first  called  Swan  r.  i  do  n  ' 
know,  unless  it  was  Nicollet ;  it  is  Wabizio-sibi  of  Beltrami,  Wabezi  or  Swan 
r.  of  Nicollet,  1836,  Swan  r.  of  Owen  and  later  writers  ;  but  Lieut,  vdlen 
has  it  i^:lk  r.  on  his  map,  by  error. 

'*  "^.css  than  this,  to  camp  on  left  or  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  in  the  pres- 


PIKE  CREEK— LITTLE   FALLS. 


m: 


123 


Dec.  nth.  It  having  thawed  all  night,  the  snow  had  al- 
most melted  from  the  prairie.  I  walked  on  until  ten  o'clock, 
and  made  a  fire.  I  then  went  back  to  look  for  the  peroque, 
and  at  a  remarkable  [Little  Elk]  rapid  in  the  river,  opposite 
a  high  piny  island,  made  a  fire  and  waited  for  them  to  come 
up,  when  we  partly  unloaded.  I  returned  and  met  the 
sleds.  When  we  arrived  at  the  place  pitched  on  for  our 
camp,  I  sent  the  men  down  to  assist  the  peroque.  In  the 
afternoon,  from  about  three  o'clock,  we  heard  the  report  of 
not  less  than  50  guns  ahead,  and  after  dusk  much  shooting 
on  tl  e  prairie.  I  was  at  a  loss  to  know  who  they  could  be, 
unless  they  were  Sauteaux,  and  what  could  be  their  object 


ent '.ity  of  Little  Falls,  Morrison  Co,,  probably  about  the  place  where  is  the 
lower  bridge,  a  few  blocks  from  the  Buckman  hotel.  Painted  Rock  rapids  is 
now  Little  falls.  A  high,  small  island  at  the  falls  divides  the  river  in  two 
channels  ;  it  is  Rock  isl.  of  Nicollet,  now  called  Mill  isl. ;  some  mills  are  there, 
and  there  is  the  site  of  the  present  dam,  immediately  below  the  lower  bridge. 
Little  Falls  is  a  flourishing  place,  as  towns  with  a  water-power  of  35,000  horses 
may  easily  be  ;  pop.  now  or  lately  3,000  ;  dam  built  1887-8,  said  to  have  cost 
$250,000  ;  I  wo  bridges  span  the  river,  the  upper  one  for  the  N.  P.  R.  R.,  near 
the  large  sawmill  which  stands  on  the  W.  bank  ;  chief  industry,  milling  flour 
and  logs  •  city  incorporated  iSSy  ;  N.  Richardson,  mayor  for  five  years :  see 
Little  Falls  Daily  Transcript,  Industrial  ed.,  Jan.  1st.  1894,  large  folio,  pp.  28, 
maps  and  views,  price  5c.  The  Little  falls — cataract,  not  town — are  so  called 
by  Pike  elsewhere  in  this  work  ;  he  also  says  that  "  the  place  is  called  by  the 
French  Le  Si  ute  de  la  Roche  Peinture,"  by  which  we  may  understand  La  Chute 
de  la  Roche  Peinte  ;  his  map  legends  "Painted  Rock  or  Little  Falls."  Bel- 
trami names  the  falls  Great  Rock  and  Kekebicauge.  As  to  the  "  5  miles"  of 
to-day's  journey,  we  may  note  that  the  distaii  :e  ;s  less  now  than  it  used  to  be 
by  the  channel,  because  there  was  a  bend  of  the  river  to  the  E.  which  is  now 
straightened  out.  This  bend  appears  on  maps  of  ■20  yeirs  ago  ;  it  is  now  city 
ground,  and  the  maich  of  improvement  has  effectec  various  other  changes  in  the 
course  of  the  river.  When  about  a  mile  from  tb's  morning's  camp.  Pike  passed 
a  jilace  wl:ere  the  river  was  fordable,  and  maj  be  so  still  ;  here  was  the  site  of 
Swan  River  P.  O.,  on  the  E.  bank,  in  Little  Falls  township.  When  a  milo  fur- 
ther on,  he  passed  the  mouth  of  a  creek  from  the  \V.  which  he  calls  2nd  cr,  (on 
the  map  "  2<1  Cr."),  and  which  others  have  rendered  Second  cr.,  though  Nicollet 
and  Owen  both  have  it  Little  Fall  cr. ;  it  is  now  known  as  Pike  cr.,  and 
gives  name  to  Pike  Creek  township.  It  falls  into  the  Mississippi  at  the  middle 
of  the  E.  border  of  Sect.  25,  Township  129,  Range  30,  5th  mer.,  through 
the  6th  one  of  the  16  outlets  of  O.  O.  Searles,  slightly  beyond  present  city 
limits. 


124 


LITTLE   ELK   RIVER  AND   RAPIDS, 


l:-^ 


in  shooting  after  dark.     Kept  a  good  lookout.     Distance 
five  miles.*' 

Dec.  I2th.  The  snow  having  almost  entirely  left  the 
prairie,  we  were  obliged  to  take  on  but  one  sled  at  a  time 
and  treble  man  it.  In  the  morning  my  interpreter  came  to 
me  with  quite  a  martial  air,  and  requested  that  he  might  be 
allowed  to  go  ahead  to  discover  what  Indians  we  heard  fire 
last  evening.  I  gave  him  permission  and  away  he  went. 
Shortly  after,  I  went  out  with  Corporal  Bradley  and  a  private, 
and  in  about  an  hour  overtook  my  partizan,  on  a  bottom 
close  to  the  river ;  he  was  hunting  raccoons,  and  had  caught 
five.  We  left  him  ;  and  after  choosing  an  encampment  and 
sending  the  private  back  to  conduct  the  party  to  it,  the 
corporal  and  myself  marched  on,  anxious  to  discover  the 
Indians.  We  ascended  the  river  about  eight  miles;  saw 
no  Indians,  but  discovered  that  the  river  was  frozen  over. 
This  pleased  me  more,  for  we  would  now  be  enabled  to 
walk  three  times  our  usual  distance  in  a  day. 

I  was  much  surprised  that  we  saw  no  Indians.  After  our 
return  to  camp  I  was  told  that  a  Fols  Avoin  Indian  had  met 
my  party  and  informed  them  that  in  the  rear  of  the  hills 
that  bordered  the  prairie  there  were  many  small  lakes  which 
by  portages  communicated  with  Lake  Superior;  that  in  one 
day's  march  on  that  course  we  would  find  English  trading- 
houses  ;  that  the  Chipeways  were  there  hunting ;  that  the 
Sioux  who  had  visited  my  camp  on  the  29th  ult.,  on  hearing 

"  To  a  position  at  the  head  of  Little  Elk  rapids,  a  short  distance  above  the 
mouth  of  Little  Elk  r.  This  is  a  sizaiile  stream  which  comes  from  the  W. 
through  Parker  and  Randall  townships  to  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Green  Prarie 
township,  touches  the  N.  E.  corner  of  Pike  creek  township,  and  then  curves  a 
couple  of  miles  to  the  Mississippi  through  Sects.  6  and  5,  T.  129,  R.  29, 
5th  M.  Pike  elsewhere  notes  it  with  particularity  by  the  name  of  Elk  r.  liel- 
trami  says  Moska  or  Mosko  and  Doe  or  Bitch  r.  This  last  name  is  a  mistaken 
rendering  of  R.  la  Biche  or  Elk  r.  of  the  French — he  makes  the  same  sinj.^ular 
blunder  in  the  case  of  Lake  Itasca,  which  he  calls  Doe  or  Bitch  1.,  after  uie 
French  Lac  la  Biche.  The  river  is  the  Omoshkos  or  Elk  r.  of  Nicollet 
and  Owen.  It  is  marked  Little  Fork  cr.  on  the  Minn,  map  of  1850  ;  and 
Allen's  map  makes  it  Swan  r.,  by  an  erroneous  transposition  of  names ;  see 
note  "  p.  laa. 


~ 


BELLE  PFAIRIE — FLETCHER  CREEK — TOPEKA. 


125 


)istance 

left   the 
a  time 
came  to 
night  be 
card  fire 
le  went. 
I  private, 
,  bottom 
d  caught 
nent  and 
o  it,  the 
;over  the 
iles;  saw 
zen  over, 
labled  to 

After  our 

^  had  met 

the  hills 

kes  which 

lat  in  one 

trading- 

that  the 

n  hearing 

ce  above  the 
from  the  W. 
reen  Prarie 
hen  curves  a 
T2g,  R.  29, 
Elk  r.     Kel- 
s  a  mistaken 
ame  sin^nilar 
1,,  after  uie 
of  NicoUet 

f  1850  ;    a'"! 
names ;  see 


the  firing,  h'^d  prudently  returned  with  his  companions  to 
the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi,  agreeably  to  my  advice. 
How  persons  unacquainted  with  the  searching  spirit  of  trade 
and  the  enterprise  of  the  people  of  the  northwest  would  be 
surprised  to  find  people  who  had  penetrated  from  Lake 
Superior  to  lakes  little  more  than  marshes!  It  likewise 
points  out  the  difficulty  of  putting  a  barrier  on  their  trade. 

All  my  sleds  and  peroques  did  not  get  up  until  half-past 
ten  o'clock.  Saw  a  very  beautiful  fox,  with  red  back,  white 
tail  and  breast.  My  interpreter  called  them  reynard  d'ar- 
gent  [silver  fox].  I  had  no  opportunity  of  shooting  him. 
Killed  six  raccoons  and  one  porcupine  [Ercthison  dorsatum]. 
Fine  day.     Distance  seven  miles.'" 

Bee.  ijt/i.  Made  double  trips.  Embarked  at  the  upper 
end  of  Hie  ripples.  It  commenced  anowing  at  three  o'clock. 
Bradley  killed  one  deer,  another  man  killed  one  raccoon. 
Storm  continued  until  next  morning.     Distance  five  miles." 

Dee.  T^t/t.  We  departed  from  our  encampment  at  the 
usual  hour  but  had  not  advanced  one  mile  when  the  fore- 
most sled,  \  hich  happened  unfortunately  to  carry  my  bag- 
gage and  ammunition,  fell  into  the  river.     We  were  all  in 

"'  From  Little  Falls  to  Crow  Wing  is  only  26  m.  by  the  river.  Pike  does 
not  reach  Crow  Wing  till  the  21st,  and  his  party  does  not  get  up  till  the  23d 
or  24th.  Exactly  what  distance  he  makes  it  cannot  be  said,  as  mileage  is 
miiising  some  days.  He  appears  to  have  thought  it  some  50  or  60  m.  Thus 
the  itinerary  does  not  aflord  data  for  fixiiT-  '^amps  with  precision,  and  hence  we 
can  only  check  him  approximately  from  d.  j  day.  The  sledge-party  does  not 
average  3  m.  a  day,  but  Pike  himself  seems  to  skirmish  about  for  many  more 
miles — jierhaps  the  excessive  mileages  represent  his  own  activities,  not  the  actual 
advance  of  the  Expedition.  The  average  course  is  due  N.  On  the  1 2th  Conradi 
shoal  and  Belle  Prairie  were  passed,  to  camp  in  the  vicinity  of  Fletcher  cr. 
Belle  Prairie  is  a  comparatively  old  settlement  on  the  E.  bank,  founded  by 
Fiederick  /  yer,  a  missionary,  in  1848  ;  pop.  800.  This  is  only  4j^  m.  by  rail 
from  Little  Falls.  The  town  is  directly  opposite  the  shoals.  These  are  the 
Fifth  rapid  of  Nicollet.  A  small  creek  comes  in  opposite  them  from  the  W., 
in  Green  Prairie  township.  Fletcher  cr.  is  mapped  by  Nicollet  without  name  ; 
it  is  McKinney's  r.  on  the  1850  map  of  Minn.  It  falls  in  from  the  E.  through 
Sect.  I,  T.  41,  R.  32,  4th  M. 

"  In  the  vicinity  of  Topeka,  a  town  and  station  on  the  N.  P.  R.  R.,  on  the 
E.  bank  of  the  river. 


126 


THREE  DAYS  AT  THE  PINE  CAMP. 


the  river  up  to  our  middle  in  recovering  the  things.  Halted 
and  made  a  fire.  Came  to  where  the  river  was  frozen  over. 
Stopped  and  encamped  on  the  west  shore,  in  a  pine  wood 
["Pine  camp"  of  Mar.  4th,  1806].  Upon  examining  my 
things,  found  all  my  baggage  wet  and  some  of  my  books 
materially  injured;  but  a  still  greater  injury  was,  that  all 
my  cartridges  and  four  pounds  of  double  battle  Sussex 
powder  which  I  had  brought  for  my  own  use,  were  destroyed. 
Fortunately  my  kegs  of  powder  were  preserved  dry,  and 
some  bottles  of  common  glazed  powder,  which  were  so 
tightly  corked  as  not  to  admit  water.  Had  this  not  been 
the  case,  my  voyage  must  necessarily  have  been  terminated, 
for  we  could  not  have  subsisted  without  ammunition.  Dur- 
ing the  time  of  our  misfortune,  two  Fols  Avoin  Indians 
came  to  us,  one  of  whom  was  at  my  stockade  on  the  29th 
ult.,  in  company  with  the  Sioux.  I  signified  to  them  by 
signs  the  place  of  our  encampment,  and  invited  them  to 
come  and  encamp  with  us.  They  left  me  and  both  arrived 
at  my  camp  in  the  evening,  having  each  a  deer  which  they 
presented  me  ;  I  gave  them  my  canoe  to  keep  until  spring, 
and  in  the  morning  at  parting  made  them  a  small  present. 
Sat  up  until  three  o'clock  drying  and  assorting  my  ammuni- 
tion, baggage,  etc.     Killed  two  deer.     Distance  four  miles. 

Sunday,  Dec.  15th.  Remained  at  our  camp  making  sleds. 
Killed  two  deer.  Crossed  and  recrossed  several  Indian 
trails  in  the  woods. 

Dec.  i6th.  Remained  at  the  same  camp,  employed  as 
yesterday.  Killed  three  deer.  I  wounded  a  buffalo  in  the 
shoulder,  and  by  a  fair  race  overtook  him  in  the  prairie  and 
gave  him  another  shot ;  but  it  being  near  night  left  him  till 
morning." 

"  Camp  of  the  14th,  15th,  and  i6th  seems  to  have  been  on  the  W.  bank  of 
the  river,  at  the  head  of  Olmsted's  bar,  and  was  very  likely  opp.  the  point 
of  land  in  Sect.  15,  T.  42,  R.  3^,  4th  M.,  where  one  Baker  located  his 
tradfng-house  in  1831.  It  is  formally  named  Pine  camp  when  it  is  passed  on 
the  way  down,  Mar.  4th,  1806  :  see  that  date.  Olmsted's  bar  is  the  Sixth  rapid 
of  Nicollet,  at  a  place  where  the  river  expands  and  contains  a  cluster  of  small 
islands,  called  The  Sirens  by  Beltrami,  II.  p.  ,^66. 


FORT   RIPLEY — NOKASIPPI   RIVER. 


127 


Dec.  ijth.  Departed  from  our  agreeable  encampment  at 
an  early  hour.  Found  our  sleds  to  be  very  heavily  loaded. 
Broke  one  sled-runner  and  were  detained  by  other  circum- 
stances. Bradley,  Rosseau  the  interpreter,  and  myself  killed 
four  deer  and  wounded  five  others.  Having  1 1  on  hand 
already,  I  found  it  necessary  to  leave  behind  some  of  my 
other  lading.  At  night  we  dug  a  hole,  four  feet  deep,  three 
feet  wide,  and  six  feet  long,  in  which  we  put  one  barrel  of 
pork  and  one  barrel  of  flour,  after  wrapping  them  up  in 
seven  deerskins  to  preserve  them  from  the  damp ;  we  then 
filled  up  the  hole  and  built  our  fire  immediately  over  it." 

Dec.  i8th.  Did  not  get  off  until  eight  o'clock,  from  the 
delay  in  bringing  in  our  meat.  Ice  tolerably  good.  Began 
to  see  the  Chipeway  encampments  very  frequently,  but  had 
not  entirely  left  the  Sioux  country  on  the  western  shore. 
Beautiful  pine  ridges. 

Dec.  igth.  Were  obliged  to  take  to  the  prairie,  from  the 
river's  being  open  :  but  the  snow  was  frozen  hard  and  the 
sleds  did  not  sink  deep,  so  that  we  made  a  pretty  good  day's 

*•  This  cache  was  in  the  vicinity  of  present  Fort  Ripley.  The  town  now  so 
called  is  on  the  E.  side  ;  railroad  ;  pop.  500.  Old  Fort  Ripley  itself  is 
on  the  W.  side,  a  mile  off ;  some  of  the  buildings  still  stand.  This  post,  or 
another  in  the  same  place,  was  once  called  Fort  Gaines  ;  Prairie  Percee  of  the  F. 
intersected  the  river  a  little  below.  The  fort  is  in  the  N.  E.  %  of  Sect.  7,  T. 
131,  R.  2g,  5th  M.,  about  a  half  mile  below  the  mouth  of  Nokasippi  r.,  which 
falls  in  from  the  E.  through  Sect.  27,  T.  43,  R.  32,  4th  M.  This  is  a 
considerable  stream  :  Nokasippi  and  Noka  Sipi  of  Schoolcraft ;  Nokay  r.  of 
Nicollet  and  of  Owen  ;  Nokasele  on  one  of  my  maps,  Nankesele  and  Nankele 
on  others;  Woco-sibi  of  Beltrami's  text,  II.  p.  466,  Wokeosiby  and  Prophet  r. 
on  Ills  map.  This  hint  that  the  name  is  a  personal  one  is  correct.  Noka  was 
a  Chippewa,  the  grandfather  of  White  Fisher  or  Waubojeeg.  "  It  is  from  this 
old  warrior  and  stalwart  hunter,  who  fearlessly  passed  his  summers  on  the  string 
of  lakes  which  form  the  head  of  the  No-ka  river,  which  empties  into  the  Missis- 
sippi nearly  opposite  present  site  of  Fort  Ripley,  that  the  name  of  this  stream 
is  derived,"  says  W.  W.  Warren,  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  V.  1885,  p.  26t>.  It  is 
mapped  by  Pike  and  mentioned  by  him  beyond  at  date  of  Mar.  3d,  1806  ;  but 
he  has  no  name  for  it.  Allen's  map  gives  it  as  Long  r.  But  the  earliest  name 
of  the  stream  I  can  discover  is  on  Lewis  and  Clark's  map,  pub.  18 14,  where  it 
is  called  Scrub  Oak  r.,  no  doubt  from  the  prairie  above  it,  to  which  Pike  gave 
that  name.  On  reaching  ownline  42-3,  Pike  leaves  Morrison  for  Crow  Wing 
Co.,  on  the  right,  but  still  has  the  former  on  his  left,  up  to  Crow  Wing  r. 


128 


THE   CROW  WING  RIVER. 


ft,,. 


journey.  Killed  one  deer  and  two  otters.  River  still  open. 
Distance  lo  miles." 

Dec.  20th.  Traveled  part  of  the  day  on  the  prairie  and 
on  the  ice.  Killed  one  deer.  Heard  three  reports  of  guns 
just  at  sunset,  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  De- 
ported one  barrel  of  flour.     Distance  seven  miles." 

Dec.  2ist.  Bradley  and  myself  went  on  ahead  and  over- 
took  my  interpreter,  who  had  left  camp  very  early  in  hopes 
that  he  would  be  able  to  see  'he  river  De  Corbeau,  where 
ha  had  twic^";  wintered.  He  w  is  immediately  opposite  a 
large  island  [lie  de  Corbeau  "],    'hich  he  supposed  to  have 

*•  To  some  point  probably  more  than  halfway  between  the  Nokasippi  and 
Crow  Wing  rivers,  perhaps  not  far  from  the  station  or  siding  Albion  (St.  Paul 
Div.  of  N.  P.  R.  R.).  It  is  beyond  Lenox,  and  a  little  above  that  creek  for 
which  I  find  no  name,  but  which  falls  in  from  the  \V.  through  Sect.  24,  T.  132, 
R.  30,  5th  M. 

"  To  a  position  immediately  below  the  mouth  of  the  Crow  Wing  r. 

"  Riviere  a  I'Aile  de  Corbeau  of  the  F.,  usually  shortened  into  R.  de  Corbeau, 
though  Eng.  Crow  Wing  r.  reflects  the  full  name.  The  large  island  at  its  mouth 
was  called  Isle  or  fie  de  Corbeau,  and  I  suspect  that  the  similarity  of  aile  and 
islt  or  tie  may  be  concerned  in  this  nomenclaSure.  The  river  sometimes  appears 
as  Crow  r.,  rendering  the  shorter  F.  form  ;  in  sucit  instance  it  must  not  be  con- 
founded with  Crow  r.  much  lower  down  the  Mississippi ;  see  note  ",  p.  97. 
Crow  Wing  also  appears  as  Crow-wing,  and  I  have  found  both  Cow-wing  and 
Crowing  r.  in  Schoolcraft.  Raven  r.  is  another  name  ;  Pike  sometimes  uses 
this.  Beltrami  has  Raven's  Plume  r.  and  Crow  Feather  r.  Nicollet  calls  it 
Kagiwan  r.  Tliis  is  the  largest  branch  of  the  Mississippi  above  Little  lalls. 
The  unnumbered  affluents  which  unite  to  compose  the  main  stream  head  in 
lakes  and  marshes  of  Hubbard,  Becker,  Otter  Tail,  Wadena,  and  Todd  cos. 
Having  received  most  of  its  tributaries,  and  coursed  through  Wadena,  the  river 
for  a  short  distance  separates  Todd  from  Cass  Co.,  and  then  runs  between  Cass 
and  Morrison  to  empty  opp.  the  town  of  Crow  Wing.  Crow  Wing  r.  was  impor- 
tant as  a  means  of  communication  between  the  Mississippi  and  Red  River  of 
the  North.  It  was  navigated  up  to  the  mouth  of  R.  des  Feuilles,  now  Leaf  r.,  in 
the  S.  part  of  Wadena  Co.;  thence  the  route  was  up  Leaf  r.,  and  by  portage 
into  Otter  Tail  1.,  one  of  the  principal  sources  of  Red  r.  waters.  Crow  Wing  r. 
was  also  a  route  to  Leech  1.  Schoolcraft  made  the  trip  this  way  from  Leech  1. 
to  the  Miss.  r.  in  July,  1832  ;  his  map,  pub.  1834,  letters  some  of  the  main 
branches  Kioshk  r. ,  Longprairie  or  Warwater  r.,  and  Leaf  r.  Tlie  chain  of 
lal  on  this  route  are  in  his  nomenclature  as  follows,  from  below  upwanl ; 
I,  Kaichibo  Sagitowa  ;  2.  Johnston's  ;  3.  Allen's ;  4.  Longrice  (Long  Rice) ; 
5.  Sammit  ;  6.  Vieux  Desert  ;  7.  Ossowa  ;  8.  Pie  ;  9.  Birth  ;  10.  Little  Ver- 
million ;  ir.  Kaginogumag,  source  of  the  river.      Four  small  ones  thence  to 


l'-!^i 


THE   EXPEDITION   UP  TO  CROW  WING. 


139 


great  resemblance  to  an  island  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
above  river  ;  but  finally  he  concluded  it  was  not  the  island 
and  returned  to  camp.  But  this  was  actually  the  [Rivifere 
dc  Corbeau  or  Crow  Wing]  river,  as  we  discovered  when  we 
got  to  the  head  of  the  island,  from  which  we  could  see 
the  river's  entrance.  This  fact  exposes  the  ignorance  and 
inattention  of  the  French  and  traders,  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  intelligent  men,  what  little  confidence  is  to  be 
placed  on  their  intormation.  We  ascended  the  Mississippi 
about  five  miles  above  the  confluence  ;  found  it  not  frozen, 
but  in  many  places  not  more  than  100  yards  over,  mild  and 
still ;  it  had  indeed  all  the  appearance  of  a  small  river  of 
a  low  country.  Returned  and  found  that  my  party,  having 
broken  sleds,  etc.,  had  only  made  good  three  miles,  while 
I  had  marched  35. 

Sutiday,  Dec.  22d.  Killed  three  deer.  Owing  to  the 
many  difficult  places  we  had  to  pass,  made  but  4^  miles. 

Dec.  2jd.  Never  did  I  undergo  more  fatigue,  performing 
the  duties  of  hunter,  spy,  guide,  commanding  officer,  etc., 
sometimes  in  front,  sometimes  in  the  rear,  frequently  in  ad- 
vance of  my  party  10  or  15  miles.  At  night  I  was  scarcely 
able  to  make  my  notes  intelligible.  Killed  two  raccoons. 
From  our  sleds  breaking  down,  and  having  to  make  so 
many  portages  on  the  road,  made  but  four  miles." 


Leech  1.  are  called  Lake  of  the  Island,  Lake  of  the  Mountain,  Little  Long 
1.,  and  Warpool  1.  The  branch  which  Schoolcraft  calls  Kiosh  is  Nicollet's 
Gayashk  r,,  now  called  Gull  r. ;  a  lake  on  it  has  the  same  name,  and  one  higher 
up  is  Lake  Sibley  of  Nicollet.  Nicollet  says  that  he  contracted  Gayashk  from 
Chip.  Kagayashkensikang,  "  the  place  where  there  are  little  gulls  [terns]," 
Rep.  1843,  p.  54.  Cull  r.  comes  from  the  N.,  approx.  parallel  with  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  falls  into  Crow  Wing  r.  omy  some  3  or  4  m.  above  its  mouth  ;  about 
the  same  distance  up  it  is  crossed  by  the  N.  P.  R.  R.,  at  or  near  Gull  River 
station  (between  Baxter  and  Sylvan  Lake  stations). 

^'  This  seems  to  bring  the  whole  party  up  to  Crow  Wing  isl. ,  opp.  old  tovv ..  of 
Crow  Wing.  Pike  says  himself  that  he  could  scarcely  make  his  notes  intelligi- 
ble, but  we  certainly  know  where  he  is  to-day,  and  have  probably  checked  him 
from  Little  Falls  with  all  the  accuracy  the  case  admits.  The  town  was  mainly 
in  Sect.  24,  T.  44,  R.  32,  4th  M.,  but  settlements  in  1857  were  in  Sect.  23  ; , 
pop.  in  1866,  600  ;  Brainerd  killed  the  place  about  1870  :  see  Harper's  Mag., 


130 


CHRISTMAS  DAY — BRAINERD. 


Dec.  2if.th.  Took  the  latitude  of  the  Isle  de  Corbeau,  and 
found  it  to  be  in  45"  49'  50"  N.  [It  is  above  46°.]  The 
Mississippi  becomes  very  narrow  above  the  river  De  Corbeau; 
and,  as  if  it  were  the  forks,  changes  its  direction  from  hard 
W.  [read  N.]  to  N.  E.  generally."     Distance  10^  miles." 

Dec.  25th.  Marched,  and  encamped  at  eleven  o'clock. 
Gave  out  two  pounds  of  extra  meat,  two  pounds  of  extra 
flour,  one  gill  of  whisky,  and  some  tobacco  per  man,  in  order 
to  distinguish  Christmas  Day.  Distance  three  miles.  [Not 
quite  to  Brainerd  yet.] 

Dec.  26th.  Broke  four  sleds,  broke  into  the  river  four 
times,  and  had  four  carrying-places,  since  we  left  the  river 
De  Corbeau.  The  timber  was  all  yellow  and  pitch  pine,  of 
•which  there  were  scarcely  any  below.     Distance  three  miles." 

Dec.  2yth.  After  two  carrying-places  we  arrived  where 
the  river  was  completely  closed  with  ice;  after  which  we 


XIX.  1859,  p.  47.  Thos.  Cowperthwait's  map  of  Minn.,  Phila.,  1850,  letters 
"  Morrison's"  on  the  town  site. 

*•"  Hard  W."  is  a  misprint  for  N.,  the  general  course  of  the  river  as  you 
ascend,  for  many  miles,  till  the  Crow  Wing  is  reached  ;  after  this  the  Missis- 
sippi bears  N.  E. ;  and  as  the  Crow  Wing  comes  in  from  the  W.,  and  is  very 
large,  their  confluence  is,  as  it  were,  the  forks  of  the  Mississippi. 

**  The  whole  way  by  river  from  Crow  Wing  to  Pine  r.  (che  next  place  where 
•we  can  certainly  check  Pike),  is  only  34  m.  He  makes  it  io^-|-3-|-3-|-i°+ 
i2-\-2i-\-i2='ji}4  m.,  with  something  over  for  morning  of  Dec.  vist.  Hence 
■we  have  to  cut  him  down  about  half.  His  "  10}4"  m.  takes  him  about  6  m. 
toward  Brainerd,  with  nothing  to  note  on  the  way,  excepting  a  small  creek 
on  the  left  hand,  in  Sect.  26,  T.  133,  R.  29,  5th  M.  From  Crow  Wing  to 
Brainerd  is  11^  m.  by  the  river;  Crow  Wing  Co.  continues  on  the  right; 
on  the  left  is  Cass  Co.,  according  to  such  a  presumably  authoritative  map 
as  that  of  the  G.  L.  O.,  1893  ;  but  in  fact  Crow  Wing  Co.  also  extends  on  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  Mississippi  from  a  point  about  i}4  m.  above  the  mouth  of 
Crow  Wing  r.  upward  for  many  miles,  its  W.  border  being  along  the  middle 
line  of  R.  29. 

*•  To  Brainerd,  Crow  Wing  Co.,  called  City  of  the  Pines,  now  easily  first  in  this 
part  of  the  State  ;  pop.  10,000  ;  junction  of  St.  Paul  div.  with  main  N.  P.  R.  R., 
136  m.  from  St.  Paul  by  rail,  114  from  Duluth ;  recent  utilization  of  the  fall 
of  the  river  furnishing  perhaps  30,000  horse-power  ;  water-works,  electric  lights, 
etc.  It  is  a  center  of  the  lumber  interests,  and  a  focus  of  roads  from  every 
•direction  ;  the  river  is  bridged,  and  the  surplus  population  forms  West  Brainerd. 
Brainerd  was  laid  out  by  the  railroad  in  1870,  and  has  no  earlier  history. 


RICE   RIVER— FRENCH   RAPIDS— RABBIT  RIVER.        I3I 


;au,  and 
.]  The 
lorbeau; 
»m  hard 
iiles.=" 

o'clock. 
of  extra 

in  order 
s.    [Not 

iver  four 
the  river 
1  pine,  of 
:e  miles." 
ed  where 
ivhich  we 

1850,  letters 

river  as  you 

a  the  Missis- 
,,and  is  very 


proceeded  with  some  degree  of  speed  and  ease.  Killed  one 
bear.  The  country  on  both  sides  presented  a  dreary  and 
barren  prospect  of  high  rocks,  with  dead  pine  timber.  Snow. 
Distance  10  miles." 

Dec.  28th.  Two  sleds  fell  through  the  ice.  In  the  morn- 
ing passed  a  very  poor  country  with  bare  knobs  on  each 
side ;  but  toward  evening  the  bottoms  became  larger  and 
the  pine  ridges  better  timbered.  Bradley  and  myself 
marched  10  miles  beyond  the  sleds.  Killed  one  deer. 
Distance  12  miles." 

Sunday,  Dec.  zgth.  Cold,  windy  day.  Met  with  no  mate- 
rial interruptions ;  passed  some  rapids.  The  snow  blew  from 
the  woods  on  to  the  river.  The  country  was  full  of  small 
lakes,  some  three  miles  in  circumference.   Distance  21  miles." 

Dec.joth.  The  snow  having  drifted  on  the  ice  retarded 
the  sleds.  Numerous  small  lakes  and  pine  ridges  continued. 
A  new  species  of  pine,  called  the  French  sap  pine.  Killed 
one  otter  [^Lutra  canadensis].     Distance  12  miles." 

*'  Beyond  Rice  r.  or  cr.,  Nagajika  cr.  of  Nicollet,  which  falls  in  on  the  right, 
in  Sect.  18,  T.  45,  R.  30,4th  M.,  about  3  m.  above  Brainerd,  and  is  to  be  dis- 
tinguished from  another  of  the  same  name  higher  up  on  the  same  side  ;  also, 
past  French  rapids,  the  Seventh  of  Nicollet,  which  were  Pike's  carrying-places 
to-day.    Above  these  he  found  the  river  frozen  solid. 

*''  Vicinity  of  Sander.,  from  the  right.  This  is  mapped  by  Nicollet,  but  with- 
out name.  It  falls  in  through  Sect,  27,  T.  46,  R.  30,  4th  M. ;  directly  opposite 
its  mouth  is  a  smaller  creek,  from  the  left. 

^  To  a  position  at  or  near  the  stream  called  White  Bear-skin  r.  by  the  geologist 
D.  Norwood,  1847,  being  the  discharge  of  Duck  1.  and  Swamp  1.,  two  of  the 
largest  of  the  numerous  small  lakes  that  lie  close  along  this  course  of  the  river. 
They  are  close  together  ;  each  is  about  2  m.  long  and  at  one  point  only  a  mile 
or  so  to  the  left  of  the  river.  Lake  Taliaferro  of  Nicollet  is  on  this  connec- 
tion, but  further  off.  Pike  is  fairly  within  the  great  lacustrine  region  of  Minne- 
sota, where  there  are  more  lakes  than  have  ever  been  counted.  Half  Moon  1. 
is  a  little  one,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  discharge  of  '  >uck  and  Swamp  lakes. 
The  most  notable  point  Pike  passes  to-day  is  the  mouth  of  Rabbit  r.,  on  the 
right.  This  is  a  considerable  stream  discharging  from  a  set  of  lakes  (one  at 
least  of  which  has  the  same  name),  at  the  junction  of  Sects.  13  and  24,  T. 
4f>.  R.  30,  4th  M.,  at  or  near  the  foot  of  Island  rapids.  A  smaller  creek,  also 
from  the  right,  empties  below,  in  Sect.  24.  Higher  up  are  some  rapids  called 
Big  Eddy. 

■**  Nearly  to  the  mouth  of  Pine  r.  (not  to  be  confounded  with  Pike's  Pine  cr., 


132 


PINE   RIVER— CHIPPEWA   CAMPS. 


Dec.  Jist.  Passed  Pine  "  river  about  eleven  o'clock.  At 
its  mouth  there  was  a  Chipeway's  encampment  of  15  lodges; 
this  had  been  occupied  in  the  summer,  but  was  now  vacant. 
By  the  significations  of  their  marks  we  understood  that  they 
had  marched  a  party  of  50  warriors  against  the  Sioux,  and 
had  killed  four  men  and  four  women,  which  were  repre- 
sented by  images  carved  out  of  pine  or  cedar.  The  four 
men  were  painted  and  put  in  the  ground  to  the  middle, 
leaving  above  ground  those  parts  which  are  generally  con- 
cealed ;  by  their  sides  were  four  painted  poles,  sharpened  at 
the  end  to  represent  the  women.  Near  this  were  poles  with 
deerskins,  plumes,  silk  handkerchiefs,  etc.;  also,  a  circular 
hoop  of  cedar  with  something  attached,  representing  a  scalp. 
Near  each  lodge  they  had  holes  dug  in  the  ground,  and 
boughs  ready  to  cover  them,  as  a  retreat  for  their  women 
and  children  if  attacked  by  the  Sioux. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  ist,  1806.  Passed  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  L*  m.  above  Dean  brook]  six  very  elegant  bark  canoes, 
which  had  been  laid  up  by  the  Chipeways ;  also,  a  camp 
which  we  conceived  to  have  been  evacuated  about  ten  days. 
My  interpreter  came  after  me  in  a  great  hurry,  conjuring  me 
not  to  go  so  far  ahead,  and  assured  me  that  the  Chipeways, 
encountering  me  without  an  interpreter,  party,  or  flag, 
would  certainly  kill  me.  Notwithstanding  this  I  went  on 
several  miles  further  than  usual,  in  order  to  make  any  dis- 
coveries that  were  to  be  made ;  conceiving  the  savages  not 
so  barbarous  or  ferocious  as  to  fire  on  two  men  (I  had  one 
with  me)  who  were  apparently  coming  into  their  country, 
trusting  to  their  generosity ;  and  knowing  that  if  we  met 
only  two  or  three  we  were  equal  to  them,  I  having  my  gun 

now  Swan  r.) :  see  next  note.  The  new  species  of  pine  "called  the  French  sap 
pine,"  is  the  balsam-fir,  Abies  balsamea.  Pike  meant  to  say  "called  by  the 
French  sapin."    The  text  of  1807,  p.  31,  has  "  Sappine." 

*'  Present  name  of  the  largest  stream  in  the  northern  portion  of  Crow  Wing 
Co.,  falling  in  from  the  N.  in  the  S.  W.  X  o^  Sect.  25,  T.  136,  R.  27, 
5th  M.,  at  a  sharp  bend  the  Mississippi  here  makes.  Pine  r.  has  been  so 
called  by  pretty  nearly  all  writers  since  Pike's  time  ;  but  Beltrami  has  it  Sin- 
guoako  or  Pines  r.     It  is  connected  directly,  or  indirectly,  with  an  immense  num- 


"^"■■■■il 


MR.  GRANT— LOWER  RED  CEDAR  LAKE. 


133 


and  pistols  and  he  his  buck-shot.  Made  some  extra  presents 
for  New  Year's  Day. 

Jan.  2d.  Fine  warm  day.  Discovered  fresh  sign  of 
Indians.  Just  as  we  were  encamping  at  night,  my  sentinel 
informed  us  that  some  Indians  were  coming  full  speed  upon 
our  trail  or  track.  I  ordered  my  men  to  stand  by  their 
fjuns  carefully.  They  were  immediately  at  my  camp,  and 
saluted  the  flag  by  a  discharge  of  three  pieces ;  when  four 
Chipeways,  one  Englishman,  and  a  Frenchman  of  the 
N.  W.  Company,  presented  themselves.  They  informed  us 
that  some  women,  having  discovered  our  trail,  gave  the 
alarm,  and  not  knowing  but  it  was  their  enemies,  they  had 
departed  to  make  a  discovery.  They  had  heard  of  us  and 
revered  our  flag.  Mr.  [Cuthbert?]  Grant,  the  Englishman, 
had  only  arrived  the  day  before  from  Lake  De  Sable  [Sandy 
lake],  from  which  he  had  marched  in  one  day  and  a  half. 
I  presented  the  Indians  with  half  a  deer,  which  they 
received  thankfully,  for  they  had  discovered  our  fires  some 
days  ago,  and  believing  it  to  be  the  Sioux,  they  dared  not 
leave  their  camp.  They  returned,  but  Mr.  Grant  remained 
all  night. 

Jan.  jd.  My  party  marched  early,  but  I  returned  with 
Mr.  Grant  to  his  establishment  on  [Lower]  Red  Cedar 
Lake,  having  one  corporal  with  me.  When  we  came  in 
sight  of  his  house  I  observed  the  flag  of  Great  Britain 
flying.  I  felt  indignant,  and  cannot  say  what  my  feelings 
would  have  excited  me  to  do,  had  he  not  informed  me  that 
it  belonged  to  the  Indians.  This  was  not  much  more 
agreeable  to  me.  After  explaining  to  a  Chipeway  warrior 
called  Curly  Head  [Curleyhead  in  text  of  1807,  p.  33"]  the 

ber  of  small  lakes,  not  all  of  which  have  ever  been  counted,  and  st'U  fewer 
named.  Two  of  the  largest  are  called  Whitefish  and  Pelican.  Tl...  .vhr  e 
system  of  waters  lies  to  the  N.  and  W.  of  the  Mississippi,  S.  of  Leech  laKe, 
and  on  Pike's  left  as  he  ascends.  It  offered  a  means  of  communication  with 
Leech  lake  much  more  direct  than  the  course  of  the  Mississippi  itself  ;  this  was 
taken  by  Pike  on  his  return  journey,  and  the  river  is  consequently  to  be  par- 
ticularly noted  in  that  connection  :  see  under  dates  of  Feb.  I9th-24th,  beyond. 
<*  Curly  Head  does  not  appear  in  Pike's  tabular  exhibit  of  Chippewa  chiefs, 


134 


CURLY  HEAD— LOWER  RED  CEDAR  LAKE. 


f^! 


object  of  my  voyage,  and  receiving  his  answer  that  he 
would  remain  tranquil  until  my  return,  we  ate  a  good  break- 
fast for  the  country,  departed,  and  overtook  my  sleds  just 
at  dusk.     Killed  one  porcupine.     Distance  i6  miles." 

and  we  are  left  without  his  native  name,  or  any  fair  identification  ;  but  Hon. 
W.  W.  Warren  supplies  the  requisite  data,  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  V.  1885,  p.  47, 
p.  348  seq.^  p.  366  ;  see  also  ibid.  p.  469  seq.  and  p.  495.  The  name  of  the 
old  civil  and  military  chief  Uabesigaundibay  is  inseparably  linked  with  the 
history  of  his  tribe.  He  belonged  to  the  Businause  family,  or  Crane  totem,  .and 
ruled  for  many  years  over  the  Chippewas  of  the  Mississippi  r.,  in  the  vicinity 
of  (jayashk  or  Gull  1.,  eventually  becoming  the  third  man  in  importance  in 
the  councils  of  his  nation,  sharing  honors  with  Broken  Tooth  of  Sandy  1.  and 
Flat  Mouth  of  Leech  1.  His  people  increased  in  numbers,  held  the  Crow 
Wing  region  against  all  enemies,  and  in  1852  numbered  about  600.  Curly  Head 
was  respected  and  beloved  ;  "  he  was  a  father  to  his  people  ;  they  looked  on 
him  as  children  do  to  a  parent  ;  and  his  lightest  wish  was  immediately  per- 
formed. His  lodge  was  ever  full  of  meat,  to  which  the  hungry  and  destitute 
were  ever  welcome.  The  traders  vied  with  one  another  who  should  treat  him 
best,  and  the  presents  which  he  received  at  their  hands  he  always  distrii)utcil  to 
his  people  without  reserve."  This  estimable  man  died  on  his  way  back  from 
the  grand  conference  held  at  Prairie  du  Chien  by  Governors  William  Clark  .ind 
Lewis  Cass,  Aug.  19th,  1825.  His  signature  to  this  treaty,  as  printed  in  one  of 
the  copies  before  me,  is  "  Babaseekeendase,  Curling  Hair."  I  elsewhere  find 
Babikesundeba.  Curly  Head  died  childless  ;  on  his  death-bed  he  called  two  of 
his  pipe-bearers  and  formally  constituted  them  his  successors.  These  were 
brothers  ;  one  was  Songukumigor,  St.oiig  Ground,  and  the  other  Pugonakeshig, 
or  Hole  in  the  Day  I.  The  latter  exerted  great  influence  for  about  a  quarter  of 
a  century,  killed  36  people,  and  was  killed  by  being  bounced  out  of  a  cart 
while  drunk,  near  Platte  r.,  Benton  Co.,  Minn.,  early  in  1847. 

*'  No  mileage  from  Dec.  31st,  1805,  to  Jan.  3d,  1806  :  so  we  must  check  Pike 
by  other  data.  From  Pine  r.  to  town  of  Aitkin,  Aitkin  Co.,  is  32^  m,  by 
river  ;  this  is  very  tortuous  ;  air-line  distance  between  these  points,  16^  m.,  or 
just  one-half  of  the  river-miles.  At  12  of  these  direct  miles'  distance  above 
Pine  r.  and  4^  below  Aitkin  is  our  most  important  datum-point,  viz.,  mouth 
of  Lower  Red  Cedar  r.  This  is  the  discharge  of  Lower  Red  Cedar  1.,  a  com- 
paratively large  body  of  water  6  m.  to  the  right  (nearly  S.  from  the  mouth  of 
L,  R.  C.  r.).  On  the  shore  of  L.  R.  C.  1.,  half  a  mile  E.  S.  E.  of  the  place  where 
the  river  issues  from  it,  was  the  post  of  the  N.  W,  Co.,  whence  the  party  that 
met  Pike  on  the  2d  came  to  see  what  was  up,  and  to  which  Pike  repairs  as  Mr. 
Grant's  guest  on  the  3d.  While  it  is  true  that  these  facts  do  not  fix  the  three 
camps  with  all  desirable  precision,  they  enable  us  to  carry  Pike  on  by  "  rule  of 
thumb  "  in  an  intelligible  manner.  I  propose,  therefore,  to  set  him  one-third 
of  the  way  from  Pine  r.  to  Lower  Red  Cedar  r.  on  the  31st  of  Dec. — say  opp. 
Rabbit  1.;    two-thirds  of  this  way  on  the  ist  of  Jan. — some  point  between 


7"«^*iip 


CAMP  ABLAZE— AITKIN— "  POINTS." 


135 


that  he 
d  brcak- 
eds  just 


,  but   lion. 
1885,  p.  47, 
ame  of  the 
;d  with  llie 
■  totem,  and 
the  vicinity 
iportance  in 
Sandy  1.  and 
Id  the  Crow 
Curly  Head 
ey  looked  on 
ediately  per- 
and  destitute 
lid  treat  him 
iistrilnitcd  to 
ly  back  from 
am  Clark  and 
nted  in  one  o( 
Isewhere  find 
called  two  uf 
These  were 
'ugonakeshig, 
,t  a  quarter  of 
lut  of  a  cart 


Jan.  /f-th.  Wc  made  28  points*"  in  the  river ;  broad,  good 
bottom,  and  of  the  usual  timber.  In  the  night  I  was 
awakened  by  the  cry  of  the  sentinel,  calling  repeatedly  to 
the  men ;  at  length  he  vociferated,  "  G — d  d — n  your  souls, 
will  you  let  the  lieutenant  be  burned  to  death  ? "  This 
immediately  aroused  me.  At  first  I  seized  my  arms,  but 
looking  round  1  saw  my  tents  in  flames.  The  men  flew  to 
my  assistance  and  we  tore  them  down,  but  not  until  they 
wore  entirely  ruined.    This,  with  the  loss  of  my  leggins. 

Dean  cr.  and  Hay  cr. ,  both  of  which  fall  in  on  the  left  (probably  a  mile  above 
Dean  cr. — see  Feb.  24th,  beyond)  ;  at  mouth  of  Lower  Red  Cedar  r.,  Jan.  2d  ; 
at  Aitkin  Jan.  3d — to  reach  which  Little  Willow  r.,  flowing  S.  from  Waukenabo 
r.nd  Esquagamau  lakes,  is  passed.  These  stages  cannot  in  any  event  be  far  out 
of  the  way  ;  and  to  so  make  them  brings  up  all  the  points  worth  noting  between 
Pine  r.  and  Aitkin  in  orderly  sequence.  The  principal  ones  are  the  lake  and 
the  town.  The  lake  has  been  well  known  since  the  days  of  the  old  French 
regime ;  its  relations  with  Mille  T^acs  are  intimate,  and  it  was  thus  of  consequence 
in  connection  with  old  canoe-routes  ;  it  was  for  many  years  also  tlie  situation  of 
important  trading-posts.  It  was  le  Bus  Lac  aux  Cidres  Rouges  of  ths  French, 
Loiuer  Red  Cedar  1.,  in  distinction  from  another  one  of  similar  name,  now 
Cass  1.  The  distinction  is  to  be  sedulously  borne  in  mind,  especially  as  Pike 
most  often  ignores  it  formally,  and  repeatedly  speaks  of  "  Red  Cedar"  or 
"  Cedar "  1.  indifferently,  meaning  the  present  one  when  he  is  here.ibouts, 
.intl  meaning  Cass  1.  when  he  is  thereabouts  ;  the  name  is  also  now  commonly 
clipped  down  to  Cedar  1.  and  Cedar  r.  or  cr.,  meaning  this  one,  in  modern 
geographies  and  guide-books.  Lower  Red  Cedar  1.  is  large,  with  perhaps  50  m. 
of  shore-line  altogether  ;  it  bears  from  Aitkin  in  the  direction  of  Brainerd  ; 
some  of  its  relations  are  with  smaller  bodies  of  water  known  as  Crystal  1.,  Mud 
1,,  Spirit  1.,  Hanging  Kettle  1.,  Pine  1.,  Farm  Island  1.,  and  Sesabrigoniag  1. 
Cedar  Lake  station  is  about  5  m.  W.  of  Aitkin,  N.  P.  R.  K.  Aitkin  is  per 
schedule  by  rail  27  m.  from  Brainerd,  87  m.  from  Duluth  ;  population  1,000  ; 
for  persons  named  Aitkin  (not  Aiken  or  Aitken),  see  that  word  in  the  Index. 
The  present  town  is  on  the  right  hand  going  up,  left  or  S.  side  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, at  the  mouth  of  Mud  or  Muddy  r.  (Ripple  cr.),  a  considerable  stream, 
connected  with  a  system  of  small  lakes.  It  fjills  into  the  Mississippi  in  Sect. 
I,  T.  47,  R.  27,  4th  M.;  and  in  this  same  section  is  the  mouth  of  a  stream 
which  Owen  called  Sesabagomag  r.,  but  which  I  find  given  as  Missagony  r.  on 
late  maps.  Nicollet  charted  it,  with  no  name.  Below  the  mouth  of  Lower 
Red  Cedar  r.  Pike  goes  from  Crow  Wing  into  Aitkin  Co.  He  had  passed  the 
county  line  Jan.  3d. 

"  "  Point "  a.s  a  measure  of  distance  is  not  a  well-known  term,  and  I  am  not 
sure  of  what  it  means.  There  is  some  internal  evidence  in  Pike  that  one  of  his 
"points"  was  from  ^  to  ^  to  ^  m.,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  ground 


\iiV 


136 


MUD,  MISSAGONY,  AND   RICE   RIVERS. 


mockinsons,  socks,  etc.,  which  I  had  hung  up  to  dry,  was  no 
trivial  misfortune,  in  such  a  country  and  on  such  a  voyage. 
But  I  had  reason  to  thank  God  that  the  powder,  three  small 
casks  of  which  I  had  in  my  tent,  did  not  take  fire  ;  it  it  had 
I  must  certainly  have  lost  all  my  baggage,  if  not  my  life. 

Sunday,  Jan.  §tk.  Mr.  Grant  promised  to  overtake  me 
yesterday,  but  has  not  yet  arrived.  I  conceived  it  would 
be  necessary  to  attend  his  motions  with  careful  observation. 
Distance  27  miles." 


1   c^iw.ii 


and  the  degree  of  "that  tired  feeling"  which  is  liable  to  overcome  the  most 
pushing  wayfarer.  I  imagine  "  point  "  to  correspond  to  iht  pattse  or  pose  of  the 
voyageurs.  In  their  language  a  piece  was  a  package  of  any  goods,  made  up  to 
weigh  from  50  to  100  lbs.,  supposed  to  weigh  about  90  on  an  average,  for  con- 
venience of  transportation  over  portages.  Such  a  pack  would  be  slung  on  tlie 
shoulders  by  the  Jillet  or  forehead  strap  ;  and  the  voyageur  would  start  off 
at  a  dog-trot  and  drop  it  when  he  got  tired.  This  stop  or  rest  was  the  f<ose; 
the  Chip,  name  was  opuggiddiwanan,  lit.  the  place  of  putting  down  the  pack. 
Pike  had  to  the  last  degree  the  first  qualification  of  a  traveler — "go"  ;  jjeopie 
who  lack  plenty  of  that  should  stay  at  home.  That  he  was  a  prudent  or 
judicious  traveler  can  hardly  be  said  ;  he  must  have  been  a  terrible  fellow  to 
push,  merciless  on  his  men,  and  especially  on  himself.  He  took  all  the 
chances  per  aspera,  when  some  of  the  roughest  things  might  have  been 
smoothed  or  avoided  had  his  foresight  been  as  good  as  his  hindsight.  He  blew 
up  things  with  gunpowder  once,  and  it  is  a  wonder  he  was  not  blown  up  on  the 
4th,  instead  of  being  only  burnt  out.  He  missed  very  few  of  the  accidents  tliat 
the  spirits  of  fire,  air,  earth,  and  water  could  conspire  to  throw  in  his  way ;  and 
his  faithless  sergeant  made  away  with  all  the  spirits  he  had  in  the  keg  at 
Swan  r.  However,  he  got  thri.  'Jn.  all  right,  and  got  his  men  all  through  too— 
sic  iter  ad  astra. 

^*  The  direct  distance  from  Aitkin  to  the  site  of  the  N.  W.  Co.  house,  at  least 
I  m.  S.  of  the  outlet  of  Sandy  1.,  is  about  24  m.;  the  river  is  also  pretty  direct 
as  a  whole,  between  these  two  places  ;  but  it  is  extremely  tortuous  in  its  many 
minor  bends  of  a  mile  or  two  apiece,  so  that  the  distance  the  sledges  traveled 
on  the  ice  may  have  been  twice  as  far  as  that  by  the  way  Pike  and  Bradley 
forged  ahead.  These  two  reached  Mr.  Grant's  house  on  the  night  of  the  8th  • 
the  men  with  the  sledges,  not  till  evening  of  the  13th.  The  two  sets  of  camps 
might  be  arbitrarily  set  along  this  lap,  by  ignoring  such  wild  figures  as  "27 
milfc%  "  for  the  5th,  and  assuming  other  data.  But  this  would  probal)ly  not  help 
us  to  a  better  understanding  of  this  section  of  the  route  than  the  following 
notrs  :  I,  Less  than  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  Mud  r.  (/, itkin)  a  stream  falls 
■n  en  the  right  ;  this  is  Missagony  r. ,  marked  Sesabagomag  r.  on  Owen's  map. 
2.  Rice  r,  (Manomin  r.  of  Nicollet's  map)  falls  in  on  the  right,  4j4  '"■  '" 
an  ai.  .ine  above  the  mouth  of  Mud  r.,   in  Sect.  4,   T.  47,   R.  26,  4tli  M. 


WILLOW   RIVER — RAPIDS — SANDY   LAKE. 


137 


I 


/an.  6th.  Bradley  and  myself  walked  up  31  points,  in 
hopes  to  discover  Lake  De  Sable  [Sandy  lake] ;  but  finding 
a  near  cut  of  20  yards  for  10  [two  ?]  miles,  and  being  fearful 
the  sleds  would  miss  it,  we  returned  23  points  before  we 
found  our  camp.  They  had  made  only  eight  points.  Met 
two  Frenchmen  of  the  N.  W.  Company  with  about  180 
[qu.  80!*]  pounds  on  each  of  their  backs,  with  rackets  [si  >w- 
shoes]  on ;  they  informed  me  that  Mr.  Grant  had  gone  on 
with  the  Frenchn.an.  Snow  fell  all  day  and  was  three  feet 
deep.     Spent  a  miserable  night. 

Jan.  yth.  Made  but  1 1  miles,  and  then  were  obliged  to 
send  ahead  and  make  fires  every  three  miles  ;  notwithstand- 
ing -^hich  the  cold  was  so  intense  that  some  of  the  men  had 

3.  Willow  r.  falls  in  on  the  left,  6  m.  in  an  air-line  above  the  month  of 
Rice  r.,  in  Sect.  2,  T.  48,  R.  26,  4th  M.  This  is  to  be  particularly  noted  in 
connection  with  Pike's  journey,  as  he  proceeds  approximately  by  way  of  this 
river  from  Sandy  1.  to  Gi.Tnd  Rapids  in  the  vicinity  of  Pokegama  falls.  It  is 
the  largest  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  on  that  side  between  Pine  r.  and  the 
Leech  I  "ke  branch  of  the  Mississippi.  Pike  charts  it  by  the  name  of  Pike  r. — 
not  his  own  n'xri'-,  as  Beltrami  implies,  II.  p.  446,  but  that  of  the  pike,  a  fish, 
translating  F.  Riviere  du  Brochet  ;  it  is  also  Pike  r.  of  Long's  map  ;  it  was 
called  Alder  r.  by  Cass  and  Meaogeo  r.  by  Beltrami ;  but  it  is  now  always 
known  as  Willow  r.  Its  system  of  lakes  is  also  in  close  relation  with  those  E. 
a.''  S.  E.  of  Leech  1.,  and  the  river  was  thus  one  of  the  recognized  routes  be- 
tween  this  lake  and  the  Mississippi.  Its  raouth  is  about  one-third  of  the  direct 
distance  between  Aitkin  and  Sandy  lake.  4.  There  are  some  rapids  above 
Willow  r.,  two  of  them  called  Moose  and  Sandy  Lake  rapids;  the  latter  are 
only  about  2j^  m.  direct  W.  from  the  lake,  but  fully  6  m.  by  the  bends 
of  the  river  ;  the  town  of  Portage  is  near  them.  Pike  and  Bradley  left  the  river 
at  some  point  below  these  rapids,  to  make  straight  for  the  lake.  5.  Sandy  1., 
Lac  au  Sable  or  de  Sable  of  the  French,  is  close  to  the  river,  on  the  right 
hand  going  up,  and  discharges  into  the  Mississippi  by  a  short  crooked  stream 
called  Sandy  Lake  r.,  2  m.  or  less  in  length.  Its  greatest  diameter  in  any 
direction  is  probably  under  5  m.,  but  the  figure  is  so  irregular,  with  such 
extensive  projections  into  the  main  body  of  waters,  that  the  actnai  -nore-line 
is  more  than  30  m.  It  receives  the  discharges  of  a  number  of  sma'ler  lakes 
in  the  vicinity,  among  them  one  called  Aitkin  by  Nicollet.  Its  principal 
feeders  are  two  in  number.  One  of  these  comes  in  at  the  southernmost  end  of 
the  lake,  and  takes  the  name  of  Sandy,  Sandy  Lake,  or  Rice  Lake  r.  The 
N.  r.  R,  R.  crosses  this  stream  near  McGregor,  which  is  12  ni.  by  the 
wagon-road  southward  from  the  discharge  of  the  lake.  This  river  has  a  main 
branch  from  Manomin  or  Rice  1. ;  and  either  this  branch  or  the  whole  river  is 


138 


POINTS  ABOUT  SANDY   LAKE. 


their  noses,  others  their  fingers,  and  others  their  toes  frozen, 
before  they  felt  the  cold  sensibly.  Very  severe  day's  march. 
Jan.  8th.  Conceiving  I  was  at  no  great  distance  from 
Sandy  Lake,  I  left  my  sleds,  and  with  Corporal  Bradley  took 
my  departure  for  that  place,  intending  to  send  him  back  the 
same  evening.  We  walked  on  very  briskly  until  near  night, 
when  we  met  a  young  Indian,  one  of  those  who  had  visited 
my  camp  near  [Lower]  Red  Cedar  Lake.  I  endeavored  to 
explain  to  h  that  it  was  my  wish  to  go  to  Lake  De  Sable 
that  evening.  He  returned  with  me  until  we  came  to  a  trail 
that  led  across  the  woods ;  this  he  signified  was  a  near 
course.  I  went  this  course  with  him,  and  she  ''/  after 
found  myself  at  a  Chipevvay  encampment,  to  which  1  believe 
the  friendly  savage  had  enticed  me  with  an  expectation  that 

the  Menomeny-sibi  or  Wild  Oats  r.  of  Beltrami.  The  other  main  affluent  rf 
Sandy  1.  comes  in  from  the  E.,  at  a  point  on  ihe  E.  shore  in  the  N.  E.  l^  of 
Sect.  9,  T.  49,  R.  23,  4th  M.,  and  is  ^enerall  •  known  as  Prairie  r.  Nicollet 
called  it  Little  Prairie  r. ;  I-ong,  Savanna  r.  Its  main  branch  from  the  N.  E.  is 
now  known  as  Savanna  r. ;  Nicollet  callea  this  West  Savannah  r.  to  distinguish  it 
from  that  branch  of  the  St.  I/Ouis  r.  which  he  designated  East  Savannali  r. ,  aiitl 
accentuate  the  relations  of  the  two.  For  it  must  be  known  that  these  rivers  of 
the  Mississippian  basin  connect  so  closely  with  certain  branches  of  tlic  St. 
Louis,  in  the  Lake  Superior  basin,  that  they  were  formerly  of  the  utmost  im- 
portance as  waterways  between  the  two  great  systems,  and  as  such  were  greatly 
used  by  the  ei.rly  voyageurs.  The  N.  W.  Co.  house  where  Pike  was  enter- 
tained stood  on  the  W.  shore  of  Sandy  1.,  next  to  the  Mississippi.  Pike  marks 
the  site  on  his  map,  and  gives  it  as  1%  m.  S.  of  the  discharge  cf  the  lake  into 
the  short  thoroughfare  by  which  this  reaches  the  Mississippi.  There  are  exist- 
ing remains  of  old  settlements  in  various  positions  further  south.  A  trail  from 
the  Indian  village  struck  the  Mississippi  r.  in  the  S.  E.  %  of  Sect.  4,  T.  49, 
R.  24.  When  David  Thompson  was  here  in  1798,  he  made  the  fort  to  be  iat. 
46"  46  39"  N.,  long.  93''  20'  W.  It  was  a  point  of  commercial  and  even  political 
importance  long  before  Pike's  day — it  was  such  at  the  pivotal  date,  1763,  in  the 
historj'  of  French-English  occupancy  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.  At  the  discharge 
of  the  lake  into  the  Mississippi  on  the  N.  side,  in  the  center  of  Sect.  25,  T.  50, 
R.  24,  is  a  small  sharp  point ;  this  was  the  site  of  a  post  of  the  Amer  /iir  Co. 
of  which  Schoolcraft  speaks  in  1832  ;  Palmburg  was  and  Libby  is  there  notv. 
It  would  be  a  pity  if  the  government  dam  now  constructing  on  the  outlet  siiould 
convert  this  beautiful  sheet  of  watti-  into  such  a  dismal  cesspool  as  Lake  W  inni- 
bigoshish  has  become  since  that  was  dammed  ;  but  lumberjacks  prev.iil  in 
northern  Minnesota  b/  a  large  majority,  and  logging-booms  have  nothing  in 
common  with  scenic  effects. 


THE   SANDY   LAKE   HOUSE. 


139 


I  would  tarry  all  night,  knowing  that  it  was  too  late  for  us 
to  make  the  lake  in  good  season.  But  upon  our  refusing  to 
stay,  he  put  us  in  the  right  road.  We  arrived  at  the  place 
where  the  track  left  the  Mississippi,  at  dusk,  when  we  trav- 
ersed about  two  leagues  of  a  wilderness,  without  any  very  great 
difficulty,  and  at  length  struck  the  shore  of  Lake  De  Sable, 
over  a  branch  of  which  our  course  lay.  The  snow  having 
covered  the  trail  made  by  the  Frenchmen  who  had  passed 
before  with  the  rackets,  I  was  fearful  of  losing  ourselves  on 
the  lake ;  the  con'-rquence  of  which  can  only  be  conceived 
by  those  who  have  been  exposed  on  a  lake,  or  naked  plain, 
n  dreary  night  of  January,  in  latitude  47°  and  the  thermom- 
eter below  zero.  Thinking  that  we  could  observe  the  bank 
of  the  other  shore,  we  kept  a  straight  course,  some'  time 
after  discovered  lights,  and  on  our  arrival  were  not  a  little 
surprised  to  find  a  large  stockade.  The  gate  being  open, 
we  entered  and  proceeded  to  the  quarters  of  Mr.  Grant, 
•here  we  were  treated  with  the  utmost  hospitality. 
Jan.  gth.  Marched  the  corporal  [back]  early,  in  order 
that  our  men  should  receive  assurances  of  our  safety  and 
success.  He  carried  with  him  a  small  keg  of  spirits,  a  pres- 
ent from  Mr.  Grant.  The  establishment  of  this  place  was 
formed  12  years  sinec  by  the  N.  W.  Company,  and  was  for- 
merly under  the  charge  of  a  Mr.  Charles  Brt  3ky  [Bousquai '"]. 
It  has  attained  at  present  such  regularity  as  to  permit 
the  superintendent  to  live  tolerably  comfortable.  They 
have  horses  procured  from  Red  river  of  the  Indians;  raise 
plenty  of  Irish  potatoes ;  catch  pike,  suckers,  pickerel,  and 

'''°  In  the  summer  of  1802,  the  Morrison  party,  consisting  of  William  Mor- 
rison, the  brothers  Michael  and  Antoine  Cheniers,  John  McBean,  one  Bouvin, 
and  one  Grignon,  came  into  the  country  in  the  service  of  the  X.  V.  Co.  (Rich- 
ardson &  Co.),  in  opposition  to  the  X.  W.  Co.  The  genuine  Morrison  letter 
elscwliere  cited,  in  connection  with  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippian  source, 
says:  "I  found  .  .  .  Sayers  at  I.eech  Lake,  Cotton  at  Fond  du  Lac,  and 
Bousquai  at  Sandy  Lake."  The  latter  is  no  doubt  Pike's  "Charles  Brusky." 
The  name  stands  Bousky  in  Tike's  text  of  1807,  p.  34.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Neill, 
Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  V.  1885,  p.  451,  speaks  of  the  visit  of  David  Thompson,  May 
6th,  17()8,  to  Sandy  Lake,  adding,  "  where  the  post  was  in  charge  of  Mr.  Bruske  " 
(liruske  in  the  index). 


I40 


THE   EXPEDITION   HOUSED  AT  SANDY   LAKE. 


white-fish  in  abundance.  They  have  also  beaver,  deer,  and 
moose  ;  but  the  provision  they  chiefly  depend  upon  is  wild 
oats,  of  which  they  purchase  great  quantities  from  the  sav- 
ages, giving  at  the  rate  of  about  $1.50  per  bushel.  But 
flour,  pork,  and  salt  are  almost  interdicted  to  persons  not 
principals  n  the  trade.   Flour  sells  at  50  cts.;  salt,  $1 ;  pork, 

80  cts.;    sugar,   50  cts.;    coffee, ,  and   tea,   $4.50  per 

pound.  The  sugar  is  obtained  from  the  Indians,  and  is 
made  from  the  maple  tree. 

Jan.  loth.  Mr.  Grant  accompanied  me  to  the  Mississippi 
to  mark  the  place  for  my  boats  to  leave  that  river.  This 
was  the  first  time  I  marched  on  rackets.  I  took  the  course 
of  [Sandy]  Lake  river,  from  its  mouth  to  the  lake.  Mr. 
Grant  fell  through  the  ice  with  his  rackets  on,  and  could  not 
have  got  out  without  assistance. 

Jan.  nth.     Remained  all  day  within  quarters. 

Sunday,  Jan.  12th.  Went  out  and  met  my  men  about  16 
miles.  A  tree  had  fallen  on  one  of  them  and  hurt  him  very 
much,  which  induced  me  to  dismiss  a  sled  and  put  the  lad- 
ing on  the  others. 

Jan.  ijth.  After  encountering  much  difficulty,  we  [the 
main  party]  arrived  at  the  establishment  of  the  N.  W.  Com- 
pany on  Lake  de  Sable,  a  little  before  night.  The  ice  being 
very  bad  on  [Sandy]  Lake  river,  owing  to  the  many  springs 
and  marshes,  one  sled  fell  through.  My  men  had  an  excel- 
lent room  furnished  them,  and  were  presented  with  potatoes 
and  fille  (cant  term  for  a  dram  of  spirits).  Mr.  Grant  had 
gone  to  an  Indian  lodge  to  receive  his  credits. 

Jan.  I4.th.  Crossed  the  lake  to  the  north  side,  that  I 
might  take  an  observation  ;  found  the  lat.  46°  9'  20"  N.  [it  is 
about  46"  46'].  Surveyed  that  part  of  the  lake.  Mr.  Grant 
returned  from  the  Indian  lodges.  They  brought  a  quantity 
of  furs  and  1 1  beaver  carcases. 

Jan.  iKth.  Mr.  Grant  and  myself  made  the  tour  of  the 
lake,  with  two  men  whom  I  had  for  attendants.  Found  it 
to  be  much  larger  than  could  be  im3p;ined  at  a  view.  My 
men  sawed  stocks  for  the  sleds,  which  I  found  it  necessary 


THE   EXPEDITION  LEAVES  SANDY   LAKE. 


141 


II' 


:r,  and 
is  wild 
le  sav- 
,.  But 
ins  not 
;  pork, 
50  per 
,  and  is 

jsissippi 
:.  This 
;  course 
ce.  Mr. 
ould  not 


about  16 
him  very 
t  the  lad- 

we  [the 
W.  Corn- 
ice being 
springs 
an  exccl- 
potatoes 
rant  had 

|e,  that  I 

)"N.[itis 
;r.  Grant 
quantity 

lur  of  the 
JFound  it 
liew.  My 
Inecessary 


to  construct  after  the  manner  of  the  country.  On  our 
march  met  an  Indian  coming  into  the  fort ;  his  countenance 
expressed  no  little  astonishment  when  told  who  I  was  and 
whence  I  came ;  for  the  people  in  this  country  themselves 
acknowledge  that  the  savages  hold  the  Americans  in  greater 
veneration  than  any  other  white  people.  They  say  of  us, 
when  alluding  to  warlike  achievements,  that  we  "  are  neither 
Frenchmen  nor  Englishmen,  but  white  Indians." 

Jan.  i6th.  Laid  down  Lake  De  Sable,  etc.  A  young 
Indian  whom  I  had  engaged  to  go  as  a  guide  to  Lake  Sang 
Sue  [Leech  Lake],  arrived  from  the  woods. 

Jan.  ijth.  Employed  in  making  sleds,  or  traineaux  de 
glace,  after  the  manner  of  the  country.  Those  sleds  are 
made  of  a  single  plank  turned  up  at  one  end  like  a  fiddle- 
head,  and  the  baggage  is  lashed  on  in  bags  and  sacks.  Two 
other  Indians  arrived  from  the  woods.  Engaged  in  writing. 
Jan.  i8th.  Busy  in  preparing  my  baggage  for  my  de- 
parture for  Leech  Lake,  reading,  etc. 

S2inday,  Jan.  igth.  Employed  as  yesterday.  Two  men 
of  the  N.  W.  Company  arrived  from  Fond  du  Lac  Superior 
with  letters,  one  of  which  was  from  their  establishment  in 
Athapuscow  [Athapasca],  and  had  been  since  last  May  on 
the  route.  While  at  this  post  I  ate  roasted  beavers,  dressed 
in  every  respect  as  a  pig  is  usually  dressed  with  us ;  it  was 
excellent.  I  could  not  discern  the  least  taste  of  Des  Bois 
[?.  c,  of  the  wood  on  which  beavers  feed].  I  also  ate  boiled 
moose's  head :  when  well  boiled,  I  consider  it  equal  to  the 
tail  of  the  beaver ;  in  taste  and  substance  they  are  much 
alike. 

Jan.  20th.  The  men  with  the  sleds  took  their  departure 
about  two  o'clock.  Shortly  after  I  followed  them.  We  en- 
camped at  the  portage  between  the  Mississippi  and  Leech 
Like  \i.  c.  Willow "]  river.     Snow  fell  in  the  night. 

"See  note  ",  p.  137,  for  Willow  r.  Pike  calls  it  "Leech  Lake  river  "  in  this 
place,  not  because  that  was  then  or  ever  has  been  its  name,  but  because  it  was 
on  the  route  he  was  going  to  take  from  Sandy  1.  to  I,eech  1.  He  flatters  our 
intelligence  further  by  giving  us  a  perfectly  blind  snow-shoe  trail,  for  the  most 


'i 


■ 


142       BY  WILLOW   RIVER,  EN  ROUTE  TO   LEECH   LAKE. 

Jan.  2ist.  Snowed  in  the  morning,  but  we  crossed  [Wil- 
low portage]  about  nine  o'clock.  I  had  gone  on  a  few 
points  when  I  was  overtaken  by  Mr.  Grant,  who  informed 
me  that  the  sleds  could  not  get  along,  in  consequence  of 
water  being  on  the  ice  [of  Willow  river] ;  he  sent  his  men 
forward.  We  returned  and  met  the  sleds,  which  had 
scarcely  advanced  one  mile.  We  unloaded  them  and  sent 
eight  men  back  to  the  post  [on  Sandy  lake]  with  whatever 
might  be  denominated  extra  articles  ;  but  in  the  hurry  sent 
my  salt  and  ink.  Mr.  Grant  encamped  with  me  and  marched 
early  in  the  morning  [of  the  22d]. 

Jan.  22d.  Made  a  pretty  good  day's  journey.  My  Indian 
came  up  about  noon.     Distance  20  miles. 

part  'cross  lots,  witliout  a  single  comi)ass-point,  with  wild  mileage  or  none, 
and  not  even  a  geographical  hint,  from  the  20th  to  the  26th.  He  takes  it  for 
granted  that  we  know  all  about  the  swamps  of  N.  Minnesota  in  midwinter. 
Luckily,  we  are  ncii  without  the  means  of  bringing  him  to  book.  He  continues 
on  the  Willow  River  route  tmvard  Leech  1  with  his  whole  party  till  the  morn- 
ing of  the  26th,  wIk-'ii  he  loaves  the  party  to  follow  up  that  route,  and  goes  him- 
self with  Boley  and  the  Indian  10  Mr.  Grant's  house  "  on  the  Mississippi."  The 
Mississippi  is  p  pretty  long  river,  but  it  happens  that  we  can  discover  where  Mr. 
Grant's  was  in  1805  :  see  Pike's  map,  place  marked  "  N.  W.  C".  g",  on  the 
right  bank  (W.  side)  of  the  river,  a  little  below  the  place  marked  "  Ripple  ' 
This  was  directly  opposite  the  present  town  of  Grand  Rapids,  Itasca  Co.,  3  ni. 
below  Pokegama  Falls.  The  air-line  distance  from  the  outlet  of  .Sandy  1. 
to  Grand  Rapids  is  supposed  to  be  32^  m.;  by  the  way  Pike  wen  tperhaps 
40-45  m.  The  course  is  about  N.  N.  W.  This  cuts  off  a  considerable  segment 
from  the  winding  course  of  the  Mississippi,  which  makes  a  large  elbow  east- 
ward. Pike  subtends  this  bend  ;  having  crossed  the  Mississippi  neai'  Sandy  1.. 
and  thus  continued  across  what  he  calls  tlie  "portage"  to  Willow  r.,  lie 
goes  up  this,  not  far  froin  parallel  with  the  Mississippi,  till  Willow  r.  bears 
more  to  the  left  ;  wucn  he  leaves  it  to  continue  his  course  to  Mr.  Grant's  house, 
having  the  Mississippi  on  his  right,  but  at  several  (say  5  to  10)  mik-s'  distance, 
representing  the  amount  of  cut-oiT  he  makes.  On  the  26th,  with  Boley  and  an 
Indian,  he  forges  ahead  of  his  party,  who  do  not  get  up  to  Grant's  house  till 
tiie  evening  of  the  28th,  though  he  is  there  on  the  night  of  the  26tl)  with  the 
Indian,  and  Boley  comes  up  on  the  morning  of  the  27th.  That  section  of  the 
Mississippi  which  Pike  thus  avoids  may  be  passed  over  briefly,  .is  it  offers  litde 
of  interest.  There  are  some  rapids  above  Sandy  1.  Three  of  these  arc  duly 
charted  by  Nicollet,  being  his  lower,  middle,  and  upjjer  "  Sma.;! "  rapids, 
respectively  now  known  as  '  )x-portagc.  Crooked,  and  Pine  rapids.  The  firs'  ' 
these  are  in  Sect.  2,  T.  50,  R.  24,  4th   M.;  the  others  m  the  next  lownsir 


1  [Wil- 
a  few 
formed 
iiicc  of 
lis  men 
ch   had 
nd  sent 
whatever 
rry  sent 
Tiarched 

V  Indian 


re  or  none, 
takes  it  for 
miclwmlLT. 
le  continues 
il  the  morn- 
nd  goeshim- 

isippi-"    ^'^^ 
er  where  Mr. 
.  D  ",  on  the 
d  "  Ripple." 
icaCo.,  3i~'- 
of  Sandy   1. 
'en    tperhaps 
[able  segment 
elbow  east- 
car  Sandy  1.. 
illow   r.,   he 
lllow  r.  bears 
.rant's  house, 
lies'  distance, 
loley  anil  an 
It's  liouse  till 
[6th  with  the 
Lection  of  the 
It  offers  little 
\ese  arc  dul; 
ll "    rapids. 
The  first  of 
ext  townshu 


COURSE   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI   AVOIDED. 


143 


/an.  2jd.  Marched  about  1 8  miles.  Forgot  my  ther- 
mometer, having  hung  it  on  a  tree ;  sent  Boley  back  five 
miles  for  it.  My  young  Indian  and  myself  killed  eight 
partridges;  took  him  to  live  with  me. 

Jan.  2^th.  At  our  encampment  this  night  Mr.  Grant  had 
encamped  on  the  night  of  the  same  day  he  left  me  ;  it  was 
three  days'  march  for  us.  In  the  evening  the  father  of  his 
girl  came  to  my  camp  and  sta)'^ed  all  night ;  he  appeared 
very  friendly  and  was  very  communicative ;  but  having  no 
interpreter,  we  made  but  little  progress  in  conversation.  It 
was  late  before  the  men  came  up. 

Jan.  2^ih.  Traveled  almost  all  day  through  the  lands, 
and  found  them  much  better  than  usual.     Boley  lost  the 

above,  of  the  same  range.  By  far  the  tnost  important  tributary  of  the  Missis- 
sipi'i  ill  this  portion  of  its  course  is  Swan  r.,  which  falls  in  from  the  E.  in  Sect, 
g,  T.  52,  R.  24,  4th  M.,  \}i  tn.  (direct)  south  of  the  boundary  line  between 
Aitkin  and  Itasca  cos.,  which  here  runs  on  the  line  between  T.  52  and  T. 
53  The  Duluth  and  Winnipeg  R.  R.  from  Duhuh  meanders  the  St.  Louis  r. 
as  far  as  Floodwood,  continues  N.  W,  to  Wawana,  along  some  tributaries  of 
Floodwood  r.,  to  the  divide  between  I.aurentian  and  Mississippian  waters  in  the 
vicinity  of  Swan  r.  The  latter  is  marked  "  Wild  Swan  R."  on  the  U.  S.  Engi- 
neers' cliart — which  is  well  enough,  as  all  the  swans  in  that  country  are  wild, 
though  this  name  apparently  arose  from  misunderstanding  the  legend  "  W'.  Swan 
R."  on  Nicollet's  map.  This  stands  for  West — not  Wild — Swan  r. ,  and  Nicol- 
let meant  by  it  to  contrast  this  stream  with  that  tributary  of  the  St.  Louis  which 
he  called  East  Swan  r.  At  a  distince  of  6^  air-jine  miles,  but  fully  14  m. 
by  the  meanders  of  the  Mississippi,  above  the  mouth  of  Swan  r.,  a  .';mall  stream 
comes  in  from  the  W.,  nearly  if  not  exactly  on  the  common  corner  of  Sects.  21, 
22,  27  and  28  of  T.  53,  R.  24,  4th  M.  This  is  Split  Hand  r. — the  Cut  Hand 
cr.  of  Nicollet  and  of  Owen,  draining  from  a  lake  of  the  same  incisive  name, 
from  Willibob  1.,  and  some  otheis,  all  of  which  lie  southeastward  of  the 
large  lake  Pokegama.  This  is  the  stream  called  by  Beltrami  Singonki-sibi  or 
Marten  r.  Above  Split  Hand  r.  are  several  streams  on  either  hand.  The  one 
which  I  take  to  be  Nicollet's  Blueberry  cr.  falls  in  from  the  E.  in  the  S.  W.  ^ 
of  Sect.  21,  T.  54,  R.  24,  4th  M. ,  3/  of  a  mile  due  S.  of  a  considerable  hill  in 
tlie  next  section  above,  and  3  m.  due  V..  of  Hale  1. — that  little  lake  which  is  at 
the  tip  i';^' the  longest  eastward  finger  of  Lake  I'okegama.  Ascending  the  Mis- 
sissippi still,  we  next  come  to  Trout  r.  or  cr.,  from  the  E.,  whose  mouth  falls  in 
the  S.  W.  }^  of  Sect.  5  of  the  township  just  said.  This  has  held  its  present 
name  since  the  days  of  Schoolcraft  and  Allen,  though  Beltrami  called  it 
Xamago-sibi.  Here  we  are  already  approaching  (Jrand  Rapids,  where  we  shall 
find  Pike  :    for  the  many  important  features  of  that  \icinity  see  next  note. 


I 
lii 

ii 


144 


GRANT  S  HOUSE— GRAND   RAPIDS. 


Sioux  pipestem  which  I  carried  along  for  the  purpose  of 
making  peace  with  the  Chipeways ;  I  sent  him  back  for  it ; 
he  did  not  return  until  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  It  was  very 
warm  ;  thawing  all  day.     Distance  44  points. 

Sunday,  Jan.  26th.  I  left  my  party  in  order  to  proceed 
to  a  house  or  lodge  of  Mr.  Grant's  on  the  Mississippi  [oppo- 
site Grand  Rapids],  where  he  was  to  tarry  until  I  overtook 
him.  Took  with  me  my  Indian,  Boley,  and  some  trifling 
provision;  the  Indian  and  myself  marched  so  fast  that  we 
left  Boley  on  the  route  about  eight  miles  from  the  lodge. 
Met  Mr.  Grant's  men  on  their  return  to  Lake  De  Sable, 
they  having  evacuated  the  house  this  morning,  and  Mr. 
Grant  having  marched  [thence]  for  Leech  Lake.  The 
Indian  and  I  arrived  before  sundown  [at  Grant's  house"]. 
Passed  the  night  very  uncomfortably,  having  nothing  to  eat, 
not  much  wood,  nor  any  blankets.  The  Indian  slept  sound. 
I  cursed  his  insensibility,  being  obliged  to  content  myself 
over  a  few  coals  all  night.  Boley  did  not  arrive.  In  the 
night  the  Indian  mentioned  something  about  his  son,  etc. 

Monday,  Jan.  zyth.  My  Indian  rose  early,  mended  his 
mockinsons,  then  expressed  by  signs  something  about  his  son 

"  I  do  not  know  that  the  exact  site  of  Grant's  N.  \V.  Co.  House  has  been 
recovered  of  late  years  ;  but  there  is  no  question  of  its  location  nearly  or  directly 
opposite  the  town  of  Grand  Rapids,  somewhere  in  the  S.  ^  of  Sect.  21,  T.  55, 
R.  25,  4th  M.  It  doubtless  stood  on  the  first  rising  ground  from  the  river — 
most  probably,  as  I  think,  on  the  knoll  that  overlooks  that  curious  expansion  of 
the  Mississippi  into  a  pair  of  ponds  or  one  small  lake  of  hour-glass  shapu,  across 
the  constricted  part  of  which  the  river  flows.  Grand  Rapids  is  the  seat  of 
Itasca  Co. ,  and  has  become  quite  a  town  of  late  years,  at  least  in  comparison 
with  any  others  for  many  miles  thereabouts.  It  stands  across  the  mouth  of  a 
small  creek,  whose  name,  if  it  have  one,  I  could  not  learn,  even  when  I  was  on 
the  spot.  It  discharges  from  several  small  lakes.  The  rapids  from  which  the 
town  takes  its  name  are  not  particularly  "grand."  Pike  calls  them  a  "  ripple." 
"  Kakabikons  (or  simply  Kabikons)  rapids,  as  I  have  laid  them  down  on  the  map, 
have  a  fall  of  9  feet  in  a  distance  of  80  yards,"  Nicollet,  Rep.  1843,  p.  63.  The 
volatile  Beltrami  calls  them  "  Sassicy-Woenne,  or  Thundering  Rapids,"  IT.  p.  455- 
The  Engineer  chart  marks  the  rapids  1247  below  and  1252  above — a  difference 
of  only  5  feet.  At  the  direct  distance  of  2^  m.  below  (E.  S.  E.  of)  the  town  is  a 
village  called  La  Prairie,  of  no  consequence  in  itself,  but  occupying  a  notable  place. 
This  is  the  mouth  of  a  comparatively  large  river,  charted  by  Pike  as  "  Meadow 


THE   MAIN   PARTY  REACHES  GRANTS  HOUSE. 


145 


ose  of 
for  it ; 
xs  very 

troceed 
[oppo- 
/ertook 
trifling 
that  we  • 
!  lodge. 
:  Sable, 
ind  Mr. 
:.     The 

lOUSC  J. 
y  to  eat, 
it  sound. 
[  myself 
In  the 
m,  etc. 
nded  his 
it  his  son 


and  the  Frenchman  we  met  yesterday.  Conceiving  that  he 
wished  to  send  some  message  to  his  family,  I  suffered  him  to 
depart.  After  his  departure  I  felt  the  curse  of  solitude, 
although  he  truly  was  no  company.  Boley  arrived  about  ten 
o'clock.  He  said  that  he  had  followed  us  until  some  time  in 
the  night ;  when,  believing  that  he  could  not  overtake  us,  he 
stopped  and  made  a  fire ;  but  having  no  ax  to  cut  wood,  he 
was  near  freezing.  He  met  the  Indians,  who  made  him  signs 
to  go  on.  I  spent  the  day  in  putting  my  gun  in  order, 
mending  my  mockinsons,  etc.  Provided  plenty  of  wood ; 
still  found  it  cold,  with  but  one  blanket. 

I  can  only  account  for  the  gentlemen  of  the  N.  W.  Com- 
pany contenting  themselves  in  this  wilderness  for  10,  15, 
and  some  of  them  for  20  years,  by  the  attachment  they  con- 
tract for  the  Indian  women.  It  appears  to  me  that  the 
wealth  of  nations  would  not  induce  me  to  remain  secluded 
from  the  society  of  civilized  mankind,  surrounded  by  a 
savage  and  unproductive  wilderness,  without  books  or  other 
sources  of  intellectual  enjoyment,  or  being  blessed  with  the 
cultivated  and  feeling  mind  of  a  civilized  fair  [one]. 

Tuesday,  /aft.  28th.  [My  party  joined  Boley  and  myself 
at  Grant's    house   to-day.     Wednesday,  Jan.  zgth."^     Took 

R.  navigable  for  Bark  Canoes  100  M."  Long  also  maps  it  as  Meadow  r. ;  by 
Beltrami  it  is  called  Muslikotensoi-sibi  or  Prairie  r.,  and  this  last  is  its  present 
designation  (duplicating  the  name  of  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Sandy  1.:  see 
note  ■",  p.  138).  It  is  the  translation  of  the  Indian  vord  which  Nicollet  in  this 
connection  renders  Mashkudens,  and  which  occurs  in  many  forms,  as  Mascou- 
ten,  Muscatine,  etc.  About  2  m.  S.  W.  of  Grand  Rapids  is  Horseshoe  1.,  one  of 
the  many  small  bodies  of  water  which  hover  like  satellites  about  Lake  Pokeg- 
ania:  see  next  note.  The  D.  and  W.  R.  R.  keeps  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  from  La  Prairie  through  Grand  Rapids  to  Cohasset  and  Deer  River, 
its  present  terminus. 

"Jan.  2gth  and  30th  are  not  entered  in  the  diarj',  and  there  is  intrinsic  evi- 
dence of  confusion  in  Pike's  notes.  Observe  the  statement  made  under  "  Feb. 
1st"  that  Pike  reached  Leech  1.  at  2.30  p.  m.,  crossed  it  to  the  house  and 
arrived  there  about  3  p.  m. — 12  m.  in  about  half  an  hour,  an  obvious  impossi- 
bility. Observe  also  that  Boley  was  his  only  soldier  according  to  Jan.  26th  and 
27th  ;  hut  that  Miller  was  the  man  with  him  on  the  28th  and  later  days.  What 
liecime  of  Boley  and  where  did  Miller  come  from  ?  We  have  not  a  word  about 
the  main  party  ;   in  fact  we  are  never  told  by  what  route  they  reached  Leech  1. — 


146 


PIKE   AND   MILLER   FORGE  AHEAD. 


Miller  and  proceeded  ahead  of  my  party ;  reached  Paka- 
gama  falls  about  one  o'clock ;  proceeded  to  three  deserted 
Chipeway  lodges ;  found  a  fine  parcel  of  firewood  split ; 
cut  down  three  sap  pines  and  wove  the  branches  into  one 
of  the  lodges  to  protect  ourselves  from  the  storm ;  had 
a  tolerable  night.  Thursday,  Jan.  joth.  Miller  and  myself] 
left  our  encampment  at  a  good  hour;  unable  to  find  any 
trail,  passed  through  one  of  the  most  dismal  cypress  swamps 
I  ever  saw,  and  struck  the  Mississippi  at  a  small  lake.  Ob- 
served Mr.  Grant's  tracks  going  through  it ;  found  his  mark 
of  a  cut-off,  agreed  on  between  us;  took  it,  and  proceeded 
very  well  until  we  came  to  a  small  lake  where  the  trail  was 
entirely  hid.  But  after  some  search  on  the  other  side,  found 
it ;  when  we  passed  through  a  dismal  swamp,  on  the  other 
side  of  which  we  found  a  large  lake  at  which  I  was  entirely 
at  a  loss ;  no  trail  was  to  be  seen.     Struck  a  [White  Oak  "] 


simply  that  they  got  there  five  days  after  Pike,  at  4  p.  m.,  Feb.  6th:  see  that 
date.  Fortunately  the  early  text  of  1807,  pp.  37-40,  clears  the  whole  matter 
up,  as  follows  :  "  After  the  whole  party  had  arrived  at  this  lodge  [Grant's  house, 
evening  oi  Jan.  sSlfi],  Mr.  Pike  determined  to  proceed  on  to  the  head  of  ilie 
river  [Leech  1.],  accompanied  hy  one  ot  his  young  men,  named  Miller.  He 
left  the  camp  on  the  morning  of  the  sgtk,  when  it  was  snowing  very  fast,"  etc., 
reached  Pokcgama  falls  at  i  p.  m.;  soon  after  found  three  deserted  Chippewa 
lodges,  and  "  a  fine  parcel  of  split  wood  ";  cut  down  three  balsam-firs  to  make 
a  shelter,  and  camped.  Jan.  jotk,  passed  through  the  "dismal  cypress 
swamp,"  found  Mr.  Grant's  cut-off  and  reached  the  inhospitable  Chippew.is, 
who  were  living  at  or  near  White  Oak  pt.  (All  this  is  given  on  the  2Slh  in 
the  above  text ;  this  is  where  the  break  was  made,  though  there  is  no  break  in 
the  week-days,  for  the  entry  "  Tuesday,  Jan.  28th,"  covers  that  day,  Wednesday 
29th,  and  Thursday  30th,  as  shown  by  what  I  have  bracketed  in  the  text.)  Jan. 
j/st,  Pike  and  Miller  continued  on  from  White  Oak  pt.  and  went  past  the 
mouth  of  the  Leech  Lake  fork  to  some  point  on  that  fork,  described  above  as 
"one  mile  below  [t.  e.  beyond]  the  traverse  of  the  meadow,"  in  the  1807  text 
as  "a  mile  above  the  meadow";  camped  there.  Feb.  ist,  reached  Leech  1. 
"  a  little  aftermidday,"  p.  39  of  the  1807  text,  agreeing  with  2.30  p.  m.  of  aliove 
text  well  enough  ;  across  the  lake  it  was  "  12 miles"  to  the  establishment  of  the 
North  West  Company,  at  ivhich  t  ley  arrived  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening. 
"  The  gates  were  locked,"  etc.,  p.  40. 

•'  Pike  lias  now  (Jan.  29th  and  30th)  gone  up  the  Mississippi  from  Grand 
Rapids  to  White  Oak  pt. — not  following  the  river  exactly,  but  taking  the 
cut-off  Mr.  Grant  marked  for  him.     The  air-line  distance  is  about  13  m.     Sup- 


POKEGAMA   FALLS— WHITE   OAK   POINT. 


147 


Paka- 
;sertcd 

split ; 
ito  one 
Ti;  had 
myself  1 
nd  any 
swamps 
;c.     Ob- 
lis  mark 
ocecdcd 
trail  was 
le,  found 
he  other 

entirely 
;eOak"] 

;h;  sec  that 
hole  matter 
rant's  house, 
head  of  ilie 
Miller.     He 
fast,"  etc., 
id  Chippewa 
firs  to  make 
mal   cypress 
Chippeuas, 
the  2Sih  in 
no  break  in 
Wednesday 
text.)  /'"'• 
[ent  past  the 
led  above  as 
Ihe  1807  text 
;ed  Leech  1. 
m.  of  above 
hment  of  the 
the  evening. 

[from  Grand 

taking  the 

113  m.     ^np- 


point  about  three  miles,  where  we  found  a  Chipeway  lodge 
of  one  man,  his  wife,  five  children,  and  one  old  woman. 
They  received  us  with  every  mark  that  distinguished  their 

|)osinu  him  to  have  taken  something  like  the  usual  trail,  he  went  as  follows  : 
At  3  m.  direct  above  Grand  Rapids,  4  m.  by  the  river,  he  passed  I'okegama 
falls  at  I  p.  m.,  Jan.  29th.  This  is  a  place  where  the  Mississijipi  drops  about 
15  feet  jver  a  granular  quartz  ridge  :  Pike  maps  it  "  Falls  of  Pakajjania  20  F'- 
Portage 200  yards."  It  is  naturally  one  of  the  best  known  points  on  the  river  in 
this  vicinity.  It  is  visible  in  part  from  the  car  window  as  you  go  by  on  the  rail- 
road, but  the  dam  which  has  been  built  just  above  is  a  more  conspicuous  object 
from  that  point  of  view.  Nicollet  calls  the  cataract  Kabikons  or  Little  falls, 
and  more  fully  Kakabikons  or  Little-severed  Rock  falls.  At  3).^  m.  by  the 
river,  above  these  falls,  is  the  discharge  of  Lake  I'okegama  itself.  This  is 
by  far  the  largest  body  of  water  in  tiie  vicinity,  having  an  extreme  length  of 
:3  m.;  but  its  form  is  so  irregular,  something  like  a  hand  with  spread-out  fingers, 
that  its  actual  shore-line  is  very  much  greater  ;  and  a  number  of  smaller  sheets 
of  water  are  dotted  about  it  on  all  sides.  Two  of  the  largest  of  these  are  Sisi- 
bakwet  and  Rice  lakes.  Nicollet  renders  Pakegomag,  "  a  name  applied  by  the 
Chippeways  to  all  sheets  of  water  in  the  vicinity  of  a  river,"  Rep.  1843,  p.  63. 
Sdioolcraft  says  Peckagama,  Allen  Pecagama,  Owen  Pokegoma  ;  Packegamau, 
and  1  suppose  a  dozen  more  forms  of  the  word,  are  found  ;  Beltrami  has  Pake- 
gamanaguen  or  Hook  1. ;  the  form  I  use  seems  to  be  most  frequent  now.  The 
accent  is  on  the  antepenult — Pokeg'-ama.  A  mile  or  so  below  the  mouth  of 
tiiiii  lake  Bass  brook  falls  in  from  the  north,  discharging  from  Bass  and  other 
lakes ;  the  town  of  Cohasset  is  at  its  mouth.  The  trail  now  crosses,  or  lately 
did  cross,  the  Mississippi  from  S.  E,  to  N.  VV.  in  this  vicinity.  It  continues 
westward,  past  two  overflows  of  the  river  known  as  Backwater  and  Cut-ofI  lakes, 
respectively,  on  one  side  and  the  other  of  the  Mississippi,  continues  to  a  small 
lake  which  I  suppose  to  be  one  of  those  so  said  by  Pike  above,  and  then  strikes 
for  the  larger  lake  he  speaks  of.  This  traverse  leaves  the  Mississippi  several 
miles  to  the  left  as  you  go  west  ;  for  the  river  makes  an  extensive  sharp  bend  S., 
and  there  receives  Vermilion  r.  (Wanomon  r.  on  Nicollet's  map)  from  the  S. ,  at 
tlie  bight  of  this  bend.  Exactly  2%  m.  below  the  mouth  of  V^ermilion  r.  is  the 
discharge  of  Lake  Kabukasagetewa  (as  the  name  is  rendered  on  the  Warner  and 
Koote  map).  The  "  large  lake  "  of  the  above  text  is  evidently  that  known  to  the 
voyageurs  as  Lac  aux  Chenes,  whence  our  Oak  1.,  also  White  Oak  1.;  from  the 
head  of  which  to  Pointe  aux  Chenes,  now  Oak  pt.  or  White  Oak  pt.  (Red-oak 
Point,  Nic,  p.  63),  is  exactly  2^  m.  This  is  clearly  the  place  where  the  good 
Samaritan  Chippewa  and  his  amiable  family  resided,  close  by  the  mouth  of 
Deer  r.,  which  Pike  charts  by  this  name,  and  which  is  still  so  called.  This  falls 
in  from  the  N.  through  another  White  Oak  1.,  also  called  Deer,  also  Stephen's. 
Notice  that  this  last  (Deer  r.)  is  the  stream  Beltrami  erroneously  calls  Onomo- 
nikana-sibi  or  Vermilion  r.,  as  he  fetches  it  in  on  the  N,,  both  in  text  and  on  his 
map. 
Addendum  to  the  above.     I  found  when  at  Deer  River  that  the  nomenclature  of 


■ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


k 


// 


// 


>/2^ 


/^ 


i/.. 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


Ui  |Z8     1 2.5 

«-  liU    IIIII2.2 


«    I 


2.0 


U.  11.6 


Hiotographic 
_,Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MStO 

(716)  S73-4S03 


1 


•1? 


l\ 


iV 


N> 


[v 


o^ 


<^ 


0 


^c 


1^ 


TSB?W 


148 


SYNONYMY  OF  THE  WHITE  OAK  LAKES. 


3 


barbarity,  such  as  setting  their  dogs  on  ours,  trying  to  thrust 
their  hands  into  our  pockets,  etc.  But  we  convinced  them 
that  we  were  not  afraid,  and  let  them  know  we  were  Che- 
wockomen**  (Americans),  when  they  used  us  more  civilly. 

the  natives  does  not  agree  with  that  on  our  best  maps  regarding  the  lake  to  be  called 
"  White  Oak."  The  first  White  Oak  1.  of  the  above  note,  and  of  all  our  modem 
maps — the  one  which  Pike  comes  to  before  he  reaches  White  Oak  pt. — is  a 
small  one  i)iXH  "*••  lying  chiefly  in  Sects.  3  and  10  of  T.  5$,  R.  37, 4th  M., 
and  through  it  goes  one  but  not  the  other  of  the  two  courses  into  which  the  Miss> 
issippi  is  here  widely  divided.  The  people  never  call  this  White  Oak  1.,  but 
apply  that  name  to  the  much  larger  one  through  which  Deer  r.  discharges  above 
White  Oak  pt. — the  Deer  1.  of  Nicollet,  Stephen's  lake  of  our  maps.  This  is  a 
pear-shaped  body  of  water  a^  m.  in  extreme  length,  with  a  greatest  breadth  of 
over  a  mile  at  its  lower  end.  It  lies  mainly  in  Sects,  i,  2,  and  I3  of  T.  144, 
R.  25,  5th  M.,  but  with  the  butt  end  overrunning  into  T.  56,  R.  27,  4th  M., 
and  both  the  inlet  and  the  outlet  of  Deer  r.  being  in  the  latter  township.  It  is 
thus  entirely  off  Pike's  trail,  N.  and  W.  of  White  Oak  pt.  This  lake  discharges 
into  a  loop  of  the  Mississippi  by  a  short  thoroughfare  of  j^  a  mile,  ending  close 
above  White  Oak  pt.,  in  the  N.  E.  j<  of  Sect.  13,  T.  144,  R.  25,  5th  M.  The 
miserable  hamlet  of  Deer  River— as  vile  a  place  as  it  was  ever  my  bad  luck  to 
discover — lies  W.  of  Deer  r.,  and  a  mile  or  more  N.  of  White  Oak  1.  Here 
ig  *he  terminus  of  the  D.  and  W.  R.  R.,  a  siding  of  which  runs  down  to  the  lake 
at  a  point  ^  a  mile  W.  of  the  inlet  of  Deer  r.  .where  a  pier  is  built.  On  cross- 
ing the  lake  to  get  into  and  go  up  the  Mississippi  the  usual  route  is  through  the 
outlet  and  thence  down  the  Mississippi  for  nearly  a  mile,  to  get  into  a  long, 
straight  cut-off  which  avoids  some  great  bends.  But  there  is  a  shorter  way  still, 
if  one  can  find  it,  as  I  did  on  coming  down — an  obscure  point  directly  opposite 
the  pier,  in  the  reeds,  where  a  canoe  can  be  pushed  through  into  the  nearest 
bend,  and  so  save  more  than  a  mile.  A  fact  which  may  have  originated  or  per- 
petuated the  above  noted  confusion  of  names  is  that,  above  this  large  White  Oak 
or  Stephen's  1.  there  is  a  point  of  hard-wood  called  Little  White  Oak  pt.,  occu- 
pying a  position  with  reference  to  the  larger  lake  like  that  which  the  original 
Pointe  aux  Chenes  or  Oak  pt.  bears  to  the  lesser  lake.  A  glance  at  the  Engi- 
neer chart,  or  at  such  a  good  map  as  Jewett's,  on  the  scale  of  3  m.  to  the 
inch,  will  give  a  clearer  idea  of  these  points  than  the  most  elaborate  description 
is  likely  to  convey. 

**  "  Chewockomen,"  as  well  as  the  "  Chewockmen  "  of  the  1807  ed.,  is  far 
from  any  recognized  or  acceptable  spelling  of  the  Chippewa  word,  one  fairly 
good  form  of  which  is  Kitchimokomen.  Schoolcraft  has  Chimoquemon.  It 
means  Big  Knives  or  Long  Knives,  and  is  commonly  so  translated,  the  reference 
being  either  to  the  swords  of  the  officers  or  the  bayonets  of  the  soldiers,  which 
have  often  struck  Indians  forcibly,  both  in  a  literal  and  in  a  figurative  sense. 
Kitchimokomen  corresponds  to  the  Sioux  name  Isantanka,  cf  the  same  meaning 
and  application. 


>  thrust 
d  them 
re  Che- 
villy. 

:o  be  called 
mr  modem 
i  pt. — is  a 
17, 4th  M., 
h  the  Miss- 
Oak  1.,  but 
arges  above 
.    This  is  a 
t  breadth  of 
of  T.  144. 
a?,  4tl»  ^^•> 
nship.    It  is 
le  discharges 
ending  close 
jthM.    The 
f  bad  luck  to 
)ak  1.    Here 
irn  to  the  lake 
t.    On  cross- 
s  through  the 
into  a  long, 
irter  way  still, 
ictly  opposite 
;o  the  nearest 
rinated  or  per- 
\ge  White  Oak 
Jak  pt.,  occu- 
:h  the  original 
at  the  Engi- 
|(  3  m.  to  the 
ite  description 

07  ed..  is  far 
trd,  one  fairly 
lioquemon.  It 
\,  the  reference 
oldiers,  which 
urative  sense. 
I  same  meaning 


MAIN  FORKS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 

After  we  had  arranged  a  camp  as  well  as  possible,  I  went 
into  the  lodge ;  they  presented  me  with  a  plate  of  dried 
meat.  I  ordered  Miller  to  bring  about  two  gills  of 
liquor,  which  made  us  all  good  friends.  The  old  squaw 
gave  me  more  meat,  and  offered  me  tobacco,  which,  not 
using,  I  did  not  take.  I  gave  her  an  order  upon  my  cor- 
poral for  one  knife  and  half  a  carrot  of  tobacco.  Heaven 
clothes  the  lilies  and  feeds  the  ravens,  and  the  same  almighty 
Providence  protects  and  preserves  these  creatures.  After  I 
had  gone  out  to  my  fire,  the  old  man  came  out  and  proposed 
to  trade  beaver-skins  for  whisky ;  meeting  with  a  refusal,  he 
left  me ;  when  presently  the  old  woman  came  out  with  a 
beaver-skin ;  she  also  being  refused,  he  returned  to  the 
charge  with  a  quantity  of  dried  meat,  which,  or  any  other, 
I  should  have  been  glad  to  have  had.  I  gave  him  a  per- 
emptory refusal;  then  all  further  application  ceased.  It 
really  appeared  that  with  one  quart  of  whisky  I  might  have 
bought  all  they  possessed.  Night  remarkably  cold ;  was 
obliged  to  sit  up  nearly  the  whole  of  it.  Suffered  much 
with  cold  and  from  want  of  sleep. 

Friday,  Jan.  3 1  St.  Took  my  clothes  into  the  Indian's  lodge 
to  dress,  and  was  received  very  coolly ;  but  by  giving  him  a 
dram  unasked,  and  his  wife  a  little  salt,  I  received  from 
them  directions  for  my  route.  Passed  the  lake  or  morass, 
and  opened  on  meadows  through  which  the  Mississippi 
winds  its  course  of  nearly  1 5  miles  long.  Took  a  straight 
course  through  them  to  the  head,  when  I  found  we  had 
missed  the  river;  made  a  turn  of  about  two  miles  and 
regained  it.  Passed  a  fork  which  I  supposed  to  be  [that 
coming  from]  Lake  Winipie  [or  Winipeque,  1.  e.y  the 
maipi  Mississippi  river  coming  from  Lake  Winnibigoshish], 
making  the  course  N.  W.  The  branch  we  took  was  Leech 
Lake  branch,  course  S.  W.  and  W.  Passed  a  very  large 
meadow  or  prairie,  course  W.'*    The  [Leech  Lake  branch 

"On  leaving  White  Oak  pt.  on  the  morning  of  Jan.  31st,  Pike  and 
Miller  proceeded  approximately  up  the  course  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  "  fork" 
(bove  said,  1.  «.,  the  confluence  of  Leech  Lake  fork  with  the  main  stream. 


i 


i 


B 


BALL  CLUB  LAKE  NOTED. 

of   the]  Mississippi   is   only  15  yards  wide.      Encamped 
about  one  mile  below  the  traverse  of  the  meadow. 

Saw  a  very  large  animal  which,  from  its  leaps,  I  supposed 
to  have  been  a  panther ;  but  if  so,  it  was  twice  as  large  as 
those  on  the  lower  Mississippi.     He  evinced  some  disposi- 

This  stretch,  which  Pike  calls  "  nearly  15  miles  long,"  it  just  6  m.  in  an  air- 
line, and  not  much  more  by  the  trail.  The  Mississippi  here  flows  through 
"  meadows,"  as  Pike  correctly  says ;  these  meadows  are  in  part  what  Nicollet 
named  Eagle  Nest  savannah.  It  is  absolutely  flat  and  low  marshy  ground, 
alternating  with  haying  fields,  extending  widely  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  S. 
and  W.  of  White  Oak  1.  Little  White  Oak  pt.  reaches  the  river  in  a  narrow 
tongue  of  higher  ground,  from  the  N. ,  while  higher  up  several  bends  of  the 
river  abut  against  woodland  on  the  S.  Throughout  this  reach  the  river  is  exceed- 
ing tortuous  ;  its  bends  are,  moreover,  so  connected  with  collateral  channels,  in 
part  nstural  and  in  part  artificial,  that  the  stream  is  virtually  double  and  incloses 
a  series  ci  large  islands  in  its  sinuous  folds.  Some  of  these  thoroughfares  float 
the  steamboats  that  ply  on  the  river  to  transport  tbe  hay;  others  are  mere 
ditches,  through  which  only  canoes  can  be  shoved.  Two  m.  below  (N.  N. 
E.  of)  the  Leech  Lake  fork,  the  Mississippi  receives  an  important  affluent, 
namely,  the  discharge  of  Ball  Club  1.,  which  enters  at  about  the  middle  of  the 
S.  border  of  Sect.  31,  T.  14s,  R.  25,  5th  M.,  and  thus  only  about  4  m.  due  W. 
of  Deer  River  (town).  The  difference  in  level  between  this  lake  and  the  river 
is  so  slight  that  sometimes,  when  the  latter  is  full,  it  backs  up  into  the  former. 
Ball  Club  is  a  pretty  large  lake— 6  m.  long,  usually  called  7,  and  i  to  2  m.  broad 
in  different  places,  with  its  long  axii  about  N.  W.  and  S.  E. ;  its  shape  is  not 
very  well  delineated  on  the  Engineer  chart,  being  not  elbowed  enough.  The 
outlet  is  from  the  lower  broad  end,  in  the  same  Sect,  in  which  it  joins  the 
Mississippi,  and  is  thus  less  than  i  m.  long  (little  over  yi  m.).  This  lake  is 
notable  because  it  is  the  usual  and  direct  route  up  to  Little  Lake  Winnibigosh- 
ish  and  so  on,  to  avoid  the  more  circuitous  course  of  the  Mississippi  itself.  You 
traverse  the  main  axis  of  the  lake  from  its  outlet  N.  W.  to  its  head,  and  there 
make  a  portage  of  a  mile  or  so  over  into  Little  Lake  Winnibigoshish.  "  Ball 
Club,"  the  now  universal  name  of  this  body  of  water,  is  a  term  which  translates 
the  F.  La  Crosse  ;  Schoolcraft  renders  once  Lac  a  la  Crose  ;  Pike  has  Lac  Le 
Crosse  and  Le  Cross.  Schoolcraft  has  in  another  place  Bogottowa  1.,  which 
aboriginal  name  is  rendered  Bagatwa  by  Beltrami,  Pagadowan  by  Nicollet,  by 
others  Pagadawin,  etc.  All  these  names  refer  to  the  celebrated  game  of  ball, 
which  the  learned  Anglojibway  Warren  calls  baugahudoivay.  Several  streams 
feed  this  lake ;  one  of  them  comes  in  at  the  head,  from  a  small  lake  which 
Schoolcraft  named  Helix  1.,  from  the  abundance  of  its  snails  of  that  genus, 
To  return  from  this  excursus  to  Pike  at  the  mouth  of  the  Leech  Lake  fork,  up 
which  he  goes :  This  is  of  course  a  definite  and  well-known  point,  exactly  on 
the  dividing  line  between  the  S.  W.  %  of  Sect.  7,  T.  144,  R.  25.  and  the  S.  E. 
X  of  Sect.  12,  T.  144.  R-  26,  sth  M.    I  had  a  good  view  of  the  confluence 


icamped 

upposed 
large  as 
;  disposi- 

.  in  an  air- 
>ws  through 
lat  Nicollet 
shy  ground, 
the  river,  S. 
in  a  narrow 
bends  of  the 
irer  is  excced- 
channels,  in 
land  incloses 
ighfares  float 
ers  are  mere 
jelow  (N.  N. 
tant  affluent, 
middle  of  the 
4  m.  due  W. 
and  the  river 
)  the  former, 
to  3  m.  broad 
shape  is  not 
snough.    The 
li  it  joins  the 
This  lake  is 
Winnibigosh- 
pi  itself.  You 
lad,  and  there 
shish.     "Ball 
lich  translates 
e  has  Lac  Le 
;owa  1.,  which 
,y  Nicollet,  by 
game  of  ball, 
;veral  streams 
ill  lake  which 
if  that  genus. 
Lake  fork,  up 
lint,  exactly  on 
and  the  S.  E. 
the  confluence 


LEECH  LAKE  FORK— WKEAN  SOURCE. 


151 


tion  to  approach.  I  lay  down  (Miller  being  in  the  rear)  in 
order  to  entice  him  to  come  near,  but  he  would  not.  The 
night  was  remarkably  cold.  Some  spirits  which  I  had  in  a 
small  keg  congealed  to  the  consistency  ot  honey. 

from  a  bit  of  high  bank  on  the  left  or  N.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  looking 
across  the  mazes  of  marsh  and  meadow  land  through  which  both  streams  mean- 
der to  their  junction.  Leech  Lake  r.  is  a  very  large  branch  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, deserving  the  name  of  "  fork  "  which  Pike  applies ;  he  also  calls  it  the 
South,  and  the  Sang  Sue  branch  or  fork.  Beltrami  essays  the  Chippewa  name, 
as  Cazaguaguagine-sibi.  Inasmuch  as  Pike  considered  this  river  to  be  the 
main  stream,  I  propose  to  designate  Leech  Lake  and  its  feeders  and  discharge 
as  the  Pikean  Source,  in  distinction  from  the  Julian,  Plantagenian,  and 
Itascan  sources  we  shall  discuss  beyond.  Passing  the  Forks,  Pike  and  Miller 
go  up  Leech  Lake  r.,  Jan.  31st,  to  some  undetermined  point  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  largest  lake  into  which  this  stream  expands,  and  which  Pike  calls  Muddy  1. 
This  is  of  an  oval  figure,  about  4  m.  long  by  half  as  broad ;  its  outlet  is  3jl^  m. 
up  Leech  Lake  r.  from  the  forks.  Nicollet  named  it  Lake  Bessel,  after  the 
famous  scientist — ^his  map  fairly  glitters  with  the  galaxy  of  illustrious  names  he 
reflects  from  the  bosoms  of  lakes  in  Northern  Minnesota,  though  I  cannot 
recall  an  instance  in  which  such  academic  nomenclature  has  been  "  nnder- 
standed  of  the  people "  and  retained  in  their  speech.  The  lake  in  present 
mention  is  always  called  Mud  or  Muddy,  and  is  much  frequented  by  the 
Indians  for  the  eminently  utilitarian  purpose  of  gathering  wild  rice.  I  saw  a 
string  of  their  canoes  heading  that  way  Aug.  15th,  1894. 


'5-' 


CHAPTER  III. 


ITINERARY,    CONCLUDED:     LEECH     LAKE    TO    ST.    LOUIS, 
FEBRUARY   IST-APRIL  3OTH,    1806. 

SATURDAY,  Feb.  1st.  Left  our  camp  pretty  early. 
Passed  a  continued  train  of  prairie,  and  arrived  at 
Lake  La  Sang  Sue  [Leech  lake]  at  half-past  two  o'clock.  I 
will  not  attempt  to  describe  my  feelings  on  the  accomplish- 
ment of  my  voyage,  for  this  is  [what  was  then  mistaken  to 
be]  the  main  source  of  the  Mississippi.'    The  Lake  Winipie 

'  It  is  simple  justice  to  Pike  to  state  here  that,  in  making  this  widely  errone- 
ous statement,  he  reflected  common  report  of  his  day,  and  that  he  elsewhere 
himself  qualifies  the  assertion.  Thus,  in  his  general  review  of  the  Mississippi 
(which  in  the  orig.  ed.  formed  Doc.  No.  18,  p.  41  sfq.  of  the  App.  to  Part  i), 
he  says  of  the  Leech  Lake  branch  :  "  This  is  rather  considered  as  the  main 
source,  although  the  Winipeque  [read  Winnibigoshish]  branch  is  navigable  the 
greatest  distance."  If  the  volume  of  waters  collected  by  Lf.£ch  1.  and  then  con- 
tributed to  the  Mississippi  were  made  the  criterion,  the  true  Itascan  source  might 
have  to  look  to  its  laurels.  Deferring  other  considerations  to  a  more  convenient 
connection,  we  mny  here  confine  attention  to  the  Leech  Lake  system.  The 
lake  itself  is  much  the  largest  body  of  water  in  the  Mississippi  basin  above  Mille 
Lacs,  much  exceeding  in  size  Lake  Winnibigoshish,  which  itself  much  exceeds 
Lake  Cass.  These  three  are  the  largest  reservoirs  of  the  whole  drainage  area 
whose  waters  unite  at  the  junction  of  the  Leech  Lake  branch  with  the  main 
stream.  This  area,  taken  down  to  Pokegama  falls,  is  about  80  m.  from  E. 
to  W.  and  50  from  N.  to  S. ;  its  content  is  more  than  a  thousand  lakes  and 
rivers,  few  of  which  have  been  named.  These  are  quite  clearly  divided  into 
two  main  sets,  namely,  those  of  the  Leech  Lake  system  on  the  one  hand,  and 
all  the  rest  on  th"  other.  Leech  1.  is  not  much  smaller  than  Red  1.  (of  a  differ- 
ent system)  ;  its  greatest  diameter  in  one  direction  is  over  20  m. ;  its  figure  is 
extremely  irregular,  giving  a  shore-line  said  to  be  of  about  160  m.  length,  with 
9  principal  salient  re-entrances  and  6  large  bays  ;  the  feeders,  large  and  small, 
are  25-30  in  number.  The  "  fond  du  lac  "  is  at  that  S.  W.  place  where  the 
waters  of  Kabekona  and  other  lakes  discharge  by  the  Kabekona  r.,  in  Sect.  9, 
T.  142,  R.  31,  5th  M.  This  series  affords,  with  several  portages,  a  tolerably 
direct  approach  to  Lake  Itasca,  which  lies  at  an  air-line  distance  of  about  35  m. 
near:,  due  W.  North  of  the  mouth  of  the  Kabekona,  in  Sect.  9,  T.  143,  of 
the  same  R.  and  M.,  the  Kapukasagitowa,  Pikesagidowag,  or  Bukesagidowag  r. 

15a 


PIKE  AND  MILLER  REACH  LEECH  LAKE. 


153 


ty  early, 
rrived  at 
clock.  I 
coniplish- 
staken  to 
e  Winipie 

idely  errone- 
he  elsewhere 
t  Mississippi 
ip.  to  Part  1), 
I  as  the  main 
navigable  the 
and  then  con- 
source might 
ire  convenient 
[system.    The 
in  above  Mille 
luch  exceeds 
[drainage  area 
rith  the  main 
m.  from  E. 
md  lakes  and 
y  divided  into 
me  hand,  and 
1.  (of  a  differ- 
;  its  figure  is 
1.  length,  with 
irge  and  smM, 
Jace  where  the 
jr.,  in  Sect.  9. 
!S,  a  tolerably 
,f  about  25  "• 
9,  T.  143.  of 
Lcsagidowag  r. 


branch  is  navigable  thence  to  [Upper]  Red  Cedar  [now 
Cass]  lake,  for  the  distance  of  five  leagues,  which  is  [very 
far  from  being]  the  extremity  of  the  navigation.  Crossed 
the  lake  13  miles  to  the  establishment  of  the  N.  W.  Com< 
pany,  where  we  arrived  about   three  o'clock  [lo  o'clock, 

(alls  in  from  the  N.  W.     This  poirt  is  only  7  m.  directly  S.  of  the  southern- 
most  part  of  Cass  1.,  and  a  chain  of  lo  small  lakes  here  lies  between  Cass  and 
Leech,  offering  a  waterway  with  some  portages.     Two  of  these  small  lakes  are 
Moss  and  Shiba  of  Schoolcraft ;  two  others  of  them  are  his  Kapuka    Sagi- 
towa  lakes.     Further  E.  on  the  N.  shore  of  Leech  1.  a  river  falls  in  from  the  N. 
in  Sect.  14,  T.  144,  R.  30.     This  is  Carp  r.  of  S'^hoolcraft,  draining  from  a 
chain  of  small  lakes  which  approach  the  Mississippi  itself  in  that  portion  of  its 
course  which  runs  from  Cass  to  Winnibigoshish  I.     The  N.  E.  extremity  of 
Leech  1.,  called  Rush  1.  by  Schoolcraft  and  Pickering  bay  by  Nicollet,  reaches 
within  4  m.  (air-line)  of  Lake  Winnibigoshish  ;  there  is  a  small  lake  between, 
named  Lake  Duponceau  by  Nicollet,  but  now  known  as  Portage  1.,  from  the 
function  indicated  by  this  name.     In  fact  it  is  easier  to  go  from  Winnibigoshish 
over  into  Leech  than  from  Cass  over  into  the  same.     Along  the  S.  W.,  S.,  S.  E., 
and  E.  shores  of  Leech  1.  is  a  succession  of  affluents,  some  of  the  larger  of 
which  respectively  establish  waterways  of  communication  with  Crow  Wing  r., 
with  Pine  r.,  and  with  Willow  r.     The  largest  of  these  Leech  1.  tributaries  is 
Kwiwisens  or  Boy  r.,  which  offers  by  its  system  of  lakes  and  portages  the  most 
direct  route  by  way  of  Willow  r.  to  Sandy  1.    Some  of  the  lakes  along  this  line 
are  by  Nicollet  named  Hassler,  Gauss,  Deluot,  Eccleston,  Brdle,  and  Rosati. 
One  of  the  communications  with  Pine  r.  is  made  by  Sandy  r. ,  which  falls  into 
Leech  1.  from  the  S.    (The  Crow  Wing  connections  are  noticed  elsewhere  in 
detail.)    Leech  1.  discharges  by  Leech  Lake  r.  near  its  N.  E.  extremity,  the 
outlet  being  in  Sect.  39,  T.  144,  R.  a8,  5th  M.     The  discharge  is  now  con- 
trolled by  a  dam  which,  like  the  similar  structures  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Win- 
nibigoshish and  elsewhere,  is  designed  to  utilize  the  lakes  as  artificial  reservoirs 
to  regulate  the  flow  of  the  Mississippi  according  to  the  requirements  for  naviga- 
tion.   Leech  Lake  r.  is  bowed  irto  an  arc  whose  chord  is  16  m.  long  ;  Mud  1. 
lies  in  its  course,  as  already  said.     The  principal  projection  of  land  into  Leech 
1.  from  the  N.  is  the  well-known  Otter-tail  pt. ;  opposite  this,  from  the  south, 
is  Big  pt.;  continuous  with  which,  by  a  narrow   isthmus,  is  a  very  extensive 
peninsula  of  remarkable  form,  something  like  a  badly  shaped  anchor  or  a  dis- 
torted letter  T.    This  Tau-formed  peninsula  is  the  best  known  and  most  historic 
place  about  the  lake,  as  the  site  of  a  Chippewa  village  and  various  other  estab- 
lishments, of  which  more  anon.     There  are  several  islands  in  Leech  1.;   the 
largest  is  Bear  or  Mukwa  isl.  (Macuwa  of  Beltrami)  ;  two  others  are  Pelican  and 
Goose.     Leech  1.  derives  its  English  name  from  the  F.  Lac  Sang  Sue,  or  L.  aux 
Sangsues,  originally  bestowed  in  compliment  to  the  sanguisugent  annelids  with 
which  it  was  supposed  to  be  peculiarly  favored,  by  the  Chippewas,  who  conveyed 
their  meaning  in  the  voluble  vocable  Kasagaskwadjimekang. 


m 


154 


HOUSED  BY  THE  NORTHWEST  COMPANY. 


9i 


p.  m.] ;  found  all  the  gates  locked,  but  upon  knocking  were 
admitted,  and  received  with  marked  attention  and  hos- 
pitality by  Mr.  Hugh  M'Gillis.  Had  a  good  dish  of  coffee, 
biscuit,  butter,  and  cheese  for  supper. 

Sunday,  Feb.  2d.  Remained  all  day  within  doors.  In  the 
evening  sent  an  invitation  to  Mr.  [George]  Anderson,  who 
was  an  agent  of  Dickson,  and  also  for  some  young  Indians 
at  his  house,  to  come  over  and  breakfast  in  the  morning. 

Feb.  3d.  Spent  the  day  in  reading  Volney's  Egypt,' 
proposing  some  queries  to  Mr.  Anderson,  and  preparing  my 
young  man  [Miller]  to  return  with  a  supply  of  provisions  to 
my  party. 

Feb.  ph.  Miller  departed  this  morning.  Mr.  Anderson 
returned  to  his  quarters.  My  legs  and  ankles  were  so  much 
swelled  that  I  was  not  able  to  wear  my  own  clothes  and 
was  obliged  to  borrow  some  from  Mr.  M'Gillis. 

*Voy.  en^gypteet  enSyrie,  etc.,  avol9.,8vo,Paris,  1787;  tr.  Eng.,  London, 
1787,  etc.  Constantin  Franfois  Chasseboeuf,  Comte  de  Volney,  b.  Craon, 
Anjou,  Feb.  3d,  1757,  d.  Paris,  Apr.  25th,  iSso,  is  best  known  in  letters  by  his 
celebrated  work,  commonly  called  "Volney's  Ruins,"  i.  «.,  Les  Ruines  oa 
MMitations  sur  les  Revolutions  des  Empires,  etc.,  orig.  ed.  1791,  numberless 
trans,  and  eds.  down  to  the  present  time.  The  illustrious  author  was  the  peer 
of  Voltaire  or  Paine  in  philosophy  and  religion,  and  underwent  the  usual  vicis- 
situdes of  free-thinkers  of  his  time,  from  the  prison  to  the  peerage.  His  intel- 
lect was  clear  and  profound,  his  erudition  vast  an.^  varied ;  so  they  called  him 
an  "  infidel " — whatever  they  may  have  meant  L^  rhat — and  having  given  him 
the  name  would  have  hanged  him  had  he  been  hangable.  His  researches  were 
chiefly  in  the  fields  of  history,  geography,  archaeology,  linguistics,  statecraft, 
and  priestcraft,  all  of  which  he  illuminated  to  the  great  inconvenience  of  politi- 
cal and  ecclesiastical  demagogues.  NuUum  tetigit  quod  non  ernavit ;  the  clergy, 
however,  he  adorned  with  a  touch  that  Voltaire  himself  might  have  envied. 
Count  Volney  was  in  the  U.  S.  in  1795-6-7  ;  his  controversy  with  the  meri- 
torious but  somewhat  obtuse  Priestley,  on  the  unquestionable  unorthodoxy  of 
his  Ruins,  brought  his  more  formal  scientific  works  into  prominence,  and 
accentuated  the  fame  of  his  most  imperishable  treatise.  Cheap  editions  of 
the  Ruins  abound,  usually  including  the  tract  originally  entitled  La  Loi 
Naturelle  ;  this  is  a  little  catechism  designed  by  a  great  philosopher  to  kindly 
help  little  fools  out  of  some  of  their  folly ;  it  is  quite  worthy  to  rank  with 
Paine's  Age  of  Reason.  Volney's  complete  works  were  edited  by  A.  Bossange, 
8  vols.,  Paris,  1820-36.  Pike  was  in  good  company  on  the  3d,  while  he  nursed 
his  sore  feet. 


ARRIVAL  OF  MAIN  PARTY. 


iSS 


Feb.  5th.  One  of  Mr.  M'Gillis'  clerks  [Roussand  or 
Boussant']  had  been  sent  to  some  Indian  lodges  and 
expected  to  return  in  four  days,  but  had  now  been  absent 
nine.  Mr.  Grant  was  dispatched  in  order  to  find  out  what 
had  become  of  him. 

Feb.  6th.  My  men  arrived  at  the  fort  about  four  o'clock.* 
Mr.  M'Gillis  asked  if  I  had  any  objections  to  his  hoisting 
their  [British]  flag  in  compliment  to  ours.  I  made  none,  as 
I  had  not  yet  explained  to  him  my  ideas.  In  making  a 
traverse  of  the  lake,  some  of  my  men  had  their  ears,  some 
their  noses,  and  others  their  chins  frozen. 

Feb.  ph.  Remained  within  doors,  my  limbs  being  still 
very  much  swelled.  Addressed  a  letter  to  Mr.  M'Gillis  on 
the  subject  of  the  N.  W.  Company  trade  in  this  quarter.' 

Feb.  8th.  Took  the  latitude  and  found  it  to  be  47°  16'  1 3". 
Shot  with  our  rifles. 

Sunday,  Feb.  gth.  Mr.  M'Gillis  and  myself  paid  a  visit  to 
Mr.  Anderson,  an  agent  of  Mr.  Dickson  of  the  Lower  Miss- 
issippi, who  resided  at  the  west  end  of  the  lake.*    Found 

'This  clerk  is  named  Roussand  beyond,  Feb.  9th.  He  is  "  a  Monsr.  Bous- 
sant "  in  the  early  text,  1807,  p.  40. 

*  We  have  no  hint  of  the  route  by  which  the  main  party  reached  Leech  1. 
after  Pike  first  left  them  on  the  26th  of  Jan.,  unless  one  is  conveyed  in  the  state- 
ment that  Miller  returned  with  a  supply  of  provisions  for  them.  That  would 
seem  to  imply  that  they  followed  Pike's  trail,  and  came  to  Leech  1.  by  a  route 
the  same  as  his,  or  one  not  materially  different.  This  is  in  fact  what  they  did  : 
see  note",  p.  14a.  The  shorter  way  would  have  been  that  Willow  River 
traverse  indicated  in  note  ',  p.  153.  What  seems  to  have  been  a  usual 
route  in  former  days  is  clearly  indicated  on  Nicollet's  map.  Starting  from 
Sandy  1.  it  struck  W.  to  Willow  r.  and  went  up  this  to  Rosati  and  Brule  lakes, 
whence  by  portage  over  to  Eccleston  or  Deluot  1.,  and  so  to  the  Boy's  River 
connection,  continued  through  Gauss  and  Hassler  lakes.  All  these  have  differ- 
ent nuines  now,  and  I  cannot  speak  with  confidence  in  the  new  nomenclature. 
Among  the  lakes  of  Nicollet's  series  appear  to  be  those  now  called  Big  Rice, 
Thunder,  and  Boy. 

'  This  letter  formed  Doc.  No.  5,  on  p.  14  of  the  App.  to  Ft.  I  of  the  orig. 
ed.  It  is  given  beyond,  together  with  Mr.  M'Gillis'  reply  ;  which  latter  was 
Doc.  No.  6,  p.  17  of  the  same  App.  in  the  orig.  ed. 

'  This  is  the  first  intimation  we  have  that  Pike  is  not  already  at  the  west  end, 
or  at  any  rate  on  the  west  side  of  Leech  1.  He  certainly  has  told  us  that  he 
"crossed  the  lake  12  miles"  to  reach  Mr.  M'Gillis'  house,  where  he  is  now 


;-'u « 1 


.,^W' 


.,*ilfgr' 


156 


MCGILLIS  AND  PIKE  VISIT  ANDERSON. 


him  eligibly  situated  as  to  trade,  but  his  houses  bad.  I 
rode  in  a  cariole  for  one  person,  constructed  in  the  following; 
manner :  Boards  planed  smooth,  turned  up  in  front  about 
two  feet,  coming  to  a  point,  and  about  2}4  feet  wide 
behind ;  on  which  is  fixed  a  box  covered  with  dressed 
skins  painted ;  this  box  is  open  at  the  top,  but  covered  iti 
front  about  two-thirds  of  the  length.  The  horse  is  fastened 
between  the  shafts.  The  rider  wraps  himself  up  in  a  buf- 
falo-robe and  sits  flat  down,  having  a  cushion  to  lean  his  back 
against.  Thus  accoutered,  with  a  fur  cap,  etc.,  he  may  bid 
defiance  to  the  wind  and  weather.  Upon  our  return  we 
found  that  some  of  the  Indians  had  already  returned  from 
the  hunting-camps;  also,  Monsieur  Roussand  [Mr.  M'Gillis' 
clerk  of  Feb.  5th],  the  gentleman  supposed  to  have  been 
killed  by  the  Indians.  His  arrival  with  Mr.  Grant  diffused 
a  general  satisfaction  through  the  fort. 

Fed  loth.  Hoisted  the  American  flag  in  the  fort.  Tlie 
English  yacht  [Jack]  still  flying  at  the  top  of  the  flagstaff, 
I  directed  the  Indians  and  my  riflemen  to  shoot  at  it. 
They  soon  broke  the  iron  pin  to  which  it  was  fastened,  and 
brought  it  to  the  ground.     Reading  Shenstone,  etc. 

Feb.  nth.  The  Sweet,  Buck,  Burnt,  etc.,  arrived,  all 
chiefs  of  note,  but  the  former  in  particular,  a  venerable  old 
man.^    From  him  I  learned  that  the  Sioux  occupied  this 


■? 


I 


quartered.  The  only  place  marked  on  Pike's  map  is  on  the  W.  side,  witli  the 
legend  "  N.  \V.  C<».  Ho.  Lat  47®  16'  18"  N."  The  position  of  this  seems  to 
have  been  near  Sugar  pt.,  and  to  be  the  same  as  that  marked  "  Old  N.  W. 
House  "  on  Lt.  James  Allen's  map  facing  p.  76  of  Schoolcraft's  Rep.  pub.  1834. 
There  have  been  various  trading-houses  at  the  same  and  different  points  about 
Leech  1.,  simultaneously  and  successively.  In  1833,  according  to  Schoolcraft's 
large  map  in  the  work  just  said,  there  was  a  "  Tr.  Post "  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
lake,  between  the  outlet  and  Boy's  r.,  but  the  principal  one  was  on  the  Tau- 
formed  i^ninsula,  and  was  a  post  of  the  Am.  Fur  Co.  Schoolcraft  was  camped 
there  July  i6th,  1832.  This  place  was  then  also  the  site  of  the  Chippewa  village 
of  Cue  ;lc  Platte  or  Flat  Mouth,  a  chieftain  of  whom  Pike  has  something  to  say 
soon,  and  of  whom  Nicollet,  who  met  him  there  in  1836,  has  told  us  somewhat, 
Rep.  1843,  p.  61  seq. 

'  The  Sweet  of  the  above  paragraph  is  elsewhere  named  by  Pike  as  N\  is- 
coup  and  Le  Sucre,  first  chief  of  a  Red  Lake  band  of  Chippewas ;  The  Burnt, 


UPPER  RED  CBDAR  OR  CASS  LAKE. 


I  $7 


bad.  I 
ollowing 
nt  about 
eet  wiile 

dressed 
(vered  in 

fastened 
in  a  buf- 
1  his  back 

may  bid 
•eturn  we 
•ned  from 
.  M'Gillis" 
lave  been 
it  diffused 

fort.  The 
e  flagstaff, 
loot  at  it. 
tened, and 
tc. 

.rrived,  all 
lerable  old 
lupied  this 

|side,  with  the 
this  seems  to 
"Old  N.  W. 
lep.  pub.  1834. 
points  about 
1  Schoolcraft's 
E.  side  o(  the 
_  on  the  Tau- 
ft  was  camped 
Ijppewa  village 
lething  to  say 
us  somewhat, 

1  Pike  as  Wis- 
The  Burnt, 


ground  when,  to  use  his  own  phrase,  "  he  was  a  made  man 
and  began  to  hunt ;  that  they  occupied  it  the  year  that  the 
French  missionaries  were  killed  at  the  river  Pacagama." 
The  Indians  flocked  in. 

Feb.  I2th.  Bradley  and  myself,  with  Mr.  M'Gillis  and 
two  of  his  rten,  left  Leech  Lake  at  ten  o'clock,  and  arrived 
at  the  house  at  [Upper]  Red  Cedar  [now  Cass']  Lake,  at 

as  Oole  and  La  Brule,  for  which  latter  phrase  I  suppose  Le  Brfll^  might  be  pre- 
ferred by  some  fastidious  persons.  The  Buck  is  laba  VVaddik  of  Schoolcraft, 
Summary,  etc.,  1855,  p.  144.  The  Sweet  was  probably  not  so  named  from  any 
such  personal  peculiarity  as  would  have  singled  him  out  among  all  Indians  of  what- 
ever tribe,  but  with  reference  in  some  way  to  the  concrete  juice  of  the  sugar-maple, 
Actr  sacckarinum,  upon  which  he  fed  :  (f.  Sugar  pt. ,  a  place-name  in  this  vicinity. 
This  is  evidently  the  poetical  case  of  "  sweets  to  The  Sweet " — not  of  saccharum 
per  SI.  The  scholarly  Anglojibway,  Hon.  W.  W.  Warren,  who  should  know 
best  how  to  spell  Chippewa  words  of  any  author  I  have  read,  gives  the  name  as 
Weeshcoob.  This  chief  had  great  character,  and  a  long  career.  For  some  of 
his  exploits  which  became  historical,  see  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  V.  1885,  pp.  331, 
376,  453,  454,  458 — latter  with  esp.  ref.  to  Pike. 

*  Haut  Lac  aux  Cidres  Rouges  of  the  French,  Upper  Red  Cedar  1.  of  the 
English,  in  distinction  from  the  one  of  like  name  much  further  down  the  Miss- 
issippi, near  Aitkin  :  see  note  *',  p.  135.  Pike  is  careless  about  the  names,  and 
calls  both  lakes  Red  Cedar,  or  Cedar  without  further  qualification.  The  valua- 
ble species  of  Juniperus,  commonly  known  as  "  cedar  "  or  "  red  cedar,"  is  not 
a  very  abundant  tree  in  N.  Minnesota,  and  its  prevalence  about  each  of  these 
lakes  duplicated  their  designation.  They  are  too  for  apart,  luckily,  for  any 
confusion  to  have  ever  arisen.  Pike's  descriptib.i  of  Up.  R.  C.  1.  is  not  good, 
and  his  map  is  so  far  out  as  to  omit  entirely  the  entrance  of  the  Mississippi  into 
this  lake  ;  for  what  he  delineates  as  and  mistook  for  the  entrance  of  the  main 
river  is  merely  the  discharge  of  the  Turtle  River  chain  of  lakes  from  the  Beltra- 
mian  or  so-called  Julian  source  of  the  Mississippi,  which  falls  in  at  the  extreme 
N.  border  of  the  lake.  Thus,  what  the  text  means  by  saying  "  from  the  entronce 
of  the  Mississippi  to  the  streight  is  called  six  miles,"  is  the  distance  from  the 
mouth  of  Turtle  r.  to  the  strait  which  divides  off  Pike's  bay  from  the  rest  of 
Cass  1.;  "thence  to  the  south  end,"  etc.,  is  the  length  of  Pike's  bay:  the 
"bay  at  the  entrance  "of  the  supposed  Mississippi,  i.e.,  of.  Turtle  r.,  means 
the  general  recess  of  Cass  1.  on  the  N. ;  and  finally,  the  "  large  point,"  given  as 
3>^  m.  "  from  the  north  side,"  is  the  point  of  Colcaspi  or  Grand  isl.,  which  is 
almost  a  peninsula,  and  which  marks  off  Allen's  bay  from  the  rest  of  Cass  1. 
With  this  much  by  way  of  comment  on  Pike,  we  will  look  further  at  this  inter- 
V'ing  body  of  water,  which  I  have  lately  crossed  twice.  Its  first  English 
name,  after  the  ones  above  given,  was  Lake  Cassina,  bestowed  by  School- 
craft in  1820,  in  honor  of  Governor  and  General  Lewis  Cass  (b.  Exeter,  N.  H., 
Oct.  9th,  178a,  d.  Detroit,  Mich.,  June  17th,  1866),  leader  of  the  expedition 


i^i^ 


IS8       UPPER  RED  CEDAR  OR  CASS  LAKE. 

sunset,  a  distance  of  30  miles.     My  ankles  were  very  much 

which  made  iti  neareit  approach  to  the  true  source  of  the  Miu.  r.,  in  July  of 
that  year.  Their  camp  wa»  un  the  N.  shore,  close  by  the  mouth  of  Turtle  r., 
on  the  W.  side  of  that  mouth,  directly  opposite  the  site  of  the  N.  W.  Co.  Ilo. 
where  Pike  now  is.  The  name  "  Cassina  Lake  "  stands  on  the  Schlcr.  map  of 
the  i330  Cass  exped.;  item,  "Cassina  L."  is  on  Long's  map,  1833;  the  adj. 
Cassinian  also  occurs  in  Schlcr.  and  elsewhere  ;  but  the  latter  afterward  clipi)ed 
the  name  to  Cass,  and  it  has  become  fixed  in  this  form — the  same  as  that  of  the 
county  later  dedicated  appropriately  to  this  eminent  statesman  and  soldier.  The 
Schlcr.  map  of  1830  also  lays  down  the  Turtle  River  system  with  approximate 
accuracy,  and  on  this  map  was  first  traced  the  course  of  the  Mississippi  to  Lake 
Itasca.  This  had  not  then  received  its  present  name,  but  stands  there  as 
"  L.  Labeish,"  1.  *.,  Lac  La  Biche,  or  Lac  k  la  Biche,  translating  the  Chip- 
pewa Omoshkos  Sogiagon,  and  translated  Elk  1.  in  English.  The  main  defect 
of  the  1830  map  was  in  laying  down  the  Itascan  source  to  the  N.  W.  instead 
of  to  the  S.  W.  of  Cass  I. — thus  really  on  the  line  of  the  Turtle  River  source. 
This  mistake  was  corrected  in  1833,  the  year  that  Schoolcraft's  party  were 
guided  to  Lake  Itasca  itself  by  the  Chippewa  chief,  Ozawindib  or  Yellow  Head. 
Schoolcraft's  nomenclature,  as  far  as  possible,  was  accepted  by  the  greatest 
geographer  who  ever  saw  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  Nicollet's  example 
in  this  respect  has  been  generally  followed.  Cass  is  a  beautiful  lake,  the  third 
largest  in  the  drainage-area  of  the  uppermost  Mississippi,  being  exceeded  in 
size  only  by  Winnibigoshish  and  Leech.  The  greatest  length  is  nearly  meridi- 
onal ;  including  Pike's  bay  it  is  q^  m. ;  the  greatest  breadth  is  almost  due  E. 
and  VV.;  including  Allen's  bay  it  is  7^  m.  In  position  with  reference  to  the 
5th  meridian  (the  only  one  with  which  we  have  to  do  in  this  note),  the  Range  line 
of  townships  30-31,  and  the  Township  line  of  145-146,  decussate  at  right  angles 
in  the  center  of  the  lake,  just  oil  the  E.  shore  of  Colcaspi  isl.  The  body  of  water 
thus  occupies  portions  of  four  townships.  In  figure  Cass  1.  is  more  irregular 
than  Lake  Winnibigoshish,  less  so  than  Leech  1.  Pike's  bay,  on  the  S.,  is 
almost  shut  off  from  the  rest  of  the  lake  by  a  long,  narrow  peninsula  which 
stretches  nearly  across  from  E.  to  W.,  leaving  but  a  very  narrow  thoroughfare. 
Pike's  bay  is  of  rounded  form,  about  3  m.  in  any  diameter.  Allen's  bay,  on 
the  W.,  is  almost  equally  well  marked  off  by  Colcaspi  isl.;  it  is  2}^  m.  long, 
with  an  average  width  of  over  a  mile,  and  includes  two  small  islands,  named  Elm 
and  Garden.  Red  Cedar  isl.  lies  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  main  body  of  water ; 
but  the  most  conspicuous  feature  of  the  lake  is  the  island  best  known  as  Grand 
or  Colcaspi.  The  latter  curious  name  is  one  of  those  verbal  wind-eggs  which 
Schoolcraft  was  fond  of  hatching  ;  he  tells  us  it  is  compounded  of  fragments  of 
the  names  of  "  the  three  prior  explorers,"  meaning  Cass  and  himself,  1820,  and 
Pike,  1806.  This  Island  of  Ozawindib,  as  named  by  Brower,  1894,  is  shaped 
like  a  blacksmith's  anvil  or  molar  tooth  ;  its  greatest  diameters,  along  conjugate 
diagonal  axes,  are  2^  and  3^  m.;  aside  from  its  horns,  the  island  would  yield 
a  square  of  about  i  V  m.  The  Chippewa  village  of  Ozawindib,  where  School- 
craft was  camped  July  loth  and  again  July  15th — between  which  dates  he  went  to 


UPPER  RED  CBDAR  OR  CASS  LAKE.  I  $9 

swelled  and  I  was  very  lame.    From  the  entrance  of  the 

Itasca  and  back— waa  on  the  N.  E.  point  of  the  anvil.  I  should  adviie  canoeiitt 
to  give  this  point  a  wide  berth ;  for  a  shoal  runs  far  out  northward,  and  the 
birch-bark  may  thump  on  a  stony  bottom  if  there  is  any  sea.  This  shoal 
reaches  out  directly  across  the  straightest  traverse  from  the  inlet  to  the  outlet  of 
the  Missiuippi.  Ozawindib  isl.  is  almost  a  peninsula  in  relation  to  the  north 
shore  of  the  lake,  but  a  canoe  can  generally  tie  floated  across  the  isthmus.  I  waded 
anil  dragged  my  boat  on  going  up,  but  on  returning  was  obliged  to  make  a 
portage  of  a  few  paces,  as  the  water  had  lowered.  But  even  if  it  be  found 
a  carrying-place,  it  is  the  shortest  and  best  way  across  the  lake  from  the  inlet 
of  the  Miuissippi,  either  to  its  outlet  or  to  the  inl?t  of  Turtle  r.  The  latter 
falU  in  at  the  extreme  N.  of  the  lake,  2^  m.  W.  N.  W.  from  .  <utlc;  of  the 
Mississippi,  in  the  N.  E.  }^  of  Sect.  i8,  T.  146,  R.  30.  Heu  ame  David 
Thompson  in  1798,  along  the  usual  traders'  route  from  the  Ret'  River  country, 
in  part  the  then  supposed  course  of  the  Mississippi  itself  i>ove  Fi*d  Cedar  1 
Here,  in  Roy's  N.  W.  Co.  House,  on  the  E.  or  left  ban!  •  Pike  this  laMi  of 
February,  1806.  Here  were  Cass  and  Schoolcraft  in  .Sso  ;  here  co  le  lieltrami 
in  i8'-i  ir  wn  this  same  Turtle  r.  from  his  Lake  Juiia,  and  so  iro  ihe  Julian 
source  of  the  Mississippi.  A  mission  once  stood  here  ;  thert  is  n^vr  an  Indian 
village  at  a  little  distance  westward.  The  place  may  be  recognized  at  a  distance 
by  a  high  ridge  on  the  right  or  W.  bank  ;  and  on  nearer  approach  uy  a  stout 
post  with  historical  inscriptions,  erected  by  Brower  in  August,  1 994.  About 
a  mile  up  Turtle  r.  expands  into  a  lake,  called  Kichi  by  Nicollet  in  1836, 
and  by  error  Kitihi,  as  on  Brewer's  map  of  1892.  No  other  considera- 
ble stream  enters  Cass  I.,  excepting  the  Mississippi  itself.  The  Mississippi 
leaves  the  lake  in  a  recess  on  the  N.  E.  shore,  easy  to  find  by  good  land-marks — 
notice  a  clump  of  trees  on  the  right  of  the  outlet  as  you  approach  il,  and 
a  house  on  the  first  rising  ground  to  the  left.  The  position  is  in  the  N.  E.  }i( 
of  Sect.  31,  T.  146,  R.  30.  From  this  point  the  river  flows  nearly  E.  S.  E.  into 
Lake  Winnibigoshish  (makes  2^  m.  of  southing  in  8^  m.  of  easting — air-line 
about  9  m.).  The  general  course  is  about  straight,  but  the  reciprocal  bends  are 
numerous,  giving  an  actual  course,  as  I  should  judge,  of  16^  m.,  though  they 
call  it  18.  This  is  Cass  r.  or  Red  Cedar  r. — the  most  beautiful  part  of  the 
Mississippi — good  flat  water  and  plenty  of  it  at  the  lowest  stages  of  canoeing, 
with  a  moderate  current  and  no  rapids,  shoals,  or  snags  to  speak  of  ;  also,  good 
camping  places  all  along  on  the  wooded  points  or  knolls.  The  only  tributary  of 
this  "  interlaken  "  course  of  the  Mississippi  is  from  the  S.,  about  halfway  between 
Cass  and  Winnibigoshish  ;  being  the  discharge  from  Horn  1.  (Eshkabwaka  I. 
of  Owen),  ^  of  a  mile  (direct)  £.  of  the  boundary  between  Itasca  and  Beltrami 
COS.,  in  the  S.  E.  )4  of  Sect.  30,  T.  146,  R.  29. 

Pike  at  Leech  1.  was  the  nearest  he  ever  went  to  the  true  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi— about  25  m.  in  an  air-line  E.  of  Lake  Itasca.  Pike  at  Cass  1.  is  further 
away  from  this  goal,  but  he  is  on  the  course  of  the  great  river.  Having  already 
noted  the  Leech  Lake  sub-basin,  or  what  I  call  the  Pikean  source,  I  will  with 
the  reader's  indulgence  indicate  the  main  features  of  the  true  Itascan  or  Nicol- 


i6o 


A  CANOE  VOYAGE  TO  LAKE  ITASCA. 


Mississippi  to  the  straight  is  called  six  miles,  S.  W.  course. 

letian  sub-basin.  To  this  end  we  will  start  together  from  Cass  1.  and  paddle 
our  own  canoe  to  Lake  Itasca.  The  following  observations  are  from  my  canoe 
voyage  from  Deer  River  to  Lake  Itasca  and  return,  Aug.  isth-Sept.  3d,  1894  ; 
The  Mississippi  enters  Cass  1.  at  the  'V,  end  of  Allen's  bay,  by  a  crooked  S- 
shaped  thoroughfare  about  a  mile  long,  from  the  next  lake  above.  The  inlet 
into  Cass  opens  in  the  center  of  Sect.  29,  T.  146,  R.  31  ;  the  outlet  from  the 
other  lake  is  in  the  N.  W.  X  "f  'he  same  section.  So  close,  in  fact,  are  the 
two  lakes,  that  at  two  places  they  are  only  separated  by  100  yards  or  less.  At 
the  northern  one  of  these  short  portages  stands  a  dilapidated  old  chapel,  once  a 
mission-house,  and  other  buildings  are  scattered  about,  chiefly  Chippewa  cabins. 
I  could  learn  no  name  for  this  next  lake,  though  it  appears  to  be  the  one  School- 
craft called  Andrusia  in  1855  ;  but  if  so,  the  name  has  lapsed.  A  letter  before 
me  from  Hon.  J.  V.  Brower,  Itasca  State  Park  Commissioner,  dated  St.  Paul, 
Sept.  15th,  1894,  says :  "  The  beautiful  body  of  water  situated  upon  Sects.  7,  8, 
17,  18,  19,  20,  29,  and  30,  T.  146,  R.  31,  5th  M.,  above  Cass  lake,  and  through 
which  the  Mississippi  takes  its  course,  has  this  day  been  named  by  me  Lake 
Elliott  Coues,  as  a  slight  recognition  of  your  services  to  the  public,  and  for  the 
purposes  of  a  more  accurate  and  correct  geographical  description."  This  lal^e 
is  3}4  m.  long  by  i^  m.  in  greatest  breadth,  with  its  long  axis  meridiuiial. 
The  Mississippi  runs  across  its  S.  end  about  |^  of  a  mile  from  W.  to  E.,  the 
inlet  being  in  the  N.  W.  ^  of  Sect.  30  of  the  same  T.  and  R.  as  the  outlet. 
A  trader's  house  is  on  the  N.  side,  in  a  Chippewa  village.  A  winding  course  of 
the  Mississippi  of  2  m.  brings  us  to  another  laka,  Pamitascodiac  or  Tascodiac  of 
Schoolcraft,  and  Vaudermaelen  of  Nicollet.  This  is  hourglass-shapi...  2%  111. 
long  by  about  a  mile  across  either  bulb.  The  Mississippi  enters  it  at  the  X. 
and  leaves  it  at  the  E.,  the  inlet  and  outlet  being  within  half  a  mile  of  each 
other,  in  Sect.  25,  T.  146,  R.  32.  For  2  or  3  m.  above  Lake  Tascodiac  canoe- 
ing is  easy,  through  the  flat  water  of  marsh  and  meadow  land  ;  but  then  begins 
the  trouble  which  hardly  intermits  thence  to  Lake  Bemidji.  The  canoeist  may 
as  well  put  on  his  rubber  boots  at  the  start  and  keep  them  on,  for  he  will  have 
to  wade  most  of  the  way  and  drag  or  shove  his  boat  through  almost  incessant 
rocky  rapMs,  shoals,  and  snags.  My  canoe  drew  only  about  3  inches  of  water  when 
my  man  and  myself  were  overboard,  yet  we  had  great  diiHculty  in  getting  along 
at  all  without  portaging.  Where  the  water  is  flat,  it  is  shoal  and  snaggy  ;  other- 
wise it  is  all  "  Metoswa"  rapids.  The  distance  from  Lake  Tascodiac  to  Lake 
Bemidji  is  only  8  m.  in  an  air  line,  but  this  is  the  chord  of  a  considerable  arc 
the  river  describes  northward,  which,  with  the  minor  bends  around  the  wooded 
points,  makes,  as  I  judge,  about  13^^  m.  of  water-course.  The  people  call  it 
20  m.,  but  that  is  because  it  is  such  a  hard  road  to  travel.  It  took  me  a  day 
and  a  quarter  to  make  Bemidji  from  Elliott  Coues  ;  but  I  did  the  same  distance 
in  less  than  one  day  coming  down.  Beltrami  calls  .his  course  "  Demizimagua- 
maguen-sibi,  or  River  of  Lake  Traverse,"  II.  p.  434 — which  reminds  me  to  say 
that  among  the  Indians  each  section  of  the  river  between  lakes  takes  the  name  of 
the  lake  whence  it  flows.     The  Bemidji  section  of  the  ^Mississippi  issues  from  the 


■:ilS 


^^1 


A  CANOE  VOYAGE  TO  LAKE  ITASCA. 


i6i 


course. 

nd  paddle 
my  canoe 

3d,  1894 : 
;rooked  S- 
The  inlet 
t  from  the 
ct,  are  the 
r  less.    At 
pel,  once  a 
;wa  cabins. 
one  School- 
Etter  before 
d  St.  Paul, 
Sects.  7,  8, 
ind  through 
)y  me  Lake 
and  for  the 
This  lake 
meridional. 
^  to  E.,  the 
i  the  outlet. 
ing  course  of 
Tascodiac  of 
\p<,^    2%  m. 
lit  at  the  X. 
lile  of  each 
[odiac  canue- 
then  begins 
lanoeisl  may 
le  will  have 
ist  incessant 
If  water  when 
;etting  along 

iggy ;  oil'"- 

Idiac  to  Lake 
[siderable  arc 
the  wooili'd 
leople  call  it 
,k  me  a  day 
ime  distance 
|emizimagua- 
ds  me  to  say 
the  name  of 
iues  from  the 


Thence  to  the  south  end,  S.  30  E.  four  miles.    The  bay  at 

lake  of  that  name  in  the  N.  W.  %  of  Sect.  2,  T.  146,  R.  33,  near  the  middle 
of  the  E.  shore.  This  outlet  is  hidden  in  a  maze  of  bulrushes,  and  as  there  is  no 
conspicuous  landmark  on  shore  it  is  not  easy  to  find.  Lake  Bemidji  is  a  large 
body  of  water  5}^  m.  long  N.  and  S.,  by  i}^  to  2^  m.  broad,  of  somewhat 
pyriform  figure,  lying  athwart  the  course  of  the  Mississippi ;  whence  the  F.  name 
Lac  Traverse,  which  we  render  Traverse,  Travers,  and  Cross  lake  ;  Schl. 
named  it  Queen  Anne's  1.  in  1855.  Among  the  Indian  forms  are  Pamitchi, 
as  Schoolcraft;  Pemidji,  as  Nicollet;  also  Bermiji,  Permidji,  etc.,  and  with 
an  additional  element  Bemejigemug,  Pamajiggermug,  etc.  The  N.  end 
of  Hemidji  is  only  2^  m.  from  the  S.  end  of  Turtle  1.,  so  that  the  Julian 
sources  may  be  here  easily  reached  by  portage.  From  the  outlet  as  above 
described  to  the  inlet  is  2j^  m.  on  a  S.  W.  course  ;  for  the  Mississippi  enters  at 
the  extreme  S.  W.  angle,  in  the  N.  W.  ^  of  Sect.  16,  T.  146,  R.  33.  Here  are 
some  Chippewa  cabins,  and  here  is  also  the  lair  of  one  of  the  ferocious  blood- 
sucking parasites  of  the  tribe  of  Indian  traders.  The  system  only  differs  from 
robbery  in  name.  For  instance,  the  squaw-man  will  sell  you  a  whitefish  for  10 
cents  a  pound.  He  bought  that  fish  for  two  cents  a  pound  from  the  Indian  who 
caught  it,  and  he  also  paid  for  it  in  goods  at  his  own  price,  probably  about  five 
times  their  cost  to  him.  Those  old  traders  who  were  satisfied  to  make  250  per 
cent,  on  prime  cost  were  meek  and  lowly  philanthropists  in  comparison  with 
some  of  their  successors.  A  short  wide  thoroughfare  of  about  40  rods  leads 
directly  from  Bemidji  into  Lake  Irving,  so  named  by  Schoolcraft  in  1832  after 
the  facile  writer,  and  still  so  called.  This  is  only  i|^  m.  broad  by  J^  long, 
lying  chiefly  in  Sects.  16  and  17  ;  the  Mississippi  conies  directly  across  its  short 
axis  from  S.  to  N.  The  inlet  is  at  the  S.  E.  corner  of  Sect.  17.  On  Nicollet's 
putilished  map  "  L.  Irving"  appears  out  of  place  altogether,  on  another  stream. 
But  that  is  a  mere  accident  of  cartography,  for  which  the  admirable  geographer 
is  not  responsible  ;  he  knew  where  Lake  Irving  is  as  well  as  I  do.  Three  short 
bends  and  then  a  straight  course  of  a  mile  bring  us  up  the  Mississippi  to  the 
mouth  of  a  river  from  the  S.,  to  be  particularly  noted  for  several  reasons.  It  is 
tlie  largest  remaining  tributary  of  the  Mississippi,  and  one  of  its  sources  is  a  lake 
no  more  than  5  m.  from  Itasca  itself.  This  river  joins  the  Mississippi  in  the 
S.  E.  %  of  Sect.  20,  T.  146,  R.  33.  Going  up  it  we  at  once  fall  upon  the  very 
small  Lake  Marquette  ;  next.  Lake  La  Salle  (Lasale  on  Nicollet's  map),  larger 
and  hourglass-shaped  ;  next,  Lake  Plantagenet,  a  two-legged  body  of  water, 
2^1  m.  long  by  I  ^  broad.  The  first  two  were  named  in  1832  by  Schoolcraft, 
wlio  also  said  the  largest  one  was  called  Kubba  Kunna,  or  Rest  in  the  Path  1. — 
these  terms  becoming  Rahbahkanna  and  Resting  1.  in  Allen.  Continuing  through 
Lake  Plantagenet  and  up  this  "  Plantagenian  source"  of  the  Mississippi,  as  it 
has  come  to  be  known,  we  find  that  it  forks  in  Sect.  21,  T.  144,  R.  34,  at  a 
direct  distance  of  7  or  8  m.  from  Lake  Plantagenet.  The  fork  on  our  left  as  we 
go  up  takes  us  5  or  6  m.  further  to  Lake  Naiwa,  called  Neway  1.  by  Nicollet, 
and  recently  renamed  Lake  George.  Alongside  and  emptying  into  this  is 
Nicollet's  L.  Bowditch,  lately  renamed  L.  Paine.     These  two  are  in  Sects.  15, 19, 


I* 


11': 


163 


A  CANOE  VOYAGE  TO  LAKE   ITASCA. 


the  entrance  extends  nearly  E.  and  W.  six  miles;  it  is  about 

22,  and  21,  T.  143,  R.  34.  Going  up  the  other  fork,  we  find  in  about  3  m. 
that  it  forks.  The  fork  on  our  left  as  we  go  up  comes  N.  from  a  number  of 
small  lakes,  one  of  them  lately  become  known  as  Lake  Chenowagesic  ;  and  this 
is  probably  to  be  considered  the  main  course  of  the  river  we  are  now  on.  The 
other  fork  comes  from  the  "west ;  if  we  follow  it  up  we  proceed  directly  toward 
Lake  Itasca,  and  find  our  stream  heading  in  a  lake  which  occupies  portions  of 
Sects.  2  i\nd  ir,  T.  143,  R.  35.  This  is  Lake  Assawa — Ossowa  and  Usawa  of 
Schoolcra^'t,  Usaw-way  or  Perch  of  Allen,  Assawe  of  Nicollet ;  also,  Lake  Alice 
of  the  Rand-McNally  map  (Chicago,  1894),  whose  compilers  adopted  the 
names  bestowed  by  a  certain  unfortunate  excursionist.  Another  name  this 
unhappy  person  gave  this  same  lake  is  Elvira.  It  is  historically  of  the  greatest 
possible  interest,  for  from  Lake  Assawa  did  Schoolcraft's  party  proceed  by  jiort- 
age  to  discover  Lake  Itasca  in  1832,  and  from  it  also  did  Nicollet  proceed  by 
portage  to  Lake  Itar  ;a  in  1836,  and  so  on  to  discover  the  actual  source  of  the 
Mississippi,  which  Schoolcraft  missed  in  his  hurry  on  that  happy-go-lucky  13th 
of  July.  As  to  the  name  which  the  whole  stream  thus  sketched  should  bear, 
there  may  be  two  opinions.  Schoolcraft  maps  it  with  the  legend  "  Plantagenian 
or  South  Fork  of  the  Mississippi,"  and  makes  the  Assawa  Lake  fork  the  main 
source,  calling  the  Naiwa  Lake  fork  by  the  name  of  this  lake.  Nicollet  names 
the  main  stream  R.  Laplace,  after  the  celebrated  astronomer,  as  he  did  L. 
Bowditch  after  the  translator  of  that  author's  Mecanique  Celeste  ;  and  he  con- 
siders the  main  stream  to  be  that  middle  one  which  comes  from  the  Chenowa- 
gesic 1.,  furthest  from  the  S.  (over  the  border  of  Hubbard  Co.,  in  fact).  This 
view  is  undoubtedly  correct,  and  I,  for  one,  should  like  to  see  Nicollet's  desig- 
nation of  Laplace  r.  stand.  But  the  river  is  in  fact  called  the  Naiwa,  and  this 
current  designation  will  probably  prevail.  I  observe  that  our  best  maps  in  tlie 
present  uncertainty  omit  any  name,  though  the  Rand-McNally  map  legends 
"  Schoolcraft  R."  (after  Eastman's,  1855).  Should  the  main  stream  come  to  be 
known  to  geographers  as  the  Naiwa,  I  would  suggest  that  its  E.  fork  be  called 
the  East  Naiwa,  agreeably  with  Schoolcraft's,  1832;  and  the  other  the  West  Naiwa. 
We  return  from  this  excursion  up  the  Naiwa  or  Laplace  r. — the  Plantagenian 
source  of  the  Mississippi — and  proceed  up  the  latter  from  the  mouth  of  the 
former.  We  hold  a  due  W.  course  on  the  whole  for  5^  m.  in  an  air-line,  but 
on  a  zigzag  with  multitudinous  minor  tortuosities,  making  the  distance  more 
than  twice  as  far  ;  part  of  the  way  winding  among  wooded  points,  working  our 
way  over  shoals  and  among  snags,  to  a  point  in  the  N.  W.  }^  of  Sect.  28,  T.  146, 
R.  34.  Here  the  small  Allenoga  r.,  on  our  right  from  the  north,  discharges  from 
a  small,  crooked  lake  which  lies  mainly  in  Sects.  16  and  21.  Knowing  no  name 
for  this,  I  call  it  Cowhorn  1.,  from  its  shape  and  from  the  trivial  circumstance  of 
finding  a  horn  stuck  on  a  stake  in  the  river.  We  go  on  through  a  monotonous, 
swampy  tract  of  reeds,  rushes,  wild  rice,  and  lily-pads,  alternately  approadiing 
and  receding  from  tamarac  clumps  as  the  river  winds  about,  for  2|4  m.  further 
W.  in  an  air-line,  and  more  than  three  times  that  distance  in  actual  paddling,  till 
we  reach  some  haying-meadows,  and  soon  find  the  entrance  of  a  notable  stream 


5  about 

out  3  m. 
lumber  of 
;  and  this 
on.     The 
tly  toward 
)ortions  of 
Usawa  of 
L^ake  Alice 
lopted   the 
name  this 
le  greattrit 
ed  by  port- 
proceed  by 
urce  of  the 
-lucky  13th 
hould  bear, 
lantagenian 
rk  the  main 
lollet  names 
i  he  did  L. 
and  he  con- 
le  Chenowa- 
fact).     This 
oUet's  desig- 
wa,  and  this 
maps  in  the 
nap   legends 
come  to  be 
nrk  be  called 
West  Naiwa. 
Plantagenian 
louth  of  the 
air-line,  but 
stance  m(jre 
working  our 
28,  T.  146. 
;harges  from 
ing  no  name 
jumstancc  of 
monotonous, 
approaching 
4  m.  further 
paddling,  till 
)table  stream 


A  CANOE  VOYAGE  TO  LAKE  ITASCA.  1 63 

2^   from  the  porth  side  to  a  large  point.    This  may  be 

on  our  right,  in  the  N.  E.  ^  of  Sect.  25,  T.  146,  R.  35  ;  this  is  Pinidiwin  r. 
(Pinnidiwin,  Carnage,  and  De  Soto  r.  of  Schoolcraft,  Piniddiwin  of  Brower), 
through  a  lake  about  a  mile  wide,  filled  with  a  fine  crop  of  wild  rice. 
Hence  it  is  one  of  many  lakes  which  are  called  La  Folle,  Rice,  or  Manomin 
(Monomina  on  the  Rand-McNally  map) ;  but  it  had  better  keep  the  distinctive 
name  of  the  river  which  flows  through  it.  I  paddled  up  into  Pinidiwin  1.,  and 
was  surprised  at  the  volume  of  waier  it  discharged,  as  well  as  at  the  strength 
of  its  current.  But  the  river  is  a  large,  forked  stream  which  drains  a  very  exten- 
sive area  N.  of  the  Mississippi.  The  volume  of  the  Mississippi  seemed  dimin- 
ished nearly  one-half  above  the  mouth  of  this  "  Little  Mississippi."  The  course 
up  the  Mississippi  is  now  S.  W.  to  a  point  in  the  S.  E.  ^  of  .Sect.  35,  T.  146,  R. 
35 ;  where,  at  a  bend,  it  receives  a  sizable  tributary  from  the  S.  Nicollet  charts 
this  stream,  but  has  no  name  for  it,  and  I  know  of  none,  excepting  that  suspicious 
"  Hennepin  R."  which  appears  on  the  same  Rand-McNally  map,  so  thoroughly 
vitiated  by  countenancing  the  names  given  by  a  dishonest  person.  Hennepin  r. 
rises  as  far  south  as  about  the  middle  of  T.  144,  R.  35,  and  flows  nearly  due 
northward  ;  one  of  its  tributaries  comes  from  a  certain  Lake  Joliet,  the  name  of 
which  arose  with  the  same  trickster.  Rounding  the  bend  here  we  go  up  N.  W. 
into  the  middle  of  Sect.  28,  T.  146,  R.  35,  and  turn  S.  W.  to  the  corner  of  this 
section,  on  the  property  of  Mr.  A.  J.  Jones,  a  bona  fide  settler  and  cultivator  of  tlie 
soil.  The  situation  is  also  marked  by  a  small  creek  (say  Jones')  which  falls  in 
hard  by  from  the  VV.;  but  it  is  more  notable  as  a  sort  of  "Great  Bend"  of  the 
Mississippi  ;  for  here  is  the  place  where,  our  course  thus  far  having  been  on  the 
whole  westward,  we  turn  quite  abruptly  southward  to  make  for  Lake  Itasca, 
distant  about  14  m.  as  the  crow  flies,  but  at  least  twice  as  far  as  that  by  the  way 
we  paddle.  It  has  been  good  flat  water,  with  no  obstructions  to  speak  of,  for 
many  miles  back  ;  but  a  little  distance  above  Jones'  place  we  come  to  rocky 
rapids  for  half  a  mile,  reminding  us  of  our  experiences  below  Lake  Bemidji.  I 
do  not  think  that  these,  but  that  some  of  those  higher  up,  are  the  rapids  where 
Allen's  boat  was  wrecked  on  the  15th  of  July,  1832,  though  Schoolcraft 
talks  of  having  come  "32"  m.  from  Itasca  on  the  14th,  before  the  accident. 
As  we  proceed,  other  obstacles  offer  ;  snags  abound,  the  Mississippi  becomes  in 
places  too  shallow  to  float  a  canoe,  and  in  others  bushes  begin  to  meet  across 
the  channel,  or  fallen  logs  require  to  be  chopped  out  of  the  way.  We  pass  an 
insignificant  creek  on  the  right,  and  then  soon  sight  quite  an  imposing  pine-clad 
ridge  on  the  left.  Here,  in  the  S.  W.  %  of  Sect.  19,  T.  145,  R.  35,  is  the 
mouth  of  a  creek  on  the  left.  This  is  marked  on  Schoolcraft's  map  "  Cano  R.," 
i.e.,  Canot  or  Canoe  r.,  also  Ocano  (Au  Canot),  and  Chemaun  r.  It  is  charted 
by  Nicollet,  without  any  name.  It  has  been  described  by  Brower  as  Andrus  cr. , 
is  on  Eastman's  map  (1855)  as  De  Witt  Clinton's  r.,  and  was  once  named  La 
Salle  r.  by  an  unscrupulous  person.  Above  Andrus  cr.,  in  the  S.  E.  %  of  Sect. 
26  of  the  tp.  last  said,  a  small  creek  comes  in  on  the  right,  at  "  Dutch  Fred's  " 
place.  I  heard  a  man  call  it  Bear  cr.  Here  the  Mississippi  enters  (or  rather 
leaves)  a  haying-meadow,  and  within  a  mile  receives  a  small  creek  on  our  left, 


m 
r 


164 


A  CANOE  VOYAGE  TO  LAKE  ITASCA. 


called  the  upper  source  of  the  Mississippi,  being  15  miles 
above  Little  Lake  Winipie  [/.  e.,  Lake  Winnibigoshish] ; 

from  the  S. ,  locally  known  as  Killpecker  or  Chillpecker  cr.  It  is  less  than  a 
mile  hence  to  the  house  of  one  Searles,  in  the  S.  W.  %  of  Sect.  35,  T.  145,  R. 
35.  There  is  still  visible  evidence  that  this  was  the  site  of  an  old  trading-post ; 
and  on  discussing  the  case  with  my  friend  Brower,  I  agreed  with  his  conclusion 
that  it  was  most  probably  the  very  spot  we  hear  of  from  William  Morrison,  who 
was  the  first  known  of  white  men  at  Lake  Itasca,  in  1804.  From  this  place  up- 
ward to  Lake  Itasca  the  Mississippi  is  practically  unnavigable,  at  least  in  such  a 
low  stage  of  water  as  that  I  found — not  so  much  on  account  of  the  extensive 
rapids  as  from  snags  and  brush.  The  distance  is  called  20  m. — even  25  m.,  if 
one  wants  you  to  hire  his  wagon — but  it  is  nothing  of  the  sort ;  12  m.  would 
cover  it.  The  air-line  from  Searles'  house  to  Itasca  is  just  6  ni.,  and  though 
the  river  is  tortuous,  besides  having  a  general  westward  curve,  it  can  hardly 
be  more  than  twice  as  much.  One  creek  on  this  course,  called  Division  cr. 
by  Brower,  falls  in  from  the  W.  in  the  S.  W.  %  of  Sect.  27,  T.  144,  R.  36. 
A  wagon-road  leads  from  Searles'  due  S.  to  the  lower  end  of  the  N.  arm  of 
Lake  Itasca.  The  distance  is  about  7  m.  by  this  road,  which  keeps  on  the  ridge 
E.  of  the  Mississippi  till  it  ends  at  the  lake,  close  by  the  outlet,  in  the  S.  W.  \{ 
of  Sect.  35,  T.  144,  R.  36,  thus  almost  on  the  line  between  T.  144  and  T. 
143,  which  cuts  the  end  of  the  N.  arm,  and  forms  the  N.  boundary  of  Ita^ca 
State  Park.  Here  Brower  discovered  the  site  of  a  prehistoric  vilLige  in 
Oct.,  1894. 

This  park,  created  by  Act  of  the  Minnesota  Legislature,  approved  Ajir. 
20th,  1891,  is  7  m.  N.  and  S.  by  5  m.  E.  and  W.,  thus  being  35  square  miles, 
ig,-joiyj  acres,  consisting  of  Sects.  I,  2,  3,  4,  9,  10,  11,  12,  13,  14,  15, 
16,  21,  22,  23,  24,  25,  26,  27,  28,  33,  34,  35,  36,  of  T.  143,  R.  36,  in 
Beltrami  Co.,  with  Sects,  i,  2,  3,  4,  of  T.  142,  R.  36,  in  Becker  Co., 
Sects.  6,  7,  18,  19,  30,  31,  of  T.  143,  R.  35,  and  Sect.  6,  of  T,  142,  R.  35— 
these  in  Hubbard  Co.  The  rectangle  thus  delimited  includes  nearly  all  the 
natural  features  about  to  be  noted,  in  the  area  designated  as  the  ultimate  reser- 
voir bowl  of  the  Mississippi  by  Brower,  to  whose  admirable  official  report  I  am 
indebted  for  some  particulars  which  did  not  come  under  my  personal  observation 
on  the  spot,  Aug.  24th  and  25th,  1894.  The  brim  of  the  bowl  is  the  Height  of 
Land,  Nicollet's  Hauteurs  des  Terres,  sc.  between  Hudsonian  and  Mexican 
waters  ;  for  all  the  water  in  the  bowl  runs  into  the  Mississippi.  The  political 
boundary  of  the  park  is  less  than  conterminous  with  the  area  of  this  bowl.  The 
latter  is  conveniently  divided  into  the  greater  and  lesser  segments,  according 
to  whether  the  waters  drain  into  the  W.  or  the  E.  arm  of  Lake  Itasca ;  the 
greater  segment  contains  the  primal  sources  of  the  Mississippi.  The  brim  of 
the  bowl  has  a  maximum  elevation  of  1,750  feet  above  sea-level.  The  southern- 
most lake  in  the  bowl  is  Brower's  Hernando  de  Soto,  supposed  to  be  2,555^4  m. 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  at  an  altitude  of  1,558  feet.  Another  is  Morrison  I. 
There  are  too  many  other  small  lakes  to  mention,  mostly  beyond  or  beside 
any  actual  permanent  surface  connection  with  the  Mississippian  stream  ;  two 


A  CANOE  VOYAGE  TO  LAKE  ITASCA. 


165 


II 


5  miles 
shish] ; 

ess  than  a 

".  145.  R- 

ling-post ; 
:onclusiou 
rison,  who 
;  place  up- 
tin  such  a 
I  extensive 
I  25  m.,if 
!  m.  would 
aind  though 
can  hardly 
)ivision  cr. 
144,  R.  36- 
N.  arm  of 
Dn  the  ridge 
le  S.  W.  H 
[44  and  '1". 
ry  of   Iia^ca 
village    in 

>rovert  Apr. 

juare  miles, 

13,   14.  '5, 

R.  36.  in 

lecker  Co., 

[42,  R.  35- 
parly  all  the 
[imate  reser- 
report  I  am 
.  observation 
le  Height  of 
Mexican 
'he  political 
I  bowl.     The 
[s,  according 
Itasca ;  the 
"he  brim  of 
[he  southern- 
2,555^4' >". 
Morrison  1. 
id  or  beside 
stream  ;  two 


and  the  extent  of  canoe  navigation  only  two  leagues  to  some 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  waters. 

little  ones  which  come  very  near  to  such  connection  are  Whipple  and  Floating 
Moss.  The  Mississippi  springs  from  the  ground  under  a  hill  which  I  call  the 
Verumontanum  ;  the  first  collection  of  living  waters,  or  what  may  be  termed 
Fons  et  Origo  Springs,  occurs  about  the  contiguous  comers  of  Sects.  xJiH-  T.  143, 
R.  36.  The  rill  which  issues  thence  runs  northward  in  Sects.  27  and  28,  collecting 
there  in  a  pool  worthily  named  by  Brower  the  Upper  Nicollet  1.,  after  the  keen- 
eyed  geographer  who  first  spied  and  mapped  it  in  connection  with  his  immortal 
discovery  of  the  Mississippian  Verum  Caput.  But  this  Lacus  Superior  NicoUeti 
is  not  now  connected  by  surface  flowage  with  the  continuation  of  the  Mississippi ; 
Brower  is  correct  in  designating  its  feeder  as  the  "  detached  upper  fork"  of  the 
Mississippi ;  for  the  Upper  Nicollet  1.  is  separated  by  a  dry  ridge  a  few  yards 
wide,  forming  a  sort  of  "  natural  bridge,"  under  or  through  which  water  seeps, 
but  over  which  it  certainly  never  flows.  Stepping  a  few  paces  over  this  Pons 
Naturalis,  we  descend  into  a  boggy  place  where  the  several  Nicollet  Springs 
issue  from  the  ground  and  form  a  rill  whose  waters  are  continuous  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  If  one  wishes  to  "  cover"  the  Mississippi  in  any  sense,  one  may  do 
so  literally  here,  where  the  river  is  a  few  inches  wide  and  fewer  deep,  by  lying 
at  full  length  on  both  sides  of  the  stream  and  drinking  out  of  the  channel.  This 
rivulet  is  the  principal  feeder  of  the  Middle  Nicollet  1.,  which  is  of  oval  figure, 
less  than  J^  of  a  mile  long,  lying  chiefly  in  the  S.  E.  ^of  Sect.  21.  The  outlet 
of  this  lake  is  close  to  the  inlet,  by  a  well-defined  stream  say  y^  ol  a.  mile  long, 
which  starts  W.,  receives  a  small  tributary  called  Howard  cr.  from  the  S..  and 
then  curves  N.  into  the  Lower  Nicollet  1.,  J4  m.  E.  of  the  Middle  1.  This  is 
in  size  between  the  Upper  and  Middle  lakes ;  it  receives  two  rills,  one  of  them 
called  Spring  Ridge  cr.;  the  Mississippi  issues  from  the  N.  end  of  this  lake,  and 
thence  pursues  a  general  N.  E.  course  for  about  J^  of  a  mile  in  an  air-line, 
thoLgh  crool.  jdly  and  with  several  small  bends,  to  fall  into  the  head  of  the  W. 
arm  of  Lake  Itasca,  in  the  S.  W.  ^  of  Sect.  15.  On  its  way  it  receives 
Deniaray  cr.  from  the  W.  Thus  is  constituted,  entirely  above  or  S.  of  Lake 
Itasca,  the  Infant  Mississippi,  discovered  by  Nicollet  in  1836,  an-^  by  him  poeti- 
cally styled  the  Cradled  Hercules.  The  cradle  is  now  known  as  Nicollet  valley  ; 
it  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Hauteurs  des  Terres,  now  Nicollet  Heights,  and 
on  the  E.  by  a  long,  curved,  and  somewhat  broken  ridge,  which  I  propose  to 
call  Brower  Ridge,  after  the  accomplished  gentleman  whose  name  will  always  be 
associated  with  the  history  and  geography  of  the  Itasca  basin.  This  ridge  is  the 
best  walking  from  Itasca  toward  the  Fons  et  Origo  Springs — though  in  the  pres- 
ent state  of  the  ground  this  is  not  saying  much  in  its  favor,  yet  this  way  is  less 
laborious  than  following  up  the  Infant  Mississippi.  The  N.  end  of  the  ridge 
rises  on  Morrison  hill,  which  overlooks  Itasca  on  the  one  hand  and  on  the  other 
gives  a  fine  view  of  Elk  1. ;  it  is  only  a  few  steps  down  to  either  lake  from  the 
summit,  where  stands  the  Brower  post  of  1887  with  its  historical  inscription,  a 
sign-board  commemorating  Nicollet,  and  a  granite  bowlder  more  durably  graven 
with  a  less  enduring  name  (not  Glazier).     Elk  1.  is  the  largest  body  of  water  in  the 


II 


I 


.;»-«^' 


i66 


A  CANOE  VOYAGE  TO  LAKE  ITASCA. 


iii! 


sIV 


Feb.  ijth.     Were  favored  with  a  beautiful  day.    Took  the 
latitude,  and  found  it  to  be  47"  42'  40"  N.     At  this  place  it 

bowl  after  Itasca,  being  of  irregular  oval  figure,  about  i  m.  long  by  two-thirds  as 
broad.  It  lies  almost  entirely  in  Sect.  22,  immediately  S.  of  the  head  of  the  W. 
arm  of  Itasca,  and  thus  alongside  the  Herculean  Incunabula,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  Brower  Ridge.  Elk  1.  has  the  bad  luck  of  a  bad  name,  with  the 
more  serious  misfortune  of  a  vainglorious  record  of  "exploitation."  In  the 
first  place  the  name — with  due  deference  to  Gen.  J.  H.  Baker,  who  in  1876 
caused  "  Elk"  to  become  official  on  the  plot  of  T.  143,  R.  36— seems  to  nic 
badly  chosen.  For  "Elk"  was  originally  the  English  name  of  Lake  Itasca, 
translating  F.  Lac  la  Biche,  and  Chippewa  Omoshkos  Sogiagon-;  so  its  trans- 
fer to  the  smaller  lake  is  liable  to  create  confusion.  Better  Giliillan's  Lake 
Breck,  1881,  or  Chippewa  Gagiwitadinag  (embosomed  in  hills).  In  the  second 
place  a  certain  unworthy  person  magnified  the  size  of  this  lake,  stretched  out  its 
principal  feeder  southward,  lengthened,  widened,  and  deepened  its  discharge 
into  Itasca,  labeled  it  Lake  Glazier,  and  trumpeted  his  false  claim  of  discovering 
the  one  and  only  true  source  of  the  Mississippi,  to  the  scandal  of  geographical 
societies  and  other  learned  bodies.  The  best  mot  I  ever  heard  or  this  subject 
was  given  me  by  a  native  of  Deer  River,  whose  remark,  however, '  withheld,  on 
the  well-known  principle  that "  the  greater  the  truth  the  greater  the  libel."  Elkl. 
was  well  described  in  1872  by  Julius  Chambers,  who  called  it  Lake  Dolly  Var- 
den  ;  its  discharge  into  Itasca  is  now  known  as  Chambers'  cr.  This  is  a  small 
side-stream  about  333  yards  long,  in  the  bed  of  which  I  walked  dry-shod,  yet 
which  has  been  exploited  as  the  course  of  the  Mississippi.  Elk  1.  has  several 
feeders,  among  them  three  creeks  called  Elk,  Siegfried,  and  Gaygwedosay— the 
latter  for  Nicollet's  guide  of  1836,  whom  Nicollet  calls  Kegwedzissag.  All  tiie 
features  thus  far  noted  are  in  the  greater  ultimate  reservoir  bowl,  in  relation 
with  the  W.  arm  of  Lake  Itasca.  Turning  to  the  lesser  part  of  the  bowl, 
whose  waters  drain  into  the  E.  arm,  we  find  a  chain  of  small  lakes,  whose 
names  from  S.  to  N.  are  Josephine,  Ako,  Danger,  Twin,  and  Mary — the  last 
having  continuous  surface  flow  by  Mary  cr.  into  the  head  of  the  E.  arm.  Such, 
in  brief,  are  the  main  features  of  the  Mississippian  waters  which  drain  from  the  S. 
into  Lake  Itasca  ;  but  I  suppose  there  are  a  hundred  little  lakes  or  pools  in  the 
bowl,  which  seep  through  the  bibulous  soil — in  fact,  this  flowing  bowl  is  full  of 
lees.  The  largest  lake,  which  forms  its  strongest  feature,  is  of  a  three-pronged  or 
triradiate  figure — mostly  arms,  with  little  body,  like  a  star-fish.  It  is  said  that 
the  early  name  refers  to  the  head  and  antlers  of  the  elk,  respectively  represented 
by  the  three  projections.  There  is  not  very  much  difference  in  size  and  shajie 
between  them,  though  each  has  its  particular  form.  Where  the  three  prongs 
come  together  as  the  main  body  of  this  lake  is  the  small  but  picturesque  School- 
craft isl.,  where  the  party  of  1832  camped  July  13th,  as  Nicollet  did  in  Aug.,  1S36 ; 
it  is  decidedly  the  most  eligible  spot  for  the  purpose,  before  making  one's  periplus 
of  the  lake.  The  island  is  in  Sect.  11,  T.  143,  R.  36  ;  its  absolute  position  has 
been  dead-reckoned  by  Mr.  A.  J.  Hill  to  be  lat.  47"  13'  10"  N.,  long.  95°  12' 
W.     Mr.  Brower  has  this  summer  (1894)  set  up  a  very  stanch  oaken  comnieni- 


iiiil'ifev 


A  CANOE  VOYAGE  TO  LAKE  ITASCA. 


167 


rook  the 
;  place  it 

wo-thirds  as 
idof  theW. 
1  which  it  is 
ne,  with  the 
n."     In  the 
who  in  1S76 
leems  to  nic 
Lake  Itasca, 
so  its  trans- 
ifillan's  Lake 
n  the  second 
etched  out  its 
its  discharge 
of  discovering 
geographical 
t   this  subject 
withiield,  on 
UbeL"    Elkl. 
ke  Dolly  Var- 
"his  is  a  small 
[  dry-shod,  yet 
1.  has  several 
wedosay— the 
issag.     AH  the 
kvl,  in  relation 
of  the  bowl, 
[1  lakes,  whose 
ilary— the  last 
arm.     Such, 
rain  from  the  S. 
or  pools  ill  the 
bowl  is  full  of 
iree-pronged  or 
It  is  said  that 
;ly  represented 
size  and  sh;ipe 
|e  three  prongs 
iresque  School- 
in  Aug.,  1S36 1 
_  one's  peripUis 
lie  position  has 
,  long.  95°  '2' 
iken  comniem- 


was  that  Mr.  Thompson '  made  his  observations  in  1798, 
from  which  he  determined  that  the  source  of  the  Mississippi 

oration  post,  which  bears  a  suitable  legend  and  looks  as  if  it  might  stand  for  a 
century.  The  island  was  named  by  Allen  (Rep.,  p.  332).  Near  it  is  a  shallow 
place  called  Rocky  Shoal.  The  lake  is  2H  ™-  '"  greatest  length  from  the  end 
of  the  N.  to  that  of  the  E.  arm  ;  the  ends  of  the  E.  and  W.  aims  are  2%  m. 
apart.  The  W.  arm  is  marked  ofl  by  Ozawindib  pt.,  the  E.  arm  by  Bearpt., 
and  Turnbull  pt.  projects  into  the  latter  arm  about  opposite  the  place  where 
Nicollet  struck  the  lake  in  portaging  over  from  Lake  Assawa.  The  best  view 
of  the  lake  is  to  be  had  from  Rhodes'  Hill,  near  the  base  of  the  E.  arm.  Itasca 
has  several  feeders  besides  Mary  cr.,  Chambers'  cr.,  and  the  Infant  Mississippi  ; 
four  of  these  are  Island  cr.,  from  the  W.,  opposite  Schoolcraft  isl.;  Floating 
Bog  cr.,  falling  in  by  Bear  pt.;  Boutwell  cr.,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  W.  arm  ; 
and  Shawinukumag  cr.,  a  little  rill  close  by  the  mouth  of  the  Infant.  There  is 
one  point  about  the  lake  I  wish  to  signalize  by  the  name  of  Point  Hill,  after 
my  esteemed  friend,  Mr.  Alfred  J.  Hill  of  St.  Paul.  When  you  come  to  the  N. 
end  of  the  N.  arm,  at  the  usual  landing  or  embarking  place,  where  McMullen's 
house  stands,  your  view  of  Schoolcraft  isl.,  as  you  look  southward  up  the  N.  arm, 
is  intercepted  by  a  promontory  from  the  W.  side,  near  the  center  of  Sect.  2, 
T.  143,  R.  36  ;  this  is  Point  Hill.  The  altitude  of  Lake  Itasca  is  given  by 
Brotver  as  1,457  feet  ;  its  distance  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  by  the  channel  of 
the  Mississippi,  is  probably  about  2,550  m. — by  no  means  those  "3,184"  m. 
which  the  Rand-McNally  map  exploits.  The  general  situation  is  :  150  m.  \V. 
of  Lake  Superior  ;  125  m.  S.  from  the  N.  border  of  Minnesota  ;  75  m.  E.  from 
the  W.  nd  252  m.  N.  from  the  S.  Vorder  of  the  same.  The  lake  is  reached 
from  St.  'aul  by  240  m.  overland  ;  take  the  G.  N.  R.  R.  to  Park  Rapids,  and  go 
thence  in  one  day  by  wagon.  The  distance  from  St.  F'aul  by  the  Mississippi  is 
said  to  be  560  m.;  it  is  practically  out  of  the  question  as  a  route,  because  of 
obstructions  to  navigation,  especially  by  logging-booms.  A  much  easier  way 
than  I  selected  for  my  own  excursion  is,  as  just  said,  to  the  lake  by  rail  and  wagon, 
thence  down  the  Mississippi  by  canoe  or  skiff  to  Deer  River  or  Grand  Rapids, 
where  you  strike  the  D.  and  W.  R.  R.,  or  even  down  to  Brainerd,  where  the 
X.  P.  R.  R.  crosses.  The  names  most  prominently  associated  with  discovery 
and  exploration  in  the  Itasca  basin  are  ;  William  Morrison,  1804  ;  Henry  R. 
Schoolcraft  and  James  Allen,  1832  ;  Jean  N.  Nicollet,  1836  ;  Julius  Chambers, 
1872  ;  James  H.  Baker  and  Edwin  S.  Hall,  1875  ;  Hopewell  Clarke,  188O  ; 
J.  V.  Rrower,  1889-94.  A  more  extended  historical  note  will  be  found  beyond  ; 
meanwhile  let  us  return  to  Pike,  at  the  mouth  of  Turtle  r. ,  on  Cass  1. 

'  David  Thompson,  the  great  explorer  and  surveyor,  b.  St.  John's  parish, 
Westminster,  Eng.,  Apr.  30th,  1770,  d.  Longueuil,  opposite  Montreal,  Canada, 
Feb.  i6th,  1857,  and  now  with  his  wife  in  Mt.  Royal  cemetery.  His  activities 
compassed  half  a  century,  say  1790-1840,  during  some  of  which  years  he  seems 
to  Iiave  been  almost  ubiquitous — so  extensive  were  his  travels,  in  the  service  of 
the  H.  B.  Co.,  N.  W.  Co.,  and  on  professional  duties  in  connection  with  the 
survey  of  the  boundary  between  the  British  possessions  and  the  United  States. 


'1 


1 


1 


i'-i 


1 68 


DAVID  THOMPSON. 


mni^' 


was  in  47°  38'.  I  walked  about  three  miles  back  in  the 
country,  at  two-thirds  water.  One  of  our  men  marched  to 
Lake  VVinepie  [/.  f.,  Lake  Winnibigoshish]  and  returned  by 
one  o'clock,  for  the  stem  of  the  Sweet's  pipe,  a  matter  of 

Mr.  Thompso.i  was  a  good  practical  astronomer  and  an  admirable  geographer. 
Some  of  his  determinations  would  not  easily  be  surpassed  in  accuracy  by  the 
best  modem  methods.  He  was  also  an  assiduous  journalist,  and  a  good 
draughtsman  ;  but  most  of  his  work  has  never  seen  the  light.  The  manuscri])ts 
which  he  left  are  believed  to  cover  the  long  period  of  years  during  which  lie 
traveled  and  observed  ;  and  to  include  not  only  his  personal  narrative,  but 
also  the  mathematical  tables  by  which  his  astronomical  observations  were 
worked  out  for  the  determination  of  latitude  and  longitude.  They  have  more 
than  once  been  drawn  upon  for  historical  and  geographical  data  ;  but  no 
publication  of  such  a  thorough  digest  of  Thompson's  life  and  work  as  could 
have  been  prepared  from  these  materials  under  competent  and  critical  editor- 
ship has  ever  been  made.  A  brief  recital  of  his  journeys  was  read  by  J.  H. 
Tyrrell,  B.  A.,  etc.,  before  the  Canadian  Institute,  Mar.  3d,  1888,  and  pub- 
lished  that  year,  Toronto,  8vo.,  pp.  28.  The  ofTicial  records  I  have  mentioned 
must  not  be  confounded  with  certain  fragments  of  Thompson's  MSS.,  now 
the  property  of  a  Mr.  Charles  Lindsey  of  Toronto,  and  recently  offered  for  sale. 
These  are  about  600  foolscap  pp.  in  Thompson's  handwriting,  drawn  up  very 
late  in  life — being  thus  by  no  means  his  original  journals  and  field  note-books. 
Thompson  was  on  the  Missouri  at  the  Mandan  villages  Dec.  29th,  I797-Jan. 
loth,  1798 — thus  before  Lewis  and  Clark,  Oct.  27th,  i804-Apr.  7th,  1805,  and 
the  younger  Alexander  Henry,  July  and  Aug.,  1806.  While  here  he  undertook 
to  determine  from  Indian  information  the  source  of  the  Yellowstone  r.,  .ind 
made  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  computations  on  record  ;  for  his  figures 
agree  within  20  m.  or  less  with  the  true  latitude  and  longitude.  Thompson  was 
the  first  white  man  who  ever  descended  the  Columbia  r.  from  its  head-waters  to 
the  point  where  Lewis  and  Clark  struck  it,  Oct.  i6th,  1806;  this  voyage  was 
made  in  the  summer  of  1811,  and  protracted  to  the  Pacific  at  Astoria.  That 
journey  to  which  Pike  refers  was  made  in  1798.  Thompson  came  down  the 
Turtle  River  route  to  Cass  1.,  late  in  April,  and  stopped  at  John  Sayers'  house, 
located  by  him  in  lat.  47'  27'  56"  N.  and  long.  95"  W.  If  we  marvel  why  such 
a  man  as  Thompson  missed  the  honor  of  discovering  the  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, when  that  prize  was  so  near  at  hand,  we  may  remember  that  the  Turtle 
River  head-waters  were  already  the  accented  source,  as  being  the  furthest  N.  l.eav- 
ing  Cass  1.  May  3d,  Thompson  des  .naed  the  Mississippi  through  Lake  Win- 
nibigoshish, and  so  on  to  the  N.  W.  Co.  house  at  Sandy  1. ;  thence  he  went  up 
Prairie  or  Savanna  r.,  the  usual  traders'  route,  portaged  over  to  waters  of  the 
St.  Louis,  and  descended  this  river  to  the  Fond  du  Lac  house,  which  stood  2]i 
m.  from  Lake  Superior.  This  journey  was  from  the  post  on  the  Assiniboine  r., 
at  the  mouth  of  Souris  or  Mouse  r. ,  which  he  left  Feb.  25th  ;  he  reached  Fond 
du  Lac  May  loth,  or  in  2  months  and  18  days. 


k  in  the 
rched  to 
irned  by 
latter  of 

geographer, 
racy  by  the 
»nd   a  good 
manuscripts 
ig  which  he 
irrative,  but 
nations  were 
;y  have  more 
ata  ;    but  no 
^ork  as  couUl 
ritical  eiiitor- 
read  by  J.  B. 
,88,  and  pub- 
ive  mentioned 
s  MSS.,  now 
ered  for  sale. 
Irawn  up  very 
Id  note-bociks. 
Lth,  1797-Jan- 
?th,  1805,  and 
he  undertook 
vstone  r.,  and 
for  his  figures 
hompson  was 
head-waters  to 
is  voyage  was 
Astoria.     Tliat 
ame  down  the 
aayers'  house, 
irvel  why  such 
of  the  Missis- 
hat  the  Turtle 
thestN.  leav- 
igh  Lake  Win- 
ce he  went  up 
waters  of  the 
lich  stood  2}j 
Assiniboine  r., 
reached  Fond 


RETURN  TO  LEECH  LAKE— ROY— FLAT  MOUTH.   169 

more  consequence  in  his  affairs  with  the  Sioux  than  the 
diploma  of  many  an  ambassador.  We  feasted  on  whitefish 
[Corcgonus  sp.],  roasted  on  two  iron  grates  fixed  horizon- 
tally in  the  back  of  the  chimney ;  the  entrails  left  in  the 
fish. 

Feb.  I4.th.  Left  the  house  at  nine  o'clock.  It  becomes 
me  here  to  do  justice  to  the  hospitality  of  our  hosts :  one 
Roy,  a  Canadian,  and  his  wife,  a  Chipeway  squaw.  They 
relinquished  for  our  use  the  only  thing  in  the  house  that 
could  be  called  a  bed,  attended  us  like  servants,  nor  could 
either  of  them  be  persuaded  to  touch  a  mouthful  until  we 
had  finished  our  repasts.  We  made  the  [Leech  Lakel  gar- 
rison about  sundown,  having  been  drawn  at  least  10  miles 
in  a  sleigh  by  two  small  dogs.  They  were  loaded  with  2(X) 
pounds,  and  went  so  fast  as  to  render  it  difficult  for  the  men 
with  snowshoes  to  keep  up  with  them.  The  chiefs  asked 
my  permission  to  dance  the  calumet-dance,  which  I  granted. 

Feb.  isth.    The  Flat  Mouth,'"  chief  of  the  Leech  Lake 

">  This  most  celebrated  chief  of  the  Leech  Lake  Chippewas,  or  Pillagers,  had 
three  names,  whose  several  variants  number  probably  three  dozen.  One  of  them 
may  be  written  Ask  a  Buggy  Cuss — for  if  that  is  not  right,  it  is  as  near  right  as 
some  others,  and  easier  to  say  than  any  of  the  rest.  It  is  the  rule  that  the  name 
is  different  with  everyone  who  uses  it,  and  it  often  varies  with  the  same  author 
whose  "takes"  fall  into  the  hands  of  different  compositors.  Some  of  the 
forms  I  have  noted  are  :  Aishkibugikozsh  ;  Aishkabugakosh  ;  Eshkibogikoj  ; 
Esquibusicoge  ;  Aishkebugekoshe  and  Eschkebugecoshe  (in  Minn.  Hist.  Coll., 
X.passini);  Eski  Bugeckoge(in  the  French  Pike,  L  p.  220).  The  French  form 
of  the  name  was  Gueule  Platte  ;  and  the  English  of  it  was  Flat  Mouth.  Pike 
spells  the  French  in  half  a  dozen  different  ways,  the  question  of  gender  included 
in  the  variation  ;  while  Schoolcraft,  who  was  something  of  a  linguist,  is  equally 
vagarious  in  this  case,  giving  us  Geulle  Platte,  Gouelle  Platte,  Guelle  Plat, 
Gueulle  Plat,  Guella  Plat— anything  you  please,  except  Gruel  Plate  or  Ghoul 
Plot !  Our  Gallic  friends  themselves  tried  a  variety  of  combinations,  as  gple, 
goiilt,  gtile,  before  they  suited  themselves  with  gueule  as  a  satisfactory  substi- 
tute for  the  Latin  gula — just  as  we  did  before  we  made  guUey  and  gullet  out  of 
the  same  old  Roman  stock.  On  Pike's  folding  Abstract,  the  individual  whose 
mouth,  jaws,  and  throat  are  so  much  in  literary  doubt  figures  as  "Eskibugec- 
koge,  Geuelle  Platte,  Flat  Mouth,  first  chief  of  his  band."  This  was  a  large 
one,  liest  known  as  the  Pillagers,  also  as  Muckundwas,  who  had  long  maintained 
a  separate  tribal  organization.  The  medal  which  Flat  Mouth  had  received  from 
the  British  at  Fort  William  on  Lake  Superior,  and  which  Pike  took  from  him  to 


ii 

If 

'■f  ^■ 

Ir^ 

J. 

I.    li  .'¥ 


\^ 


170 


FLAT  mouth's  BAND  OF  PILLAGERS. 


village,  and  many  other  Indians  arrived.     Received  a  letter 

substitute  an  American  one,  was  replaced  by  a  large  solid  silver  one  given  him 
by  Schoolcraft  July  19th,  1828.  The  latter  author  has  a  long  and  good  account 
of  this  remarkably  brave  and  sensible  Indian,  who  in  1833  seemed  to  be  turned 
of  60  years,  about  5  feet  9  or  10  inches  high,  erect,  but  inclined  to  '.•orpulcncy. 
lie  had  been  on  the  war-path  25  times,  and  had  killed  a  good  many  -lioux  with- 
out ever  receiving  a  wound.  lie  was  a  man  of  great  discernment  and  sound 
judgment,  extensively  and  accurately  informed  upon  all  afTairs  which  concerned 
his  people  or  himself.  There  is  much  said  of  him  in  the  Minnesota  Ilistoricnl 
Collections  from  first  to  last,  especially  in  the  lion.  W.  W,  Warren's  lli-.- 
tory  of  the  Ojibwas,  and  Rev.  E.  D.  Neill's  continuation  of  the  same  subjti  1  : 
see  for  example  pp.  17.  19,  45,  50,  138,  178,  223,  269,  275,  324,  342,  349,  352, 
359,  360,  362,  369,  and  459,  463,  465,  475,  478,  in  Vol.  V.  of  those  Collections. 
He  figured  prominently  in  Anglojibwa  affairs  for  more  than  half  a  century,  and 
was  living  in  1852,  at  a  supposed  age  of  about  78  years,  having  been  born  about 
1774.  The  circumstances  under  which  the  Leech  Lake  Indians  received  the 
names  of  Makandwyinniniwag,  Mukundwais,  or  Muckundwas,  F.  I'illeurs,  K. 
Pillagers,  Plunderers,  and  Robbers,  are  said  in  substance  by  Schoolcraft  t>  he 
these  ;  During  the  period  of  great  irregularities  in  the  fur-trade  consetiuent 
upon  the  transfer  of  the  balance  of  power  from  French  to  English  hands,  wlun 
the  latter  were  still  dependent  in  part  or  entirely  upon  the  former  for  their 
clerks  and  boatmen,  and  these  were  in  great  favor  with  the  Indians,  one  lierii 
came  on  with  goods  and  took  his  station  at  the  mouth  of  Crow-wing  r.  to 
tr.ide  with  the  Chips.  But  he  had  more  to  sell  than  they  could  buy,  inchid- 
ing  guns  and  ammunition  which  he  knew  the  Sioux  would  be  glad  to  get.  The 
Chips.,  however,  forbade  his  thus  arming  their  foes  ;  and  when  he  started  for 
the  Sioux  country,  in  spite  of  their  warnings  and  threats,  they  arrested  him  hy 
force  of  arms,  and  robbed  him  of  all  he  possessed,  though  they  spared  his 
life.  Berti  returned  to  Sandy  1.,  soon  died  of  a  broken  heart,  or  of  the  exer- 
tions he  had  made  to  defend  his  property,  and  was  buried  thereabouts.  Iir. 
Douglass  Houghton  relates  a  curious  story  of  this  trader's  indirect  causation  of  a 
terrible  smallpox  epidemic  that  ravaged  the  Chips.  The  above  occurrences 
were  in  1767-68,  When  the  facts  became  known  to  the  company  at  Mack- 
inac, the  Indians  were  directed  to  make  requital,  with  threats  of  punisiiment 
for  non-compliance.  A  deputation  went  to  Mackinac  in  the  spring  of  1770, 
with  furs  which  were  taken  as  an  equivalent  for  those  which  had  been  stolen, 
and  the  Indians  were  dismissed  with  a  cask  of  liquor  and  a  closely  rolled  flag  as 
a  token  of  friendship.  They  were  enjoined  not  to  broach  the  one  or  unroll  the 
other  till  they  got  home.  But  on  the  way  they  did  both,  and  had  a  drunken 
spree  with  some  of  their  friends  at  Fond  du  Lac.  Several  were  taken  sick, 
some  died,  and  it  was  soon  discovered  that  the  disease  had  broken  out  among 
them.  It  was  spread  broadcast,  and  is  said  to  have  cost  many  hundred  Chip- 
pewa lives  before  its  ravages  ceased.  Whether  rightly  or  wrongly,  the  Indians 
were  always  firmly  persuaded  that  a  dastardly  outrage  had  been  perpetrated 
upon  them  by  the  intentional  communication  to  them  of  the  disease  through  the 


m 


1  a  letter 

given  liim 
)od  nccovinl 
)  be  turned 
'.■orpulency. 
liouxwitli- 
anil  souiul 
1  concerntil 
a  Historical 
irren's  1 1  is- 
tne  subject : 

(2.  349.  352. 
!  Collections. 

century,  and 
n  born  about 
received  the 

rnieurs,  i: . 

lolcraft  t  .  be 
e  conse(|ui'nt 
hands,  wlun 
•mer  for  their 
ins,  one  Dcrti 
w-wing  r.  to 
I  buy,  inchiil- 
to  get.    The 
le  started  for 
■ested  hiin  by 
■y   spareil  his 
of  the  exer- 
labouts.     I^r. 
lausation  of  a 
occurrences 
.ny  at  Mack- 
punishment 
[ring  of  1770. 
been  stolen, 
rolled  tlag  as 
or  unroll  the 
id  a  drunken 
taken  sick, 
m  out  among 
lundred  Chip- 
■,  the  Indians^ 
perpetrated 
le  through  the 


COUNCIL   WITH    LEECH   AND   RED   LAKE  CHIEFS.      I7I 

from  Mr.  M'Gillis."  Noted  down  the  heads  of  my  speech, 
and  had  it  translated  into  French,  in  order  that  the  inter- 
preter should  be  perfectly  master  of  his  subject. 

Sunday,  Feb.  i6th.  Held  a  council  with  the  chiefs  and 
warriors  of  this  place  and  of  Red  Lake  ;  but  it  required 
much  patience,  coolness,  and  management  to  obtain  the 
objects  I  desired,  viz.:  That  they  should  make  peace  with 
the  Sioux  ;  deliver  up  their  [British]  medals  and  flags ;  and 
that  some  of  their  chiefs  should  follow  me  to  St.  Louis." 
A.S  a  proof  of  their  agreeing  to  the  peace,  I  directed  that 
they  should  smoke  out  of  the  [Siou.x  chief]  Wabasha's  pipe, 
which  lay  on  the  table ;  they  all  smoked,  from  the  head 
chief  to  the  youngest  soldier.  They  generally  delivered  up 
their  flags  with  a  good  grace,  except  Flat  Mouth,  who  said 
he  had  lefi  both  at  his  camp,  three  days'  march,  and  prom- 
ised to  deliver  them  up  to  Mr.  M'Gillis  to  be  forwarded. 
With  respect  to  their  returning  with  me,  old  Sweet  thought 
it  most  proper  to  return  to  the  Indians  of  Red  lake.  Red 
river,  and  Rainy  Lake  river.  Flat  Mouth  said  it  was  neces- 
sary for  him  to  restrain  his  young  warriors,  etc.  The  other 
chiefs  did  not  think  themselves  of  sufficient  consequence  to 
offer  any  reason  for  not  following  me  to  St.  Louis,  a  journey 

medium  of  the  presents  they  had  received  from  officers  of  the  fur  company.  I 
have  thus  cited  Schoolcraft  for  the  popular  or  traditional  as  distinguished  from 
the  proper  or  historical  presentation  of  this  case.  The  facts  are  set  forth  at 
length  in  Warren's  History  of  the  Ojibways,  chap,  xxi.,  forming  pp.  256-262  of 
ifinn.  Hist.  Coll.,  V.  1885.  The  nom  de  guerre  which  the  Pillagers  accepted 
for  themselves  is  there  rendered  Mukimduawininewug  (men  who  take  by  force). 
There  appears  to  be  no  truth  whatever  in  laying  upon  the  British  the  infamous 
charge  of  intentional  introduction  01'  smallpox.  Warren  had  the  facts  direct 
from  an  intelligent  old  chief  of  the  Pillagers,  from  which  it  appears  that  the 
terrible  epidemic,  costing  several  thousand  lives,  was  introduced  on  the  return  of 
.1  war-party  of  Kenistenos,  Assineboines,  and  Ojibways,  who  had  gone  for  scalps 
to  the  Kechepegano  (Missouri)  r.,  and  caught  the  infection  from  a  village  of 
Giaucthinnewug  (Grosventres). 

"  Which  formed  Doc.  No.  6,  p.  17  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  i  of  the  orig.  cd.,  and 
will  be  found  beyond.     This  letter  answered  Pike's  of  Feb.  7th. 

"  The  speech  made  at  this  conference  by  Pike,  and  the  replies  of  three  chiefs, 
formed  Docs.  Nos.  7  and  8,  p.  19  and  p.  32  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  I  of  the  orig 
ed.    Both  are  found  beyond. 


,  ,  if' 


■>>.■  y 

•'  '  ''  'I 


172 


START  FOR   LOWER   RED  CEDAR  LAKE. 


^^F- 


of  between  2,000  and  3,000  miles  through  hostile  tribes  of 
Indians.  I  then  told  them,  "  that  I  was  sorry  to  find  that 
the  hearts  of  the  Sauteurs  of  this  quarter  were  so  weak; 
that  the  other  nations  would  say,  '  What !  were  there  no  sol- 
diers at  Leech,  Red,  and  Rainy  Lakes  who  had  the  hearts  to 
carry  the  calumet  of  their  chief  to  their  fatheV  ? '  "  This  had 
the  desired  effect.  The  Bucks  and  Beaux  [sic— both  pl.j, 
two  of  the  most  celebrated  young  warriors,  rose  and  offered 
themselves  to  me  for  the  embassy ;  they  were  accepted, 
adopted  as  my  children,  and  I  was  installed  their  father. 
Their  example  animated  the  others;,  and  it  would  have  been 
no  difficult  matter  to  have  taken  a  company  ;  two,  however, 
were  sufficient.  I  determined  that  it  should  be  my  care 
never  to  make  them  regret  the  noble  confidence  placed  in 
me  ;  for  I  would  have  protected  their  lives  with  my  own. 
Beaux  is  brother  to  Flat  Mouth.  Ga-.e  my  new  soldiers  a 
dance  and  a  small  dram.  They  attempted  to  get  more 
liquor,  but  a  firm  and  peremptory  denial  convinced  them  I 
was  not  to  be  trifled  with. 

Feb.  lyth.  The  chief  of  the  land"  brought  in  his  flag 
and  delivered  it  up.  Made  arrangements  to  march  my 
party  the  next  day.  Instructed  Sweet  how  to  send  the 
parole  to  the  Indians  of  Red  river,  etc.  Put  my  men 
through  the  manual,  and  fired  three  blank  rounds,  all  of 
which  not  a  little  astonished  the  Indians.  I  was  obliged  to 
give  my  two  new  soldiers  each  a  blanket,  pair  of  leggins, 
scissors,  and  looking-glass. 

Feb.  i8th.  We  '*  marched  for  [Lower]  Red  Cedar  Lake 
about  eleven  o'clock,  with  a  guide  provided  for  me  by  Mr. 
M'Gillis ;  were  all  provided  with  snowshoes.  Marched  off 
amid  the  acclamations  and  shouts  of  the  Indians,  who 
generally  had  remained  to  see  us  take  our  departure.    Mr. 

'*  Though  the  phrase  is  not  capitalized,  this  is  the  personal  name  of  a  Leech 
Lake  chief,  whom  Pike  elsewhere  calls  Chef  de  la  Terre  and  Obigouitte. 

'*  That  is,  the  main  party,  whom  Pike  starts  off  to-day  with  their  guide,  in 
advance  of  himself,  Corporal  Bradley,  Mr.  "  L'Rone,"  and  the  two  young 
Chips,  named  Buck  and  Beau.     This  would  be  inferred  from  the  above  text, 


ON  THE   PINE   RIVER   ROUTE. 


173 


tribes  of 
ind  that 
io  weak ; 
•e  no  sol- 
hearts  to 
This  had 
)oth  pl.l, 
,d  offered 
accepted, 
ir  father, 
lave  been 
,  however, 
I  my  care 
placed  in 
I  my  own. 
soldiers  a 
get  more 
ed  them  I 

in  his  flag 
march  my 
send  the 
It  my  men 
Inds,  all  of 
I  obliged  to 
|of  leggins, 

Pedar  Lake 
le  by  Mr. 
[arched  off 
lians,  who 
Irture. 


Mr. 


ne  of  a  Leech 
eouitte. 
ilieir  guide,  in 
he  two  young 
ke  above  text, 


Anderson  promised  to  come  on  with  letters ;  he  arrived 
about  twelye  o'clock  and  remained  all  night.  He  con- 
cluded to  go  down  with  me  to  see  Mr.  Dickson. 

Fih.  igtii.  Bradley,  Mr.  L'Rone  [?],  the  two  young 
Indians  [Buck  and  Beau],  and  myself,  left  Mr.  M'Gillis'  at 
ten  o'clock  ;  crossed  Leech  Lake  in  a  S.  E.  direction  24 
miles.  Mr.  M'Gillis'  hospitality  deserves  to  be  particularly 
noticed  ;  he  presented  me  with  his  dogs  and  cariole,  valued 
in  this  country  at  $200.  One  of  the  dogs  broke  out  of  his 
harness,  and  we  were  not  able  during  that  day  to  catch  him 
again  ;  the  other  poor  fellow  was  obliged  to  pull  the  whole 
load — at  least  1 50  pounds.  This  day's  march  was  from  lake 
to  lak' 

Feb.  ^,)th.  I  allowed  my  men  to  march  at  least  three 
hours  before  me ;  notwithstanding  which,  as  it  was  cold  and 
the  road  good,  my  sleigh  dogs  brought  me  ahead  of  all  by 
one  o'clock.  Halted  for  an  encampment  at  half  past  two 
o'clock.  Our  courses  this  day  were  S.  E.  six  miles,  then 
S.  18  miles,  almost  all  the  way  over  lakes,  some  of  which 
were  six  miles  across.  Encamped  on  the  bank  of  a  lake 
called  Sandy  Lake."     Indians  were  out  hunting. 

and  is  confirmed  by  that  of  1807,  p.  43,  which  says  that  "  the  men  were 
inarched"  Feb.  i8th,  and  Pike  with  others  was  "to  follow  afterwards."  I 
have  no  clew  as  yet  to  the  identity  of  this  "  L'Rone."  He  seems  to  have  been 
the  guide  whom  Mr.  M'Gillis  provided,  as  Pike  says  on  the  21st,  when  this 
man  was  bundled  back  again,  that  he  had  then  no  guide.  But  in  that  case, 
who  or  what  was  the  Reale  named  on  the  21st?    (See  this  name  in  Index.) 

"  Pike  is  on  a  Pine  River  route  from  Leech  1.  to  Lower  Red  Cedar  1.,  and 
goes  across  country  on  a  general  course  about  S.  S.  E.,  in  Cass  Co.  This  much 
is  clear  ;  but  this  region  is  none  too  well  known,  and  my  own  information  does 
not  suffice  me  to  attempt  identification  of  the  many  small  lakes  he  crosses  till 
he  comes  to  the  large  Whitefish  1.  in  the  course  of  Pine  r.  I  doubt  that  we 
have  data  which  enable  anyone  to  trail  him  with  confidence.  The  multiplic- 
ity of  lakes  and  streams  of  the  Pine  River  connections  affords  in  fact  several 
ways  when  the  water  is  open,  and  when  everything  was  frozen  over  Pike  did  not 
necessarily  take  any  one  of  the  usual  routes.  The  air-line  distance  is  some 
55  ni.;  but  he  traveled  much  further,  as  he  blundered  on  the  way  and  stnick 
the  Mississippi  too  low  down — at  the  mouth  of  present  Uean  cr.  See  note", 
p.  135,  and  forward,  where  Pike  describes  his  Pine  River  journey. 

"  Not  identified  ;  but  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  great  Sandy  1.  or  Lac 


'■  ii.j 
I'M 

1^' 


I!] 


ill 


174 


WHITEFISH  AND  OTHER    LAKES  PASSED. 


Feb.  2ist.  Traveled  this  day  generally  S.  Passed  but 
two  lakes;  Sandy  Lake,  which  is  of  an  oblong  form,  N.  and 
S.  four  miles,  and  one  other  small  one.  The  Indians,  at  the 
instigation  of  Mr.  L'Rone,  applied  for  him  to  accompany 
us.  I  conr>inted  that  he  should  go  as  far  as  [Lower]  Red 
Cedar  Lake.  I  then  wrote  a  note  to  M'Gillis  upon  the  occa- 
sion. After  Reale  had  departed  with  it,  L'Rone  disclosed 
to  me  that  it  was  his  wish  to  desert  the  N.  W.  Company 
entirely,  and  accompany  me.  To  have  countenanced  for 
a  moment  anything  of  this  kind,  I  conceived  would  have 
been  inconsistent  with  every  principle  of  honor  ;  I  therefore 
obliged  him  to  return  immediately.  We  then  had  no  guide, 
our  Indians  not  knov/ing  the  road.  Our  course  was  through 
woods  and  bad  brush,  15  miles. 

Feb.  22(1.  Our  course  a  Httle  to  the  S.  of  E.,  through 
woods  not  very  thick.  Arrived  at  White  Fish  Lake "  at 
eleven  o'clock,  and  took  an  observation.  My  party  crossed 
this  lake  and  encamped  between  two  lakes.  This  may  be 
called  the  source  of  Pine  river.  At  this  place  has  been  one 
of  the  N.  W.  Company's  establishments  at  the  N.  E.  and 
S.  side.  It  was  a  square  stockade  of  about  50  feet,  but  at 
this  time  nearly  all  consumed  by  fire.  Also  one  standing 
over  the  point  on  the  E.  side. 

Sunday,  Feb.  2jd.  My  two  Indians,  Boley,  and  myself, 
with  my  sleigh  and  dogs,  left  the  party  under  an  idea  that 
we  should  make  [Lower]  Red  Cedar  lake.  We  marched 
hard  all  day,  without  arriving  at  the  Mississippi.     Our  course 


du  Sable  on  the  other  side  of  the  Mississippi,  which  Pike  reached  Jan.  8tli  and 
left  Jan.  20th  :  see  note  ^',  p.  138. 

"Whitefish  or  Fish  1,,  i'.s  it  is  still  called,  is  the  largest  body  of  water  into 
which  Pine  r.  expands,  but  by  no  means  to  be  considered  as  its  source.  .Several 
large  streams  fall  into  it,  and  the  largest  one  of  these  is  properly  regarded  as 
the  continuation  of  Pine  r.  This  lake  begins  only  about  10  m.  (air-line)  from 
the  Mississippi.  Nicollet  names  it  Kadikomeg  1. ;  two  smaller  ones,  lower 
down  on  Pine  r.,  he  names  Plympton  and  Davenport.  Three  of  this  same 
connection  are  now  Cross,  Pine,  and  Gear.  We  know  exactly  where  Pike  is 
to-day  ;  though  his  account  of  what  appear  to  be  two  ?  or  three  ?  N.  W.  Co. 
houses  on  this  lake  is  not  as  clear  as  we  could  wish. 


THE   MISSISSIPPI   STRUCK  AT  DEAN   CREEK. 


^/3 


issed  but 
m,  N.  and 
ins,  at  the 
:company 
»wer]  Red 
1  the  occa- 
disclosed 
Company 
lanced  for 
ould  have 
[  therefore 
I  no  guide, 
as  through 

L.,  through 

Lake"  at 

rty  crossed 

his  may  be 

IS  been  one 

N.  E.  and 

eet,  but  at 

e  standing 

md  myself, 

idea  that 

''e  marched 

Our  course 

.  Jan.  8th  and 

1  of  water  into 
Durce.  Several 
ly  regarded  as 
l(air-line)  from 
|r  ones,  lower 
of  this  same 
Iwhere  Pike  is 
:?  N.  W.  Co. 


was  nearly  due  east  until  near  night,  when  we  changed  more 
south.  Took  no  provision  or  bedding.  My  Indians  killed 
15  partridges,  some  nearly  black,  with  a  red  mark  over  their 
eyes,  called  the  savanna  partridge  [Canada  grouse  or  spruce 
partridge,  Dendragaptis  canadensis\.  Overtaken  about 
noon  by  two  of  Mr.  Anderson's  men,  named  Brurie  and 
[Blank],  Mr.  Anderson  himself  not  being  able  to  come. 
Distance  30  miles. 

Feb.  24.th.  We  started  early,  and  after  passing  over  one 
of  the  worst  roads  in  the  world,  found  ourselves  on  a  lake 
about  three  o'clock;  took  its  outlet  [Dean  creek]  and  struck 
the  Mississippi  about  one  mile  below  the  [Chippewa] 
canoes  mentioned  on  Jan.  1st,  by  which  I  knew  where  we 
were.  Ascended  the  Mississippi  about  four  miles,  and  en- 
camped on  the  west  side  [about  the  mouth  of  Hay  creek '"]. 
Our  general  course  this  day  was  nearly  S.,  when  it  should 

"  On  the  up-voyage  we  figured  out  camp  of  Jan.  1st,  1 806,  to  have  been  between 
Dean  and  Hay  crs. ;  the  present  pat  coincidence  confirms  the  former  independ- 
dent  determination  :  see  note  ■•'',  p.  134.  From  Whitefish  1.  Pike  forged  ahead 
of  his  party,  accompanied  by  Boley,  Ruck,  and  Beau,  and  bore  away  from  Pine 
r.  direct  for  Lower  Red  Cedar  1.  He  struck  one  of  the  little  lakes  connected 
with  Dean  cr. ,  followed  this  creek  down  to  its  mouth,  and  recognized  this  point 
on  the  Mississippi  as  being  a  mile  below  where  he  had  seen  the  Chippewa  canoes 
turned  up  Jan.  ist.  Dean  cr.  empties  3^  m.  direct,  exactly  5  m.  by  the  river, 
below  Hay  cr.,  about  up  '.o  the  mouth  of  which  he  goes  to  camp  to-night,  and 
easily  makes  the  N.  W.  Co.  house  to-morrow.  Some  points  I  did  not  present 
in  my  former  note  on  this  locality  are  these  :  Between  Dean  and  Hay  crs. ,  and 
just  \V.  of  the  "  guide  meridian  "  which,  N.  of  the  Mississippi,  marks  the  sepa- 
ration of  the  4th  and  5th  .leridian  systems  of  survey,  is  a  very  nearly  straight 
stretch  of  the  river  for  2  m,,  nearly  E.  and  W.  This  was  known  to  the  old 
voyageurs  as  the  Grande  Avenue.  Its  W.  end  is  1 3/  m.  above  Dean  cr. ;  its  E. 
beginning  is  at  a  sharp  turn  of  the  river  Yz  m.  below  (N.  N.  E.  of)  the  mouth 
of  Hay  cr.,  2)^  m.  scarcely  E.  of  N.  of  the  mouth  of  Cedar  r.;  Pine  Knoll  is 
on  this  turn.  At  the  end  of  the  first  |^  m.  ascending  the  Avenue,  the  range 
line  between  Ranges  27  and  28  (of  the  4th  M.)  strikes  the  Mississippi  from 
the  S.,  and  ends  there  ;  this  range  line  is  also  the  inter-county  line  between  Crow 
^\ing  and  Aitkin  COS.  Rounding  the  bend  at  Pine  Knoll  and  going  less  than 
Vi  m.,  01, e  comes  to  the  section  line  of  Sects.  I  and  13,  T.  136,  R.  25,  5th  M.; 
this  is  J-^  m.  from  the  mouth  of  Hay  cr.,  and  from  this  point  upward  Aitkin 
Co.  is  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  Pike's  camp  of  the  24th  was  within  a  small 
fraction  of  a  mile  from  the  point  thus  indicated. 


I 


%. 


176 


LOWER  RED  CEDAR  LAKE — BRECHE-DENT. 


\:  '^ 


have  been  S.  E.  My  young  warriors  were  still  in  good 
heart,  singing  and  showing  every  wish  to  keep  me  so.  The 
pressure  of  my  racket-strings  brought  the  blood  through 
my  socks  and  mockinsons,  from  which  the  pain  I  marched 
in  may  be  imagined. 

Fed.  25th.  We  marched  and  arrived  at  [Lower  Red]  Cedar 
lake  before  noon ;  found  Mr.  Grant  and  De  Breche,  chief  of 
Sandy  lake  [Chippewas"]  at  the  house.  This  gave  me  much 
pleasure,  for  I  conceive  Mr.  Grant  to  be  a  gentleman  of 
as  much  candor  as  any  with  whom  I  made  an  acquaintance 
in  this  quarter,  and  the  chief,  De  Breche,  is  reputed  to  be  a 
man  of  better  information  than  any  [other]  of  the  Sauteurs. 

Feb.  26th.  Sent  one  of  Mr.  Grant's  men  down  with  a  ba 
of  rice  to  meet  my  people ;  he  found  them  encamped  c 
the  Mississippi.  Wrote  a  letter'"  to  Mr.  Dickson  on  the 
subject  of  the  Fols  Avoins  [Folle  Avoine  or  Menomonce 
Indians]  ;  also,  some  orders  to  my  sergeant  [Kennerman,  at 
the  stockade  on  Swan  river].  This  evening  I  had  a  long  con- 
versation with  De  Breche  ;  he  informed  me  that  a  string  of 
wampum  had  been  sent  among  the  Chipeways,  he  thought 
by  the  British  commanding  ofificer  at  St.  Joseph.  Ho  ap- 
peared to  be  a  very  intelligent  man. 

Feb.  2'jth.  The  chief  called  the  White  Fisher  and  seven 
Indians  arrived  at  the  house.  My  men  also  arrived  about 
twelve  o'clock. 

Feb.  28th.     We  left  [Lower]  Red  Cedar  lake  about  eleven 

••  The  first  chief  of  the  Sandy  Lake  Chippewas  of  Pike's  time  is  called  on  his 
table  Catawabata,  De  Breche,  and  Broken  Teeth.  The  French  form  is  intemled 
for  Dent  Breche,  and  I  suppose  the  more  usual  teiiu  for  a  person  with  broken 
teeth  would  be  Br^che-dent.  I  have  seen  the  word  printed  as  "  Bruslia."  The 
native  name  is  rendered  Cadiwabida  by  Schoolcraft,  who  speaks  of  him  in 
1832  as  among  the  dead  patriarchs  of  his  tribe.  W.  W.  Warren  renders  this 
more  correctly  Kadowaubeda  ;  while  Neill,  with  unusual  inaccuracy  on  his  part, 
speaks  of  Catawatabeta  the  Breche,  in  one  place,  and  Kadewabedas,  Ureche, 
Breche-dent,  or  Brechedent,  in  others.  This  man  was  living  in  July.  182S, 
when  he  visited  Sandy  1. ;  he  was  then  the  oldest  Chippewa  chief,  having  lieen  a 
small  boy  at  the  time  of  the  capture  of  Fort  Mackinac  in  1763. 

'"  Doc.  No.  (),  p.  23  of  App.  to  Pt.  I  of  the  orig.  ed  ;  to  be  found  beyond  in 
the  present  ed. 


|i' 


T. 


DOWN  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 


177 


1  in  good 
:  so.  The 
d  through 
[  marched 

led]  Cedar 
le,  chief  of 
e  me  much 
itleman  of 
quaintancc 
ted  to  be  a 
e  Sauteurs. 

with  a  ba- 
camped  c 
>on  on  the 
^enomonee 
nnerman,  at 

a  long  con- 
t  a  string  of 

he  thought 
)h.     He  ap- 

Ir  and  seven 
rived  about 

Ibout  eleven 

is  called  on  his 
form  is  intemleil 

jn  with  broken 
iBmsha."    The 

Uks  of  l>im  ill 
Iren  renders  this 

kicy  on  liis  part. 

ibedas,  Breche, 
in  July.  1828, 

\,  having  been  a 

3und  beyond  in 


o'clock,  and  went  to  where  the  canoes  were  [near  Dean 
creek],  mentioned  in  my  journal  of  Jan.  1st.  My  young  In- 
dians [Buck  and  Beau]  remained  behind  under  the  pretense 
of  waiting  for  the  chief  De  Breche,  who  returned  to  Sandy 
Lake  for  his  [British]  flag  and  medals,  and  was  to  render 
himself  at  my  post  with  Mr.  Grant  about  the  15th  of  the 
following  month. 

Mar.  1st.  Departed  early.  Passed  our  encampment  of 
Dec.  31st  at  nine  o'clock.  Passed  Pine  river  at  twelve 
o'clock.  Passed  our  encampment  of  Dec.  30th  at  three 
o'clock.  Passed  our  encampment  of  Dec.  29th  just  before 
we  came  to  our  present,  which  we  made  on  the  point  of  the 
Pine  Ridge  below.     Distance  43  miles." 

Sunday,  Mar.  2d.  Passed  our  encampment  of  Dec.  28th 
at  ten  o'clock,  that  of  Dec.  27th  at  one  o'clock,  and  encamped 
at  that  of  Dec.  26th  [Brainerd].  Found  wood  nearly  sufifi- 
cicnt  for  our  use.  This  morning  dispatched  Bradley  to  the 
last  place  we  had  buried  a  barrel  of  flour  [Dec.  20th,  a  short 
distance  below  Crow  Wing  river],  to  thaw  the  ground  and 
hunt.  This  day  a  party  of  Indians  struck  the  river  behind 
Bradley  and  before  us,  but  left  it  lO  miles  above  Raven 
[Crow  Wing]  river. 

Mar.  jd.  Marched  early  ;  passed  our  Christmas  encamp- 
ment at  sunrise.  I  was  ahead  of  my  party  in  my  cariole. 
Soon  afterward  I  observed  a  smoke  on  the  W.  shore. 
I  hallooed,  and  some  Indians  appeared  on  the  bank.  I 
waited  until  my  interpreter  came  up  ;  we  then  went  to  the 
camp.  They  proved  to  be  a  party  of  Chipeways,  who  had 
left  the  encampment  the  same  day  we  left  it.  They  pre- 
sented me  with  some  roast  meat,  which  I  gave  my  sleigh 
dogs.  They  then  left  their  camp  and  accompanied  us 
down  the  river      We  passed  our  encampment  of  Dec.  24th 

"See  note  ^',  p.  131,  Dec.  29th.  It  will  not  often  be  necessary  to  recheck 
mileages  on  the  down-voyage,  now  fairly  under  way.  "  Pine  Ridge  "  is  hardly  a 
named  locality,  though  capitalized  as  such.  It  is  close  to  White  Bear  Skin  r. ,  the 
discharge  of  Duck  and  Swamp  lakes,  near  which  we  set  camp  of  Dec.  29th,  1805. 
For  a  still  closer  indication  of  the  present  camp,  take  the  diminutive  Half  Moon 
I.,  near  the  W.  bank  of  the  river.     The  point  of  the  pine  ridge  is  opposite  that. 


'!►,     ' 


& 


www^ 


f  -» 


■^  lil 


178 


NEWS   FROM   THE   POST — KENNERMAN. 


at  nine  o'clock,  of  the  23d  at  ten  o'clock,  and  of  the  22d  at 
eleven  o'clock ;  here  the  Indians  crossed  over  to  the  VV. 
shore;  arrived  at  the  encampment  of  Dec.  2 1st  at  twelve 
o'clock,  where  we  had  a  barrel  of  flour  [cached  Dec.  20th, 
short  of  Crow  Wing  river]. 

I  here  found  Corporal  Meek  and  another  man  from  the 
post  [on  Swan  river],  from  whom  I  heard  that  the  men 
were  all  well ;  they  confirmed  the  account  of  a  Sioux  having 
fired  on  a  sentinel ;  and  added  that  the  sentinel  had  first 
made  him  drunk  and  then  turned  him  out  of  the  tent ;  upon 
which  he  fired  on  the  sentinel  and  ran  off,  but  promised  to 
deliver  himself  up  in  the  spring.  The  corporal  informed 
me  that  the  sergeant  [Kennerman]  had  used  all  the  elegant 
hams  and  saddles  of  venison  which  I  had  preserved  to  pre- 
sent to  the  commander-in-chief  and  other  friends ;  that  lie 
had  made  away  with  all  the  whisky,  including  a  keg  I  had 
for  my  own  use,  having  publicly  sold  it  to  the  men,  and 
a  barrel  of  pork ;  that  he  had  broken  open  my  trunk  and 
sold  some  things  out  of  it,  traded  with  the  Indians,  gave 
them  liquor,  etc.;  and  this,  too,  contrary  to  my  most 
pointed  and  particular  directions.  Thus,  after  I  had  used 
in  going  up  the  river  with  my  party  the  strictest  economy, 
living  upon  two  pounds  of  frozen  venison  a  day,  in  order 
that  we  might  have  provision  to  carry  us  down  in  the  spring, 
this  fellow  was  squandering  the  flour,  pork,  and  liquor  dur- 
ing the  winter,  while  we  were  starving  with  hunger  and 
cold.  I  had  saved  all  our  corn,  bacon,  and  the  meat  of  six 
deer,  and  left  it  at  Sandy  Lake,  with  some  tents,  my  mess- 
boxes,  salt,  tobacco,  etc.,  all  of  which  we  were  obliged  to 
sacrifice  by  not  returning  the  same  route  we  went ;  we  had 
consoled  ourselves  at  this  loss  by  the  flattering  idea  that  we 
should  find  at  our  little  post  a  handsome  stock  preserved— 
how  mortifying  the  disappointment ! 

We  raised  our  barrel  of  flour  and  came  down  to  the 
mouth  of  the  little  [Nokasippi]  river,  on  the  E.,  which  we 
had  passed  on  Dec.  21st.     The  ice  covered  with  water. 

Mar.  ift/i.     Proceeded  early.     Passed  our  encampment  of 


nS^ 


ARRIVAL  AT  THE   SWAN   RIVER   POST. 


179 


i| 


che  22d  at 

;o  the  \V. 

at  twelve 

Dec.  20th, 

,  from  the 
;  the  men 
)ux  having 
;1  had  first 
:ent;  upon 
romised  to 
1  informed 
;he  elegant 
ved  to  pre- 
Is;  that  he 
I  keg  I  had 
;  men,  and 
trunk  and 
idians,  gave 
my  most 
I  had  used 
economy, 
y,  in   order 
the  sprin;:;, 
liquor  diir- 
liunger  and 
meat  of  six 
my  mess- 
obliged  to 
it ;  we  had 
ea  that  we 
ireserved— 

)wn  to  the 
which  we 
Iwater. 
[mpment  of 


Dec.  20th  at  sunrise.  Arrived  at  that  of  the  19th  [read 
17th]  at  nine  o'clock;  here  we  had  buried  two  barrels." 
Made  a  large  fire  to  thaw  the  ground.  Went  on  the  prairie 
and  found  Sparks,  one  of  my  hunters,  and  brought  him  to 
the  river  at  the  Pine  Camp  [of  Dec.  14th,  15th,  i6th,  vicinity 
of  Olmsted's  barj.  Passed  on  opposite  our  encampment 
of  Dec.  13th  [at  or  near  Topeka],  and  encamped  where 
Sparks  and  some  men  had  an  old  hunting-camp,  and  where 
Fresaie,  a  Chipeway  chief,  surrounded  them. 

Mar.  ^th.  Passed  all  the  encampments  [Dec.  12th,  nth, 
lOth,  9th]  between  Pine  creek  and  the  post,  at  which 
we  arrived  about  ten  o'clock."     I  sent  a  man  on  ahead  to 

"  There  is  difficulty  in  adjusting  the  discrepant  records  of  Mar.  3d  and  4th 
with  those  of  Christmas  week,  1805  :  see  back,  Dec.  i7th-25th,  and  notes 
there.  The  party  were  then  toiling  by  Crow  Wing  r.,  between  Ripley  and 
Brainerd  ;  Pike  did  not  keep  with  his  men,  and  some  of  the  discrepancies  may 
be  due  to  actual  difference  between  his  movements  and  theirs.  Pike  also  says, 
Dec.  23d,  that  he  was  scarcely  able  to  make  his  notes  intelligible.  The  two 
records  contradict  instead  of  corroborating  each  other.  Thus,  Dec.  17th  has  it 
that  the  two-barrel  cache  (pork  and  flour)  was  made  that  day,  not  the  19th,  as 
above  said  ;  and  it  was  at  or  near  Ripley.  Dec.  20th  one  barrel  of  flour  was 
buried  ;  the  party  were  then  so  close  on  to  Crow  Wing  r.  that  Pike  got  there 
early  next  morning.  He  did  not  leave  Crow  Wing  r.  till  after  he  had  taken  the 
latitude  there,  on  the  24th.  Meanwhile,  his  men  were  struggling  up  to  this  river. 
It  is  really  a  small  matter,  of  no  more  than  some  16  m.  direct,  or  20  m.  by  the 
Mississippi,  and  thus  hardly  worth  dwelling  on  ;  but  I  like  to  be  accurate  when 
1  can.  Pike  was  camped  at  Brainerd  Dec.  26th  and  Mar.  2d  ;  he  raised  his 
one  barrel  cache  of  Dec.  20th,  near  Crow  Wing  r.,  on  Mar.  3d,  and  continued  on 
down  to  the  Nokasippi,  which  had  been  passed  on  or  about  Dec.  i8th,  not  21st, 
as  above  ;  on  Mar.  4th  he  came  to  the  two-barrel  cache  which  he  had  made  on 
Dec.  17th,  not  igth,  as  above  said,  wiien  he  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Ripley  ;  he 
continues  to-day  past  Ripley,  past  his  three  days'  camp  of  Dec.  14th,  15th,  and 
i6ih,  above  Olmsted's  bar,  and  fetches  up  to-night  opposite  his  camp  of 
Dec.  13th,  in  the  vicinity  of  Topeka.  Mar.  5th  finds  him  at  his  stockade  on 
Swan  r.  The  camp  of  Mar.  3d,  at  the  Nokasippi  r.,  is  an  absolutely  fixed 
point,  as  this  is  the  only  river  that  falls  in  from  the  E.  hereabouts.  "  Pine 
Camp  "  of  the  above  paragraph  is  the  place  where  he  was  camped  for  three 
(lays,  Dec.  14th,  15th,  r6th,  in  the  vicinity  of  Olmsted's  bar. 

'•'  "  Between  Pine  creek  and  the  post"  is  a  slip  for  "  between  Pine  camp  and 
the  post";  for  the  post  was  or.  Pine  fr«>t  (Swan  r.).  The  December  camps 
passed  Mar.  5th  were  four  :  Dec.  12th,  at  or  near  Fletcher  cr. ;  Dec.  nth,  near 
Little  Elk  r. ;  Dec.  loth,  at  Little  Falls  (city)  ;  Dec.  9th,  just  above  Swan  r., 


' ';  PI 


r^VtRT:    t 


i8o 


OTHER  ARRIVALS  AT  THE   STOCKADE. 


prevent  the  salute  I  had  before  ordered  by  letter  [of  Feb. 
28thJ  ;  this  I  had  done  from  the  idea  that  the  Sioux  chiefs 
would  accompany  me.  Found  all  well.  Confined  my  ser- 
geant. About  one  o'clock  Mr.  Dickson  arrived,  with  Kil- 
leur  Rouge,  his  son,  and  two  other  Sioux  men,  with  two 
women  who  had  come  up  to  be  introduced  to  the  Sauteuis 
they  expected  to  find  with  me.  Received  a  letter  from 
[Joseph]   Reinville. 

Mar.  6th.  Thomas  [Carron"],  the  Fob  Avoin's  first 
chief,  arrived  with  ten  others  of  his  nation.  I  made  a 
serious  and  authoritative  expostulative  representation  to 
him  of  my  opinion  of  the  conduct  of  Shawonoe,  another 
chief  of  his  nation,  who  had  behaved  ill.  Had  also  a  con- 
ference with  Killeur  Rouge  and  his  people.  At  night  wrote 
to  Messrs.  Grant,  M'Gillis,  and  Anderson. 

Mar.yth.  Held  conversations  with  the  Indians.  Thomas 
[Carron],  the  Fols  Avoin  chief,  assured  me  that  he  would 
interest  himself  in  obliging  the  Puants  to  deliver  up  the  men 
who  had  recently  committed  murders  on  the  Ouiscoiising 
and  Rock  rivers ;  and  if  necessary  he  would  make  it  a 
national  quarrel,  on  the  side  of  the  Americans.  This 
Thomas  is  a  fine  fellow,  of  a  very  masculine  figure,  noble 
and  animated  delivery,  and  appears  to  be  very  much  at- 
tached to  the  Americans.  The  Sioux  informed  me  that 
they  would  wait  until  I  had  determined  my  affairs  in  this 
country,  and  then  bear  my  words  to  the  St.  Peters. 

Mar.  8th.  The  Fols  Avoin  chief  presented  me  with  his 
pipe  to  give  to  the  Sauteurs  on  their  arrival,  with  assurances 
of  their  safety  on  their  voyage,  and  his  wish  for  them  to  de- 
scend the  river.  The  Fils  de  Killeur  Rouge  also  presented 
me  with  his  pipe  to  present  to  the  Sauteur  Indians  on  their 


<h- 


■m 


on  the  other  side  of  the  Mississippi.  The  salute  had  been  ordered  by  letter 
from  Grant's  house  on  Lower  Red  Cedar  1.:  see  back,  Feb.  26th.  For  "  Kil- 
leur Rouge  "  see  note  ",  p.  I18. 

'*  Full  name  of  this  Menomonee  chief,  as  listed  by  Pike  on  his  tabular  exhibit, 
where  his  native  name  is  rendered  Tomaw,  and  where  the  other  Folle  Avoine 
diief  also  appears  by  the  above  name,  Shawanoe,  not  translated  in  F.  or  E. 


.i^ 


PUNISHMENT  OF  THE  FAITHLESS  SERGEANT.        l8l 


[of  Feb. 
ux  chiefs 
1  my  scr- 
with  Kil- 
with  two 

Saute  u  IS 
tter  from 

oin's  first 
I  made  a 
ntation  to 
e,  another 
lIso  a  con- 
light  wrote 

;.    Thomas 
t  he  would 
up  the  men 
Duiscousing 
make   it  a 
cans.     This 
igure,  noble 
much   at- 
[ed  me  that 
:airs  in  this 
rs. 

e  with  his 
|i  assurances 
them  to  de- 
presented 
ns  on  their 


arrival,  to  make  them  smoke,  and  assure  them  of  his  friendly 
disposition,  and  that  he  would  wait  to  see  them  ab  Mr. 
Dickson's.  Thomas  made  a  formal  complaint  against  a 
Frenchman,  by  name  Greignor,"  who  resided  in  Green  bay, 
and  who  he  said  abused  the  Indians,  beat  them,  etc.,  with- 
out provocation.  I  promised  to  write  to  the  commanding 
officer  or  Indian  agent  at  Michilimackinac  upon  the  occa- 
sion. The  Indians  with  Mr.  Dickson  all  took  their  depart- 
ure. Hitched  my  dogs  in  the  sleigh,  which  drew  one  of  the 
Indian  women  down  the  ice,  to  the  no  little  amusement  of 
the  others.  Went  some  distance  down  the  river  in  order  to 
cut  a  mast.  Cut  a  pine  mast  35  feet  long  for  my  big  boat 
at  the  prairie  [Prairie  du  Chien].  This  day  my  little  boy 
broke  the  cock  of  my  gun  ;  few  trifling  misfortunes  could 
have  happened  which  I  should  have  regretted  more,  as  the 
wild  fowl  just  began  to  return  on  the  approach  of  spring. 

Sunday,  Mar.  gth.  I  examined  into  the  conduct  of  my 
sergeant,  and  found  that  he  was  guilty ;  punished  him  by 
reduction,  etc.  Visited  the  Fols  Avoin  lodges  and  received 
a  present  of  some  tallow.  One  of  my  men  arrived  from  the 
hunting-camp  with  two  deer. 

Mar.  loth.  Was  visited  by  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  and 
several  others  of  his  nation.  This  chief  was  an  extraordi- 
nary hunter ;  to  instance  his  power,  he  killed  40  elk  and  a 
bear  in  one  day,  chasing  the  former  from  dawn  to  eve.  We 
were  all  busied  in  preparing  oars,  guns,  mast,  etc.,  by  the 
time  the  ice  broke  up,  which  was  opening  fast. 

Mar.  nth.  In  a  long  conversation  with  a  Reynard,  he 
professed  not  to  believe  in  an  hereafter ;  but  he  believed 
that  the  world  would  all  be  drowned  by  water  at  some  future 
period ;  he  asked  how  it  was  to  be  repeopled.     In  justice  to 


ill 


[dered  by  letter 
Ith.     For  "  Kil- 

tabular  exhibit, 
U  FoUe  Avoine 
lin  F.  or  E. 


"  Possibly  a  clew  here  to  the  unidentified  person  whose  name  occurs  as  Grein- 
yeaor  Grienway  in  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  of  1893,  p.  ii88,  q.  v.  The  person 
here  meant  is  Louis  Grignon  :  see  Wis.  Hist.  Coll.,  VII.  p.  247.  A  Mr.  Grignon 
is  mentioned  in  Wm.  Morrison's  letter  (elsewhere  cited)  as  one  of  the  five  per- 
sons besides  himself  who  formed  the  party  that  came  into  the  country  from 
Fond  du  Lac  in  July,  1802.     The  name  stands  Greignon,  text  of  1807,  p.  46. 


Ill 


h  ii 


L 


182      TEXTUAL  AND  OTHER  VIEWS  OF  NOAH'S  ARK. 

his  nation,  however,  I  must  observe  that  his  opinion  was 
singular." 

Mar.  I2th.  Made  preparations ;  had  a  fine  chase  with 
deer  on  the  ice;  killed  one.  Since  our  return  I  have  re- 
ceived  eight  deer  from  our  camp. 

Mar.  ijtk.  Received  two  deer  from  my  hunting-camp. 
Went  out  with  my  gun  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 

"Pike's  observation  strikes  me  as  much  more  "singular"  than  the  Fox 
Indian's  opinion.  Many  of  us  have  been  taught  that  the  whole  world  was 
once  drowned,  excepting  one  favored  family,  and  we  have  a' so  been  told  how 
it  was  repeopled.  That  is  one  advantage  which  an  enlightened  Christian  has 
over  Lo,  the  poor  benighted  Indian.  The  savage  simply  accepts  that  one  of 
the  deluge-myths  which  his  own  ancestors  elaborated  to  suit  themselves,  liut 
the  Christian  has  the  Word  of  God  himself,  bound  up  in  many  different  editions 
of  various  dates,  for  the  truth  of  that  particular  deluge-myth  which  the  Jews 
appropriated,  with  variations  to  suit  their  own  tribal  vanity,  from  the  Chal- 
deans. They  invented  very  little  except  their  precious  Jehovah,  who  was  less 
polished  and  less  agreeable  a  god  than  most  of  those  who  were  elaborated  by 
the  more  civilized  tribes  who  surrounded  and  generally  whipped  the  Jews. 
The  Noachian  narration,  like  the  Genesis  relation  of  both  the  Elohistic  .nnd 
the  Jehovistic  scribes,  was  borrowed  from  one  of  the  myths  that  clustered  about 
the  legendary  character  known  as  Gisdhubar,  Izdubar,  etc.,  alleged  descend- 
ant of  the  last  antediluvian  monarch  Hasisadra,  who  became  known  to  the 
Greeks  through  Berosus  as  Xisuthros.  The  original  of  this  deluge-myth  was 
recovered  from  the  cuneiform  characters  by  Geo.  Smith  of  the  British  Museum 
in  1872,  and  may  be  read  in  English  and  various  other  modern  languages,  to 
the  great  edification  of  the  faithful,  no  doubt  :  see  it,  e.  g.,  in  the  charming 
and  readily  accessible  book.  The  Story  of  Chaldea,  by  Z^naide  A.  Ragozin,  2cl 
ed.,  8vo,  N.  Y.,  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons,  1888,  p.  301  and  p.  314.  After  the  aque- 
ous allegations  had  been  reduced  to  writing  in  Hebrew  characters,  and  genera- 
tions of  Jewish  rabbis  had  tinkered  the  text  to  suit  themselves  with  Masoretic 
points,  and  various  anonymous  scribes  had  turned  it  into  Septuagint  Greek  and 
Vulgate  Latin,  some  people  in  England  who  had  never  heard  of  the  original, 
could  not  have  read  a  word  of  it  if  they  had  handled  the  very  bricks  on  which  it 
was  first  stamped,  and  do  not  appear  to  have  been  informed  on  the  subject  by 
the  Holy  Ghost,  gave  us  their  English  version  of  the  words  of  God  duly 
"authorized"  by  "  the  wisest  fool  in  Europe,"  as  the  Due  de  Sully  called 
James  I.  The  most  credible  items  in  this  account  are  that  the  elephant  took  his 
trunk  with  him  and  stood  behind  it  in  Ihe  ark,  but  that  the  cock  and  the  fox 
were  worse  off  for  baggage,  having  only  a  comb  and  a  brush  between  them  ; 
yet  I  also  believe  just  as  firmly  that  the  raven  which  Noah  let  fly  was  the 
original  progenitor  of  the  Petit  Corbeau  who  lived  in  the  village  of  Kapoja, 
near  St.  Paul,  Minn. 


lRK. 
)inion  was 

:hase  with 
I  have  re- 

,ting-camp. 
{  the  river. 

than  the  Fox 
lole  world  was 
been  told  how 
d  Christian  has 
pts  that  one  of 
emselves.    Hut 
ifferent  editions 
which  the  Jews 
from  the  Chal- 
h,  who  was  less 
e  elaborated  by 
pped   the  Jews. 
le  Elohistic  and 
t  clustered  about 
lUeged  descend- 
known  to  the 
leluge-myth  was 
British  Museuni 
!rn  languages,  to 
|in  the  charming 
A.  Ragozin,  2d 
After  the  aque- 
lers,  and  genera- 
s  with  Masoretic 
lagint  Greek  and 
of  the  original, 
■icks  on  which  it 
[n  the  subject  by 
Is  of  God  duly 
de  Sully  called 
dephant  took  his 
;ock  and  the  fox 
between  them; 
let  fly  was  the 
lu^eof  Kapoja, 


MENOMONEE   LOGIC. 


183 


I       ! 


Ascended  the  mountain  which  borders  the  prairie.  On  the 
point  of  it  I  found  a  stone  on  which  the  Indians  had  sharp- 
ened their  knives,  and  a  war-club  half  finished.  From  this 
spot  you  may  extend  the  eye  over  vast  prairies  with 
scarcely  any  interruption  but  clumps  of  trees,  which  at  a  dis- 
tance appeared  like  mountains,  from  two  or  three  of  which 
the  smoke  rising  in  the  air  denoted  the  habitation  of  the 
wandering  savage,  and  too  often  marked  them  out  as  vic- 
tims to  their  enemies  ;  from  whose  cruelty  I  have  had  the 
pleasure  in  the  course  of  the  winter  and  through  a  wilder- 
ness of  immense  extent  to  relieve  them,  as  peace  has 
reigned  through  my  mediation  from  the  prairie  Des  Cheins 
to  the  lower  Red  river.  If  a  subaltern  with  but  20  men,  at 
so  great  a  distance  from  the  seat  of  his  government,  could 
effect  so  important  a  change  in  the  minds  of  those  savages, 
what  might  not  a  great  and  independent  power  effect,  if, 
instead  of  blowing  up  the  flames  of  discord,  they  exerted 
their  influence  in  the  sacred  cause  of  peace  ? 

When  I  returned  to  the  fort,  I  found  the  Fols  Avoin 
chief,  who  intended  to  remain  all  night.  He  told  me  that 
near  the  conclusion  of  the  Revolutionary  War  his  nation 
began  to  look  upon  him  as  a  warrior ;  that  they  received  a 
parole  from  Michilimackinac,  on  which  he  was  dispatched 
with  40  warriors ;  and  that  on  his  arrival  he  was  requested 
to  lead  them  against  the  Americans.  To  which  he  replied : 
"We  have  considered  you  and  the  Americans  as  one  people. 
You  are  now  at  war;  how  are  we  to  decide  who  has  justice 
on  their  side  ?  Besides,  you  white  people  are  like  the  leaves 
on  the  trees  for  numbers.  Should  I  march  with  my  40  war- 
riors to  the  field  of  battle,  they  with  their  chief  would  be 
unnoticed  in  the  multitude,  and  would  be  swallowed  up 
as  the  big  water  embosoms  the  small  rivulets  which 
discharge  themselves  into  it.  No,  I  will  return  to  my 
nation,  where  '.ny  countrymen  may  be  of  service  against 
our  red  enemies,  and  their  actions  renowned  in  the  dance 
of  our  nation." 

Mar.  1/f.th.    Took  the  latitude  by  an  artificial  horizon, 


f   :     f 


i  I 


184 


VISIT  TO  THOMAS    SUGAR  CAMP. 


and  measured  the  river.     Received  one  deer  and  a  half  from 
my  hunting-camp.     Ice  thinner. 

Mar.  15th.  This  was  the  day  fixed  upon  by  Mr.  Grant 
and  the  Chipeway  warriors  for  their  arrival  at  my  fort.  I 
was  all  day  anxiously  expecting  them,  for  I  knew  that 
should  they  not  accompany  me  down,  the  peace  partially 
effected  between  them  and  the  Sioux  would  not  be  on  a 
permanent  footing.  Upon  this  I  take  them  to  be  neither  so 
brave  or  generous  as  the  Sioux,  who  in  all  their  transactions 
appear  to  be  candid  and  brave,  whereas  the  Chipeways  are 
suspicious,  consequently  treacherous  and  of  course  cowards. 

Sunday,  Mar.  i6th.  Received  three  deer  from  our  hunt- 
ing-camp.    Examined  trees  for  canoes. 

Mar.  lyth.  Left  the  fort  with  my  interpreter  [Rousseau] 
and  [Private  Alexander]  Roy,  in  order  to  visit  Thomas,  the 
Fols  Avoin  chief,  who  was  encamped,  with  six  lodges  of  his 
nation,  about  20  miles  below  us,  on  a  little  [Wolf  creek  of 
Pike,  now  Spunk]  river  which  empties  into  the  Mississippi 
on  the  W.  side,  a  little  above  Clear  river  [of  Pike,  now  the 
Platte].  On  our  way  down  killed  one  goose,  wounded 
another,  and  a  deer  that  the  dogs  had  driven  into  an  air- 
hole; hung  our  game  on  the  trees.  Arrived  at  the  creek; 
took  out  on  it ;  ascended  three  or  four  miles  on  one  bank, 
and  descended  on  the  other  [missing  Carron's  camp  both 
ways].  Killed  another  goose.  Struck  the  Mississippi  below 
[Spunk  river].  Encamped  at  our  encampment  of  the  [13th] 
of  October,  when  we  ascended  the  river.  Ate  our  goose 
for  supper.  It  snowed  all  day,  and  at  night  a  very  severe 
storm  arose.  It  may  be  imagined  that  we  spent  a  very  dis- 
agreeable night  without  shelter,  and  but  one  blanket  each. 

Mar.  i8th.  We  marched  [up  Spunk  river],  determined  to 
find  the  [Menomonee]  lodges.  Met  an  Indian  whose  track 
we  pursued  through  almost  impenetrable  woods  for  about 
2^  miles  to  the  camp.  Here  there  was  one  of  the  finest 
sugar-camps  I  almost  ever  saw,  the  whole  of  the  timber 
being  sugar-tree.  We  were  conducted  to  the  chief's  lodge, 
who  received  us  in  patriarchal  style.     He  pulled  off  my 


A    PRACTICAL  QUESTION  OF  MORALITY. 


185 


leggings  and  mockinsons,  put  me  in  the  best  place  in  his 
lodge,  and  offered  me  dry  clothes.  He  then  presented  us 
with  syrup  of  the  maple  to  drink,  and  asked  whether  I  pre- 
ferred eating  beaver,  swan,  elk,  or  deer;  upon  my  giving  the 
preference  to  the  first,  a  large  kettle  was  filled  by  his  wife, 
in  which  soup  was  made  ;  this  being  thickened  with  flour,  we 
had  what  I  then  thought  a  delicious  repast.  After  we  had 
refreshed  ourselves,  he  asked  whether  wc  would  visit  his 
people  at  the  other  lodges,  which  we  did,  and  in  each  were 
presented  with  something  to  eat ;  by  some,  with  a  bowl  of 
sugar;  by  others,  a  beaver's  tail,  etc.  After  making  this 
tour  we  returned  to  the  chief's  lodge,  and  found  a  berth 
provided  for  each  of  us,  of  good  soft  bearskins  nicely  spread, 
and  on  mine  there  was  a  large  feather  pillow. 

I  must  not  here  omit  to  mention  an  anecdote  which 
serves  to  characterize  more  particularly  their  manners. 
This  in  the  eyes  of  the  contracted  moralist  would  deform 
my  hospitable  host  into  a  monster  of  libertinism ;  but  by 
a  liberal  mind  would  be  considered  as  arising  from  the 
hearty  generosity  of  the  wild  savage.  In  the  course  of  the 
day,  observing  a  ring  on  one  of  my  fingers,  he  inquired  if 
it  was  gold  ;  he  was  told  it  was  the  gift  of  one  with  whom 
I  should  be  happy  to  be  at  that  time  ;  he  seemed  to  think 
seriously,  and  at  night  told  my  interpreter,  "  That  perhaps 
his  father"  (as  they  all  called  me)  "  felt  much  grieved  for 
the  want  of  a  woman  ;  if  so,  he  could  furnish  him  with  one." 
He  was  answered  that  with  us  each  man  had  but  one  wife, 
and  that  I  considered  it  strictly  my  duty  to  remain  faithful 
to  her.  This  he  thought  strange,  he  himself  having  three, 
and  replied  that  "  He  knew  some  Americans  at  his  nation 
who  had  half  a  dozen  wives  during  the  winter."  The  inter- 
preter observed  that  they  were  men  without  character ;  but 
that  all  our  great  men  had  each  but  one  wife.  The  chief 
acquiesced,  but  said  he  liked  better  to  have  as  many  as  he 
pleased.  This  conversation  passing  without  any  appeal  to 
me,  as  the  interpreter  knew  my  mind  on  those  occasions 
and  answered  immediately,  it  did  not  appear  as  an  imme- 


I 


w.f'T 


i     ; 

i 


f.  :■»! 


■;j|ij'i. 


I'f  .:     "1. 


i86 


RETURN  TO  THE  POST— VISITORS. 


diate  refusal  of  the  woman.     Continued  snowing  very  hard 
all  day.     Slept  very  warm. 

Afar.    igth.     This    morning  purchased    two   baskets  of 
sugar,  for  the  amount  of  which  I  gave  orders  on  Mr.  Dick- 
son.    After  feasting  upon  a  swan,  took  our  leave  for  [the 
Swan  river]  camp ;  still  snowing.     Finding  my  two  com- 
panions [the  interpreter  and  Private  Roy]  unable  to  keep 
up,  I  pushed   on   and   arrived   at   the  [Mississippi]  river. 
When  I  arrived  at  the  place  where  I  had  hung  up  my  first 
goose  [Mar.  17th],  I  found  that  the  ravens  and  eagles  had 
not  left  a  feather;  and  feasting  upon  the  deer  was  a  band 
sufficient  to  have  carried  it  away,  which  had  picked  its  bones 
nearly  clean ;  what  remained  I  gave  my  dogs.     Stopped  at 
the  place  where  I  expected  to  find  the  last  goose,  but  could 
see  nothing  of  it ;  at  length  I  found  it  hid  under  the  gra:-3 
and  snow,  where  some  animal  had  concealed  it,  after  eating 
off  its  head   and   neck.      I  carried  it  to   the  fort,   where 
I  arrived  about    an    hour   before    sundown.     Dispatched 
immediately  two  men  with  rackets  to  meet  the  interpreter 
and  Le  Roy  [Private  A.  Roy].     They  arrived  about  two 
hours  after  dark.     Some  men  also  arrived  at  [from  ?]  the 
hunting-camp  with  three  deer.     The  snow  ceased  falling 
about  one  hour  after  dark ;  it  was  nearly  two  feet  deep  on 
a  level,  the  deepest  that  had  fallen  so  low  down  this  winter. 

Mar.  20th.  Dispatched  nine  men  to  my  hunting-camp, 
whence  received  two  deer.  Cloudy  almost  all  day  ;  but  the 
water  rose  fast  over  the  ice. 

Mar.  2ist.  received  a  visit  from  the  Fols  Avoin  chief 
called  the  Shawcuoe,  and  six  young  men.  I  informed  him 
without  rese-ve  A  the  news  I  had  heard  of  him  at  [Lower] 
Red  Cedai  Lake,  and  the  letter  I  wrote  to  Mr.  Dickson. 
He  denied  it  in  toto,  and  on  the  contrary  said  that  he  pre- 
sented his  flag  and  two  medals  to  the  Chipeways,  as  an 
inducement  for  them  to  descend  in  the  spring ;  and  gave 
them  all  the  encouragement  in  his  power.  His  party  was 
much  astonished  at  the  language  I  held  with  him.  But 
from  his  firm  protestations  we  finally  parted  friends.     He 


PHYSICAL  BEAUTY  OF  THE   MENOMONEES. 


187 


krery 


hard 


askets  of 
Mr.  Dick- 
-  for  [the 
two  coni- 
e  to  keep 
ppi]  river. 
ip  my  fust 
eagles  had 
ras  a  band 
d  its  bones 
stopped  at 
;,  but  coukl 
;r  the  grass 
after  eating 
fort,   where 
Dispatched 

interpreter 
I  about  two 
[from?]  the 
ased  faUing 
;et  deep  on 

this  winter, 
mting-eamp, 

ay ;  but  the 

Avoin  chief 
.formed  him 

at  [Lower] 
^r.  Dickson. 
that  he  pre- 
■ways,  as  an 
g .  and  gave 

is  party  was 

him.    But 

iriends.    He 


informed  me  that  a  camp  of  Sautcurs  were  on  the  river, 
waiting  for  the  chiefs  to  come  down  ;  from  which  it  ap- 
peared they  were  still  expected.  At  night,  after  the  others 
had  gone,  Thomuo  arrived  and  stayed  all  night.  We  agreed 
upon  a  hunting-party  ;  also  promised  to  pay  old  Shawonoe 
a  visit.  He  informed  me  that  he  set  out  the  other  day  to 
follow  me,  but  finding  the  storm  so  very  bad  returned  to 
his  wigwam.  The  thermometer  lower  than  it  haa  been  at 
any  time  since  I  commenced  my  voyage. 

Mar.  22d.  Ten  of  my  men  arrived  from  the  hunting- 
camp  with  41^  deer.  Thomas  departed  ;  I  sent  a  man  with 
him  to  his  camps,  from  which  he  sent  me  two  beavers. 

Sunday,  Mar.  2jd.  Agreeably  to  promise,  after  breakfast 
I  departed  with  Miller  and  my  interpreter  to  pay  a  visit  to 
the  old  chief  Shawonoe.  We  arrived  at  his  camp  in  about 
two  hours.  On  our  way  we  met  the  Fols  Avoin  called 
Chein  Blanche  [Chien  Blanc],  who  had  visited  my  post 
[Dec.  7th]  previously  to  my  starting  up  the  river,  and  at 
whose  house  we  stopped  when  passing.  We  were  received 
by  old  Shawonoe  at  his  lodge  with  the  usual  Indian  hos- 
pitality, but  very  different  from  the  polite  reception  given 
us  by  Thomas. 

Charlevoix  and  others  have  all  borne  testimony  to  the 
beauty  of  this  nation.  From  my  own  observation,  I  had 
sufficient  reason  to  confirm  their  information  as  respected 
the  males ;  for  they  were  all  straight  and  well-made,  about 
the  middle  size;  their  complexions  generally  fair  for 
savages,  their  teeth  good,  their  eyes  large  and  rather  lan- 
guishing ;  they  have  a  mild  but  independent  expression  of 
countenance,  that  charms  at  first  sight ;  in  short,  they  would 
be  considered  anywhere  as  handsome  men.  But  their 
account  of  the  women  I  never  before  believed  to  be  correct. 
In  this  lodge  there  were  five  very  handsome  women  when 
we  arrived  ;  and  about  sundown  a  married  pair  arrived, 
whom  my  interpreter  observed  were  the  handsomest  couple 
he  knew;  and  in  truth  they  were,  the  man  being  about 
5  feet  1 1  inches,  and  possessing  in  an  eminent  manner  all 


?;'''',':''!»" 


'■' 


P«fllM 


1 88 


THEIR  COMMERCIAL  CHARACTERISTICS. 


H 


s  ^ 


I        '1  -s'. 


iliiii* 


the  beauties  of  countenance  which  distinguish  his  nation. 

His  companion  was  22  years  old,  having  dark  brown  eyes, 

jet  hair,  an  elegantly  proportioned  neck,  and  her  figure  by 

no  means  inclined  to  corpulency,  as  they  generally  are  after 

marriage.     He  appeared  to  attach  himself  particularly  to 

me,  and  informed  that  his  wife  was  the  daughter  of  an 

American  who,  passing  through  the  nation  about  23  years 

before,  remained  a  week  or  two  possessed  of  her  mother, 

and  that  she  was  the  fruit  of  this  amour ;  but  his  name 

they  were  unacquainted  with.     I  had  brought  six  biscuits 

with  me,  which  I  presented  her  on  the  score  of  her  being 

my  countrywoman ;  this  raised  a  loud  laugh,  and  she  was 

called  "  the  Bostonian  "  "  during  the  rest  of  my  stay. 

I   found  them   generally  extremely  hard  to   deal  with. 

My  provision  being  only  a  little  venison,  I  wished  to  pro- 

cure  some  bear's  oil,  for  a   few  gallons  of  which  I   was 

obliged  to  pay  $i  per  gallon,  and  then  they  wanted  to  mix 

tallow  with  the  oil.    They  also  demanded  $10  for  a  bearskin, 

the  most  beautiful  I  ever  saw,  which  I  wanted  to  mount  a 

saddle.     Indeed  I  was  informed  that  traders  in  this  country 

sometimes  give  as  much  as  $16  [apiece]  for  bearskins,  for 

they  are  eminently  superior  to  anything  of  the  kind  on  the 

lower  Mississippi,  and  sell  in  Europe  for  double  the  price. 

In  the  evening  we  were  entertained  with  the  calumet  and 

dog  dance ;   also  the  dance  of  the .     Some  of  the 

men  struck  the  post  and  told  some  of  their  war  exploits; 

but  as  they  spoke  in  Menomene,  my  interpreter  could  not 

explain  it.     After  the  dance,  we  had  the  feast  of  the  dead, 

'^  The  phrase  which  Pike's  interpreter  applied  to  the  woman  was  no  doubt 
"  I.a  Bastonnaise."  For  a  long  period  before  and  after  the  end  of  the  last  cen- 
tury, "  Bostonian"  in  some  form  was  the  nickname  of  English-speaking  whites, 
especially  New  Englanders — just  as  we  now  say  "  Yankee."  The  Iiulians 
picked  up  the  word  from  the  Canadian  French,  and  it  passed  from  mouth  to 
mouth  across  the  continent  ;  e.  g.,  it  entered  the  vocabulary  of  the  Chinook 
jargon  spoken  on  the  N.  W.  Coast.  To  cite  a  case  :  "  On  my  remarking  to  Mr. 
Frobisher  that  I  suspected  the  Bastonnais  (Bostonians,  or  English  colonists) 
had  been  doing  some  mischief  in  Canada,  the  Indians  directly  exclaimed,  '  Yes ; 
that  is  the  name  !  Bastonnais.'  They  were  lately  from  the  Grand  Portage," 
etc.,  Alex.  Henry,  Trav.  of  1761-76,  8vo,  N.  Y.,  1809,  p.  329. 


■i:^iii*liL 


GRACE  BEFORE   MEAT. 


189 


5  nation, 
wn  eyes, 
igure  by 
are  after 
ularly  to 
;er  of  an 
23  years 
:  mother, 
his  name 
X  biscuits 
her  being 
1  she  was 

ay- 
deal  with. 

sd  to  pro- 
ich  I   was 
ed  to  mix 
a  bearskin, 
to  mount  a 
jiis  country 
Tskins,  for 
nd  on  the 
the  price, 
^lumet  and 
me  of  the 
r  exploits; 
could  not 
If  the  dead, 

I  was  no  doubt 
Df  the  last  cen- 

Jeaking  whites, 
The  Indians 
from  mouth  to 
the  Chinook 
narking  to  Mr. 
kish  colonists) 
[laimed,  '  Yes ; 
[•and  Portage," 


as  it  is  called,  at  which  each  two  or  three  were  served  with 
a  pan  or  vessel  full  of  meat,  and  when  all  were  ready  there 
was  a  prayer,  after  which  the  eating  commenced.  Then  it 
was  expected  we  should  eat  up  our  portion  entirely,  being 
careful  not  to  drop  a  bone,  but  to  gather  all  up  and  put 
them  in  the  dish.  We  were  then  treated  with  soup.  After 
the  eating  was  finished  the  chief  again  gave  an  exhortation, 
which  finished  the  ceremony.  I  am  told  they  then  gather 
up  all  the  fragments,  and  throw  them  in  the  water,  lest  the 
dogs  should  get  them.  Burning  them  is  considered  as 
sacrilegious.  In  this  lodge  were  collected  at  one  time  41 
persons,  great  and  small,  17  of  whom  were  capable  of  bear- 
ing arms,  besides  dogs  without  number. 

Afar.  2ph.  Rose  early  and  with  my  dog-sled  arrived  at 
the  fort  before  ten  o'clock.  In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Grant 
arrived  with  De  Breche  [Brfeche-dent]  and  some  of  his  young 
men.  Saluted  him  with  14  rounds.  Found  my  two  young 
warriors  [Buck  and  Beau]  of  Leech  Lake  were  brave  enough 
to  return  to  their  homes.  Mr.  Grant  and  myself  sat  up  late 
talking. 

Mar.  25th.  Sent  an  Indian  to  Thomas'  lodge,  and  a  let- 
ter to  Mr.  Dickson.  It  snowed  and  stormed  all  day.  Gave 
the  chief  the  news. 

Mar.  26th.  Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoin  chief,  arrived  with 
seven  of  his  men,  and  old  Shawonoe  and  six  of  his  party.  I 
liad  them  all  to  feed  as  well  as  my  own  men.  At  night  I 
gave  them  leave  to  dance  in  the  garrison,  which  they  did 
until  ten  o'clock;  but  once  or  twice  told  me  that  if  I  was 
tired  of  them  the  dance  should  cease.  Old  Shawonoe  and 
White  Dog  [Chien  Blanc]  of  the  Fols  Avoins  told  their  ev 
ploits,  which  we  could  not  understand  ;  but  De  Breche  arose 
and  said,  "  I  once  killed  a  Sioux  and  cut  of?  his  head  with 
such  a  spear  as  I  now  present  to  this  Winebago  " — at  the 
same  time  presenting  one  to  a  Winebago  present,  with  whom 
tile  Chipeways  were  at  war  ;  this  was  considered  by  the  for- 
mer as  a  great  honor.  My  hunters  went  out  but  killed 
nothing. 


II  II 


IQO 


PACIFIC   PAROLE   OF  THE   MENOMONEE  CHIEF. 


Mar.  2yth.  In  the  morning  the  Chipeway  chief  made  a 
speech  and  presented  his  peace  pipe  to  me  to  bear  to  the 
Sioux,  on  which  were  seven  strings  of  wampum,  as  author- 
ity from  seven  bands  of  the  Chipeways  either  to  conclude 
peace  or  to  make  war.  As  he  had  chosen  the  former,  he 
sent  his  pipe  to  the  Sioux  and  requested  me  to  inform  them 
that  he  and  his  people  would  encamp  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Riviere  De  Corbeau  the  ensuing  summer,  where  he  would 
see  the  United  States  flag  flying.  As  a  proof  of  his  pacific 
disposition,  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  then  spoke  and  said :  "  His 
nation  was  rendered  small  by  its  enemies ;  only  a  remnant 
was  left,  but  they  could  boast  of  not  being  slaves  ;  for  that 
always  in  preference  to  their  women  and  children  being 
taken,  they  themselves  killed  them.  But  that  their  father 
(as  they  called  me)  had  traveled  far,  and  had  taken  much 
pains  to  prevent  the  Sioux  and  Chipeways  from  killing  one 
another ;  that  he  thought  none  could  be  so  ungenerous  as  to 
neglect  listening  to  the  words  of  their  father ;  that  he  would 
report  to  the  Sioux  the  pacific  disposition  of  the  Sauteurs, 
and  hoped  the  peace  would  be  firm  and  lasting."  I  then  in 
a  few  words  informed  De  Breche  "  that  I  would  report  to 
the  Sioux  all  he  had  said,  and  that  I  should  ever  feel 
pleased  and  grateful  that  the  two  nations  had  laid  aside  the 
tomahawk  at  my  request.  That  I  thanked  the  Fols  Avoin 
chief  for  his  good  wishes  and  paro'e  which  he  had  given  the 
Sauteurs."  After  all  this,  each  chief  was  furnished  with  a 
kettle  of  liquor,  to  drink  each  other's  health ;  and  De 
Breche's  flag  which  I  had  presented  him  was  displayed  in 
the  fort.  The  Fols  Avoins  then  departed,  at  which  I  was 
by  no  means  displeased ;  for  they  had  already  consumed 
all  the  dry  meat  I  had  laid  aside  for  m^'  voyage,  and  I 
was  apprehensive  that  my  hunters  would  not  be  able  to 
lay  up  another  supply. 

Mar.  28th.  Late  in  the  afternoon  Mr.  Grant  and  the 
Sauteurs  took  their  departure,  calculating  that  the  Sioux  had 
left  the  country.  Took  with  me  one  of  my  soldiers  and 
accompanied  them  to  the  Fols  Avoins  lodge,  called  the 


ON  THE  WING  OF  EAGER  EXPECTATION. 


191 


Shawonese,  where  we  ten  stayed  all  night.  The  Fols  Avoins 
and  Sauteurs  had  a  dance,  at  which  I  left  them  and  went 
to  sleep.  Feasted  on  elk,  sugar,  and  syrup.  Previously  to 
the  Indians*  departing  from  my  post,  I  demanded  the 
chief's  medal  and  flags ;  the  former  he  delivered,  but  with 
a  bad  grace  ;  the  latter  he  said  were  in  the  lands  when  I  left 
Lake  De  Sable  (as  instructed  by  the  traders  I  suppose),  and 
that  he  could  not  obtain  them.    It  thundered  and  lightened. 

Mar.  2gth.  We  all  marched  in  the  morning,  Mt.  Grant 
and  party  for  Sandy  Lake,  and  I  for  my  hunting-camp.  I 
gave  him  my  spaniel  dog.  He  joined  me  again  after  we 
had  separated  about  five  miles.  Arrived  at  my  hunting- 
camp  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  was  informed 
that  my  hunters  had  gone  to  bring  in  a  deer ;  they  arrived 
with  it,  and  about  eleven  o'clock  we  all  went  out  hunting. 
Saw  but  few  deer,  out  of  which  I  had  the  good  fortune  to 
kill  two.  On  our  arrival  at  camp  found  one  of  my  men  at 
the  garrison  with  a  letter  from  Mr.  Dickson.  The  soldier 
informed  me  that  one  Sioux  had  arrived  with  Mr,  Dickson's 
men.  Although  much  fatigued,  as  soon  as  I  had  eaten  some- 
thing I  took  one  of  my  men  and  departed  for  the  garrison 
one  hour  before  sundown.  The  distance  was  21  miles,  and 
the  ice  very  dangerous,  being  rotten,  with  water  over  it 
nearly  a  foot  deep ;  we  had  sticks  in  our  hands,  and  in  many 
places  ran  them  through  the  ice.  It  thundered  and  light- 
ened, with  rain.  The  Sioux,  not  finding  the  Sauteurs,  had 
returned  immediately. 

Sunday,  Mar.  joth.  Wrote  to  Mr.  Dickson,  and  dis- 
patched his  man.  Considerably  stiff  from  my  yesterday's 
march.  Calked  our  boats,  as  the  ice  had  every  appearance 
of  breaking  up  in  a  few  days.  Thus  while  on  the  wing  of 
eager  expectation,  everyday  seemed  an  age.  Received  2]4 
deer  from  our  hunting-camp. 

Mar.  jist.  Finished  calking  my  boats;  the  difficulty 
then  was  with  me,  what  I  should  get  to  j  itch  the  seams. 
Wc  were  all  this  day  and  next  as  anxiously  watching  the 
ice  as  a  lover  would  the  arrival  of  the  priest  who  was  to 


m 


192 


NAVIGATION  ABOUT  TO  BE  RESUMED. 


?!'■ 


I  'w 


f  '* 


unite  him  to  his  beloved.  Sometimes  it  moved  a  little,  but 
soon  closed.  An  Indian  and  his  woman  crossed  it  when  the 
poles  which  they  held  in  their  hands  were  forced  through  in 
many  places.  The  prevision  to  which  I  was  obliged  to  re- 
strict myself  and  men,  viz.,  two  pounds  of  fresh  venison  per 
day,  was  scarcely  sufficient  to  keep  us  alive.  Though  I  had 
not  an  extraordinary  appetite,  yet  I  was  continually  hungry. 

[A/>r.  ist.     No  entry.] 

Af:r.  2d.  Went  out  and  killed  one  deer  and  two  part- 
ridges. The  ice  began  to  move  opposite  the  fort  at  the  foot 
of  the  r  pids,  but  dammed  up  below.  Received  half  a  dozen 
bears  fron  oy  hunting-camp.  Launched  our  canoe  and 
brought  her  down. 

Apr.  3d.  Sent  one  man  down  to  see  the  river,  another  to 
the  camp,  and  took  two  men  myself  over  the  hills  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Mississippi  to  hunt.  In  the  course  of  the 
day  I  killed  a  swan  and  a  goose,  and  we  certainly  would 
have  killed  one  or  two  elk  had  it  not  been  for  the  sleigh- 
dogs;  for  we  lay  concealed  on  the  banks  of  Clear  river 
when  four  came  and  threw  themselves  into  it  opposite,  and 
were  swimming  directly  to  us  when  our  dogs  bounced  into 
the  water,  and  they  turned.  We  then  fired  on  them,  but 
they  carried  off  all  the  lead  we  gave  them,  and  we  could  not 
cross  the  river  unless  we  rafted  (it  being  bank-full),  which 
would  have  detained  us  too  long  a  time.  In  the  evening  it 
became  very  cold,  and  we  passed  rather  an  uncomfortable 
night. 

Apr.  4th.  Took  our  course  home.  I  killed  one  large 
buck  and  wounded  another.  We  made  a  fire  and  ate  break- 
fast. Arrived  at  the  fort  at  two  o'clock.  Was  informed 
that  the  river  was  still  shut  below,  at  the  cluster  of  [Bel- 
trami's Archipelago,  Pike's  Beaver,  and  now  the  Thousand] 
islands.  Received  some  bear-meat  and  one  deer  from  the 
camp. 

Apr.  5th.  In  the  morning  dispatched  two  men  down 
the  river  in  order  to  see  if  it  was  open.  My  hunters  arrived 
from  the  camps.     Tallowed  my  boats  with  our  candles  and 


FINAL  EVACUATION  OF  THE  POST. 


193 


launched  them  ;  they  made  considerable  water.  The  young 
[son  of]  Shawonoe  arrived  in  my  canoe  from  above,  with 
about  1,000  lbs.  of  fur,  which  he  deposited  in  the  fort.  The 
men  returned  and  informed  me  that  the  river  was  still  shut 
about  10  miles  below. 

Sunday,  Apr.  6th.  Sailed  my  peroque  with  Sergeant 
Bradley  [promoted,  vice  Kennerman  reduced]  and  two  men, 
to  descend  the  river  and  see  if  it  was  yet  open  below.  They 
returned  in  the  afternoon  and  reported  all  clear.  I  had  pre- 
viously determined  to  load  and  embark  the  next  day,  and 
hoped  to  find  it  free  by  the  time  I  arrived.  The  Fols  Avoin 
called  the  Shawonoe  arrived  and  encamped  near  the  stock- 
ade. He  informed  me  that  his  nation  had  determined  to 
send  his  son  down  in  his  place,  as  he  declined  the  voyage  to 
St.  Louis.  All  hearts  and  hands  were  employed  in  preparing 
for  our  departure.  In  the  evening  the  men  cleared  out  their 
room,  danced  to  the  violin,  and  sang  songs  until  eleven  o'clock, 
so  rejoiced  was  every  heart  at  leaving  this  savage  wilderness. 

Apr.  yth.  Loaded  our  boats  and  departed  at  40  minutes 
past  ten  o'clock.  At  one  o'clock  arrived  at  Clear  river, 
where  we  found  my  canoe  and  men.  Although  I  had  partly 
promised  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  to  remain  one  night,  yet  time 
was  too  precious,  and  we  put  off ;  passed  the  Grand  [Sauk] 
Rapids,  and  arrived  at  Mr.  Dickson's"  just  before  sun-down. 
We  were  saluted  with  three  rounds.    At  night  he  treated  all 


ill 


'-.% 


mmk 


"See  back,  note  '*,  p.  99,  Oct.  8th,  1805.  Pike's  getting  down  to  Mr.  Dick- 
son's wintering-ground  in  one  day  from  the  stockade  on  Swan  r.  confirms  the 
opinion  expressed  in  that  note  that  this  place  is  marked  too  low  on  his  map  (be- 
low Clear  Water  r.).  It  also  relieves  us  of  the  difficulty  that  seemed  to  arise 
when  we  were  told  that  Pike  did  not  pass  Dickson's  place  till  Oct.  loth,  when 
we  brought  him  up  to  St.  Cloud.  Evidently,  then,  our  adjustment  of  mileages 
and  camps  of  Oct.  8th-ioth  is  right,  and  Dickson's  place  was  at  the  foot  of  the 
Thousand  Island  cluster  (Pike's  Beaver  isls.).  The  text  of  1807,  p.  21,  speaks 
of  "the  place  where  Mr.  Rienville  and  Monsr.  Perlier  wintered  in  1797. 
Above  it  is  a  cluster  of  more  than  20  islands  in  the  course  of  four  miles,  which 
they  named  the  Beaver  islands,"  As  to  the  name  of  the  person  who  was  with  Mr. 
Dickson,  we  have  choice  of  four  :  Paulier,  as  above  ;  Perlier,  text  of  Oct.  loth, 
of  both  1807  and  18 10  eds.,  but  Paulire  on  p.  56  of  the  1807  text  ;  and  Potier, 
on  the  map.     One  Antoine  Pothier,  a  trader,  is  named  among  Laclede's  "thirty 


m\ 

i 

194 


DICKSON  AND  PORLIER'S  TRADING  HOUSE. 


my  men  with  a  supper  and  a  dram.  Mr.  Dickson,  Mr. 
Paulier,  and  myself  sat  up  until  four  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

Apr.  8th.  Were  obliged  to  remain  this  day  on  account  of 
some  information  to  be  obtained  here.  I  spent  the  day  in 
making  a  rough  chart  of  St.  Peters,  notes  on  the  Sioux,  etc., 
and  settling  the  affairs  of  the  Indian  department  with  Mr. 
Dickson,  for  whose  communications  and  those  of  Mr.  Paulier 
I  am  infinitely  indebted.  Made  every  necessary  preparation 
for  an  early  embarkation. 

Apr.  gth.  Rose  early  in  the  morning  and  commenced  my 
arrangements.  Having  observed  two  Indians  drunk  during 
t^  "  night,  and  finding  upon  inquiry  that  the  liquor  had  been 
iumished  by  a  Mr.  Greignor  or  Jennesse  [La  Jeunesse],  I 
sent  my  interpreter  to  them  to  request  they  would  not  sell 
-"xyst-f^^p- drink  to  the  Indians;  upon  which  Mr.  Jennesse  de- 
manded the  restrictions  in  writing,  which  were  given  to  him." 
Dn  demanding  his  license  it  amounted  to  no  more  than 
merely  a  certificate  that  he  had  paid  the  tax  required  by  a 
law  of  the  Indiana  territory  on  all  retailers  of  merchandise, 

associates  "  by  Billon,  Ann.  St.  Louis,  1764-1804,  pub.  1886,  p.  18  ;  and  it  ap- 
pears in  St.  Louis  archives  that  one  Isidor  Peltier  sold  a  slave  to  Louis  Blouin, 
Oct.  7th,  1767.  For  one  Pothier,  1812,  see  also  Wis.  His.  Soc.  Coll.,  XI.  p.  272. 
But  Pike's  man  is  Jacques  Porlier,  b.  1765,  Milwaukee  in  1783,  Green  Bay  in 
1791,  d.  1839:  see  Wis.  His.  Soc.  Coll.,  III.  p.  244,  VII.  p.  247,  and  Tasse. 
Les  Canadiens  de  I'Ouest,  8vo,  Montreal,  1878,  I.  pp.  137-141. 

"  This  letter  formed  Doc.  No.  10,  p.  24,  of  App.  to  Pt.  i  of  the  orig.  ed. ;  it 
is  given  beyond.  It  is  dated  Grand  Isle  («'.  e. ,  Grande  lie),  Apr.  9th  ;  by  which 
we  may  infer  this  to  have  been  then  the  name  of  the  place  where  Mr.  Dickson 
•wintered,  and  that  this  place  was  on  a  large  island.  All  indications  now  are 
that  the  wintering-place  in  question  was  on  the  foot  of  the  large  island  at  whose 
head  are  Mosquito  rapids,  and  only  a  mile  or  so  above  St.  Augusta,  as  already 
surmised  in  note  '*,  p.  100.  For  "a  Mr.  Greignor,"  see  note",  p.  181.  "A 
Mr.  Veau"  is  Jacques  Vieau  or  De  Veau,  b.  1757,  d.  1852  :  see  W.  H.  S.  C, 
XI.  p.  218.  The  October  date  above  is  provokingly  blank  for  the  day  of 
the  month.  But  I  construe  the  passage  to  mean  that  the  place  where  Pike 
now  is,  Apr.  9th,  is  also  the  place  where  Mr.  Porlier's  brother  and  Mr. 
Veau  had  wintered  1805-6.  If  so,  we  may  query  Oct.  4th  as  the  missing  date  ; 
for  though  Pike  does  not  say  that  his  camp  that  day  was  on  an  island,  the 
position  of  Dimick's  isl.,  to  which  we  then  brought  him,  is  such  that  he  can  easily 
make  Rum  r.  by  7  a.  m.  to-morrow,  if  he  keeps  on  "  some  time  "  after  leaving 
the  island  in  question,  as  he  says  he  does. 


MR.  PORLIER — QUESTIONABLE  SIOUX. 


195 


kson,  Mr. 
morning, 
iccount  of 
he  day  in 
iioux,  etc., 
:with  Mr. 
VIr.  Paulier 
ireparation 

nenced  my 
ank  during 
)r  had  been 
eunesse],  I 
Ud  not  sell 
ennesse  de- 
en  to  him." 
more  than 
ijuired  by  a 
lerchandise, 


and  was  by  no  means  an  Indian  license  ;  however,  I  did  not 
think  proper  to  go  into  a  more  close  investigation.  Last 
night  was  so  cold  that  the  water  was  covered  with  floating 
cakes  of  ice,  of  a  strong  consistence.  After  receiving  every 
mark  of  attention  from  Messrs.  Dickson  and  Paulier,  I  took 
my  departure  at  eight  o'clock.  At  4  p.  m.  arrived  at  the 
house  of  Mr.  Paulier,  25  leagues,  to  whose  brother  I  had  a 
letter.  Was  received  with  politeness  by  him  and  a  Mr. 
Veau  [Vean  of  1807  text,  p.  56]  who  had  wintered  along- 
side  of  him,  on  the  very  island  at  which  we  had  encamped 
on  the  night  of  the  [4th  ?]  of  October  in  ascending. 

After  having  left  this  place  some  time,  we  discovered  a 
bark  canoe  ahead ;  we  gained  on  it  for  some  time,  when  it 
turned  a  point  about  300  yards  before,  and  on  our  turning  it 
also,  it  had  entirely  disappeared.  This  excited  my  curiosity ; 
I  stood  up  in  the  barge,  and  at  last  discovered  it  turned  up 
in  the  grass  of  the  prairie ;  but  after  we  had  passed  a  good 
gunshot,  three  savages  made  their  appearance  from  under  it, 
launched  it  in  the  river,  and  followed,  not  knowing  of  my 
other  boats,  which  had  just  turned  the  point  immediately 
upon  them.  They  then  came  on  ;  and  on  my  stopping  for 
the  night  at  a  vacant  trading-house,  they  also  stopped,  and 
addressed  me,  " Saggo,  Commandant"  or  "Your  servant. 
Captain."  I  directed  my  interpreter  to  inquire  their  motives 
for  concealing  themselves.  They  replied  that  their  canoe 
leaked,  and  that  they  had  turned  her  up  to  discharge  the 
water.  This  I  did  not  believe ;  and  as  their  conduct  was 
equivocal  I  received  them  rather  sternly ;  I  gave  them,  how- 
ever, a  small  dram  and  piece  of  bread.  They  then  re-em- 
barked and  continued  down  the  river. 

Their  conduct  brought  to  mind  the  visit  of  Fils  de  Pin- 
chow  to  Mr.  Dickson,  during  the  winter;  one  principal 
cause  of  which  was  that  he  wished  to  inform  me  that  the 
seven  men,  whom  I  mentioned  to  have  met  [Sept.  28th] 
when  crossing  the  portage  of  St.  Anthony,  had  since  de- 
clared that  they  would  kill  him  for  agreeing  to  the  peace 
between  the  Sioux  and  the  Sauteurs ;  me  for  being  instru- 


Il'f;.:? 


196 


THE  FALLS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY. 


I  :i 


mental  in  preventing  them  from  taking  their  revenge  for 
relations  killed  by  Sauteurs  in  August,  1805  ;  and  Thomas, 
the  Fols  Avoin  chief,  for  the  support  he  seemed  disposed  to 
give  me.  This  information  had  not  made  the  impression  it 
ought  to  have  made,  coming  from  so  respectable  a  source 
as  the  first  chief  of  the  village  ;  but  the  conduct  of  those 
fellows  put  me  to  the  consideration  of  it.  And  I  appeal  to 
God  and  my  country,  if  self-preservation  would  not  have 
justified  me  in  cutting  those  scoundrels  to  pieces  wherever 
I  found  them  ?  This  my  men  would  have  done,  if  ordered, 
amid  a  thousand  of  them,  and  I  should  have  been  supported 
by  the  chiefs  of  the  St.  Peters,  at  the  mouth  of  which  were 
300  warriors,  attending  my  arrival;  also  [I  should  have 
been  justified  in  cutting  to  pieces],  the  rascal  who  fired  on 
my  sentinel  last  winter  [see  Mar.  3d,  p.  178].  I  dreaded 
the  consequences  of  the  meeting,  not  for  the  present,  but 
for  fear  the  impetuosity  of  my  conduct  might  not  be 
approved  of  by  my  government,  which  did  not  so  intimately 
know  the  nature  of  those  savages. 

This  day,  for  the  first  time,  we  saw  the  commencement  of 
vegetation  ;  yet  the  snow  was  a  foot  deep  in  some  places. 

Apr.  loth.  Sailed  at  half  past  five  o'clock ;  about  seven 
passed  Rum  river,  and  at  eight  were  saluted  by  six  or  seven 
lodges  of  Fols  Avoins,  among  whom  was  a  Mr.  [Blank], 
a  clerk  of  Mr.  Dickson's.  Those  people  had  wintered  on 
Rum  river,  and  were  waiting  for  their  chiefs  and  traders  to 
descend  in  order  to  accompany  them  to  the  Prairie  Des 
Chiens.  Arrived  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  at  ten  o'clock. 
Carried  over  all  our  lading  and  the  canoe  to  the  lower  end 
of  the  portage,  and  hauled  our  boats  up  on  the  bank.  I 
pitched  my  tents  at  the  lower  end  of  the  encampment, 
where  all  the  men  encamped  except  the  guard,  whose 
quarters  were  above. 

The  appearance  of  the  Falls  was  much  more  tremendous 
than  when  we  ascended  ;  the  increase  of  water  occasioned 
the  spray  to  rise  much  higher,  and  the  mist  appeared  like 
clouds.     How  different  my  sensations  now,  from  what  they 


THE   MINNESOTA  RIVER. 


i^enge  for 

Thomas, 
sposed  to 
jression  it 

a  source 

of  those 
appeal  to 

not  have 
\  wherever 
if  ordered, 
supported 
vhich  were 
ould  have 
lo  fired  on 

I  dreaded 
)resent,  but 
rht  not  be 
)  intimately 

tncement  of 
le  places, 
ibout  seven 
iix  or  seven 
^r.  [Blank], 
irintered  on 
traders  to 
'rairie  Des 
[ten  o'clock. 
lower  end 
e  bank.    I 
icampnfient, 
lard,  whose 

tremendous 
occasioned 
Lpeared  like 
what  they 


197 


were  when  at  this  place  before !  At  that  time,  not  having 
accomplished  more  than  half  my  route,  winter  fast  ap- 
proaching, war  existing  between  the  most  savage  nations  in 
the  course  of  my  route,  my  provisions  greatly  diminished 
and  but  a  poor  prospect  of  an  additional  supply,  many  of 
my  men  sick  and  the  others  not  a  little  disheartened,  our 
success  in  this  arduous  undertaking  very  doubtful,  just  upon 
the  borders  of  the  haunts  of  civilized  men,  about  to  launch 
into  an  unknown  wilderness — for  ours  was  the  first  canoe 
that  had  ever  crossed  this  portage — were  reasons  sufficient 
to  dispossess  my  breast  of  contentment  and  ease.  But  now 
we  have  accomplished  every  wish,  peace  reigns  throughout 
the  vast  extent,  we  have  returned  thus  far  on  our  voyage 
without  the  loss  of  a  single  man,  and  hope  soon  to  be 
blessed  with  the  society  of  our  relations  and  friends. 

The  river  this  morning  was  covered  with  ice,  which  con- 
tinued floating  all  day ;  the  shores  were  still  barricaded 
with  it. 

Apr.  nth.  Although  it  snowed  very  hard,  we  brought 
over  both  boats  and  descended  the  river  to  the  [Pike's]  island 
at  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters.  I  sent  to  the  chiefs  and 
informed  them  I  had  something  to  communicate  to  them. 
Fils  de  Pinchow  immediately  waited  on  me,  and  informed 
me  that  he  would  provide  a  place  for  the  purpose.  About 
sundown  I  was  sent  for  and  introduced  into  the  council- 
house,  where  I  found  a  great  many  chiefs  of  the  Sussitongs, 
Gens  des  Feuilles,  and  Gens  du  Lac.  The  Yanctongs  had 
not  yet  come  down.  They  were  all  waiting  for  my  arrival. 
There  were  about  lOO  lodges,  or  600  people  ;  we  were  saluted 
on  our  crossing  the  river  with  ball,  as  usual.  The  council- 
house  was  two  large  lodges,  capable  of  containing  300  men. 
In  the  upper  were  40  chiefs,  and  as  many  pipes  set  against 
the  poles,  alongside  of  which  I  had  the  Sauteur's  pipes 
arranged.  I  then  informed  them  in  short  detail  of  my  trans- 
actions with  the  Sauteurs;  but  my  interpreters  were  not 
capable  of  making  themselves  understood.  I  was  therefore 
obliged  to  omit  mentioning  every  particular  relative  to  the 


'%^ 


I 


198 


SIOUX  COUNCIL— CARVER  S  CAVE. 


rascal  who  fired  on  my  sentinel,  and  to  the  scoundrel  who 
broke  the  Fols  Avoins'  canoes  and  threatened  my  life.  The 
interpreters,  however,  informed  them  that  I  wanted  some  of 
their  principal  chiefs  to  go  to  St.  Louis ;  and  that  those  who 
thought  propel  might  descend  to  the  prairie  [Prairie  du 
Chien],  where  we  would  give  them  more  explicit  informa- 
tion. They  all  smoked  out  of  the  Sauteurs'  pipes,  excepting 
three,  who  were  painted  black  and  who  were  some  of  those 
who  lost  their  relations  last  winter.  I  invited  Fils  de  Pin- 
chow  and  the  son  of  Killeur  Rouge  to  come  over  and  sup 
with  me;  when  Mr.  Dickson  and  myself  endeavored  to 
explain  what  I  intended  to  have  said  to  them,  could  I  have 
made  myself  understood ;  that  at  the  Prairie  we  would  have 
all  things  explained  ;  that  I  was  desirous  of  making  a  better 
report  of  them  than  Capt.  [Meriwether]  Lewis  could  do  from 
their  treatment  of  him.  The  former  of  those  savages  was 
the  person  who  remained  around  my  post  all  last  winter, 
and  treated  my  men  so  well;  they  endeavored  to  excuse 
their  people,  etc. 

Apr.  I2th.  Embarked  early.  Although  my  interpreter 
had  been  frequently  up  the  river,  he  could  not  tell  me  where 
the  cave  spoken  of  by  Carver  could  be  found  ;  we  carefully 
sought  for  it,  but  in  vain.'"    At  the  Indian  village  a  few 

'"  Pike  twice  passed  directly  by  Dayton  bluff,  in  which  this  cave  was  situated 
— once  Sept.  21st,  1805,  and  again  to-day :  see  back,  note  ",  p.  75,  for  the  locality, 
and  add  ;  The  cave  which  Carver  discovered  in  1766  is  thus  described  by  him,  pp. 
39,  40,  ed.  of  1796  :  "  About  3o'[say  15]  miles  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
at  which  I  arrived  the  loth  day  after  I  left  Lake  Pepin,  is  a  remarkable  cave  of 
an  amazing  depth.  The  Indians  term  it  VVakon-teebe,  that  is,  the  Dwelling  of 
the  Great  Spirit.  The  entrance  into  it  is  about  10  feet  wide,  the  height  of  it  5 
feet.  The  arch  within  is  near  15  feet  high,  and  about  30  feet  broad.  The 
bottom  of  it  consists  of  clear  sand.  About  20  feet  from  the  entrance  begins  a 
lake,  the  water  of  which  is  transparent,  and  extends  to  an  unsearchable  distance ; 
for  the  darkness  of  the  cave  prevents  all  attempts  to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  it. 
I  threw  a  small  pebble  towards  the  interior  parts,  of  is  [it],  with  my  utmost 
strength  :  I  could  hear  that  it  fell  into  the  water,  and  notwithstanding  it  was  of 
so  small  a  size,  it  caused  an  astonishing  and  horrible  noise,  that  reverberateJ 
through  all  those  gloomy  regions.  I  found  in  this  cave  many  Indian  hieroglyphics, 
which  appeared  very  ancient,  for  time  had  nearly  covered  them  with  moss,  so 
that  it  was  with  difficulty  I  could  trace  them.     They  were  cut  in  a  rude  manner 


carver's  and  other  caves. 


199 


ndrel  who 
life.  The 
;d  some  of 
those  who 
Prairie  du 
it  informa- 
,  excepting 
le  of  those 
^ils  de  Fin- 
er and  sup 
leavored  to 
3uld  I  have 
would  have 
ing  a  better 
)uld  do  from 
savages  was 
last  winter, 
d  to  excuse 

Lr  interpreter 

ell  me  where 

we  carefully 

lage  a  few 

;ave  was  situated 
„  for  the  locality, 
•ibed  by  him,  pp. 
of  St.  Anthony, 
markable  cave  of 
the  Dwelling  of 
he  height  of  it  5 
eet  broad.    The 
ntrance  begins  a 
rchable  distance; 
knowledge  of  it. 
,  with  my  utnw*' 
tandingitw^s"' 
hat  reverberated 
an  hieroglyphics, 
with  moss,  so 
a  rude  manner 


miles  above  [read  below :  see  note  ",  p.  74]  St.  Peters  we 
were  about  to  pass  a  few  lodges,  but  on  receiving  a  very 
particular  invitation  to  come  on  shore,  we  landed  and  were 
received  in  a  lodgt  kindly ;  they  presented  us  sugar,  etc.  I 
gave  the  proprietor  a  dram,  and  was  about  to  depart,  when 
lie  demanded  a  kettle  of  liquor ;  on  being  refused,  and  after 

upon  the  inside  of  the  walls,  which  were  composed  of  a  stone  so  extremely  soft 
that  it  might  easily  be  penetrated  with  a  knife  ;  a  stone  everywhere  to  be  found 
near  the  Mississippi.  The  cave  is  only  accessible  by  ascending  a  narrow,  steep 
passage,  that  lies  near  the  brink  of  the  river."  Now  it  is  easy  to  criticise  such 
an  account,  and  those  who  wish  to  discredit  this  honest  gentleman  seize  upon 
"  amazing  depth,"  "  unsearchable  distance,"  "  horrible  noise,"  etc.  But  that  is 
unfair.  These  phrases  are  only  Carver's  /afon  de  parler  of  his  subjective  sensa- 
tions  ;  the  objective  reality  is  truthfully  and  recognizably  described.  Besides, 
one  should  be  sure  he  is  in  Carver's  cave  before  he  criticises  the  description — 
not  get  into  another  cave  and  then  find  fault  with  Carver  because  the  wrong 
cave  does  not  fit  the  right  description,  as  our  friend  Schoolcraft  did.  The  cave 
which  Carver  does  not  describe  was  not  discovered  till  181 1.  Long  visited  two 
in  181 7  ;  in  1823  Long's  second  party  visited  the  New  or  Fountain  cave,  and 
Keating  has  left  the  matter  in  such  clear  light  that  the  passage  may  be  tran- 
scribed, \.  p.  289,  ed.  of  1824:  "Above  this  village  [of  Kapoja],  there  is  a 
cave  which  is  much  visited  by  the  voyagers  ;  we  stopped  to  examine  it,  although 
it  presents,  in  fact,  but  little  to  admire  ;  it  is  formed  in  the  sandstone,  and  is  of 
course  destitute  of  those  beautiful  appearances,  which  characterize  the  caverns 
in  calcareous  rock.  It  is  the  same  which  is  described  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft ,  whose 
name,  as  well  as  those  of  several  of  Governor  Cass'  party  we  found  cu  -ved  in 
tiie  rock.  In  his  account  of  it,  Mr.  Schoolcraft  states  it  to  be  the  cavern  that 
was  visited  by  Carver,  but  adds  that  '  it  appears  to  have  undergone  a  considera- 
ble alteration  since  that  period.'  It  appears  from  Major  Long's  MSS.  of  1817, 
tliat  there  are  two  caves,  both  of  which  he  visited  ;  the  lower  one  was  Carver's ; 
it  was  in  1817  very  much  reduced  in  size  from  the  dimensions  given  by  Car\-er  ; 
tlie  opening  into  it  was  then  so  low,  that  the  only  way  of  entering  it  was  by 
creeping  in  a  prostrate  position.  Our  interpreter,  who  had  accompanied  Major 
Long,  told  us  that  it  was  now  closed  up  ;  it  was  probably  near  the  cemetery 
which  we  have  mentioned.  The  cavern  which  we  visited,  and  which  Mr.  School- 
craft describes,  is  situated  five  miles  above;  it  was  discovered  in  181 1,  and  i-? 
called  the  Fountain  cave  ;  there  is  a  beautiful  stream  running  through  it,"  c  ti-. 
I  think  very  likely  the  cave  Long  visited  in  1817,  and  thought  to  be  Carver's, 
was  really  the  smaller  one  alongside  Carver's  in  Dayton  bluff,  of  which  I  am 
informed  by  my  friend  Mr.  A.  J.  Hill,  seeing  how  "much  reduced  in  size  from 
the  dimensions  given  by  Carver"  he  found  it.  Beltrami,  II.  pp.  191-193,  goes 
on  about  Carver's  cave  in  a  way  which  makes  one  think  he  entered  no  one  of 
the  three  caves  in  this  vicinity,  but  drew  on  his  imagination  for  his  description 
after  reading  up  on  the  subject.     He  uses  the  phrase  "cave  of  Trophonius," 


300 


carver's  and  other  caves. 


'1  I'l 


I  I 


m 


I  had  left  the  shore,  he  told  me  that  he  did  not  like  the 
arrangements  and  that  he  would  go  to  war  this  summer.  I 
directed  the  interpreter  to  tell  him  that  if  I  returned  to  the 
St.  Peters  with  the  troops  I  would  settle  t  affair  with 
him.     On  our  arrival  at  the  St.  Croix,  I  fount        .it  Corbcau 

and  says  that  "  the  Sioux  call  this  cave  Whakoon-Thiiby  " — a  decideiUy  original 
way  of  spelling  it.  Featherstonhaugh  describes  his  visit  of  Sept.  12th,  1835,  to 
what  he  calls  Carver's  cave,  p.  257  of  his  Canoe  Voyage,  etc.,  pub.  1847.  Nicol- 
let,  who  is  always  to  the  point,  speaks  of  two  caves,  one  4  and  the  other  8  m. 
below  St.  Peters,  Rep.  1843,  p.  72  :  "  Doth  are  in  the  sandstone,  but  at  differ- 
ent elevations.  The  former  is  on  a  level  with  the  river,  and  is  reached  throuyh 
a  short  ravine  along  the  limpid  streamlet  that  issues  from  it.  M.iny  authors 
have  thought  this  to  be  the  cave  described  by  Cr.rver,  but  erroneously.  It 
would,  in  fact,  be  only  necessary  to  compare  the  locality  with  Carver's  descrip- 
tion, to  be  at  once  convinced.  The  cave  now  referred  to  is  of  recent  formation. 
The  aged  Sioux  say  that  it  did  not  exist  formerly.  It  has  to  them  no  ceremo- 
nial association.  They  scarcely  ever  visit  it,  and  there  are  none  of  their  hiero- 
glyphics upon  its  sides  or  floor.  It  owes  its  formation  to  the  dislocation  and 
decomposition  of  the  upland  limestone,  which  have  left  sloughy  places ;  the 
waters  of  which  have  penetrated  into  the  sandstone,  wearinr  "way,  and  giving 
origin  to  the  streamlet  which  issues  from  it.     The  locatioi  's  cave  is  on  my 

map  designated  as  the  new  cave  \Nevo  Cave],     The  sec  r  miles  below 

the  former,  is  that  described  by  Carver.  Its  entrance  has  been,  for  more  than 
30  years,  closed  by  the  disintegrated  debris  of  the  limestone  capping  the  sand- 
stone in  which  it  is  located.  On  the  3d  day  of  July,  1837,  with  the  assistance 
of  Messrs.  Campbell  and  Quinn — the  former  an  interpreter  for  the  Sioux,  the 
latter  for  the  Chippeways — I  set  about  clearing  this  entrance  ;  which,  by-the-hye, 
was  no  easy  work  ;  for,  on  the  ^th  we  were  about  abandoning  the  job,  wlien, 
unexpectedly,  we  found  that  we  had  made  an  opening  into  it ;  and  although  we 
had  not  entirely  disincumbered  it  of  its  rubbish,  I  saw  enough  to  satisfy  me  of 
the  accuracy  of  Carver's  description.  The  lake  mentioned  by  him  is  there  ;  but 
I  could  only  see  a  segment  of  the  cave,  a  portion  of  its  roof  being  too  near  the 
surface  of  the  water  to  enable  me  to  proceed  any  further.  A  Chippeway  war- 
rior made  a  long  harangue  on  the  occasion  ;  throwing  his  knife  into  the  lake  as 
an  offering  to  Wakan-tibi,  the  spirit  of  the  grottoes.  The  ascent  to  the  cave  is 
by  a  rapid  slope  ;  and  on  the  rocks  that  form  a  wall  to  the  left,  there  are  a  num- 
ber of  ancient  Sioux  hieroglyphics,  that  mean  nothing  more  than  to  indicate  the 
names  of  Indians  that  have  at  various  times  visited  this  natural  curiosity.  On 
leaving  the  cave  and  reaching  the  river,  a  stroll  of  a  few  yards  to  the  left,  by 
keeping  close  to  the  rocks,  brought  us  upon  a  sweet,  limpid  and  copious  spring 
which  had  remained  for  a  long  time  unknown  in  consequence  of  the  shingle  ami 
brush  that  conceal  its  outlet.  This  is  evidently  the  issue  of  the  waters  of  Grotto 
lake ;  and  their  abundance  indicates  that  the  lake  is  well  fed,  and  doubtless 
occupies  a  considerable  space  within  the  mountain.     On  the  high  grounds  above 


CARVER  S  AND  OTHER  CAVES. 


301 


:  like  the 
mmer.  I 
led  to  the 
iffair  with 
it  Corbcau 

.dedly  orit;inal 
12th.  1835. 10 
1847.     ^''"l- 
the  other  8  m. 
^  but  at  ilidcr- 
jacheil  through 
Many  tiulluirs 
rroneously.    It 
:arver's  descrip- 
jcent  (orniation. 
nem  no  cereino- 
!  of  their  hiero- 
.  dislocation  and 
ughy  places ;  tlic 
-way,  and  giving 
's  cave  is  on  my 
r  miles  below 
In,  for  more  than 
apping  the  s*"^* 
[ith  the  assistance 
ar  the  Sioux,  the 
rhich,  by-the-l.ye, 
[g  the  job,  when, 
and  although  we 
.  to  satisfy  me  of 
him  is  there ;  hut 

|eing  too  near  tlie 
Chippcway  waf- 
,  into  the  lake  as 
•ent  to  the  cave  is 
there  area num- 
I'an  to  indicate  the 
iral  curiosity.    On 
■ds  to  the  lctt.hy 
ind  copious  spruiR 
of  the  shingle  an>l 
,«  waters  of  Grotto 

[fed.  and  doubtless 
,igh  grounds  above 


[Little  Raven:  see  note  ',  p.  85]  with  his  people,  and 
Messrs.  Frazer  and  Wood.  We  had  a  conference,  when 
Petit  Corbeau  made  many  apologies  for  the  misconduct  of 
his  people ;  he  represented  to  us  the  different  manners  in 

the  cave  there  are  some  Indian  mounds,  to  which  the  Indians  belonging  to  the 
trilic  of  Atdewakantonwans  formerly  transported  the  bones  of  the  deceased 
memt)ers  of  their  families,"  as  is  stated  by  Carver,  Pike,  Long,  and  many  otiicrs. 
1  am  led  into  this  long  note  partly  for  the  purpose  of  setting  history  straight, 
and  partly  from  the  intrinsic  interest  of  these  Stygian  caverns,  which  I'ike  passes 
to-day  without   notice,  as  hundreds   now  do  every  day  and  will  do  until  the 
places  are  improved  ofT  the  earth.     The  cave  that  Nicollet  opened  is  the  verita- 
ble one  that  Carver  discovered  ;  it  is  right  on  the  railroad  that  skirts  Dayton  bluff, 
about  a  mile  in  an  air-line  from  Union  depot.    -The  New  or  Fountain  cave  is 
miles  away,  in  Upper  St.  Paul,  near  the  railroad  bridge  there,  unless  it  has  lately 
yielded  to  the  triumph  of  art  over  nature  and  been  effaced.  Mr.  Hill  writes  from 
St.  Paul,  Mar.  i8th,  1894  :  "  Before  the  shaving  off  of  Carver's  cave — or  rather 
before  our  civil  war — the  serpent  on  the  roof  on  the  right  hand  as  you  stood  on 
the  brink  of  the  waters  was  very  plainly  visible,  and  might  have  been  traced  by 
rubbing  or  otherwise ;  but  this  would  have  requiruil  scaffolding.     It  has  been 
remarked  that  the  serpent  was  the  totem  of  Ottahtongoomlishcah,  one  of  the 
Sioux  chiefs  of  the 'Cave  Treaty.'     I  found  by  actual  measurement  that  the 
extreme  length  of  the  lake  was  no  feet,  before  any  alteration  of  the  surface  had 
occurred."     See  also  the  article  by  Mr.  Hill  on  Mounds,  Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  Coll., 
VI.  Pt.  2,  1891.     J.  Fletcher  Williams,  in  Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  Coll.,  I.  zd  ed.  1872, 
p.  355,  notes  that  there  was  little  change  in  Carver's  cave  in  the  course  of  a  cen- 
tury, for  it  was  much  the  same  May  ist,  1867,  when  the  Historical  Society  cele- 
brated  the  centennial  of  Carver's  purported  treaty  with  the  Sioux.     "  Within 
thr  past  two  years,  however,  sad  changes  have  taken  place.     The  St.  Paul  & 
Chicago  Railroad,  having  condemned  for  their  use  the  strip  of  land  along  the 
river  bank,  including  the  bluff  or  cliff  in  which  is  the  cave,  have  dug  it  down 
and  nearly  destroyed  it.     But  a  narrow  cavity  now  remains  to  mark  its  site. 
The  pool  or  lake  is  gone,  and  the  limpid  stream  that  flows  through  it  now  sup)- 
plies  a  railroad  tank,"     But  now,  says  Mr.  Hill,  "sand  heaped  from  railroad 
cutting  has  again  backed  up  the  water  into  a  pool,  the  receptacle  of  all  filth." 
Mr.  T.  M.  Lewis'  article,  Cave-Drawings,  Appleton's  Annual  Cyclop.,  1889,  p. 
117  (reprint,  p.  3),  gives  the  exact  position  of  both  the  Dayton  bluff  caves  ;  the 
small  one,  400  feet  above  Carver's,  is  50  feet  N.  E.  of  Commercial  St.,  midway 
between  V\\m  and  Cherry  Sts.,  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff  ;  35  feet  long  on  the  floor, 
as  measured  in  1889  to  the  edge  of  the  water  in  the  rear,  24  feet  wide,  10  feet 
high— thus  about  one-third  as  large  as  Carver's.     It  had  pictographs  like  those 
of  Carver's  cave.     None  of  those  Carver  mentions  were  ever  copied  ;  his  cave 
was  in  part  demolished  by  grading  when  the  railroad  first  came  by,  and  in  the 
course  of  time  the  walls  were  scribbled  over  by  the  ubiquitous  army  of  idlers 
and  tramps  from  whose  vandalism  no  natural  formation  or  artificial  monument 
in  the  world  is  secure. 


202 


APPROACHING   LAKE   PEPIN. 


f>M( 


trm 


which  his  young  warriors  had  been  inducing  him  to  go  to 
war ;  that  he  had  been  much  blamed  for  dismissing  his  party 
last  fall,  but  that  he  was  determined  to  adhere  as  far  as  lay 
in  his  power  to  our  instructions ;  that  he  thought  it  most 
prudent  to  remain  here  and  restrain  the  warriors.  He  then 
presented  me  with  a  beaver  robe  and  pipe,  and  his  message 
to  the  general,  that  he  was  determined  to  preserve  peace, 
and  make  the  road  clear;  also,  a  remembrance  of  his  prom- 
ised medal.  I  made  him  a  reply  calculated  to  confirm  him 
in  his  good  intentions,  and  assured  him  that  he  should  not 
be  the  less  remembered  by  his  father,  although  not  present. 

I  was  informed  that  notwithstanding  the  instruction  of 
his  license  and  my  particular  request,  Murdoch  Cameron 
[see  note  ",  p.  66]  had  taken  liquor  and  sold  it  to  the  Indians 
on  the  river  St.  Peters,  and  that  his  partner  below  had  been 
equally  imprudent.  I  pledged  myself  to  prosecute  them 
according  to  law ;  for  they  have  been  the  occasion  of  great 
confusion  and  of  much  injury  to  the  other  traders. 

This  day  we  met  a  canoe  of  Mr.  Dickson's  loaded  with 
provision,  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Anderson,  brother  of 
Mr.  [George]  Anderson  at  Leech  Lake.  He  politely  offered 
me  any  provision  he  had  on  board,  for  which  Mr.  Dickson 
had  given  me  an  order ;  but  not  now  being  in  want  I  did 
not  accept  of  any.  This  day,  for  the  first  time,  I  observed 
the  trees  beginning  to  bud,  and  indeed  the  climate  seemed 
to  have  changed  very  materially  since  we  passed  the  Falls 
of  St.  Anthony. 

Sunday,  Apr.  ijth.  We  embarked  after  breakfast. 
Messrs.  Frazer  and  Wood  accompanied  me.  Wind  strong 
ahead.  They  outrowed  us — the  first  boat  or  canoe  we  met 
with  on  the  voyage  able  to  do  it ;  but  then  they  were 
double-manned  and  light.  Arrived  at  the  band  of  Aile 
Pouge  [Red  Wing  :  see  note  ",  p.  69]  at  two  o'clock,  where 
we  were  saluted  as  usual. 

We  had  a  council,  when  he  spoke  with  more  detestation 
of  the  conduct  of  the  rascals  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peters 
than  any  man  I  had  yet  heard.     He  assured  me,  speaking 


I 


COUNCIL  WITH   RED  WING  S  BAND. 


203 


of  the  fellow  who  had  fired  on  my  sentinel  and  threatened 
to  kill  me,  that  if  I  thought  it  requisite,  he  should  be  killed  ; 
but  as  there  were  many  chiefs  above  with  whom  he  wished 
to  speak,  he  hoped  I  would  remain  one  day,  when  all  the 
Sioux  would  be  down,  and  I  might  have  the  command  of 
a  thousand  men  of  them  ;  that  I  would  probably  think  it 
no  honor,  but  that  the  British  used  to  flatter  them  they 
were  proud  of  having  them  for  soldiers.  I  replied  in 
general  terms,  and  assured  him  it  was  not  for  the  conduct 
of  two  or  three  rascals  that  I  meant  to  pass  over  all  the 
good  treatment  I  had  received  from  the  Sioux  nation  ;  but 
that  in  general  council  I  would  explain  myself.  That  as  to 
the  scoundrel  who  fired  at  my  sentinel,  had  I  been  at  home 
the  Sioux  nation  would  never  have  been  troubled  with 
him,  for  I  would  have  killed  him  on  the  spot ;  but  that  my 
young  men  did  not  do  it,  apprehensive  that  I  would  be  dis- 
pleased. I  then  gave  him  the  news  of  the  Sauteurs,  etc.; 
that  as  to  remaining  one  day,  it  would  be  of  no  service ; 
that  I  was  much  pressed  to  arrive  below,  as  my  general 
expected  me,  my  duty  called  me,  and  the  state  of  my  pro- 
vision demanded  the  utmost  expedition  ;  that  I  would  be 
happy  to  oblige  him,  but  my  men  must  eat.  He  replied 
that.  Lake  Pepin  being  yet  shut  with  ice,  if  I  went  on  and 
encamped  on  the  ice  it  would  not  get  me  provision  ;  that 
he  wc  aid  send  out  all  his  young  men  the  next  day ;  and 
th?t  if  the  other  bands  did  not  arrive  he  would  depart  the 
day  after  with  me.  In  short,  after  much  talk,  I  agreed  to 
remain  one  day,  knowing  that  the  lake  was  closed  and  that 
we  could  proceed  only  nine  miles  if  we  went. 

This  appeared  to  give  general  satisfaction.  I  was  invited 
to  different  feasts,  and  entertained  at  one  by  a  person 
whose  father  had  been  enacted  a  chief  by  the  Spaniards. 
At  this  feast  I  saw  a  man  called  by  the  French  Roman 
Nose  [Nez  de  Corbeau "],  and  by  the  Indians  Wind  that 
Walks,  who  was  formerly  the  second  chief  of  the  Sioux ; 

•'  Literally  Raven's  Nose.  He  is  tabulated  by  Pike  as  Tatamane,  Nez  Cor- 
beau,  Raven  Nose,  and  Wind  that  Walks  (latter  name  a  euphemism). 


204 


A  SIOUX  PENITENT — JOSEPH  ROLETTE. 


but  being  the  cause  of  the  death  of  one  of  the  traders,  seven 
years  since,  he  voluntarily  relinquished  that  dignity,  and 
has  frequently  requested  to  be  given  up  to  the  whites.  But 
he  was  now  determined  to  go  to  St.  Louis  and  deliver  him- 
self up,  where  he  said  they  might  put  him  to  death.  His 
long  repentance  and  the  great  confidence  of  the  nation  in 
him  would  perhaps  protect  him  from  a  punishment  which 
the  crime  merited.  But  as  the  crime  was  r-rnmitted  long 
before  the  United  States  assumed  its  auti  ity,  and  as  no 
law  of  theirs  could  affect  it,  unless  it  were  ex  post  facto  and 
had  a  retrospective  effect,  I  conceived  it  would  certainly  be 
dispunishable  "  now.  I  did  not  think  proper,  however,  to 
so  inform  him.  I  here  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Rollett," 
partner  of  Mr,  Cameron,  with  a  present  of  some  brandy, 
coffee,  and  sugar.  I  hesitated  about  receiving  those  articles 
from  the  partner  of  the  man  I  intended  to  prosecute :  their 
amount  being  trifling,  however,  I  accepted  of  them,  offering 
him  pay.  I  assured  him  that  the  prosecution  arose  from 
a  sense  of  duty,  and  not  from  any  personal  prejudice.     My 

•' ' '  Dispunishable  "  is  a  good  old  word,  though  rare  and  now  obsolete  ;  but 
Pike  uses  it  in  the  opposite  of  its  meaning,  which  was  simply  ' '  punishable  "— 
for  the  pi'efex  dis-  is  here  intensive,  not  reversive  or  nugatory.  C.  D.  marks 
it  obs. ,  and  cites  in  support  of  def.  a  passage  from  the  last  will  of  Dean  Swift, 
in  a  clause  of  which  "  dispunishable  of  waste  "  occurs. 

•'Joseph  Rolette,  Sr.  There  were  various  persons  of  this  surname,  whose 
spelling  varies  as  usual.  Billon  gives  one  Michel  Rolette  as  a  French  soldier 
who  came  from  Fort  Chartres  to  Laclede's  village  (St.  Louis)  in  1764.  Pike's 
"  Mr,  Rollett "  is  the  same  man  as  Beltrami's  "  Mr.  Roulet,"  said  in  Beltrami's 
book,  II.  p.  174,  to  have  been  at  Prairie  du  Chien  in  1823,  in  the  S.  W.  Co. 
The  Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  II.  Part  2,  1864,  2d  ed.  1881,  p.  107,  mentions  "the 
notorious  Joseph  Rolette,  sen.,"  as  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  in  or  about  Feb., 
1822.  The  memf^ir  of  Hercules  M.  Dousman,  by  General  H.  H.  Sibley, 
Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  III.  1870-80,  p.  193,  speaks  of  "the  late  Joseph  Rolette, 
senior,"  as  a  partner  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  in  1826 ;  again  we  read 
there,  p.  194:  "In  1834  ...  I  formed  with  him  [Dousman]  and  the  late 
Joseph  Rolette,  senior,  a  co-partnership  with  the  American  Fur  Company  of 
New  York,  which  passed  in  that  year  under  the  direction  of  Ramsay  Crooks  as 
President";  and  once  more,  ibid.,  p.  199:  "In  1844,  Col.  Dousman  was 
united  in  marriag',  to  the  widow  of  his  former  partner  in  business,  Joseph 
Rolette,  senior,  who  died  some  years  previously," 


PASSAGE  OF  LAKE  PEPIN. 


205 


canoe  did  not  come  up,  in  consequence  of  the  head  wind. 
Sent  out  two  men  in  a  canoe  to  set  fishing-lines ;  the  canoe 
overset,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  timely  assistance  of  the 
savages,  who  carried  them  into  their  lodges,  undressed 
them,  and  treated  them  with  the  greatest  humanity  and 
kindness,  they  must  inevitably  have  perished.  At  this 
place  I  was  informed  that  the  rascal  spoken  of'as  having 
threatened  my  life  had  actually  cocked  his  gun  to  shoot 
me  from  behind  the  hills,  but  was  preverusd  by  the 
others. 

Apr.  I4.th.  Was  invited  to  a  feast  by  Roman  Nose.  His 
conversation  was  interesting,  and  shall  be  detailed  hereafter. 
The  other  Indians  had  not  yet  arrived.  Messrs.  Wood, 
Frazer,  and  myself  ascended  a  high  hill  called  the  Barn  [or 
La  Grange  ;  see  note  **,  p.  70],  from  which  we  had  a  view  of 
Lake  Pepin,  of  the  valley  through  which  the  Mississippi  by 
numerous  channels  wound  itself  to  the  St.  Croix,  the  Cannon 
river,  and  the  lofty  hills  on  each  side. 

Apr.  15th.  Arose  very  early  and  embarked  about  sunrise, 
much  to  the  astonishment  of  the  Indians,  who  were  entirely 
prepared  for  the  council  when  they  heard  I  had  put  off. 
However,  after  some  conversation  with  Mr.  Frazer,  they 
acknowledged  that  it  was  agreeably  to  what  I  had  said,  that 
I  would  sail  early,  and  that  they  could  not  blame  me.  I 
was  very  positive  in  my  word,  for  I  found  it  by  far  the  best 
way  to  treat  the  Indians.  Aile  Rouge  had  a  beaver  robe 
and  pipe  prepared  to  present,  but  was  obliged  for  the  pres- 
ent to  retain  it.  Passed  through  Lake  Pepin  with  my 
barges ;  the  canoe  being  obliged  to  lie  by,  did  not  come  on. 
Stopped  at  a  prairie  on  the  right  bank,  descending  about 
nine  miles  below  Lake  Pepin.  Went  out  to  view  some  hills 
which  had  the  appearance  of  the  old  fortifications  spoken 
of  [by  Carver:  see  note  of  the  Grand  Encampment,  p. 
59];  but  I  will  speak  more  fully  of  them  hereafter.  In 
these  hollows  I  discovered  a  flock  of  elk  ;  took  out  15  men, 
but  we  were  not  able  to  kill  any.  Mr.  Frazer  came  up  and 
passed  on    about    two    miles.      We    encamped    together. 


;:!,; 


V'?;! 


206 


WINONA  TO   PRAIRIE   DU   CHIEN. 


Neither  Mr.  Wood's  nor  my  canoe  arrived.    Snowed  con- 
siderably. 

A/>r.  i6th.  Mr.  Frazer's  canoes  and  my  boats  sailed  about 
one  hour  by  the  sun.  We  waited  some  time,  expecting  Mr. 
Wood's  barges  and  my  canoe ;  but  hearing  a  gun  fired 
just  above  our  encampment,  we  were  induced  to  make  sail. 
Passed  Aile  Prairie  [Winona :  note  ",  p. 54],  also  La  Montague 
qui  Trompe  a  [Trempe  ^]  L'eau,  the  prairie  De  Cross  [La 
Crosse],  and  encamped  on  the  W.  shore  [at  Brownsville],  a 
few  hundred  yards  below  where  I  had  encamped  on  the 
[nth]  day  of  September,  in  ascending.  Killed  a  goose  fly- 
ing. Shot  at  some  pigeons  at  our  camp,  and  was  answered 
from  behind  an  island  with  two  guns ;  we  returned  them, 
and  were  replied  to  by  two  more.  This  day  the  trees 
appeared  in  bloom.  Snow  might  still  be  seen  on  the  sides 
of  the  hills.     Distance  75  miles. 

Apr.  lyth.  Put  off  pretty  early  and  arrived  at  Wabasha's 
band  at  eleven  o'clock,  where  I  [was]  detained  all  day  for 
him  [at  Upper  Iowa  river]  ;  but  he  alone  of  all  the  hunters 
remained  out  all  night.  Left  some  powder  and  tobacco 
for  him.  The  Sioux  presented  me  with  a  kettle  of  boiled 
meat  and  a  deer.  I  here  received  information  that  the 
Puants  had  killed  some  white  men  below.  Mr.  Wood's 
and  my  canoe  arrived. 

Apr.  i8th.  Departed  from  our  encampment  very  early. 
Stopped  to  breakfast  at  the  Painted  Rock.  Arrived  at 
Prairie  Des  Cheins  at  two  o'clock,  and  were  received  by 
crowds  on  the  bank.  Took  up  my  quarters  at  Mr.  Fisher's. 
My  men  received  a  present  of  one  barrel  of  pork  from 
Mr.  Campbell,  a  bag  of  biscuit,  20  loaves  of  bread,  and 
some  meat  from  Mr.  Fisher.  A  Mr.  Jearreau,  from  Cahokia, 
is  here,  who  embarks  to-morrow  for  St.  Louis.  I  wrote  to 
General  Wilkinson  by  him."  I  was  called  on  by  a  number 
of  chiefs,  Reynards,  Sioux  of  the  Des  Moyan  [Des  Moines 
river],  etc.    The  Winebagos  were  here  intending,  as  I  was 

••This  letter  was  Doc.  No.  ii,  p.  25  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  i  of  the  orig.  ed.    It 
is  given  beyond. 


WINNEBAGO  COUNCIL — BALL  GAME. 


207 


informed,  to  deliver  some  of  the  murderers  to  me.  Received 
a  great  deal  of  news  from  the  States  and  Europe,  both  civil 
and  military. 

Apr.  igth.  Dined  at  Mr.  Campbell's  in  company  with 
Messrs.  Wilmot;  Blakely,  Wood,  Rollet,  Fisher,  Frazer,  and 
Jearreau.  Six  canoes  arrived  from  the  upper  part  of  St. 
Peters,  with  the  Yanctong  chiefs  from  the  head  of  that  river. 
Their  appearance  was  indeed  savage,  much  more  so  than 
any  nation  I  have  yet  seen.  Prepared  my  boat  for  sail. 
Gave  notice  to  the  Puants  that  I  had  business  to  do  with 
them  the  next  day.  A  band  of  the  Gens  Du  Lac  arrived. 
Took  into  my  pay  as  interpreter  Mr.  Y.  [read  J.]  Reinville. 

Sunday,  Apr.  20th.  Held  a  council  with  the  Puant  chiefs, 
and  demanded  of  them  the  murderers  of  their  nation ; " 
they  required  till  to-morrow  to  consider  it.  I  made  a  writ- 
ten demand  of  the  magistrates  to  take  depositions  concern- 
ing the  late  murders."  Had  a  private  conversation  with 
Wabasha. 

This  afternoon  they  had  a  great  game  of  the  cross  on  the 
prairie,  between  the  Sioux  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Puants 
and  Reynards  on  the  other.  The  ball  is  made  of  some  hard 
substance  and  covered  with  leather;  the  cross-sticks  are 
round  and  net-work,  with  handles  of  three  feet  long.  The 
parties  being  ready,  and  bets  agreed  upon,  sometimes  to 
the  amount  of  some  thousand  dollars,  the  goals  are  set  up 
on  the  prairie  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile.  The  ball  is 
thrown  up  in  the  middle,  and  each  party  strives  to  drive  it 
to  the  opposite  goal ;  v/hen  either  party  gains  the  first  rub- 
ber, which  is  driving  it  quick  round  the  post,  the  ball  is 
again  taken  to  the  center,  the  ground  changed,  and  the  con- 
test renewed  ;  and  this  is  continued  until  one  side  gains  four 
times,  which  decides  the  bet.  It  is  an  interesting  sight  to 
sec  two  or  three  hundred  naked  savages  contending  on  the 


**  That  is  to  say,  certain  ones  of  their  nation  who  were  murderers  of  some 
wliite  men  ;  see  Apr.  17th.  The  minutes  of  this  Winnebago  conference  formed 
Doc.  No.  12,  p.  26  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  I  of  the  orig.  ed.;  given  beyond. 

"  Doc.  No.  13,  p,  29  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  i  of  the  orig.  ed. ;  given  beyond. 


^*"l 


308 


CONFERENCES  WITH   VARIOUS  INDIANS. 


plain  who  shall  bear  off  the  palm  of  victory ;  as  he  who 
drives  the  ball  round  the  goal  is  much  shouted  at  by  his 
companions.  It  sometimes  happens  that  one  catches  the 
ball  in  his  racket,  and  depending  on  his  speed  endeavors  to 
carry  it  to  the  goal ;  when  he  finds  himself  too  closely  pur- 
sued he  hurls  it  with  great  force  and  dexterity  to  an  amaz- 
ing distance,  where  there  are  always  flankers  of  both  parties 
ready  to  receive  it ;  it  seldom  touches  the  ground,  but  is 
sometimes  kept  in  the  air  for  hours  before  either  party  can 
gain  the  victory.  In  the  game  which  I  witnessed  the  Sioux 
were  victorious — more,  I  believe,  from  the  superiority  of 
their  skill  in  throwing  the  ball  than  by  their  swiftness, 
for  I  thought  the  Puants  and  Reynards  the  swiftest 
runners. 

Apr.  2ist.  Was  sent  for  by  La  Feuille,  and  had  a  long 
and  interesting  conversation  with  him,  in  which  he  spoke 
of  the  general  jealousy  of  his  nation  toward  their  chiefs ; 
and  said  that  although  he  knew  it  might  occasion  some  of 
the  Sioux  displeasure,  ho  did  not  hesitate  to  declare  that 
he  looked  on  Nez  Corbeau  [otherwise  Raven  Nose  and 
Roman  Nose]  as  the  man  of  most  sense  in  their  nation,  and 
he  believed  it  would  be  generally  acceptable  if  he  was 
reinstated  in  his  rank.  Upon  my  return  I  was  sent  for  by 
Red  Thunder,"  chief  of  the  Yanctongs,  the  most  savage 
band  of  the  Sioux.  He  was  prepared  with  the  most  elegant 
pipes  and  robes  I  ever  saw,  and  shortly  declared,  "  That 
white  blood  had  never  been  shed  in  the  village  of  the 
Yanctongs,  even  when  rum  was  permitted  ;  that  Mr.  Mur- 
doch Cameron  arrived  at  his  village  last  autumn ;  that  he 
invited  him  to  eat,  gave  him  corn  as  a  bird  ;  that  Cameron 
informed  him  of  the  prohibition  of  rum,  and  was  the  only 
person  who  afterward  sold  it  in  the  village."  After  this  I 
had  a  council  with  the  Puants.    Spent  the  evening  with  Mr. 


»'0n  Pike's  Tabular  Abstract,  one  Red  Thunder,  Tonnerre  Rouge,  or 
Wuckiew  Nutch,  appears  as  a  Sisseton  and  "  first  chief  of  all  the  Sioux  ";  while 
Red  Cloud,  Nuage  Rouge,  or  Muckpeanutah,  is  exhibited  as  first  chief  of  the 
Yanktons, 


DUBUQUE   REACHED  AND   PASSED. 


209 


Wilmot,  one  of  the  best  informed  and  most  gentlemanly 
men  in  the  place. 

Apr.  22d.  Held  a  council  with  the  Sioux  and  Puants, 
the  latter  of  whom  delivered  up  their  [British]  medals  and 
flags.     Prepared  to  depart  to-morrow. 

Apr.  2jd,  After  closing  my  accounts,  etc.,  at  half  past 
twelve  o  clock  we  left  the  Prairie;  at  the  lower  end  of  it 
were  saluted  by  17  lodges  of  the  Puants.  Met  a  barge,  by 
which  I  received  a  letter  from  my  lady.  Further  on  met 
one  batteau  and  one  canoe  of  traders.  Passed  one  trader's 
camp.  Arrived  at  Mr.  Dubuque's  at  [mouth  of  Catfish 
Creek,  at]  ten  o'clock  at  night ;  found  some  traders  encamped 
at  the  entrance  with  40  or  50  Indians ;  obtained  some  infor- 
mation from  Mr.  D.,  and  requested  him  to  write  me  on  cer- 
tain points.  After  we  had  boiled  our  victuals,  I  divided  my 
men  into  four  watches  and  put  off,  wind  ahead.  Observed 
for  the  first  time  the  half-formed  leaves  on  the  trees. 

Apr.  2/i.th.  In  the  morning  we  used  our  oars  until  ten 
o'clock,  and  then  floated  while  breakfasting.  At  this  time 
two  barges,  one  bark,  and  two  wooden  canoes  passed  us 
under  full  sail ;  by  one  of  which  I  sent  back  a  letter  to  Mr. 
Dubuque  that  I  had  forgotten  to  deliver.  Stopped  at  dark 
to  cook  supper;  after  which,  rowed  under  the  windward 
shore,  expecting  we  could  make  headway  with  four  oars ; 
but  Avere  blown  on  the  lee  shore  in  a  few  moments,  when 
all  hands  were  summoned,  and  we  again  with  difificulty 
made  to  windward,  came-to,  placed  one  sentry  on  my  bow, 
and  all  hands  beside  went  to  sleep.  It  rained,  and  before 
morning  the  water  overflowed  my  bed  in  the  bottom  of  the 
boat,  having  no  cover  or  any  extra  accommodations,  as  it 
might  have  retarded  my  voyage.  The  wind  very  hard 
ahead. 

Apr.  25th.  Obliged  to  unship  our  mast  to  prevent  its 
rolling  overboard  with  vhe  swell.  Passed  the  first  Reynard 
village  [near  head  of  Rook  River  rapids  on  the  lowan  side] 
at  twelve  o'clock;  counted  18  lodges.  Stopped  at  the 
prairie  in  descending  on  the  left,  about  the  middle  of  the 


t; 


hi 


,1 


2IO 


ROCK  RIVER— CAPTAIN   MANY. 


rapids,  where  there  is  a  beautiful  cove  or  harbor  [Water- 
town,  Rock  Island  Co.,  111.].  There  were  three  lodges  of 
Indians  here,  but  none  of  them  came  near  us.  Shortly 
after  we  had  left  this,  observed  a  barge  under  sail,  with  the 
United  States  flag,  which  upon  our  being  seen  put  to  shore 
on  the  Big  [now  Rock]  Island,  about  three  miles  above 
Stony  [Rock]  river,  where  I  also  landed.  It  proved  to  be 
Capt.  Many"  of  the  Artillerists,  who  was  in  search  of  some 
Osage  prisoners  among  the  Sacs  and  Reynards.  He  in- 
formed me  that  at  the  [large  Sac]  village  of  Stony  Point 
[near  the  mouth  of  Rock  river]  the  Indians  evinced  a 
strong  disposition  to  commit  hostilities ;  that  he  was  met 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  by  an  old  Indian,  who  said  that 
all  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  were  in  a  state  of  intoxica- 
tion, and  advised  him  to  go  up  alone.  This  advice,  how- 
ever, he  had  rejected.  That  when  they  arrived  there  they 
were  saluted  by  the  appellation  of  the  bloody  Americans 
who  had  killed  such  a  person's  father,  such  a  person's 
mother,  brother,  etc.  The  women  carried  off  the  guns  and 
other  arms,  and  concealed  them.  That  he  then  crossed  tlie 
river  opposite  the  village,  and  was  followed  by  a  number 
of  Indians  with  pistols  under  their  blankets.  That  they 
would  listen  to  no  conference  whatever  relating  to  the 
delivery  of  the  prisoners,  but  demanded  insolently  why  he 
wore  a  plume  in  his  hat,  declared  that  they  looked  on  it  as 
a  mark  of  war,  and  immediately  decorated  themselves  with 
their  raven's  feathers,  worn  only  in  cases  of  hostility.  We 
regretted  that  our  orders  would  not  permit  of  our  punishing 
the  scoundrels,  as  by  a  coup  de  main  we  might  easily  have 

"  James  B.  Many  of  Delaware,  whose  name  occurs  in  Pike  and  elsewhere  ps 
Many,  Maney,  Manny,  and  Mary,  also  as  Mancy  in  the  text  of  1807,  was 
appointed  first  lieutenant  of  the  2d  reg't  of  Artillerists  and  Engineers  Jiiiie 
4th,  1798,  and  hence  of  Artillerists  Apr.  1st,  1802  ;  promoted  to  be  captain 
Oct.  1st,  1804,  and  major,  May  5th,  1813  ;  he  was  transferred  to  the  corps  of 
Artillery  May  12th,  1S14,  to  the  4th  Infantry  June  ist,  1821,  to  the  5th 
Infantry  Oct.  24th,  1821  ;  on  the  1st  of  Jan.,  1822,  he  was  made  lieutenant- 
colonel  of  the  7th  Infantry,  to  rank  from  June  ist,  182 1  ;  became  colonel  of 
the  2d  Infantry  July  2ist,  1834,  and  died  Feb.  23d,  1852. 


m 


KEOKUK— HANNIBAL. 


211 


[Water- 
)dges  of 
Shortly 
with  the 
to  shore 
es  above 
ed  to  be 
of  some 
He  in- 
ny  Point 
ivinced  a 
was  met 
said  that 
intoxica- 
vice,  how- 
here  they 
Americans 
\  person's 
i  guns  and 
rossed  the 
a  number 
hat  they 
ig  to  the 
;ly  why  he 
d  on  it  as 
lelves  with 
|iUty.     Wc 
punishing 
asily  have 


carried  the  village.  Gave  Capt,  Many  a  note  of  introduc- 
tion to  Messrs.  Campbell,  Fisher,  Wilmot,  and  Dubuque, 
and  every  information  in  my  power.  We  sat  up  late 
conversing. 

A/>r.  26th.  Capt.  Many  and  myself  took  breakfast  and 
embarked  ;  wind  directly  ahead,  and  a  most  tremendous 
swell  to  combat,  which  has  existed  ever  since  we  left  the 
prairie.  Capt.  Many  under  full  sail.  Descended  by  all  the 
sinuosity  of  the  shore,  to  avoid  the  strength  of  the  wind 
and  force  of  the  waves.  Indeed  I  was  confident  I  could 
sail  much  faster  up  than  we  could  possibly  make  down. 
Encamped  on  Grant's  prairie,  where  we  had  encamped  Aug. 
25th  when  ascending.  There  was  one  Indian  and  family 
present,  to  whom  I  gave  some  corn. 

Sunday,  Apr.  2yth.  It  cleared  ofT  during  the  night.  We 
embarked  early  and  came  from  eight  or  ten  leagues  above 
the  river  Iowa  to  the  [U.  S.  agricultural]  establishment  at 
the  lower  Sac  village  [at  Nauvoo,  111.,  see  Aug.  20th, 
1805]  by  sundown,  a  distance  of  nearly  48  leagues.  Here 
I  met  with  Messrs.  Maxwell  and  Blondeau ;  took  the 
deposition  of  the  former  on  the  subject  of  the  Indians' 
intoxication  at  this  place,  for  they  were  all  drunk.  They 
had  stolen  a  horse  from  the  establishment,  and  offered  to 
bring  him  back  for  liquor,  but  laughed  at  them  when 
offered  a  blanket  and  powder.  Passed  two  canoes  and  two 
barges.  At  the  establishment  received  two  letters  from 
Mrs.  Pike.  Took  with  us  Corporal  Eddy  and  the  other 
soldier  whom  Capt.  Many  had  left.  Rowed  with  four  oars 
all  night.     A  citizen  took  passage  with  me. 

Apr.  28th.  In  the  morning  passed  a  wintering-ground 
where,  from  appearance,  there  must  have  been  at  least 
seven  or  eight  different  establishments.  At  twelve  o'clock 
arrived  at  the  French  house  [Hurricane  Settlement]  men- 
tioned in  our  voyage  up,  Aug.  i6th  [see  note  '°,  that  date]. 
Here  we  landed  our  citizen  ;  his  name  was  [Blank],  and  he 
belonged  to  the  settlement  on  Copper  river.  He  informed 
me  there  were  about  25  families  in  the  settlement. 


Hi, 


212 


WILD   PIGEONS — SALT  RIVER. 


ti  - 


St,..  J 


Stopped  at  some  islands  [note  ",  Aug.  15th]  about  ten 
miles  above  Salt  river,  where  there  were  pigeon-roosts,  and 
in  about  1 5  minutes  my  men  had  knocked  on  the  head  and 
brought  on  board  298.  I  had  frequently  heard  of  the 
fecundity  of  this  bird  \^Ectopisi''S  migratorius  "J,  and  never 
gave  credit  to  what  I  then  though*  inclined  to  the  marvel- 
ous ;  but  really  the  most  fervid  imagination  cannot  con- 
ceive their  numbers.  Their  noise  in  the  woods  was  like  the 
continued  roaring  of  the  wind,  and  the  ground  may  be  said 
to  have  been  absolutely  covered  with  their  excrement.  The 
young  ones  which  we  killed  were  nearly  as  large  as  the  old ; 
they  could  fly  about  ten  steps,  and  were  one  mass  of  fat ;  their 
craws  were  filled  with  acorns  and  the  wild  pea.  They  were 
still  reposing  on  their  nests,  which  were  merely  small  bunches 
of  sticks  joined,  with  which  all  the  small  trees  were  covered. 

Met  four  canoes  of  the  Sacs,  with  wicker  baskets  filled 
with  young  pigeons.  They  made  motions  to  exchange 
them  for  liquor,  to  which  I  returned  the  back  of  my  hand. 
Indeed  those  scoundrels  had  become  so  insolent,  through 
the  instigation  of  the  traders,  that  nothing  but  the  lenity  of 
our  government  and  humanity  for  the  poor  devils  could 
have  restrained  me  on  my  descent  from  carrying  some  of 
their  towns  by  surprise,  which  I  was  determined  to  have 
done  had  the  information  of  their  firing  on  Capt.  Many 
proved  to  have  been  correct. 

Put  into  the  mouth  of  Salt  river  to  cook  supper,  after 
whic'.i,  although  raining,  we  put  off  and  set  our  watches; 
but  so  violent  a  gale  and  thunderstorm  came  on  about 
twelve  o'clock  that  we  put  ashore.  Discovered  that  one 
of  my  sleigh-dogs  was  missing. 

"  Pigeons  are  among  the  least  fecund  of  birds,  as  they  lay  only  two  eggs  at 
a  clutch,  and  that  not  oftener  than  most  other  birds.  But  Pike's  accoun'  f  their 
vast  numbers  is  not  in  the  least  exaggerated.  The  aggregate  of  individuals  in 
existence  in  the  United  States  during  those  and  for  many  later  years  defies  all 
attempt  at  calculation.  Some  single  flight?  have  been  estimated  to  include 
millions.  The  settlement  of  the  country,  and  consequent  wanton  destruction 
during  our  generation,  have  exterminated  the  wild  pigeon  in  some  regions,  and 
reduced  to  comparatively  few  its  numbers  in  others. 


t 

i 

PORTAGE   DES   SIOUX— LIEUT.   HUGHES. 


213 


out  ten 
sts,  and 
:ad  and 
of   the 
id  never 
marvel- 
lot   con- 
,  like  the 
Y  be  said 
:nt.  The 
the  oUl ; 
at;  their 
hey  were 
1  bunches 
!  covered. 
:ets  filled 
exchange 
my  hand. 
t,  through 
;  lenity  of 
vils  could 
;  some  of 
1  to  have 
pt.  Many 

[Dper,  after 

watches; 

on   about 

that  one 


two  eggs  at 

tcoun'  •  tl'^'f 
kndividuals  in 
Urs  defies  all 
led  to  intliule 
In  destruction 
regions,  and 


Apr.  2()th.  In  the  morning  still  raining,  and  wind  up  the 
river ;  hoisted  sail  and  returned  to  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
but  neither  here  nor  on  the  shore  could  we  find  my  dog. 
This  was  no  little  mortification,  as  it  broke  the  match, 
whose  important  services  I  had  already  experienced,  after 
having  brought  them  so  near  home.  We  continued  on  until 
twelve  o'clock,  when  it  ceased  raining  for  a  little  time,  and 
we  put  ashore  for  breakfast.  Rowed  till  sundown,  when  I 
set  the  watch.     Night  fine  and  mild. 

Apr.joth.  By  daylight  found  ourselves  at  the  Portage 
de  Sioux.  I  here  landed  Captain  Many's  two  men,  and 
ordered  them  across  by  land  to  the  cantonment  [Belle  Fon- 
taine, on  the  Missouri].  As  I  had  never  seen  the  village,  I 
walked  up  and  through  it ;  there  are  not  more  than  21  houses 
at  furthest,  which  are  built  of  square  logs.  Met  Lieut. 
Hughes"  about  four  miles   above  St.  Louis,"  with   more 

*  Daniel  Hughes  of  Maiyland  originally  entered  the  army  as  an  ensign  of  the 
9th  Infantry,  Jan.  8th,  1799 ;  became  a  lieutenant  that  year,  and  was  honor- 
ably discharged  June  15th,  1800.  He  was  reappointed  second  lieutenant  of  the 
2d  Infantry  Feb.  i6th,  1801,  and  transferred  to  the  1st  Infantry  Apr.  1st,  1802  ; 
promoted  to  be  first  lieutenant  Mar.  23d,  1805,  and  captain  Dec.  15th,  1808; 
became  major  of  the  2d  Infantry  Feb.  21st,  1814,  and  was  honorably  dis- 
charged June  15th,  1815.     His  subsequent  career  is  not  known  to  me. 

■"  A  sketch  of  the  early  history  of  St.  Louis  forms  pp.  75-92  of  Nicollet's  Re- 
port of  1843,  so  often  cited  in  the  foregoing  notes.  It  will  be  well  to  abstract 
here  the  main  historical  points  of  this  article,  which  is  not  so  well  known  as 
(;verything  that  Nicollet  wrote  should  be.  Some  of  the  following  items  are  ad- 
duced from  other  sources,  as  Billon's  Annals.  Louisiana  was  ceded  by  France 
to  Spain,  Treaty  of  Fontainebleau,  Nov.  3d,  1762,  ratified  Nov.  13th;  and  by 
Treaty  of  Paris,  Feb.  loth,  1763,  France  and  Spain  jointly  made  the  cession  to 
Cireat  Britain.  In  1762  or  1763  D'Abadie  was  director-general  of  Louisiana 
ad  interim,  vice  Governor  Kerlerec,  relieved.  He  licensed  Laclede,  Maxent 
(or  Maxam)  and  Co. ,  merchants  of  New  Orleans,  to  trade  up  the  river.  Pierre 
Ligueste  Laclede,  in  charge  of  the  party,  left  New  Orleans  Aug.  3d,  1763  ;  pro- 
ceeded to  St.  Genevieve  and  Fort  Chartres,  Nov.  3d  ;  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri in  Dec;  blazed  a  site  for  his  trading-post,  now  St.  Louis  ;  and  returned 
to  winter  at  Fort  Chartres,  1763-64.  He  soon  sent  to  the  spot  he  had  marked  a 
boat  with  30  persons,  in  charge  of  Auguste  Chouteau  ;  they  arrived  Feb.  15th, 
1764  (so  Nicollet),  or  Mar.  14th  (Chouteau  himself  says).  The  list  of  the 
"Thirty  Associates"  of  Laclede  given  by  Billon,  p.  17,  is  31,  with  Antoine 
Riviere,  who,  however,  did  not  go  in  this  boat,  but  drove  the  cart  which  con- 


fe    ■:   4 


i  -i  1  II 1 1 Y^-TnT: wMjinBiBBPffir  ' 


214 


NEARING  ST.   LOUIS. 


than  20  Osage  prisoners,  conveying  them  to  the  cantonment 
on  the  Missouri ;  he  informed  me  my  friends  were  all  well. 

tained  Mrs.  Chouteau  and  four  children,  and  which  was  escorted  by  Laclede  in 
person.     Chouteau  says  that  Laclede  came  there  early  in  April,  selected  a  site 
for  his  own  house,  and  returned  to  Fort  Chartres.      He  brought   his  family 
in  September,  and  established  himself  in  his  new  house.     The  settlement  was 
made,  and  at  least  eight  persons  were  added  to  the  original  number  by  the 
fall  of  1764.     The  original  name  was  Laclede's  Village.     In  Oct.,   1764,  the 
infant  colony  was  annoyed  by  begging  and  pilfering  Missouri  Indians.    D'Abadie 
died  Feb.  4th,  1765.     Neyon  de  Villiers  had  turned  over  the   command  of 
Fort  Chartres,  June  15th,  1764,  to  Louis  St.  Ange  de  Bellerive,  by  whom  it 
was  given  over  to  the  British  Captain  Stirling,  Oct.  loth  (not  July  17th),  1765, 
Stirling  died  in  three  months,  and  St.  Ange  resumed  temporary  charge  of  the 
fort,  pending  arrival  of  Stirling's  English  successor.    British  dominion  E.  of  the 
Mississippi,   already  established,  was  odious  ;    it  drove   many  persons  across 
the   river,  and  naturally  they   gathered  about  the   nucleus  Laclede  had  pro- 
vided.    By  the  end  of  1765  several  hundred  were  there  ;  law  was  needed,  .iml 
a  provisional  government  was  set  up  by  general  consent  in  the  election  or  recog- 
nition of  St.  Ange  as  governor  ;  this  was  in  effect  in  April,   1766,  with  the 
first  recorded  documer^  of  a  public  character  ;  first  on  record  being  one  filed  by 
Joseph  Labusciere,  notary,  Jan.  21st,   1766.     Laclede,  St.  Ange,  Labuseiere, 
and  Judge  Joseph  Le  Febvre  d'Inglebert  d'Brouisseau  were  the  four  persons 
most  prominent  in  moving  the  wheels  of   government  for  four  or  five  ye.irs. 
The  settlement  had  already  outgrown  all  the  earlier  ones  in  the  vicinity  and 
become   the  actual  "metropolis"    or  capital  place  in  the  country.     In  1767 
the  village  had  perhaps  80  houses,  and  several  hundred  people. .   Late  that  year 
Capt.  Francisco    Rios  or    Rivers   arrived  with   some    25  men,  sent  by  Don 
Antonio  d'  UUoa  to  take  Spanish  possession ;    he  could  not    be  conveniently 
accommodated,  so  selected  a  camp  on  the  Missouri,  14  miles  away,  where  he 
built  in  1768  Fort  Charles  the  Prince  (site  of  subsequent  Belle  Fontaine),  named 
for  the  one  who  became  in  1788  Charles  IV.  of  Spain.     Definitive  possession  of 
Upper  Louisiana  was  taken  May  20th,  1770,  by  Capt.  Piedro  Piernas,  sent  from 
New  Orleans  by  Gen.  Alex.  O'Reilly  (Oreiley  of  Nicollet),  who  had  landed 
there  at  5  p.  m.,  Aug.  i8th,  1769.     At  the  close  of  the  French  regime,  1770, 
the  village  had  100  wooden  and  15  stone  houses  ;  pop.  500.     Before  or  about 
1770,  some  other  settlements  were   made   in  the   region  roundabout ;   Blan- 
chette  the  hunter  built  his  shack  on  les  Petites  Cotes,  anrl  (I •■    nlnro  became  St. 
Charles  in  1784;  the  place  to  be  called    both  Flor    ,ant   a>.  Fer  linand 

was  started  by  Fran9ois  Borosier  Dunegan  (^  : — but  query  this  name?) 

Francois  Saucier  settled  at  Portage  des  .  he  origin  of  tl     name  P<iiii 

Court  is  said  to  be  :     In  1767,  one  Del  .ergette  settled  o       ic  W.  bank 

of  the  Miss,  r.,  6  m.  S.  of  St.  Louis,  a.  ivas  folh  ved  by  others,  all  so 
poor  that  when  they  visited  St.  Louis,  the  peopi'  then  vould  exclaim,  "  voildles 
poches  vides  qui  viennent !  "  "  Here  come  the  Empt)  I'ockets!"  "But, "says 
Nicollet,  "  on  one  occasion  a  wag  remarked,  '  You  had  better  call  them  <•'«/- 


ST.  LOUIS— END  OF  THE  VOYAGE. 


21$ 


ntonmcnt 
•e  all  well. 

y  Laclede  in 
elected  a  site 
lit  his  family 
ettlement  was 
imber  by  the 

ct.,   I7f>4. ''"-' 
ns.    D'Abadie 
command  of 
!,  by  whom  it 
ly  17th),  I7f'5. 
charge  of  the 
inion  E.  uf  the 
persons  across 
:lede   had  pro- 
as needed,  and 
Bction  or  reco;;- 
1766,  with  the 
ing  one  fded  hy 
ge,  Labusciere, 
le  four  pciMins 
J  or  five  years. 
the  vicinity  and 
ntry.     I"  1767 
Late  that  year 
I,  sent  by  l''>" 
le  conveniently 
away,  where  he 
ontaine),  named 
ve  possession  of 
jrnas,  sent  from 
'ho   had  landed 
;h  regime,  1770. 
Before  or  about 
idabout ;   Blan- 
[lare  became  St. 
Fer  linanJ 
lery  this  name  ?) 
tl     name  /''"'« 
,c  W.  bank 
others,  all  so 
:laim,  "voililes 
'     "But."  says 
call  them  f'»p- 


Arrived  about  twelve  o'clock  at  the  town,  after  an  absence 
of  eight  months  and  22  days. 

tiers  of  po/:kets ' — Us  Vide-pochts;  a  compliment  which  was  retaliated  by  them 
u|)on  the  place  of  St.  Louis,  which  was  subject  to  frequent  seasons  of  want,  by 
styling  it  Pain-Court — Short  of  Brtad."  The  Vide-pochc  place  became  Caron- 
delet  in  1776.  Laclede  died  at  the  Poste  aux  Arkansas,  June  aoth,  1778. 
On  May  6th,  1780,  St.  Louis  was  attacked  by  Indians  and  British,  and  many 
persons  (accounts  differ  as  to  numbers)  were  killed  or  captured  ;  it  became 
known  as  I'Annde  du  Grand  Coup — year  of  the  great  blow.  Similarly  1785 
was  called  I'Annde  des  Grandes  Eaux,  because  of  the  flood  in  April  when  the 
Mississippi  rose  to  an  unprecedented  height  and  inundated  the  lowlands ;  it 
is  traditional  that  Auguste  Chouteau  moored  his  boat  and  breakfasted  on  top 
of  the  highest  roof  in  St.  Genevieve.  The  year  1788  was  called  L'Annee  des 
Dix  Batteaux,  from  circumstances  of  piracy  on  the  river.  The  winter  of 
1789-90  was  notable  for  its  intensity.  There  was  no  interruption  of  Spanish 
dominion  until  the  cession  of  Louisiana  to  the  United  States  ;  see  Lewis  and 
Clark,  ed.  1893,  p.  xxxiii.  and  p.  2. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

WEATHER  DIARY  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.' 

Meteorological  Observations  made  by  Lieutenant  Pike,  on  the 
Mississippi,  in  1805  and  1806. 

Note.— These  observations  are  very  imperfect,  my  mode  of  traveling  being  such  as  to  jire- 
vent  my  making  regular  references  to  the  thermometer  ;  and  during  the  intense  cold  which 
prevailed  some  part  of  the  winter,  the  mercury  of  the  barometer  sank  into  the  bulb.  1  w.is 
also  frequently  obliged  to  be  absent  from  my  party,  whei;  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  c.irrj' 
instruments.  Those  different  circumstances  occasioned  the  omissions  which  appear  in  the 
table.  The  instrument  employed  was  Reauraer's,  but  the  observations  made  have  been 
adapted  to  the  scale  of  Fahrenheit.— Z.  M.  Pike,  ist  lieutenant. 


Date. 

Thermometer 
(degrees). 

Sky. 

Wind. 

N.  Lat. 

W.  Long. 

at 

I 

Var.      ^-0 

>un- 
ise. 

„  „  isun- 
3  ?••"•!  set. 

Course. 

Force. 

£"- 

Aug. 
6 

clear 

SSE 

fresh 

39°    i' 

15°  20' Ph. 

7°  54'     =3. 5 

7 

90 

•  .  .  • 

thunderstorm 

NW 

very  hard 

23 

8 

••■i  75 

rain 

NW 

do. 

.  .  •    ' 

....      2S.5 

9 

...1  83 

.... 

cloudy 

Sby  E 
\V 

light 

.... 

....      .'S.S 

lO 

...i  07        .... 

flying  clouds 

squally 

1  •  .  • 

....      j3 

II 

108M  !.... 

WbyS 

.... 

*  •  .  . 

....      20 

IZ 

loiii      .... 

rain 

S  by  W 
NW 

fresh 

.... 

....      29.2 

•3 

8154  ;.... 

hard  rain 

do. 

«  •  «  . 

14 

do. 

Sby  E 
NW 

do. 

'.'.'.'.      jSis 

15 

•  .  > 

88Ji  

rainy 

do. 

40°"3t' 

i5«4i' 

....       l2g 

16 

9054    — 

clear 

NW 

gentle 

....        .^0 

17 

•  •  • 

88}f   

do. 

S  E 

do. 

....       ;o.2 

18 

8iJi  1.... 

clo'idy 

NW 

strong 

t .  > . 

^c.^ 

'9 

•  .  • 

995^     ••• 

clear 

NW 

gentle 

*  • .  • 

....      30 

20 

*  •  • 

oo'A    .... 

do. 

E 

do. 

.... 

.^^ 

ai 

... 

88>,'  ;.... 

cloudy 

S  E 

fresh 

40°32'::.'' 

-9 

22 

... 

9054  :  ■•• 

clear 

Nby  W 

strong 

.... 

23 

.  .  . 

io6><     .... 

do. 

.... 

•  •  •  • 

V-) 

34 

.  •  . 

82^     .... 
8i«   

clear 

•  •  •  . 

.... 

*  •  *  . 

3" 

"5 

.  .  . 

cloudy 

Nby  W 

strong 

.... 

2 

26 

5i5<|  72}^   1.... 

rain 

Nby  W 

gale 

.... 

27 

54«    635^ 

do. 

Nby  W 

^0. 

.... 

28     isaK    61% 

.... 

do. 

Sby  E 

hard 

29     \S2%    72'A 

cloudy 

Sby  E 

fresh 

.... 

'.'.'.'.    '^i's 

30      6iJil  88}^ 

clear 

Sby  W 

do. 

.... 

....    2S 

31     1....'  92ji  1.... 

do. 

Sby  W 

gentle 

.... 

.... 

28.5 

'  In  the  orig.  ed.  these  Tables  made  five  unpaged  leaves,  bound  to  follow 
blank  p.  106,  and  thus  were  appended  to  the  main  text  of  Pike's  itinerary,  not 
put  in  the  Appendix  to  P  vrt  I.  Tt  really  makes  little  difference  v/ here  .  ^se 
Tables  go,  as  nobody  ever  reads  such  matter.  I  leave  them  where  I  fiml  then  . 
on  the  general  principle  of  interfering  as  little  as  possible  with  the  origin  il  com- 
position  of  the  book,  simply  introducing  a  chapter-head  for  their  accommoda- 
tion ;  and  shall  pass  this  thrilling  chapter  without  further  remark. 

216 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


217 


e,  on  tlic 


g  such  .15  tn  pre- 
ense  cold  which 
he  bulb.  1  was 
for  me  to  c.irr>' 
:h  appear  iii  the 
nade  have  been 


ing< 


Var. 


h.    7"  54'    23.5 
....     28 

....  2S.5 

....         28.» 
....        23 

....    ;2o 

....      29.» 

....        28.5 

....       I29 

....       ;o 
....        ;o.2 

■.".'..     ,30  " 
....      .30 

....  h 

....      29-5 
....     '31 
....      30 
....      2 

■.■.'.;  is' 5 

1        '••••  :^3 

ound  to  follow 

s  itinerary,  not 

ce  where  '.   ^se 
re  I  fmilthen.. 
e  originil  com- 

;ir  accommoda- 
narU. 

Thermometer 
(degrees). 

Sky. 

Wind. 

Date. 

N.  Lat. 

W.  Long. 

Var. 

2  % 

sun- 
rise. 

3  p.m. 

sun- 
set. 

Course. 

Force. 

|5 

Sept.  , 
I      .... 

88J< 

clear 

S  E 

fresh 

30 

3      .... 

95 

... 

do. 

S 

gentle 

•  • » • 

29.3 

3      ■••■    79K   1 

cloudy 

N\V 

do. 

•  ■  *  ■ 

28.8 

4 

77  , 

do. 

sw 

do. 

43° '44'   8' 

*  • .  ■ 

29 

5 

....!  z%y^ 

rain 

s\v 

fresh 

•  •  •  > 

27 

6 

....1  95 

clear 

Sby  E 

do. 

•  •  *  * 

37 

7 

....!  86 

cloudy 

SbyE 

dc 

• .  •  • 

28 

8 

....    99« 

... 

do. 

Sby  E 

do. 

*. . . 

29.5 

Q 

....    93K 

. .. 

do. 

S 

gentle 

•  ■  1 1 

\\\\     .28.8 

10 

....    735i   1 

rain 

Nby  W 

fresh 

■  •  *  • 

....     ' . . . . 

II 

59 

. . . 

do. 

NbvE 

hard 

13 

53)i 

do. 

Nby  E 

Ho. 

*  • . . 

....      ! .  •  •  • 

13 

50 

. . . 

do. 

N 

gentle 

•  •  •  * 

....     1. . . . 

14 

43^ 

. .  * 

clear 

S  E 

do. 

.... 

15 

fisJi 

rain 

S  E 

do. 

• . . . 

as" 

16 

.... 

77 

rising  clouds 

S  E 

fresh 

28.5 

17        .... 

65K 

rain 

NW 

h.ird 

.... 

,8    1.... 

77 

cloudy 

N  W 

gentle 

45° '44'   8' 

* .  • . 

.... 

«9 

.... 

73^ 

. . . 

do. 

S  E 

fresh 

*  ■  •  ■ 

.  •  .  • 

ac 

.... 

.  * . 

clear 

NW 

do. 

■ . . . 

28.5 

31 

4' 

77       , 

. . . 

do. 

S  E 

gentle 

* .  • . 

29 

33 

77       ! 

•  •• 

do. 

NW 

fresh 

. . .  • 

33 

8.>i 

cloudy 

NW 

do. 

.... 

28'.  5 

34 

.... 

86 

do. 

NW 

do. 

.  • .  ■ 

35 

.... 

77  , 

flying  clouds 

NW 

do. 

.... 

. . . . 

36     ! . . . . 

65Ji 

cloudy 

S  E 

do. 

37 

.... 

«5K 

do. 

S  E 

.... 

.... 

33 

.... 

% 

. . . 

rain 

SbyE 

hard 

* . . . 

is"" 

39 

cloudy 

SbyE 

fresh,  hard 

t  •  •  t 

dot. 

.... 

65M   ' 

... 

do. 

NE 

.... 

.... 

.... 

1 

50 

65K 

cloudy 

NW 

fresh 

45° 

.... 

.... 

28.5 

3 

SO 

72}i 

. . . 

r.-tin 

NW 

• .  • . 

28 

3 

32 

50 

clear_ 

NW 

.... 

* . . . 

28.4 

4 

33 

50 

tlouuy,  iiati 

I^'  V.' 

•  •  •  • 

•  1 . .             .... 

29 

5     '33 

23 

clear 

NW 

hard 

i  .  .  . 

....             • .  •  • 

29.5 

6      32 

33 

do. 

NW 

do. 

*  * . . 

.... 

29.5 

7    ^(>Vl\  50     1 

do. 

NW 

do. 

•  •  •  * 

•  • .  • 

29 

8     26       50      ! 

. . . 

do. 

S  E 

fresh 

*  •  •  • 

* . .  • 

.... 

29.5 

9      4'        --'.V,   ' 

. . . 

do. 

W  byN 

i  •  •  . 

.... 

.... 

29.5 

10      50        i'}^    ; 

wX 

do. 

Sby  W 

do. 

•  .  •  • 

t  * . . 

.  * .  i 

29.5 

II 

36«    6iV  ; 

do. 

N  by  W 

do. 

.... 

.... 

29 

13 

sSJ^i  SO     ! 

36>i; 

do. 

Nby  W 

hard 

i  .  •  * 

29.5 

«3      36        72  Ji 

)9 

do. 

S  by  W 

fresh 

*  •  .  . 

.... 

.... 

J6.3 

«4    !36       65 Ji  1 

50 

do. 

NW 

gentle 

• . .  • 

.... 

'-'9 

«5 

435i    54M 

*•   , 

cloudy,  rain 

N  by  W 

fresh 

.  •  .  • 

f .  • . 

-S.5 

16 

50    65K 

W.'i 

snow 

do. 

do. 

45°  33'    3' 

.... 

.... 

=8. 5 

'7 

41      50 

52 

do. 

do. 

do. 

I . . . 

28 

18 

43K  54K  , 

50 

cloudy 

Sby  W 

do. 

•  .  .  • 

.... 

29.5 

«9 

45M    59       1 

WA 

clear,  cloudy 

do. 

gentle 

.... 

29.8 

30 

43K,  54       , 

do. 

do. 

do 

.... 

29.5 

2[ 

23 

H     ; 

20 

clear 

do. 

do 

.... 

.... 

29 

22 

39 

^     1 
45 

33 

cloudy,  snow 

N  by  W 

do. 

28.5 

23     1  ao 

37 

23 

do. 

N  W 

do 

.... 

,39.3 

34       30 

37 

33 

do. 

NW 

do. 

•  •  •  . 

.... 

.... 

=9 

35      I16 

33 

43 

clotkdy 

do. 

•  .  .  • 

9°  icy     |?g 

36      |ll 

20 

33 

clear 

W 

do. 

•  •  .  • 

.... 

....       2g.5 

3/      130 

33 

43^ 

do. 

W 

1        do. 

.... 

.... 

....      ;  30 

38     |30 

43 

47 

do. 

NE 

do. 

45°  33'    3' 

.... 

9°  ic/  S  2^.5 

39      37 

50 

43 

cloudy,  rain 

NE 

do. 

•  • . . 

!2.> 

30       50 

53     1 

50 

do. 

1    NE 

do. 

.  *  .  . 

.... 

....      '28.3 

3'      3i     1  4.^       1 

47 

cloudy 

N 

do. 

•  •  .. 

q°  It/  S  28 

Pemarks.— Sept.  1st,  The  [Dubuque]  Mines.  Sept.  5th,  Prairie  De  Chien.  Sept.  loth, 
Barometer  below  28.  Sept.  i8th,  Lake  Pepin.  Sept.  22d,  River  St.  Peter's.  Sept.  27th,  Falls 
of  St.  Anthony.    Oct.  16th,  Pine  Creek  Rapids.     Oct.  aSth,  Pine  Creek. 


2l8 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


Thermometer 
(degrees). 

Wind. 

N.  Lat. 

W.  Long. 

Var. 

Date. 

Sky.          — 

£g 

sun- 
rise. 

3.pni. 

sun- 
set. 

C 

}urse. 

Force. 

l-S 

Nov. 

I 

36 

.... 

. . .. 

rain 

. .. 

.... 

45°  33'    3" 

28 

3 

. . .  • 

. . . . 

snow 

. . . 

.... 

3 

. . . . 

warm 

.  • . . 

fair 

. . . 

.... 

■  ■  .  . 

4 

. . .. 

fresh 

. .. . 

do.                 ] 

SE 

gentle 

■  •  •  . 

s 

. . . . 

warm 

. . . . 

do. 

.... 

■  •  •  * 

6 

■  •* . 

cool 

snow             ] 

<W 

.... 

.... 

!!! 

7 

warm 

. . . . 

hail,  rain 

do. 

.... 

•  *  .  . 

8 

. . . . 

do. 

. . . . 

light  snow 

do. 

.... 

.... 

9 

. . . . 

cold 

27 

do. 

do. 

.... 

.... 

lO 

14 

30 

20 

clear              ] 

^W 

eentle 

.... 

28" 

II 

20 

25 

25 

do.                i 

i  E 

do. 

.... 

. . . 

.... 

13 

27 

25 

27 

cloudy           ! 

5W 

do. 

•  .  •  . 

28.5 

»3 

38 

36 

38 

do. 

do. 

.... 

28.5 

14 

4« 

t  •  •  • 

. . . . 

rain 

■  >  • 

.... 

.... 

15 

47 

38 

41 

cloudy 

.... 

.... 

i6 

54 

36 

47 

do. 

•  >  ■ 

.... 

.... 

17 

47 

36 

33 

do. 

•  •  > 

.... 

.... 

i8 

36 

34 

32 

clear 

.  .. 

.... 

...» 

»9 

38 

36 

23 

do. 

•  •  ■ 

.... 

so 

38 

36 

41 

do. 

.  .* 

.... 

.... 

31 

4' 

36 

45 

.... 

•  >  • 

.... 

.  >  •  • 

33 

41 

36 

38 

.... 

... 

.... 

.... 

as 

*l 

32 

27 

.... 

•  .. 

.... 

.... 



24 

38 

34 

32 

.... 

.  •  ■ 

.... 

.... 

»5 

41 

38 

38 

.... 

..  . 

.... 

.... 

26 

38 

32 

34 

*  • .  • 

.  .  ■ 

.... 

.... 

27 

38 

38 

34 

.... 

.... 

.... 

38 

29 

43 

4< 

clear             1 

<W 

fresh 

.  •  .  • 

29 

23 

32 

36 

do. 

N 

gentle 

.... 

^3° 

16 

27 

25 

do.            N 

by  W 

do. 

....                             .... 

... 

Dec. 

I 

25 

32 

32 

snow 

3W 

gentle 

45**  33'   9" 

.... 

3 

7 

27 

16 

clear 

3  E 

do. 

.... 

3 

16 

32 

20 

do. 

3  E 

do. 

.... 

.... 

4 

20 

32 

27 

do. 

5  E 

do. 

. .  *  •               • . . « 

23 

32 

32 

cloudy 

S  E 

do. 

....         1     *.. . 



5 

25 

32 

32 

clear 

S  E 

do. 

....         1     I . . . 

7 

20 

27 

25 

do. 

S  E 

do. 

.... 



8 

16 

25 

27 

do. 

S  E 

do. 

.... 

9 

20 

25 

23 

do. 

NE 

fresh 

•  •  • . 

10 

23 

27 

39 

cloudy 

'iW 

do. 

.... 

.... 

II 

27 

43 

do. 

S  E 

gentle 

.... 

13 

29 

.... 

32 

do. 

VW 

fresh 

.... 

'3 

38 

.... 

32 

snow 

VIW 

hard 

.... 

14 

29 

.... 

7 

.... 

VTW 

do. 

.... 

15 

7 

.... 

II 

cloudy 

VW 

do. 

.... 

16 

9 

.... 

43 

clear 

s 

gentle 

•  •  • « 

'7 

30 

.... 

32 

do. 

S  F. 

do. 

i  *  .  . 

18 

36 

.... 

36 

do. 

S  E 

do. 

.  •  •  • 

19 

36 

.... 

25 

cloudy         SI 

:,NW 

fresh 

.... 

20 

25 

.... 

32 

do. 

NE 

gentle 

.... 



21 

18 

.... 

27 

do. 

VE 

do. 

.... 

33 

3 

.... 

5 

clear 

NE 

do. 

.... 

, 

23 

3 

.... 

32 

do. 

N  E 

do. 

24 

5 

.... 

27 

do. 

NE 

do. 

45°  49'  50' 

.... 

25 

27 

.... 

27 

cloudy 

NW 

do. 

26 

»3 

.... 

29 

do. 

NE 

do. 

.  .  t  • 

2; 

23 

29 

snow 

E 

do. 

.... 

23 

23 

.... 

32 

cloudy 

S\V 

do. 

.... 

29 

20 

.... 

II 

clear 

NW 

hard 

.  I  •  . 

30 

9 

II 

do. 

W 

do. 

. 

31 

9 

.... 

30 

do. 

w 

do. 

....         i     ....         '     . 

.... 

Remarks. — Nov.  2d,  Absent  from  camp.  Nov.  6th,  Thunder  and  lightning.  Nov.  uih. 
Return  to  camp.  Nov.  iith-isth,  Th.iwing.  Nov.  13th,  Smoky.  Nov.  14th,  Thunder  iuid 
lightning.  Nov.  i6th-i9th.  Freezing.  Nov.  20th-aist,  Thawing.  Nov.  22d.  Freezing.  Nov. 
a3d-27th,  Th.iwing.  Dec.  nth,  Thawing.  Dec.  12th,  Slight  snow.  Dec.  ijth.  Siorm 
Dec.  14th,  Stormy.  Dec.  i7th-i8th,  Thawing.  Dec.  lyth-asth,  Freezing.  Dec.  28th,  Very 
cold.    Dec.  31st,  Very  cold. 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


219 


Var. 


8S 


28 


1 28 
i.... 
123-5 
28.5 


Nov.  illtl. 


4th,  Thunder  :> 
1,  Freezing.    >' 
"Dec.    13th.   ?!;•'•" 
Dec.   aSth,  Ncry 


Date. 


Jan. 
I 

3 
3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 


13 
M 
»5 
16 
17 
18 

•9 


23 
«4 
as 
26 

27 
28 
29 
30 


Thermomi"ier 
(degree  j). 


3  P-n>' 


sun- 
set. 


'7A 

3 
ao 

33A 
20 

•sA 


a8A 

33A 
«9A 
6 

9 


5 

7 

I 
to 

5 

a 

8 

■7A 
>7A 


Feb. 
I 
2 
3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
II 
12 

>3     ;a3 
14      II 

•5       5 

16     I  2 

"7     !  5 

18  14 

19  :... 

20  I 

ai      14 

22        16 

»3  ;>4 

24  16 

as  II 

26  '23 

27  i6 

28  te 


»3 
25 


a? 

a7 
5 
5 

2 
•4 
14 


9 
27 

9 
14 
27 

23 


7 
16 

36 

36 

I     20 

as 
3a 
3a 


Sky. 


cloudy,  snow 
clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 
snow 
clear 


clear 
do. 
do. 
do. 


clear 

do. 

cloudy 


clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 
snow 

do. 
clear 

do. 

hail,  clouds 

clear 

do. 

do. 

sleet,  snow 

clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

;do. 

do. 


Wind. 


Course.      Force. 


NE 
E 
W 
W 
E 
W 


S  E 

ii' 


NW 

by  E 


W 
W 

NE 
S  E 
NE 
Sby  E 
NW 
NW 
S  W 


S  W 
N  W 
NW 


fresh 
do. 


hard 


N.  Lat. 


46°   1/  20" 


46°     9'  20' 

46°    g'  30' 


W.  Long. 


47°  16'  13' 


fresh 
hard 

gimt'.e 


fresh 


4b"  32'  3a 


Var. 


3°4i'W 


Remarks.— Jan.  6th,  L.ike  Sable.    Jan.  7th,  Absent  for  six  days.    Feb.  ist,  Leech  Lake. 
Feb.  22d,  White  Fish  Lake. 


■>'  1 . 


II K 


220 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


Wl 


„     1 

Thermometer 
(degrees). 

Sky. 

Wind.             1 

1 

§1 

Date. 

i   JN.  L.at. 

W.  Long.      var. 

£  = 

sun- 
rise. 

3  p.m. 

sun- 
set. 

Course. 

Force.     1 

1 

&-^ 

Mar. 

1 

X 

16 

. .  *  f 

16 

clear 

S  E 

....            .... 

•  *  • . 

....     1 .  • • 

3 

16 

■  t  * . 

30 

cloudy 

S  E 

....       1     .... 

•  • . . 

....      .  .> 

3 

30 

.... 

43 

clear 

E 

....       1     .... 

.... 

,, 

4 

30 

.... 

27 

do. 

E 

....       i     .... 

.... 

.... 

25 

.... 

29 

do. 

.... 

•••■       !45°   33'  3" 

....             

6 

36 

.... 

27 

do. 

.... 

.... 

7 

39 

4' 

37 

clear,  warm 

.... 

•  •  •  •                        •  •  *  * 

*  * . . 

8 

39 

35 

33 

cloudy 

S  E 

hard 

.... 

.... 

9 

36 

43 

4» 

clear 

S  E 

.... 

.... 

.... 

lo 

35 

25 

37 

do. 

NE 

.... 

.... 

.... 

II 

32 

36 

38 

cloudy 

S  E 

fresh     [     .... 

13 

34 

47 

38 

clear 

NW 

do.       i     . . . . 

...  1 

'3 

33 

43 

37 

do. 

NW 

....       :45»   14'  8- 

, , , ,             

14 

38 

43 

34 

do. 

NW 

fresh           .... 

.... 

15 

50 

41 

36 

do. 

N 

do.            .... 

i6 

38 

43 

36 

do. 

E 

do. 

.... 

*  1  • . 

17 

32 

32 

32 

snow 

NW 

do. 

.... 

.... 

18 

33 

33 

32 

do. 

N 

do. 

43°  44'  8- 

.... 

19 

3* 

32 

29 

do. 

NE 

do. 

.... 

30 

29 

38 

39 

cloudy 

Nby  E 

do 

.... 

31 

9 

32 

90 

clear 

NW 

do. 

.... 

22 

I 

9 

14 

do. 

NE 

do. 

•  ■  .  • 

.... 

33 

7 

32 

32 

do. 

E 

do. 

■  .  *  • 

.... 

24 

5 

25 

32 

cloudy 

NE 

.... 

*  .  .  . 

.... 

25 

25 

32 

32 

snow 

S  E 



.... 

36 

II 

25 

37 

clear 

E 

fresh 

•  •  •  » 

37 

38 

54 

43 

do. 

S  E 

do. 

,  ,  ,  , 

.... 

38 

36 

41 

43 

do. 

SW 

do. 

t  *  •  • 

> . .  t 

39 

29 

70 

54 

do. 

S  E 

do. 

.... 

• . .  • 

30 

52 

56 

43 

cloudy 

NE 

do 

.... 

Apr. 

I 

32 

61 

43 

clear 

N  E 

1 

1     .... 

.... 

39 

61 

43 

clear 

NE 

fresh          , , . . 

2 

34 

74     i  6i 

do. 

S 

hard      1     .... 

.... 

3 

45 

70     1  43 

do. 

NE 

do.        1     .... 

....        !     ... 

4 

20 

45        41 

do. 

NE 

do. 

....        '     (..•      ■•■ 

5 

29 

45 

38 

cloudy 

NE 

do. 

.... 

6 

27 

43 

36 

do. 

NE 

do. 

.... 

7 

23 

32 

snow 

NE 

•  •  •  • 

.... 

8 

4' 

•  .  •  . 

34 

cloudy 

N 

*•  .. 

*  •  • . 

9 

S 

18 

32 

clear 

NE 

•  •  •  • 

■ . .  • 

10 

5 

54 

35 

do. 

NE 

•  •  ■  •              1          ■  •  >  • 

.... 

II 

18 

32 

33 

snow 

S  E 

.... 

.... 

13 

10 

54 

43 

clear 

S  E 

t  >  *  t 

13 

32 

50 

45 

do. 

S  E 

hard 

• .  • . 

14 

33 

50 

45 

cloudy,  rain 

S  E 

.... 

.... 

IS 

34 

52 

33 

snow 

S  E 

■  •  •  • 

.... 

16 

34 

50 

41 

do. 

NW 

fresh 

.... 

»7 

34 

70        43 

clear 

NW 

do. 

.... 

18 

45 

92    ;  63 

do. 

NW 

do. 

«... 

::::  ... 

»9 

50 

99 

81 

do. 

S  E 

do. 

•  • .  • 

20 

59 

95 

79 

do. 

S  E 

do. 

31 

54 

92 

63 

cloudy 

NW 

.... 

• .  > . 

23 

43 

63 

52 

clear 

NW 

fresh 

.... 

33 

36 

72 

63 

do. 

S  E 

*  .  .  . 

.... 



^4 

43 

70 

61 

cloudy 

S  E 

hard 

* . . . 

35 

43 

54     1  47 

cloudy,  rain 

S  E 

do. 

.... 

26 

43 

50 

.... 

do. 

S  E 

do. 

.... 

11 

43 

95 

77 

clear 

NE 

eentle 

.... 

43 

Si 

72 

cloudy 

S  E 

do. 

29 

_3L 

59 

rain 

NW 

.... 

....             ..-. 

^ 

Remarks.— Mar.  ist,  Lower  Red  Cedar  Lake.  Mar.  6th,  Snow  at  night.  M.-ir.  7th,  Pine 
Creek.  Mar.  9th,  Verj'  warm;  ice  melting  fast.  Mar.  itth.  Raw  and  disagreeable.  Mur. 
I2th,  Ice  melting  fast.  Mar.  15th,  Small  snow  in  the  night.  Mar.  17th,  Sleet  and  snow.  Mar- 
x8th-i9th,  Heavy  snow.  Mar.  20th,  Thawing  at  noon  ;  water  rising.  Mar.  2Tst.  ^"'^' 
Mar.  22d,  Extraordinary  cold.  Mar.  a4th,  Sauteurs.  Mar.  asth.  Very  stormy.  Mar.  j'jin, 
Moderate.  M.-ir.  27th,  W.arm.  Mar.  28th,  W.nrm,  thunder,  lightning.  M.ir.  29th,  W.irm, 
thunder,  lightning,  rain.  Apr.  ist.  Ice  breaking  up  by  degrees.  Apr.  2d-3d,  Ice  cnmnienied 
running.  Apr.  sth,  Snow.  Apr.  6th,  River  entirely  breaks  up.  Apr.  8th,  Snow,  liail. 
Apr.  gth.  Remarkably  cold.    Apr.  nth.  Snow  falls  three  inches. 


CHAPTER  V. 


It.  Mar. -tli,i;'n« 
lisagreeablc.  M.>'- 
Tt  .-ind  snow.    >if- 

Mar.   2i^i.  <-"'*■ 

■ormy.     ^'^^..="'I' 

>Iar.  29«1''  ^^  ■"■"!! 

Id,  Ice  commcniiea 

8th,   Sno».   liail- 


CORRESPONDENCE  AND  CONFERENCES.' 

Art.  J.     Letter,  Pike  to   Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  T,pp.  i,  2.) 

Head  of  the  Rapids  de  Moyen,  Aug.  20th,  1805. 
Dear  General : 

I  arrived  here  this  day,  after  what  I  have  considered  as 
rather  an  unfortunate  voyage,  having  had  a  series  of  rainy 
weather  for  the  first  six  days,  by  which  means  all  our  bis- 
cuit was  more  or  less  damaged,  they  being  in  very  bad  and 
open  barrels ;  and  our  having  got  twice  so  fast  on  forked 
sawyers  or  old  trees  as  to  oblige  me  partly  to  unload,  and 
staving  in  a  plank  on  another  [sawyer],  which  nearly  sunk 
our  boat  before  we  got  on  shore  and  detained  us  one  whole 
day.  These  all  occasioned  unavoidable  detentions  of  two 
days,  and  the  innumerable  islands  and  sand-bars  which, 
without  exaggeration,  exceed  those  of  the  river  below  the 
Ohio,  have  been  the  cause  of  much  unexpected  delay.  But 
I  calculate  on  getting  to  Prairie  de  Chien  in  at  least  the 
same  time  I  was  in  coming  [from  St.  Louis]  here. 

We  were  met  yesterday  on  the  Rapids  by  Mr.  William 

'  Under  this  head  I  bring  all  the  matter  which  formed  in  the  orig.  ed.  the  first 
16  pieces,  Nos.  1-16,  pp.  1-34  of  the  Appendix  to  Pt.  I.  These  fall  easily 
together,  as  they  consist  entirely  of  letters  Pike  wrote  or  received  during  his 
Mississippi  Expedition — even  the  reports  of  his  Indian  coimcils  being  actually  a 
pari  of  his  correspondence  with  General  Wilkinson.  I  am  also  able  to  follow 
the  original  sequence  of  the  pieces,  with  the  single  exception  of  orig.  No.  16 
(instructions  to  Kennerman),  which  Pike  put  last  and  I  bring  into  chronological 
order  of  dates.  The  difference  of  my  Arts.  I-18  from  Pike's  Nos.  1-16  results 
frmn  my  Art.  3,  which  had  no  number  in  the  orig.  ed.  (it  being  merely  an  in- 
closure  in  Pike's  No.  2),  and  my  Art.  5,  the  Sioux  treaty,  which  Pike  did  not 
separate  by  any  sort  of  mark  from  his  No.  3,  though  it  is  by  far  the  most  im- 
portant piece  of  this  whole  lot.  The  changes  I  make  affect  the  numeration 
after  No.  2,  but  not  the  sequence  in  any  case  except  that  of  my  Art.  7  (Pike's 
No,  lO).     I  indicate  the  original  numeration  and  pagination. 


IS-  i 


222 


LETTER,   PIKE  TO  WILKINSON. 


Ewing,  who  is  sent  here  by  the  government  of  the  United 
States  to  teach  the  savages  agriculture  ;  and  who,  I  perceive 
in  Governor  Harrison's  instructions,  is  termed  an  agent  of 
the  United  States,  under  the  instructions  of  P,  Choteau, 
with,  he  says,  a  salary  of  $500  per  annum.  I  conceived  you 
did  not  know  of  this  functionary,  else  you  would  have  men- 
tioned him  to  me.  He  was  accompanied  by  Monsieur  Louis 
Tisson  Houire  [Tesson  Honors'],  who  informed  me  he  had 
calculated  on  going  with  me  as  my  interpreter ;  he  said  that 
you  had  spoken  to  him  on  the  occasion,  and  appeared  much 
disappointed  when  I  told  hi.  i  I  had  no  instructions  to  that 
effect.  He  also  said  he  hr  promised  to  discover  mines, 
etc.,  which  no  person  knew  b^-t  himself ;  but,  as  I  conceive 
him  much  of  a  hypocrite,  and  possessing  great  gasconism,  I 
am  happy  he  was  not  chosen  for  my  voyage.  They  brought 
with  them  three  peroques  of  Indians,  who  lightened  my 
barge  and  assisted  me  up  the  Rapids.  They  expressed 
great  regret  at  the  news  of  two  men  having  been  killed  on 
the  river  below,  which  I  believe  to  be  a  fact,  as  I  have  it 
from  various  channels,  and  were  very  apprehensive  they 
would  be  censured  by  our  government  as  the  authors  [of 
these  murders],  though  from  every  inquiry  they  conceive  it 
not  to  be  the  case,  and  seem  to  ascribe  the  murders  to  t! .; 
Kickapoos.  They  strongly  requested  I  would  hear  what 
they  had  to  say  on  the  subject ;  this,  with  an  idea  that  this 
place  would  be  a  central  position  for  a  trading  establishment 
for  the  Sacs,  Reynards,  lowas  of  the  de  Moyen,  Sioux  from 
the  head  of  said  [Des  Moines]  river,  and  Paunte  [Puants] 
of  the  de  Roche  [Rock  river],  has  induced  me  to  halt  part 
of  the  day  to-morrow.     I  should  say  more  relative  to  Messrs. 

'  There  were  three  persons  of  this  name  down  to  1805.  Louis  Tesson 
Honore  1st,  tailor,  b.  Canada,  1734,  d.  St.  Louis,  1807,  aged  73  ;  married 
Magdalena  Peterson,  b.  1739,  d.  St.  Louis,  1812.  The  family  came  to  St. 
Louis  from  Kaskaskia.  Among  8  children  was — Louis  Tesson  Honore  2J, 
eldest  son  ;  he  married  (i)  Marie  Duchouquette,  (2)  Theresa  Creely,  in  178S  ; 
by  the  latter  he  had  Louis  Tesson  Honore  3d,  b.  St.  Louis  about  1790  ;  mar- 
.  ed  Amaranthe  Dumoulin  ;  d.  there  Aug.  20th,  1827.  The  one  Pike  names 
V  as  no  doubt  No.  2. 


le  United 
[  perceive 
I  agent  of 
Choteau, 
eived  you 
liave  mf;n- 
ieur  Louis 
ne  he  had 
e  said  that 
ared  much 
)ns  to  that 
ver  mines, 
I  conceive 
isconism,  I 
ey  brought 
itened  my 
expressed 
n  killed  on 
3  I  have  it 
nsive  they 
authors  [of 
conceive  it 
ers  to  t'.:o 
lear  what 
a  that  this 
ablishmtnt 
oux  from 
e  [Puants] 
:o  halt  part 
to  Messrs. 

Louis  Tesson 
73  ;  married 
came  to  St. 
Honore   2d, 

;ely,  in  I'Si  ; 

ut  1790 ;  mar- 

e  Pike  names 


LETTER,  PIKE  TO  WILKINSON. 


223 


Ewing  and  Houire,  only  that   they  propose  visiting  you 

with  the  Indians  who  descend,  as  1  understand  by  your 

request,  in  about  30  days,  when  your  penetration  will  give 

you  /e  tout  enseinble  oi  their  characters  [note  ",  p.  15]. 

I  have  taken  the  liberty  of  inclosing  a  letter  to  Mrs.  Pike 

to  your  care.     My  compliments  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson, 

and  the  tender  of  my  highest  respects  for  your  lady,  with 

the  best  wishes  for  your  health  and  prosperity. 

I  am.  General, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  PiKE. 
General  Wilkinson. 


Art.  2.    Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Or ig.  No.  2,  pp.  2-4..) 

Prairie  du  Chien,  Sept.  5th,  1805. 
Dear  General  : 

I  arrived  here  day  before  yesterday,  and  found  my  inter- 
preter gone  in  the  employ  of  Mr.  Dickson.  I  then  endeav- 
ored to  gain  information  relative  to  crossing  the  falls ;  and 
amidst  the  ignorance  of  the  Canadians,  and  all  the  contra- 
diction in  the  world,  I  have  learned  it  is  impossible  to  carry 
my  large  barge  round  the  shoot  [chute].  I  have  therefore 
hired  two  Schenectady  barges,  in  which  I  shall  embark  day 
after  to-morrow,  with  some  expectation  and  hope  of  seeing 
the  head  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  town  of  St.  Louis  yet 
this  winter. 

I  have  chosen  three  places  for  military  establishments. 
The  first  is  on  a  hill  about  40  miles  above  the  river  de 
Moyen  rapids,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  river,  in  about  41°  2' 
N.  latitude.  The  channel  of  the  river  runs  on  that  shore  ; 
the  hill  in  front  is  about  60  feet  perpendicular,  nearly  level 
on  the  top  ;  400  yards  in  the  rear  is  a  small  prairie  fit  for 
gardening;  over  on  the  E.  side  of  the  river  you  na.e  an 
elegant  view  on  an  immense  prairie,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
extend,  now  and  then  interrupted  by  clumps  of  trees  ;  and, 
to  crown  all,  immediately  under  the   hill  is  a  limestone 


$1 


224 


LETTER,   PIKE   TO  WILKINSON. 


W 


m  t 

11"  i''. 


tK^i*-i"     ^^.if 


spring,  sufficient  for  the  consumption  of  a  regiment.  The 
landing  is  good  and  bold,  and  at  the  point  of  the  hill  a  road 
could  be  made  for  a  wagon  in  half  a  day.  This  place  I  con- 
ceive  to  be  the  best  to  answer  the  general's  instructions 
relative  to  an  intermediate  post  between  Prairie  de  Chicii 
and  St.  Louis  ;  but  if  its  being  on  the  W.  bank  is  a  material 
objection,  about  30  miles  above  the  second  Sac  village  at 
the  third  yellow  bank  on  the  E.  side  is  a  commanding  place, 
on  a  prairie  and  most  elegantly  situated ;  but  it  is  scarce 
of  timber,  and  no  water  but  that  of  the  Mississippi.  When 
then  thinking  of  the  post  to  be  established  at  the  Oiiis- 
cousing  [mouth  of  Wisconsin  river],  I  did  not  look  at  the 
general's  instructions.  I  therefore  pitched  on  a  spot  on  the 
top  of  the  hill  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Mississippi  [at  or  near 
McGregor,  Clayton  Co.,  la.],  which  is  feet  high,  level  on 
the  top,  and  completely  commands  both  rivers,  the  Missis- 
sippi being  only  one-half  mile  wide  and  the  Ouiscousuig 
about  900  yards  when  full.  There  is  plenty  of  timber  in  the 
rear,  and  a  spring  at  no  great  distance  on  the  hill.  If  this 
position  is  to  have  in  view  the  annoyance  of  any  European 
power  who  might  be  induced  to  attack  it  with  cannon,  it 
has  infinitely  the  preference  to  a  position  called  the  Petit 
Gris  on  the  Ouiscousing,  which  I  visited  and  marked  the 
next  day.  This  latter  position  is  '.hree  miles  up  tlie 
Ouiscousing,  on  a  prairie  hill  on  the  W.  side,  where  we 
should  be  obliged  to  get  our  timber  from  thf;  other  side  of 
the  river,  and  our  water  out  of  it ;  there  is  likewise  a 
small  channel  which  runs  on  the  opposite  side,  naviga- 
ble in  high  water,  which  could  not  be  commanded  by 
the  guns  of  the  fort,  and  a  hill  about  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  in  the  rear,  from  which  it  could  be  cannonaded. 
These  two  positions  I  have  marked  by  blazing  trees,  etc. 
Mr.  Fisher  of  this  place  will  direct  any  officer  who  may  be 
sent  to  occupy  them.  I  found  the  confluence  of  the 
Ouiscousing  and  Mississippi  to  be  in  lat.  43°  28'  8"  N. 

The  day  of  my  arrival  at  the  lead  mines,  I  was  taken  with 
a  fever  which,  with  Monsieur  Dubuque's  having  no  horses 


LETTER,  PIKE  TO  WILKINSON. 


325 


about  his  house,  obliged  me  to  content  myself  with  propos- 
ing to  him  the  inclosed  queries  [Art.  3] ;  the  answers  seem 
to  carry  with  them  the  semblance  of  equivocation. 

Messrs.  Dubuque  and  Dickson  were  about  sending  a 
number  of  chiefs  to  St.  Louis,  but  the  former  confessing  he 
was  not  authorized,  I  have  stopped  them  without  in  the 
least  dissatisfying  the  Indians. 

Dickson  is  at  Michilimackinac.  I  cannot  say  I  have 
experienced  much  spirit  of  accommodation  from  his  clerks, 
when  in  their  power  to  oblige  me  ;  but  I  beg  leave  tO' 
recommend  to  your  attention  Mr.  James  Aird,  who  is  now 
in  your  country,  as  a  gentleman  to  whose  humanity  and 
politeness  I  am  much  indebted  ;  also  Mr.  Fisher  of  this 
place,  the  captain  of  militia  and  justice  of  the  peace. 

A  band  of  Sioux  between  here  and  the  Mississippi  have 
applied  for  two  medals,  in  order  that  they  may  have  their 
chiefs  distinguished  as  friends  of  the  Americans :  if  the 
general  thinks  proper  to  send  them  here  to  the  care  of  Mr. 
Fisher,  with  any  other  commands,  they  may  possibly  meet 
me  here,  or  at  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  on  my  return. 

[Lacuna  here,  indicating  suppression  of  certain  Spanish 
privacies.] 

The  above  suggestion  would  only  be  acceptable  under 
the  idea  of  our  differences  with  Spain  being  compromised  ; 
as  should  there  be  war,  the  field  of  action  is  the  sphere  for 
young  men,  where  they  hope,  or  at  least  aspire,  to  gather 
laurels  or  renown  to  smooth  the  decline  of  age,  or  a  glorious 
death.  You  see,  my  dear  general,  I  write  to  you  like  a 
person  addressing  a  father ;  at  the  same  time  I  hope  you 
will  consider  me,  not  only  in  a  professional  but  a  personal 
view,  one  who  holds  you  in  the  highest  respect  and  esteem. 
My  compliments  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  and  my  highest 
respects  to  your  lady. 

I  am,  General, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 

General  Wilkinson. 


til 

mm 


■!i'l 


226 


•'    \ 


'^^' 


THE  DUBUQUE   INTERROGATION. 


Art,  J.   The  Dubuque  Interrogation.^     Queries  proposed  to 
Mr.  Dubuque,  with  his  answers. 

1.  What  is  the  date  of  your  grant  of  the  mines  from  the 
savages  ? 

Ans.  The  copy  of  the  grant  is  in  Mr.  [Antoine  Pierre] 
Soulard's  [Surveyor-general's]  office  at  St.  Louis. 

2.  What  is  the  date  of  the  confirmation  by  the  Spaniards? 
Ans.  The  same  as  to  query  first. 

3.  What  is  the  extent  of  your  grant  ? 
Ans.  The  same  as  above. 

4.  What  is  the  extent  of  the  mines? 

Ans.  Twenty-eight  or  twenty-seven  leagues  long,  and 
from  one  to  three  broad. 

5.  Lead  made  per  annum? 

Ans.  From  20,000  to  40,000  pounds. 

6.  Quantity  of  lead  per  cwt.  of  mineral  ? 
Ans.  Seventy-five  per  cent. 

7.  Quantity  of  lead  in  pigs  ? 

Ans.  All  we  make,  as  we  neither  manufacture  bar,  sheet- 
lead,  nor  shot. 

8.  If  mixed  with  any  other  mineral  ? 

Ans.  We  have  seen  some  copper,  but  having  no  person 
sufficiently  acquainted  with  chemistry  to  make  the  experi- 
ment properly,  cannot  say  as  to  the  proportion  it  bears  to 
the  lead. 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 
*    Dubuque  Lead  Mines,  Sept.  ist,  1805. 


Art.  4.  Speech,  Pike  to  the  Sioux*  {Part  of  Orig.  No.j,pp. 
6-8),  delivered  at  the  etitrance  of  the  river  St.  Peter's, 
Sept.2jd,  1803. 

Brothers  :  I  am  happy  to  meet  you  here  at  this  council 
fire,  which  your  father  has  sent  me  to  kindle,  and  to  take 

•  This  piece  is  the  inclosure  mentioned  in  Art.  2.     In  the  orig.  ed.  it  had  no 
number,  and  occupied  p.  5. 

*  Doc.  No.  3,  p.  6-9,  of  the  orig.  ed.  was  printed  in  a  peculiarly  misleading 


SPEECH,   PIKE  TO  THE   SIOUX. 


227 


posed  to 

from  the 
le  Pierre] 
paniards? 


long,  and 


bar,  sheet- 


no  person 
le  experi- 
t  bears  to 

M.  Pike. 


r.  No.  J,  pp- 
St.  Peters, 

this  council 
nd  to  take 

.  ed.  it  had  no 
irly  misleading 


you  by  the  hands  as  our  children,  we  having  lately  acquired 
from  the  Spanish  [read  French]  the  extensive  territory  of 
Louisiana.  Our  general  has  thought  proper  to  send  out  a 
number  of  his  young  warriors  to  visit  all  his  red  children,  to 
tell  them  his  will,  and  to  hear  what  request  they  may  have 
to  make  of  their  father.  I  am  happy  the  choice  has  fallen 
on  me  to  come  this  road  ;  as  I  find  my  brothers,  the  Sioux, 
ready  to  listen  to  my  words. 

Brothers  :  It  is  the  wish  of  our  government  to  establish 
military  posts  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,  at  such  places  as 
may  be  thought  expedient.  I  have  therefore  examined  the 
country,  and  have  pitched  on  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix, 
this  place  [mouth  of  the  Minnesota  river],  and  the  Falls  of 
St.  Anthony.  I  therefore  wish  you  to  grant  to  the  United 
States  nine  miles  square  at  St.  Croix ;  and  at  this  place, 
from  a  league  below  the  confluence  of  St.  Peter's  and  the 
Mississippi  to  a  league  above  St.  Anthony,  extending  three 
leagues  on  each  side  of  the  river.  As  we  are  a  people  who 
are  accustomed  to  have  all  our  acts  written  down,  in  order 
to  have  them  handed  down  to  our  children,  I  have  drawn 
up  a  form  of  an  agreement  which  we  will  both  sign  in  the 
presence  of  the  traders  now  present.  After  we  know  the 
terms  we  will  fill  it  up,  and  have  it  read  and  interpreted  to 
you. 

Brothers:  Those  posts  are  intended  as  a  benefit   to 

manner.  In  the  first  place  it  was  headed  in  capitals,  "  Conferences  held  with 
different  bands  of  Indians,  on  a  voyage  up  the  Mississippi,  in  the  years  1805 
and  1806,"  though  it  was  entirely  occupied  with  a  single  such  conference,  namely, 
that  with  the  Sioux,  of  Sept.  23d,  1805.  In  the  second  place,  this  major  head 
was  followed  by  an  italicised  minor  head  which  properly  covered  only  Pike's 
speech  on  the  occasion,  yet  included  the  important  terms  of  the  treaty  effected, 
as  the  latter  was  tacked  on  to  Pike's  speech  without  any  separate  heading, 
and  even  without  any  break  in  the  text.  We  must  therefore  break  orig.  Doc. 
Xo.  3  into  two  pieces,  to  be  enumerated  as  Art.  4  and  Ar»  -.  For  the 
former  of  these,  which  is  Pike's  speech,  the  orig.  minor  head  of '  -oc.  No. 
3  may  be  retained.  For  the  latter  of  these,  which  is  the  Sioux  treaty,  a  new 
head  must  be  supplied  ;  especially  as  this  is  by  far  the  most  important  result 
of  Pike's  Mississippi  voyage — perhaps  more  important  than  all  the  rest  col- 
lectively— concerning  which  there  is  a  great  deal  to  be  said. 


€ 
% 


f  I*:: 


iiilr 

!,;.'s^i.  '■'■.II,. 


ir' 


228 


SPEECH,   PIKE   TO  THE   SIOUX. 


mt: 


fS'i 


:i: 


you.  The  old  chiefs  now  present  must  see  that  their  situa- 
tion  improves  by  communication  with  t!ie  whites.  It  is  the 
intention  of  the  United  States  to  establish  factories  at  those 
posts,  in  which  the  Indians  may  procure  all  their  things  at 
a  cheaper  and  better  rate  then  they  do  now,  or  than  your 
traders  can  afford  to  sell  them  to  you,  as  they  are  single 
men  who  come  far  in  small  boats.  But  your  fathers  are 
many  and  strong;  they  will  come  with  a  strong  arm,  in 
large  boats.  There  will  also  be  chiefs  here,  who  can  attend 
to  the  wants  of  their  brothers,  without  your  sending  or 
going  all  the  way  to  St.  Louis ;  they  will  see  the  traders 
that  go  up  your  rivers,  and  know  that  they  are  good  men. 

Brothers  :  Another  object  your  father  has  at  heart,  is  to 
endeavor  to  make  peace  between  you  and  the  Chipeways, 
You  have  now  been  a  long  time  at  war,  and  when  will  you 
stop  ?  If  neither  side  will  lay  down  the  hatchet,  your  paths 
will  always  be  red  with  blood  ;  but  if  you  will  consent  to  maks 
peace,  and  suffer  your  father  to  bury  the  hatchet  between 
you,  I  will  endeavor  to  bring  down  some  of  the  Chipeway 
chiefs  with  me  to  St.  Louis,  where  the  good  work  can  be 
completed  under  the  auspices  of  your  mutual  father.  I  am 
much  pleased  to  see  that  the  young  warriors  have  halted  to 
hear  my  words  this  day ;  and  as  I  know  it  is  hard  for  a  war- 
rior to  be  struck  and  i.:>t  strike  again,  I  will  send  word  to 
the  chiefs  by  the  first  Chipeway  I  meet,  that,  if  they  have 
not  yet  felt  your  tomahawk,  it  is  not  because  you  have  not 
the  legs  or  the  hearts  of  men,  but  because  you  have  listened 
to  the  voice  of  your  father. 

Brothers  :  If  their  chiefs  do  not  listen  to  the  voice  of 
their  father,  and  continue  to  commit  murders  on  you  and 
our  traders,  they  will  call  down  the  vengeance  of  the  Amer- 
icans ;  for  they  are  not  like  a  blind  man  walking  into  the 
fire.  They  were  once  at  war  with  us,  and  joined  to  all  the 
northern  Indians ;  they  were  defeated  at  Roche  De  Brcuf, 
and  were  obliged  to  sue  for  peace ;  that  peace  we  granted 
them.  They  know  we  are  not  children,  but,  like  all  wise 
people,  are  slow  to  shed  blood. 


SPEECH,  PIKE  TO  THE   SIOUX. 


339 


eir  situa- 
It  is  the 
5  at  those 
things  at 
han  your 
ire  single 
ithers  are 
g  arm,  in 
;an  attend 
inding  or 
le  traders 
Tood  men. 
iieart,  is  to 
)hipeways. 
n  will  you 
y^our  paths 
nt  to  maka 
t  between 
Chipeway 
)rk  can  be 
her.     I  am 
halted  to 
for  a  war- 
id  word  to 
they  have 
have  not 
ve  listened 


Hrothers  :  Your  old  men  probably  know  that  about  30 
yeirs  ago  we  were  subject  to  and  governed  by  the  king  of 
the  English  ;  but  he  not  treating  us  like  children,  we  would 
no  longer  acknowledge  him  as  father ;  and  after  ten  years' 
war,  in  which  he  lost  icx),ooo  men,  he  acknowledged  us  a 
free  and  independent  nation.  They  know  that  not  many 
years  since  we  received  Detroit,  Michilimackinac,  and  all  the 
posts  on  the  lakes  from  the  English ;  and  now — but  the 
other  day — Louisiana  from  the  Spanish  [French] ;  so  that 
we  put  one  foot  on  the  sea  at  the  east  and  the  other  on  the 
sea  at  the  west ;  and  if  once  children,  are  now  men.  Yet,  I 
tliink  the  traders  who  come  from  Canada  are  bad  birds 
amongst  the  Chipeways,  and  instigate  them  to  make  war  on 
their  red  brothers  the  Sioux,  in  order  to  prevent  our  traders 
from  going  high  up  the  Mississippi.  This  I  shall  inquire 
into,  and  if  it  be  so,  shall  warn  those  persons  of  their  ill 
conduct. 

Brothers  :  Mr.  Choteau  was  sent  by  your  father  to  the 
Osage  nation,  with  one  of  his  young  chiefs.'  He  sailed  some 
days  before  me,  and  had  not  time  to  procure  the  medals 
which  I  am  told  he  promised  to  send  up ;  but  they  will  be 
procured. 

'\Vho  the  "  father"  may  be  whom  Pike  imposes  upon  the  Indians  in  liis  vari- 
OHs  powwows  is  not  always  clear.  Sometimes  President  Jefferson  appears  to  be 
indicated  ;  sometimes  General  Wilkinson  ;  sometimes  Pike  himself.  In  the 
present  instance  it  is  General  Wilkinson,  and  the  Osage  mif^sion  in  mention  is 
that  upon  which  Lieutenant  George  Peter  had  been  detai'.ed  by  the  general. 
This  appears  in  a  letter  from  General  Wilkinson  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  dated 
St.  Louis,  Aug.  25th,  1805,  now  on  file  in  the  War  Department,  and  in  the  fol- 
lowing extract :  "I  find  our  parties  under  Lieuts.  Pike  and  Peter  are  making 
rapid  progress  on  their  routes.  Pike  had  ascended  the  Mississippi  150  miles  on 
the  fifili  day  after  he  left  this  place,  and  I  have  just  received  a  letter  from  Peters 
[sii]  dated  the  19th  inst.,  150  miles  up  the  Osage  River,  altho' he  left  S*- 
Charles,  25  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  loth  inst.  and  had 
been  obstructed  by  almost  incessant  rains  and  consequent  high  waters.  He  is 
charmed  with  the  river  and  its  banks,  which  He  reports  to  be  far  superior 
tn  those  of  the  Ohio  in  beauty  and  fertility — Independent  of  the  immediate 
objects  of  these  parties,  they  serve  to  instruct  our  young  officers  and  also  our 
soldiery,  on  subjects  which  may  hereafter  become  interesting  to  the  United 
States,"      George    Peter   of   Maryland  was    appointed    from    the    Distri.i.   of 


230 


SPEECH,   PIKE   TC   THE  SIOUX. 


Brothers  :  I  wish  you  to  have  some  of  your  head  chiefs 
ready  to  go  down  with  me  in  the  spring.  From  the  head  of 
the  St.  Pierre  also,  such  other  chiefs  as  you  may  think  proper, 
to  the  number  of  four  or  five.  When  I  pass  here  on  iny  way 
I  will  send  you  word  at  what  time  you  will  meet  me  at  the 
Prairie  des  Chiens. 

Brothers  :  I  expect  that  you  will  give  orders  to  all  your 
young  warriors  to  respect  my  flag,  and  its  protection  which 
I  may  extend  to  the  Chipeway  chiefs  who  may  come  down 
with  me  in  the  spring ;  for  were  a  dog  to  run  to  my  lodt,re 
for  safety,  his  enemy  must  walk  over  me  to  hurt  him. 

Brothers  :  Here  is  a  flag,  which  I  wish  to  send  to  the 
Gens  de  Feuilles,  to  show  them  they  are  not  forgotten  by 
their  father.  I  wish  the  comrade  of  their  chief  to  take  it  on 
himself  to  deliver  it  with  my  words. 

Brothers  :  I  am  told  that  hitherto  the  traders  have  made 
a  practice  of  selling  rum  to  you.  All  of  you  in  j^our  right 
senses  must  know  that  it  is  injurious,  and  occasions  quar- 
rels, murders,  etc.,  amongst  yourselves.  For  this  reason 
your  father  has  thought  proper  to  prohibit  the  traders  from 
selling  you  any  rum.  Therefore,  I  hope  my  brothers  the 
chiefs,  when  they  know  of  a  trader  who  sells  an  Indian  rum, 
will  prevent  that  Indian  from  paying  his  [that  trader's] 
cedit.  This  will  break  up  the  pernicious  practice  and  oblige 
your  father.  But  I  hope  ou  will  not  encourage  your  young 
men  to  treat  our  traders  ill  from  this  circumstance,  or  from 
a  hope  of  the  indulgence  formerly  experienced  ;  but  make 
your  complaints  to  persons  in  this  country,  who  will  be 
authorized  to  do  you  justice. 

Brothers  :  I  now  present  you  with  some  of  your  father's 
tobacco  and  other  trifling  things,  as  a  memorandum  of  my 
good  will ;  and  before  my  departure  I  will  give  you  some 
liquor  to  clear  your  throats. 

Columbia  'o  be  a  second  lieutenant  of  the  qth  Infantry,  July  1 2th,  lygo. 
and  hor,Oi"l)ly  discharged  June  15th,  1800  ;  he  was  appointed  lieutenant  of 
Artillerists  and  Engineers,  Feb.  i6th,  1801  ;  of  Artillerists,  Apr.  ist,  1S02  ; 
became  captain,  Nov.  3d,  1807  ;  was  transferred  to  the  Light  .\rtillery  in 
May,  1,08;    resigned,   June  nth,   1809;  and  died  June  22d,   1861. 


THE  SIOUX  TREATY. 


231 


ad  chiefs 
e  head  of 
k  proper, 
1  iiiy  way 
ne  at  the 

o  all  your 
ion  which 
ime  down 
my  lodge 
lim. 

md  to  the 
gotten  by 
)  take  it  on 

have  made 
your  right 
sions  quar- 
;his    reason 
aders  from 
rothers  the 
ndian  rum, 
trader's] 
and  oblige 
yrour  young 
ce,  or  from 
but  make 
10  will  be 

)ur  father's 
um  of  my 

you  sumo 

ly   I2th,    1790. 
lieutenant  of 

w.    ist,   i?'i-  '■ 
It  Artillery  in 

S61. 


Art  j.     The  Sioux   Treaty"  of  Sept.  2jd,  1803.     {Part  of 
Orig.  No.  J,  pp.  8,  9.) 

Whereas,  at  a  conference  held  between  the  United  States 
of  America  and  the  Sioux  nation  of  Indians:  lieutenant 
Z.  M.  Pike,  of  the  army  of  the  United  States,  and  the  chiefs 
and  the  -varriors  of  said  tribe,  have  agreed  to  the  following 
articles,  which,  when  ratified  and  approved  of  by  the  proper 
authority,  shall  be  binding  on  both  parties. 

Art.  I.  That  the  Sioux  nation  grant  unto  the  United 
States,  for  the  purpose  of  establishment  of  military  posts, 
nine  miles  square  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix,*  also  from 
below  the  confluence  of  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Peters  up 
the  Mississippi  to  include  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  extend- 
ing nine  miles  on  each  side  of  the  river,  that  the  Sioux 
nation  grants  to  the  United  States  the  full  sovereignty  and 
power  over  said  district  for  ever. 

Art.  3.  That,  in  consideration  of  the  above  grants,  the 
United  States  shall  pay  (filled  up  by  the  senate  with  2000 
dollars.) 

Art.  J.  The  United  States  promise,  on  their  part,  to  per- 
mit the  Sioux  to  pass  and  repass,  hunt,  or  make  other  use  of 
the  said  districts  as  they  have  formerly  done  without  any 
other  exception  than  those  specified  in  article  first. 

In  testimony  whereof  we,  the  undersigned, 
have  hereunto  set  our  hands  and  seals,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Peters,  on  the 
23d  day  of  September,  1805. 

Z.  M.  Pike,  ist  lieut.  (L.  S.) 

and  acrent  at  the  above  conference. 


Le  Petit  Corbeau, 


Way  Ago  Enagee, 


liis 

X 

mark 


a. 


S.) 


his 

X     (L.  S.) 

ni.iik 


*My  demand  was  one  league  below:    their  re])ly  was   "from    below." — I 
imai;ine  (without  iniquity)  they  may  be  made  to  ar;rec.     [Orig.  Note.] 
''As  explained  in  note  ',  p.  221,  this  article  rei|uires  separation  from  Art.  4, 


i" 


232 


THE   SIOUX   TREATY  NOTED, 


!!i; 


t: 


^¥?t 


Art.  6.     Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson,     {Orig.  No.  4, pp.  g-ij.) 

St.  Peters,  Nine  Miles  below  the  Falls 
OF  St.  Anthony,  Sept.  23d,  1805. 
Dear  General : 

I  arrived  here  two  days  since,  but  shall  not  be  able  to 
depart  before  day  after  to-morrow.  Three  of  my  men  have 
been  up  to  view  the  falls,  but  their  reports  are  so  contradic- 
tory that  no  opinion  can  be  formed  from  them. 

from  which  it  i^  .otally  distinct,  though  the  two  form  undistinguished  pai.-,of 
one  Doc.  No.  3,  of  the  orig.  ed.  I  accordingly  set  them  apart,  and  supply  a 
new  heading  for  Art.  5  ;  but  I  reprint  the  latter  precisely  as  it  stands  in  the 
orig.  ed.,  for  reasons  which  will  presently  appear.  As  origina.  draftel  liy 
Pike,  and  by  him  communicated  to  Gener.il  Wilkinson  under  cover  of  a  kiter 
of  equal  date,  it  appears  to  have  been  "  scarcely  legible,"  as  the  general  informs 
the  Secretary  of  War  in  a  letter  before  me  (see  Art.  6).  I  doubt  that  this  extra- 
ordinary document  ever  existed  in  a  form  which  might  not  be  set  aside  as  f.itally 
defective  ;  and  I  do  not  doubt  th-i.t  we  acquired  legal  title  to  the  lands  by  some 
means  subsequent  to  this  invalid  instrument.  The  probability  is  thai  upon  due 
and  sufficient  investigation  of  points  of  law  involved  it  would  appear  that  the 
supjiosed  cession  of  lands  was  not  a  legally  accomplished  fact  until  made  such 
by  later  negotiation  or  legislation,  with  which  we  have  here  nothing  to  do.  The 
following  argument  concerning  Pike's  treaty,  as  simply  a  starting-point  for  fur- 
ther steps  in  the  transaction,  was  submitted  in  the  press-proofs  to  my  rtl.uive 
James  M.  Flower,  Esq.,  of  Chicago,  who  had  no  material  modification  to 
suggest. 

Let  us  fu.-.;  examine  that  version  of  the  document  which  Pike  presents  upon 
his  own  page,  and  which  is  therefore  presumably  authentic. 

1.  The  preamble  recites  that  a  conference  was  held  "between  the  United 
States  of  .\merica  and  the  Sioux  nation  of  Indians."  But  it  does  not  appe.u 
that  either  of  the  alleged  parties  to  the  transaction  was  officially  and  legally 
represented.  The  Sioux  nation  consisted  in  1805  of  at  le.ist  seven  tribes,  only 
one  of  which  was  concerned  in  the  affair  ;  and  if  only  the  consent  of  this  one 
tribe  was  required  to  effect  the  cession  the  conference  is  erroneously  described. 
Furthermore,  it  does  not  appear  by  what  authority  Pike  assumed  to  rejirc-cnt 
the  United  States.  He  signs  himself  "  agent "  at  the  conference.  Agent  of 
whom  or  of  what  ?  He  was  certainly  not  an  Indian  agent,  empowered  by  the 
United  St-ttes  to  effect  treaties  with  aliens  ;  and  though  it  is  true  tl.  t  lie  was 
instructed  by  his  military  superior  to  obtain  if  possible  certain  cessions,  among 
which  was  the  cession  of  land  at  and  near  the  mouth  of  .St.  Peter's  r.,  the 
question  recurs  whether  General  Wilkinson  was  competent  to  issue  military 
orders  to  that  effect  without  the  .luthority  of  the  government ;  and  no  suih 
authority  is  expressed  or  necessarily  imjilied  in  the  terms  of  the  alleged  treaty. 

2.  Art.  I,  which  ostensibly  declares  what  lands  were  supposed  to  be  ceded, 


THE    SIOUX    TREATV   NOTED. 


233 


!>/>.  9-/J.) 

;  Falls 
-05. 

e  able  to 
men  liave 
contradic- 


shed  pa:  .-of 
and  supply  ^ 
stands  in  the 
drafted  liy 
er  of  a  letter 
?neral  infiirnis 
;hat  this  extra- 
jside  as  fatally 
lands  by  some 
that  upon  due 
ippear  that  the 
ntil  made  such 
ng  to  do.     The 
g-point  for  fur- 
,  to  my  relative 
modification  to 

presents  upon 

leen  the  Ur.iteil 
|oes  not  apiK-ar 
lly  and  U-ally 
en  tribes,  ''nly 
lent  of  this  one 
aisly  described. 
led  to  represent 
nee.     Agent  of 
powered  bv  the 
•ue  tb  t  he  was 
:essions,  among 
Peter's  i .,  the 
issue  niiUtary 
;  and  no  such 
Ueged  treaty. 
Id  to  be  ceded, 


All  the  young  warriors  of  the  two  villages  of  Sioux  near 
this  place,  and  many  chiefs,  had  marched  against  the  Chipe- 

does  in  fact  declare  or  describe  no  such  lands  sufficiently  or  recognizably,  and 
is  furthermore  vitiated  by  a  blunder  which  would  constitute  a  fatal  flaw  in  the 
title,  if  contested.  (</)  "  Nine  miles  square  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix,"  is 
in  the  first  place  an  impossibility,  because  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix  has  no 
such  dimensions  ;  and  in  the  second  place  may  mean  either  a  tract  of  81  square 
miles,  whose  center  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  said  liver,  or  any  one  of  four  or 
more  square  tracts  of  the  said  extent,  any  one  of  whose  angles,  or  any  indetermined 
point  of  one  of  whose  sides,  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  said  river  ;  and  in  no  one  of 
these  contingencies  is  the  direction  in  which  the  remaining  bounds  are  to  be 
laid  off  described  either  by  points  of  the  compass  or  by  natural  landmarks.  (/') 
The  asterisk  set  at  the  words  "St.  Croix"  refers  to  a  memorandum  which 
I'ike  causes  to  appear  as  a  clause  of  the  treaty  itself,  interpolated  of  his  own 
motion,  without  the  knowledge  or  consent  of  the  other  party  to  the  transaction  ; 
it  is  also  unintelligible  on  its  face.  "My  demand  wa«  one  league  below."  Helow 
what  ?  Below  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix  ?  That  would  be  the  obvious  infer- 
ence ;  but  it  would  be  erroneous  to  so  infer.  "  Their  reply  wat  '  from  below.' " 
This  is  absolutely  unintelligible  as  it  stands  ;  it  has  no  meaning  whatever.  "  I 
imagine  (without  iniquity)  they  may  be  made  to  agree."  Is  it  Tike's  imagina- 
tion that  is  without  iniquity?  Or  is  it  some  agreement  that  may  be  brought 
ibout  without  iniquity  between  his  demands  and  the  terms  of  the  cession  ?  Or 
is  it  the  Indians  who  can  without  iniquity  be  made  to  agree  with  a  demand 
that  conflicts  with  the  terms  of  the  cession  as  understood  by  thoni  ?  In  point  of 
fact,  however,  this  interpolated  clause  of  the  treaty,  or  interpolated  memoran- 
dum relating  to  the  terms  of  the  cession,  has  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  the 
lands  at  or  near  the  St.  Croi.v  '■.,  because  the  asterisk  v  hich  points  out  the  place 
of  the  interpolation  is  misplaced  by  error  of  the  types.  The  words  which  stand 
"St.  Croix,*  also  from,"  etc.,  should  stand  "St.  Cr.  ix.  *Also  from,"  etc. 
The  printer  foiled  Pike's  intention  of  placing  the  asterisk  at  the  beginning  of 
the  clause  to  which  it  pertains,  by  setting  it  at  the  end  of  the  preceding  clause, 
to  which  it  does  not  pertain. 

3.  Now  making  the  actually  required  transference  of  the  asterisk  to  its  proper 
and  intended  position  (where  it  stands  correctly  on  a  manuscrijit  copy  of  the 
orii;.  doc.  now  before  me),  the  whole  difficulty  which  this  obnoxious  interpola- 
tion occasions  is  shifted  to  a  much  more  important  clause  of  the  treaty,  upon 
which  it  remains  in  full  force.  Accordingly  we  find  that  this  most  important 
clause  beginning  "*Also  from  below,"  etc..  includes  an  irreconcilable  discrej)- 
ancy  between  Pike's  demand  and  the  Indians'  concession.  lie  appears  to  have 
demanded  that  the  tract  of  land  ceded  should  begin  "  one  league"  below  the 
coniluence  of  St.  Peter's  with  the  Mississippi  r. ;  and  the  Indians  appear  to 
have  aL;reed,  not  to  this  demand,  but  to  a  cession  of  a  tract  of  land  which  shoulil 
begin  "  from  below"  the  said  confluence  ;  though  how  far  "  from  below"  is  not 
said,  and  there  is  nothing  to  show  whether  the  distance  should  be  more  or  less 
than  the  "one  league"  which  Pike  demanded  and  to  which  the  Indians  did  not 


I  If  % 


hi- 


234' 


THE    SIOUX   TREATY    NOTED. 


ways,  to  revenge  a  stroke  made  on  their  people,  the  very 
day  after  their  return  from  their  visit  to  the  Illinois;  ten 

agree.  Bui  it  is  impossible,  either  with  or  without  "iniquity,"  to  come  to 
any  incontestable  conclusion  concerning  a  boundary  so  unintelligibly  indicated. 
The  most  we  can  do  is  to  "  imagine,"  as  Pike  did,  that  what  the  Indians  were 
willing  to  cede  and  did  in  fact  cede  by  the  terms  of  the  treaty,  was  a  tract  which 
began  on  one  side  at  no  appreciable  or  no  considerable  distance  below  the  said 
confluenct,  i.  e.,  exactly  or  immediately  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  r.  This  is  a 
reasonable  and  natural,  if  not  the  only,  inference  to  be  drawn  from  the  obscure 
and  scarcely  intelligible  terms  of  the  article  in  question  ;  and  I  believe  that  such 
has  always  been  the  assumption  of  its  true  purport.  The  initial  point  assumed, 
then,  is  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  r. ;  but  the  article  does  not  show  in  what,  if 
any,  direction  a  line  is  to  be  drawn  through  this  point  for  the  purpose  of  estab- 
lishing a  practicable  boundary.  No  line  can  be  determined  by  fewer  than  two 
points  ;  yet  the  article  specifies  no  second  point  to  or  from  which  a  line  may  be 
drawn  from  or  to  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  r.  to  represent  one  side  of  tlie  tract 
supposed  to  have  been  ceded.  The  further  terms  of  the  article  throw  no  light 
on  the  case.  These  terms  are  only  "  to  include  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
extending  nine  miles  on  each  side  of  the  river."  This  clause  of  the  cession  does 
not  specify  which  one  of  the  two  said  rivers  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  extend 
nine  miles  on  each  side  of,  and  it  is  also  a  natural  impossibility  for  the  said  falls 
to  extend  any  miles  on  either  side  of  any  river.  Seeking  some  other  construc- 
tion to  be  put  upon  terms  which  are  obviously  absurd  if  taken  literally,  we  drag 
from  obscurity  a  semblance  of  meaning  they  may  be  assumed  to  have.  Tliis 
meaning  is,  that  the  tract  of  land  ceded  does  to  all  intent  and  purpose  extend 
from  a  point  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  r.  to  some  point  in  or  on  the  Missis- 
sippi r.,  at  or  beyond  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  ;  but  to  what  point  is  not  speci- 
fied. However,  we  may  assume  that  the  phrase  "to  include  the  falls  of  St. 
Anthony  "  is  to  be  construed  to  include  no  more  than  these  falls.  This  assump- 
tion gives  us  a  second  datum-point  of  the  required  boundary,  but  does  not  in 
any  way  assist  us  to  an  intelligible  connection  between  the  first  point  and  the 
second  one,  along  which  any  line  can  be  drawn  as  a  boundary.  This  deficiency 
of  any  line  whatever  may  be  assumed  to  be  supplied  by  the  only  remaining 
clause  of  the  article,  namely,  "  extending  nine  miles  on  each  side  of  the  river." 
But  in  what  direction  are  nine  miles  on  each  side  of  the  river  to  be  taken  ?  For 
anything  that  appears  to  the  contrary,  t!ie  distance  between  the  mouth  of  St. 
Peter's  r.  and  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  may  be  nine  miles,  and  there  is  nothing 
in  the  terms  of  the  article  which  forbids  the  measurement  of  nine  miles  to  be 
made  up  each  side  of  the  Mississippi  from  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  r.  to  tlie 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  as  much  further  as  nine  miles  may  be  found  to  reacli. 
On  such  assumption,  the  cession  included  only  a  section  of  the  Mississippi  r., 
and  not  any  Land  on  either  side  of  this  river  beyond  its  immediate  banks  ;  all 
that  was  ceded  by  the  Sioux  being  in  such  event  a  waterway  and  a  waterjKiwer. 
To  claim  as  ours  by  the  terms  of  the  treaty  any  hi'id  on  "ither  side  of  the  river, 
we  have  to  proceed  upon  yet  .mother  assumption,  namely,  tliat  the  nine  miles  in 


THE   SIOUX   TREATY   NOTED. 


535 


the  very 
nois;  ten 

to  come  to 
ly  indicated, 
[ndians  were 
I  tract  wliich 
low  tlie  said 
r.     This  is  a 
1  the  obscure 
;ve  that  such 
lint  assumed, 
V  in  what,  if 
jose  of  estab- 
iver  than  two 
a  line  may  be 
;  of  the  tract 
hrow  no  light 
St.  Anthony, 
le  cession  does 
nthony  extend 
r  the  said  falls 
)ther  construc- 
:rally,  we  drag 
have.    This 
urpose  extend 
)n  the  Missis- 
is  not  speci- 
le  falls  of  St. 
This  assump- 
it  does  not  in 
point  and  the 
'his  deficiency 
ily  remaining 
of  the  river." 
le  taken?    For 
mouth  of  St. 
.ere  is  nothing 
le  miles  to  be 
iter's  r.  to  llie 
lUnd  to  reach, 
ilississippi  r., 
,te  banks  ;  all 
la  waterpower. 
le  of  the  river, 
nine  miles  in 


persons  were  then  killed  on  this  ground.     I  yesterday  saw 
the  mausoleum  in  which  all  their  bodies  are  deposited,  and 

question  were  to  be  measursd  in  2.  direction  away  from  the  river  "  on  each  side." 
Hut  even  assuming  such  to  have  been  the  intent  and  purport  of  the  article,  sev- 
eral further  questions  arise.     The  first  of  these  concerns  the  meaning  of  the  word 
"  each"  in  its  present  connection.     This  word  means  either  one  of  two  or  more 
things  in  their  reciprocal  relation,  and  thus  implies  both  ;  in  the  present  instance, 
as  a  river  has  only  two  sides,  "  each  side  "  means  both  sides.     It  is  clear  that  a 
distance  of  nine  miles  is  to  be  measured  away  from  each  side  of  the  hver,  i.  e., 
is  to  include  some  distance  on  both  sides  of  the  river  ;  but  the  terms  of  the 
article  do  not  state  whether  the  whole  of  nme  miles'  distance  from  one  side  of 
tlie  river,  and  the  whole  of  nine  miles'  distance  from  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
was  ceded,  or  whether  a  part  of  these  nine  miles  on  one  side  and  the  rest  of 
these  nine  miles  on  the  other  was  ceded  ;  or,  in  the  latter  case,  what  part  of 
these  nine  miles  on  one  side  and  what  part  of  these  nine  miles  on  the  other  side 
were  ceded.     In  other  words,  is  the  tract  of  land  ceded  eighteen  miles  wide,  of 
only  nine  miles  wide  ?    In  the  former  case  it  would  of  course  lie  in  two  equal 
tracts,  one  on  each  side  of  the  river ;  in  the  latter  case,  its  location  would  be 
wholly  indeterminate  (within  certain  obvious  limitations);  for  it  might  be  four 
and  a  half  miles  on  each  side,  or  four  miles  on  one  side  and  five  on  the  other, 
and  so  on.     Even  were  all  the  foregoing  cjuestions  settled — arbitrarily,  con- 
ventionally, or  otherwise — yet   others  would   arise.     Among   these  would  be 
the  shape  of  the  two  lateral  boundaries  of  the  tract  of  land.     This  tract  is 
described  as  "extending  nine  miles  on  each  side  of  the  river."     That  is,  each 
boundary  furthest  from  the  river  is  to  be  at  the  same  distance  from  its  own  side 
of  the  river  at  every  point  of  its  own  extent.     This  requires  that  these  bounds 
should  be  parallel  with  each  other,  and  such  parallelism  involves  the  meandering 
of  two  lines  parallel  at  every  point  with  the  meanders  of  the  river.     Assuming 
that  this  were  satisfactorily  done,  it  would  still  be  impossible  to  determine  the 
connection  of  these  two  sides  of  a  theoretical  tract  of  land  with  the  otlicr  two  sides 
required  (or  actual  boundary.     For  there  is  nothing  in  the  article  to  show  the 
direction  in  which  either  the  line  which  crosses  the   mouth  of  St.  Peter's  r., 
or  tlie  line  which  crosses  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  is  to  be  extended  to  intersect 
any  lines,  however  the  latter  may  have  been  projected.     We  are  forced  to  yet 
further  assumptions,  for  which  the  terms  of  the  cession  give  no  warrant  what- 
ever.    No  determinable  shape  is  given  to  the  tract  of  land  by  the  terms  of  the 
cession.     If  we  assume  that  a  square  was  intended — is  was  exi,.essly  the  inten- 
tion in  the  case  of  the  land  about  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix — we  are  confronted 
with  some  terms  of  the  article  which  put  a  stjuare  out  of  the  question.     By  these 
terms  the  land  can  only  be  a  square  in  case  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter's  r.  be 
nine  miles  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  in  the  further  case  that  we 
niL-asure  four  and  a  half  miles  from  one  and  four  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
other  side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  make  all  connections  at  right  angles  by  means 
oi  right  lines.     It  is  needless  to  push  the  difficulty  further.     Nothing  of  this  sort, 
we  may  be  sure,  was  in  the  minds  of  the  Sioux  at  the  time,  and  it  may  be 


236 


THE    SIOUX    TREATY   NOTED. 


which  is  yet  daily  marked  with  the  blood  of  those  who 
swear  to  revenge  them.     But  a  runner  headed  them,  and 

doubted  that  anything  of  the  sort  occurred  to  Pike.  The  patent  fact  rerciiis 
that  even  if  both  parties  to  the  transaction  were  competent  to  execute  the  insftu- 
ment  by  which  certain  lands  were  ceded,  neither  the  situation,  nor  Vhe  shnpi.-, 
nor  the  size  of  the  tract  ceded  ran  be  determined  from  the  article  of  the  treaty 
relating  thereto.  How  the  cession  thus  left  in  the  air  maj  have  been  subse- 
quently determined,  it  is  not  to  my  present  purpose  to  inquire.  My  conteutiun 
is  simply  that  we  acquired  by  Article  I  of  this  famous  treaty  no  tract  or  tracts  if 
land  which  can  be  located  according  to  the  terms  of  the  article  ;  and  that  if 
there  be  not  a  cloud  upon  the  title  to  every  foot  of  land  between  and  inchnliiig 
Fort  Snelling  and  Minneapolis,  and  for  some  distance  on  each  side  of  those 
places,  then  such  cloud  has  been  removed  by  legislative  or  other  action  subse- 
quent to  the  supposed  cession.  It  will  also  be  remembered  by  those  interested 
in  such  things  that  the  question  has  been  raised  whether  the  Sioux  who  seem  to 
have  ceded  this  land  to  us  had  at  the  time  a  clear  title  to  it ;  for  Carver  claimeil, 
and  some  of  his  heirs  have  since  sought  to  establish  his  claim,  that  the  Sioux 
h.id  at  one  time  made  over  to  him,  for  a  valuable  consideration,  certain  lands 
supposed  to  be  the  same,  wholly  or  in  part,  as  those  which  they  made  ovcf  tc 
Pike.  This  ca--e  I  understand  was  tried,  and  decided  adversely  in  law  ;  whetliet 
it  be  not  a  gooi,  case  in  equity  is  another  question. 

4.  With  the  competency  of  both  parties  to  the  transaction  brought  into  ques- 
tion, and  with  the  size,  shape,  and  situation  of  the  land-f{rant  shown  to  be  inde- 
terminable, we  have  next  to  consider  whether  Article  2  does  not  invalidate,  vitiate, 
or  voiil  the  whole  instrument.  In  the  version  which  P>t.-e's  printer  offers  us,  it 
reads  ;  "  Art.  2.  That  in  consideration  of  the  above  grants,  the  United  States 
shall  ]>ay  (filled  up  by  the  senate  with  2000  dollars)."  This  is  simply  ridiculous. 
By  the  terms  of  Article  2,  the  valuable  consideration  which  the  Sioux  received 
is  an  imaginary  nonentity  descriiied  as  "(filled  up  by  the  senate  with  20o<:) 
dollars)."  However,  this  absurdity  in  the  wording  of  an  international  docu- 
ment is  so  clearly  due  to  the  heedlessness  of  an  inexperienced  young  officer,  and 
what  Pike  meant  by  such  phraseology  is  so  obvious,  that  we  can  let  it  go  with 
only  the  further  remark  that  the  purport  of  Article  2,  as  it  stands  on  his  page, 
is  clearer  than  anything  in  Article  i.  For  it  is  an  obvious  editorial  interpola- 
tion of  his  own,  formiiij^  no  part  of  the  original  document,  but  simply  intended 
to  inform  the  reo  ' .  :Iiat  at  some  time  .suijsequent  to  the  execution  of  the  instru- 
ment by  the  contracting  parties,  the  Senate  of  the  United  States  voted  to  fill  up 
a  place  which  had  been  left  l-lank  in  the  original  document  with  a  clause  ^\liich 
provided  that  the  United  States  should  pay  $2,000  to  the  Indians  in  considera- 
tion of  the  grant  which  the  latter  had  made.  But  this  very  fact  goes  far  to 
show  that  the  instrument  was  in  the  first  place  fatally  defective,  no  valuable  or 
any  consideration  whatever  having  been  originally  expressed  or  implied  in  tlie 
terms  of  .Vrticle  2.  On  this  ])oint  I  iiave  carefully  examined  two  mrMuiscrii't 
copies  of  the  "  treaty,"  hotli  made  soon  after  the  transaction  in  (ue.stion,  am' 
both  now  on  file  in  tbe  War  1  department.     One  of  vhr  manuscripts   reads 


THE   SIOUX    TREATY    NOTED. 


237 


yesterday  they  all  arrived — about  250  persons,  in  company 
with  those  who  were  in  the  ponds  gathering  rice.     Amidst 

"  Article  2"''. — That  in  consideration  of  the  aljove  Grants,  the  United  States" 
The  other  manuscript  reads  ;  "  Art.  a**  That  in  consideration  of  the  above 
grants  the  U.  S."  A  third  version  of  Article  2,  in  an  ofticial  imprint  of  the 
treaty,  published  by  the  Indian  Bureau,  is  :  "  Article  2.  That  in  consideration 
of  the  above  grants  the  United  Stateu  **»*«*"  Whence  it 
appears  that  the  words  "shall  pay,"  which  occur  in  the  version  our  young 
friend  offers  in  his  book,  were  also  an  editorial  invention  of  his  own  ;  there  is 
no  hint  in  the  orij^inal  instrument  that  tlie  United  States  was  to  pay  anything. 
I'or  anything  that  appears  to  the  contrary,  the  United  States  might  have 
declared  war  with  England,  or  amended  the  Constitution,  or  done  nothing,  in 
consideration  of  the  above  grant.  Pike  could  give  the  Indians  no  assurance 
that  the  United  States  would  do  anything  whatever — that  they  would  even 
accept  the  lands  as  a  gift,  because  he  had  no  knowledge  of  future  Acts  of 
Congress,  and  no  authority  to  make  any  stipulations  which  should  be  binding 
ou  the  government.  What  is  perhaps  the  most  extraordinary  thing  about  this 
extraordinary  transaction  is  that  Pike  informs  Wilkinson  by  letter  of  equal  date 
that  lands  to  the  extent  of  about  100,000  acres  had  been  obtained  "for  a 
song"  ;  calls  the  general's  attention  pointedly  to  the  fact  "  that  the  2d  artic'e, 
relative  to  consideration,  is  blank  ;"  that  the  "song"  in  mention  was  worth 
alM)utS250.  being  the  value  of  certain  presents  with  which  he  had  ]  crsonally 
and  privately  feed  the  two  chiefs  who  signed  the  treaty,  these  presents  being 
partly  from  articles  of  his  personal  ]iroperty  ;  and  suggests  to  the  general 
"  to  insert  the  amount  of  those  articles  as  the  considerations  to  be 
specified  in  article  2d."  General  Wilkinson  expresses  unfeigned  surprise  at 
this,  in  a  letter  before  me  addressed  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  dated  St.  Louis, 
Nov.  26th,  1805,  in  which  he  says  :  "  You  have  a  copy  of  the  agreement  under 
cover,  in  which,  for  what  reason  I  cannot  divine,  he  [Pike]  omits  the  stipula- 
tion on  the  part  of  the  United  States  ;"  and  again,  after  quoting  some  clauses 
of  Pike's  letter  to  himself,  he  remarks  :  "  I  do  not  fairly  comprehend  this 
reasoning,  but  I  dare  say  Mr.  Pike  will  be  able  to  explain  it  satisfactorily,  the' 
it  is  unquestionable  he  is  a  much  alder  soldier  than  negotiator."  We  need 
not  take  the  view  that  this  was  a  shady  transaction  ;  yet  if  Wi'kinson  had 
inserted  S250  as  the  consideration  to  be  paid  for  the  land,  no  more  than,  this 
C'lil  1  have  been  claimed  by  the  Sioux,  and  as  this  was  in  part  Pike's  personal 
pripertv,  some  land  would  have  been  his  own  unless  he  had  chosen  to  make  it 
over  to  the  United  States  on  being  reimbursed  in  a  like  amount — that  is,  if 
such  a  treaty  was  worth  any  more  than  the  paper  on  which  it  was  written. 
Tlic  facts  appear  to  be  that  Pike  hobnobbed  with  two  chiefs  till  he  got  them  t-^ 
ina>  him  a  present  of  the  land  he  wanted,  in  consideration  of  some  presents 
wIikIi  he  had  already  made  to  these  two  Indians  privately. 

5.  The  third  article  of  the  treaty  is  intelligible,  though  it  is  not  clear  what 
"  c\ccM>tions "  were  "specified"  in  Article  i,  as  recited  in  .Vrticle  3.  The 
purport  seems  to  be  that  the  Sioux  should  retain  right  of  way  in  the  land,  and 


iiiv 


238 


THE   SIOUX   TREATY   NOTED. 


My.  ;y 


m. 


■^..-i 


the  yelling  of  the  mourners  and  the  salutes  of  the  warriors 
there  was  a  scene  worthy  the  pen  of  a  Robertson  fqu.  Rev. 
Wm.  Robertson,  the  Scottish  historian,  b.  1721,  d.  1/93?] 

such  other  use  of  it  as  should  not  be  abridged  or  nullified  by  our  occupation. 
At  the  same  time  it  is  not  clear  that,  since  the  United  States  were  to  have  "  full 
sovereignty  and  power,"  by  the  terms  of  Article  I,  they  were  not  authorized  to 
withdraw  all  the  privileges  of  Article  3  if  they  saw  fit  to  do  so. 

6.  The  question  of  the  validity  of  many  legal  documents  is  affected  by  tlic 
presence  or  absence  of  witnesses  to  the  same.  In  the  present  case  no  signatures 
of  witnesses  appear  on  the  face  of  the  instrument,  and  there  is  nothing  whatever 
to  show  that  it  is  anything  more  than  a  part  of  a  speech  which  Pike  made  to  cer- 
tain Indians,  and  which  two  of  them  subscribed  besides  himself.  None  of  the 
published  versions  of  the  "  treaty  "  which  I  have  seen  includes  this  important 
feature.  But  one  of  the  manuscript  copies  before  me  has  the  names  of  four 
persons  as  witnesses,  all  whites.  Reference  to  the  second  paragraph  of  Tike's 
speech  will  show  him  to  have  spoken  of  "  a  form  of  agreement  which  we  will 
both  sign  in  the  presence  of  the  traders  now  present."  Four  names  which  appear 
on  the  face  of  the  manuscript  copy  just  mentioned,  in  the  usual  place  of 
witnesses'  signatures,  and  under  a  word  which  I  make  out  to  be  "  Tests,"  (/,  (., 
teste  or  testibtts,  in  the  ablative  sing,  or  pi.)  are  :  Wm.  Meyer,  M[iir(l()ili] 
Cameron,  James  Frazer,  Duncan  Graham.  It  is  remarkable  that,  if  these  names 
appear  on  the  original  document,  they  were  not  transcribed  on  all  the  copies,  and 
also  printed  with  the  published  versions,  as  an. integral  part  of  the  same. 

7.  The  names  of  the  two  chiefs  who  are  supposed  to  have  "  touched  the 
quill"  to  this  transaction,  i.  (.,  signed  with  their  respective  marks,  occur  in 
variant  forms  in  the  several  copies  ;  but  this  is  the  rule  in  such  cases,  and  lias 
no  significance  except  of  clerical  incompetency.  In  the  officially  published 
version  above  mentioned  the  two  names  stand  "  Le  Petit  Carbeau  "  and  "  W'.iy 
Aga  Enagee,"  each  of  which  only  differs  by  one  letter  from  the  correct  form 
(in  the  case  of  the  French)  or  from  a  usual  form  (in  the  case  of  the  Sioux). 
Each  of  tliese  chiefs  has  been  already  identified  :  see  note  ',  p.  85  and  p.  86. 

The  subsequent  history  of  this  mock  instrument  or  valid  document  is  not 
less  singular  than  the  conditions  and  circumstances  under  which  it  originated. 
Diligent  search  for  it  among  the  treaties  duly  published  in  the  U.  S.  Statutes 
at  Large  fails  to  show  that  it  was  ever  included  in  that  collection  of  official 
papers.  But  certain  facts  were  furnished,  with  the  text  of  the  treaty  itself, 
to  the  Indian  Bureau  by  Mr.  C.  C.  Royce  of  the  Bureau  of  Ethnology 
at  Washington,  and  printed  by  the  former  Bureau  in  an  editorial  note 
explanatdry  of  that  text,  on  p.  316  of  its  official  publication  entitled  "  Laws 
of  the  United  States  relating  to  Indian  Affairs,"  etc.,  Washington,  Govern- 
ment Printing  Office,  1884.  It  appears  in  this  place  that  the  treaty  (in 
some  form)  was  submitted  by  the  President  to  the  Senate,  March  29th, 
1808,  thus  more  than  two  years  after  the  execution  of  the  instrument  in  writ- 
ing ;  that  the  Senaie  reported  favorably  upon  it  April  13th,  1808,  with  the 
following  amendment  to  fill  the  blank  in  Article  2  :  "  After  the  word  '  States' 


LETTER,    PIKE    TO   WILKINSON. 


239 


To-day  I  held  a  council  on  the  beach,  and  made  them  a 
speech,  in  which  I  touched  on  a  variety  of  subjects  ;  but  the 
principal  points  were,  obtaining  the  lands  as  specified  in  the 
within  articles,'   making   peace  with   the  Chipeways,   and 


in  the  second  article  insert  the  following  words  :  '  shall,  prior  to  taking  posses- 
sion thereof,  pay  to  the  Sioux  two  thousand  dollars,  or  deliver  the  value  thereof 
in  such  goods  and  merchandise  as  they  shall  choose.'  "  With  this  amendment 
the  Senate  unanimously  advised  and  consented  to  its  ratification,  April  i6th, 
1808.  Examination  of  the  records  of  the  State  Department  fails  to  disclose  that 
any  subsequent  action  was  taken  by  the  President  ;  and  the  ratification  of  the 
Teaty  does  not  appear  to  have  ever  been  proclaimed.  This  is  a  very  unusual 
I  ircumstance  ;  for  such  treaties  ordinarily  have  three  official  dates  of  as  many 
stages  in  their  progress  from  inception  to  full  effect,  viz.:  date  of  agreement 
between  the  contracting  parties  ;  date  of  ratification  by  the  proper  authority  ; 
and  date  of  proclamation  by  the  President.  In  the  present  case  the  principal 
evidence  that  the  alleged  cession  of  lands  was  ever  a  legally  accomplished  fact 
is  said  by  Mr.  Royce  to  consist  in  certain  correspondence  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment more  than  twenty-five  years  after  the  date  of  ratification  of  the  amended 
treaty  by  the  Senate.  But  that  the  cession  was  effected,  legally  or  otherwise,  is 
certain.  In  1819  Major  Thomas  Forsyth,  Indian  Agent  at  St.  Louis,  had 
received  instructions  from  the  War  Department  to  deliver  "a  certain  quantity  of 
goods,  say  $2,000  worth,"  "  in  payment  of  lands  ceded  by  the  Sioux  Indians  to 
the  late  Gen.  Pike  for  the  United  States  "  :  see  Forsyth's  Narrative,  as  orig. 
pub.  in  Wis.  Hist.  Coll.,  1872,  with  notes  by  Lyman  C.  Draper,  and  repub.  in 
Minn.  Hist.  Coll.,  III.  1874,  pp.  139-67.  Yet  we  find  General  H.  H.  Sibley 
saying,  ibid.,  p.  174  :  "  In  the  year  1821,  Col.  Leavenworth  called  together  the 
chiefs  and  head  men  of  the  Sioux  bands,  and  procured  from  them  a  grant  of 
land  nine  miles  square  at  the  junction  of  the  Mississippi  and  Minnesota  rivers." 
What  can  one  make  of  such  conflicting  statements  ?  Here  it  is  said  that 
Colonel  Leavenworth  procured  in  1821  a  grant  of  land  which  Major  Forsyth  is 
said  to  have  paid  for  in  i8ig,  and  which  Pike  is  said  to  have  secured  in  1805. 
In  the  same  place  General  Sibley  says  that  there  was  an  article  in  the  Leaven- 
worth-Sioux treaty  of  1821  by  which  the  Indians  "donated"  Pike's  isl.  to  Mr. 
J.  B.  Faribault. 

'  "  The  within  articles"  are  those  of  the  Sioux  Treaty  of  same  date,  inclosed 
in  this  letter  to  General  Wilkinson,  which  reached  St.  Louis  on  or  about  Nov. 
26th,  1805,  and  was  hnmediately  communicated  in  full  to  the  Secretary  of  War. 
\  manuscript  copy  of  the  original  is  on  file  in  the  Record  Division  of  the  War 
Department,  together  with  two  copies  of  General  Wilkinson's  own  letter  to 
General  Dearborn  on  the  same  subject  and  other  topics.  I  might  reproduce  the 
mcinuscript  of  Pike's  letter  textually,  but  as  the  copy  before  me  is  in  a  clerk's 
liand,  its  peculiarities  being  thus  not  Pike's  own,  it  is  not  worth  while  to  replace 
the  above  fair  imprint  of  the  original  with  another  version  which  would  show  no 
difference  except  in  its  clerical  errors.     See  preceding  article  for  a  criticism  of 


f-   !  r 


240 


LETTER,  riKE  TO  WILKINSON. 


".?'<*:■'■ 


granting  such  [Chipcway]  chiefs  as  might  accompany  nic 
down  to  visit  you  a  safe  conduct  through  their  [Sioux] 
country.  These  ends  were  accomplished.  You  will  per- 
ceive that  we  have  obtained  about  100,000  acres  for  a  soiii,'. 
You  will  please  to  observe.  General,  that  the  2d  article,  rela- 
tive to  consideration,  is  blank.  The  reasons  for  it  were  as 
follows :  I  had  to  fee  privately  two  of  the  chiefs,  and  beside 
that  to  make  them  presents  at  the  council  of  articles  which 
would  in  this  country  be  valued  at  $200,  and  the  otliers 
about  $50;  part  of  these  things  were  private  property  pur- 
chased here,  such  as  a  few  scarlet  shrouds  [strouds],  etc. 
These  I  was  not  furnished  by  the  United  States ;  and  al- 
though the  chiefs  in  the  council  presented  me  with  the  land, 
yet  it  is  possible  your  Excellency  may  think  proper  to  insert 
the  amount  of  those  articles  as  the  considerations  to  be 
specified  in  Article  2d.  They  have  bound  me  up  to  many 
assurances  that  the  posts  shall  be  established  ;  also,  tliat 
if  the  Chipeways  are  obstinate,  and  continue  to  kill  tlic 
Indians  who  bear  our  flags  (the  Chipeways  on  the  Upper 
Mississippi  bearing  the  English  flag)  and  our  traders,  wc  will 
take  them  in  hand  and  teach  them  to  lay  down  the  hatchet, 
as  we  have  once  already  done.  This  I  was  the  rather  in- 
duced to  say,  as  there  were  some  persons  present  wlio, 
although  trading  under  your  licenses,  I  know  to  be  British 
subjects.  A  chief  by  the  name  of  Elan  Levie  [Elan  Leve'], 
then  told  me  to  look  round  on  those  young  warriors  on  the 

the  treaty  itself  which  formed  the  inclosure  of  the  present  letter.  One  passage 
from  General  Wilkinson's  unpublished  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  War  mny  be 
here  cited  :  "  He  [Pike]  tells  me  he  has  no  doubt  of  being  able  to  make  l.nke 
Sable  in  pretty  good  Season,  but  observes  that  the  source  of  the  River  is  in 
'  Lake  Sang  Sue,'  about  sixty  Leagues  further  Nortli  &  that  He  must  'see  that 
also ' — in  which  case  he  will  have  stretched  his  orders  &  we  shall  not  hear  of 
Him  before  the  Spring — He  reports  that  our  flag  is  every  where  received  with 
pleasure,  &  that  he  had  patched  up  a  Peace  betv/een  the  Scioux  &  Clicpaways, 

who  are  generally  at  War " 

'This  is  the  "Original  Leve"  of  p.  85 — the  chief  whose  name  would  1"-'  in 
English  Standing  Elk  or  Standing  Moose  :  see  note  ',  p.  87.  Elan  is  French 
for  such  an  animal ;  it  is  the  same  word  as  tlie  Dutch  eland,  which  we  have  bur- 
rowed for  a  South  African  species. 


jlulilt 


LETTER,   PIKE   TO  WILKINSON. 


341 


beach  ;  that  not  only  they,  but  those  of  six  villages  more, 
were  at  our  command.  If  possible,  I  will  endeavor  to  note 
down  their  several  speeches,  and  show  them  you  on  my 
return. 

I  have  not  a  doubt  of  making  Lake  Sable  [Sandy  lake]  in 
pretty  good  season ;  but  they  inform  me  the  source  of  the 
river  is  in  Lake  La  Sang  Sue  [Leech  lake],  about  60  leagues 
further.  This  I  must  also  see,  ?.nd  hope  the  General  ap- 
proves of  my  determination.  At  those  two  lakes  there  rre 
establishments  of  the  N.  W.  Company.  These  are  both  in 
our  country,  and  time  and  circumstances  only  can  determine 
in  what  manner  I  shall  conduct  myself  toward  them.  '^^  Mr. 
[Hugh]  M'Gillis,  whose  father  was  a  refugee  and  had  his 
estate  confiscated  by  the  Americans,  has  charge  of  those 
factories.  He,  they  say,  is  a  sworn  enemy  of  the  United 
States.  This  was  told  me  by  a  man  who  I  expect  was  a 
friend  of  the  N.  W.  Company  ;  but  it  had  quite  a  contrary 
effect  to  what  he  intended  it  to  have,  as  I  am  determined, 
should  he  attempt  anything  malicious  toward  me — open 
force  he  dare  not — to  spare  no  pains  to  punish  him.  In 
fact,  the  dignity  and  honor  of  our  government  requires  that 
they  should  be  taught  to  gather  their  skins  in  quiet,  but 
even  then  not  in  a  clandestine  manner.  Added  to  this,  they 
are  the  very  instigators  of  the  war  between  the  Chipeways 
and  Sioux,  in  order  that  they  may  monopolize  the  trade  of 
the  Upper  Mississippi. 

The  chiefs  who  were  at  Saint  Louis  this  spring  gave  up 
their  English  medals  to  Mr.  Chouteau.  He  promised  them 
to  obtain  American  medals  in  return,  and  send  them  up  by 
some  officer.  They  applied  to  me  for  them,  and  said  they 
were  their  commissions — their  only  distinguishing  mark 
from  the  other  warriors.  I  promised  them  that  I  would 
write  you  on  the  occasion,  and  that  you  would  remedy  the 
evil.  The  chiefs  were  very  loath  to  sign  the  articles  relative 
to  the  land,  asserting  that  their  word  of  honor  for  the  gift 

*  Incorrect — he  being  a  Scotchman,  a  gentleman,  and  a  man  of  honor  ;  but 
this  was  the  information  I  received  at  the  St.  Peters.     [Orig.  Note.] 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


/. 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


2  ^  IS 

S  Itt    110 


1.4 


V] 


>Q 


/ 


'/ 


/^ 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  873-4503 


M/. 


r 


242 


LETTER,   PIKE  TO  WILKINSON. 


p1 


( I 


was  sufficient,  that  it  was  an  impeachment  of  their  probity 
to  require  them  to  bind  themselves  further,  etc.  This  is  a 
small  sample  of  their  way  of  thinking. 

I  must  mention  something  to  your  Excellency  relative  to 
the  man  recommended  to  me  by  Mr.  Chouteau  as  inter- 
preter. At  the  time  he  solicited  this  employ  he  was  engaged 
to  Mr.  [Robert]  Dickson,  and  on  my  arrival  at  the  Prairie 
[du  Chien]  was  gone  up  the  St.  Peters.  I  understand  he  is 
to  be  recommended  for  the  appointment  of  interpreter  to 
the  United  States  in  this  quarter.  On  the  contrary,  I  beg 
leave  to  recommend  for  that  appointment  Mr.  Joseph  Rein- 
ville,  who  served  as  interpreter  for  the  Sioux  last  spring  at 
the  Illinois,  and  who  has  gratuitously  and  willingly,  by  per- 
mission of  Mr.  [James]  Frazer,  to  whom  he  is  engaged, 
served  as  my  interpreter  in  all  my  conferences  with  the 
Sioux.  He  is  a  man  respected  by  the  Indians,  and  I  believe 
an  honest  one.  I  likewise  beg  leave  to  recommend  to  your 
attention  Mr.  Frazer,  one  of  the  iwo  gentlemen  who  dined 
with  you,  and  was  destined  for  the  Upper  Mississippi.  He 
waited  eight  or  ten  days  at  Prairie  [du  Chien]  for  me, 
detained  his  interpreter,  and  thenceforward  has  continued 
to  evince  a  zeal  to  promote  the  success  of  my  expedition  by 
every  means  in  his  power.  He  is  a  Vermonter  born,  and, 
although  not  possessing  the  advantages  of  a  polished  educa- 
tion, inherits  that  without  which  an  education  serves  but  to 
add  to  frivolity  of  character — candor,  bravery,  and  that  (V/ior 
patria  which  distinguishes  the  good  of  every  nation,  from 
Nova  Zembla  to  the  [Equatorial]  line. 

Finding  that  the  traders  were  playing  the  devil  with  their 
rum,  I  yesterday  in  council  informed  the  Indians  that  their 
father  had  prohibited  the  selling  of  liquor  to  them,  and  that 
they  would  oblige  him  and  serve  themselves  if  they  would 
prevent  their  young  men  from  paying  the  credits  of  any 
trader  who  sold  rum  to  them,  at  the  same  time  charging  the 
chiefs  to  treat  them  well ;  as  their  father,  although  good, 
would  not  again  forgive  them,  but  punish  with  severity  any 
injuries  committed  on  their  traders.     This,  I  presume,  Gen- 


LETTER,   PIKE  TO   WILKINSON. 


243 


cral,  is  agreeable  to  the  spirit  of  the  laws.  Mr.  Frazer  imme- 
diately set  the  example,  by  separating  his  spirits  from  the 
merchandise  in  his  boats,  and  returning  it  to  the  Prairie, 
although  it  would  materially  injure  him  if  the  other  traders 
retained  and  sold  theirs.  In  fact,  unless  there  are  some 
persons  at  our  posts  here,  when  established,  who  have 
authority  effectually  to  stop  the  evil  by  confiscating  the 
liquors,  etc.,  it  will  still  be  continued  by  the  weak  and 
malevolent. 

I  shall  forbear  giving  you  a  description  of  this  place  until 
my  return,  except  only  to  observe  that  the  position  for  this 
post  is  on  the  point  [where  Fort  Snelling  now  stands], 
between  the  two  rivers,  which  equally  commands  both  ;  and 
for  that  at  the  St.  Croix,  on  the  hill  on  the  lower  side  of  the 
entrance,  0.1  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi  [now  Prescott, 
Pierce  Co.,  Wis.].  Owing  to  cloudy  weather,  etc.,  I  have 
taken  no  observation  here ;  but  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin  is 
in  44"  58'  8"  N.,  and  we  have  made  very  little  northing 
since.  The  Mississippi  is  130  yards  wide,  and  the  St.  Peters 
80  yards  at  their  confluence. 

Sept.  2^th.  This  morning  Little  Corbeau  came  to  see  me 
from  the  village,  he  having  recovered  an  article  which  I  sus- 
pected had  been  taken  by  the  Indians.  He  told  me  many 
things  which  the  ceremony  of  the  council  would  not  permit 
his  delivering  there;  and  added,  he  must  tell  me  that  Mr. 
Roche,  who  went  up  the  river  St.  Peters,  had  in  his  presence 
given  two  kegs  of  rum  to  the  Indians.  The  chief  asked  him 
why  he  did  so,  as  he  knew  it  was  contrary  to  the  orders  of 
his  father,  adding  that  Messrs.  Mareir  and  Tremer'  had  left 
their  rum  behind  them,  but  that  he  alone  had  rum,  contrary 
to  orders.  Roche  tiien  gave  the  chief  15  bottles  of  rum, 
as  I  suppose  to  bribe  him  to  silence.  I  presume  he  should 
be  taught  the  impropriety  of  his  conduct  when  he  applies 
for  his  license  next  year. 

'  "  Mareir"  and  "  Tremer  "  are  both  wrong,  no  doubt,  but  I  do  not  know  what 
the  right  names  are.  A  clerk's  copy  of  the  original  letter  before  me  has  "  Mercier" 
and  "  Fener" — latter  perhaps  Fran9ois  Fennai  :  cf.  W.  H.  S.  C,  XII.  p.  160. 


ill. 


\i 


M:^-'i^ 


244 


LETTER,  PIKE  TO    WILKINSON. 


Above  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  Sept.  26th. 

The  cloudy  weather  still  continues,  and  I  have  not  been 
able  to  take  the  latitude.  Mr.  Frazer  has  been  kind  enough 
to  send  two  of  his  people  across  from  the  Sioux  town  on  the 
St.  Peters  for  my  dispatches,  and  the  place  being  dangerous 
for  them,  I  must  haste  to  dispatch  them.  Of  course,  Gen- 
eral, the  following  short  sketch  of  the  falls  will  merely  be 
from  /e  coup  d'ceuil.  The  place  where  the  river  falls  over  the 
rocks  appears  to  be  about  1 5  feet  perpendicular,  the  sheet 
being  broken  by  one  large  island  on  the  E.  and  a  small  one 
on  the  W.,  the  former  commencing  below  the  shoot  and 
extending  500  yards  above  ;  the  river  then  falls  through  a 
continued  bed  of  rocks,  with  a  descent  of  at  least  50  feet 
perpendicular  in  the  course  of  half  a  mile.  Thence  to  the 
St.  Peters,  a  distance  of  1 1  miles  by  water,  there  is  almost 
one  continued  rapid,  aggravated  by  the  interruption  of  12 
small  islands.  The  carrying-place  has  two  hills,  one  of  25 
feet,  the  other  of  12,  with  an  elevation  of  45°,  and  is  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  length.  Above  the  shoot,  the 
river  is  of  considerable  width  ;  but  below,  at  this  time,  I 
can  easily  cast  a  stone  over  it.  The  rapid  or  suck  con- 
tinues about  half  a  mile  above  the  shoot,  when  the  water 
becomes  calm  and  deep.  My  barges  are  not  yet  over,  but 
my  trucks  are  preparing,  and  I  have  not  the  least  doubt 
of  succeeding. 

The  general,  I  hope,  will  pardon  the  tautologies  and 
egotisms  of  my  communications,  as  he  well  knows  Indian 
affairs  are  productive  of  such  errors,  and  that  in  a  wilder- 
ness, detached  from  the  civilized  world,  everything,  even  if 
of  little  import,  becomes  magnified  in  the  eyes  of  the 
beholder.  When  I  add  that  my  hands  are  blistered  in 
vvorking  over  the  rapids,  I  presume  it  will  apologize  for  the 
manner  and  style  of  my  communications, 

I  flatter  myself  with  hearing  from  you  at  the  Prairie,  on 
my  way  down.  I  am,  General, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

General  Wilkinson,  [Signed]    Z.  M.  PiKE,  Lt. 


•■'11'  I    M 


INSTRUCTIONS,    PIKE    TO    KENNERMAN. 


245 


ept.  a  6th. 
;  not  been 
ind  enough 
;own  on  the 
;  dangerous 
ourse,  Gen- 

merely  be 
ills  over  the 
r,  the  sheet 
a  small  one 
;  shoot  and 
s  through  a 
east  50  feet 
ence  to  the 
re  is  almost 
iption  of  \2 
s,  one  of  25 
and  is  about 
:   shoot,  the 
[this  time,  I 
>r  suck  con- 
;n  the  water 
^et  over,  but 

least  doubt 


Le  Prairie,  on 


h. 


Art.  7."    Instructions,  Pike  to  Sergeant  Henry  Kennerman. 
{Orig.  No.  16,  pp.  J  J,  J4.) 

Pine  Creek  Rapids,  Oct.  ist,  1805. 

You  are  to  remain  here  with  the  party  under  your  com- 
mand, subject  to  the  following  instructions :  Your  guards 
to  consist  of  one  non-commissioned  officer  and  three  pri- 
vates, yourself  mounting  in  regular  rotation,  making  one 
sentinel  by  day  and  by  night ;  until  your  position  is  inclosed 
by  pickets,  every  man  is  to  be  employed  on  that  object ; 
after  which  Sparks  is  to  be  employed  in  hunting ;  but  this 
will  by  no  means  excuse  him  from  his  tour  of  guard  at  night 
when  in  the  stockade,  but  he  must  be  relieved  during  the 
day  by  another  man. 

Should  any  Indians  visit  you  previous  to  having  your 
works  complete,  divide  your  men  between  the  tv/o  block- 
houses, and  on  no  conditions  suffer  a  savage  to  enter  the 
one  where  the  stores  are,  and  not  more  than  one  or  two  into 
the  other ;  but  should  you  be  so  fortunate  as  not  to  be  dis- 
covered until  your  works  are  completed,  you  may  admit 
three,  without  arms,  and  no  more,  to  enter  at  once,  at  the 
same  time  always  treating  them  with  as  much  friendship  as 
is  consistent  with  your  own  safety. 

You  are  furnished  with  some  tobacco  to  present  them 
with,  but  on  no  condition  are  you  ever  to  give  them  one 
drop  of  liquor ;  inform  them  that  I  have  taken  it  all  with  me. 
From  the  arrangements  I  have  made  with  the  Sioux  it  is 
presumable  they  will  treat  you  with  friendship ;  but  the 
Chipeways  may  be  disposed  to  hostilities,  and,  should  you 
be  attacked,  calculate  on  surrendering  only  with  your  life. 
Instruct  your  men  not  to  fire  at  random,  nor  ever,  unless  the 
enemy  is  near  enough  to  make  him  a  point-blank  shot.   This 

'°  Article  7  was  misplaced  in  the  orig.  ed.  as  No.  16,  being  brought  in  at  the 
end  of  all  the  rest  of  the  correspondence.  I  transfer  it  to  its  present  proper 
place  in  chronological  sequence  of  these  documents.  It  requires  no  comment, 
being  simply  the  written  orders  which  the  commanding  officer  gave  his  sergeant 
for  the  guidance  of  the  latter  during  the  former's  absence,  and  which  Kenner- 
man proceeded  to  disobey  in  general  and  in  particular. 


;■&: 

.y 

'% 

'$:^ 

'% 

i'  ■ 

i, 

i 

1 

i 


L  fi 


n 


246 


INSTRUCTIONS,    PIKE    TO  KENNERMAN. 


you  must  particularly  attend  to,  and  punish  the  first  man 
found  acting  in  contradiction  thereto.  The  greatest  ecoii- 
omy  must  be  used  with  the  ammunition  and  provisions.  Of 
the  latter  I  shall  furnish  Sparks  his  proportion  ;  and  at  any 
time  should  a  man  accompany  him  for  a  day's  hunt,  furnish 
him  with  four  or  five  balls  and  extra  powder,  and  on  his 
return  take  what  is  left  away  from  him.  The  provisions 
must  be  issued  agreeably  to  the  following  proportion  :  For 
four  days  N.  80  lbs.  of  fresh  venison,  elk,  or  buffalo,  or  Co 
lbs.  fresh  bear  meat,  with  one  quart  of  salt  for  that  period. 
The  remainder  of  what  is  killed  keep  frozen  in  the  open  air 
as  long  as  possible,  or  salt  and  smoke  it,  so  as  to  lay  up  meat 
for  my  party  and  us  all  to  descend  the  river  with.  If  you 
are  obliged,  through  the  failure  of  your  hunter,  to  issue  out 
of  our  reserved  provisions,  you  will  deliver,  for  four  days,  18 
lbs.  of  pork  or  bacon,  and  18  lbs.  of  flour  only.  This  will  be 
sufficient,  and  must  in  no  instance  be  exceeded.  No  whisky 
will  be  issued  after  the  present  barrel  is  exhausted,  at  half  a 
gill  per  man  per  day. 

Our  boats  are  turned  up  near  your  gate.  You  will  make 
a  barrel  of  pitch,  and  give  them  a  complete  repairing  to  be 
ready  for  us  to  descend  in. 

I  have  delivered  to  you  my  journals  and  observations  to 
this  place,  with  a  letter  accompanying  them  to  his  Excel- 
lency, General  James  Wilkinson,  which,  should  I  not  return 
by  the  time  hereafter  specified,  you  will  convey  to  him  and 
deliver  personally,  requesting  his  permission  to  deliver  the 
others  committed  to  your  charge. 

You  will  ob.serve  the  strictest  discipline  and  justice  in  your 
command.  I  expect  the  men  will  conduct  themselves  in 
such  a  manner  that  there  will  be  no  complaints  made  on  my 
return,  and  that  they  will  be  ready  to  account  to  a  higher 
tribunal.  The  date  of  my  return  is  uncertain ;  but  let  no 
information  or  reports,  except  from  under  my  own  hand, 
induce  you  to  quit  this  place  until  one  month  after  the  ice 
has  broken  up  at  the  head  of  the  river ;  when,  if  I  am  not 
arrived,  it  will  be  reasonable  to  suppose  that  some  disastrous 


'<!:h>i[i£fe<£sKl£««ta>«u...^ ' 


LETTER,  PIKE  TO   M'GILLIS. 


24; 


events  detain  us,  and  you  may  repair  to  St.  Louts.  You  are 
taught  to  discriminate  between  my  baggage  and  United 
States'  property.  The  latter  deliver  to  the  assistant  mili- 
tary agent  at  St.  Louis,  taking  his  receipts  for  the  same ;  the 
former,  if  in  your  power,  to  Mrs.  Pike. 

Your  party  is  regularly  supplied  with  provisions,  to  include 
the  8th  of  December  only,  from  which  time  you  are  entitled 
to  draw  on  the  United  States. 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  PiKE,  Lt. 


An.  8.     Letter,  Pike  to  Hugh    M'Gillis.    {Orig.  No.  5, 

pp.  14-16.) 


Sir 


N.  W.  Establishment  on  Leech  Lake, 

Feb.  [6th],  1805. 


As  [you  are]  a  proprietor  of  the  N.  W.  Company  and 
director  of  the  Zond  [Fond]  du  Lac  department,  I  conceive 
it  my  duty  as  an  officer  of  the  United  States,  in  whose  terri- 
tory you  are,  to  address  you  solely  on  the  subject  of  the 
many  houses  under  your  instructions.  As  a  member  of  the 
greatest  commercial  nation  in  the  world,  and  of  a  company 
long  renowned  for  their  extent  of  connections  and  greatness 
of  views,  you  cannot  be  ignorant  of  the  rigor  of  the  laws  of 
the  duties  on  imports  of  a  foreign  power. 

Mr.  Jay's  treaty,  it  is  true,  gave  the  right  of  trade  with  the 
savages  to  British  subjects  in  the  United  States  territories, 
but  by  no  means  exempted  them  from  paying  the  duties, 
obtaining  licenses,  and  subscribing  unto  all  the  rules  and 
restrictions  of  our  laws.  I  find  your  establishments  at  every 
suitable  place  along  the  whole  extent  of  the  south  side  of 
Lake  Superior  to  its  head,  thence  to  the  source  of  the  Miss- 
issippi, and  down  Red  River,  and  even  extending  to  the 
center  of  our  newly  acquired  territory  of  Louisiana,  in  which 
it  will  probably  yet  become  a  question  between  the  two  gov- 
ernments, whether  our  treaties  will  authorize  British  sub- 
jects to  enter  into  the  Indian  trade  on  the  same  footing  as 


i 


Mi 


248 


LETTER,   PIKE  TO   M'GILLIS. 


in  the  other  parts  of  our  frontiers,  this  not  having  been  an 
integral  part  of  the  United  States  at  the  time  of  said  treaty. 
Our  traders  to  the  south,  on  the  Lower  Mississippi,  com- 
plain to  our  government,  with  justice,  that  the  members  of 
the  N.  W.  Company  encircle  them  on  the  frontiers  of  our 
N.  W.  territory,  and  trade  with  the  savages  upon  superior 
terms  to  what  they  can  afford,  who  pay  the  duties  on  their 
goods  imported  from  Europe,  and  subscribe  to  the  regula- 
tions prescribed  by  law. 

These  representations  have  at  length  attracted  the  atten- 
tion of  our  government  to  the  object  in  question,  and,  with 
an  intention  to  do  themselves  as  well  as  citizens  justice,  they 
last  year  took  some  steps  to  ascertain  the  facts  and  make 
provision  against  the  growing  evil.  With  this,  and  also  with 
some  geographical  and  local  objects  in  view,  was  I  dispatched 
with  discretionary  orders,  with  a  party  of  troops,  to  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi.  I  have  found,  Sir,  your  com- 
merce and  establishments  extending  beyond  our  most  exag- 
gera';ed  ideas;  and  in  addition  to  the  injury  done  our  reve- 
nue by  evasion  of  the  duties,  other  acts  done  which  are  more 
particularly  injurious  to  the  honor  and  dignity  of  our  govern- 
ment. The  transactions  alluded  to  are  the  presenting 
medals  of  his  Britannic  Majesty,  and  flags  of  the  said  gov- 
ernment, to  the  chiefs  and  warriors  resident  in  thv;  territory 
of  the  United  States.  As  political  subjects  are  strictly  pro- 
hibited to  our  traders,  what  would  be  the  ideas  of  the  execu- 
tive to  see  foreigners  making  chiefs,  and  distributing  flags, 
the  standard  of  an  European  power?  The  savages  being 
accustomed  to  look  on  that  standard,  which  was  the 
only  prevailing  one  for  years,  as  that  which  alone  has 
authority  in  the  country,  it  would  not  be  in  the  least  aston- 
ishing to  see  them  revolt  from  the  United  States'  limited 
subjection  which  is  claimed  over  them  by  the  American 
government,  and  thereby  be  the  cause  of  their  receiving  a 
chastisement  which,  although  necessary,  yet  would  be  unfor- 
tunate, as  they  would  have  been  led  astray  by  the  policy  of 
the  traders  of  your  country. 


LETTER,   PIKE  TO  M'GILLIS. 


249 


I  must  likewise  observe,  Sir,  that  your  establishments,  if 
properly  known,  would  be  looked  on  with  an  eye  of  dissatis- 
faction by  our  government,  for  another  reason,  viz.,  there 
being  so  many  furnished  posts,  in  case  of  a  rupture  between 
the  two  powers  the  English  government  would  not  fail  to 
make  use  of  those  as  places  of  deposit  of  arms,  ammunition, 
etc.,  to  be  distributed  to  the  savages  who  joined  their  arms, 
to  the  great  annoyance  of  our  territory,  and  the  loss  of  the 
lives  of  many  of  our  citizens.  Your  flags,  Sir,  when  hoisted 
in  inclosed  works,  are  in  direct  contradiction  of  the  law  of 
nations,  and  their  practice  in  like  cases,  which  only  admits 
of  foreign  flags  being  expanded  on  board  of  vessels,  and 
at  the  residences  of  ambassadors  or  consuls.  I  am  not 
ignorant  of  the  necessity  of  your  being  in  such  a  position 
as  to  protect  yourself  from  the  sallies  of  drunken  savages, 
or  the  more  deliberate  plans  of  intending  plunderers ; 
and  under  those  considerations  have  I  considered  your 
stockades. 

You,  and  the  company  of  which  you  are  a  member,  must 
be  conscious  from  the  foregoing  statement  that  strict  justice 
would  demand,  and  I  assure  you  that  the  law  directs,  under 
similar  circumstances,  a  total  confiscation  of  your  property, 
personal  imprisonment,  and  fines.  But  having  discretionary 
instructions  and  no  reason  to  think  the  above  conduct  to  be 
dictated  through  ill-will  or  disrespect  to  our  government, 
and  conceiving  it  in  some  degree  departing  from  the 
character  of  an  officer  to  embrace  the  first  opportunity  of 
executing  those  laws,  I  am  willing  to  sacrifice  my  prospect 
of  private  advantage,  conscious  that  the  government  looks 
not  to  its  interest,  but  to  its  dignity  in  the  transaction.  I 
have  therefore  to  request  of  you  assurances  on  the  follow- 
ing heads  which,  setting  aside  the  chicanery  of  law,  as  a 
gentleman  you  will  strictly  adhere  to : 

1st.  That  you  will  make  representations  to  your  agents, 
at  your  headquarters  on  Lake  Superior,  of  the  quantity  of 
goods  wanted  the  ensuing  spring  for  your  establishments  in 
the  territory  of  the  United  States,  in  time  sufficient  (or  as 


i'tifc 


250 


LETTER,  PIKE  TO  M'GILLIS. 


early  as  possible)  for  them  to  enter  them  at  the  C.  H.  of 
Michilimackinac,  and  obtain  a  clearance  and  license  to  trade- 
in  due  form. 

2d.  That  you  will  give  immediate  instructions  to  all  the 
posts  in  said  territory  under  your  direction,  at  no  lime  and 
under  no  pretense  whatever  to  hoist,  or  suffer  to  be  hoisted, 
the  English  flag.  If  you  conceive  a  flag  necessary,  you 
may  make  use  of  that  of  the  United  States,  which  is  the 
only  one  which  can  be  admitted. 

3d.  That  you  will  on  no  further  occasion  present  a  flag 
or  medal  to  an  Indian,  or  hold  councils  with  any  of  them 
on  political  subjects,  or  others  foreign  from  that  of  trade ; 
but  that,  on  being  applied  to  on  those  heads,  you  will  refer 
them  to  the  American  agents,  informing  them  that  these 
are  the  only  persons  authorized  to  hold  councils  of  a  politi- 
cal nature  with  them. 

There  are  many  other  subjects,  such  as  the  distribution 
of  liquor,  etc.,  which  would  be  too  lengthy  to  be  treated  of 
in  detail.  But  the  company  will  do  well  to  furnish  them- 
selves with  our  laws  regulating  commerce  with  the  savages, 
and  regulate  themselves  in  our  territories  accordingly. 

I  embrace  this  opportunity  to  acknowledge  myself  and 
command  under  singular  obligations  to  yourself  and  agents 
for  the  assistance  which  you  have  rendered  us,  and  the 
polite  treatment  with  which  we  have  been  honored.  With 
sentiments  of  high  respect  for  the  establishment  and 
yourself, 

I  am.  Sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

Z.  M.  Pike. 
Hugh  M'Gillis,  Esq., 
Proprietor  and  Agent  of  the  N.  W.  Company 
established  at  Zond  [Fond]  Du  Lac. 


''J 


LETTER,   M'GILLIS  TO   PIKE.  35I 

Art.  p.  Letter,  Hugh  M'Gillis  to  Pike.    {Orig.  No.  d, 

PP'  n-t9-) 

Leech  Lake,  Feb.  15th,  1806. 
Sir: 

I  Your  address  presented  on  the  6th  inst.  has  attracted  my 
most  serious  consideration  to  the  several  objects  of  duties 
on  importations  ;  of  presents  made  to,  and  our  consultations 
with,  Indians  ;  of  inclosing  our  stores  and  dwelling-houses  ; 
and  Bnally,  of  the  custom  obtaining  to  hoist  the  British 
flag  in  the  territory  belonging  to  the  United  States  of 
America.  I  shall  at  as  early  a  period  as  possible  present 
the  agents  of  the  N.  W.  Company  with  your  representations 
regarding  the  paying  duties  on  the  importation  of  goods  to 
be  sent  to  our  establishments  within  the  bounds  of  the  terri- 
tory oi  the  United  States,  as  also  their  being  entered  at  the 
custom  house  of  Michilimackinac  ;  but  I  beg  to  be  allowed 
to  present  for  consideration,  that  the  major  part  of  the 
goods  necessary  to  be  sent  to  the  said  establishments  for 
the  trade  of  the  ensuing  year,  are  now  actually  in  our  stores 
at  Kamanitiguia,  our  headquarters  on  Lake  Superior,  and 
that  it  would  cause  us  vast  expense  and  trouble  to  be 
obliged  to  convey  those  goods  back  to  Michilimackinac  to 
be  entered  at  the  custom-house  office.  We  therefore  pray 
that  the  word  of  gentlemen  with  regard  to  the  quantity  and 
quality  of  the  said  goods,  to  be  sent  to  said  establishment, 
may  be  considered  as  equivalent  to  the  certainty  of  a  cus- 
tom-house register.  Our  intention  has  never  been  to  injure 
your  traders,  paying  the  duties  established  by  law.  We 
hope  those  representations  to  your  government  respecting 
our  concerns  with  the  Indians  may  have  been  dictated  with 
truth,  and  not  exaggerated  by  envy  to  prejudice  our  inter- 
ests  and  to  throw  a  stain  on  our  character  which  may  require 
time  to  efface  from  the  rninds  of  a  people  to  whom  we  must 
ever  consider  ourselves  indebted  for  that  lenity  of  procedure 
of  which  the  present  is  so  notable  a  testimony.  The  in- 
closures  to  protect  our  stores  and  dwelling-houses  from  the 


i 


252 


LETTER,    M'GILLIS  TO  PIKE. 


7M 


insults  and  barbarity  of  savage  rudeness,  have  been  erected 
for  the  security  of  my  property  and  person  in  a  country, 
till  now,  exposed  to  the  wild  will  of  the  frantic  Indians. 
We  never  formed  the  smallest  idea  that  the  said  inclosurcs 
might  ever  be  useful  in  the  juncture  of  a  rupture  between 
the  two  powers,  nor  do  we  now  conceive  that  such  poor 
shifts  will  ever  be  employed  by  the  British  government  in 
a  country  overshadowed  with  wood  so  adequate  to  every 
purpose.  Forts  might  in  a  short  period  of  time  be  built 
far  superior  to  any  stockades  we  may  have  occasion  to 
erect. 

We  were  not  conscious.  Sir,  of  the  error  I  acknowledge 
we  have  been  guilty  of  committing,  by  exhibiting  to  view 
on  your  territory  any  standard  of  Great  Britain.  I  will 
pledge  myself  to  your  government,  that  I  will  use  my 
utmost  endeavors,  as  soon  as  possible,  to  prevent  the  future 
display  of  the  British  flag,  or  the  presenting  of  medals,  or 
the  exhibiting  to  public  view  any  other  mark  of  European 
power,  throughout  the  extent  of  territory  known  to  belong 
to  the  dominion  of  the  United  States.  The  custom  has 
long  been  established  and  we  innocently  and  inoffensively, 
as  we  imagined,  have  conformed  to  it  till  the  present 
day. 

Be  persuaded  that  on  no  consideration  shall  any  Indian 
be  entertained  on  political  subjects,  or  on  any  affairs  foreign 
to  our  trade;  and  that  reference  shall  be  made  to  the 
American  agents,  should  any  application  be  made  worthy 
such  reference.  Be  also  assured  that  we,  as  a  commercial 
company,  must  find  it  ever  our  interests  to  interfere  as  little 
as  possible  with  affairs  of  government  in  the  course  of 
trade,  ignorant  as  we  are  in  this  rude  and  distant  country 
of  the  political  views  of  nations. 

We  are  convinced  that  the  inestimable  advantages  arising 
from  the  endeavors  of  your  government  to  establish  a  more 
peaceful  course  of  trade  in  this  part  of  the  territory  belong- 
ing to  the  United  States  are  not  acquired  through  the  mere 
liberality  of  a  nation,  and  we  are  ready  to  contribute  to  the 


mn  I 


LETTER,  M'GILLIS  TO  PIKE. 


253 


expense  necessarily  attending  them.  We  are  not  averse  to 
paying  the  common  duties  established  by  law,  and  will  ever 
be  ready  to  conform  ourselves  to  all  rules  and  regulations 
of  trade  that  may  be  established  according  to  common 
justice. 

I  beg  to  be  allowed  to  say  that  we  have  reason  to  hope 
that  every  measure  will  be  adopted  to  secure  and  facilitate 
the  trade  with  the  Indians;  and  these  hopes  seem  to  be 
confirmed  beyond  the  smallest  idea  of  doubt,  wher.  we  see 
a  man  sent  among  us  who,  instead  of  private  considerations 
to  pecuniary  views,  prefers  the  honor,  dignity,  and  lenity  of 
his  government,  and  whose  transactions  are  in  every  resp'  ' 
so  conformable  to  equity.  When  we  behold  an  armed 
force  ready  to  pro^  j:.  >r  chastise  as  necessity  or  policy  may 
direct,  we  know  not  how  to  express  our  gratitude  to  that 
people  whot';  only  view  seems  to  be  to  promote  the  happi- 
ness of  all,  the  savages  that  rove  over  the  wild  confines  of 
their  domains  not  excepted. 

It  is  to  you.  Sir,  we  feel  ourselves  most  greatly  indebted, 
whose  claim  to  honor,  esteem,  and  respect  will  ever  be  held 
in  high  estimation  by  myself  and  associates.  The  danger 
and  hardships,  by  your  fortitude  vanquished  and  by  your 
perseverance  overcome,  are  signal,  and  will  ever  be  preserved 
in  the  annals  of  the  N.  W.  Company.  Were  it  solely  from 
consideration  of  those  who  have  exposed  their  lives  in  a 
long  and  perilous  march  through  a  country  where  they  had 
every  distress  to  suffer,  and  many  dangers  to  expect, — and 
this  with  a  view  to  establish  peace  in  a  savage  country, — we 
should  think  ourselves  under  the  most  strict  obligation  to 
assist  them.  But  we  know  we  are  in  a  country  where  hos- 
pitality and  gratitude  are  to  be  considered  above  every 
other  virtue,  and  therefore  have  offered  for  their  relief  what 
our  poor  means  will  allow :  and.  Sir,  permit  me  to  embrace 
this  opportunity  to  testify  that  I  feel  myself  highly  honored 
by  your  acceptance  of  such  accommodations  as  my  humble 
roof  could  aflford. 

With  great  consideration  and  high  respect  for  the  govern- 


254 


SPEECH,  PIKE  TO  THE  CHIPPEWAS. 


ment  of  the  United  States,  allow  me  to  express  my  esteem 
and  regard  for  yourself. 

I  am,  Sir, 
Your  obedient  humble  servant, 

[Signed]     H.  M'GlLLlS, 

Of  N.  W.  Company. 
Lieut.  Pike, 
ist.  Regt.  United  States  Infantry. 


Art.  10.     Speech,  Pike  to  the  Sauteaux,  in  a  Council  at  Leech 
Lake,  Feb.  i6th,  1806.    {Orig.  No.  7,  pp.  ig-22.) 

Brothers:  A  few  months  since  the  Spaniards  shut  up 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  and  prevented  the  Americans 
from  floating  down  to  the  sea.  This  your  father,  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States,  would  not  admit  of.  He  there- 
fore took  such  measures  as  to  open  the  river,  remove  the 
Spaniards  from  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi  to  a  great  dis- 
tance on  the  other  side  of  the  Missouri,  and  open  the  road 
from  the  ocean  of  the  east  to  that  of  the  west.  The  Amer- 
icans being  then  at  peace  with  all  the  world,  your  great 
fathe»-,  the  President  of  the  United  States,  began  to  look 
round  on  his  red  children,  in  order  to  see  what  he  could  do 
to  render  them  happy  and  sensible  of  his  protection.  For 
that  purpose  he  sent  two  of  his  Captains,  Lewis  and  Clark, 
up  the  Missouri,  to  pass  on  to  the  west  sea,  in  order  to  see 
all  his  new  children,  to  go  round  the  world  that  way,  and 
return  by  water.  They  stayed  the  first  winter  at  the  Man- 
dane's"  village,  where  you  might  have  heard  of  them.    This 

"  The  first  visit  of  white  men  to  the  Mandans  was  made  in  1738,  under  the 
leadership  of  Pierre  Gaultier  de  Varennes,  otherwise  Le  Sieur  Verendrye.  A 
relation  of  this  journey,  by  Rev.  Dr.  Edward  D.  Neill,  occupies  pp.  113-iig  of 
the  Macalester  College  Contributions,  Department  of  History,  Literature,  and 
Political  Science,  Second  Series,  No.  5,  which  I  extract  in  substance,  as  follows ; 

On  Sept.  24th,  1738,  Verendrye  was  at  the  confluence  of  the  Red  River  of 
the  North  with  the  Assiniboine  r.  Two  days  afterward  he  began  his  jour- 
ney up  the  latter,  and  on  the  30th,  having  found  a  suitable  place,  he  estab- 
lished Fort  La  Reine.     Within  a  week,  Mgr.  de  La  Marque  (otherwise  Charles 


ill  lui 


SPEECH,   PIKE  TO    THE  CHIPPEWAS. 


255 


year  your  great  father  directed  his  great  war-chief  (General 
Wilkinson)  at  St.  Louis,  to  send  a  number  of  his  young 
warriors  up  the  Missouri,  Illinois,  Osage  River,  and  other 
courses,  to  learn  the  situation  of  his  red  children,  to  encour- 
age the  good,  punish  the  bad,  and  make  peace  between  them 
all  by  persuading  them  to  lay  by  the  hatchet  and  follow  the 
young  warriors  to  St.  Louis,  where  the  great  war-chief  will 
open  their  ears  that  they  may  hear  the  truth,  and  their  eyes, 
to  see  what  is  right. 
Brothers  :  I  was  chosen  to  ascend  the  Mississippi,  to 

Nolan,  Noland,  or  Nolant,  son  of  J.  B.  Nolan  and  Marie  Anne  La  Marque, 
b.  1694),  and  his  brother,  Sieur  Nolan,  with  eight  men,  arrived  in  two  canoes 
from  Mackinac.  On  Oct.  i6th  Verendrye  selected  10  of  his  own  men  and  10  of 
La  Marque's  party  for  the  Mandan  expedition,  and  their  march  began  on  the 
1 8th.  The  party  consisted  of  Verendrye,  with  two  of  his  sons  ;  La  Marque 
and  his  brother  Nolan ;  together  with  some  voyageurs  and  Indians — in  all  52 
persons.  On  the  21st,  at  the  distance  of  26  leagues  from  Fort  La  Reine,  they 
reached  the  first  (no  doubt  Turtle)  mountain.  After  slow  marches  southwest- 
wardly,  the  first  Mandann  were  met  on  the  morning  of  the  28th.  A  chief  came 
and  stood  near  Verendrye,  and  one  of  his  band  presented  corn  on  the  cob  and 
some  tobacco.  These  Indians  were  only  covered  with  a  butfalo-robe,  wearing 
no  breech-clout.  The  Mandan  chief  requested  the  French  to  visit  his  village, 
and  left  on  the  30th,  accompanied  by  about  600  Indians.  On  the  evening  of  the 
third  day's  march  an  Assiniboine,  one  of  a  number  of  this  tribe  who  had  already 
joined  the  expedition,  stole  a  bag  containing  Verendrye's  papers  and  other 
valuables  ;  two  men  were  hired  to  pursue  the  thief,  and  they  captured  him.  On 
the  morning  of  the  fourth  day's  march  camp  was  broken  early  in  order  to  reach 
the  Mandan  settlement.  A  'hort  distance  from  the  village  they  were  met  on  an 
elevation  by  a  delegation  of  Mandans,  who  presented  the  calumet.  Verendrye 
directed  his  son,  the  cheva'.;er,  to  draw  up  the  French  in  line,  place  the  flag  of 
Frauce  four  paces  before  them,  and  fire  three  volleys.  At  4  p.  m.,  Dec.  3d, 
Verendrye  and  his  associates  entered  the  village  and  were  conducted  to  the  lodge 
of  the  principal  chief,  where  a  bag  containing  presents,  and  also  300  livres,  was 
stolen.  The  Assiniboines  were  much  afraid  of  the  Sioux,  from  whom  they  had 
separated  years  before,  and  the  Mandans,  not  wishing  to  entertain  Verendrye's 
escort,  purposely  raised  a  rumor  that  the  Sioux  were  coming,  whereupon  the 
Assiniboines  decamped.  Verendrye  was  embarrassed  for  want  of  a  good  inter- 
preter, but  learned  that  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  lower  down,  were  the 
Pananas,  and  then  the  Pananis,  at  war  with  each  other.  Six  days  after  the 
Assiniboines  decamped.  Chevalier  Verendrye,  Sienr  Nolan,  six  Frenchmen, 
and  several  Mandans  visited  a  settlement  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  then 
Sieur  Verendrye  and  Mgr.  de  La  Marque  inspected  the  village.  There  were  130 
cabins.     A  fort  was  built  on  an  elevation  in  the  open  prairie,  surrounded  by  a 


i:i:"-' 


ifr 


Illil'f  i  f ; 


li^'  I  '^im 


356 


SPEECH,   PIKE  TO  THE   CHIPPEWAS. 


bear  to  his  red  children  the  words  of  their  father ;  and  the 
Great  Spirit  has  opened  the  eyes  and  ears  of  all  the  nations 
that  I  have  passed  to  listen  to  my  words.  The  Sauks  and 
Reynards  are  planting  corn  and  raising  cattle.  The  Winne- 
bagos  continue  peaceable,  as  usual,  and  even  the  Sioux  have 
laid  by  the  hatchet  at  my  request.  Yes,  my  brothers, 
the  Sioux,  wl.  o  have  so  long  and  so  obstinately  waged  war 
against  the  Chipeways,  have  agreed  to  lay  by  the  hatchet, 
smoke  the  calumet,  and  become  again  your  brothers,  as  they 
were  wont  to  be." 

ditch  about  15  feet  deep  and  from  15  to  18  feet  wide.  (Compare  A.  J.  Hill's 
plot  of  Mandan  fortification,  in  T.  H.  Lewis'  Minor  Antiq.  Art.  No.  iv,  p.  5, 
1884.)  The  cabins  were  spacious,  separated  into  several  apartments  by  thick 
planks,  and  goods  were  hung  on  posts  in  large  bags.  The  men  were  naked, 
covered  only  with  a  buffalo  robe  ;  the  women  also,  excepting  a  loose  apron  about 
a  foot  long.  On  the  evening  of  Dec.  4th  Verendrye's  son  and  Nolan  came  back 
and  reported  that  the  village  they  had  visited  was  twice  as  large  as  that  where 
they  were.  On  Dec.  8th  the  latitude  was  taken  and  found  to  be  48°  12'  N.  It 
was  now  decided  to  leave  two  men  to  winter  with  the  Mandans  to  acquire  their 
language,  and  return  with  the  rest  to  Fort  La  Reine.  Before  they  departed  the 
head  chief  was  presented  with  a  flag,  and  a  leaden  plate  upon  which  the  arms  of 
France  were  cut.  When  ready  to  leave,  Verendrye  fell  sick  and  could  not  travel 
for  two  or  three  days.  On  Dec.  24th,  still  weak,  he  reached  the  Assiniboine  vil- 
lage, and  was  agreeably  surprised  when  the  box  of  papers  which  had  been  stolen 
was  returned  in  good  order.  On  Jan.  gth,  1739,  the  first  height  of  land  between 
the  Missouri  and  Assiniboine  rivers  was  reached ;  here  Verendrye  remained,  while 
La  Marque  hurried  on  to  Fort  La  Reine.  There  he  arrived  Feb.  ist,  and  sent 
back  assistance  to  Verendrye,  who  reached  the  post,  greatly  fatigued,  on  the  loth 
of  this  month.  The  two  voyagei.rs  who  had  been  left  with  the  Mandans  returned 
to  the  fort  Sept.  27th,  1739,  with  reports  representing  more  fiction  than  fact. 

In  1740  Verendrye  visited  Canada,  and  on  Oct.  13th,  1741,  he  returned  to 
Fort  La  Reine.  He  afterward  established  a  fifth  post  called  Fort  Dauphin  at 
Lac  des  Prairies,  and  a  sixth.  Fort  Bourbon,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Poskoyac  r. 
(1.  e.,  the  Saskatchewan).  In  April,  1742,  the  Chevalier  Verendrye  and  his 
brother  left  Fort  La  Reine,  and  by  way  of  the  Mandan  village,  on  a  southwest- 
ward  course,  are  supposed  to  have  reached  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  Januar)', 
1743.     The  Sieur  Verendrye  died  Dec.  6th,  1749. 

"  "As  they  were  wont  to  be"  is  a  particularly  fine  rhetorical  climax  to  what 
our  young  friend  so  innocently  prides  himself  on  having  accomplished.  It 
must  have  made  the  most  stolid  savage  of  them  all  smile  in  his  sleeve, — or  what- 
ever article  of  nether  apparel  he  wore, — as  there  never  had  been  a  time  in  his 
memory,  or  in  the  memories  of  any  of  his  ancestors  as  far  back  as  his  tribal 
traditions  went  in  the  dim  past,  when  the  Sioux  and  Chippewas  were  not  heredi- 


SPEECH,  PIKE  TO  THE  CKIPPEWAS. 


257 


Brothers  :  You  behold  the  pipe  of  Wabasha  as  a  proof 
of  what  I  say.  Little  Corbeau,  Tills  [Fils]  De  Pinchow,  and 
L'Aile  Rouge  had  marched  250  warriors  to  revenge  the 
blood  of  their  women  and  children,  slain  last  year  at  the  St. 
Peters.  I  sent  a  runner  after  them,  stopped  their  march, 
and  met  them  in  council  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peters, 
where  they  promised  to  remain  peaceable  until  my  return ; 
and  if  the  Ouchipawah  [Chippewa]  chiefs  accompanied  me, 
to  receive  them  as  brothers  and  accompany  us  to  St.  Louis, 
there  to  bury  the  hatchet  and  smoke  the  pipe  in  the  pres- 
ence of  our  great  war-chief ;  and  to  request  him  to  punish 
those  who  first  broke  the  peace. 


tary  foes,  who  killed  and  scalped  each  other  with  alacrious  and  comprehensive 
reciprocity.  It  is  true  that  in  rare  sporadic  cases,  when  both  sets  of  red  brethren 
were  exhausted  in  war,  or  when  each  found  it  necessary  to  let  up  a  little  on  the 
other  for  a  chance  to  hunt  in  peace  for  the  necessaries  of  life,  temporary  truces 
had  been  agreed  upon.  But  such  spasms  were  supposed  by  neither  party  to  last 
longer  than  suited  the  convenience  of  either ;  nay,  the  very  councils  in  which 
such  a  peace  was  patched  up  sometimes  ended  in  fresh  bloodshed  on  the  sacred 
spot ;  and  the  annals  of  all  the  Indians  of  North  America  might  be  sifted 
through  and  through  to  discover  a  more  notable  case  of  inveterate,  perpetual,  - 
and  ferocious  warfare  than  is  afforded  by  the  hereditary  hostility  of  these  two 
powerful  nations.  Pike  was  no  doubt  sincere  and  veracious  in  his  representa- 
tions of  the  happy  results  of  his  peace-making  ;  but  his  ignorance  of  the  facts 
in  the  case  must  have  been  complete,  or  he  would  have  known  that  such  a  truce 
as  he  effected  was  sure  to  be  broken  as  soon  as  his  back  was  turned — if  not 
sooner.  Furthermore,  the  expediency  of  interfering  with  such  affairs  may 
reasonably  be  doubted  ;  for,  paradoxical  as  it  may  appear,  a  patched-up  peace 
between  tribes  whose  hostilities  are  hereditary  costs  more  lives  than  it  saves,  and 
makes  more  trouble  than  it  prevents.  The  vigilance  of  both  parties  is  relaxed, 
private  enterprise  replaces  public  policy,  and  individual  murders  multiply  rap- 
idly till  the  normal  equilibrium  of  forces  is  readjusted  by  open  declaration  of 
the  always  existent  intertribal  hostility.  War  is  the  necessary  and  natural  state 
of  affairs  among  savages  ;  it  is  the  main  business  of  their  lives,  and  the  princi- 
pal if  not  the  only  means  of  attaining  all  that  is  dearest  to  their  hearts  ;  and  it 
is  better  for  all  parties  to  proceed  on  that  understanding  in  a  straightforward, 
businesslike  way  than  to  bushwhack  for  surreptitious  scalps.  Such  trophies 
of  prowess  must  be  had  in  any  event  and  at  all  hazards  ;  and  secret  assassi- 
nations to  secure  them  represent  in  the  aggregate  a  higher  death-rate  than 
that  resulting  from  pitched  battles.  Meddling  with  unmanageable  things  is 
never  good  policy,  and  interference  with  intertribal  relations  of  savages  is 
generally  inhumane  as  well  as  impolitic. 


m 


258 


SPEECH,  PIKE  TO  THE  CHIPPEWAS. 


Brothers  :  I  sent  flags  and  a  message  up  the  St.  Peters 
to  the  bands  of  Sioux  on  that  river,  requesting  them  to 
remain  quiet,  and  not  to  go  to  war.  The  People  of  the 
Leaves  [Gens  des  Feuilles]  received  my  message  and  sent 
me  word  that  they  would  obey;  but  the  Yanctongs  and 
Sussitongs  had  left  the  St.  Peters  previous  to  my  message 
arriving,  and  did  not  receive  it.  When  I  left  my  fort  they 
had  appointed  a  day  for  50  of  their  chiefs  and  warriors  to 
come  and  see  me,  but  I  could  not  wait  for  them ;  so  that, 
as  to  their  dispositions  for  peace  or  war,  I  cannot  answer 
positively. 

Brothers  :  I  have  therefore  come  to  fetch  some  of  your 
approved  chiefs  with  me  to  St.  Louis. 

Brothers  :  In  speaking  to  you  I  speak  to  brave  warriors. 
It  is  therefore  not  my  intention  to  deceive  you.  Possibly 
we  may  meet  with  some  bad  people  who  may  wish  to  do  us 
ill ;  but  if  so,  we  will  die  together,  certain  that  our  fathers, 
the  Americans,  will  settle  with  them  for  our  blood. 

Brothers  :  I  find  you  have  received  from  your  traders 
English  medals  and  flags.  These  you  must  deliver  up,  and 
your  chiefs  who  go  with  me  shall  receive  others  from  the 
American  government,  in  their  room. 

Brothers  :  Traders  have  no  authority  to  make  chiefs ; 
and  in  doing  this  they  have  done  what  is  not  right.  It  is 
only  great  chiefs,  appointed  by  your  fathers,  who  have  that 
authority.  But  at  the  same  time  you  are  under  considerable 
obligations  to  your  traders,  who  come  over  large  waters, 
high  mountains,  and  up  swift  falls,  to  supply  you  with 
clothing  for  your  women  and  children,  and  ammunition  for 
your  hunters,  to  feed  you,  and  keep  you  from  perishing  with 
cold. 

Brothers:  Your  chiefs  should  see  your  traders  done 
justice,  oblige  your  young  men  to  pay  their  credits,  and 
protect  them  from  insults  ;  and  your  traders,  on  their  part, 
must  not  cheat  the  Indians,  but  give  them  the  value  of 
their  skins. 

Brothers  :  Your  father  is  going  to  appoint  chiefs  of  his 


m 


I 


pit 


SPEECHES,  CHIPPEWA  CHIEFS  TO  PIKE. 


259 


own  to  reside  among  you,  to  see  justice  done  to  his  white 
and  red  children,  who  will  punish  those  who  deserve  punish- 
ment, without  reference  to  the  color  of  their  skin. 

Brothers:  I  understand  that  one  of  your  young  men 
killed  an  American  at  Red  Lake  last  year,  but  the  mur- 
derer is  far  off.  Let  him  keep  so — send  him  where  we 
never  may  hear  of  him  more  ;  for  were  he  here  I  would  be 
obliged  to  demand  him  of  you,  and  make  my  young  men 
shoot  him.  My  hands  on  this  journey  are  yet  clear  of  blood 
— may  the  Great  Spirit  keep  them  so ! 

Brothers  :  We  expect,  in  the  summer,  soldiers  to  come 
to  the  St.  Peters.  Your  chiefs  who  go  with  me  may  either 
come  up  with  them,  or  some  traders  who  return  sooner. 
They  may  make  their  selection. 

BroTiIERS:  Your  father  finds  that  the  rum  with  which 
you  are  supplied  by  the  traders  is  the  occasion  of  quarrels, 
murders,  and  bloodshed;  and  that,  instead  of  buying 
clothing  for  your  women  and  children,  you  spend  your  skins 
in  liquor,  etc.  He  has  determined  to  direct  his  young 
warriors  and  chiefs  to  prohibit  it,  and  keep  it  from  among 
you.  But  I  have  found  the  traders  here  with  a  great  deal 
of  rum  on  hand.  I  have  therefore  given  them  permission 
to  sell  what  they  have,  that  you  may  forget  it  by  degrees, 
against  next  year,  when  none  will  be  suffered  to  come  in  the 
country. 

Art.  II.  Speeches,  Chippewa  Chiefs  "  to  Pike,  at  Leech  Lake, 
Feb.  i6th,  1806.    {Orig.  No.  8,  pp.  22,  2j.) 

ist.  Sucre  of  Red  lake  ( Wiscoup). 

My  FATHER :  I  have  heard  and  understood  the  words  of 
our  great  father.  It  overjoys  me  to  see  you  make  peace 
among  us.     I  should  have  accompanied  you  had  my  family 

"  The  three  whose  answers  to  Pike's  address  are  given  in  this  article  have 
already  been  sufficiently  identified:  see  back,  note  ',  p.  156,  note  '",  p.  169, 
note  '•,  p.  172.  It  is  amusing  to  observe  the  unanimity  with  which  they 
declined  the  polite  invitation  to  visit  General  Wilkinson  at  St.  Louis.     Old 


-'^ 


m\    :  :'ti 


26o 


SPEECHES,  CHIPPEWA  CHIEFS  TO  PIKE. 


been  present,  and  would  have  gone  to  see  my  father,  the 
great  war-chief. 

My  FATHER  :  This  medal  I  hold  in  my  hands  I  received 
from  the  English  chiefs.  I  willingly  deliver  it  up  to  you. 
Wabasha's  calumet,  with  which  I  am  presented,  I  receive 
with  all  my  heart.  Be  assured  that  I  will  use  my  best 
endeavors  to  keep  my  young  men  quiet.  There  is  my  calu- 
met. I  send  it  to  my  father  the  great  war-chief.  What 
does  it  signify  that  I  should  go  to  see  him  ?  Will  not  my 
pipe  answer  the  same  purpose  ? 

My  FATHER:  You  will  meet  with  the  Sioux  on  your 
return.  You  will  make  them  smoke  my  pipe,  and  tell  them 
that  I  have  let  fall  my  hatchet. 

My  FATHER :  Tell  the  Sioux  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
river  St.  Peters  to  mark  trees  with  the  figure  of  a  calumet, 
that  we  of  Red  Lake  who  may  go  that  way,  should  we  see 
them,  may  make  peace  with  them,  being  assured  of  their 
pacific  disposition  when  we  see  the  calumet  marked  on  the 
trees. 


2d.  The  Chief  de  la  Terre  of  Leech  lake  {Obigouitte). 

My  FATHER :  I  am  glad  to  hear  that  we  and  the  Sioux 
are  now  brothers,  peace  being  made  between  us.  If  I  have 
received  a  medal  from  the  English  traders,  it  was  not  as 
a  mark  of  rank  or  distinction,  as  I  considered  it,  but  merely 
because  I  made  good  hunts  and  paid  my  debts.  Had  Sucre 
been  able  to  go  and  see  our  father,  the  great  war-chief, 

Sweet's  regrets  strike  me  as  the  most  ingenuous.  What  was  the  use  of  his 
going  in  person  if  he  sent  his  pipe  ?  If  we  send  our  card  to  a  functionary  in 
acknowledgment  of  an  invitation,  is  not  the  etiquette  of  the  occasion  accom- 
plished by  that  civil  ceremony  7  Sucre's  suggestion  regarding  the  Sioux  of  the 
upper  Minnesota  r.,  whose  intentions  were  doubtful,  was  eminently  practical— 
if  they  wanted  peace,  let  them  so  signify  in  the  usual  manner.  Chef  de  la  Terre 
seems  to  have  been  less  resourceful  in  polite  excuses  than  the  other  two.  He 
could  not  go  unless  Sucre  did  ;  but  some  other  day,  perhaps,  etc.  Flat  Mouth's 
remarks  were  the  most  astute.  His  excuse,  whether  feigned  or  not,  was  good  ; 
but  as  to  his  intention  of  burying  the  hatchet  so  far  out  of  sight  that  he  would  let 
the  Sioux  strike  him  even  once  without  digging  it  up,  we  may  indulge  a  doubt. 


SPEECHES,  CHIPPEWA   CHIEFS   TO  PIKE. 


261 


ther,  the 

received 
,  to  you. 
I  receive 
my  best 
my  calu- 
f.  What 
I  not  my 

:  on  your 
tell  them 

irt  of  the 
a  calumet, 
lid  we  see 
:d  of  their 
:ed  on  the 


•ouitte). 

the  Sioux 

If  I  have 

vas  not  as 

lut  merely 

Had  Sucre 

war-chief, 


I  should  have  accompanied  him ;  but  I  am  determined  to 
go  to  Michilimackinac  next  spring  to  see  my  brothers  the 
Americans. 

jd.  Geuelle  Platte  of  Leech  lake  {Eskibugeckoge). 

My  father  :  My  heart  beat  high  with  joy  when  I  heard 
that  you  had  arrived,  and  that  all  the  nations  through  which 
you  passed  had  received  and  made  peace  among  them. 

My  FATHER  :  You  ask  me  to  accompany  you  to  meet  our 
father,  the  great  war-chief.  This  I  would  willingly  do,  but 
certain  considerations  prevent  me.  I  have  sent  my  calumet 
to  all  the  Sauteaux  who  hunt  round  about,  to  assemble  to 
form  a  war-party  ;  should  I  be  absent,  they,  when  assembled, 
might  strike  those  with  whom  we  have  made  peace,  and 
thus  kill  our  brothers.  I  must  therefore  remain  here  to 
prevent  them  from  assembling,  as  I  fear  that  there  are 
many  who  have  begun  already  to  prepare  to  meet  me.  I 
present  you  with  the  medal  of  my  uncle  here  present.  He 
received  it  from  the  English  chiefs  as  a  recompense  for  his 
good  hunts,  i^  for  me,  I  have  no  medal  here ;  it  is  at  my 
tent,  and  I  will  cheerfully  deliver  it  up.  That  medal  was 
given  me  by  the  English  traders,  in  consideration  of  some- 
thing that  I  had  done ;  and  I  can  say  that  three-fourths  of 
those  here  present  belong  to  me. 

My  FATHER :  I  promise  you,  and  you  may  confide  in 
my  word,  that  I  will  preserve  peace;  that  I  bury  my 
hatchet ;  and  that  even  should  the  Sioux  come  and  strike 
me,  for  the  first  time  I  would  not  take  up  my  hatchet ;  but 
should  they  come  and  strike  me  a  second  time,  I  would  dig 
up  my  hatchet  and  revenge  myself. 


Art.  12.  Extract  of  a  letter,  Pike  to  Robert  Dickson,  Lower 
Red  Cedar  Lake,  Feb.  26th,  1806.    {prig.  No.  p,  pp.  23,  24.) 

Mr.  Grant  was  prepared  to  go  on  a  trading  voyage  among 
the  Fols  Avoins ;  but  that  was  what  I  could  not  by  any 
means  admit  of,  and  I  hope  that,  on  a  moment's  reflection, 


■;'!!  :!#; 


262     LETTERS,  PIKE   TO   DICKSON   AND    LA   JEUNESSE. 

you  will  admit  the  justice  of  my  refusal.  For  what  could 
be  a  greater  piece  of  injustice  than  for  me  to  permit  you  to 
send  goods,  illegally  brought  into  the  country,  down  into 
the  same  quarter,  to  trade  for  the  credits  of  men  who  have 
paid  their  duties,  regularly  taken  out  licenses,  and  in  other 
respects  acted  conformably  to  law  ?  They  might  exclaim 
with  justice, "  What !  Lt.  Pike,  not  content  with  suffering 
the  laws  to  slumber  when  it  was  his  duty  to  have  executed 
them,  has  now  sufifered  the  N.  W.  Company's  agents  to  come 
even  here  to  violate  them,  and  injure  the  citizens  of  the 
United  States — certainly  he  must  be  corrupted  to  admit  this." 
This,  Sir,  would  be  the  natural  conclusion  of  all  persons. 


Art.  ij.  Letter,  Pike  to  La  Jeunesse.     {Orig.  No.  io,p.  24..) 
g,j^ .  Grand  Isle,  Upper  Mississippi,  Apr.  9th,  1806. 

Being  informed  that  you  have  arrived  here  with  an  inten- 
tion of  selling  spirituous  liquors  to  the  savages  of  this 
quarter,  together  with  other  merchandise  under  your  charge, 
I  beg  leave  to  inform  you  that  the  sale  of  spirituous  liquors 
on  the  Indian  territories,  to  any  savages  whatsoever,  is  con- 
trary to  a  law  of  the  United  States  for  regulating  trade  with 
the  savages  and  preserving  peace  on  the  frontiers ;  and  that 
notwithstanding  the  custom  has  hitherto  obtained  on  the 
Upper  Mississippi,  no  person  whatsoever  has  authority 
therefor.  As  the  practice  may  have  a  tendency  to  occasion 
broils  and  dissensions  among  the  savages,  thereby  occasion- 
ing bloodshed  and  an  infraction  of  the  good  understanding 
which  now,  through  my  endeavors,  so  happily  exists,  I  have, 
at  your  particular  request,  addressed  you  this  note  in  writing, 
informing  you  that  in  case  of  an  infraction  I  shall  conceive 
it  my  duty,  as  an  officer  of  the  United  States,  to  prosecute 
according  to  the  pains  and  penalties  of  the  law. 
I  am,  Sir, 

With  all  due  consideration, 
Your  obedient  servant, 

Mr.  La  Jennesse.  [Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 


■m 


3SE. 

at  could 
it  you  to 
)wn  into 
vho  have 

in  other 
:  exclaim 

suffering 
executed 
s  to  come 
ms  of  the 
Jmitthis." 
;  persons. 

,  10,  p.  24.) 
9th,  1806. 
h  an  inten- 
res  of  this 
our  charge, 
lous  liquors 
;ver,  is  con- 
trade  with 
•s ;  and  that 
Ined  on  the 
|s  authority 
to  occasion 
ly  occasion- 
[derstanding 
lists,  I  have, 
;e  in  writing, 
all  conceive 
:o  prosecute 


LETTER,   PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 


363 


Art.  14.  Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.   {Orig.  No.  it,  pp.  25,  26.) 

Prairie  De  Chien,  Apr.  18,  1806. 
Dear  General  : 

I  arrived  here  within  the  hour,  and  as  Mr.  Jearreau,  of 
Cahokia,  embarks  for  St.  Louis  early  to-morrow  morning,  I 
embrace  this  opportunity  to  give  a  slight  sketch  of  the 
events  of  my  expedition.  Being  obliged  to  steal  the  hours 
from  my  repose,  I  hope  the  General  will  pardon  the  concise- 
ness of  my  epistle. 

I  pushed  forward  last  October  with  all  eagerness,  in  hopes 
to  make  Lake  De  Sable,  and  return  to  St.  Louis  in  the 
autumn.  The  weather  was  mild  and  promising  until  the 
middle  of  the  month,  when  a  sudden  change  took  place  and 
the  ice  immediately  commenced  running.  I  was  then  con- 
scious of  my  inability  to  return,  as  the  falls  and  other  obsta- 
cles would  retain  me  until  the  river  would  close.  I  then 
conceived  it  best  to  station  part  of  my  men,  and  push  my 
oiscovery  with  the  remainder  on  foot.  I  marched  with  1 1 
soldiers  and  my  interpreter,  700  miles,  to  the  source  of  the 
Mississippi,  through  (I  may  without  vanity  say)  as  many 
hardships  as  almost  any  party  of  Americans  ever  experienced, 
by  cold  and  hunger.  I  was  on  the  communication  of  Red 
river  and  the  Mississippi,  the  former  being  a  water  of  Hud- 
son's bay."  The  British  flag,  which  was  expanded  on  some 
very  respectable  positions,  has  given  place  to  that  of  the 
United  States  wherever  we  passed ;  likewise,  we  have  the 
faith  and  honor  of  the  N.  W.  Company  for  about  $13,000 
duties  this  year;  and  by  the  voyage  peace  is  established 
between  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs.  These  objects  I  have 
been  happy  enough  to  accomplish  without  the  loss  of  one 
man,  although  once  fired  on.     I  expect  hourly  the  Sussi- 

"This  is  true  in  a  certain  sense.  When  Pike  was  on  Cass  1.,  at  the  mouth  of 
Turtle  r.,  Feb.  I2th-i4th.,  i8o6,  he  was  on  a  Mississippian  water-way  of  com- 
munication with  Red  r.  and  so  with  Hudsonian  waters.  But  this  must  not  be 
taken  to  indicate  that  he  ever  reached  the  divide  between  these  waters,  still  less 
that  he  passed  to  Red  r.  or  Red  1.  The  fact  that  it  has  been  so  taken  gives 
occasion  for  this  note.     For  the  situation  at  the  dates  said,  see  note  ',  p.  157. 


!i 


m 


264 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 


tongs,  Yanctongs,  Wachpecoutes,  and  three  other  bands  of 
Sioux ;  some  are  from  the  head  of  the  St.  Peters,  and  some 
from  the  plains  west  of  that  river.  From  here  I  bring  with 
me  a  few  of  the  principal  men  only,  agreeably  to  your  orders ; 
also,  some  chiefs  of  the  Fols  Avoins  or  Menomones,  and 
Winebagos,  the  latter  of  whom  have  murdered  three  men 
since  my  passing  here  last  autumn.  The  murderers  I  shall 
demand,  and  am  in  expectation  of  obtaining  two,  for  whom 
I  now  have  irons  making,  and  expect  to  have  them  with  me 
on  my  arrival.  Indeed,  Sir,  the  insolence  of  the  savages  in 
this  quarter  is  unbounded  ;  and  unless  an  immediate  ex- 
ample is  made,  we  shall  certainly  be  obliged  to  enter  into  a 
general  war  with  them. 

My  party  has  been  some  small  check  to  them  this  winter, 
as  I  was  determined  to  preserve  the  dignity  of  our  flag,  or 
die  in  the  attempt. 

I  presume.  General,  that  my  voyage  will  be  productive  of 
much  new,  useful,  and  interesting  information  for  our  gov- 
ernment, although  detailed  in  the  unpolished  diction  of  a 
soldier  of  fortune. 

The  river  broke  up  at  my  stockade,  600  miles  above  here, 
on  the  7th  inst.,  and  Lake  Pepin  was  passable  for  boats  only 
on  the  14th.  Thus  you  may  perceive.  Sir,  I  have  not  been 
slow  in  my  descent,  leaving  all  the  traders  behind  me. 
From  the  time  it  will  take  to  make  my  arrangements,  and 
the  state  of  the  water,  I  calculate  on  arriving,  at  the  canton- 
ment [Belle  Fontaine]  on  the  4th  of  May;  and  hope  my 
General  will  be  assured  that  nothing  but  the  most  insur- 
mountable obstacles  shall  detain  me  one  moment. 

N.  B.  I  beg  leave  to  caution  the  General  against  attend- 
ing to  the  reports  of  any  individuals  relating  to  this  country, 
as  the  most  unbounded  prejudices  and  party  rancor  pervade 
almost  generally. 

I  am,  dear  Sir, 

With  great  consideration, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 


til 


SPEECH,  PIKE   TO   THE   WINNEBAGOES. 


265 


jands  of 
nd  some 
ing  with 
r  orders ; 
nes,  and 
iree  men 
rs  I  shall 
for  whom 
I  with  me 
avages  in 
ediate  ex- 
ter  into  a 

his  winter, 
,ur  flag,  or 

jductive  of 
)r  our  gov- 
iction  of  a 

ibove  here, 
r  boats  only 
'e  not  been 

ehind  me. 

ments,  and 
the  canton- 
d  hope  my 
most  insur- 

t. 

inst  attend- 
bis  country, 
cor  pervade 


It, 

I  PIKE,  Lt. 


Art.  IS-**    Speech,  Pike  to  the  Puants  at  Prairie  Du  Chien, 
Apr.  20th,  1S06.    {Part  of  Orig.  No.  12,  pp.  26,  27.) 

Brothers:  When  I  passed  here  last  autumn  I  requested 
to  see  you  on  my  return.  I  am  pleased  to  see  you  have 
listened  to  my  words.  It  pleased  the  Great  Spirit  to  open 
the  ears  of  all  the  nations  through  which  I  passed,  to  hear 
and  attend  to  the  words  of  their  father.  Peace  has  been 
established  between  two  of  the  most  powerful  nations  in 
this  quarter. 

Notwithstanding  all  this,  some  of  your  nation  have  been 
bold  enough  to  kill  some  of  the  white  people.  Not  content 
with  firing  on  tht  canoes  descending  the  Ouiscousing  last 
autumn,  they  have  killed  a  man  on  Rock  river,  when  sitting 
peaceably  in  his  tent.  They  have  also  recently  murdered  a 
young  man  near  this  place,  without  any  provocation  what- 
ever. As  an  officer  of  the  United  States,  it  is  my  duty  to 
derr.and  the  murderers ;  and  I  do  now  demand  them. 

Brothers:  In  this  action  I  am  not  influenced  or  urged 
by  any  individual  of  this  place,  or  the  people  generally ;  no 
more  than  as  it  is  my  duty  to  give  all  our  citizens  all  the 
protection  in  my  power.  I  will  not  deceive  you.  If  the 
prisoners  are  delivered  to  me,  I  shall  put  them  in  irons, 
under  my  guards,  and  in  all  instances  treat  them  as  men 
guilty  of  a  capital  crime ;  on  their  arrival  below,  they  will 
be  tried  for  their  lives ;  and  if  it  be  proved  they  have  killed 
these  people  without  provocation,  in  all  probability  they 
will  be  put  to  death.  If,  on  the  contrary  it  is  proved  that 
the  whites  were  the  aggressors,  and  it  was  only  self-defence, 
it  will  be  deemed  justifiable,  and  they  will  be  sent  back  to 
their  nation. 

"Grig.  No.  12,  though  only  entitled,  "A  speech  delivered  to  the  Puants,  at 
the  Prairie  des  Cheins  the  20th  day  of  April,  1806,"  included,  besides  the 
speech  covered  by  this  heading,  various  other  matters  which  came  up  April  21st, 
in  another  council  with  the  same  Winnebj^oes,  and  furthermore  gave  a  report 
of  a  conference  with  the  Sioux,  etc.  Accordingly,  I  separate  Orig.  No.  12  into 
two  articles,  making  Pike's  speech  Art.  15,  and  supplying  a  new  head  for  Art. 
16,  to  cover  the  rest  of  the  proceedings  at  Prairie  du  Chien. 


ji-»:Vi 


266     FURTHER  CONFERENCES  AT  PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN. 


It  becomes  you  to  consider  well  whether  in  case  of  a 
refusal  you  are  sufficiently  powerful  to  protect  these  men 
against  the  power  of  the  United  States,  which  have  always, 
since  the  treaty  of  1795,  treated  all  the  savages  as  their 
children ;  but  if  they  are  obliged  to  march  troops  to  punish 
the  many  murders  committed  on  their  citizens,  then  the 
innocent  will  suffer  with  the  guilty. 

My  demand  will  be  reported  in  candor  and  truth  below; 
when  the  general  will  take  such  steps  as  he  may  deem 
proper.  But  I  hope,  for  the  sake  of  your  innocent  women 
and  children,  you  will  do  us  and  yourselves  justice.  I  was 
directed  to  invite  a  few  chiefs  down  with  me  to  St.  Louis. 
Many  of  different  bands  are  about  to  descend  with  me.  I 
now  give  an  invitation  to  two  or  three  of  your  principal 
men  to  descend  with  me.  Whatever  are  your  deter  lina- 
tions,  I  pledge  the  faith  of  a  soldier  for  a  safe  conduct  back 
to  your  nation.  At  present,  I  am  not  instructed  to  act  by 
force  to  procure  those  men,  therefore  you  will  consider 
yourselves  as  acting  without  restraint,  and  under  free  delib- 
erations. 

They  replied  that  they  thanked  me  for  the  generous  and 
candid  manner  in  which  I  had  explained  myself,  and  that 
they  would  give  me  an  answer  to-morrow. 


Art.  16.    Further  Conferences  with  Indians  at  Prairie  du 
Chien,  Apr.  21st,  1806.    {Part  of  Orig.  No.  12,  pp.  2y-2g.) 

The  Puants  met  me  in  council,  agreeably  to  promise. 
Karamone,  their  chief,  addressed  me,  and  said  they  had 
come  to  reply  to  my  demand  of  yesterday.  He  requested 
that  I,  with  the  traders,  would  listen.  A  soldier  called 
Little  Thunder  then  arose  and  said :  "  The  chiefs  were  for 
giving  up  the  murderer  present ;  but  it  was  the  opinion  of 
the  soldiers  that  they  should  themselves  take  him  with  the 
others  to  their  father.  But  if  I  preferred  their  taking  one 
down  now,  they  would  do  it ;  if,  on  the  contrary,  I  expected 


[EN. 

ise  of  a 
esc  men 
z  always, 
as  their 
;o  punish 
then  the 

h  below; 
\ay  deem 
p.'c  women 
;e.     I  was 
St.  Louis, 
th  me.    I 
r  principal 
deter  Aina- 
nduct  back 

I  to  act  by 

II  consider 
free  delib- 

•nerous  and 
if,  and  that 


FURTHER  CONFERENCES  AT  PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN.      267 

all  three,  they  would  immediately  depart  in  pursuit  of  the 
others,  and  bring  them  all  together  to  their  father.  That  if 
he  did  not  bring  them  he  would  deliver  himself  up  to  the 
Americans."  I  replied :  *'  He  must  nut  attempt  to  deceive. 
That  I  had  before  told  him  that  I  was  not  authorized  to 
seize  their  men  by  force  of  arms,  but  that  I  wished  to  know 
explicitly  the  time  when  we  might  expect  them  at  St.  Louis, 
in  order  that  our  general  should  know  what  steps  to  take 
in  case  they  did  not  arrive.  That  the  consequence  of  a  non- 
compliance would  be  serious  to  themselves  and  their  chil- 
dren. Also  that  they  had  recently  hoisted  a  British  flag 
near  this  place  which,  '  f  I  been  here,  I  should  have  pre- 
vented. I  advised  th*.  i  to  bring  their  British  flags  and 
medals  down  to  St.  Louis,  to  deliver  them  up,  and  receive 
others  in  exchange,"  Their  reply  was :  "  In  ten  days  to  the 
Prairie,  and  thence  to  St.  Louis  in  ten  days  more." 

Held  a  council  with  the  Sioux,  i.i  which  the  chiefs  of  the 
Yanctongs,  Sussitongs,  Sioux  of  the  head  of  the  De  Moyen, 
and  part  of  the  Gens  Du  Lac  were  present.  Wabasha  first 
spoke,  in  answer  to  my  speech,  wherein  I  had  recapitulated 
the  conduct  of  the  Sauteurs,  their  desire  and  willingness  for 
peace,  their  arrangements  for  next  summer,  the  pipes  they 
had  sent,  etc.  Also,  the  wish  of  the  general  for  some  of 
the  chiefs  to  descend  below.  Recommended  the  situation 
and  good  intentions  of  the  young  chiefs  at  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Peters,  to  the  others;  and  that  they  should  give 
them  assistance  to  keep  the  bad  men  in  awe. 

They  all  acquiesced  in  the  peace  with  the  Sauteurs,  but 
said  generally  they  doubted  their  bad  faith,  as  they  had 
experienced  it  many  a  time.  Nez  Corbeau  s^id  he  had  been 
accused  of  being  hired  to  kill  Mr.  Dixon  [Dickson],  but  he 
here  solemnly  denied  ever  having  been  instigated  to  any 
such  action. 

Tonnere  Rouge  then  arose  and  said :  Jealousy  was  in  a 
great  measure  the  principal  cause  of  his  descending.  That 
if  any  trader  ever  had  cause  to  complain  of  him,  now  let 
him  do  it  publicly.    That  last  year  an  officer  went  up  the 


lillWlS^i: 


r  Ik;. 


m 


!f3™il 


268'    FURTHER  CONFERENCES  AT  PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN. 


Missouri,  gave  flags  and  medals,  made  chiefs,  and  played 
the  devil  and  all.  That  this  year  liquor  was  restricted  [for- 
bidden] to  the  Indians  on  the  Louisiana  side,  and  permitted 
on  this.  He  wished  to  know  the  reason  of  those  arrange- 
ments. 

I  replied  that  the  officer  who  ascended  the  Missouri  was 
authorized  by  their  father ;  and  that  to  make  chiefs  of  them, 
etc.,  was  what  I  now  invited  them  down  for.  As  to  liquor, 
it  was  too  long  an  explanation  to  give  them  here,  but  it 
would  be  explained  to  them  below ;  and  that  in  a  very  short 
time  liquor  would  be  restricted  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

The  Puants  in  the  evening  came  to  the  house,  and  Macra- 
ragah,  alias  Merchant,  spoke :  That  last  spring  he  had 
embarked  to  go  down  to  St.  Louis;  but  at  De  Buques 
[Dubuque's]  the  Reynards  gave  back.  That  when  he  saw 
me  last  autumn  he  gave  me  his  hand  without  shame ;  but 
since  it  had  pleased  the  father  of  life  to  cover  them  with 
shame,  they  now  felt  themselves  miserable.  They  implored 
me  to  present  their  flags  and  medals  to  the  general,  as  a 
proof  of  their  good  intentions ;  and  when  I  arrived  at  St. 
Louis,  to  assure  the  general  they  were  not  far  behind.  The 
chiefs  and  the  soldiers  would  follow  with  the  murderers ; 
but  begged  I  would  make  their  road  clear,  etc.  Delivered 
his  pipe  and  flag. 

Karamone  then  spoke,  with  apparent  difficulty ;  assured 
me  of  the  shame,  disgrace,  and  distress  of  their  nation,  and 
that  he  would  fulfill  what  the  others  had  said  ;  said  that  he 
sent  by  me  the  medal  of  his  father,  which  he  considered 
himself  no  longer  worthy  to  wear — putting  it  around  my 
neck,  trembling — and  begged  me  to  intercede  with  the 
general  in  their  favor,  etc. 

I  assured  him  that  the  American  was  a  generous  nation, 
not  confounding  the  innocent  with  the  guilty ;  that  when 
they  had  delivered  up  the  three  or  four  dogs  who  had 
covered  theni  with  blood,  we  would  again  look  on  them  as 
our  children  ;  advised  them  to  take  courage  that,  if  they 
did  well,  they  should  be  treated  well ;  said  that  I  would  tell 


EN. 


LETTERS,  PIKE  TO  SEVERAL  PERSONS. 


269 


played 
ted  [for- 
^rmitted 
arrange- 

jouri  was 
of  them, 
to  liquor, 
re,  but  it 
'ery  short 
,e  river, 
nd  Macra- 
y   he  had 
le  Buques 
len  he  saw 
lame ;  but 
them  with 
yr  implored 
ineral,  as  a 
ived  at  St. 
lind.    The 
murderers ; 
Delivered 

y;  assured 

nation,  and 

id  that  he 

considered 

round  my 

with  the 

ous  nation, 
that  when 
5  who  had 
on  them  as 
lat,  if  they 


the  general  everything  relati/e  to  the  aflair;  also,  their 
repentance,  and  determination  to  deliver  themselves  and 
the  murderers,  and  that  I  would  explain  about  their  flags 
and  medals. 


Art.  ly.  Letter,  Pike  to  Campbell  and  Fisher.    {Orig.No.  ij, 

pp.  29,30.) 

{Notice  to  Messrs.  Campbell  and  Fisher,  for  taking  depositions 
against  the  murderers  of  the  Puant  nation.) 

Prairie  des  Chiens,  Apr.  20th,  1806, 
Gentlemen  : 

Having  demanded  of  the  Puants  the  authors  of  the  late 
atrocious  murders,  and  understanding  that  it  is  their  inten- 
tion to  deliver  them  to  me,  I  have  to  request  of  you,  as 
magistrates  of  this  territory,  that  you  will  have  all  the 
depositions  of  those  facts  taken  which  it  is  in  your  power 
to  procure ;  and  if  at  any  future  period,  previous  to  the  final 
decisions  of  their  fate,  further  proofs  can  be  obtained,  that 
you  will  have  them  properly  authenticated  and  forwarded 
to  his  Excellency,  General  Wilkinson. 
I  am,  Gentlemen, 
With  respect. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  PiKE,  Lt. 


Art.  18.  Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.    {Orig.  No.  14, 
PP-3o,3i.) 

Fort  St.  Louis,  May  26th,  1806. 
Dear  Sir  : 

I  have  hitherto  detained  the  medals  and  flags,  intending 
to  present  them  to  you  at  the  final  conclusion  of  my 
vouchers  on  the  subject  of  my  correspondence  with  the 
savages.  But  in  order  that  the  general  might  know  of 
whom  I  had  obtained  medals  and  flags,  I  gave  him  a  mem- 
orandum when  I  handed  in  my  vouchers  on  the  subject  of 


!l!l 


270 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO  WILKINSON. 


the  N.  W.  Company.  Now  I  have  thought  proper  to  send 
them  by  the  bearer,  marked  with  the  names  of  the  chiefs 
from  whom  I  obtained  them. 

I  also  send  you  a  pipe  and  beaver  robe  of  Tonnere  Rouge, 
as  they  are  the  handsomest  of  any  which  I  received  on  the 
whole  route.  I  have  several  other  pipes,  two  sacks,  and  one 
robe ;  but  as  they  bore  no  particular  message,  I  conceived 
the  general  would  look  on  it  as  a  matter  of  no  consequence  ; 
indeed,  none  except  the  Sauteurs'  [presents]  were  accom- 
panied by  a  talk,  but  just  served  as  an  emblem  of  the  good 
will  of  the  moment.  I  likewise  send  the  skins  of  the  lynx 
and  brelaw  [badger],  as  the  general  may  have  an  opportunity 
to  forward  them. 

Some  gentlemen  have  promised  me  a  mate  for  my  dog; 
if  I  obtain  him,  the  pair,  or  the  single  one  with  the  sleigh, 
is  at  the  general's  service,  to  be  transmitted  to  the  States  as 
we  determined  on  doing.    I  mentioned  in  my  memorandums 
the  engagements  I  was  under  relative  to  the  flags  or  medals, 
and   should   any  early  communications  be   made  to  that 
country,  I  hope  the  subject  may  not  be  forgotten.     I  have 
labeled  each  article  with  the  name  of  those  from  whom 
I  obtained  them ;  also  the  names  of  the  different  animals. 
I  am,  sir, 
With  esteem  and  high  consideration. 
Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]    Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 
General  James  Wilkinson, 


My  faith  was  pledged  to  the  savage  chiefs  for  the  replac- 
ing of  the  medals  and  flags  of  the  British  government  which 
they  surrendered  me,  by  others  of  the  same  magnitude  of 
the  United  States ;  but  owing  to  the  change  of  agents,  and 
a  variety  of  circumstances,  it  was  never  fulfilled.  This  has 
left  a  number  of  the  Sioux  and  Sauteur  chiefs  without  their 
distinguishing  marks  of  dignity,  and  has  induced  them  to 
look  on  my  conduct  toward  them  as  a  premeditated  fraud. 
This  would  render  my  life  in  danger  should  I  ever  return 


LETTER,  PIKE  TO  WILKINSON. 


271 


amongst  them,  and  the  situation  of  any  other  officer  who 
should  presume  to  make  a  similar  demand  extremely  deli- 
cate ;  besides,  it  has  compromitted  with  those  savage  war- 
riors the  faith  of  our  government,  which,  to  enable  any 
government  ever  to  do  good,  should  be  held  inviolate." 


Art.  ig.    Letter"  Pike  to    Wilkinson.    {Orig.  No.  15, 

PP'  3I-33-) 

Bellefontaine,  July  2d,  1806. 
Dear  Sir  : 

I  have  at  length  finished  all  my  reports,  observations,  and 
journals,  which  arose  from  my  late  voyage  to  the  source  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  hope  they  may  prove  interesting,  from 
the  information  on  different  subjects  which  they  contain. 

I  perceive  that  I  differ  materially  from  Captain  Lewis  "  in 
my  account  of  the  numbers,  manners,  and  morals  of  the 

'*  The  above  paragraph  formed  no  part  of  the  letter  to  which  it  is  appended, 
being  an  explanatory  note  which  Pike  added  wlien  he  was  about  to  print  the 
letter  in  his  book.  One  reason  why  the  Indians  did  not  get  the  medals  they  had 
been  led  to  expect  is  evident  in  the  following  extract  of  a  letter  before  me  from. 
General  Wilkinson  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  dated  St.  Louis,  Dec.  3d,  1805  : 
"  The  Indians  in  all  directions  Clamour  for  Medals,  &  it  is  found  policy  to  pre- 
sent them,  but  we  have  not  one  in  the  Country,  or  among  the  factory  Goods — If 
you  send  any  out  let  them  be  addressed  to  the  Superintendant  &  not  the  Agent, 
for  many  &  obvious  reasons — the  last  aims  at  too  much  importance  &  the  former 
may  need  some." 

"This  is  the  last  letter  we  have  from  Pike  on  the  subject  of  the  Mississippi 
voyage.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  letter  of  transmittal  of  his  official  report  to  the  com- 
manding general,  and  thus  a  sort  of  preface  or  introduction  to  the  whole  subject. 
In  two  weeks  from  the  date  of  this  communication  Pike  had  started  up  the 
Missouri  on  his  second  expedition,  and  of  course  did  nothing  further  with  his 
Mississippi  matters  until  he  had  returned  from  Mexico,  the  following  year. 
Article  19  therefore  completes  the  batch  of  miscellaneous  documents,  chiefly 
letters,  which  I  have  grouped  in  this  chapter  of  "Correspondence  and  Confer- 
ences." But  we  have  still  to  deal  with  four  formal  articles  relating  to  the 
Mississippian  voyage  ;  these  I  make  the  subjects  of  the  following  chapters. 

'*  The  reference  is  here  to  Captain  Meriwether  Lewis'  Statistical  View  of  the 
Indian  Nations,  etc.,  which  formed  the  second  one  of  five  papers  accompanying 
President  Jefferson's  message  to  Congress,  Feb.  i6th,  1806  :  see  L.  and  C,  ed. 
1893,  p.  cviii. 


1,  'i' 
I 


;aii 


2/2 


LETTER,  PIKE  TO  WILKINSON. 


Sioux.  But  our  reception  by  that  nation  at  the  first  inter- 
view  being  so  different,  it  no  doubt  left  an  impression  on 
our  minds,  which  may  have,  unknown  to  ourselves,  given 
a  cast  to  our  observations.  I  will  not  only  vouch  for  the 
authenticity  of  my  account  as  to  numbers,  arms,  etc.,  from 
my  own  notes,  but  from  having  had  them  revised  and  cor- 
rected by  a  gentleman"  of  liberal  education,  who  has  resided 
1 8  years  in  that  nation,  speaks  their  language,  and  for  some 
years  past  has  been  collecting  materials  for  their  natural  and 
philosophical  history. 

I  have  not  attempted  to  give  an  account  of  nations  of 
Indians  whom  I  did  not  visit,  except  the  Assinniboins,  whom, 
from  their  intimate  connection  with  the  Sioux,  in  a  lineal 
point  of  view,  it  would  have  been  improper  to  leave  out  of 
the  catalogue. 

The  correctness  of  the  geographical  parts  of  the  voyage 
I  will  vouch  for,  as  I  spared  neither  time,  fatigue,  nor 
danger,  to  see  for  myself  every  part  connected  with  my 
immediate  route. 

As  the  general  already  knows,  at  the  time  I  left  St.  Louis 
there  were  no  instruments  proper  for  celestial  observations, 
excepting  those  which  he  furnished  me,  which  were  inade- 
quate to  taking  the  longitude ;  neither  had  I  the  proper 
tables  or  authors  to  accomplish  that  object,  though  it  can  no 
doubt  be  ascertained  by  various  charts  at  different  points  of 
my  route.  Nor  had  I  proper  time-pieces  or  instruments  for 
meteorological  observations.  Those  made  were  from  an 
imperfect  instrument  which  I  purchased  in  the  town  of  St. 
Louis. 

I  do  not  possess  the  qualifications  of  the  naturalist,  and 
even  had  they  been  mine,  it  would  have  been  impossible 
to  gratify  them  to  any  great  extent,  as  we  passed  with 
rapidity  over  the  country  we  surveyed,  which  was  covered 
with  snow  six  months  out  of  the  nine  I  was  absent.    And 

'•  Mr.  George  Anderson,  the  same  who  furnished  Pike  with  most  of  the  data 
he  obtained  concerning  the  fur-trade.  See  next  chapter,  on  the  commerce  of 
the  Mississippi. 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO  WILKINSON. 


273 


indeed,  my  thoughts  were  too  much  engrossed  in  making 
provision  for  the  exigencies  of  the  morrow  to  attempt  a 
science  which  requires  time,  and  a  placidity  of  mind  which 
seldom  fell  to  my  lot. 

The  journal  in  itself  will  have  little  to  strike  the  imag- 
ination, being  but  a  dull  detail  of  our  daily  march,  and 
containing  many  notes  which  should  have  come  into  the 
geographical  part;  others  of  observations  on  the  savage 
character,  and  many  that  were  never  intended  to  be  included 
in  my  official  report. 

The  daily  occurrences  written  at  night,  frequently  by  fire- 
light, when  extremely  fatigued,  and  the  cold  so  severe  as  to 
freeze  the  ink  in  my  pen,  of  course  have  little  claim  to  ele- 
gance of  expression  or  style ;  but  they  have  truth  to  recom- 
mend them,  which,  if  always  attended  to,  would  strip  the 
pages  of  many  of  our  journalists  of  their  most  interesting 
occurrences. 

The  general  will  please  to  recollect  also,  that  I  had 
scarcely  returned  to  St.  Louis  before  the  [Arkansaw]  voyage 
now  in  contemplation  was  proposed  to  me ;  and  that,  after 
some  consideration  my  duty,  and  inclination  in  some  re- 
spects, induced  me  to  undertake  it.  The  preparations  for 
my  new  voyage  prevented  the  possibility  of  my  paying  that 
attention  to  the  correction  of  my  errors  that  I  should  other- 
wise have  done.  This,  with  the  foregoing  reasons,  will,  I 
hope,  be  deemed  a  sufficient  apology  for  the  numerous 
errors,  tautologies,  and  egotisms  which  will  appear. 
I  am,  dear  General, 

With  great  respect. 

Your  obedient  .servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE, 

Lt.  1st  Regt.  Infty. 

General  James  Wilkinson. 


liii 


M 


J 


.iA- 


CHAPTER  VI. 


;  '  '\ 


COMMERCE   OF   THE   MISSISSIPPI.' 

Observations  on  the  trade,  views,  and  policy  of  the  North 
West  Company,  and  the  national  objects  connected  zvith 
their  commerce,  as  it  interests  the  Government  of  the 
United  States? 

'^'H  E  fur-trade  in  Canada  has  always  been  considered  an 
^^  object  of  the  first  importance  to  that  colony,  and  has 
been  cherished  by  the  respective  governors  of  that  province 
by  every  regulation  in  their  power,  under  both  the  French 
and  English  administrations.  The  great  and  almost  unlim- 
ited influence  the  traders  of  that  country  acquired  over  the 
savages  was  severely  felt,  and  will  long  be  remembered  by 
the  citizens  on  our  frontiers.     Every  attention  was  paid  by 

•  This  article,  for  which  I  introduce  a  new  chapter,  with  a  new  major  head, 
formed  Doc.  No.  17  of  the  orig.  ed.,  pp.  35-40  and  a  folder,  of  the  Aijpendix 
to  Pt.  I.  The  original  title  of  the  piece  is  preserved  as  a  minor  head  of  the 
chapter,  and  this  will  also  serve  to  effect  some  sort  of  typographical  uniformity 
with  the  following  five  pieces,  A,  B,  C,  D,  E,  which  are  integral  parts  of  the 
article,  yet  were  in  the  orig.  ed.  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  article  under 
a  different  heading,  in  larger  type  than  the  main  heading  itself  ;  moreover,  the 
piece  marked  C,  whose  proper  position  was  of  course  between  B  and  D,  was 
a  separate  folding  blanket-sheet  bound  to  face  p.  40,  thus  coming  after  E .  The 
construction  of  this  table  is  such  that  it  can  be  printed  on  two  pages  of  the 
present  edition,  and  be  put  between  D  and  E. 

Pike's  remarks  on  the  fur-trade  are  sound  and  very  much  to  the  point ; 
together  with  his  descriptions  of  the  trading-houses,  etc.,  they  represent  prob- 
ably the  best  account  extant  of  things  as  they  were  in  1805.  His  present  Obser- 
vations, etc.,  as  well  as  his  correspondence  with  Hugh  M'Gillis  (Arts.  8  and  9 
of  the  foregoing  chapter,  pp.  247-254),  were  extracted  for  use  in  the  Statutes, 
Documents,  and  Papers  bearing  on  the  Discussion  respecting  the  Northern  and 
Western  Boundaries  of  the  Province  of  Ontario,  pub.  Toronto,  Hunter,  Rose 
and  Co.,  1877,  Bvo,  pp.  318-323. 

'  The  Indian  trade  is  not  among  the  least  of  the  vexed  questions  which  the 
United  States  has  sought  to  answer  in  the  natural  and  necessary  process  of 

»74 


COMMERCE  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


275 


the  cabinet  of  St.  James,  in  our  treaty  with  Great  Britain,  to 
secure  to  their  Canadian  subjects  the  privilege  of  the  Indian 
trade  within  our  territories,  and  with  what  judgment  they 
have  improved  the  advantages  obtained  by  the  mother 
country,  time  will  soon  unfold. 

In   the  year  1766,  the  trade  was   first   extended   from 

causing  the  Indians  to  make  their  exeunt  from  the  world's  staga.  The  prices 
at  which  goods  were  sold  by  private  individuals,  whether  French,  English,  or 
American,  seem  exorbitant,  extortionate — in  a  word,  monstrous  !  But  trade  is 
a  thing  that  seems  to  regulate  itself,  without  regard  to  theory  or  sentiment ;  the 
Indian  trade  certainly  did.  I  once  asked  the  lion-tamer  of  a  popular  circus 
what  was  the  secret  of  his  profession,  expecting  some  discerning  remarks  from 
him  on  the  power  of  the  human  eye  over  wild  beasts,  and  so  forth  ;  hut  all  he 
told  me  was,  "You  just  have  to  know  your  lion."  In  war,  trade,  or  religion, 
you  just  have  to  know  your  Indian,  as  our  soldiers,  traders,  and  priests  found 
out  for  their  respective  selves.  General  Whiting  has  some  extremely  moderate 
tJ  judicious  words  on  the  subject,  in  his  Life  of  Pike,  p.  231  seq.^  which  I 
will  reproduce  in  substance,  as  it  was  a  part  of  Pike's  business  on  this  voyage 
to  keep  an  eye  on  the  Indian  traders  and  trade.  The  various  expenses  attend- 
ing the  transport  of  goods  swelled  the  original  value  to  such  an  extraordinary 
degree  that  a  knife  cost  an  Indian  the  ordinary  price  of  a  handsome  sword, 
when  he  stuck  it  in  his  belt  ;  and  by  the  time  his  squaw  had  put  a  yard  and 
a  half  of  blue  strouds  around  her  waist,  her  lord  was  in  debt  for  an  amount  that 
would  have  bought  a  city  belle  a  ball  dress.  Such  high  prices  would  have  been 
ruinous  to  the  Indian  had  not  their  trade  customs  furnished  a  corrective.  Few 
Indians  ever  hunted  beforehand  ;  they  seldom  got  their  stock  of  skins  to  offer 
for  sale  at  a  fair  or  any  price,  else  the  traffic  would  have  been  on  more  nearly 
equal  terms.  They  must  have  their  outfit  for  the  chase  first,  and  then  they 
must  feel  the  pangs  of  hunger  before  they  would  start  on  a  hunt.  The  trader 
was  obliged  to  overcome  their  indolence  by  offering  certain  inducements,  besides 
furnishing  the  necessary  means.  This  was  an  invention  of  necessity  on  which 
the  whole  system  of  credits  was  based,  and  on  which  such  a  structure  of 
extortion  and  other  evils  was  reared.  The  trader  had  to  let  his  goods  go  on 
credit  into  lazy,  improvident,  always  uncertain  and  often  dishonest  or  criminal 
hands,  with  no  security  for  any  adequate  return  for  his  outlay  except  in  a  scale 
of  ordinary  prices  that  would  cover  him  in  case  of  extraordinary  losses.  He 
took  great  risks  and  put  up  his  premium  accordingly.  He  expected  to  realize 
200  to  250  per  cent,  on  the  price  of  goods  for  which  he  got  anything,  to  cover 
the  loss  on  what  he  got  nothing  for.  Thus  the  Indians  were  a  prey  to  cupidity 
and  extortion  ;  they  were  swindled,  as  it  seems  to  us.  Yet  they  had  a  way  of 
getting  even  with  the  most  unprincipled  trader,  sometimes  of  beating  him  at  his 
own  game.  At  the  end  of  the  hunt  the  Indian  brought  in  his  peltries.  "  If 
these  paid  his  debt,"  says  Whiting,  "  which  was  not  often  the  case,  the  account 
was  squared  ;  if  an  arrearage  remained,  as  was  generally  the  case,  no  reasoning 


ikm 


3;6 


COMMERCE  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


Michilimackinac,  to  the  northwest,  by  a  few  desperate 
adventurers,  whose  mode  of  life  on  the  voyage,  and  short 
residence  in  civilized  society,  obtained  for  them  the  appella- 
tion of  Courcurs  des  Bois.  From  those  trifling  beginnings 
arose  the  present  North  West  Company,  who,  notwith- 
standing the  repeated  attacks  made  on  their  trade,  have 
withstood  every  shock,  and  are  now,  by  the  coalition  of  the 

nor  threats  could  convince  the  red  man  that  the  responsibility  held  over  to 
another  season,  and  that  his  obligations  survived  the  hunt.  When  that  hunt 
terminated,  and  the  furs  obtained  by  it  had  been  fairly  rendered,  he  considered 
the  account  as  canceled.  Whether  it  was  balanced  or  not  was  a  question  he 
did  not  undertake  to  answer. 

"  One  of  the  objects  Lieutenant  Pike  appears  to  have  been  instructed  to 
keep  in  view  while  on  his  trip,  was  the  investigation  of  these  evils  of  the 
Indian  trade,  and  to  ascertain  where  proper  trading  establishments  could  be 
fixed,  which  were  intended  to  correct  them.  These  establishments  were  of 
course  to  be  made  under  the  patronage  of  the  Government.  They  were  after- 
ward actually  made  under  the  'factor'  system.  In  a  benevolent  spirit,  the 
United  States  enacted  that  certain  stores  should  be  conveniently  placed  within 
the  Indian  territory,  where  factors,  having  a  salary  and  no  interest  in  the  trade, 
were  to  keep  on  hand  a  constant  supply  of  articles  suitable  for  the  Indians, 
which  were  to  be  exchanged  with  them  for  peltries,  the  articles  bearing  only 
a  fair  cost,  all  expenses  included,  and  the  peltries  being  received  at  a  fair  rate. 
Government  thus,  out  of  kindness  to  the  Indians,  became  a  trader,  and  a  com- 
petitor with  individual  traders. 

"  The  theory  was  as  promising  as  it  was  benevolent  ;  but,  like  many  theories, 
it  did  not  fulfill  expectation  when  put  into  practice.  It  is  true  that  the  Indian 
under  it  was  sure  of  a  just  equivalent  for  such  furs  and  peltries  as  he  brought 
in.  This  assurance  was  spread  abroad  by  agents,  and  was  generally  known  and 
understood.  But  an  important  consideration  had  been  omitted  in  the  calcula- 
tions that  suggested  the  arrangement.  Most  of  the  Indians  are  improvident, 
and  leave  the  morrow  to  take  care  of  itself.  The  future  causes  them  no 
anxiety.  It  is  the  present  moment,  with  its  gratifications,  or  its  wants,  that 
occupies,  almost  exclusively,  their  minds — the  former  exhausted  with  blind 
avidity,  the  latter  borne  with  passive  endurance.  They  seldom  lay  up  the 
means  of  providing  themselves  with  the  small  equipments  of  a  hunting  expedi- 
tion. While  they  used  the  bow  and  arrow,  it  was  different.  Then  a  few  hours' 
exertion  of  their  own  hands  provided  all  that  was  necessary.  But  the  moment 
a  gun  was  put  into  their  hands,  their  dependence  upon  the  trader  was  secured. 
They  must  have  ammunition,  or  their  guns  were  more  useless  than  the  bow  and 
arrow  ;  and  they  could  obtain  this  only  on  credit. 

"  Hence  the  United  States  factor,  who  had  a  knife  at  a  few  shillings,  and 
a  Stroud  at  not  many  more,  and  powder  and  ball  at  a  fair  rate,  but  who  could 
sell  for  cash  only,  or  its  equivalent,  would  find  his  shelves  nearly  as  full  at  the 


COMMERCE  OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 


277 


late  X.  Y,  Company,  established  on  so  firm  a  basis  as  to 
bid  defiance  to  every  opposition  which  can  be  made  by 
private  individuals. 

They,  by  a  late  purchase  of  the  king's  posts  in  Canada, 
extend  their  line  of  trade  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  up  that  river  on  both  sides  to  the  Lakes ; 
thence  to  the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  at  which  place  the 


end  of  the  season  as  at  the  beginning  ;  while  the  individual  trader,  who  sold  on 
credit,  though  he  might  sell  at  an  enormous  profit,  at  a  thousand  per  cent,  above 
his  government  competitor,  would  empty  his  shelves  in  a  few  weeks.  Besides, 
no  system  can  work  well  unless  it  is  managed  well.  The  factor  was  expected, 
by  the  law,  to  be  honest  and  disinterested  ;  and  he  was  often  so.  Still,  he  was 
in  a  remote  part  of  the  country,  and  beset  by  temptations,  and  dealt  with 
a  people  that  were  supposed  to  be  unable  to  tell  tales  that  could  be  understood. 
The  system  was  abandoned  after  a  vain  experiment  of  a  few  years." 

About  the  time  that  Pike  was  on  this  expedition,  Lewis  and  Clark  also  had 
their  attention  turned  to  the  same  business.  One  of  the  results  of  their  obser- 
vations was  Lewis'  Essay  on  an  Indian  Policy,  which  had  special  regard  to  the 
commercial  aspects  of  the  case,  and  will  never  go  entirely  out  of  date  till  the 
last  Indian  has  bought  his  last  bullet,  or  had  it  fired  into  him.  The  reader  is 
referred  to  this  article,  occupying  pp.  1215-43  of  the  1893  ed.  of  L.  and  C. 

Trade  is  one  of  those  things  which,  like  a  hen  hunting  for  a  nest,  does  best 
when  let  alone.  Any  hen  will  lay  more  eggs  and  hatch  more  chicks  in  a  nest 
of  her  own  selection  than  in  the  most  artful  contrivances  of  the  coop  to  pro- 
vide for  her  comfort  and  convenience.  All  interference  with  a  man's  tendency 
to  take  advantage  of  his  neighbor  is  unwise,  and  injurious  to  both  parties.  It 
tends  to  sharpen  the  wits  of  the  one  and  make  him  more  of  a  knave  than  he 
wiis  before  ;  while  it  blunts  the  wits  of  the  other  with  a  specious  sense  of  being 
protected,  and  thus  makes  him  a  bigger  fool  than  ever.  Trade  being  what  it  is, 
in  consequence  of  the  great  quantity  of  human  nature  there  is  in  mankind,  can 
never  be  legislated  into  anything  else  than  an  attempt  to  enrich  one's  self  at  an- 
other's expense  by  buying  cheap  and  selling  dear.  Free  trade  in  all  the  markets 
of  the  world  is  the  only  natural  postulate  ;  all  tariff  regulations  and  restrictions 
are  simply  necessary  concessions  to  the  inherent  weakness  of  artificial  systems 
of  trade.  The  evils  of  damming  individual  channels  of  trade — or  rather,  of 
attempting  to  dam  them  with  desultory  yet  reiterated  interference — reach 
a  climax  of  absurdity  and  injury  in  v/hat  is  known  as  tariff-tinkering.  Very 
likely  they  ought  to  be  dammed—  ill  avenues  of  selfishness  ought  to  be  ;  but 
they  never  will  be  in  this  world.  As  to  the  practical  worldly  wisdom  displayed 
ill  specific  measures  to  promote  commercial  activity  by  legislative  interference, 
it  is  probable  that  any  jockey  in  the  land,  with  a  hidebound  horse  for  sale  and 
some  arsenic  in  his  pocket,  could  give  our  legislators  pointers  on  those  tricks 
which  are  said  to  be  in  all  trades  but  ours. 


i 


I 


2;8 


A.  MACKENZIE — J.  MACKAY— D.  THOMPSON. 


North  West  Company  have  their  headquarters ;  thence  to 
the  source  of  Red  river  and  all  its  tributary  streams  through 
the  country  to  the  Missouri ;  through  the  waters  of  Lake 
Winipie  to  the  Saskashawin ;  on  that  river  to  its  source ; 
up  Elk  river  to  the  Lake  of  the  Hills ;  up  Peace  river  to 
the  Rocky  mountains  ;  from  the  Lake  of  the  Hills  [Lac  des 
Buttes,  old  French  name  of  Lake  Athapasca]  up  Slave  river 
to  Slave  Lake.  This  year  they  have  dispatched  a  Mr.  [(not 
Sir)  Alexander]  Mackenzie  on  a  voyage  of  trade  and  discov- 
ery down  Mackenzie's  river  to  the  north  sea;  and  also  a  Mr. 
M'Coy,'  to  cross  the  Rocky  mountains  and  proceed  to  the 
western  ocean  with  the  same  objects  in  view . 

They  have  had  a  gentleman  by  the  name  of  [David] 
Thompson*  making  a  geographical  survey  of  the  northwest 


•  "  A  Mr.  M'Coy  "  is  not  easily  identified.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the 
name  is  McKay  or  Mackay,  and  that  the  person  meant  is  Alexander  Mackay,  who 
had  been  with  Sir  A.  Mackenzie,  left  the  N.  W.  Co.  in  1810,  for  Astor's  Ameri- 
can Fur  Co.,  and  was  blown  up  with  the  ship  Tonquin  in  1811  ;  but  I  am  far 
from  feeling  sure  of  this. 

*  David  Thompson  was  among  the  Mandans  from  Dec.  29th,  1797,  to  Jan. 
loth,  1798.  He  left  McDonald's  house,  which  was  near  the  mouth  of 
Mouse  r.,  on  Nov.  28th,  en  route  to  the  Missouri.  On  Dec.  7th  he  reached  tht, 
old  Ash  house  on  Mouse  r.,  "  settled  two  years  ago  and  abandoned  the  follow. 
ing  spring."  Being  unable  to  procure  a  guide  here,  he  took  the  lead  himself 
and  struck  for  Turtle  mountain,  west  of  which  he  again  crossed  Mouse  r.,  and 
followed  this  stream  up  to  the  bight  of  the  great  loop  it  makes  in  North 
Dakota,  at  a  point  37  m.  from  the  Missouri.  Here  leaving  the  river  and  com- 
ing south  over  the  plains,  he  struck  the  Missouri  Dec.  29th,  at  a  point  6  m. 
above  the  uppermost  Mandan  village.  These  villages  are  said  to  have  been  five 
in  number,  and  to  have  contained  in  all  318  houses  and  seven  tents,  inhabited  by 
Mandan  and  Willow  Indians  in  about  equal  numbers.  (The  census  of  the 
Willow  Indians  is  given  as  from  2,200  to  2,500,  in  another  place  in  Thompson's 
MS.,  where  he  calls  them  Fall  Indians.)  While  among  the  Mandans  Thompson 
prepared  a  vocabulary  of  about  375  words  of  their  language.  He  left  the 
villages  Jan.  loth,  1798  ;  but  being  delayed  by  storms,  it  was  Jan.  24th  before 
he  reached  Mouse  r.,  and  Feb.  3d  when  he  regained  McDonald's  house. 
I  take  these  items  from  J.  B.  Tyrrell's  paper  on  the  journeys  of  David 
Thompson,  read  before  the  Canadian  Institute  Mar.  3d,  1888,  and  pub.  in 
advance  of  the  Proceedings,  Toronto,  1888,  8vo,  pp.  7,  8  :  see  also  note  ',  167. 
Another  account  of  Thompson's  travels  occupies  pp.  94-103  of  Statutes,  etc., 
N.  and  W.  Bound.  Ontario,  pub.  Toronto,  8vo,  1877. 


THOMPSON  ON  THE  U.  S.  NORTHERN  BOUNDARY.  279 


lience  to 
,  through    . 
of  Lake 
3  source ; 
:  river  to 
;  [Lac  des 
;iave  river 
Mr.  [(not 
nd  discov- 
also  a  Mr. 
;ed  to  the 

3f  [David] 
northwest 

think  that  the 
r  Mackay,  who 
Astor's  Ameri- 
;  but  I  am  far 

1797,  to  Jan. 

the  mouth   of 
he  reached  thfe 

led  the  follow. 

je  lead  himself 
Mouse  r.,  and 

akes  in  North 
river  and  com- 
a  point  6  m. 
have  been  five 
ts,  inhabited  by 
census  of  the 
in  Thompson's 
dans  Thompson 
He  left  the 
an.  24th  before 
Donald's  house, 
■neys  of  David 
,8,  and  pub.  in 
ilso  note »,  167- 
.f  Statutes,  etc., 


part  of  the  continent ;  who,  for  three  years,  with  an  aston- 
ishing spirit  of  enterprise  and  perseverance,  passed  over  all 
that  extensive  and  unknown  country.  His  establishment, 
although  not  splendid,  the  mode  of  traveling  not  admitting 
it,  was  such  as  to  admit  of  unlimited  expenses  in  everything 
necessary  to  facilitate  his  inquiries ;  and  he  is  now  engaged 
in  digesting  the  important  results  of  his  enterprise. 

I  find  from  the  observations  and  suggestions  of  Mr.  Thomp- 
son, when  at  the  [Julian]  source  of  the  Mississippi,  that  it 
was  his  opinion  the  line  of  limits  between  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain  must  run  such  a  course  from  the  head  of 
the  Lake  of  the  Woods  as  to  touch  the  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi ;  and  this  I  discovered  to  be  the  opinion  of  the  North 
West  Company,  who,  we  may  suppose  or  reasonably  con- 
clude, speak  the  language  held  forth  by  their  government. 
The  admission  of  this  pretension  will  throw  out  of  our 
territory  all  the  upper  part  of  Red  river,  and  nearly  two- 
fifths  of  the  territory  of  Louisiana.  Whereas,  if  the  line  be 
run  due  west  from  the  head  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  it 
will  cross  Red  river  nearly  at  the  entrance  of  Reed  river, 
and,  it  is  conjectured,  strike  the  western  ocean  at  Birch  Bay, 
in  Queen  Charlotte  Sound.  Those  differences  of  opinion,  it 
is  presumed,  might  be  easily  adjusted  between  the  two 
governments  at  the  present  day ;  but  it  is  believed  that 
delays,  by  unfolding  the  true  value  of  the  country,  may 
produce  diflficulties  which  do  not  at  present  exist. 

The  North  West  Company  have  made  establishments  at 
several  places  on  the  south  side  of  Lake  Superior,  and  on 
the  head  waters  of  the  Sauteaux  and  St.  Croix,  which  dis- 
charge into  the  Mississippi.  The  first  I  met  with  on  the 
voyage  up  was  at  Lower  Red  Cedar  Lake,  about  1 50  miles 
above  Isle  de  Corfeau  [Corbeau],  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  and  distant  therefrom  six  miles.  It  is  situated  on  the 
north  point  of  the  lake,  and  consists  of  log  buildings,  flanked 
by  picketed  bastions  on  two  of  its  angles.  The  next  estab- 
lishment I  met  with  was  situated  on  Sandy  Lake :  for  a 
description  of  which,  see  document  [herewith]  marked  A. 


WWi' 


m^ 


Zi  'Hit 


f;lt- 


liii 


28o 


STATISTICS  OF  THE  NORTHWEST  COMPANY. 


Midway  between  Sandy  Lake  and  Leech  Lake  is  a  smalt 
house  not  worthy  of  notice  [Grant's :  see  note  "  p.  144]. 
On  the  southwest  sidv,  of  the  latter  lake,  from  the  outlet  of 
the  Mississippi,  stand  the  headquarters  of  the  Fond  du  Lac 
department :  for  information  relative  to  which,  have  refer- 
ence to  document  marked  B.  Here  resides  the  director  of 
this  department..  In  document  C  is  a  recapitulation  of  the 
specific  articles  of  115  packs  of  peltry,  which  will  give  an 
idea  of  the  whole,  amounting  per  said  voucher  to  233  packs 
per  annum  in  the  Fond  du  Lac  department.  Document  D 
will  explain  the  relative  price  of  goods  in  that  district ;  but 
the  trading  prices  are  various,  according  to  situations  and 
circumstances.  Voucher  E  shows  the  number  of  men, 
women,  and  children  in  the  service  of  the  North  West 
Company  in  the  district  aforesaid,  with  their  pay  per  annum, 
etc.  This  department  brings  in  annually  40  canoes  ;  from 
which,  by  a  calculation  made  by  a  gentleman  [George 
Anderson]  of  veracity  and  information,  who  has  been  18 
years  in  the  Indian  trade  and  in  the  habit  of  importing 
goods  by  Michilimackinac,  it  appears  that  the  annual 
amount  of  duties  would  be  about  $13,000.  The  Lower 
Red  river,  which  I  conceive  to  be  within  our  territory,  would 
yield  about  half  that  sum,  $6,500,  and  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company's  servants,  who  import  by  the  way  of  Lake 
Winipie,  $6,500  more. 

Thus  is  the  United  States  defrauded  annually  of  about 
$26,000.  From  my  observations  and  information,  I  think  it 
will  be  an  easy  matter  to  prevent  t'  .e  smuggling  of  the  Fond 
du  Lac  department,  by  establishing  a  post  with  a  garrison 
of  100  men,  and  an  office  of  the  customs,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Louis,  where  all  goods  for  the  Fond  du  Lac  depart- 
ment must  enter.  This  is  at  present  the  distributing  point, 
where  the  company  have  an  establishment,  and  where  the 
goods,  on  being  received  from  Kamanitiquia,  are  embarked 
for  their  different  destinations.  That  point  also  commands 
the  communication  with  Lake  de  Sable,  Leech  Lake,  Red 
Lake,  etc.     I  am  also  of  opinion  that  the  goods  for  Red 


N.  W.  CO.  HOUSE  AT  SANDY  LAKE. 


281 


a  small 

p.  144]- 
jutlet  of 
I  du  Lac 
,ve  refcr- 
rector  of 
)n  of  the 
[  give  an 

233  pack* 
:ument  D 

trict;  but 

tions  and 

of  men, 
jrth  West 
)er  annum, 
loes;  from 
n  [George 
IS  been  18 

importing 
the  annual 
rhe  Lower 
tory,  would 

udson  Bay 
of    Lake 


River,  if  it  be  within  our  boundary,  would  enter  here,  in 
preference  to  being  exposed  to  seizure.  It  is  worthy  of 
remark  that  the  charter  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
extends  to  all  its  waters :  and  if  the  British  government  con- 
ceived they  had  authority  to  make  such  a  grant,  they  cer- 
tainly would  claim  the  country  therein  specified,  which 
would  extend  far  south  of  the  west  line  from  the  head  of  the 
Lake  of  the  Woods. 

The  North  West  Company  were  about  to  push  their  trade 
down  the  Mississippi  until  they  would  have  met  the  traders 
of  Michilimackinac ;  but  I  gave  them  to  understand  that 
it  could  not  be  admitted,  as  appears  per  letter  to  Mr. 
Dickson. 

A.  Description  of  the  N.  W.  Company's  Fort  at  Sandy  Lake. 

The  fort  at  Sandy  Lake  is  situated  on  the  S.  side,  near 
the  W.  end,  and  is  a  stockade  icx)  feet  square,  with  bastions 
at  the  S.  E.  and  N.  W.  angles,  pierced  for  small-armsi.  The 
pickets  are  squared  on  the  outside,  round  within,  about  one 
foot  diameter,  and  13  feet  above  ground.  There  are  three 
gates :  the  principal  one  fronts  the  lake  on  the  N.,  and  is 
10x9  feet ;  the  one  on  the  W.  6  x  4  feet ;  and  the  one  on  the 
E.  6  X  5  feet.  As  you  enter  by  the  main  gate  you  have  on 
the  left  a  building  of  one  story,  20  feet  square,  the  residence 
of  the  superintendent.  Opposite  this  house  on  the  left  of 
the  E.  gate,  is  a  house  25  x  15  feet,  the  quarters  of  the  men. 
On  entering  the  W.  gate  you  find  the  storehouse  on  the 
right,  30  X  20  feet,  and  on  your  left  a  building  40  x  20  feet, 
which  contains  rooms  for  clerks,  a  workshop,  and  provision 
store. 

On  the  W.  and  N.  W.  is  a  picketed  inclosure  of  about  four 
acres,  in  which  last  year  they  raised  400  bushels  of  Irish 
potatoes,  cultivating  no  other  vegetables.  In  this  inclosure 
is  a  very  ingeniously  constructed  vault  to  contain  the  pota- 
toes, and  which  likewise  has  secret  apartments  to  conceal 
liquors,  dry  goods,  etc. 


'-iii 


282 


N.  W.  CO.  HOUSE  AT  LEECH   LAKE. 


B.     Description  of  the  N.  W.  Company's  Fort  at  Leech  Lake. 

The  fort  is  situated  on  the  W.  side  of  the  lake,  in  lat. 
47°  i6'  13"  N.  It  is  built  near  the  shore,  on  the  declivity 
of  a  rising  ground,  having  an  inclosed  garden  of  about  5 
acres  on  the  N.  W.  It  is  a  square  stockade  of  150  feet,  the 
pickets  being  16  feet  in  length,  3  feet  under  and  13  feet 
above  the  ground,  bound  together  by  horizontal  bars  each 
10  feet  long.  Pickets  of  lo  feet  are  likewise  driven  into  the 
ground  on  the  inside  of  the  work,  opposite  the  apertures 
between  the  large  pickets.  At  the  W.  and  E.  angles  are 
square  bastions,  pierced  for  fire-arms. 

The  main  building  in  the  rear,  fronting  the  lake,  is  6ox  25 
feet,  I  Yi  story  high  ;  the  W.  end  of  this  is  occupied  by  the 
director  of  the  Fond  du  Lac  department.  He  has  a  hall  18 
feet  square,  bed-room,  and  kitchen,  with  an  office.  The 
center  is  a  trading  shop  of  12^  feet  square,  with  a  bed- 
room in  the  rear,  of  the  same  dimensions.  The  E.  end  is  a 
large  store  25  x  20  feet,  under  which  is  an  ice-house  well 
filled.  The  loft  extends  over  the  whole  building,  and  con- 
tains bales  of  goods,  packs  of  peltries ;  also,  chests  with  500 
bushels  of  wild  rice.  Beside  the  ice-house,  there  are  cellars 
under  all  the  other  parts  of  the  building.  The  doors  and 
window-shutters  are  musket-proof. 

On  the  W.  side  is  a  range  of  buildings  54  x  18  feet,  front- 
ing the  parade,  the  N.  end  of  which  is  a  cooper's  shop  18  x  14 
feet,  with  a  cellar;  joining  to  which  is  a  room  called  the 
Indian  hall,  expressly  for  the  reception  of  Indians,  and  in 
which  the  chiefs  who  met  me  in  council  were  entertained. 
In  this  hall  are  two  closed  bunks  for  interpreters ;  its 
dimensions  are  22  x  18  feet.  Adjoining  this  is  a  room  18 
feet  square  for  the  clerks,  in  which  my  small  party  were 
quartered.     Under  both  of  the  latter  rooms  are  cellars. 

On  the  E.  side  is  a  range  of  buildings  50  x  18  feet,  which 
has  one  room  of  20  feet  and  one  of  1 5  feet,  for  quarters  for 
the  men;  also,  a  blacksmith's  shop  of  15  feet,  which  is 
occupied  by  an  excellent  workman.     On  the  left  of  the 


TARIFF  OF  PRICES  IN  EXCHANGE. 


283 


main  gate,  fronting  the  river,  is  the  flag-staff,  50  feet  in 
height. 

They  intended  building  a  small  blockhouse  over  the  main 
gate,  fronting  the  lake,  to  place  a  small  piece  of  artillery  in. 
There  are  likewise  gates  on  the  N.  and  E.  flanks,  of  about 
10  X  8  feet. 

D.     The  price  of  goods  in  exchange  with  the  Indians. 

Blankets,  3  and  i%  point,  each, 

Blankets,  2  point,  each, 

Blankets,  i^  point,  each,        . 

Blue  strouds,  'P  fathom,      .  . 

Scarlet  cl  .th,  8-6, 

Worsted  binding,  ^  piece,  . 

Vermilion,  i*  pound, 

Molten  [glass  beads],  blue  and  white,  i*  fathom. 

Gunpowder,  ^  half-pint, 

Balls,  *  30, 

Shot  of  all  sorts,  IR  handful, 

Tobacco,  V  carrot. 

Twist  tobacco,  ?  fathom, 

Beaver-traps,  each, 

Half-axes,  each, 

Castites, 

N.  W.  guns,  each. 

Knives,  each. 

For  wampum  and  silver  works,  as  well  as  rum,  there  is  no 
the  real  price  of  goods  here,  in  exchange  for  peltry,  is  about  250 
prime  cost. 

•The/ZMJ  in  the  fur-trade  was  the  standard  of  value,  viz.:  one  prime  beaver 
(abiminikwa).  In  the  above  scale  of  prices  the  plus  was  reckoned  as  $2.  The 
scale  was  a  multiple  or  fraction  of  this,  which  answered  the  purpose  of  an  Eng- 
lish shilling,  French  franc,  Indian  rupee,  or  our  dollar.  Thus  Perrault  tells  us 
that  in  1784  a  bear,  an  otter,  or  a  lynx  was  worth  a  plus;  three  martens  or  15 
muskrats  were  also  a.  plus ;  a  buffalo  was  two  plus,  etc.  A  keg  of  "made" 
liquor,  i.  e.,  three-fourths  water,  one-fourth  alcohol,  with  a  little  strychnine, 
Cocculus  indicus,  or  tobacco-juice  to  flavor  and  color  it,  has  been  sold  to  ,nany 
an  Indian  for  20  to  40plus.  During  my  recent  canoe  voyage  to  the  scarce  of 
the  Mississippi,  I  believe  that  I  could  have  been  provisioned,  lodged,  ard  trans- 
ported by  the  Chippewas  for  a  month  at  the  cost  of  a  gallon  or  two  of  "  made  " 
whisky,  had  I  been  provided  with  that  article  and  disposed  to  put  it  to  %a 
unlawful  purpose. 


.     '  plus  4 

$8 

2 

4 

I 

2 

4 

8 

6 

la 

4 

8 

4 

8 

a 

4 

I 

3 

I 

3 

I 

3 

4 

8 

I 

3 

4 

8 

3 

4 

I 

3 

10 

30 

I 

3 

is  no  regulation  ; 

but 

ut  250  per  cent,  on 

the 

Geo.  Anderson. 

284 


N.  W.  CO.  RETURN  OF  FURS  AND  PELTRIES. 


C. — Recapitulation  of  Furs  and  Peltries,  North  West  Company,  1804-5, 
Fond  du  Lac  Department ;  Marks  and  Numbers  as  per  margin. 


i 

s 

1 

3 

4 

^ 

1 

.1 

1 

1 
1 

i 

.s 

1 

1 

t 

u 

1 

8 

(Si. 

.  .. 

0 

i 
.s 

s 

1"* 
•0 

in 

C 

'•3 
■a 

e 

V 

e 

X 

1 

a 
I 

6 

S 
0 

60 
60 

in 

c 

I 

37 

10 

3 
I 

a 
3 

s 

N.  W. 

a 
3 

4 

1 

I 
9 
10 
II 
la 
13 
'4 

w 

»7 
i3 

»9 
ao 
ai 
aa 
as 
'* 
as 
36 
37 
aS 

39 

30 
3« 
3a 
33 
34 

39 
40 

4« 
43 

43 
44 

Ji 

47 
48 
49 
50 

5« 
Sa 

3 

3 

4 

1 

2 

93 
9a 
93 
91 
90 
91 
93 
87 

% 
90 
93 

93 
93 

96 
95 

% 

93 

93 

93 
93 

91 
89 
90 
90 

9« 
93 

91 
91 
91 
99 

93 

93 

% 
93 
93 
93 
90 

93 
91 
90 
9» 

^7 
104 
137 
94 
9« 
93 

93 

93 

9a 

95 
9» 

45 
47 
47 
45 
47 
47 
39 
40 

3? 
^l 
32 
38 

44 
39 
35 
40 
40 
35 

3 

a 

L.  L. 

* 

t— t 

1 

.** 

** 

' 

• 

I 

* 

' 

(  •  * 

*  * 

*  ' 

' 

* 

^5 
607 

68 
66 
64 
71 
68 
6S 
73 
75 

l\ 
61 
60 
67 

74 

% 

93 
93 
93 

93 

% 

90 
90 

91 
9a 

9> 
91 

.... 

.... 

.... 

... 

.... 

5 

4 
18 

t 
6 
6 

3 

•• 

3 

..  3 

3  35 

»  4 
I  I 

3  •■ 

1  I 

>  a 

t  ■• 

3 

5 

«4 

3 

4 

.. 

a 

a: 

5 

3 
15 

3 

3 

.. 

33 
16 

94 
144 
58 

J 

X 

3 
7 

13 

3 
I 

I  I 
..  I 

.... 

39 

66 

79 
70 

ao 
93 
93 
93 

I 

'3 

4 
3 
3 

II 

•• 

•  • 

16 

7M 

45 
10 
II 

3 

.... 

9 

.... 

69 
73 

9» 
go 

9« 
9« 

3 
a 
I 

.... 

.... 

36 
46 

«37 
>I7 

N.  W. 

57 
5' 
50 
49 

54 
59 

3 

3 

9 
14 
33 
19 

'I 

94 
91 
93 
93 
93 

63 

R. 

r— 1 

J 

i 

7 

I 

.... 

B 

67a 

1 

y,  1804-5. 
argin. 


2 
<« 

S     1    3 

0  |(2|s 


N.  W.  CO.  RETURN  OF  FURS  AND  PELTRIES.  285 

C. — Recapitulation  of  Furs  and  Peltries,  etc. — continued. 


655 
607 


60 
60 


33 
16 


16 


75^ 


94 

144 

58 


137 
"7 


672 


^ 

4 

"5 

i 

9 

u 

1 

1 

1 

si 

V 

\ 

pa 

i 

I 

i 

0 

1 
I 

I 

1 

«5 

3 

3 

II 

7 

is 

33 
6 

II 

5 

1 

B 

3 

7 

3 
I 

s 

1 

37 

7 

I 
3 
3 

15 

43 

B 

i 

»4 

19 

I 
I 
7 

4 
14 

33 

3 

3 
40 

•0 

c 

■3 

& 

T 
0 

II 

5 

9 
II 

I 

13 

I 

8 
6 
I 
6 

3 
3 

B 
it 

e 

1 

0 

I 

0 
67 

(2 

1 

s 

1 

N.  W. 

1 

R. 

4 

3 

a 

4 
3 

I 

3 

45 

3 

58 
6 
I 

500 

600 

55 

163 

61S 

47» 
49 

»— 1 

II 

13 

«3 

»4 

'  «S 

I 
3 
3 

4 

? 

9 
10 
II 

13 

'3 
»4 

•li 

IS 

»9 
so 

31 
33 
»3 

»4 

3! 

37 

38 

39 
30 
31 

3' 
33 
34 
3S 
36 

Summr. 
Nos. 

I 
3 
3 

4 

i 

\ 
9 
10 

A.Pacton. 

95 
93 
93 
93 

86 

S8 
9' 
9« 
90 
89 

1? 
87 
88 
90 
87 
9a 

95 

^6 
90 
9» 

83 

!^ 
89 

93 

94 

94 

90 

91 
93 
93 
90 
91 

§1 
7a 
93 

9« 
93 
93 

Si 
95 
95 
95 
93 
98 

8 

I 
3 

II 

I 

I 

's 

II 

I 

6 

I 

»5 

«3 

3 

4 

7 

16 
10 

•o 

N.  W. 

'3 
3 

9 
6 

•4 

.. 

14 

6 

5 
35 
3» 
31 
39 

'\ 

a 
a 

I 

S. 

1— 1 

40 
37 
37 
3' 
38 
41 
43 
33 
4« 
44 
35 
43 

39 

33 
30 

V, 

33 

38 

3a 
38 

33 

88 
91 
91 

87 
88 

93 

s 

J 

*^ 

rt 

cn 

fill 

■■ 

58 

I 

3? 
38 

34 
57 

33 
43 
43 
37 
14 

93 

V 
89 

93 

16 

4 

I 

39 
43 
43 
35 
41 
44 
7 
5 

I 
5 

4 

35 

F.  L 

I 
I 

35 
7 

3 

5« 
45 
44 
4' 

33 

14 
34 
35 
34 

13 

4 
93 
93 

SI 

•■ 

I 

199 

I 

•• 

.... 

•• 

a 
•0 

.... 

'N 

=2 

S 

s 

4 
9 

16 

•• 

.... 

4 
I 

■ 

a 
I 

1 

•• 

3 

a 

3 

6 
3 

6 

30 
II 

«9 

•S 

,__ 

Amount  of  the  above  returns,  115  Packa.    Different  establishments  not  included,  34  Packi. 
Amount  of  the  E.  of  the  X.  Y.  Company,  84  Packs.    Total  amount,  333  Packs. 


286 


N.  W.  CO.  RETURN  OF  MEN  EMPLOYED. 


E.  Return  of  men  employed  in  the  N.  W.  Company's  Depart- 
ment of  Fond  du  Lac,  for  1805,  with  the  amount  of  their 
zvages  per  annum,  etc. 


Accountants,  .... 

Clerks,  and  men  receiving  interpreters'  wages, 
Interpreters,  .... 

Canoe>inen,        .  .  .  .  . 


Total, 


Women, 
Children, 


3 
19 

2 
85 

109 


Women  and  Ch  'Idren  belonging  to  the  Establishment, 


Total, 


Sum  of  the  wi^es  per  annum  of  the  above  109  men, 
Average  wages  of  each  man,       ..... 
Due  by  the  N.  W.  Company,  .... 

Due  to  the  N.  W.  Company,      ..... 

N.  B.    The  above  women  are  all  Indians,  there  not  being 
a  single  white  woman  N.  W.  of  Lake  Superior. 


• 

29 

50 

• 

79 

LIvre 

63,913 

586 
38,566 
24,326 

7 

8 

16 

Depart- 
of  their 


iitii 


i  ! 


3 
19 

2 

85 
109 


29 
50 

79 


Livres. 
63,913 

586  7 
38,566  8 
24,326  16 

not  being 


CHAPTER  VII. 

GEOGRAPHY  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI." 

Observations  on  the  Soil,  Shores,  Quarries,  Timber,  Islands^ 
Rapids,  Confluent  Streams,  Highlands,  Prairies,  and  Settle- 
ments on  the  Mississippi,^  from  St.  Louis  to  its  Source. 

.a^ROM  St.  Louis  co  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  east 
«ll  is  a  rich  sandy  soil,  timbered  with  buttonwood,  ash, 
Cottonwood,  hackberry,  etc.  The  west  side  is  highlands  for 
a  short  distance  above  the  town ;  then  it  is  bordered  by  a 
small  prairie,  after  which  is  bottom-land,  with  the  same 
timber  as  on  the  east.  The  current  is  rapid,  and  the  navi- 
gation in  low  water  obstructed  by  sand-bars. 

'  This  article,  for  which  I  make  a  new  chapter  with  a  major  head,  was  in  the 
orig.  ed.  apart  of  Doc.  No.  18  of  the  Appendix  to  Pt.  i,  running  from  p.  41  to 
p.  56  ;  the  remainder  of  the  document — cbntinuing  without  break  to  p.  66,  and 
including  also  a  folding  table — being  an  account  of  the  Indians.  I  make  a 
separate  chapter  for  this  ethnographic  matter,  beyond.  I  retain  as  a  minor 
heading  of  the  present  chapter  Pike's  original  title  of  No.  18,  nearly  in  his  words  ; 
but  must  cut  it  down  to  exclude  "  the  savages,"  and  in  so  doing  I  also  reduce  its 
verbiage  a  little.  As  thus  restricted,  this  article  is  a  rapid  review  or  cursory  de- 
scription of  the  Mississippi,  in  so  far  as  Pike  ascended  and  descended  this  river. 
Having  already  given  a  copious  commentary  in  my  notes  on  his  itinerary,  I 
must  refer  the  reader  back  to  these  for  most  details  ;  here  I  simply  bracket  a 
few  names  in  the  text  for  the  purpose  of  ready  recognition,  and  restrict  my  notes 
to  new  matters  which  come  up. 

'  The  form  of  the  word  Mississippi  was  not  fixed  with  eleven  letters  till  after 
1800.  President  Jefferson,  a  scholar  of  his  times  and  especially  interested  in 
linguistics,  used  nine  or  ten  letters.  Our  fashion  of  doubling  all  the  consonants 
except  the  first  is  distinctly  an  innovation  which  has  no  advantage  over  Misisipi, 
but  on  the  contrary  the  undesirable  effect  of  obscuring  the  pronunciation  of  the 
Algonquian  elements  by  neutralizing  the  vowels.  Analysis  of  the  eleven  letters 
shows  three  consonantal  sounds,  one  of  them  repeated,  and  each  of  these  four 
followed  by  a  short  if  not  neutral  vowel :  Mi-si-si-pi.  The  initial  m  is  a  naso- 
labial, not  likely  to  vary,  and  in  fact  constant.  This  is  followed  by  a  sibilant 
surd,  repeated,  with  probable  and  actual  variation  to  x  of  c  or  ch  in  one  or  both 

287 


till 


tn 


i 


IHI 


i  ! 


I 


I 


! 


288 


NAMtS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI  NOTED. 


Immediately  on  the  peninsula  formed  by  the  confluence 
of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  rivers  is  a  small  Kickapoo 
settlement,  occupied  in  summer  only.  On  the  west  shore  is 
a  rich  prairie,  with  small  skirts  of  woods ;  and  on  the  east 
shore  is  generally  high  hills,  from  80  to  100  feet,  extending 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  The  current  of  the  Mississippi, 
above  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri,  is  quite  mild  until  you 

places.  The  final  consonant/  is  a  labial  surd,  easily  and  actually  variant  to  its 
sonant  b.  The  name  is  really  a  term  of  two  words  :  Misi  Sipi=Misi  River — 
whatever  Misi  niay  mean.  Waiving  this,  and  taking  the  name  as  one  word,  the 
actual  variations  w'uch  I  have  noted  from  time  to  time  may  be  thus  displayed  as 
regards  th'  ele-ei.  ors  :  (i)  M,  constant ;  (2)  «,  variant  to  a  and  e ;  (3)  first 
s,  var.  to  c,  or  mis.ing  ;  (4)  second  s,  var.  to  c  and  ch,  or  missing  ;  (5)  second  », 
nearly  constant,  when  present ;  (6)  third  x,  var.  to  c,  not  to  ch,  when  present ; 
(7)  fourth  .-,  sarnf  as  thirl  <•.•  (8)  third  »,  var.  to  e  and  y  ;  (9)  first  /,  var.  to  b  ; 
(10)  second/,  cort  .iit,  i;  not  dropped  after  the  third  /,  never  present  if  the 
third  /  becomes  b  ;  (11)  final  i,  var.  to  e  and^y.  The  permutations  possible 
under  the  several  variants  indicated  may  be  ciphered  out  by  those  who  have 
leisure  for  amusement ;  probably  not  one-tenth  of  the  possibilities  are  actualities 
in  print ;  and  of  those  actually  existent  probably  no  complete  list  has  ever  been 
made.  We  might  expect  to  find  30  forms  without  much  trouble.  Some  of  the 
examples  I  ha/e  noted  are  :  MUchipi,  Freytas,  from  Spanish  Relations  of  1661, 
pub.  1663,  perhaps  the  first  appearance  of  the  word  in  print ;  Messipi,  Allouez, 
in  French  Relations  of  1667,  said  to  be  the  original  form  in  that  language ; 
Mississipy,  1671  ;  Messisipi,  Joliet,  after  1673  ;  Micissypy,  Perrot  ;  Masciccipi, 
La  Salle,  qu.  misprint  in  first  syllable  ?  Meschasipi  and  other  forms  in  Henne- 
pin, 1683,  and  his  editors  ;  Messchsipi  on  an  old  map,  about  1688;  Michi  Sepe, 
Labal,  as  cited  by  Brower;  Mechesebe,  etc.  The  general  evolution  of  the  present 
•word  has  been  :  early  elimination  of  c  or  ch  ;  tendency  of  all  the  vowels  to  », 
with  e  in  the  first  place  and  y  in  the  last  place  longest  persistent ;  and  then 
the  doubling  of  them's  and  the/,  all  the  possible  cases  of  this  process  being 
not  only  extant,  but  neither  very  old  nor  very  rare.  The  unconscious  motif 
here  seems  to  have  been  to  give  the  longest  river  the  longest  name.  There  are 
many  other  names  of  the  "  Mycycypy  "  river,  aboriginal,  Spanish,  and  French, 
for  the  whole  or  certain  parts  of  its  course.  Spanish  relations  from  De  Soto 
yield  for  lower  parts  of  the  river  Chucagua  in  variant  forms  ;  Tamalisieu ; 
Tapatui;  and  Mico.  Also,  for  about  the  mouth,  we  have  Malabanchia  or  Mala- 
iouchia,  from  French  narration,  D'Iberville,  Mar.  2d,  1699.  An  Iroquois  name, 
Gastacfia,  is  cited.  Spanish  relations  yield  several  of  the  earliest  names,  all  of 
which  have  been  translated ;  e.  g..  El  Rio,  The  River,  Knight  of  Elvas,  pub. 
1557  ;  JRio  Grande,  Grand  r..  Great  r.,  ref.  to  Hernando  de  Soto,  near  Quizquiz, 
Sunday,  May  8th,  1541,  and  at  Guachoya,  Apr.  17th,  1542  ;  Rio  del  Espiritu 
Santo,  as  De  Biedma,  River  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  with  variant  spellings  of  the 
phrase,   cf.  Chavez  map,  in  Ortelius,   Antwerp,  1580,  and  Cortds  map  for 


NAMES  OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI   NOTED. 


289 


ifluence 
ickapoo 
shore  is 
the  east 
^tending 
ssissippi, 
until  you 

variant  to  its 
AJsi  River— 
ne  word,  the 
i  displayed  as 
d*;(3)fi«t 
(5)  second «, 
hen  present ; 
p,  var.  to  *  / 
present  if  the 
.tions  possible 
lose  who  have 
;  are  actualities 
;  has  ever  been 
Some  of  the 
lations  of  1661, 
'.ssipi,  Allouez, 
[hat  language; 
,t ;  Masciccipi, 
•ms  in  Henne- 
8;  Michi  Sepe, 
n  of  the  present 
the  vowels  to «, 
jtent ;  and  then 
,  process  being 
;onscious  moiif 
..je.     There  are 
ph,  and  French, 
from  De  Soto 
|s  ;   Tanialisieu; 
\anchia  or  Mala- 
Iroquois  name, 
ist  names,  all  of 
,t  of  Elvas,  pub. 
,,  near  Quizquiz, 
no  del  Espiritii 
spellings  of  the 
lcort&  map  for 


arrive  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois;  where,  owing  to  the 
large  sand-bars  and  many  islands,  it  is  extremely  rapid. 

The  Illinois  River  is  about  450  yards  wide  at  its  mouth, 
and  bears  from  the  Mississippi  N.  75°  W.  The  current 
appears  not  to  exceed  2]4  miles  per  hour.  The  navigation 
and  connecting  streams  of  this  river  are  too  well  known  to 
require  a  description  at  the  present  day.     From  the  Illinois 

Spanish  Charles  v.,  1520;  Riodelas  Palmas,  River  of  Palms,  Admiral  map,  1507, 
pub.  in  ed.  Ptolemy,  1513  (I  cite  these  two  without  prejudice  to  the  question 
whether  they  did  actually  apply  or  were  only  supposed  to  apply  to  the  Missis- 
sippi) ;  Rio  de  los  Palisados  (as  I  find  it  cited,  though  it  seems  to  me  R.  de  las 
Palizadas  would  be  better  Spanish  for  Palisade  r. ,  the  connotation  of  this  term 
being  what  a  steamboat  man  would  mean  if  he  said  Snag  or  Sawyer  r.)  ;  and 
Rio  Escondido,  Hidden  r.,  because  it  was  hard  to  find  the  right  channel  through 
the  delta.     Certain  genuflexions   of  French    knees  to  powers  that  were  and 
happily  be  no  longer,  are  reflected  in  the  names  Rivihe  de  la  Conception,  sc. 
of  the  B.  V.  M.,  which  Marquette  conceived  in  one  of  the  unisexual  transports 
of  his  morbid  imagination,  June  15th  or  17th,  1673,  trans.  Immaculate  Concep- 
tion r. ;  R.  de  Buade,  sc.  Frontenac  r.,  as  Joliet,  who  had  an  eye  to  a  visible 
patron  ;  R.  de  Coltert,  as  Hennepin,  who  kept  one  eye  on  St.  Anthony  and  the 
other  on  King  Louis  ;  R.  de  Louis,  R.  de  St.  Louis,  R.  de  Louisiane  of  various 
F.   relations  (5/.  Louis  occurring  in  letters  patent  of  Louis  XIV.  to  Crozat, 
Sept.  14th,  1712);  from  descriptive  phrases  which  are  found  in  Radisson's  rela- 
tions, Forked  r.  and  River  That  Divides  Itself  in  Two  have  been  evolved  as 
names  with  the  aid  of  capitals  ;  the  upper  section  of  the  stream,  flowing  from 
Lake  Itasca,  has  been  called  R.  <J  la  Biche,  Elk  r.,  from  the  former  F.  name 
Lac  k  la  Biche,  translating  Ojibwa  Omoshkos  Sogiagon ;    the   next  section, 
Bemidji-sibi,  with  many  variants  of  this,  in  Ojibwa,  French,  Italian,  and  Eng- 
lish ;  the  next  section,  R.  aux  Chdres  Rouges,  Red  Cedar  r.,  Cassina  r.,  Cass 
r. ;  next  section,  Winnibigoshish  r. ,  in  many  variants  ;  and  below  the  conflu'^nce 
of  the  Leech  Lake  fork,  Kitchi-sibi,  Great  r.     There  are  also  several  forms  of 
the  Sioux  name,  to  the  same  effect  as  Kitchi-sibi.     I  am  ignorant  of  any  Eng- 
lish name  originally  given  as  a  genuine  appellation,  and  not  a  translation  or 
mere  epithet,  like  "  Father  of  Waters,"  and  the  like.     It  ■:.  tjxt-book  tradition 
that  this  phrase  translates  the  Algonquian  term  ;  which  tradition  is  too  untrue 
and  too  popular  to   ever  die — let  it  rest  in  peace,  along  with    Washington's 
hatchet  and  Tell's  apple.     It  is  Featherstonhaugh,  I  think  (I  have  mislaid  the 
mem.  I  once  made),  who  remarks  with  great  gravity  and  great  truth,  that 
"Father  of  Waters"  is  a  misnomer,  because  the  river  resulting  from  the  con- 
fluence of  other  rivers  is  the  Son  of  Waters  and  not  the  father  of  them  at  all. 
This  is  a  sober  sort  of  statement,  for  a  witticism  ;  it  is  not  a  figurative  locution 
or  a  flight  of  fancy ;  it  is  a  solemn  fact.     It  only  stops  short  of  the  most 
comprehensive  statement  that  can  be  made  regarding   the  origin  of  rivers, 
which  is,  that  all  rivers  arise  in  cloudland. 


1 1'  ;i ;  i 


% 


wr:\ 


290 


COPPER  RIVER  TO  NORTH  TWO  RIVERS. 


I 


to  Buffalo  river  the  E.  shore  is  hills,  but  of  easy  ascent. 
On  the  W.  is  continued  the  prairie,  but  not  always  border- 
ing on  the  river.  The  timber  on  both  sides  is  generally 
hackberry,  Cottonwood,  and  ash.  Buffalo  [Cuivre]  river 
comes  in  on  the  W.  shore,  and  appears  to  be  about  lOO 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth  ;  it  bears  from  the  Mississippi  S.  30° 
W.  From  the  Illinois  to  this  river  the  navigation  is  by  no 
means  difficult,  and  the  current  mild. 

Thence  to  Salt  or  Oahahah  river,  the  east  shore  is  either 
immediately  bounded  by  beautiful  cedar  cliffs,  or  the  ridges 
may  be  seen  at  a  distance.  On  the  W.  shore  there  is  a  rich 
low  soil,  and  two  small  rivers  which  increase  the  waters  of 
the  Mississippi.  The  first  [Buffalo  creek]  called  Bar  river, 
about  20  yards  in  width.  The  second  [now  Noir  *  or  Bear 
creek]  is  about  15  yards.  Salt  river  bears  from  the  Missis- 
sippi N.  75°  W.,  and  is  about  I  JO  or  120  yards  wide  at  its  en- 
trance, and  when  I  passed  appeared  to  be  perfectly  mild, 
with  scarcely  any  current.  About  one  day's  sail  up  the 
river  there  are  salt  springs,  which  have  been  worked  for  four 
years ;  but  I  am  not  informed  as  to  their  qualities  or  pro- 
ductions. In  this  distance  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi 
is  very  much  obstructed  by  bars  and  islands  ;  indeed  to  such 
a  degree  as  to  render  it  in  many  places  difificult  to  find  the 
proper  channel.  The  shores  are  generally  a  sandy  soil,  tim- 
bered with  sugar-maple,  ash,  pecan,  locust,  and  black  walnut. 
The  E.  side  has  generally  the  preference  as  to  situations 
for  buildings. 

From  this  to  the  river  Jaustioni  [Jauflione,  Jeffrion,  or 
North  Two  Rivers:  see  note",  pp.  10,  11],  which  is  our 
boundary  between  the  Sac  nation  and  the  United  States  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi,  we  have  hills  on  the  W. 
shore,  and  lowlands  on  the  E.,  the  latter  of  which  is  tim- 
bered with  hickory,  oak,  ash,  maple,  pecan,  etc.;  the  former 
the  same,  with  an  increase  of  oak.    The  E.  is  a  rich  sandy  soil, 

*  See  note  ",  p.  7,  and  add  :  I  suspect  that  Noir  is  not  the  F.  adj.  which 
means  "  black,"  but  a  perversion  of  the  noun  Noix,  Noyau,  or  Noyer,  meaning 
"  nut "  or  "  walnut."    Beck's  Gazetteer,  1823,  gives  the  name  as  Noyer  cr. 


WYACONDA,  DES  MOINES,  AND  HENDERSON  RIVERS.    29I 


ascent, 
border- 
encrally 
e]  river 
out  100 
pi  S.  30° 
is  by  no 

is  either 
he  ridges 
;  is  a  rich 
waters  of 
Bar  river, 
:»or  Bear 
he  Missis- 
i  at  its  en- 
xtly  mild, 
i\\  up  the 
;ed  for  four 
lies  or  pro- 
Mississippi 
jed  to  such 
to  find  the 
ly  soil,  tim- 
Lck  walnut, 
situations 

Ijeffrion,  or 
Thich  is  our 
|d  States  on 
on  theW. 
lich  is  tim- 
the  former 
sandy  soil, 

le  F.  adj.  which 
\oyer,  meaning 
I  Noyer  cr. 


and  has  many  very  eligible  situations  for  cultivation.  About 
seven  miles  below  the  Jaustioni  a  Frenchman  is  settled 
on  the  W.  shore.  He  is  married  to  a  woman  of  the  Sac 
nation,  and  lives  by  a  little  cultivation  and  the  Indian  trade. 
The  [North]  river  before  mentioned  is  about  30  yards  wide 
at  its  mouth,  and  bears  from  the  Mississippi  about  S.  W. 
In  this  part  of  the  river  the  navigation  is  good. 

From  this  to  the  Wyaconda  river  [at  La  Grange,  Lewis 
Co.,  Mo.]  the  navigation  is  easy,  with  very  few  impediments ; 
and  the  soil  on  both  sides  pretty  good.  This  river  pays  its 
tribute  to  the  Mississippi  by  a  mouth  100  yards  wide,  and 
bears  from  the  latter  nearly  due  W.  Just  below  its  entrance 
is  [Durgan's  creek]  a  small  stream  15  yards  wide,  which  dis- 
charges into  the  Mississippi.  Between  this  river  and  the 
River  de  Moyen  [Des  Moines]  there  is  one  small  [Fox] 
river  emptying  into  the  Mississippi  on  the  W.,  about  55 
yards  in  width,  and  bearing  S.  by  W.  The  first  part  of  the 
distance  is  obstructed  by  islands,  and  the  river  expands  to  a 
great  width,  so  as  to  render  the  navigation  extremely  diffi- 
cult ;  but  the  latter  part  affords  more  water  and  is  less 
difficult.  The  timber  is  principally  oak  and  pecan  ;  the  soil 
as  on  the  river  below.  For  a  description  of  de  Moyen, 
see  the  chart  herewith ;  and  for  that  of  the  rapids  [near 
Keokuk]  see  my  diary  of  Aug.  20th. 

.  Above  the  rapid  de  Moyen,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi [at  Montrose,  Lee  Co.,  la.],  is  situated  the  first  Sac 
village,  consisting  of  13  lodges;  and  immediately  opposite 
is  the  establishment  of  Mr.  Ewing,*  the  American  agent  at 
that  place.  Whence  to  a  large  prairie  on  the  E.  side,  on 
which  [and  on  Henderson  river]  is  situated  the  second  Sac 
village ;  the  E.  side  of  the  river  is  beautiful  land,  principally 
prairie.  The  W.  is  in  some  part  highland ;  both  sides  are 
timbered  with  oak,  ash,  etc.  The  navigation  is  by  no  means 
difficult. 

*  An  opinion  of  Mr.  Ewing  occupies  note  ",  p.  15.  A  hitherto  unpublished 
letter  of  General  William  Clark,  Indian  Agent  for  Louisiana,  to  the  Secretary 
at  War,  is  in  part  as  follows  : 


111'  .i 


:ii 


292 


WILLIAM  CLARK  ON  WILLIAM  EWING. 


Thence  to  the  Iowa  river  the  navigation  is  much  ob. 
structed  with  islands.  In  ascending  Iowa  river  36  miles 
you  come  to  a  fork,  the  right  branch  of  which  is  called  Red 
Cedar  river,  from  the  quantity  of  that  wood  on  its  banks ; 
this  is  navigable  for  batteaux  nearly  300  miles,  where  it 
branches  out  into  three  forks,  called  the  Turkey's  foot. 
Those  forks  shortly  after  lose  themselves  in  Rice  lakes. 

The  Iowa  river  bears  from  the  Mississippi  S.  W.  and  is 
150  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  The  E.  shore  of  the  Missis- 
sippi is  high  prairie,  with  yellow  clay  banks,  and  in  some 
places  red  sand.  On  the  W.  is  prairie  also,  but  bounded  on 
the  shore  by  skirts  of  woods.  About  10  miles  up  the  Iowa 
river,  on  its  right  bank,  is  a  village  of  the  lowas. 

From  this  place  to  Rock  river  we  generally  had  beautiful 
prairies  on  the  W.,  but  in  some  places  very  rich  land,  with 


'Sir 


'  Saint  Louis  22nd.  June  1807. 


"...  William  Ewing's  Account  for  provisions,  hired  men  and  Squars  [squaws] 
apj^ears  to  be  unatherized  by  any  person  in  this  Country.  M'  G.  Chouteau 
informs  me  that  he  never  empowered  him  under  any  authority  which  he  possessed 
to  incur  such  expences  to  the  U  :  States  as  [are]  charged  in  his  account. — 
And  further  says  that  he  has  always  given  such  provisions  and  other  articles  to 
Mr  Ewing  as  he  thought  the  Public  Service  required,  for  which  he  either  paid 
himself  or  included  in  the  account  of  Rations  settled  with  the  Contractor. — The 
public  clammer  [clamor]  at  this  place  is  very  much  against  M'  Ewing  ;  many 
unfavourable  relation  has  been  made  of  his  conduct,  such  as  purchaseing  the 
Indians  Guns  for  whisky  and  selling  them  again  to  the  Indians  for  a  high 
price. —  Selling  his  corn  to  the  Traders  for  trinkets  for  his  Squar,  hireing  men 
on  the  behalf  of  the  United  States  and  sending  them  to  work  for  his  private 
benefit,  makeing  an  incorrect  report  to  me,  &c  &c  i  am  induced  to  believe 
from  the  report  of  M'  Bolvar  [Nicholas  Boilvin]  and  others  who  are  willing  to 
sweare  that  M^  W™  Ewing  has  behaved  incorrectly  and  his  example  is  degrad- 
ing to  the  institution,  and  calculate  to  give  the  Indians  an  unfavourable  im- 
pression of  the  public  Agents  in  this  Country.  The  Conduct  of  public  Agents 
in  this  distant  quarter,  I  fear  will  never  be  under  sufRcent  check  until  there  is  a 
person  to  whome  all  are  obliged  to  account  resideing  in  this  Country,  with  full 
power  and  descretion  to  inspect  their  actions  &c   &c 

"  A  copy  of  Mr.  Ewings  report  is  inclosed  in  which  he  states  the  situation  of 
his  establishment  and  his  prospects  &c    .  .  . 

"  Yout  most  Obedent 

"  Humble  Servent, 
rSigned]  "  Wm  Clark.  I.  A.  L." 


ROCK  RIVER  TO  DUBUQUE. 


293 


uch  ob- 
;6  miles 
led  Red 
,  banks; 
where  it 
y's  foot. 
ikes. 

V.  and  is 
le  Missis- 

in  some 
unded  on 

the  Iowa 

I  beautiful 
land,  with 

June  1807. 

luars  [squaws] 
G.  Chouteau 
;h  he  possessed 
[lis  account.— 
ther  articles  to 
he  either  paid 
itractor. — The 
Ewing ;  many 
urchaseing  the 
ms  for  a  high 
ir,  hireing  men 
[or  his  private 
uced  to  believe 
o  are  willing  to 
..iple  is  degrad- 
ifavourable  im- 
public  Agents 
until  there  is  a 
untry,  with  full 

Ithe  situation  of 


»K.  I.  A.  L." 


black  walnut  and  hickory  timber.  Stony  [Rock]  river  is 
a  large  river  which  takes  its  source  near  Green  bay  of 
Lake  Michigan  more  than  450  .-niles  from  its  mouth,  and  is 
navigable  upward  of  300  miles  ;  it  empties  into  the  Missis- 
sippi on  the  E.  shore,  and  is  about  300  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth.  It  bears  from  the  Mississippi  almost  due  E. 
About  three  miles  up  this  river,  on  the  S.  bank  [Milan, 
Rock  Island  Co.,  111.],  is  situated  the  third  town  of  the  Sac 
nation,  which,  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  James  Aird,  was 
burned  in  the  year  1781  or  1782,  by  about  300  Americans, 
although  the  Indians  had  assembled  700  warriors  to  give 
them  battle.  For  a  description  of  the  rapids  of  Stony 
river,  see  my  diary  of  Aug.  28th. 

Between  Iowa  river  and  Turkey  river,  on  the  W.,  you 
find  Wabisipinekan  river.  It  coasts  along  Red  Cedar  river 
in  a  parallel  direction,  with  scarcely  any  wood  on  its  banks. 
The  next  water  is  the  Great  Macoketh,  and  20  leagues  higher 
is  the  little  river  of  the  same  name.  These  two  rivers 
appear  to  approach  each  other,  and  have  nothing  remarkable 
excepting  lead  mines,  which  are  said  to  be  in  their  banks. 

A  little  above  the  rapids  of  Rock  river,  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  Mississippi,  is  situated  the  first  Reynard  village  ;  it  con- 
sists of  about  18  lodges  [Le  Claire,  Scott  Co.,  la.].  From 
this  place  to  the  lead  mines  [Dubuque,  la.]  the  Mississippi 
evidently  becomes  narrower ;  but  the  navigation  is  thereby 
rendered  much  less  difficult.  The  shores  are  generally 
prairie,  which,  if  not  immediately  bordering  on  the  river, 
can  be  seen  through  the  skirts  of  forests  which  border  the 
river.  The  timber  is  generally  maple,  birch,  and  oak,  and 
the  soil  very  excellent.  To  this  place  we  had  seen  only 
a  few  turkeys  and  deer,  the  latter  of  which  are  pretty 
numerous  from  the  river  de  Moyen  up.  For  a  description 
of  the  lead  mines,  see  my  report  from  the  prairie  des  Chiens 
of  Sept.  5th.' 

'Being  letter  to  General  Wilkinson,  from  that  place  at  that  date,  which 
formed  Doc.  No.  2,  p.  2,  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  i  of  the  orig.  ed.  See  Art.  2, 
p.  223.     The  lead  mines  are  of  course  identifiable  with  the  location  of  Dubuque; 


111 


Mf 


ft 


{} 


294 


DUBUQUE  TO  PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN. 


From  the  lead  mines  unto  Turkey  river  the  Mississippi 
continues  about  the  same  width  ;  and  the  banks,  soil,  and 
productions  are  entirely  similar.  Turkey  river  empties  on 
the  W.,  bears  from  the  Mississippi  about  S.  W.,  and  is 
about  loo  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  Half  a  league  up  this 
river,  on  the  right  bank,  is  the  third  village  of  the  Reynards, 
at  which  place  they  raise  sufficient  corn  to  supply  all  the 
permanent  and  transient  inhabitants  of  the  Prairie  dcs 
Cliiens.  Thence  to  the  Ouiscousing  the  high  hills  are  per- 
ceptible on  both  sides,  but  on  the  W.  almost  border  the 
river  the  whole  distance.  The  Ouiscousing  at  its  entrance 
is  nearly  half  a  mile  wide,  and  bears  from  the  Mississippi 
nearly  N.  E. 

Tills  river  is  the  grand  source  of  communication  between 
the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi,  and  the  route  by  which  all  the 
traders  of  Michilimackinac  convey  their  goods  for  the  trade 
of  the  Mississippi  from  St.  Louis  to  the  river  de  Corbeau, 
and  the  confluent  streams  which  are  in  those  boundaries. 

The  voyage  from  Michilimackinac  to  the  Prairie  des 
Chiens,  by  the  Ouiscousing  and  Fox  rivers,  is  as  follows  :  * 

but  the  precise  situation  of  Julien  Dubuque's  house,  where  Pike  stopped  both 
ways,  was  Catfisli  cr.,  about  2  m.  below.  Mr,  Dubuque  died  Mar.  24th,  1810, 
oged  4S/4  years,  and  was  buried  on  the  eminence  close  by,  which  became  known 
as  Dubuque's  bluff,  and  still  bears  this  name.  The  peculiar  character  of  his 
claim  to  the  property  occasioned  much  litigation,  which  was  carried  up  to  the 
Supreme  Court  of  the  U.  S.,  and  there  decided  in  favor  of  the  settlers,  in  or 
about  1853. 

'  This  description  makes  in  the  orig.  ed.  a  3-page  footnote,  which  I  reset  in 
the  main  text,  as  no  confusion  will  come  from  this  obvious  digression,  the  reader 
returning  to  Prairie  du  Chien  in  due  course.  It  was  furnished  to  Pike  by  (Robert) 
Dickson,  whose  name  appears  at  the  end.  In  spite  of  the  mangling  of  the  geo- 
graphical names,  and  one  or  two  sentences  that  seem  to  have  got  awry,  it  is  a 
very  telling  piece  of  work — perhaps  the  most  concise  and  correct  statement 
extant  in  1810  of  what  is  one  of  the  most  memorable  routes  in  the  annals  nf 
American  exploration.  It  was  by  this  famous  Fox-Wisconsin  traverse  from  the 
Great  Lakes  to  the  Miss.  r.  that  the  latter  was  itself  discovered  to  Europeans. 
For  it  is  practically  if  not  identically  the  route  of  Joliet  and  Marquette,  167?. 
Under  the  Canadian  governorship  of  Comte  Louis  de  Buade  de  Frontenac,  who 
succeeded  De  Courcelle  Apr.  gth,  1672,  the  Quebec  trader  Joliet,  the  priest  Mar- 
quette, and  five  other  Frenchmen,  who  were  at  Michilimackinac  in  Dec,  1672, 


MICHILIMACKINAC— LAKE   MICHIGAN. 


»9S 


ssissippi 
soil,  and 
pties  on 
,  and   is 
;  up  this 
Uynards, 
y  all  the 
rairie  des 
s  are  per- 
,order  the 
s  entrance 
Mississippi 

on  between 
hich  all  the 
ar  the  trade 
de  Corbeau, 
mndaries. 

Prairie  des 
follows :  • 

like  stopped  both 
JMar.  24th.  1810, 
;h  became  known 

character  of  bis 
carried  up  to  the 
[he  settlers,  in  or 


"The  distance  between  Michilimackinac  and  the  settle- 
ment at  the  bottom  of  Green  bay  is  calculated  to  be  80 
leagues.  On  leaving  Michilimackinac  there  is  a  traverse  of 
five  miles  to  Point  St.  Ignace  [in  Mackinac  Co.,  Mich.],  which 
is  the  entrance  into  Lake  Michigan.  Four  leagues  from 
Michilimackinac  is  an  island  of  considerable  extent,  named 
St.  Helens  [or  Helena],  which  may  be  seen  from  that  place 
on  a  clear  day.  The  shore  [of  Lake  Michigan]  from  Michili- 
mackinac to  Point  du  Chene  [Pointe  au  Ch^ne,  Oak  Point], 
which  is  a  league  distant  from  the  island,  is  rocky ;  and  from 
this  point  to  the  island  of  Epouvette,  which  is  a  very  small 
one  near  the  banks  of  the  lake,  is  high  and  covered  with 
pine  ;  the  soil  is  very  barren.  From  this  island  to  the  river 
Mino  Cockien  [Milakokia]  is  five  leagues.  Two  small 
islands  are  on  the  way,  and  a  river  where  boats  and  L.inoes 
may  take  shelter  from  a  storm.  The  river  Mino  Cockien  is 
large  and  deep,  and  takes  its  rise   near   Lake   Superior. 

passed  thence  by  Green  bay  of  Lake  Michigan,  Fox  r. ,  Lake  Winnebago  and  Wis. 
r.,  to  Miss.  r.  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  reached  June  15th  or  17th,  1673,  and  named 
Riviere  Colbert  after  the  French  king's  minister.'  Our  esteemed  antetempo- 
rary  Jonathan  Carver  paddled  that  way  too,  and  so  did  others  too  numer- 
ous to  mention,  among  them  the  macronymous  G.  W.  Featherstonhaugh,  F.  R. 
S.,  etc.,  whose  canoe  "oyage  up  the  Minnay  Sotor,  etc.,  made  in  1835,  fur- 
nished data  for  very  reaaable  and  realistic  gossip,  2  vols.  8vo,  Lend.  1847,  I.  p. 
151  se^.  The  clearest  view  of  the  Fox-Wisconsin  traverse  I  have  seen  is  on  tlie 
map  accompanying  Bvt.  Maj.  C.  R.  Suter's  Rep.,  being  Doc.  E  of  13vt.  Maj.- 
Gen.  G.  K.  Warren's  Prelim.  Rep.  Surv.  Miss.  River  above  Rock  Island  rapids, 
this  being  Ex.  Doc.  No.  58,  Ho.  Reps.,  39th  Congress,  2d  Sess.,  8vo,  Wash- 
ington, Government  Printing  Office,  1867,  op.  1-116.  Accurate  engineering 
operations  always  reduce  the  mileages  guessed  at  by  tired  travelers  or  idle  tour- 
ists, but  Dickson's  estimates  come  remarkably  near  Suter's  measurements,  some 
of  which  are  :  Lower  Fox  r.,  37^^  m.;  traverse  on  Lake  Winnebago,  15^  m, ; 
Upper  Fox  r.,  104  m.;  canal  at  portage,  2|^  m. ;  Wisconsin  r.,  112  m.;  total, 
Green  Bay  to  Prairie  du  Chien,  271^  m. 

I  may  here  summarize  as  curtly  as  I  can  the  main  points  of  the  probable  fact 
that  the  Upper  Mississippi  was  reached  by  practically  this  route,  by  Menard 
and  Guerin,  before  its  long-alleged  and  generally  accepted  discovery  by  Joliet 
and  Marquette,  as  above  noted.  In  1650  P'ond  du  Lac  was  approached  by  two 
traders,  Groseilliers  and  Radisson  ;  the  former  was  Medard  Chouart,  the  latter 
Pierre  d'Esprit.  Groseilliers,  Grozayyay,  Desgrozeliers,  etc.,  was  b.  near 
Meaux  in  France ;  traded  on  Lake  Huron  in  1646  ;  in  1647,  married  Veuve 


1 1 


296 


LAKE  MICHIGAN. 


From  this  to  Shouchoir  [Pointe  Seul  Choix,  in  Schoolcraft 
Co.,  Mich.]  is  ten  leagues.  The  shore  [along  by  Points 
Patterson,  Scott,  and  Hughes]  is  dangerous,  from  the 
number  of  shoals  that  extend  a  great  way  into  the  lake. 
This  rock  [or  point],  called  Shouchoir,  is  an  excellent 
harbor  for  canoes,  but  its  entrance,  when  the  wind  blows 
from  the  lake,  is  difficult ;  but  when  once  in,  canoes  and 
boats  may  lie  during  any  storm  without  unlading.  A  cus- 
tom prevails  here  among  the  voyagers  for  everyone  to 
hav'j  his  name  carved  on  the  rocks  the  first  time  he  passes, 
and  pay  something  to  the  canoe-men.  From  this  to  the 
river  Manistique  [Monistique,  at  Epsport,  Schoolcraft  Co., 
Mich.]  is  five  leagues.  This  is  a  large  river ;  the  entrance 
is  difficult,  from  a  sand-bank  at  its  mouth,  and  the  waves 
are  very  high  when  the  wind  blows  from  the  lake.  At  cer- 
tain seasons  sturgeon  are  found  here  in  great  numbers.  The 
banks  of  this  river  are  high  and  sandy,  covered  with  pine. 
It  takes  its  rise  [in  part]  from  a  large  lake  [of  the  same 

]£tienne  of  Quebec,  daughter  of  Abraham  Martin  ;  in  Aug.,  1653,  married  Mar- 
guerite Hayet  Radisson,  sister  of  Radisson.  Radisson  was  b.  St.  Malo,  France; 
came  to  Canada  1651,  married  Elizabeth  Herault  1656  ;  was  at  Three  Rivers  in 
Canada  in  1658,  and  arranged  to  go  with  Grcseilliers  to  Lake  Superior.  The 
two  built  the  first  trading-post  on  Lake  Superior,  at  Chaquamegon  bay  (old 
Chagouamikon,  etc.).  Groseilliers  was  back  at  Montreal  Aug.  21st,  1660  ;  he 
returned  to  Lake  Superior  and  was  at  Keweenaw  bay  Oct.  rsth,  1660.  Some  of 
the  traders  of  his  party  wintered  here  1660-61 ;  with  them  was  the  Jesuit 
Menard,  the  first  missionary  on  the  lake.  Menard  and  one  Jean  Guerin  left  the 
lake  June  13th,  1661,  for  the  region  of  the  Ottawa  lakes  in  Wisconsin.  Perrot 
says  that  Menard  and  Guerin  followed  the  Outaouas  to  the  Lake  of  the  Illinoets 
(Lake  Michigan),  and  to  the  River  Louisiane  (t.  r,  the  Mississippi),  to  a  point 
above  the  River  Noire  (Black  r.),  where  they  were  deserted  by  their  Huriu 
Indians.  One  day  in  August,  1661,  they  were  ascending  a  rapid  in  their 
canoe,  which  Menard  left  to  lighten  it  ;  he  lost  his  way,  and  perished  ;  Guerin 
survived.  Menard's  breviary  and  cassock,  it  is  said,  were  later  found 
among  the  Siou/:.  Jus'in  Winsor's  Narr.  and  Crit.  Hist.  Amer.  IV.  p.  206, 
gives  a  sketch  map  on  which  a  place  is  marked  as  that  where  Menard  was  lost. 
This  seems  to  be  toward  the  sources  of  Chippewa  r.  If  Perrot's  relation  be 
true,  and  not  misunderstood,  Menard  and  Guerin  reacheJ  the  Mississippi  via  the 
Wisconsin  from  Green  bay,  ascended  it  tr  the  Black  or  the  Chippewa,  and  left 
it  that  way  in  the  summer  of  1661,  12  years  before  Joliet  and  Marquette  came 
to  the  Mississippi. 


LAKE   MICHIGAN— GREEN  BAY. 


297 


(olcraft 

Points 
,m  the 
le  lake, 
xcellent 
i  blows 
oes  and 
A  cus- 
yone  to 
e  passes, 
is  to  the 
craft  Co., 

entrance 
;he  waves 
.  At  cer- 
)ers.  The 
with  pine. 
;  the  same 

,  married  Mar- 
jMalo,  France; 
hree  Rivers  in 
Superior.     The 
legon  bay  (oUi 
2 1st,  1660  ;  he 
l66o.     Some  of 
was  the  Jesuit 
.Guerin  left  the 
:onsin.     Perrot 
of  the  Illinoets 
ppi),  to  a  point 
,y  their  Huron 
rapid  in  their 
Irished;   Gueriu 
:re  later   found 
»er.  IV.  p.  206, 
.enard  was  lost, 
[rot's  relation  be 
ississippi  via  the 
Ippewa,  and  left 
Marquette  came 


name],  and  nearly  communicates  with  Lake  Superior. 
From  this  to  the  Detour  [Pointe  de  Tour  (Turning  Point), 
end  of  the  peninsula  in  Delta  Co.,  between  Baie  de  Noc 
and  Lake  Michigan]  is  10  leagues  [passing  Point  Wiggins, 
Pointe  au  Barque,  and  Portage  bay].  The  shore  is  rocky, 
flat,  and  dangerous.  Here  begins  the  Traverse,  at  the 
mouth  of  Green  bay.  The  first  island  is  distant  from  the 
mainland  about  a  league,  and  is  called  the  Isle  au  Detour 
[now  Big  Summer  island] ;  it  is  at  least  three  leagues  in 
circumference.  There  are  generally  a  few  Sautcaux  lodges 
of  Indians  on  this  island  during  the  summer  months. 
From  this  to  Isle  Brule  [Gravelly  island]  is  three  leagues. 
There  are  two  small  [Gull]  islands  from  these  to  Isle  Verte 
[St.  Martin's  island],  and  it  is  two  leagues  to  Isle  de  Pou 
{Washington  island],  called  so  from  the  Poutowatomies 
having  once  had  a  village  here,  now  abandoned.  In  the 
months  of  May  and  June  there  is  a  fishery  of  trout  [Sahna 
{Cristivo7ner)  namaycush\  and  they  are  taken  in  great 
quantities  by  trolling.  There  are  also  whitefish  \Coregonus 
clupeiformis\  in  vast  numbers.  The  ship  channel  is  between 
this  island  and  Isle  Verte.  Thence  to  Petit  D'Etroit 
[Detroit]  to  the  mainland  is  three  leagues,  where  some 
lodges  of  Ottawas  and  Sauteaux  raise  small  quantities  of 
corn ;  but  their  subsistence,  during  the  summer  months, 
chiefly  depends  upon  the  quantities  of  sturgeon  \Acipenscr 
rubiaindus]  and  other  fish,  with  which  the  lake  here 
abounds.  From  Petit  D'F.troit  [the  strait  between  Wash- 
ington island  and  the  mainland  of  Door  Co.,  Wis.,  in  which 
are  Detroit,  Plum,  and  Pilot  islands]  to  the  mainland  is 
three  leagues,  and  is  called  the  Port  de  Mort  [Porte  des 
Morts],  from  a  number  of  Reynard  canoes  having  been 
wrecked  at  this  place,  where  everyone  perished.  The  shore 
is  bold  and  rocky  [Hedgehog  Harbor,  Death's  Door  Bluffs, 
Sister  Bluffs,  etc.].  From  this  it  is  four  leagues  to  the  Isle 
Rarro  [Horseshoe  island,  in  Eagle  bay],  which  is  a  safe 
harbor,  inaccessible  to  all  winds.  From  this  to  Sturgeon 
bay  is  eight  leagues.    The  shore  is  bold  and  rocky  [Eagle 


•!.  r 


■m 


298 


GREEN  BAY— LOWER  FOX  RIVER. 


Bluff,  Egg  Harbor,  etc.],  and  several  large  [Chambers, 
Green,  and  the  small  Strawberry,  and  Hat]  islands  lie  a  few 
miles  distant.  A  few  Sauteaux  families  raise  corn  here  and 
reside  during  the  summer  season.  Trout  and  sturgeon  are 
here  in  great  numbers.  Sturgeon's  bay  is  two  miles  across 
and  about  four  leagues  in  length,  and  communicates  by  a 
portage  [now  a  canal]  with  Lake  Michigan,  near  Micbili- 
mackinac.  Distant  from  the  lake  about  two  leagues  L  vi 
Isle  Vermillion  [off  Little  Sturgeon  bay].  Here  were  a  lew 
years  ago  a  number  of  Fols  Avoin  inhabitants,  who  were 
accustomed  to  raise  corn ;  but  for  what  reasons  they  have 
left  this  place  I  cannot  learn.  From  this  is  13  leagues  to 
the  entrance  of  Fox  river.  On  leaving  Isle  Vermillion, 
the  woods  and  general  appearance  of  the  country  begin  to 
change,  and  have  a  very  different  aspect  from  the  more 
northern  parts  of  this  lake  [/.  e..  Green  bay].  A  small  river 
called  Riviere  Rouge  [Red  river,  and  town  of  same  name, 
in  Kewaunee  Co.]  falls  into  the  lake  [Green  bay],  about 
halfway  between  Isle  Vermillion  and  La  Baye  [La  Bale  ; ' 

'  Dickson's  use  of  the  term  "  La  Baye"  requires  qualification  to  prevent  mis- 
reading him.  I.  The  old  Baye  des  Puans  or  Puants,  Stinkers'  bay,  so  called 
from  the  malodorous  fish-eating  Winnebagos  who  lived  thereabouts,  became 
from  its  verdure  la  Baie  Verte,  our  Green  bty,  ».  e.,  the  whole  water  of  that 
great  N.  W.  arm  of  Lake  Michigan,  into  the  hviad  of  which  Lower  Fox  r.  emp- 
ties. The  last  7  m.  of  this  river  makes  a  sort  of  est'iary  from  the  foot  of  the 
last  rapids,  or  head  of  natural  river  navigation,  to  the  waters  of  Green  bay ; 
and  this  whole  estuarian  course  was  La  Baye  or  La  Baie  of  various  early  writers. 
2.  The  earliest  French  footing  on  the  estuary  was  the  Jesuit  mission  at  the  foot 
of  the  rapids  called  Rapides  des  P^res  (Priests'  rapids),  whence  the  modern  name 
De  Pere  or  Depere  for  the  town  now  at  or  near  the  spot,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
river.  The  earliest  French  fort  there  was  called  Fort  La  Baye  or  La  Baie  ;  and 
this  is  the  implication  of  the  terui  as  the  name  of  a  spot  or  place  on  the  estu- 
ary also  called  "  La  Baye  "  or  "  La  Baie."  3.  When  settlement  was  made  under 
English  occupation  it  crept  down  the  estuary  on  the  E.  side  to  near  the  bay, 
and  "  I^a  Baye,"  i.  e..  La  Baie  Verte,  furnished  the  local  habitation  as  well  as 
the  name  of  our  Green  P?y  (town),  a  mile  or  two  above  the  mouth  of  the  estu- 
ary. 4.  Under  our  regime.  La  Baie  of  the  American  Fur  Company  period  was 
at  a  place  called  Shantytown,  say  halfway  between  the  old  French  La  Baye 
(present  town  of  Depere)  and  the  less  old  English  La  Baie  (present  county  town 
of  Green  Bay,  Brown  Co.,  Wis.).  5.  There  were  other  settlements  along  the 
estuary,  on  the  same  side  too.     Thus,  writing  of  1835,  Featherstonhaugh  speaks 


LOWER  FOX  RIVER. 


299 


location  of  Green  Bay,  seat  of  Brown  Co.].  On  approach- 
ing La  Baye,  the  water  of  the  latter  [lake,  /.  e..  Green  bay] 
assumes  a  whiter  appearance,  and  becomes  less  deep.  A 
channel  which  winds  a  good  deal  may  be  found  for  vessels 
of  50  and  60  tons  burden ;  loaded  vessels  of  these  dimen- 
sions have  gone  up  Fox  river  to  the  French  settlement  [of 
La  Baie,  site  of  Depere],  opposite  which  is  the  Fols  Avoin 
village  [present  site  of  Nicollet],  which  consists  of  10  "^r  12 
bark  lodges.  A  great  number  of  Sauteaux,  and  some 
Ottawas,  come  here  in  the  spring  and  fall.  Three  leagues 
from  La  Baye  [present  Green  Bay]  is  a  small  village  [below 
present  Little  Kaukauna]  of  the  same  nation ;  and  there  is 
another  three  leagues  higher,  at  the  portage  of  Kakalin 
[Little  Rapids '].     This  portage  is  a  mile  long ;  the  ground 

of  the  new  American  settlement  of  Navarino,  "a  short  distance  "  from  Shanty- 
town  ;  he  describes  the  latter  as  "  a  small  bourgade,"  and  locates  Navarino  opp. 
Fort  Howard,  i.  e,,  where  Green  Bay  now  is.  6.  On  the  left  bank,  nearly  opp, 
present  Green  Bay,  but  rather  nearer  Green  bay,  was  the  site  of  our  Fort  How- 
ard, which  flourished  say  60  years  ago,  and  bequeathed  the  name  to  the  town  of 
Howard  or  Fort  Howard,  now  opposite  Green  Bay.  On  the  left  bank  higher 
up,  opp.  Depere,  is  a  town  called  Nicollet,  no  doubt  a  belated  bud  of  promise, 
as  no  such  place  appears  on  maps  of  25  years  ago.  7.  None  of  the  foregoing 
localities  or  establishments  on  Fox  r.  must  be  confounded  with  the  recent  out- 
growth called  Bay  Settlement,  which  is  out  on  the  S.  E.  shore  of  Green  bay, 
toward  Point  Sable. 

*  Kakalin  and  Konimee  of  the  above  text,  also  Cockien  of  p.  295,  are  three 
forms  of  one  word  which  has  other  curious  shapes.  Featherstonhaugh  I, 
p.  162,  speaks  of  rapids  "  called  in  the  Menominie  tongue  Kawkawnin,  literally 
'  can't  get  up,'  "  and  says  that  the  voyageurs  make  it  Cocolo.  Suter's  text  has 
Kankarma  ;  his  map,  Kankana.  Present  usage  favors  Kaukauna  :  so  G.  L.  O. 
maps,  railroad  folders,  etc.  With  the  qualifying  terms  Petit  and  Grand,  or  Lit- 
tle and  Great,  etc.,  the  word  denotes  different  places  and  things  on  the  river  ; 
J.  e. ,  certain  lower  and  upper  rapids  themselves,  together  with  certain  settle- 
ments at  or  near  each  of  these  obstructions  to  navigation.  Petit  Kakalin, 
Petite  chute.  Little  Konimee,  Little  shoot,  Little  rapids,  designated  the  lower 
rapids  ;  and  the  town  6  m.  above  Depere  received  the  name  of  Little  Rapids 
or  Little  Kaukauna.  Some  miles  above  this  place  is  now  Wrightstown,  on  the 
right  or  E.  bank  of  Fox  r.  Between  Little  Kaukauna  and  Wrightstown  are 
obstructions  in  the  river  which  are  or  were  called  Rapides  Croches,  from  their 
crookedness.  All  the  foregoing  are  in  present  Brown  Co.  Passing  to  Outag- 
amie Co. ,  we  find  what  Dickson  called  the  fall  of  Grand  Konimee,  and  others 
knew  as  Grand  Kakalin.  Grand  chute,  etc.     This  is  now  simply  styled  Kau- 


'liil 


I  ill 

ilil 


111 


■f*^n!^^!HBP«H 


300 


LOWER  FOX  RIVER— LAKE  WINNEBAGO. 


even  and  rocky.  There  is  a  fall  of  about  ten  feet,  which  ob- 
structs the  navigation.  For  three  leagues  higher  are  almost 
continual  rapids,  until  the  fall  of  Grand  Konimee  [vicinity 
of  present  Kaukauna],  about  five  feet  high.  Above  this,  the 
river  opens  into  a  small  lake,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  strong 
rapid,  called  Puant's  rapid  [now  Winnebago  rapids],  which 
issues  from  a  lake  of  that  name  [«".  e.,  Lake  Winnebago,  in 
Winnebago  Co.'].  This  lake  is  10  leagues  long,  and  from 
two  to  three  wide.  At  its  entrance  [where  are  now 
Menasha  and  Neenah,  Winnebago  Co.]  is  another  Puant 

kauna  falls,  without  any  qualifying  term ;  and  the  town  there  is  Kaukauna 
Falls.  Above  Kaukauna  falls  and  town,  say  2  or  3  m.,  are  rapids  called  Little 
chute  (duplicating  a  different  application  of  the  name),  and  within  a  mile  of 
them  are  others  known  as  Cedar  rapids.  In  this  vicinity  is  also  the  town  of 
Little  Chute,  7  or  7^  m.  below  Appleton,  seat  of  Outagamie  Co.  From  Apple- 
ton  we  pass  into  Winnebago  Co.,  and  it  is  on'.y  6  or  8  m.  to  where  Dickson  says 
"  the  river  opens  into  a  small  lake," «.  e..  Lake  Winnebago  discharges  into  Lower 
Fox  r.  This  outlet  is  by  two  channels,  N.  and  S.,  separated  by  Doty  or  t)oty's 
isl. ;  here  are  the  Puant,  or,  as  now  known,  Winnebago  rapids ;  here  was  the 
first  Puant  or  Winnebago  village  ;  here  are  now  the  cities  of  Menasha  on  the  N. 
channel,  and  Neenah  on  the  S.  channel.  The  rapids  are  strongest  in  the  latter. 
*  Formerly  Lac  des  Puans  or  des  Puants,  Stinkers'  1.,  etc.  This  is  the  large 
body  of  water  in  Winnebago,  Calumet,  and  Fond  Du  Lac  cos.,  35  m.  long,  9  to 
14  m.  wide,  and  12  to  25  feet  deep,  thus  being  an  extensive  overflow  of  Fox  r., 
which  enters  at  Oshkosh,  Winnebago  Co.,  about  the  middle  of  the  W.  side  of 
the  lake,  and  leaves  by  Neenah  and  Mena-^ha,  at  the  N.  W.  corner.  The  dis- 
tance between  these  points,  wiiich  wm  the  usual  canoe  traverse,  is  15^  m. 
There  is  a  small  island  in  this  distance,  known  by  the  name  of  Garlic,  which 
Featherstonhaugh  calls  Hotwater,  from  a  droll  incident  he  describes,  I.  p.  174. 
The  Puant  village  which  Dickson  mentions  as  being  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
lake  was  at  or  near  present  Fond  Du  Lac,  the  county  seat,  and  one  of  well 
known  places  in  Wisconsin.  Dickson's  midway  "  Fols  Avoine  "  village  was  the 
Menomonee  settlement  on  the  E.  side  of  the  lake,  in  Calumet  Co.  (Stockbridge 
and  Brotherton  Res.).  Lake  Winnebago  conveniently  divides  Fox  r.  into  the 
Upper  Fox,  which  runs  into  it,  and  the  Lower  Fox,  which  runs  out  of  it  into 
Green  bay  ;  it  also  acts  as  a  sort  of  reservoir  or  regulator  to  prevent  freshets  in 
the  Lower  Fox.  The  western  shore  is  now  s'Kirted  with  railroads  all  the  way 
from  Menasha  to  Fond  du  Lac,  and  various  towns  are  strung  along  this  distance. 
Just  before  Fox  r.  falls  in,  it  suffers  dilatation  into  what  was  and  is  still  called 
Lac  Butte  des  Morts,  the  head  of  which  is  about  7  m.  from  Oshkr  h  ;  town  of 
the  same  cheerful  name  there  now.  In  this  vicinity  Loup  or  Wolf  r.  falls  into 
the  ^J'-'^tr  Fox,  after  passing  through  an  expansion  known  by  some  such  per- 
vei   >  "s  of  the  Chippewa  name  as  Pawmaygun,  Pauwaicun,  Poygan,  etc. 


LAKE  WINNEBAGO— UPPEX  FOX  RIVER. 


301 


ich  ob- 

almost 
vicinity 
;his,  the 
I  strong 
],  which 
bago,  in 
,nd  from 
ire    now 
;r  Puant 

s  Kaukauna 
called  little 
n  a  mile  of 
the  town  of 
From  Apple- 
Dickson  says 
es  into  Lower 
>oty  or  t)oty's 
here  was  the 
ishaontheN. 
t  in  the  latter, 
[lis  is  the  large 
m.  long,  9  t° 
low  of  Foxr., 
lie  W.  side  of 
ler.     The  dis- 
je,  is  15  J4  n». 
Garlic,  which 
bes,  I.  p.  174- 
)er  end  of  the 
id  one  of  well 
village  was  the 
(Stockbridge 
i-ox  r.  into  the 
out  of  it  into 
rent  freshets  in 
ds  all  the  way 
,g  this  distance, 
d  is  still  called 
,kr  h  ;  town  of 
olf  r.  falls  into 
some  such  per- 
gan,  etc.       , 


village,  of  about  the  same  number  of  lodges,  and  at  this 
end  is  a  small  river,  which,  with  the  interval  of  a  few 
portages,  communicates  with  Rock  river  [of  Wisconsin  and 
Illinois].  About  midway  between  the  two  Puant  villages  is 
a  Fols  Avoin  village,  on  the  south  [-east]  side  of  the  lake  [in 
Calumet  Co.],  of  50  or  60  men.  Five  leagues  from  the 
entrance  of  the  lake,  on  the  north  [-west]  side,  Fox  river 
falls  in  [at  Oshkosh,  Winnebago  Co.],  and  is  about  200 
yards  wide.  Ascending  two  leagues  higher,  is  a  small  Fols 
Avoin  village,  where  is  a  lake  [Lac  Butte  des  Morts]  more 
than  two  leagues  long ;  and  about  a  league  above  this  lake 
the  river  de  Loup  [Wolf  river,  after  flowing  through  Poygan 
lake]  joins  Fox  river  near  a  hill  [and  town]  called  the  But 
de  Mort  [Butte  des  Morts],  where  the  Fox  nation  were 
nearly  exterminated  by  the  French  and  Confederate  Indians. 
The  rivers  and  lakes  are,  at  certain  seasons,  full  of  wild  rice. 
The  country  on  the  borders  of  this  [Fox]  river  is  finely 
diversified  with  woods  and  prairies.  Any  quantity  of  hay 
may  be  made,  and  it  is  as  fine  a  country  for  raising  stock  as 
any  in  the  same  latitude  through  all  America.  From  the 
But  de  Mort  to  the  Lac  a  Puckway"  is  28  leagues.     Here 

'<'  This  is  easier  to  locate  than  to  tell  the  na^e  of.  It  is  that  dilatation  of 
Upper  Fox  r.  which  lies  mainly  in  Green  Lake  Co.,  and  for  some  Ii»tle  distance 
separates  this  from  Marquette  Co.  The  lake  is  14^  m.  long,  but  very  narrow. 
Rush  1.  would  be  the  English  translation  of  the  Indian  name,  a  few  of  the 
variants  of  which  are  Apachquay,  Apackaway,  Apukwa,  Puckaway,  Packaway, 
Pokeway,  Puckway,  Pacaua,  etc.  Before  this  notable  lake  was  reached,  the 
canoes  passed  the  mouth  of  Wolf  r.,  as  above  said  ;  of  Waukan  r.,  discharging 
from  a  certain  Rush  1.  in  Winnebago  Co.,  in  the  vicinity  of  places  called  Omri, 
Delhi,  and  Eureka  ;  a  couple  of  small  streams  at  and  near  Berlin,  Green  Lake 
Co.;  Puckegan  cr.,  the  discharge  of  Green  1.,  which  falls  in  at  Fiddler's 
(qu.  Fidler's  ?)  Bend,  on  the  S.;  near  this  White  r.,  on  the  N.;  present  site  of 
Princeton,  Green  Lake  Co.,  12^  m.  above  Fiddler's  Bend  ;  and  lastly  Mechan 
or  Mecan  r.,  whence  it  is  only  6  m.  to  Lake  Puckaway.  The  town  of  Marquette, 
Green  Lake  Co.,  is  on  the  lake  near  its  foot;  and  7  m.  above  its  head  is 
Montello,  seat  of  Marquette  Co.  A  stream  absurdly  called  Grand  r.  falls  in  on 
the  S.  between  Lake  Puckaway  and  Montello.  From  Montello  to  Packwaukee 
is  8  m.;  this  is  on  Boeuf,  Beef,  or  Buffalo  1.,  a  dilatation  of  the  river  like  Lake 
Puckaway,  but  not  so  wide.  There  was  an  old  French  fort  or  factory  here, 
whose  name  is  given  as  Ganville  (qu.  Bienville  ?).     The  "  forks  "  of  Fox  r.  of 


M 
ii'l 


lill 


302 


FOX-WISCONSIN  PORTAGE. 


is  another  Puant  village,  of  seven  or  eight  large  lodges. 
This  lake  is  three  leagues  long ;  four  leagues  above  it  Lac 
de  Bceuf  [Buffalo  lake]  begins,  which  is  also  four  leagues 
long  ;  this  is  full  of  wild  rice,  and  has  a  great  many  fowl  in 
their  season.  From  Lac  de  Bceuf  to  the  forks  [confluence 
of  the  Necha  river  with  Fox  river],  which  is  five  leagues 
from  the  portage  of  the  Ouiscousing,  and  lo  leagues  above 
the  forks  [??],  is  a  very  small  lake,  called  Lac  Vaseux 
[Muddy  lake],  so  choked  with  wild  rice  as  to  render  it 
almost  impassable.  The  [Fox]  river,  although  very  wind- 
ing, becomes  more  and  more  serpentine  on  approaching  the 
portage,  and  narrows  so  much  as  almost  to  prevent  the  use  of 
oars.  The  length  of  the  portage  to  the  Ouiscousing  [river, 
at  present  town  of  Portage,  Columbia  Co.]  is  two  miles ; 
but  when  the  waters  are  high,  canoes  and  boats  pass  over 
loaded.  Here  the  waters  at  that  time  separate,  one  part 
going  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the  other  to  that  of  St. 
Lawrence.  In  wet  seasons  the  po«'tage  road  is  very  bad, 
the  soil  being  of  a  swampy  nature.  There  is  for  nearly  half- 
way a  kind  of  natural  canal,  which  is  sometimes  used,  and 
I  think  a  canal  between  the  two  rivers  might  be  easily  cut 
[Wis.  Cent.,  and  C,  M,,  and  St.  P.  R.  R.  to  Portage  now]. 
The  expense  at  present  attending  the  transport  is  one-third 
of  a  dollar  per  cwt.;  for  a  canoe  $5  and  a  boat  $8  ;  this  is 
not  cash,  but  in  goods  at  the  rate  of  200  per  cent,  on  the 

which  Dickson  speaks  is  the  confluence  of  Necha  r. ;  but  there  seems  to  be 
some  copyist's  mistake  about  the  situation  of  his  Lac  Vaseux  "  ten  leagues 
above  the  forks  ";  for  there  is  no  28^  m.  of  the  river  left.  Lac  Vaseux  of  tlie 
text,  otherwise  known  as  Muddy,  Rice,  and  Manomin,  immediately  succeeds 
Buffalo  1.,  being  below  (north  of)  Moundville  and  Roslin  or  Port  Hope.  It 
seems  to  be  reckoned  a  part  of  Lake  Buffalo,  for  the  distance  hence  to  the  Wis- 
consin r.  is  given  as  only  about  14  m.  The  canal  which  Dickson  recommends 
was  long  .-ince  cut,  with  a  length  of  2^  m.  to  Portage,  seat  of  Columbia  Co. 
From  this  place  along  the  Wisconsin  r.  to  the  Mississippi,  given  by  Dickson 
and  repeated  by  Long  as  60  leagues=i65  m.,  is  112  m.  I  have  not  the  clew 
to  the  i^xact  location  of  Dickson's  Detour  du  Pin  or  Pine  Bend  ;  but  I  imagine 
it  was  tbout  the  situation  of  Lone  Rock,  Richland  Co.,  above  the  mouth  of 
Pine  r.,  and  below  the  place  that  Mr.  Whitney  named  Helena,  when  he  had  his 
curious  shot-tower  there  some  60  years  ago. 


I'Hl 


WISCONSIN  RIVER— PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN. 


303 


ye  lodges. 
,ve  it  Lac 
ar  leagues 
.ny  fowl  in 
confluence 
ve  leagues 
gues  above 
ac  Vaseux 
)  render  it 
very  wind- 
jaching  the 
it  the  use  of 
ising  [river, 
two  miles; 
s  pass  over 
te,  one  part 
that  of  St. 
is  very  bad, 
•  nearly  half- 
es  used,  and 
je  easily  cut 
irtage  now]. 

is  one-third 
It  $8  ;  this  is 

cent,  on  the 

^re  seems  to  be 
IX  "  ten  leagues 
AC  Vaseux  of  the 
Idiately  succeeds 
Iport  Hope.     It 
(ence  to  the  Wis- 
|son  recommends 
if  Columbia  Co. 
fven  by  Dickson 
ire  not  the  clew 
I ;  but  I  imagine 
le  the  mouth  of 
Iwhen  he  had  his 


sterling.  There  are  at  present  two  white  men  who  have 
establishments  there ;  they  are  much  incommoded  by  the 
Puants  of  Rock  river,  who  are  troublesome  visitors.  The 
Ouiscousing  is  a  large  river;  its  bottom  sandy,  full  of 
islands  and  sand-bars  during  the  summer  season.  The  navi- 
gation is  difficult  even  for  canoes,  owing  to  the  lowness  of 
the  water.  From  the  portage  to  its  confluence  with  the 
Mississippi  is  60  leagues  [about  40  leagues — 112  miles]. 
The  Saques  and  Reynards  formerly  lived  on  its  banks, 
but  were  driven  off  by  the  Sauteaux.  They  were  accus- 
tomed to  raise  a  great  deal  of  corn  and  beans,  the  soil 
being  excellent.  Opposite  the  Detour  de  Pin,  halfway 
from  the  portage,  on  the  south  side,  are  lead  mines,  said  to 
be  the  best  in  any  part  of  the  country,  and  to  be  wrought 
with  great  ease.  Boats  of  more  than  four  tons  are  im- 
proper for  the  communication  between  the  Mississippi  and 
Michilimackinac."    (  [Colonel  Robert]  Dickson.) 

The  present  village  of  Prairie  des  Chiens  was  first  settled 
in  the  year  1783,  and  the  first  settlers  were  Mr.  Giard,  Mr. 
Antaya,  and  Mr.  Dubuque.  The  old  village  is  about  a 
mile  below  the  present  one,  and  existed  during  the  time 
the  French  were  possessed  of  the  country.  It  derives  its 
name  from  a  family  of  Reynards  who  formerly  lived  there, 
distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  Dogs.  The  present 
village  was  settled  under  the  English  government,  and  the 
ground  was  purchased  from  the  Reynard  Indians.  It  is 
situated  about  one  league  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ouis- 
cousing river.  On  the  E.  bank  of  the  river  there  is  a  small 
pond  or  marsh  which  runs  parallel  to  the  river  in  the  rear  of 
the  town,  which,  in  front  of  the  marsh,  consists  of  18  dwell- 
ing-houses, in  two  streets;  16  in  Front  Street  and  two  in 
First  Street.  In  the  rear  of  the  pond  are  eight  dwelling- 
houses  ;  part  of  the  houses  are  framed,  and  in  place  of 
weatherboard! ng  there  are  small  logs  let  into  mortises  made 
in  the  uprights,  joined  close,  daubed  on  the  outside  with 
clay,   and   handsomely  whitewashed   within.     The   inside 


I  ! 


iii- 


hi 


304 


PRAIRIE  DU   CHIEN. 


1! 


il 


furniture  of  their  houses  is  decent  and,  indeed,  in  those  of 
the  most  wealthy  displays  a  degree  of  elegance  and  taste. 

There  are  eight  houses  scattered  round  the  country,  at 
the  distance  of  one,  two,  three,  and  five  miles :  also,  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  Mississippi  [now  Bloody  Run,  on  which  is 
N.  McGregor,  Clayton  Co.,  la.]  three  houses,  situated  on  a 
small  stream  called  Giards  [or  Giard's]  river,  making,  in  the 
village  and  vicinity,  37  houses,  which  it  will  not  be  too 
much  to  calculate  at  10  persons  each.  The  population 
would  thus  be  370  souls ;  but  this  calculation  will  not  answer 
for  the  spring  or  autumn,  as  there  are  then,  at  least,  500  or 
600  white  persons.  This  is  owing  to  the  concourse  of  traders 
and  their  engagees  from  Michilimackinac  and  other  parts, 
who  make  this  their  last  stage  previous  to  launching  into 
the  savage  wilderness.  They  again  meet  here  in  the  spring, 
on  their  return  from  their  wintering-grounds,  accompanied  by 
300  or  400  Indians,  when  they  hold  a  fair;  the  one  disposes 
of  remnants  of  goods,  and  the  others  reserved  peltries.  It  is 
astonishing  that  there  are  not  more  murders  and  affrays  at 
this  place,  where  meets  such  an  heterogeneous  mass  to  trade, 
the  use  of  spirituous  liquors  being  in  no  manner  restricted  ; 
but  since  the  American  has  become  known,  such  accidents 
are  much  less  frequent  than  formerly.  The  prairie  on  which 
the  village  is  situated  is  bounded  in  the  rear  by  high  bald 
hills.  It  is  from  one  mile  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from 
the  river,  and  extends  about  eight  miles  from  the  Missis- 
sippi, to  where  it  strikes  the  Ouiscousing  at  the  Petit  Grey, 
which  bears  from  the  village  S.  E.  by  E. 

If  the  marsh  before  spoken  of  were  drained,  which  might 
be  easily  done,  I  am  of  the  opinion  it  would  render  healthy 
the  situation  of  the  prairie,  which  now  subjects  its  inhabit- 
ants to  intermitting  fevers  in  the  spring  and  autumn. 

There  are  a  few  gentlemen  residing  at  the  Prairie  des 
Chiens,  and  many  others  claiming  that  appellation  ;  but  the 
rivalship  of  the  Indian  trade  occasions  them  to  be  guilty  of 
acts  at  their  wintering-grounds  which  they  would  blush  to 
be  thought  guilty  of  in  the  civilized  world.     They  possess 


PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN  TO  LAKE  PEPIN. 


305 


lose  of 
taste, 
ntry,  at 
,  on  the 
ivhich  is 
ted  on  a 
g,  in  the 
t  be  too 
jpulation 
ot  answer 
st,  500  or 
of  traders 
her  parts, 
ihing  into 
:he  spring, 
ipanied  by 
le  disposes 
ries.     It  IS 
i  affrays  at 
iss  to  trade, 
restricted ; 
1  accidents 
ie  on  which 
high  bald 
mile  from 
the  Missis- 
Petit  Grey, 

hich  might 
der  healthy 
its  inhabit- 
jmn. 

Prairie  des 
3n ;  but  the 
be  guilty  of 
Id  blush  to 
hey  possess 


the  spirit  of  generosity  and  hospitality  in  an  eminent  degree, 
but  this  is  the  leading  feature  in  the  character  of  frontier 
inhabitants.  Their  mode  of  living  has  obliged  them  to  have 
transient  connection  with  the  Indian  women  ;  and  what  was 
at  first  policy  is  now  so  confirmed  by  habit  and  inclination 
that  it  is  become  the  ruling  practice  of  the  traders,  with 
few  exceptions;  in  fact,  almost  one-half  the  inhabitants 
under  20  years  have  the  blood  of  the  aborigines  in  their 
veins. 

From  this  village  to  Lake  Pepin  we  have,  on  the  W.  shore 
[Iowa  and  Minnesota],  first  Yellow  river  [present  name  ;  at 
its  mouth  Council  Hill,  Allamakee  Co.,  la.],  of  about  20 
yards  wide,  bearing  from  the  Mississippi  nearly  due  W.; 
second,  the  [Upper]  Iowa  river,  about  100  yards  wide,  bear- 
ing from  the  Mississippi  about  N.  W.;  third,  the  Racine 
[Root]  river,  about  20  yards  wide,  bearing  from  the  Missis- 
sippi nearly  W.,  and  navigable  for  canoes  60  miles ;  fourth, 
the  rivers  Embarra  [Embarras,  or  Zumbro]  and  Lean  Claire 
[I'Eau  Claire,  now  White  Water  or  Minneiska],  which  join 
their  waters  just  as  they  form  a  confluence  with  the  Missis- 
sippi, are  about  60  yards  wide,  and  bear  nearly  S.  W. 

On  the  E.  shore  [Wisconsin],  in  the  same  distance,  is  the 
river  de  la  Prairie  la  Cross  [La  Crosse  river],  which  empties 
into  the  Mississippi  at  the  head  of  the  prairie  of  that  name. 
It  is  about  20  yards  wide,  and  bears  N.  N.  W.  We  then 
meet  with  the  Black  [present  name]  river,  a  very  considera- 
ble stream  about  200  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  on  which  the 
traders  frequently  winter  with  the  Puants  and  Fols  Avoins. 
Next  we  pass  the  river  of  the  Montaigne  qui  Trompes  dans 
I'Eau  [Rivifere  de  la  Montague  qui  Trempe  k  I'Eau,  now 
Trempealeau  river],  a  small  stream  in  the  rear  of  the  hill  of 
that  name.  Then  we  find  the  Riviere  au  Bceuf  [Buffalo  river], 
about  30  yards  wide,  bearing  N.  by  W.  At  the  entrance  of 
Lake  Pepin,  on  the  E.  shore,  joins  the  Sauteaux  [Chippewa] 
river,  which  is  at  least  half  a  mile  wide,  and  appears  to  be  a 
deep  and  majestic  stream.  It  bears  from  the  Mississippi 
nearly  due  N.     This  river  is  in  size  and  course,  for  some 


::1 


lit 


:^fm 


m 


3o6 


BY  CHIPPEWA  RIVER  TO  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


distance  up,  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from  the  Ouiscou* 
sing;  it  has  a  communication  with  Montreal  river  by  a 
short  portage,  and  by  this  river  with  Lake  Superior."  The 
agents  of  the  N.  W.  Company  supply  the  Fols  A;'oin  Sau- 
teaux  who  reside  at  the  head  of  this  river ;  and  ti.ose  of 
Michilimackinac,  the  Sioux  who  hunt  on  its  lower  waters. 

In  this  division  of  the  Mississippi  the  shores  are  more 
than  three-fourths  prairie  on  both  sides,  or,  more  properly 
speaking,  bald  hills  which,  instead  of  running  parallel  with 
the  river,  form  a  continual  succession  of  high  perpendicular 
cliffs  and  low  valleys ;  they  appear  to  head  on  the  river,  and 
to  traverse  the  country  in  an  angular  direction.  Those 
hills  and  valleys  give  rise  to  some  of  the  most  sublime  and 
romantic  views  I  ever  saw.  But  this  irregular  scenery  is 
sometimes  interrupted  by  a  wide  extended  plain  which 
brings  to  mind  the  verdant  lawn  of  civilized  life,  and  would 

"  The  Montreal  or  Kawasidjiwong  r.  is  a  small  stream  which  separates  Wis- 
consin from  Michigan  for  some  little  distance,  and  falls  into  Lake  Superior  at 
Oronto  bay,  E.  of  Point  Clinton.  The  connection  with  Sauteur  or  Chippewa  r., 
of  which  Pike  speaks,  was  made  by  portages  from  the  main  E.  fork  of  the  Chip- 
pewa— that  is.  from  Manidowish,  Flambeau,  or  Torch  r.  But  we  should  note 
here  that  there  was  more  than  one  recognized  route  by  way  of  the  Chippewa 
from  the  Mississippi  to  Lake  Superior,  and  in  Carver's  case,  for  example,  con- 
fusion has  arisen  in  consequence.  Thus,  some  say  that  Carver  left  the  Missis- 
sippi by  way  of  Chippewa  r.  This  is  true  ;  but  he  did  not  reach  Lake  Superior 
by  way  of  Flambeau  r.  and  Montreal  r.  Observing  this,  some  say  he  reached 
Lake  Superior  by  way  of  the  St.  Croix  and  the  river  lie  calls  Goddard's.  This  is 
true  ;  but  he  did  not  leave  the  Mississippi  by  St.  Croix  r.  In  June,  1767,  Carver 
came  from  Prairie  du  Chien  up  the  Miss.  r.  to  the  Chippewa  ;  he  went  up  this  for 
the  Ottawaw  lakes,  as  he  calls  the  present  Lac  Court  Oreilles  and  some  lesser 
ones  close  by  ;  visited  the  Chippewa  town  whence  the  river  took  its  name,  he 
says,  "  near  the  heads  of  this  river  ;  ...  In  July  I  left  this  town,  and  having 
crossed  a  number  of  small  lakes  and  carrying  places  that  intervened,  came  to  a 
head  branch  of  the  river  St.  Croix.  This  branch  I  descended  to  a  fork,  and 
then  ascended  another  to  its  source.  On  both  these  rivers  I  discovered  several 
mines  of  virgin  copper,  which  was  as  pure  as  that  found  in  any  other  country. 
Here  I  came  to  a  small  brook,"  which  by  confluence  of  others  soun  "  increased 
to  a  most  rapid  river,  which  we  descended  till  it  entered  into  Lake  Superior.  .  . 
This  river  I  named  .  .  .  Goddard's  River,"  Trav.,  ed.  1796,  pp.  66,67.  A 
small  river  west  of  Goddard's  Carver  named  Strawberry  r.,  "from  the  great 
number  of  strawberries  of  a  good  size  and  flavor  that  grew  on  its  banks." 


TREMPEALEAU— LAKE   PEPIN. 


307 


luiscou- 
ir  by  a 
"    The 
)in  Sau- 
:i.ose  of 
iraters. 
re  more 
properly 
lUel  with 
endicular 
river,  and 
1,    Those 
blime  and 
scenery  is 
lin   which 
and  would 

separates  Wis- 
ke  Superior  at 
r  Chippewa  r., 
rk  of  the  Chip- 
e  should  note 
the  Chippewa 
example,  con- 
left  the  Missis- 
Lake  Superior 
5ay  he  reached 
lard's.     This  is 
e,  1767,  Carver 
vent  up  this  for 
nd  some  lesser 
,k  its  name,  he 
■^wn,  and  having 
ined,  came  to  a 
to  a  fork,  and 
icovered  several 
other  country. 
;oon  "  increased 
LC  Superior.  .  • 
|,  pp.  66, 67.    A 
from  the  great 
Is  banks." 


almost  induce  the  traveler  to  imagine  himself  in  the  center 
of  a  highly  cultivated  plantation.  The  timber  of  this  divi- 
sion is  generally  birch,  elm,  and  cottonwood ;  all  the  cliffs 
being  bordered  by  cedar. 

The  navigation  unto  [Upper]  Iowa  river  is  good,  but 
thence  to  the  Sauteaux  river  is  very  much  obstructed  by 
islands ;  in  some  places  the  Mississippi  is  uncommonly  wide, 
and  divided  into  many  small  channels  which  from  the  cliffs 
appear  like  so  many  distinct  rivers,  winding  in  a  parallel 
course  through  the  same  immense  valley.  But  there  are 
few  sand-bars  in  those  narrow  channels ;  the  soil  being  rich, 
the  water  cuts  through  it  with  facility. 

Lev  Montaigne  qui  Trompe  dans  I'Eau  stands  in  the  Mis- 
sissippi near  the  E.  shore,  about  50  miles  below  the  Sauteaux 
river,  and  is  about  two  miles  in  circumference,  with  an  ele- 
vation of  200  feet,  covered  with  timber.  There  is  a  small 
[Trempealeau :  see  note  ",  pp.  52-54]  river  which  empties 
into  the  Mississippi  in  the  rear  of  the  mountain,  which  I 
conceive  once  bounded  the  mountain  on  the  lower  side,  and 
the  Mississippi  on  the  upper,  when  the  mountain  was 
joined  to  the  main  by  a  neck  of  low  prairie  ground,  which 
in  time  was  worn  away  by  the  spring  freshets  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  thus  formed  an  island  of  this  celebrated 
mountain. 

Lake  Pepin,  so  called  by  the  French,  appears  to  be  only 
an  expansion  of  the  Mississippi.  It  commences  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Sauteaux,  and  bears  N.  55°  W.  12  miles  to  Point 
de  Sable,  which  is  a  neck  of  land  making  out  about  one 
mile  into  the  lake  from  the  W.  shore,  and  is  the  narrowest 
part  of  the  lake.  From  here  to  the  upper  end  the  course  is 
nearly  due  W.  about  10  miles,  making  its  whole  length  22 
miles,  and  from  4  to  i  ^  miles  in  width ;  the  broadest  part 
being  in  the  bay  below  Point  de  Sable.  This  is  a  beautiful 
place  ;  the  contrast  of  the  Mississippi  full  of  islands,  and  the 
lake  with  not  one  in  its  whole  extent,  gives  more  force  to 
the  grandeur  of  the  scene.  The  French,  under  the  govern- 
ment of  M.  Frontenac,  drove  the  Reynards  or  Ottaquamies 


'M' 


! 


; 

f 


if 
I 


u 


Wi' 


yf 


308        RED  WING— CANNON  AND   ST.  CROIX  RIVERS. 

[Outagamas,  etc.]  from  the  Ouiscousing,  pursued  them  up 
the  Mississippi,  and,  as  a  barrier,  built  a  stockade  [Fort 
Beauharnois?]  on  Lake  Pepin  on  the  W.  shore,  just  below 
Point  de  Sable.  As  was  generally  the  case  with  that  nation, 
they  blended  the  military  and  mercantile  professions,  by 
making  their  fort  a  factory  for  the  Sioux.  The  lake,  at  the 
upper  end,  is  three  fathoms  deep ;  but  this,  I  am  informed, 
is  its  shoalest  part.  From  [Upper]  Iowa  river  to  the  head 
of  Lake  Pepin,  elk  are  the  prevailing  species  of  wild  game, 
with  some  deer  and  a  few  bear. 

From  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin  for  about  12  miles,  to 
Cannon  river,  the  Mississippi  is  branched  out  into  many 
channels,  and  its  bosom  covered  with  numerous  islands. 
There  is  a  hill  on  the  W.  shore  [at  Red  Wing],  about  six 
miles  above  the  lake,  called  the  Grange  [la  Grange,  the  Barn], 
from  the  summit  of  which  you  have  one  of  the  most  delight- 
ful  prospects  in  nature.  When  turning  your  face  to  the  E. 
you  have  the  river  winding  in  three  [South,  Middle,  and 
North]  channels  at  your  feet ;  on  your  right  the  extensive 
bosom  of  the  lake,  bounded  by  its  chain  of  hills ;  in  front, 
over  the  Mississippi,  a  wide  extended  prairie ;  on  the  left 
the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  open  to  view  quite  to  the  St. 
Croix;  and  partly  in  your  rear,  the  valley  through  which 
passes  Riviere  au  Canon.  When  I  viewed  it,  on  one  of  the 
islands  below  appeared  the  spotted  lodges  of  Red  Wing's 
band  of  Sioux.  The  white  tents  of  the  traders  and  my 
soldiers,  and  three  flags  of  the  United  States  waving  on  the 
water,  gave  a  contrast  to  the  still  and  lifeless  wilderness 
around  and  increased  the  pleasure  of  the  prospect. 

From  Cannon  river  io  the  St.  Croix,  the  Mississippi  e^ 
dently  becomes  narrower,  and  the  navigation  les?  f^''  1 

by  islands.     St.  Croix  river  joins  the  Mississippi  c  E., 

and  bears  from  the  latter  almost  due  N.  It  is  on  o  yards 
wide  at  its  mouth,  but  500  yards  up  commences  [lowcj 
Lake  St.  Croix,  which  is  from  i  ^  to  3  miles  wide,  and  '> 
long.  This  river  communicates  with  Lake  Superior  by  the 
Burnt  river,  by  a  portage  of  half  a  mile  only,  and  in  its  whole 


ST.  CROIX  AND  ST.  PIERRE   RIVERS. 


309 


hem  up 
e  [Fort 
t  below 
t  nation, 
iions,  by 
:e,  at  the 
nformed, 
the  head 
ild  game, 

miles,  to 
nto  many 
IS  islands, 
about  six 
,  the  Barn], 
3st  delight- 
;  to  the  E. 
/liddle,  and 
e  extensive 
B ;  in  front, 
on  the  left 
to  the  St. 
lUgh  which 
one  of  the 
ed  Wing's 
:rs  and  my 
Lving  on  the 
Is  wilderness 

let. 
isissippi  c 

,s  oh  1 

n       o  yards 

es  l'  ^w^' ' 

ide,  and  0^ 

lerior  by  the 

in  its  whole 


extent  has  not  one  fall  or  rapid  worthy  of  notice."  This, 
with  the  mildness  of  its  current,  and  its  other  advantages, 
render  it  by  far  the  most  preferable  communication  which 
can  be  had  with  the  N.  W.  from  this  part  of  our  territories. 
Its  upper  waters  are  inhabited  by  the  Fols  Avoins  and  Sau- 
teaux,  who  are  supplied  by  the  agents  of  the  North  West 
Company;  and  its  lower  division,  by  the  Sioux  and  their 
traders. 

The  Mississippi  from  Cannon  river  is  bounded  on  the  E. 
by  high  ridges,  but  the  left  is  low  ground.  The  timber  is 
generally  ash  and  maple,  except  the  cedar  of  the  cliffs. 
From  the  St.  Croix  to  the  St.  Peters  the  Mississippi  is  col- 
lected into  a  narrow  compass ;  I  crossed  it  £it  one  place  with 

"  Pike  was  sadly  misinformed  on  this  point.  No  place  on  the  river  is  better 
known  than  St.  Croix  falls,  above  Osceola  Mills,  Polk  Co.,  Wis.,  and  Franco- 
nia,  Chisago  Co.,  Minn.,  where  the  descent  is  quoted  at  5  feet  in  300  yards. 
Higher  up,  the  river  has  many  rapids — toward  its  head  so  many  that  Nicollet's 
m.ip  legends  "  Succession  of  Rapids";  Schoolcraft's  marks  about  a  dozen  ;  Lieut. 
Allen,  when  abandoned  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  encountered  "  almost  interminable 
rapids";  La  Salle  cited  Du  Luth  for  "  forty  leagues  of  rapids,"  in  his  letter 
from  Fort  Frontenac,  Aug.  22d,  l682  ;  and  Hennepin  called  the  St.  Croix  "a 
river  full  of  rapids."  They  are  most  numerous  and  most  nearly  continuous  above 
Yellow  and  Namakagon  rivers,  two  of  the  principal  branches  of  the  Upper  St. 
Croix,  both  of  wliich  drain  from  the  region  about  the  Ottawa  lakes  and  others 
iu  Sawyer  and  Washburn  cos..  Wis.  Pike's  Burnt  r.  is  supposed  to  be  the 
same  as  Carver's  Goddard  r. ;  it  is  also  called  Burnt  Wood  r.,  from  the  F.  Bois 
BrQle,  and  the  latter  name  is  still  in  use.  Burnt  r.  is  called  by  Nicollet  Wissa- 
kude  and  by  others  Misacoda — a  name  no  doubt  the  same  as  Nimissakouat, 
Nemitsakouat,  Nissipikouet,  etc.,  de  I'ancien  regime ;  on  Fninquelin's  map, 
1688,  it  stands  Neouoasicoton.  This  last  is  a  specially  notable  case,  as  Franque- 
lin  marks  "  Fort  St.  Croix  "  and  "  Portage  "  near  the  head  of  his  river  at  a  cer- 
tain "  Lac  de  la  Providence"  in  which  he  heads  his  "  R.  de  la  Magdelaine"; 
for  these  are  the  Upper  St.  Croix  1.  and  the  St.  Croix  r.  (This  post  was 
probably  established  by  Du  Luth  before  1684  or  1685  ;  he  had  been  in  Paris  in 
1683  ;  3t  Montreal,  Quebec,  etc.,  1682  and  1681  ;  and  in  June,  1680,  made  the 
ilois  Briile-St.  Croix  trip  from  Lake  Superior  to  the  Mississippi.)  Franquelin's 
early  map,  16S3-84,  is  said  to  be  the  first  to  delineate  the  Bois  Briile-St.  Croix 
route  :  this  shows  R.  de  la  Magdelaine  connecting  by  Lac  de  la  Providence 
with  R.  Neouaisicoton,  but  no  Fort  St.  Croix  is  there  marked.  This  river  is 
said  well  en' ''rrh  to  head  in  this  lake;  but  more  precisely,  its  sources  are  in 
the  feeders  this  lake.  One  of  these,  which  is  situated  on  a  pine  ridge 
a  couple  of  miles  off,  offers  the  always  interesting,  though  not  very  rare  case 


1^ 


310 


FALLS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY. 


40  strokes  of  my  oars,"  and  the  navigation  is  very  good. 
The  E.  bank  is  generally  bounded  by  the  river  ridges,  but 
the  W.  sometimes  by  timbered  bottom  or  prairie.  The 
timber  is  generally  maple,  sugar-tree,  and  ash.  About  20 
miles  below  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters,  on  the  E.  shore, 
at  a  place  called  the  Grand  Morais  [Marais,  Big  Marsh,  now 
Pig's  Eye  marsh  or  lake],  is  situated  Petit  Corbeau's  village 
of  1 1  log  houses.  For  a  description  of  the  St.  Peters  see 
the  chart  herewith. 

From  the  St.  Peters  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  the 
river  is  contracted  between  high  hills,  and  is  one  continual 
rapid  or  fall,  the  bottom  being  covered  with  rocks  which  in 


>^    - 


of  a  sheet  of  water  running  two  ways ;  for  this  small  Source  1.,  as  it  is 
called,  discharges  one  way  into  the  St.  Croix  stream,  hence  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  and  the  other  way  into  Burnt  r. ,  which  takes  water  to  Lake  Superior 
and  finally  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  The  Burnt  is  navigable,  though  much 
obstructed  with  shoals,  rapids,  and  falls ;  it  runs  in  the  main  northward,  near 
the  E.  border  of  Douglas  Co.  (named  for  Stephen  A.  Douglas),  and  falls  into 
the  Kichi  Gummi,  Sea  of  the  North,  West  Sea,  Grand  Lac  (Champlain's  Voy., 
1632,  map),  Lac  de  Conde,  Lac  de  Tracy,  Lac  Superieur,  Lacus  Superior  (De 
Creux,  1664,  map),  Lake  Algona,  etc.  There  were  Chippewa  villages  along 
nearly  the  whole  line  of  both  the  rivers  at  various  points,  including  one  on  an 
island  in  the  Upper  St.  Croix  1.  Islands  and  peninsulas  in  lakes  were  always 
favorite  sites,  for  in  such  cases  these  Indians  enjoyed  some  additional  immunity 
from  the  Sioux  in  what  we  may  style  their  "moated  granges."  On  the  St. 
Croix  r.,  low  down,  was  the  Chippewa- '^ioux  boundary  line,  marked  for  some 
years  by  cedar  trees  which  stood  there  a  few  miles  below  St.  Croix  falls :  see 
note  ",  p.  loi. 

"Keating,  I.  1824,  p.  287,  cites  Long's  MS.  1817,  fol.  12,  that  Major 
Long's  "  boat  crossed  it,  from  a  dead  start,  in  16  strokes."  Referring  to  note  ", 
p.  70,  for  some  historical  remarks  on  St.  Pierre's  r.,  I  wish  to  add  here  that 
this  remarkable  stream  was  at  one  period  the  main  course  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  evidence  of  the  rocks  supports  the  opinion  that  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony 
were  once  opposite  the  position  of  Fort  Snelling.  The  Mississippi  above  the 
mouth  of  St.  Pierre's  differs  in  various  particulars  from  the  character  it  acquires 
below  that  point,  and  was  once  tributary  to  a  then  greater  stream.  This  cise 
does  not  ceem  to  have  attracted  the  atten  iou  ♦^o  which  it  became  entitled  after 
its  forcible  presentation  by  General  Wnrr'n.  It  is  not  so  well  marked  as  the 
obvious  case  of  the  Missouri  vs.  the  Mississippi,  in  which  there  is  no  question 
which  is  the  main  and  which  the  subsidiary  stream  ;  but  it  is  similar.  In  other 
words,  what  the  Mississippi  is  to  the  Missouri  above  St.  Louis,  that  the  Missis- 
sippi has  been  to  the  Minnesota  above  Fort  Snelling. 


FALLS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY — RUM  RIVER. 


3" 


ry  good. 
Iges,  but 
ie.    The 
\bo\xt  20 
E.  shore, 
arsh,  now 
ii's  village 
Peters  see 

thony  the 
;  continual 
:s  which  in 

;e   1.,  as  it  is 

0  the  Gulf  of 
Lake  Superior 
I,  though  much 
.orthward,  near 

and  falls  into 
implain's  Voy., 
IS  Superior  (De 

1  villages  along 
ling  one  on  an 
ces  were  always 
tional  immunity 
,"  On  the  St. 
jarked  for  some 
Croix  falls :  see 

12,  that  Major 
erring  to  note    , 
add  here  that 
..le  Mississippi. 
of  St.  Anthony 
ssippi  above  the 
[acter  it  acquires 
■am.     This  case 
le  entitled  after 
marked  as  the 
is  no  question 
tnilar.     In  other 
that  the  Missis- 


low  water  are  some  feet  aboVe  the  surface,  leaving  narrow 
channels  between  them.  The  rapidity  of  the  current  is 
likewise  much  augmented  by  the  numerous  small,  rocky 
islands  which  obstruct  the  navigation.  The  shores  have 
many  large  and  beautiful  springs  issuing  forth,  which  form 
small  cascades  as  they  tumble  over  the  cliffs  into  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  timber  is  generally  maple.  This  place  we  noted 
for  the  great  quantity  of  wild  fowl. 

As  I  ascended  the  Mississippi,  th'»  Falls  of  St.  Anthony 
did  not  strike  me  with  that  majestic  appearance  which  I  had 
been  taught  to  expect  from  the  descriptions  of  former  trav- 
elers. On  an  actual  survey  I  find  the  portage  to  be  260 
poles;  but  when  the  river  is  not  very  low,  boats  ascending 
maybe  put  in  31  poles  below,  at  a  large  cedar  tree;  this 
would  reduce  it  to  229  poles.  The  hill  over  which  the  port- 
age is  made  is  69  feet  in  ascent,  with  an  elevation  at  the 
point  of  debarkation  of  45°.  The  fall  of  the  water  between 
the  place  of  debarkation  and  reloading  is  58  feet ;  the  per- 
pendicular fall  of  the  shoot  is  16^  feet.  The  width  of  the 
river  above  the  shoot  is  627  yards;  below,  209.  For  the 
form  of  the  shoot,  see  a  rough  draught  herewith.'*  In  high 
water  the  appearance  is  much  more  sublime,  as  the  great 
quantity  of  wate-  then  forms  a  spray,  which  in  clear  weather 
reflects  from  some  positions  the  colors  of  the  rainbow,  and 
when  the  sky  is  overcast  covers  the  falls  in  gloom  and 
chaotic  majesty. 

From  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  Rum  river,  the  Missis- 
sippi is  almost  one  co".tinual  chain  of  rapids,  with  the  eddies 
formed  by  winding  channels.  Both  sides  are  prairie,  with 
scarcely  any  timber  but  small  groves  of  acrub  oak.  Rum 
river  is  about  50  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  lakes  its 
source  in  Le  Mille  Lac,"  which  is  but  35  miles  S.  of  Lower 

'<TVie  "rough  draft"  herein  mentioned  was  published  in  the  orig.  ed.  as  a 
ilate  jf  page  size,  and  is  rejjroduced  in  facsimile  for  the  present  ed. 

'•Pike's  phrase  "  Le  Mille  Lac"  brings  up  an  orthographic  case  unique  in 
some  respects.  No  Minnesota  lake  is  better  known  than  this  one  ;  but  what 
shall  we  call  it?  Shall  we  say  Mille  Lac,  and  then  call  the  county  in  which  it 
is  partly  situated  Mille  Lac3,  as  the  G.  L.  O.  map  of  1887  does  ?    Is  the  single 


>.?;!i*il 


312 


LE  LAC   DES   MILLE  LACS. 


s^t'•' ' 


Red  Cedar  Lake.     The  smdl  Indian  canoes  ascend  this 
river  quite  to  the  lake,  which  is  considered  as  one  of  the 

body  of  water  Le  Mille  Lac,  as  Pike  says,  or  Les  Mille  Lacs  ?  Is  this  one  lake 
of  a  thousand,  or  a  thousand  lakes  in  one  ?  Nobody  seems  to  know  ;  hence  a 
crop  of  phrases,  e.g.,  Mille  Lac,  Mille  Lacs,  Milles  Lac,  Milles  Lacs;  also, 
Mille  Lac  Lake,  Lake  Mille  Lac,  Lake  Mille  Lacs,  Mille  Lacs  Lake  ;  item,  Mil 
Lac,  Mill  Lake,  and  other  vagaries  too  many  and  too  trivial  to  cite,  all  of  which 
the  student  of  Minnesota  geography  will  discover  sooner  or  later.  The  phrase 
being  French,  we  naturally  turn  to  see  what  a  pure  French  scholar  who  was 
also  a  great  geographer  has  to  say  on  the  subject.  Speaking  of  the  Sioux  having 
their  principal  hunting-camps  on  Leech  1.  and  on  " Minsi-sagaigon-ing,  or  Mille 
Lacs,"  Nicollet  explains  in  a  note,  Rep.  1843,  p.  66 :  "  This  name  is  derived 
from  minsi,  all  sorts,  or  everywhere,  etc. ;  sagaigon,  lake  ;  and  ing,  which  is  a 
termination  used  to  indicate  a  place  ;  so  the  meaning  of  the  word  is  '  place 
where  there  are  all  sorts  of  lakes,'  which  the  French  have  rendered  into  Mille 
Lacs."  Whence  it  appears  that  Mille  Lacs  is  short  for  some  such  phrase  as 
le  pays  aux  mille  lacs,  V entourage  des  mille  lacs,  the  country  full  of  lakes,  the 
environment  of  a  thousand  lakes,  etc.  Now  it  so  happens  geographically  that 
this  one  lake  among  the  thousand  is  vastly  larger  than  any  of  the  rest,  perhaps 
than  all  the  rest  put  together  ;  it  is  par  excellence  le  lac  des  mille  lacs,  the  one 
among  a  thousand  ;  furthermore,  that  it  was  a  Sioux  rendezvous,  which  became 
known  as  Mille  Lacs  by  a  sort  of  unconscious  figure  of  speech  on  the  part  of 
those  who  very  likely  never  heard  of  the  rhetorical  trope  synecdoche,  but  called 
a  part  by  the  name  of  the  whole,  to  suit  themselves.  I  imagine,  therefore,  that 
the  seeming  solecism  of  a  plural  phrase  for  a  singular  thing  is  logically  correct ; 
that  Nicollet  was  right  in  writing  Mille  Lacs  ;  that  Lac  Mille  Lacs  would  be 
grammatically  defensible,  though  inelegant ;  and  that  we  could  say  in  English 
Lake  Mille  Lacs,  or  Lake  Thousand-lakes,  with  equal  propriety,  though  we 
should  avoid  such  forms  as  Lake  Mille  Lac,  or  Mille  Lac  lake.  In  fine,  the 
phrase  Mille  Lacs  has  ceased  to  concern  any  question  of  grammatical  number, 
and  become  a  mere  name  of  two  words.  As  for  the  pleonasm  or  tautology  of 
such  phrases  as  Lac  Mille  Lacs,  or  Lake  Mille  Lacs,  etc.,  this  need  not  disturb 
us  as  long  as  we  continue  to  talk  of  "  Mississippi  river,"  for  example,  as  that 
means  "  Misi  River  river."  There  are  several  earlier  names  of  this  remarkable 
body  of  water.  The  memoir  of  Le  Sieur  Daniel  Greysolon  Du  Luth  on  the 
discovery  of  the  country  of  the  Nadouecioux,  addressed  in  1685  to  Monseigneur 
Le  Marquis  de  Seignelay,  as  translated  from  the  original  in  the  archives  of  the 
Ministry  of  the  Marine,  has  this  passage,  as  given,  ^.^•.,  in  Shea's  Hennep.,  1880, 
p.  375  :  "  On  the  2nd  of  July,  1679,  I  had  the  honor  to  plant  his  Majesty's  arms 
in  the  great  village  of  the  Nadouecioux,  called  Izatys,  where  never  had  a  Frencli- 
man  been,  no  more  than  at  the  Songaskitons  and  Huetbatons,"  etc.  De  or  Du 
Luth,  Lhut,  Lhu,  Lut,  Lud,  whatever  the  trader's  name  was,  had  come  from 
Montreal  (Sept.  ist,  1678)  with  six  or  eight  men  to  this  part  of  Canada  and  was  in 
the  vicinity  of  Sault  Ste.  Marie  on  Apr,  5th,  1679,  under  the  patronage  of  Comte 
Louis  de  Buade  de  Fronten  <:,  who  had  succeeded  De  Courcelle  as  governor 


LE  LAC   DES  MILLE   LACS. 


313 


best  fur  hunting-f^rounds  for  some  hundreds  of  miles,  and 
has  been  long  a  scene  of  rencounters  between  the  hunting. 

of  Canada  Apr.  9th,  1672  ;  consequently  he  named  the  lake  Lac  de  Buade  or 
Lac  Buade  ;  this  was  its  original  denomination  in  French,  and  such  name 
appears  on  many  old  maps,;,  g.,  Hennepin's,  1683,  Franquelin's,  1688,  De 
L'Isle's,  1703,  etc.,  some  of  which  also  mark  a  place  by  the  name  of  Kathio, 
supposed  to  be  the  site  of  a  large  Sioux  village,  on  the  W.  side  of  L.  de  Buade, 
near  the  base  of  the  peninsula  later  known  as  Cormorant  Point,  Du  Lath's 
Izatys  were  Gens  des  Mille  Lacs,  »'.  e.,  Sioux  who  lived  about  Lake  Mille  Lacs  in 
the  country  of  that  "  number  of  small  lakes  called  the  Thousand  Lakes,"  as 
Carver  phrases  it ;  they  were  the  Issati  or  Islati,  Issaqui,  Issanti,  Issanati,  Issa- 
noti,  Issayati,  etc.,  meaning  those  who  lived  in  lodges  on  sharp  stones, ».  e.. 
Knife  Indians,  at  one  of  the  Mille  Lacs  called  Lake  Isan  or  Knife  1. 
However  loosely  Du  Luth's  term  Izatys  may  have  come  to  be  used,  it  desig- 
nated and  most  properly  designates  the  genuine  original  Gens  du  Lac,  or  People 
of  Lake  Thousand-lakes,  our  modern  Mdewakontonwans.  Du  Luth's  Houet- 
batons  are  supposed  to  be  our  Wakpatons,  Warpeton-..  ans,  or  Waqpatonwans  ; 
his  Songaskitons,  our  Sisitonwans,  Seseetwawns  or  Sissetons,  i.  e. ,  lake-dwellers 
{sisi,  marsh  or  lake,  totnuan,  people) ;  these  two  tribes  are  located  on  old  maps 
eastward  of  Lake  Mille  Lacs.  In  1689,  date  of  Pierre  Lesueur's  and  Nicholas 
Perrot's  visit  to  Sioux  dominions,  we  hear  that  N.  E.  of  the  Mississippi  lived 
the  Menchokatonx  01  Mendesuacantons,  /.  e.,  the  same  Sioux  as  Du  Luth's 
Izatys  of  Lac  Buade.  According  to  E.  D.  Neill,  MacalesterColl.  Cont.  No.  10, 
in  1697  Aubert  de  la  Chesnaye  said  that  "  at  the  lake  of  the  Issaqui,  also  called 
Lake  Buade,  are  villages  of  the  Sioux  called  Issaqui  ;  and  beyond  this  lake  are 
the  Oetbatons  ;  further  off  are  the  Anitons  who  are  also  Cioux."  Neill  also 
cites  a  certain  doc,  dated  Quebec,  1710,  which  states  that  "the  three  bands 
with  which  we  are  acquainted  are  the  Tintons,  the  Songasquitons,  and  the  Oua- 
debaetons."  Two  of  these  are  obviously  the  same  as  two  of  Du  Luth's  ;  the 
third  (Tintons)  are  the  same  as  the  Izatys,  or  rather  a  band  of  Indians  who 
came  under  this  more  general  denomination.  Th  "onnection  is  established  in 
Hennepin,  whose  Tintonbas,  Tintonhas,  or  Thini  .lias  were  Sioux  who  lived 
on  the  St.  Francis  (or  Rum  r. ,  the  main  discharge  of  Lake  Buade)  near  the 
Issantis,  and  were  the  Indians  who  captured  his  companions  and  himself. 
This  dig  at  the  roots  of  primitive  Sioux  ethnology  is  merely  to  bring  up  the 
next  name  of  Lac  Buade  ;  for,  from  such  intimate  connection  as  this  body  of 
water  had  with  certain  Sioux,  it  immediately  became  known  as  Lac  des  Issatis, 
and  soon  as  Lac  C3s  Sioux,  or  Sioux  1,;  moreover,  St.  Francis  or  Rum  r., 
which  runs  out  of  the  lake,  became  Sioux  r. ;  e.  g.,  Franquelin's  map,  1688, 
marks  "  R.  des  Fran9ois  ou  des  Sioux."  De  L'Isle's  map,  1703,  letters  the 
lake  "  Mississacaigan  ou  L.  Buade,"  and  the  issuant  river  "  R.  de  Mendeouaca- 
nion."  The  first  of  these  two  Indian  names  is  the  one  which  Nicollet  adopts 
for  the  lake  in  the  form  Minsi  Sagaigoning  ;  the  other  is  the  same  word  as 
Mdewakantonwan.  Nicollet's  remark  on  this  subject,  like  all  his  pregnant 
writing,  requires  attention  here,  especially  as  it  raises  a  geographical  besides  a 


314 


LE  LAC  DES  MILLE  LACS. 


parties  of  the  Sioux  and  Sauteaux.  L:tst  winter  a  number 
of  Fols  Avoins  and  Sioux,  and  some  Sauteaux  wintered  in 
that  quarter.  From  Rum  river  to  Leaf  river,  called  [not]  by 
Father  Hennipin  and  [but  by]  Carver  the  river  St.  Francis," 
and  which  was  the  extent  of  their  travels,  the  prairies  con- 
tinue with  few  interruptions.  The  timber  is  scrub-oak,  with 
now  and  then  a  lonely  pine.    Previous  to  your  arrival  at 

nomenclatural  point,  Rep.  1843,  p.  67  :  "We  still  find  some  confusion  on  the 
maps  as  regards  the  name  of  Minsi-sagaigon-ing.  Some  have  laid  it  down  as 
Mille  Lacs ;  others  as  Spirit  lake  ;  and  on  others,  again,  it  appears  as  two  lakes, 
with  (separately)  both  names.  The  ambiguity  arises  from  the  fact  that  the  same 
lake  has  been  named  by  two  nations.  The  one  which  I  have  adopted  is  from 
the  Chippeways  ;  that  by  which  it  is  known  to  the  Sioux  is  Mini-wakan — mean- 
ing literally,  water  spirit ;  but,  in  this  case,  intended  to  signify  ardent  spirits. 
The  river  that  issues  from  this  lake  has  been  named  Rum  river  by  the  traders  ; 
which  appellation  the  Chippeways  have  translated  into  Ishkode-wabo,  or  ardent 
spirits  ;  and  the  Sioux  ir>'.o  Mdote-mini-wakan,  or  outlet  of  the  ardent  spirit?. " 
That  is  a  dismal  aboriginal  pun  which  mixes  up  nature-spirits  with  the  artificial 
product,  turns  the  lake  into  a  bottle,  and  the  river  into  its  neck  ;  it  is  bad 
enough  to  have  been  perpetrated  "  next  morning,"  and  it  is  too  bad  that  the 
debauches  to  which  the  traders  allured  the  Indians  should  have  been  perpetuated 
in  geographical  nomenclature.  Spirit  1.  is  the  name  under  which  Long,  for 
example,  maps  Lake  Mille  Lacs,  and  the  Gens  du  Lac  he  calls  People  of  Spirit 
Lake  ;  and  Schoolcraft,  Narr.  Journ.  of  1820,  pub.  1821,  p.  214,  has  Great 
Spirit  lake  and  Missisawgaiegon — the  latter  name  also  applied  to  its  discharge 
(Rum  r.).  Spirit  is  not  now  a  name  of  Lake  Mille  Lacs  ;  the  one  for  which  Nicol- 
let conser\  -J  the  name  Mini-wakan,  and  which  hence  became  known  as  Spirit  1. 
and  Devil's  1.,  is  the  large  body  of  water  in  N.  Dakota,  tributary  to  the  Red 
River  of  the  North  ;  Spirit  1.  of  modem  Minnesota  geography  is  a  little  one  of 
the  collection  in  Aitkin  Co.,  between  Lower  Red  Cedar  1.  and  Mille  Lacs  1. 
The  latter  is  the  second  largest  lacustrine  body  of  water  in  the  State.  It  is 
situated  across  the  intercounty  line  between  Aitkin  and  Mille  Lacs,  about  half 
in  one  and  half  in  the  other  of  these  two  counties.  Its  figure  is  more  regular 
than  usual,  being  squarish,  with  three  comers  rounded  off  and  the  S.  E.  one 
drawn  out  a  little  ;  there  is  also  some  constriction  about  the  middle,  where 
points  facing  each  other  run  out  from  the  E.  and  W.  shore  respectively ;  the 
shore  line  is  said  to  be  about  loo  miles  in  all.  The  lake  is  readily  accessible, 
being  only  some  12  m.  S,  of  Aitkin,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  outings.  One 
of  the  14  present  Ojibwa  reservations  is  on  its  S.  shore. 

"  There  is  an  error  here,  as  what  Hennepin  called  the  St.  Fran9ois  in  1680 
is  Rum  r.  of  Carver,  1766,  and  authors  generally  ;  while  St.  Francis  r.  of  Car- 
ver, which  he  thought  was  Hennepin's  St.  Fran9ois,  is  Pike's  Leaf  r.,  now 
known  as  Elk  r.    See  note  ^  p.  95,  where  this  case  is  fully  discussed. 


r 


number 
tered  in 
[not]  by 
Francis," 
ries  con- 
oak,  with 
irrival  at 

ttsion  on  the 
it  down  as 
as  two  lakes, 
that  the  same 
)pted  is  from 
o/6a»— mean- 
rdent  spirits, 
f  the  traders ; 
abo,  or  ardent 
.rdent  spiritF." 
h  the  artificial 
;ck  ;  it  is  bad 
o  bad  that  the 
en  perpetuated 
Hich  Long,  for 
>eople  of  Spirit 
214,  has  Great 
to  its  discharge 
'or  which  Nicol- 
lownas  Spirit  1. 
iry  to  the  Red 
a  little  one  of 
Mille  Lacs  1. 
le  State.     It  is 
,acs,  about  half 
more  regular 
the  S.  E.  one 
middle,  where 
ispectively ;  the 
idily  accessible, 
outings.     One 

rran9ois  in  1680 
Vancis  r.  of  Car- 
l's Leaf  r.,  now 
lussed. 


SAUK  RIVER  AND  RAPIDS. 


315 


Leaf  river,  you  pass  Crow  [Carver's  Goose]  river  on  the  W., 
about  30  yards  wide,  which  bears  from  the  Mississippi  S.  W. 
Leaf  river  is  only  a  small  stream  of  not  more  than  15  yards 
over,  and  bears  N.  by  W. 

The  elk  begin  to  be  very  plenty ;  there  are  also  some 
buffalo,  quantities  of  deer,  raccoons,  and  on  the  prairie  a 
few  of  the  animals  called  by  the  French  brelaws  [blaireaux, 
badgers]. 

Thence  to  Sac  [or  Sauk]  river,  a  little  above  the  Grand 
Rapids  [Sauk  Rapids,  St.  Cloud,  etc.],  both  sides  of  the  river 
are  generally  prairie,  with  skirts  of  scrub-oak.  The  naviga- 
tion is  still  obstructed  with  ripples,  but  with  some  inter- 
missions of  a  few  miles. 

At  the  Grand  Rapids  the  river  expands  to  about  ^  of  a 
mile  in  width,  its  general  width  not  being  more  than  }^  of  a 
mile,  and  tumbles  over  an  unequal  bed  of  rocks  for  about 
two  miles,  through  which  there  cannot  be  said  to  be  any 
channel ;  for,  notwithstanding  the  rapidity  of  the  current, 
one  of  my  invalids  who  was  on  the  W.  shore  waded  to  the 
E.,  where  we  were  encamped.  The  E.  bank  of  these  rapids 
is  a  very  high  prairie ;  the  W.  scrubby  wood-land.  The  Sac 
river  is  a  considerable  stream,  which  comes  in  on  the  W. 
and  bears  about  S.  W.,  and  is  200  yards  wide  at  its  mouth. 

The  quantity  of  game  increases  from  Sac  river  to  Pine 
creek  [now  Swan  river],  the  place  where  I  built  my  stock- 
ade and  left  part  of  my  party;  the  borders  are  prairie,  with 
groves  of  pine  on  the  edge  of  the  bank ;  but  there  are  some 
exceptions,  where  you  meet  with  small  bottoms  of  oak,  ash, 
maple,  and  lynn  [linden,  basswood  or  whitewood,  Ti/ia 
iimericana — bois  blanc  of  the  voyageurs]. 

In  this  distance  there  is  an  intermission  of  rapids  for 
about  40  miles,  when  they  commence  again,  and  are  fully  as 
difficult  as  ever.  There  are  three  small  creeks"  emptying 
on  the  W.  scarcely  worthy  of  notice,  and  on  the  E.  are  two 
small  rivers  called  Lake  and  Clear  Rivers ;  the  former,  quite 

"  Pike  maps  four  on  the  W.,  above  his  Clear= Platte  r.,  and  below  his  Pine 
cr.  =Swan  r.:  see  note  '*,  p.  103. 


!j«;  , 


! 

Ill 
■lit 


3i6 


SWAN  RIVER — LITTLE  FALLS. 


a  small  one  [now  called  Little  Rock],  bears  N.  W.,  and  is 
about  1 5  yards  wide  at  its  mouth  ;  about  three  miles  from 
its  entrance  is  a  beautiful  small  [Little  Rock]  lake,  around 
which  resort  immense  herds  of  elk  and  buffalo.  Clear  river 
[now  called  Platte  river]  is  a  beautiful  little  stream  of  about 
80  yards  in  width,  which  heads  in  some  swamps  and  small 
lakes  [Platte,  Ogechie,  etc.]  on  which  the  Sauteaux  of  Lower 
Red  Cedar  Lake  and  Sandy  Lake  frequently  come  to  hunt. 
Tht  soil  of  the  prairies  from  above  the  falls  is  sandy,  but 
would  raise  small  grain  in  abundance ;  tl.  bottoms  are  rich, 
and  fit  for  corn  or  hemp. 

Pine  creek  [now  Swan  river]  is  a  su.  xU  stream  which 
comes  in  on  the  W.  shore,  and  bears  nearly  W.  It  is  bor- 
dered by  large  groves  of  white  and  red  pine. 

From  Pine  creek  to  the  Isle  De  Corbeau,  or  river  of  that 
name  [now  called  Crpw  Wing],  two  small  rivers  come  in  on 
the  W.  shore.  The  first  [now  Pike  creek]  is  of  little  conse- 
quence ;  but  the  second,  called  Elk  [or  as  now  Little  Elk] 
river,  is  entitled  to  more  consideration,  from  its  communica- 
tion with  the  river  St.  Peters.  They  first  ascend  it  to  a 
small  lake,  cross  this,  then  ascend  a  small  stream  [Long 
Prairie  river,  a  branch  of  Crow  Wing  river]  to  a  large  [Osakis] 
lake  ;  from  which  they  make  a  portage  of  four  miles  W. 
and  fall  into  the  Sauteaux  [or  Chippewa"]  river,  which  they 
descend  into  ihe  river  St.  Peters.  On  the  E.  side  is  one 
small  stream  [Nokasippi  river],  which  heads  toward  Lower 
Red  Cedar  Lake,  and  is  bounded  by  hills. 

The  whole  of  this  distance  is  remarkably  difficult  to  navi- 
gate, being  one  continued  succession  of  rapid  shoals  and 
falls ;  but  there  is  one  [fall  which]  deserves  to  be  more  par- 
ticularly noticed,  viz.:  The  place  called  by  the  French  Le 
Shute  de  la  Roche  Peinture  [La  Chute  de  la  Roche  Peintc, 
Rapids  of  the  Painted  Rock,  now  Little  falls],  which  is  cer- 
tainly the  third  obstacle  in  point  of  navigation  which  I  met 

"The  name  if  this  branch  of  St.  Pierre's  r.  in  Minnesota  duplicates  that  of  a 
large  branch  o'.  the  Mississippi  in  Wisconsin,  The  Minnesota  tributary  is 
Miawakong  r.  of  Long's  map,  1823,  and  Manya  Wakan  r.  of  Nicollet's,  1843. 


CROW  WING   RIVER. 


317 


'.,  and  is 
les  from 
:,  around 
tear  river 
of  about 
nd  small 
of  Lower 
;  to  hunt, 
andy,  but 
s  are  rich, 

am  which 

It  is  bor- 
der of  that 
:ome  in  on 
ittle  conse- 
Little  Elk] 
communica- 
snd  it   to  a 
cam  [Long 

ge  [Osakisj 
ir  miles  W. 

which  they 

side  is  one 
ward  Lower 

cult  to  navi- 
shoals  and 
)e  more  par- 
French  Le 
oche  Peintc, 
/hich  is  cer- 
vhich  I  met 

ilicates  that  of  a 
Ota  tributary  is 
fcollet's,  1843. 


with  in  my  whole  route.  The  shore,  where  there  is  not  prai- 
rie, is  a  continued  succession  of  pine  ridges.  The  entrance 
of  the  river  De  Corbeau  is  partly  hid  by  the  island  of  that 
name,  afid  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Mississippi  above 
and  below  it ;  the  lowest  channel  bearing  from  the  Mississippi 
N,  65°  VV.,  the  upper  due  W.  This,  in  my  opinion,  should 
be  termed  the  Forks  of  the  Mississippi,  it  being  nearly  of 
equal  magnitude,  and  heading  not  far  from  the  same  source, 
although  taking  a  mucn  more  direct  course  to  their  junction. 
It  may  be  observed  on  the  chart  that,  from  St.  Louis  to  this 
place,  the  course  of  the  river  has  generally  been  N.  to  W. 
and  that  from  here  it  bears  N.  E. 

This  river  affords  the  best  and  most  approved  communi- 
cation with  the  Red  river  ;  and  the  navigation  is  as  follows : 
You  ascend  the  river  De  Corbeau  180  miles,  to  the 
entrance  of  the  river  Des  Feuilles  [now  Leaf  river],  which 
comes  from  the  N.  W.  This  you  ascend  180  miles  also ; 
then  make  a  portage  of  half  a  mile  into  Otter  Tail  Lake," 

•*Lac  4  la  Queue  de  Loutre  of  the  F.,  whence  the  E.  name.  This  is  the 
largest  body  of  water  into  which  the  Red  River  of  the  North  expands  in  Min- 
nesota, and  may  be  called  a  principal  source  of  that  river,  as  Pike  says,  though 
it  compares  with  the  true  source  very  much  as  Leech  1.  or  Winnibigoshish  1. 
does  with  that  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  situated  about  the  center  of  Otter  Tail 
Co.,  some  60-70  m.  S.  W.  of  Leech  1,;  Pike's  map  tucks  it  up  snug  under 
Leech  1.  The  Leech-Otter  Tail  traverse,  or  route  by  which  one  passed  from  Miss- 
issippian  waters  to  those  of  Red  r.,  as  beyond  indicated  by  Pike,  is  given  in  de- 
tail by  Schoolcraft  upon  information  of  traders  who  were  familiar  with  this  chain 
of  lakes.  Using  the  nomenclature  of  his  Narrative,  etc.,  1834,  p.  105,  it  may 
be  stated  as  follows :  From  Leech  1.  through  lakes  called  Warpool,  Little 
Long,  of  the  Mountain  and  of  the  Island,  to  the  Crow  Wing  series,  or  Long- 
water,  Little  Vermillion,  Birch,  and  Pie.  Lake  Pie  was  the  one  where  the  route 
forked — one  way  leading  on  down  the  Crow  Wing  series,  the  other  turning  off  to 
the  Otter  Tail  series.  The  latter  consisted  in,  first,  a  portage  of  four  pauses  to 
Island  1.;  portage  of  one  puu^e  into  a  small  lake  which  led  into  another,  and 
this  into  Lagard  1. ;  half  a  pause  to  a  small  lake  ;  pause  and  a  half  to  another  ; 
four  pauses  into  Migiskun  Aiaub  or  Fishline  1. ;  a  pause  into  Pine  1. ;  five  pauses 
into  a  small  river  which  runs  into  Scalp  1.  The  latter  has  an  outlet  which  ex- 
pands into  three  successive  and  about  equidistant  lakes,  and  is  then  received 
into  Lac  Terrehaute,  or  Height  of  Land  1.  The  outlet  of  this  last  expands  into 
a  lake,  and  again  into  water  called  Tvfo  Lakes  from  its  form  ;  whence  the  dis- 
charge is  into  Otter  Tail  1.     It  is  not  easy  to  pick  'Sis  exac;  route  up  from  a 


•1* 


iw'^ 


1 


-■^     I-' 


318 


PINE  RIVER— BALSAM-FIR. 


which  is  a  principal  source  of  Red  river.  The  other  [Long 
Prairie]  branch  of  the  river  De  Corbeau  bears  S.  W.  and  ap- 
proximates with  the  St.  Peters.  The  whole  of  this  river  is 
rapid,  and  by  no  means  affording  so  much  water  as  the  Miss- 
issippi. Their  confluence  is  in  latitude  45°  49'  50"  N.  In 
this  division  the  elk,  deer,  and  buffalo  were  probably  in 
greater  quantities  than  in  any  other  part  of  my  whole  voyage. 

Thence  to  Pine  river  [present  name:  not  to  be  con- 
founded with  Pike's  Pine  creek,  now  Swan  river]  the  Miss- 
issippi continues  to  become  narrower,  and  has  but  few 
islands.  In  this  distance  I  discovered  but  one  rapid,  which 
the  force  of  the  frost  had  not  entirely  covered  with  ice.  The 
shores  in  general  presented  a  dreary  prospect  of  high  barren 
nobs,  covered  with  dead  and  fallen  pine  timber.  To  this 
there  were  some  exceptions  of  ridges  of  yellow  and  pitch- 
pine  ;  also  some  small  bottoms  of  lynn,  elm,  oak,  and  ash. 
The  adjacent  country  is  at  least  two-thirds  covered  with 
small  lakes,  some  of  which  are  three  miles  in  circumference. 
This  renders  communication  impossible  in  summer,  except 
with  small  bark  canoes. 

In  this  distance  we  first  met  with  a  species  of  pine  [fir] 
called  the  sap  pine  [French  sapin,  balsam-fir,  Adtes  bal- 
samea\.  It  was  equally  unknown  to  myself  and  all  my 
party.  It  scarcely  ever  exceeds  the  height  of  35  feet,  and  is 
ver>'  full  of  projecting  branches.  The  leaves  are  similar  to 
other  pines,  but  project  out  from  the  branches  on  each  side 
in  a  direct  line,  thereby  rendering  the  branch  flat.  This 
formation  occasions  the  natives  and  voyagers  to  give  it  the 
preference  on  all  occasions  to  the  branches  of  all  other  trees 
for  their  beds,  and  to  cover  their  temporary  camps ;  but  its 

modern  map  ;  but  I  may  add  that  it  runs  in  Hubbard,  Becker,  and  Otter  Tail 
COS. ;  that  some  of  the  lakes  on  or  near  this  series  are  known  as  Height  of  Land, 
Little  Pine,  Pine,  and  Rush  (these  being  on  the  course  of  Otter  Tail  r.,  and  there- 
fore on  the  Red  River  water-shed  ;  and  that  some  places  on  or  near  the  route  are 
called  Park  Rapids,  Osage,  Linnell,  Shell  Lake,  Jarvis,  Erie,  McHugh,  Frazer 
City,  Lace,  Perham,  and  St.  Lawrence,  The  N.  P.  R,  R,  from  Moorhead  to 
Brainerd  crosses  the  route  in  two  or  three  places,  one  of  these  being  between 
Fine  and  Rush  lakes. 


■■g 


PINE  RIVER  ROUTE  TO  LEECH  LAKE. 


319 


ler  [Long 
V.  and  ap- 
is river  is 
5  the  Miss- 
o"  N.    In 
obably  in 
>le  voyage. 
;o  be  con- 
the  Miss- 
is but  few 
ipid,  which 
hice.    The 
hiigh  barren 
r.    To  this 
'  and  pitch- 
ik,  and  ash. 
>vered  with 
cumference. 
mer,  except 

)f  pine  [fir] 
A  bier  bal- 

ind  all  my 
feet,  and  is 

e  similar  to 

n  each  side 
flat.  This 
give  it  the 

1  other  trees 
ps ;  but  its 

[  and  Otter  Tail 
height  of  Land, 
Lilr.,  andthere- 
Lar  the  route  are 
pcHugh,  Frazer 
Moorhead  to 
[  being  between 


greatest  virtue  arises  from  its  medicinal  qualities.  The  rind 
is  smooth,  with  the  exception  of  little  protuberances  of 
about  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut ;  the  top  of  which  being  cut, 
you  squeeze  out  a  glutinous  substance  of  the  consistence  of 
honey.  This  gum  or  sap  gives  name  to  the  tree,  and  is  used 
by  the  natives  and  traders  of  that  country  as  a  balsam  for 
all  wounds  made  by  sharp  instruments,  or  for  parts  frozen, 
and  almost  all  other  external  injuries  which  they  receive. 
My  poor  fellows  experienced  its  beneficial  qualities  by  the 
application  made  of  it  to  their  frozen  extremities  in  vari- 
ous instances. 

Pine  river  bears  from  the  Mississippi  N.  30°  E.,  although 
it  empties  on  that  which  has  been  hitherto  termed  the 
W.  shore.  It  is  80  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  has  an 
island  immediately  at  the  entrance.  It  communicates  with 
Lake  Le  Sang  Sue  [Leech  lake]  by  the  following  course  of 
navigation :  In  one  day's  sail  from  the  confluence,  you 
arrive  at  the  first  part  of  White  Fish  Lake  [present  name], 
which  is  about  six  miles  long  and  two  wide.  Thence  you 
pursue  the  river  about  two  miles,  and  come  to  the  second 
White  Fish  Lake,  which  is  about  three  miles  long  and  one 
wide ;  then  you  have  the  river  three  miles  to  the  third  lake, 
which  is  seven  miles  long  and  two  in  width.  This  I  crossed 
on  my  return  from  the  head  of  the  Mississippi  on  the  [20th] 
of  February ;  it  is  in  46°  32'  32"  N.  lat.  Thence  you  follow 
the  river  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  fourth  lake,  which  is  a  cir- 
cular one  of  about  five  miles  in  circumference.  Thence  you 
pursue  the  river  one  day's  sail  to  a  small  lake  ;  thence  two 
days'  sail  to  a  portage,  which  conveys  you  to  another  lake ; 
whence,  by  small  portages  from  lake  to  lake,  you  make  the 
voyage  to  Leech  Lake.  The  whole  of  this  course  lies 
through  ridges  of  pines  or  swamps  of  pinenet  [  pinette  "], 
sap  pine,  hemlock,  etc.     From  the  river  De  Corbeau  to  this 

"  Pinenet  or  pinenett  is  Pike's  version  of  epinette  of  the  French  voyageurs, 
name  of  the  tree  we  commonly  call  tamarac  or  hackmetack,  and  which  the  bot- 
anists know  as  black  larch,  Larix  americana.  It  is  so  abundant  and  character- 
istic in  some  places  that  the  wet  grounds  in  which  it  grows  are  usually  called 


320 


LOWER  RED  CEDAR  AND   SANDY  LAKES. 


place  the  deer  are  very  plenty,  but  we  found  no  buffalo 
or  elk. 

From  this  spot  to  [Lower]  Red  Cedar  Lake,  the  pine 
ridges  are  interrupted  by  large  bottoms  of  elm,  ash,  oak,  and 
maple,  the  soil  of  which  would  be  very  proper  for  cultiva- 
tion. From  the  appearance  of  the  ice,  which  was  firm  and 
equal,  I  conceive  there  can  be  but  one  ripple  in  this  dis- 
tance. [Lower]  Red  Cedar  lake  lies  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  at  the  distance  of  six  miles  from  it,  and  is  near 
equally  distant  from  the  river  De  Corbeau  and  Lake  Do 
Sable  [Sandy  lake].  Its  form  is  an  oblong  square,  and 
may  be  lo  miles  in  circumference.  From  this  to  Lake  De 
Sable,  on  the  E.  shore,  you  meet  with  Muddy  [now  Rice] 
river,  which  discharges  itself  into  the  Mississippi  by  a 
mouth  20  yards  wide,  and  bears  nearly  N.  E.  We  then 
meet  with  Pike  [now  Willow:  see  note  ",  p.  127]  river,  on 
the  W.,  about  TJ  [air-line  about  15]  miles  below  Sandy  lake, 
bearing  nearly  'ue  N.;  up  which  you  ascend  with  canoes 
four  days'  sail,  and  arrive  at  a  Wild  Rice  lake,  which  you 
pass  through  and  enter  a  small  stream,  and  ascend  it  two 
leagues  ;  then  cross  a  portage  of  two  acres  into  a  [Big  Rice] 
lake  seven  leagues  in  circumference  ;  then  two  leagues  of  a 
[Kwiwisens  or  Little  Boy]  river  into  another  small  lake. 
Thence  you  descend  the  current  N.  E.  into  Leech  lake. 
The  banks  of  the  Mississippi  are  still  bordered  by  pines  of 
different  species,  except  a  few  small  bottoms  of  elm,  lynn, 
and  maple.  The  game  is  scarce,  and  the  aborigines  sub- 
sist almost  entirely  on  the  beaver,  with  a  few  moose,  and 
wild  rice  or  oats. 

Sandy  Lake  River,  the  discharge  of  said  lake,  is  large,  but 
only  six  [about  two]  miles  in  length  from  the  lake  to  its 
confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  Lake  De  Sable  is  about 
25  miles  in  circumference,  and  has  a  number  of  small  rivers 

tamarac  swamps.  The  sap  pine  of  the  same  sentence  has  been  already  noted 
as  the  \>9Ssa.r&-iix,  Abies  balsamta  :  see  note  **,  p.  132.  There  is  a  Lac  Sapin, 
called  in  English  Balsam-fir  lake.  The  supposed  occurrence  of  hemlock,  Tsuga 
canadensis,  in  this  locality  is  open  to  question. 


SWAN  AND   PRAIRIE  RIVERS— POKEGAMA  FALLS.      32 1 


10  buffalo 

,  the  pine 
[1,  oak,  and 
or  cultiva- 
s  firm  and 
n  this  dis- 
,ide  of  the 
ind  is  near 
i  Lake  Dc 
quare,  and 
o  Lake  Dc 
[now  Rice] 
sippi   by  a 
We  then 
7]  river,  on 
Sandy  lake, 
vith  canoes 
:,  which  you 
scend  it  two 
[Big  Rice] 
leagues  of  a 
small  lake. 
iLeech  lake, 
by  pines  of 
if  elm,  lynn, 
rigines  sub- 
moose,  and 

I  is  large,  but 
lake  to  its 
ale  is  about 
Ismail  rivers 

already  noted 

lis  a  Lac  Sapin, 

[leralock,  Tsuga 


running  into  it.  One  of  those  is  entitled  to  particular 
attention:  the  Savanna,  which  by  a  portage  of  3-)^  miles 
communicates  with  the  river  [Fond  Du  Lac  or]  St.  Louis, 
which  empties  into  Lake  Superior  at  Fond  Du  Lac,  and  is 
the  channel  by  which  the  N,  W.  Company  bring  all  their 
goods  for  the  trade  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.  Game  is 
very  scarce  in  this  country. 

In  ascending  the  Mississippi  from  Sandy  Lake,  you  first 
meet  with  the  Swan  river  [still  so  called :  not  to  be  con- 
founded with  the  other  of  the  same  present  name]  on  the 
east,  which  bears  nearly  due  E.,  and  is  navigable  for  bark 
canoes  for  90  miles  to  Swan  Lake.  You  then  meet  with 
the  Meadow  [or  Prairie]  River,  which  falls  in  on  the  E., 
bears  nearly  E.  by  N.,  and  is  navigable  for  Indian  canoes 
100  miles.  You  then  in  ascending  meet  with  a  very  strong 
ripple  [Grand  rapids],  and  an  expansion  of  the  river  where 
it  forms  a  small  lake.  This  is  three  miles  below  the  Falls 
of  Packegamau  [Pokegama],  and  from  which  the  noise  of 
that  shoot  might  be  heard.  The  course  of  the  river  is  N. 
70"  W.;  just  below,  the  river  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width, 
but  above  the  shoot  not  more  than  20  yards.  The  water 
thus  collected  runs  down  a  flat  rock,  which  has  an  elevation 
of  about  30  degrees.  Immediately  above  the  fall  is  a  small 
island  of  about  50  yards  in  circumference,  covered  with  sap 
pine.  The  portage,  which  is  on  the  E.  (or  N.)  side,  is  no 
more  than  200  yards,  and  by  no  means  difficult.  Those 
falls,  in  point  of  consideration  as  an  impediment  to  the 
navigation,  stand  next  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  from 
the  source  of  the  river  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  banks 
of  the  river  to  Meadow  river  have  generally  either  been 
timbered  by  pine,  pinenett  [^pinette],  hemlock,  sap  pine 
[sapin  or  balsam-fir],  or  aspen  tree.  Thence  it  winds 
through  high  grass  meadows  or  savannas,  with  pine  swamps 
appearing  at  a  distance  to  cast  a  deeper  gloom  on  the 
borders.  From  the  falls  in  ascending,  you  pass  Lake  Packe- 
gamau on  the  W.,  celebrated  for  its  great  production  of 
wild  rice ;   and  next  meet  with  Deer  river  [present  name] 


322 


BALL  CLUB  LAKE— LEECH  LAKE  FORK. 


on  the  E.,  the  extent  of  its  navigation  unknown.  You 
next  meet  with  the  Riviere  Le  Crosse"  [Riviere  h  la  Crosse] 
on  the  E.  side,  which  bears  nearly  N.,  and  has  only  a  port- 
age of  one  mile  to  pass  from  it  into  the  Lake  Winipeque 
Branch  of  the  Mississippi  [through  Little  Lake  Winnibi- 
goshish]. 

We  next  come  to  what  the  people  of  that  quarter  call 
the  forks  of  the  Mississippi,  the  right  fork  of  which  bears 
N.  W.,  and  runs  eight  leagues  to  Lake  Winipeque  [Winni- 
bigoshish"],  which  is  of  an  oval  form,  and  about  36  miles  in 

"  "  R.  le  Crosse"  of  Pike's  map,  the  discharge  of  the  lake  now  universally 
known  as  Ball  Club  :  see  the  account  of  it  in  note  ",  p.  150. 

"  The  lake  which  Pike  calls  Winipie  is  the  large  body  of  water  in  British 
America,  through  which  the  combined  streams  of  the  Assiniboine  and  Red  Wver 
of  the  North  find  their  way  into  Hudson's  bay,  and  which  we  know  as  Lake 
Winnipeg  ;  but  this  does  not  further  concern  us  now.  Pike's  Lake  Winipeque  is 
what  we  now  call  Lake  Winnibigoshish,  on  the  course  of  the  Mississippi.  The 
French  forms  of  the  latter  name,  such  as  Ouinipique,  etc.,  whence  our  Wini- 
peque, Winipec,  Winipeck,  etc.,  are  diminutizing  terms,  as  if  to  say  Little 
Lake  Winipeg.  There  can  be  no  occasion  for  confounding  the  two  lakes,  not- 
withstanding the  similarity  and  sometimes  the  identity  of  their  names. 

Lake  Winnibigoshish  is  that  very  large  dilatation  of  the  Mississippi  which  lies 
next  below  Cass  1.;  see  note*,  p.  159,  for  the  distance  between  the  two,  and 
details  of  that  section  of  the  river  which  connects  them.  The  variants  of  its 
name  are  moderately  numerous  :  Winipeque,  as  above  but  Winipec  on  Pike's 
map  ;  Wenepec,  Lewis  and  Clark's  map,  1814  ;  Little  Winnepeck,  Long  ; 
Winnipec,  Beltrami,  Schoolcraft ;  Winnepeg  and  Big  Winnipeg,  Allen  ;  Wini- 
bigoshish,  Nicollet,  Owen — this  last  the  only  name  now  used,  generally  with 
doubled  «,  and  with  some  variants,  like  Winnepegoosis,  etc.  This  is  the  second 
largest  body  of  water  in  the  whole  Itascan  basin,  exceeded  only  by  Leech  1.,  and 
much  exceeding  Cass  1. ;  its  area  is  probably  not  far  from  that  of  Lake  Pepin, 
but  the  shape  is  very  different.  The  figure  is  squarish,  with  the  N.  W.  and  S. 
W.  corners  rounded  off,  and  the  N.  E.  corner  extended  into  a  well-marked  bay  ; 
the  main  diameters  are  about  ii  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  7^  from  E.  to  W. ; 
the  area  thus  indicated  is  little  encroached  upon  by  projecting  points,  so  that 
the  shore  line  is  shorter  than  usual  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  waters  ;  the 
collateral  feeders  of  the  lake  are  comparatively  few  and  unimportant.  The 
lake  lies  partly  in  no  fewer  than  eight  townships  (each  6  x6  m.  sq.);  but  it  only 
slightly  encroaches  on  five  of  these,  occupying  nearly  all  of  T.  146,  R.  28,  5th 
M.,  the  greater  part  of  T.  145,  R.  28,  and  about  half  of  T.  146,  R.  27  :  actual 
area  thus  equivalent  to  rather  more  than  two  townships,  or  over  72  sq.  m. 
The  construction  of  the  government  dam  at  the  outlet  has  decidedly  altered 
the  shore  line,  and  modified  other  natural  features  ;  the  overflow  due  to  this 


LAKE   WINNIUIGOSHISH. 


323 


wn.      You 

I  la  Crosse] 
nly  a  port- 
Winipcque 
e  Winnibi- 

juarter  call 

/hich  bears 

jue  [Winni- 

36  miles  in 

jow  universally 

ivaterin  British 
5  and  Red  Wver 
know  as  Lake 
ke  Winipeqae  is 
ississippi.  The 
lience  our  Wini- 
if  to  say  Little 
!  two  lakes,  not- 
names. 

|ssippi  which  lies 
in  the  two,  and 
variants  of  its 
nipec  on  Pike's 
inepeck,  Long  ; 
,  Allen  ;  Wini- 
generally  with 
his  is  the  second 
ay  Leech  1.,  and 
of  Lake  Pepin. 
N.  \V.  and  S. 
ell-marked  bay  ; 
fromE.  toW.; 
points,  so  that 
of  waters  ;  the 
nportant.      The 
iq.);  but  it  only 
146,  R.  28,  5tli 
R.  27 :  actual 
over  72  sq.  m. 
icidedly  altered 
Sow  due  to  this 


circumference.  From  Lake  VVinipeque  the  river  continues 
five  leagues  to  Upper  Red  Cedar  [now  Cass]  Lake,  which 
may  be  termed  the  Upper  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  The 
[other  fork  or]  Leech  Lake  Branch  bears  from  the  forks  S. 
W.,  and  runs  through  a  chain  of  meadows.    You  pass  Muddy 

obstruction  has  inundated  the  original  shore  contour  in  the  low  places,  formed 
some  backwater  expansions,  and  drowned  countless  trees.  Many  of  these  stand 
stark  and  black  where  they  grew,  far  out  from  the  present  shore  line,  which 
itself  is  piled  with  drift-wood  in  most  places.  Snags  also  abound  all  along 
the  wooded  shores,  and  the  water  is  so  shallow  that  some  beds  of  bulrushes  rise 
above  the  surface  a  mile  or  more  from  land.  The  scene  is  desolate  and  for- 
bidding. Add  to  this  a  danger  of  navigation  to  an  unusual  degree  for  the  frail 
birch-bark  canoes  which  alone  are  used  on  Winnibigoshish.  The  lake  is  too 
large  to  be  safely  crossed  in  such  boats  at  any  time.  Even  the  Indians  habitu- 
ally sneak  to  the  »hore  through  the  snags  and  rushes  ;  for  the  water  is  very  shal- 
low, easily  churned  up  to  quite  a  sea.  Sudden  squalls  and  shifting  currents  are 
always  to  be  expected,  and  one  runs  considerable  risk  in  venturing  where  land 
cannot  be  made  in  a  few  minutes,  if  necessary.  It  would  be  nothing,  of  course, 
to  a  well-built  keel-boat  with  sail  and  oars  ;  but  a  birch-bark  is  quite  another 
craft.  I  have  seen  Winnibigoshish  as  smooth  as  glass,  and  then  in  a  few  min- 
utes been  glad  to  put  ashore,  to  escape  a  choice  between  swamping  or  capsizing, 
amid  whitecaps  and  combers  at  least  four  feet  from  crest  to  hollow,  breaking 
on  a  lee  shore  full  of  snags  and  piled  with  driftwood.  Good  landing  places  are 
not  to  be  found  all  along  ;  most  of  the  shore  is  low,  and  much  of  it  consists  of 
floating-bog,  in  which  a  man  may  sink  as  easily,  and  less  cleanly,  than  in  quick- 
sand, if  he  sets  an  incputious  foot.  The  water  is  so  impure  as  to  be  scarcely 
fit  for  drinking  ;  the  lake  is  a  sort  of  cesspool  for  all  the  sewerage  of  the  basin 
whose  waters  pass  through  it.  Winnibigoshish,  in  short,  is  dreary,  diriy, 
deceitful,  and  dangerous. 

The  Mississippi  enters  this  reservoir  in  the  S.  W.  part,  at  a  point  in  the  S.  W. 
^  of  Sect.  36,  T.  146,  R.  29,  5th  M.,  where  it  sweeps  around  a  firm  bank, 
steep  enough  to  be  cut  in  some  places,  and  on  which  some  Indians  live  ;  quite 
a  little  delta  extends  far  out  into  the  lake,  overgrown  with  bulrushes  to  such 
an  extent  as  to  hide  the  opening.  But  it  is  not  difficult  to  thread  any  one  of 
several  ways  through  these  to  the  high  bank  just  said,  which  is  the  land-mark  ; 
a  more  conspicuous  one,  from  a  distance,  is  a  piece  of  high  woodland  whose 
point  is  due  S.  }4  m.  from  the  inlet.  Hence  southward  is  the  nearest  approach 
of  Leech  1. ;  a  traverse  offers  by  means  of  Portage  1.  (Nicollet's  Lake  Duponceau), 
though  the  carrying-place  is  somewhat  over  2  m.  long. 

Passing  northward,  to  our  left  as  we  start  from  the  Mississippian  inlet  to  go 
around  the  shore,  the  first  prominent  feature  is  Raven's  point,  distant  from  the 
inlet  4  m.  The  maps  all  represent  this  as  much  longer  and  sharper  than  it 
looked  to  my  eye  ;  probably  much  of  the  point  that  was  once  land  is  now  under 
^vater,  o>«'ing  to  the  dam.     It  is  the  site  of  a  squalid  village  of  Chippewas, 


324 


LAKE  WINNIBIGOSHISH. 


[or  Mud]  lake,  which  is  scarcely  anything  more  than  an  ex- 
tensive marsh  of  15  miles  in  circumference;  the  river  bears 
through  it  nearly  N.,  after  which  it  again  turns  W.  In 
many  places  this  branch  is  not  more  than  10  or  15  yards 
in  width,  although  15  or  20  feet  deep.     From  this  to  Leech 

who  have  been  civilized  into  the  whole  assortment  of  our  own  vices.  A  consid- 
erable stream  falls  in  here,  which  I  suppose  is  Kaminaigokag  r.  of  Nicollet  and 
Owen,  though  it  is  nameless  on  more  modern  maps.  Its  mouth  is  in  Sect.  i8, 
T.  146,  R.  29,  close  to  the  N.  border  of  Sect.  19  ;  nearby  is  a  lake  about  a  mile 
in  diameter,  probably  due  to  overflowage.  Rounding  Raven's  point  and  pro- 
ceeding N.  4  m.  further,  we  come  to  a  little  bay  into  which  flows  a  considerable 
stream  from  the  W.  This  is  Third  r.,  often  marked  "  III.  R."  The  reason  for 
this  name  will  presently  appear.  Schoolcraft  in  Narr.  Journey  of  1820,  pub. 
1821,  p.  246,  calls  it  "  Thornberry  river,  or  La  riviere  des  Epinettes,"  but  F. 
/pinette  does  not  mean  "  thornberry  ":  see  note  '",  p.  319.  The  mouth  of  Third 
r.  foils  in  the  N.W.  %  of  Sect.  33,  T.  147,  R.  28.  Coasting  now  E.  along  the  N. 
shore,  we  round  the  prominence  which  defines  Third  River  bay,  and  which  I  call 
Windy  pt.  from  my  experience  there — it  had  no  name  that  I  could  discover.  It 
consists  of  a  floating-bog  for  some  distance  back,  and  in  this  morass,  further  east- 
ward, a  small  creek  empties  in  Sect.  35  of  the  T.  and  R.  last  said  ;  this  may  be 
called  Bog  cr. ,  if  no  earlier  name  can  be  found  ;  it  is  not  one  of  the  regularly 
enumerated  streams.  A  mile  and  a  half  eastward  of  Bog  cr.,  nearly  or  exactly 
on  the  line  between  Sect.  36  of  the  same  township  and  Sect.  31  of  T,  147,  R. 
27,  is  the  mouth  of  Pigeon  r.  No  other  name  is  heard  on  the  spot  ;  but  this 
is  Second  r.  or  "  II.  R."  of  the  geographers.  Schoolcraft,  /.  c,  called  it  Round 
Lake  r. ,  and  Round  1.  is  present  name  of  its  principal  source.  There  is  a  good 
landing  here  on  a  bit  of  beach  under  a  firm,  bluffy  bank,  the  site  of  the  most  de- 
cent and  well-to-do  Chippewa  village  about  the  'ike.  Three  and  a  half  miles  E. 
S.  E.  of  Pigeon  r.  is  the  wide,  irregular  opening  of  Cut  Foot  Sioux  r. ,  otherwise 
First  r.,  or  "  I.  R.,"  which  discharges  from  a  system  of  lakes,  the  nearest  one  of 
which  is  marked  Cut  Toe  1.  by  Owen,  and  Keeskeesedatpun  1.  on  the  Jewett 
map  of  1890.  This  is  the  river  called  Turtle  Portage  r.  by  Schoolcraft,  /.  c. 
Several  houses  stand  on  and  under  the  high  land  on  the  E.  or  left  bank,  a  frac- 
tion of  a  mile  back  of  the  opening,  among  them  the  trading-house  of  one 
Fairbanks,  where  the  usual  robberies  are  perpetrated  under  another  name, 
but  without  further  pretense  of  any  sort.  Four  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Cut  Toot  Sioux,  in  a  direction  about  S.  S.  E.,  is  the  outlet  of  the  Mississippi,  at 
the  bottom  of  a  large  bay,  offset  from  the  rest  of  the  lake  by  prominent  points 
of  land.  The  separation  of  this  bay  from  the  main  body  of  waters  is  scarcely 
less  well-marked  than  that  of  Pike  bay  from  the  rest  of  Cass  1.  I  propose  to 
call  it  Dam  bay.  The  points  of  land  which  delimit  its  opening  into  Lake  Winni- 
bigoshish  are  :  A  long  linguiform  extension  from  the  S.,  occupying  all  the  ground 
not  overflowed  of  .Se 'ts.  15  and  16,  T.  146,  R.  27,  which  maybe  designated 
Tongue  pt. ;  and  opp  jsite  this,  on  the  N. ,  a  much  less  extensi^'e  prominence. 


LAKE  WINNIBIGOSHISH. 


325 


han  an  ex- 
river  bears 
IS  W.     In 

,r  15  yards 
s  to  Leech 

es.     A  consid- 
)f  Nicollet  and 
,  is  in  Sect.  18, 
ke  about  a  mile 
point  and  pro- 
i  a  considerable 
The  reason  for 
y  of  1820,  pub. 
nettes,"  but  F. 
mouth  of  Third 
E.  along  the  N. 
and  which  I  call 
Id  discover.     It 
ass,  further  east- 
id  ;  this  may  be 
of  the  regularly 
nearly  or  exactly 
31  of  T.  147,  R- 
e  spot  ;  but  this 
called  it  Round 
There  is  a  good 
e  of  the  most  de- 
:l  a  half  miles  E. 
■ouxr.,  otherwise 
ke  nearest  one  of 

I.  on  the  Jewett 
Schoolcraft,  /.  c. 
left  bank,  a  frac- 
ng-house  of  one 

another  name, 
le  mouth  of  the 
,e  Mississippi,  at 
irominent  points 
■aters  is  scarcely 

II.  I  propose  to 
to  Lake  Winni- 

|ng  all  the  ground 
ly  be  designated 
ii^-e  prominence. 


Lake  the  communication  [through  Leech  Lake  river]  is 
direct  and  without  any  impediment.  This  is  rather  consid- 
ered as  the  main  source,  although  the  VVinipeque  Branch  is 
navigable  the  greatest  distance. 

To  this  place  the  v/hole  face  of  the  country  has  an  appear- 
ance of  an  impenetrable  morass  or  boundless  savanna.     But 

which  may  become  known  as  Rush  pt.,  in  Sect.  lo  of  the  T.  and  R.  last 
said.  Paddling  i|^  m.  from  Cut  1  cot  Sioux  r. ,  we  go  through  the  strait  be- 
tween Tongue  and  Rush  pts.,  and  are  then  in  Dam  bay,  a  roundish  body  of 
water  about  2}4  m.  in  diameter.  At  the  S.  end  of  this  is  the  short  thoroughfare 
(outlet  of  the  Mississippi),  less  than  a  mile  long,  which  leads  into  Little  Lake 
Winnibigoshish,  and  has  been  dammed  at  its  lower  end,  in  the  S.  W.  ^  of  Sect. 
25,  necessitating,  of  course,  a  portage  of  a  few  yards  in  canoeing.  The  dam  in 
part  consists  of  a  solid  embankment,  stretching  from  the  S. ;  the  rest  is  the 
wooden  construction  for  raising  and  lowering  a  series  of  gates  by  which  the  flow 
of  water  can  be  regulated.  This  work  looks  sadly  in  need  of  repair,  and  is  said 
to  be  none  too  secure.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  dam  is  a  high  wooded  hill,  a 
fine  spring  of  water,  and  some  vacant  buildings  ;  on  the  other  side  is  a  narrow 
pond  over  a  mile  long,  called  Rice  1. 

Immediately  belov  the  dam,  the  Mississippi  dilates  into  Little  Lake  Winnibi- 
goshish (once  Rush  1.),  of  ii  ■  egularly  oval  figure,  2j^  m.  long  by  scarcely  over 
\  m.  in  greatest  breadth,  its  longest  diameter  about  N.  W.  to  S.  E.  At  a  point 
near  the  S.  E.  is  the  portage,  or  carrying  place,  over  to  Ball  Club  1.,  whose 
head  is  there  distant  about  a  mile  :  see  note  ",  p  150.  The  outlet  of  the  Miss- 
issippi is  on  t;-"  S.,  in  the  N.  W.  ^  of  Sect.  6,  T.  145,  R.  26.  Thence  the 
river  flows  scarcely  W.  of  S.  for  3  m.  direct,  but  I  judge  fully  6)4  by  its  ex- 
tremely tortuous  channel,  to  a  place  in  Sect.  24,  T.  145,  R.  27,  where  some 
rapids  occur  ;  these,  however,  are  easily  shot.  The  further  course  of  the  river 
is  S.  E. ,  8  m.  direct,  but  more  than  twice  as  far  by  the  bends,  to  the  conflu- 
ence of  Leech  Lake  r,,  or  Pike's  "  Forks  of  the  Mississippi  "  :  see  b.ick,  note 
last  cited,  p.  151.  This  whole  section  of  the  Mississippi,  from  Little  Lake 
Winnibigoshish  to  the  mouth  of  Leech  Laker.,  is  easy  canoeing  down,  with 
plenty  of  smooth,  swift  water,  even  at  low  stages,  and  good  places  to  camp  all 
along  on  the  wooded  points  against  which  the  channel  continually  abuts  as  it 
bends  from  side  to  side  of  the  low  bottom-land,  mostly  overgrown  with  reeds 
(Phragmites  communis)  and  bulrushes  {Scirpus  lacustris),  but  toward  Leech 
Lake  r.  becoming  meadowy  and  thus  fit  for  hpying.  Besides  the  main  bends, 
or  regular  channel,  there  are  a  great  many  minor  sluices  or  cut-offs,  practicable 
for  canoeists  ;  and  one  is  borne  quickly  along  by  the  current,  without  minding 
much  whether  one  is  in  the  channel  or  not.  This  way  down,  though  circuitous 
and  several  times  as  far  as  the  route  by  Ball  Club  1.,  which  lies  off  to  the  left  as 
you  descend,  is  decidedly  preferable  ;  but  going  up  river  7  sliould  advise  one 
to  take  the  route  through  Ball  Club,  and  portage  over  to  Little  Lake  Winni- 
bigoshish. 


I  ! 


iv 


326 


WILLIAM   MORRISON. 


on  the  borders  of  the  lake  is  some  oak,  with  large  groves  of 
sugar-maple,  from  which  the  traders  make  sufficient  sugar 
for  their  consumption  the  whole  year.  Leech  Lake  com- 
municates with  the  river  De  Corbeau  by  seven  portages, 
and  with  the  river  Des  Feuilles  ;  also,  with  the  Red  river, 
by  the  Otter  Tail  Lake  on  the  one  side,  and  by  [Upper]  Red 
Cedar  Lake  and  other  small  lakes  to  Red  Lake  on  the  other. 
Out  of  these  small  1-  'is  and  ridges  rise  the  upper  waters 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  iviississippi,"  and  Red  river,  the  latter 

'*Will-.-'r'.  Morrison  is  the  first  of  white  men  known  to  have  been  at  Lake 
Itasca,  rie  wintered  at  Lac  la  Folle,  1803-4,  visited  Lake  Itasca  in  1804,  and 
.igain  in  1811  or  1812.  Mr.  Morrison  was  b.  Canada,  1783,  d.  there  Aug.  9th, 
1866.  He  kept  a  journal,  v.'hich  was  lost,  of  his  movements  before  1824.  He 
described  "  Elk "  1.  to  his  daughter,  Mrs.  Georgiana  Demaray,  and  various 
other  persons  ;  he  considered  and  declared  himself  the  first  of  white  men  at  the 
source,  though  his  claim  does  not  appear  to  havv,  become  a  inatter  of  authentic, 
citab.e  publication  till  1856:  see  Final  Rep.  Minn.  Geol.  Sunf. ,  I.  p.  26.  The 
document  on  which  his  claim  mainly  rests  is  the  extant  original  of  a  letter  ad- 
dressed by  William  to  his  brother  Allan,  dated  Berthier,  Jan.  i6th,  1856.  This 
is  published  verbatim  in  Brower's  Report,  Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  Coll.,  VII.  1893, 
pp.  122-124.  BroWer  says  (/.  c.  p.  120)  that  the  "  Morrison  letter,"  as  orig- 
inally published  in  Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  Coll.,  I.  1856,  pp.  103,  104,  or  2ded.,  1872, 
pp.  417-419,  is  "a  composite  production."  The  article  there  covering  the  William 
Morrison  letter  is  entitled  "  Who  Discovered  Itasca  Lake  ?  "  and  includes  a  letter 
from  Allan  Morrison  to  Gene,  al  Alexander  Ramsay  (now  ex-Secretary  of  War  and 
President  of  the  Society),  dated  Crow  Wing,  Benton  County,  M.  T.,  Feb.  17th, 
1856.  Charles  Ilallock,  Esq.,  formerly  of  New  York,  the  well-known  author 
of  the  .Sportsman's  Gazetteer  and  many  other  works,  founder  of  the  Forest  and 
Stream  weekly  in  New  York,  and  of  the  town  of  Hallock,  now  the  seat  of 
Kittson  Co.,  Minn.,  published  a  version  of  the  "  Morrison  letter,"  said  to  be  a 
"  correct  copy,"  in  his  article  The  Red  River  Trail,  Harper's  Mag.  XIX.  No. 
cix,  June.  1859,  p.  37,  which  aroused  the  jealous  recalcitration  of  Mr.  School- 
craft, whose  reclamation  was  made  in  a  letter  to  George  H.  Moore,  Esq.,  Li- 
brarian of  the  New  York  Historical  Society,  dated  Washington,  Aug.  I2th,  1859, 
and  published  in  the  N.  Y.  Evening  Post,  Aug.  23d,  1859,  p.  i,  column  4.  1 
have  not  inspected  Morrison's  autograph  letter  ;  but  I  have  compared  the  three 
printed  versions  here  in  mention — the  one  of  1856  or  1872,  Hallock's  of  i8sg, 
and  Brower's  of  1893.  They  are  all  to  the  same  effect,  and  evidently  from  one 
source  ;  but  the  textual  discrepancies  of  all  tli.ee  are  so  great  that  they  can 
scarcely  be  called  "copies."  Brower  speaks  of  "  several  letters  written  by  Mr. 
Morrison  on  this  subject,"  and  states  that  the  one  he  jmnts,  of  Jan.  i6th,  1856, 
"  is  given  in  full,  and  just  as  written  and  signed."  From  this  imprint  I  ex- 
tract the  following  clauses  :  "I  left  the  old  Grand  Portage,  July,  1802,    ,    ,    . 


■I  r'"  *\wwm»v 


i.iMCMtlfc^HV* 


LEWIS  CASS. 


3^ 


e  groves  of 
dent  sugar 
Lake  com- 
n  portages, 
;  Red  river, 
Upper]  Red 
,n  the  other, 
pper  waters 
:r,  the  latter 

re  been  at  Lake 

isca  in  1804,  and 
there  Aug.  gth, 
efore  1S24.     He 
•ay,   and   variou-; 
white  men  at  the 
tter  of  authentic, 
-.,  I.  p.  26.    The 
al  of  a  letter  ad- 
i6th,  1856.    This 
Coll.,  VII.  1893, 
I  letter,"  as  orig- 
4,  or  2ded.,  1872, 
fering  the  William 
id  includes  a  letter 
:retary  of  War  and 
M.  T.,  Feb.  17th, 
ell-known  author 
of  the  Forest  and 
,  now  the  seat  of 
tter,"  said  to  be  a 
Mag.  XIX.  No. 
)u  of  Mr.  School- 
Moore,  Esq.,  I.i- 
Aug.  I2th,  1859, 
.  I ,  column  4.     T 
)mpared  the  three 
lallock's  of  18S9. 
ridently  from  one 
•eat  that  they  can 
rs  written  by  Mi^ 
Jan.  i6th,  1856, 
this  imprint  I  ex- 
[uly,  1802,    .    .   . 


VI 


of  which  discharges  itself  into  the  ocean  by  Lake  Winipie, 

in  1803-4,  I  went  and  wintered  at  Lac  La  Folle.  .  .  .  Lac  La  Biche  is  near 
to  Lac  La  Folle.  Lac  La  Uiche  is  the  source  of  the  Great  River  Mississippi, 
which  I  visited  in  1804,  and  if  the  late  Gen.  Pike  did  not  lay  >  down  as  such 
when  he  came  to  Leech  lake  it  is  because  he  did  not  happen  to  meet  me.  .  .  . 
I  Visited  in  1804,  Elk  lake,  and  again  in  1811-12,"  etc.  Nothing  appears  to  in- 
validate this  letter  ;  for  Mr.  Schoolcraft's  contemptuous  contentimi  of  1859  be- 
littled Mr.  Morrison  and  Mr.  Hallock  without  disproving  or  even  disputing  Mr. 
Morrison's  claim.  The  gravamen  of  Mr.  Schoolcraft's  charge  is  contained  in 
the  statement  "  that  he  [Morrison],  or  his  friends  in  Minnesota,  should  have  de- 
ferred forty-seven  years  to  make  this  important  announcemen*,  is  remarkable." 
It  may  have  been  "remarkable";  but  it  is  not  inexplicalile.  Mr.  Henry  D. 
narrower,  i  the  Educational  Reporter  Extra,  Ivison,  Blakeman,  Taylor  and 
Co.,  New  York  and  Chicago,  pub.  Oct.,  1886,  8vo,  p.  17,  has  some  discerning 
and  judicious  remarks  on  this  score  :  "  The  statements  of  the  brothers  Morri- 
son have  generally  been  received  witliout  question  by  scientists  and  geog- 
rr'H'"'"'  m  Minnesota  ;  and  in  his  letter  Allan  Morrison  expresses  surprise  th.it 
.•  'i\.!hv  oulil  be  ignorant  of  the  title  of  his  brother  to  the  discovery  of  Itasca 
jji  ;■.  •  Schoolcraft.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  however,  that  Allan  Morrison  acted 
as  guide  for  Charles  Lanman  for  a  number  of  weeks  in  1846,  during  which 
time  they  visited  Itasca  Lake  ;  and  tliat  Lanman,  in  his  published  account  of 
the  trip,  nowhere  mentions  Wm.  Morrison,  or  intimates  that  he  was  ever  at  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi,  but  definitely  ascribes  the  discovery  to  Schoolcraft  in 
1832.  See  Lanman's  'Adventures  in  the  Wilderness,'  vol.  i,  pai:;es  48,  75,  etc. 
I  venture  the  opinion  that  Morrison  first  identified  his  Elk  Lake  of  1804  with 
Schoolcraft's  Itasca  when  he  read  Schoolcraft's  '  Summary  Narrative'  (1855)  ; 
and  that  it  is  safe  to  say  that  if  Morrison  discovered  Lake  Itasca,  Schoolcraft 
discovered  Morrison,"  This  may  be  considered  to  raise  the  question,  What 
constitutes  discovery  ?  But  that  does  not  affect  the  main  issue.  Mr,  Mor- 
rison's declaration  that  he  visited  Lake  Itasca  in  1804  and  again  in  1811-12  thus 
far  rests  uncontested.  If  the  case  is  ever  re-opened,  it  will  probably  be  upon 
newly  di.scovered  documentary  evidence  of  priority  of  discovery  by  some 
Frenchman.  When  Pike  was  at  Leech  1.  he  just  missed,  by  some  months  and 
scarcely  more  miles,  the  glory  of  tlie  most  important  discovery  lie  could  pos- 
sibly have  m.ade  in  the  course  of  this  or  his  other  expedition. 

In  May,  1820,  Lewis  Cass,  then  governor  of  Michigan,  left  Detroit  with  38 
men,  .among  whom  was  Henry  Rnwe  Sclioiilcraft.  Proceeding  by  Michilimacki- 
nac  he  struck  the  Miss.  r.  at  Sandy  1.,  and  entered  it  July  17th.  The  narrative 
recites  that  he  went  to  Peckagama  falls,  thence  55  m.  to  the  Forks,  45  to  Lake 
Winnipec,  and  .about  50  m.  more  to  the  large  lake  then  first  called  Cassina  and 
afterward  Cass  1.  by  .Schoolcraft.  This  was  entered  July  2 1st  ;  but  the  party 
Avent  no  further.  It  was  then  represented  to  them  that  the  source  of  the  river 
was  in  a  lake  called  La  Beesh,  ;'.  e.,  La  Biche,  erroneously  supposed  to  be  60 
miles  N.  W.;  upon  wliich  the  river  was  computed  to  be  3,038  m.  long,  at  an 
altitude  of  1,330  feet  :  for  the  particulars  of  this  voyage,  see  Schoolcraft's  Nar- 


328 


GIACOMO   CONSTANTINO   BELTRAMI. 


Nelson's  River,  and  Hudson's  Bay.     All  those  waters  have 

rative  Journal,  etc.,  pub.  E.  and  E.  Hosford,  Albany,  N.  Y.,  1821,  i  vol.  8vo, 
pp.  i-xvi,  17-419,  4  unpriged  pages  of  index,  map,  plates  ;  it  is  full  of  errors. 
The  Cradled  Hercules,  as  Nicollet  later  called  it,  slept  on  this  till  Schoolcraft 
returned  in  1833  to  awaken  the  infant,  with  Lieut.  Allen,  Rev.  Mr.  Boutwell, 
Dr.  Houghton,  and  Mr.  Jo.  nston,  under  the  leadership  of  Chief  Ozawindib. 

Giacomo  Constantino  Beltrami  was  b.  Bergamo,  Italy,  1779 ;  au  tnieiix, 
Mme.  La  Comtesse  de  Campagnoni  n^e  Fasseri,  at  Florence,  1812  ;  exiled,  1821  ; 
Fort  St.  Anthony  (Snelling),  May  loth,  1823;  and  when  Long's  expedition  came 
in  July  of  that  year,  he  accompanied  it  up  the  Minn.  r.  and  down  the  Red 
River  of  the  North  to  Pembinu,  where  he  took  offense  and  his  conge  simul- 
taneously, between  Aug.  gth-gth.  The  differences  between  the  American  sol- 
dier and  the  expatriated  Italian  were  great  and  various.  Major  Long  ejected 
Signor  Beltrami  on  the  spot,  and  on  paper  dismissed  him  not  less  curtly  and 
contemptuously,  making  this  harsh  judgment  a  personal  matter  over  initials  S. 
H.  L.  in  Keating,  I.,  p.  314  :  "An  Italian  whom  we  met  at  Fort  St.  Anthony 
attached  himself  to  the  expedition  and  accompanied  us  to  Pembina.  He  has 
recently  published  a  book  entitled,  '  La  Decouverte  des  Sources  du  Miss- 
issippi,' &c.,  which  we  notice  merely  on  account  of  the  fictions  and  misrepresen- 
tations it  contains."  Mr.  Schoolcraft  makes  a  point  of  snubbing  Sig.  Beltrami : 
seepos/ei.  The  amiable  M.  le  Professeur  Nicollet  alone  has  a  kindly  word  for  his 
co-laborer  in  Mississippian  exploration  :  "  Hedescended  Turtle  river,  which  emp- 
ties into  Lake  Cass  ; — that  hud  been  the  terminus  of  the  expedition  of  1820,  under 
the  command  of  General  Cass,  and  in  honor  of  whom  it  is  so  named.  Now,  as  the 
sources  of  Turtle  river  are  more  distant  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  than 
this  [Itasca]  lake,  Mr.  Beltrami  thought  himself  authorized  to  publish  that  /le 
had  discovered  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi.  Hence,  perhaps,  may  be  ex- 
plained why,  as  late  as  Mr.  Schoolcraft's  expedition  of  1832,  the  sources  of  the 
river  were  laid  down  as  N.  W  of  Lake  Cass.  I  may  be  mistaken,  but  it  strikes 
me  that  American  critics  have  been  too  disdainful  of  Mr.  Beltrami's  book, 
which  found  many  readers  on  both  continents,  whilst  it  propagated  some  painful 
errors,"  Rep.  1843,  p.  59.  Hon.  J.  V.  Brower,  the  latest  and  altogether  the 
best  monographer,  stigmatizes  Sig.  Beltrami  as  "a  hero-worshipper  with  but  one 
hero,  and  that  himself,"  Miss.  R.,  etc.,  1893,  p.  136.  With  me  the  question 
is  not  one  of  Beltrami's  character,  temperament,  imagination,  sex-relations,  etc., 
but  simply.  What  did  he  do  about  the  Mississippian  origmes?  Brower  gives  a 
clear,  connected,  and  fair  answer,  ibid,,  pp.  137-141,  in  part  from  an  article  by 
Mr.  A.  J.  Hill  of  St.  Paul.  Beltrami  bravely  made  his  way  alone  to  Red  1., 
which  he  left  Aug.  26th,  1823  ;  was  guided  Aug.  28th  to  the  vicinity  of  Turtle 
1.;  found  a  spot  whence  he  thought  water  flowed  four  ways,  N.,  S,,  E.,  W.,  to 
three  oceans,  and  which  tvas  a  part  of  the  divide  between  Mississippian  and 
Hudsonian  waters;  named  Lake  Julia,  tributary  to  Turtle  1.,  as  a  "Julian 
source"  of  the  Mississippi,  which  it  -was  ;  declared  it  to  be  the  true  source,  as 
he  defined  the  "  source  "  of  a  river,  by  position  relative  to  position  of  the  mouth  ; 
declared  and  certainly  believed  he  had  discovered  this  source,  in  which  he  was 


waters  have 

21,  I  vol.  8vo, 
full  of  errors, 
till  Schoolcraft 
Mr.  Boutwell, 
Ozawindib. 
79;   au  mietix, 
2  ;  exiled,  1 821 ; 
expedition  came 
down  the  Red 
lis  conge  simul- 
le  American  sol- 
jor  Long  ejected 
t  less  curtly  and 
•  over  initials  S. 
'ort  St.  Anthony 
mbina.     He  has 
ources  du  Miss- 
and  misrepresen- 
ts Sig.  Beltrami : 
.indly  word  for  his 
river,  which  emp- 
ionof  1820,  under 
ned.    Now,  as  the 
e  Mississippi  than 
o  publish  that  he 
naps,  may  be  ex- 
he  sources  of  the 
ken,  but  it  strikes 
Beltrami's  book, 
rated  some  painfiil 
nd  altogether  the 
tipper  with  but  one 
me  the  question 
sex-relations,  etc., 
Brower  gives  a 
from  an  article  by 
alone  to  Red  1., 
vicinity  of  Turtle 
S.,  E.,  W.,  to 
Mississippian  and 
1.,  as  a  "Julian 
he  true  source,  as 
tiou  of  the  nioutli ; 
in  which  he  was 


GIACOMO   CONSTANTINO   BELTRAMI.  329 

their  upper  sources  within  lOO  miles  of  each  other,  which  I 

mistaken,  as  it  was  already  known  ;  named  other  lakes  for  other  friends  ;  and  was 
informed  by  his  guide  of  Lake  Itasca,  which  he  located  on  his  map  with  approx. 
accuracy  by  the  name  of  Doe  1.,  translating  Lac  La  Biche  of  the  I''.,  though 
it  appears  in  his  text  as  Bitch  1.  by  mistake.  For  Beltrami  distinctly  speaks,  1 1, 
p.  434,  of  Lake  Itasca :  "  which  the  Indians  call  Moscosaguaiguen,  or  Bitch 
lake,  which  receives  no  tributary  stream,  and  seems  to  draw  its  waters  from  the 
bosom  of  the  earth.  //  is  here  in  my  opinion  that  we  shall  fix  the  western 
sources  of  the  Mississippi,"  as  Schoolcraft  and  Allen  d'd,  nine  years  afterward. 
Beltrami  proceeded  to  Cass  1.,  and  thence  to  Fort  St.  Anthony,  where  he  arrived 
after  great  hardships  in  a  state  of  extreme  destitution  ;  went  to  New  Orleans, 
and  there  published  his  first  book,  1824.  In  all  this  I  see  no  necessary  occa- 
sion for  disdain  or  derision;  the  man  did  the  best  he  could — "angels  could 
do  no  more."  He  showed  courage,  fortitude,  endurance,  perseverance,  ambi- 
tion, and  enthusiasm — all  admirable  qualities.  He  wrote  an  extravagant  book, 
to  be  sure  ;  but  it  displays  less  egotism  and  more  fidelity  to  the  facts,  as  he  under- 
stood them,  than  Hennepin's,  for  example,  and  has  a  higher  moral  quality  tli.in 
the  average  Jesuit  Relation.  He  shot  high,  but  not  with  a  longer  bow  than 
many  a  traveler  before  and  since  himself.  One  test  of  his  good  faith  is  the  per- 
fect ease  with  which  we  can  find  the  facts  in  his  book  and  separate  them  from 
the  figments  of  his  overwrought  imagination.  Heredity  and  environment  con- 
spired to  lead  him  into  grave  errors  of  judgment  and  some  misstatements  of  fact ; 
but  which  one  of  us  who  write  books  can  stone  his  glass  house  with  impunity  ? 
Beltrami's  Julian  source  will  run  in  the  books  as  long  as  the  water  runs  from 
that  source,  alongside  the  Plantagenian  and  Itascan  sources.  Beltrami's  map 
locates  Doe = Itasca  1.  with  greater  accuracy  than  any  earlier  map  does.  The 
"  pointed  similarity  "  it  has  been  said  to  bear  to  Pike's — and  I  fear  as  a  sugges- 
tion  of  plf.giarism — does  not  extend  to  the  Itascan  source,  for  there  is  not  a  trace 
of  this  on  Pike's  published  map.  Beltrami  went  from  New  Orleans  to  Mexico, 
traversed  that  country,  reached  London  about  1827,  published  his  Pilgrimage, 
etc.,  2  vols.,  and  d.  at  Filotrano,  Feb.,  1855,  in  his  76th  year.  He  fills  the  niche 
in  Mississippian  geographical  history  between  Cass,  1820,  and  Schoolcraft  and 
Allen,  1832  ;  meanwhile,  Itasca  State  Park  lies  mainly  in  Beltrami  Co.,  Minn., 
which  includes  both  the  Julian  and  Itascan  sources.  There  was  nothing  the 
matter  with  Beltrami  but  woman  on  the  brain  ;  he  had  a  queen  bee  in  his 
bonnet — that  is  all.  Much  that  has  been  taken  for  puerile  conceit  is  the  virile 
badinage  of  a  man  of  the  world,  of  wit,  and  of  penetration.  I  have  read  his 
Pilgrimage  with  interested  attention  ;  it  is  clear  to  me  that  Beltrami  was  no 
Ttiere  fidtieur — by  no  means  such  a  trifler  as  some  of  his  passages  might  excuse 
one  for  supposing  him  to  be.  He  was  a  well-read  and  well-traveled  man  ; 
his  obiter  dicta  on  various  things,  as  religion,  politics,  society,  and  other  broad 
themes,  are  generally  acute.  He  was  a  brave  man  ;  I  imagine  Major  Long  had 
a  time  of  it  with  Sioux,  and  Signor  Beltrami  too  ;  it  seems  to  have  beer,  a  case  of 
scalping-knife  and  stiletto.  As  I  have  already  cited  the  military  mailed  hand, 
let  us  see  the  fine  Italian  hand  :  "  Major  Long  did  not  cut  a  very  noble  figure 


K'i  ii  j. 


!     ! 


8 


I 


330 


BELTRAMI— SCHOOLCRAFT. 


think  plainly  proves  this  to  be  the  most  elevated  part  of  the 

in  the  affair  ;  I  foresaw  all  the  disgusts  and  vexations  I  should  have  to  experi- 
ence," IL  p.  303  ;  "  met  a  band  of  Sioux.  The  major  thought  he  read  hostile 
intentions  in  their  faces  ;  he  even  thought  they  had  threatened  him  ; — of  rourse 
everybody  else  thought  so  too—like  Casti's  courtiers ;  ...  it  was  inci'mbent 
on  me,  therelore,  to  be  very  much  alarmed,  too  ;  .  .  .  I  rather  think  the 
fright  they  threw  the  major  into  was  in  revenge  for  his  giving  them  nothing  but 
boring  speeches.  If  they  meant  it  so  they  had  every  reason  to  be  satisfied," 
II.  pp.  336-37  ;  "  Colonel  Snelling's  son,  who  shewed  the  most  friendly  concern 
and  apprehensions  for  me.  He  also  left  the  major  at  the  same  time,  not  with- 
out violent  altercation,  .  .  .  with  considerable  regret  I  parted  from  Dr.  Say, 
one  of  the  naturalists  attached  to  the  expedition,  the  only  one  who  deserved  the 
designation  [this  was  a  tickler  for  Prof.  Keating's  fifth  rib],"  II.  370;  "they 
[Colonel  Snelling,  Major  Taliaferro,  and  others]  were  indignant  against  Major 
Long  for  acting  towards  me  in  the  miserable  manner  that  he  did.  With  respect 
to  myself,  I  feel  towards  him  a  sort  of  gratitude  for  having  by  his  disgusting 
manners  only  strengthened  my  determination  to  leave  him,"  II.  p.  483.  Bel- 
trami was  evidently  able  to  keep  his  own  scalp,  and  his  book  is  vastly  diverting, 
except  in  the  boggy  places,  where  he  mires  us  down  with  his  gyna'cosophy.  It 
is  entitled  :  A  Pilgrimage  in  F  urope  and  America,  leading  to  the  Discovery  of  the 
Sources  of  the  Mississippi  River,  etc.,  2  vols.,  8vo,  London,  1828,  pp.  i-lxxvi, 
1-472,  and  1-545,  map  and  rilates.  It  is  dedicated  "  To  the  F.iir  Se\.  Oh 
Woman  ! "  The  text  is  in  epistolary  form,  ostensibly  addressed  to  the  countess, 
and  consists  of  22  letters,  1821-23  ;  matter  of  Julian  sources,  II.  p.  409  se^., 
and  map. 

In  1830,  Cass  was  directed  by  the  War  Department  to  request  Schoolcraft, 
who  was  then  an  agent  of  the  Office  of  Indian  affairs  of  the  W.  D.,  to  proceed 
into  the  Chippewa  country  to  endeavor  to  put  an  end  to  the  hostilities  between 
the  Chippewas  and  the  Sioux.  The  wars  which  neither  Pike,  nor  Clark,  nor  any- 
body else  had  succeeded  in  stopping  permanently  in  those  quarters  were  thus 
indirectly  the  cause,  and  directly  the  occasion,  of  the  rediscovery  of  the  source  of 
the  Miss.  r.  Schoolcraft  left  St.  Mary's,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Superior,  late  in 
June,  1831,  with  27  persons,  exclusive  of  guides  and  Indian  portagers.  But  the 
atrocious  massacre  of  Menomonees  by  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  at  Prairie  du  Chien, 
and  other  circumstances,  diverl.J  liiis  expedition  from  the  sources  of  the  river, 
and  Schoolcraft  returned  to  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie.  The  plan  was  resumed  early 
in  1832,  when  another  party  was  made  up  uf  some  30  persons,  on  the  basis  of 
an  attempt  to  effect  permanent  peace  between  the  two  principal  tribes.  School- 
craft left  the  Sault  June  7th,  1832.  This  place  was  and  is  on  a  large  lake 
which  S.  calls  Igomi,  Chigomi,  and  Gitchigomi,  and  others  Kitchi  Gummi — 
though  we  prefer  Lake  Superior  to  the  Chippewa  vernacular.  On  July  3d,  lie 
reached  Mr.  Aitkin's  trading-house  on  tlie  discharge  of  Sandy  1.,  a  distance  of 
about  150  m.  by  the  usual  St.  Louis  and  Savanna  rivers  route.  Caes  1.  wa 
entered  on  the  loth  ;  this  was  the  point  of  departure  for  new  exploraJiion,  as  it 
was  that  where  the  Cass  expedition  han  ended  Jmy  21st,  1820      Cass  :.  was  then 


HENRY   ROWE   SCHOOLCRAFT.  33 1 

N.  E.  continent  of  America.     But  we  must  cross  what  is 

determined  to  be  2,978  instead  of  3,038  m.  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  by  the 
course  of  the  river.  The  Indian  guide,  Ozawindib,  began  to  make  history  and 
immortalize  his  name  at  this  point.  He  took  the  party  up  the  Miss.  r.  to  Lac 
Traverse  or  Pamitrhi  Gumaug,  that  is,  to  Lake  Bemidji,  and  thence  by  the  chain 
of  lakes  Schoolcraft  called  Irving,  Marquette,  La  Salle,  and  Plantagenet,  up  the 
course  of  the  "  South"  (better  called  East)  fork  of  the  Miss.  r.  to  the  Naiwa  r. 
and  1  Jsav.a  1. ,  thus  discovering  the  linked  chain  which  later  became  known  as 
the  "  liantageaian  source  ":  see  note  ',  p.  162.  Ozawindib  then  portaged  the 
party  over  to  the  'ake  which  Morrison  had  discovered  in  1804.  Camp  was 
pitched  on  the  island  which  by  common  consent  bears  Schoolcraft's  name,  July 
13th,  1832.  J'he  party  consisted  of  16  persons,  including  Ozawindib,  Mr. 
Schoolcraft,  Lieut.  James  Allen,  U.  S,  A.,  Dr.  Douglass  Houghton,  Rev,  \Vm. 
T.  Boutwell,  and  Mr.  George  Johnston.  The  name  "Itasca"  was  a  whim  of 
Schoolcraft's,  which  would  mislead  anyone  who  should  search  Indian  languages 
for  its  etymology,  especially  as  Mr.  S.  himself  affects  obscurantism  by  saying  : 
"  Having  previously  got  an  inkling  of  some  of  their  mythological  and  necro- 
mantic notions  of  the  origin  and  mutations  of  the  country,  which  permitted 
the  use  of  a  female  name  for  it,  I  denominated  it  Itasca."  This  is  a  dark  hint 
of  mystic  and  very  likely  phallic  superstitions  ;  but  the  facts  in  the  case  are 
given  in  Brower's  Report,  p.  148,  from  personal  interview  with  the  Rev.  Boutwell 
himself,  who  said  in  substance  that  once  when  he  and  Mr.  S.  were  in  the  same 
canoe  in  1832,  the  latter  suddenly  t;irned  and  asked  him  what  was  the  Greek 
and  Latin  definition  of  the  headwaters  or  true  source  of  a  river.  Mr.  B.  could 
not  on  the  spur  of  the  moment  rally  any  Greek,  but  mustered  Latin  enough  to 
give  Mr.  S.  his  choice  of  Verttm  Caput  (true  head)  or  Veritas,  Caput  (truth, 
head);  by  combining  which  latter  tw'>  words,  beheading  one  and  bobtailing  the 
other,  Mr.  S.  made  (Ver)ITASCA(pur),  and  said,  "  Itasca  shall  be  the  name." 
He  was  quite  equal  to  such  juggling  with  words  ;  e.  g.,  his  Lake  .Shilm  is  named 
by  a  word  which  consists  of  the  initial  letters  of  Schoolcraft,  //oughton,  /uhn- 
ston  (for  ybhnston),  boutwell,  and  AWtn.  It  is  lucky  Mr.  Boutwell  did  not 
think  of  the  Greek  for  "  head  waters,"  or  Itasca  might  have  been  named 
Lake  Hydrocephalus.  Mr.  Schoolcraft  perpetuated  the  etymological  myth 
by  perpetrating  some  stanzas,  two  lines  of  which  are  :  "  As  if  in  Indian  myths 
a  truth  there  could  be  read.  And  these  were  tears  indeed,  by  fair  Itasca  shed." 
None  of  the  party  appears  to  have  noticed  the  smaller  lake  south  of  Itasca, 
though  it  was  only  333  yards  from  the  head  ot  the  W.  arm,  which  was  not  ex- 
plored ;  and  in  fact  the  visit  of  so  much  hisiDrical  moment  was  in  itself  but 
momentary.  The  main  point  ascertained  was  the  location  of  Itasca  to  the  S.  W. 
of  Cass  1.,  where  Beltrami  had  already  represented  it  to  he,  instead  of  the  N.  W. 
wiiere  Schoolcraft  had  supposed  it  was.  The  many  little  lakes  and  streams  in 
the  Itasca  basin,  and  all  nice  topographic  features,  were  left  to  be  discovered  by 
■sicollet  i<x\<\  his  successors.  Their  Chippewa  guide  took  them  back  by  way 
of  tus  mam,  west,  or  Itascan  course  of  the  river  to  Cass  1.,  whence  they  went 
to   Leech  1.,  thence  by  the  chain  of  lakes  to  Ciow  Win^   r.,  and  so  on  to  the 


I 


I  iH'I! 


•  i 


333 


SCHOOLCRAFT — JAMES  ALLEN. 


commonly  termed  the  Rocky  Mountains,  or  a  Spur  of  the 

Mississippi  again.  It  is  certainly  not  my  desire  to  disparage  Mr.  Schoolcraft ; 
but  one  who  could  be  taken  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  and  leave  it  the 
same  day,  seeing  nothing  but  what  was  shown  him,  and  giving  only  a  glance  at 
that,  was  not  the  person  who  should  have  snubbed  Beltrami  as  he  did  when  he 
wrote  that  "  a  Mr.  Beltrami,  returning  from  the  settlement  of  Pembina  by  the 
usual  route  of  the  traders  from  Red  Lake  to  Turtle  Lake,  published  at  New 
Orleans,  a  small  i2mo  volume  under  the  title  of  '  La  decouverte  des  sources  du 
Mississippi,  et  de  la  Riviere  [sic]  Sanglante,'  a  work  which  has  since  been  ex- 
panded into  two  heavy  8vo  volumes  by  the  London  press"  (Narrative,  etc., 
heavy  8vo,  New  York,  1834,  p.  73).  That  sort  of  a  sneer  at  a  prior  explorer 
in  the  same  region  comes  with  particularly  bad  grace  from  a  gentleman  who 
was  expert  in  expanding  his  own  stock  of  information  to  the  most  voluminous 
proportions,  and  whose  cacoethes  scribendi,  by  dint  of  incessant  scratching,  finally 
developed  a  case  of  pruritus  senilis,  marked  by  an  acute  mania  for  renaming 
things  he  had  named  years  before  :  see  his  Summary  Narrative,  etc.,  Philada., 
Lippincott,  Grambo  and  Co.,  1855.  Mr.  Schoolcraft  never  forgave  Sig. 
Beltrami  for  telling  where  Lake  Itasca  would  be  found  ;  had  he  done  so,  he 
would  have  been  untrue  to  the  supreme  selfishness,  inordinate  vanity,  vehement 
prejudices,  and  conscientious  narrow-mindedness  with  which  his  all-wise  and 
all-powerful  Calvinistic  Creator  had  been  graciously  pleased  to  endow  him. 
Another  account  of  Schoolcraft's  expedition  of  1832  occupies  pp.  125-132  of 
Minn.  Hist.  Soc.  Coll.,  I.  2d  ed.  1872  ;  Mr.  Boutwell's  narrative  of  the  same 
is  found   idid.,  pp.  153-176. 

James  Allen's  name  is  not  so  well  known  in  this  connection  as  it  should  be. 
That  is  to  say,  the  public  seldom  connects  his  name  with  the  discovery  of  Lake 
Itasca.  But  if  Mr.  Schoolcraft  was  the  actual  head  of  the  expedition  of  1832, 
and  became  its  best  known  historian,  Lieutenant  Allen  was  a  large  and  shapely 
portion  of  the  body  of  that  enterprise,  decidedly  the  better  observer,  geographer, 
and  cartographer ;  item,  the  commander  of  the  military  escort,  which  might 
have  been  necessary  for  safety  and  success ;  item,  the  author  of  an  able, 
interesting,  and  important  report  upon  the  subject,  which  he  made  to  the 
military  authorities.  He  was  detailed  for  this  duty  by  order  of  A.  Macomb, 
Major-General,  commanding  the  army,  dated  Hdqrs.  of  the  Army,  Washn.,  May 
gth,  1832,  and  proceeded  to  Fort  Brady,  Mich.,  with  a  detachment  consisting 
of  Corporal  Wibru,  and  Privates  Briscoe,  Beemis,  Burke,  Copp,  Button,  Ingram, 
Lentz,  Riley,  and  Wade,  of  the  5th  Infantry.  He  was  gone  June  6th-Aug. 
26th,  1832.  His  movements  were  the  same  as  Mr.  Schoolcraft's,  except  where 
the  latter  left  him  in  the  lurch  on  the  St.  Croix  ;  his  operations  more  extensive 
and  more  intelligently  directed  to  explore  and  report  upon  the  country.  He 
named  Schoolcraft  isl.  and  various  other  things  ;  Allen's  bay  was  named  for  him 
by  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  and  Allen's  1.  by  Mr.  Brower.  Allen  was  an  Ohio  man, 
appointed  from  Madison,  Jefferson  Co.,  Ind.,  cadet  at  West  Point,  July  ist, 
1825  ;  2d  lieut.  5th  Infantry,  July  1st,  1829  ;  2d  lieut.  1st  Dragoons,  Mar.  4th, 
1833  ;    1st  lieut.  May  31st,  1835  ;  capt.,  June  30th,  1837  ;  on  detached  service. 


ur  of  the 

Schoolcraft ; 
i  leave  it  the 
y  a  glance  at 
did  when  he 
mbina  by  the 
ished  at  New 
les  sources  du 
ince  been  ex- 
arrative,  etc., 
prior  explorer 
entleman  who 
3st  voluminous 
Itching,  finally 
,  for  renaming 
etc.,  Philada., 
:    forgave  Sig. 
he  done  so,  he 
nity,  vehement 
lis  all-wise  and 
to  endow  him. 
pp.   125-132  of 
ive  of  the  same 


JEAN  NICOLAS  NICOLLET.  333 

Cordeliers  [Cordilleras],  previous  to  our  finding  the  waters 

engineering  duty,  Chicago,  1837-38  ;  d.  suddenly  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  Kas., 
Aug.  22d  or  23d,  1846,  as  lieutenant-colonel  of  a  Mormon  battalion  of  volun- 
teer infantry  he  had  raised  to  re--!nforce  our  Army  of  the  West,  "  beloved  while 
living,  and  regretted  after  death,  by  all  who  knew  him,"  Hughes,  Doniphan's 
Exped.,  1B47,  p.  53.  His  valuable  Mississippi  report,  completed  at  Fort  Dear- 
born (Chicago),  Nov.  25th,  1833,  was  transmitted  to  Congr.  by  Hon.  Lewis 
Cass,  Sec.  of  War,  Apr.  nth,  1834,  and  published  in  Amer.  State  Papers, 
Class  V.  Milit.  Affairs,  V.  Ex.  Doc.  No.  579,  ist  Session,  23d  Congr.,  folio, 
pp.  312-344,  aid  map. 

The  illustrioi'.s  name  of  Jean  Nicolas  Nicollet  is  first  in  time  on  the  roll 
of  those  who  have  applied  modern  methods  of  exact  and  exacting  science  to  the 
geography  of  the  West.  Nicollet  is  most  highly  appreciated  by  those  who  are 
themselves  most  worthy  of  appreciation  and  most  competent  critics.  Thus, 
Gen.  G.  K.  Warren  pronounces  Nicollet's  map  "  one  of  the  greatest  contributions 
ever  made  to  American  geography."  It  will  stand  forever  as  the  sound  basis 
of  knowledge  on  the  subject.  Notices  of  Nicollet's  life  and  work  are  found  in  : 
Trans.  Assoc.  Amer.  Geol.  and  Nat.,  1840-42,  Boston,  1843,  pp.  32-34  ;  Amer. 
Journ.  Sci.,  1st  ser.,  XLVII.  p.  139,  sketch  by  Prof.  II.  D.  Rogers;  Minn. 
Hist.  Coll.,  I.  (of  1850-56),  2d  ed.  1872,  pp.  183-195,  memoir  by  Gen.  H.  H. 
Sibley  ;  VI.  1891,  pp.  242-245,  being  reminiscences  in  the  autobiography  of 
Maj.  Lawrence  Taliaferro  ;  and  VII.  1893,  pp.  155-165,  notice  by  J.  V.  Brower 
with  portrait;  Ann.  Rep.  Smiths.  Inst.,  1870,  p.  194;  Fremont's  Memoirs,  I. 
pp.  •yy-']2, passim;  notice  in  Educational  Reporter  Extra,  Oct.,  1886,  by  H.  D. 
Harrower  ;  and  especially  N.  H.  Winchell,  Amer.  Geol.,  VIII.  Dec,  1891,  pp. 
343-352,  with  portrait  and  best  biography.  N.  was  b.  at  Cluses  in  Savoy,  1790  ; 
d.  Baltimore,  Md.,  Sept.  nth,  1843.  He  was  a  watchmaker's  apprentice 
till  set.  1 3  ;  was  a  natural  musician  ;  studied  languages  and  mathematics,  and  in 
1818  published  an  article  which  became  noted  in  the  annals  of  insurance  for  its 
calculations  on  probable  duration  of  human  life  ;  he  wrote  others  of  similar 
character ;  1819  to  1828,  he  published  various  mathematical  and  ai.tronomical 
treatises  ;  was  decorated  in  1825  with  the  Cross  of  the  Legion  of  Honor ;  at  one 
time  held  a  professorship  in  the  Royal  College  of  Louis  Le  Grand  ;  was  also  an 
inspector  of  naval  schools  ;  he  was  in  high  esteem,  and  made  money.  But  the 
fickle  goddess  of  fortune  ceased  to  smile  ;  he  made  business  ventures  which 
failed,  and  cost  him  all  his  worldly  goods  and  all  his  fair-vveather  friends  ;  in 
1832  he  was  a  poor  refugee  in  the  United  States.  But  his  amiable  character, 
his  accomplishments,  his  great  talents,  and  greater  genius  were  more  conspicu- 
ous in  adversity  than  they  had  been  in  prosperity.  He  made  friends  every- 
where, among  them  some  in  high  stations,  able  to  estimate  his  abilities  and 
glad  to  use  his  services.  Under  the  auspices  of  the  War  Department,  and 
with  the  personal  attentions  of  such  men  as  Pierre  Chouteau,  Jr.,  Gen.  Sibley, 
and  Maj.  Taliaferro,  he  was  enabled  to  make,  1833-39,  those  several  explora- 
tions and  surveys  which  resulted  in  his  Map  and  Report — a  work  which  would 
have  done  credit  to  anyone  under  any  circumstances,  but  one  which  only  a 


I 

i 


:,     I 
t^    ! 


14^ ' 

|3     f      « 


334 


JEAN  NICOLAS  NICOLLET. 


whose  currents  run  westward  and  pay  tribute  to  the  western 
ocean. 

Nicollet  could  have  accomplished  under  the  actual  conditions.  In  1840  and 
1841  he  was  on  office  duty  in  Washington,  reducing  his  field-work  and  prepar- 
ing his  map,  which  latter  was  drawn  under  his  direction  by  Lieuts.  J.  C. 
Frdmont  and  E.  P.  Scammon.  This  was  completed  probably  in  1840,  as  it 
had  been  submitted  to  Congress  and  ordered  to  be  printed,  Feb.  l6th,  1841. 
But  the  hardships  he  had  endured  in  the  field  had  undermined  his  frail  phy- 
sique ;  the  further  drafts  upon  his  balance  of  vitality  were  overdrawn  ;  and  the 
fatal  blow  was  given  by  Arago,  who  defeated  his  election  to  the  French 
Academy.  "  Pas  meme  un  Academicien,"  this  great  soul  never  wore  the 
crown  of  his  life.  His  work  was  published  under  the  editorship  of  Gen.  J.  J. 
Abert,  to  whom  science  is  indebted  in  many  ways — perhaps  in  no  one  of  these 
more  than  in  the  recognition  of  the  merits  of  the  gentle  Savoyard,  and  conse- 
quently the  steps  he  took  to  facilitate  and  complete  Nicollet's  labors.  The 
publication  forms  Doc.  No.  237,  26th  Congr.,  2d  Session,  entitled  :  Report 
intended  to  illustrate  a  Map  of  the  Hydrographical  Basin  of  the  Upper  Miss- 
issippi River,  made  by  I.  [sic]  N.  Nicollet,  etc.,  i  vol,  8vo,  Washington,  Blair 
and  Rives,  1843,  pp.  1-170,  map,  30^  x  37  inches  ;  also  pub.  as  Ex.  Doc.  No. 
52,  Ho.  Reps.,  2d  Sess.,  28th  Congr.  The  report  is  officially  addressed  to 
Colonel  Abert ;  the  original  journals  and  other  MSS.  were  to  be  deposited  in 
the  Bureau  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers,  Sept.  13th,  1843.  I  have 
examined  the  original  map,  from  which  the  published  one  was  engraved,  not 
without  some  variant  lettering  here  and  there  ;  it  is  now  in  bad  condition,  very 
brittle,  and  would  soon  go  to  pieces  if  often  unrolled  without  great  care  in 
handling  it.  I  think  it  should  be  renovated,  without  delay,  and  put  in  the 
best  possible  condition  for  permanent  preservation. 

July  26th,  1836,  Nicollet  went  from  Fort  Snelling  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
with  Lieutenants  S.  N.  Plummer,  G.  W.  Shaw,  and  James  McClure,  to  see  him 
off  ;  29th,  he  was  o-scending  the  river ;  at  the  mouth  of  the  Crow  Wing  he  left 
the  Mississippi,  ascended  the  former  to  Gayashk  or  Gull  r.,  went  from  this  to 
Pine  r.,  visited  Kadikomeg  or  Whitefish  1.  thence  up  E.  fork  of  Pine  r.  to  Kwi- 
wisens  or  Boy  r.,  and  down  this  into  Leech  1.,  where  he  spent  a  week,  mostly 
camped  on  Otter  Tail  pt. ,  where  resided  his  principal  guide,  Francis  Brunet — 
"a  man  six  feet  three  inches  high — a  giant  of  great  strength,  but  at  the  same 
time  full  of  the  milk  of  human  kindness  and,  withal,  an  excellent  natural 
geographer."  He  found  here  Mr.  Boutwell,  who  was  good  enough  to  help  him 
out  of  some  sort  of  a  scrape  the  Chippewas  got  him  into.  He  left  Leech  1.  in 
a  bark  canoe  with  Brunet,  another  man  named  Desire,  and  a  Chippewa  whose 
name  he  renders  Kegwedzissag,  since  spelled  Gaygwedosay  and  applied  to  a 
creek  which  runs  into  present  Elk  1.  He  crossed  several  small  lakes  and  came 
to  one  he  calls  Kabe-Konang — not  the  same  as  Schoolcraft's  Kubba  Kunna, 
which  latter  is  the  one  S.  called  Lake  Plantagenet,  and  is  on  Nicollet's  Laplace  r. 
He  continued  up  Kabekonang  r.,  made  a  5-m.  portage  to  Laplace  r.  (which 
is  also  called  Naiwa,  Yellow  Head,  and  Schoolcraft's  r.,  being  the  Plantag- 


JEAN  NICOLAS   NICOLLET. 


33S 


the  western 


;.     In  1840  and 
)rk  and  prepar- 
y  Lieuts.  J.  C. 
y  in  1840,  as  it 
Feb.  i6th,  1841. 
d  liis  frail  phy- 
drawn  ;  and  the 
I   to  the  French 
never  wore  the 
lip  of  Gen.  J.  J. 
n  no  one  of  these 
yard,  and  conse- 
t's  labors.      The 
ntitled  :     Report 
the  Upper  Miss- 
Vashington,  Blair 

as  Ex.  Uoc.  No. 
ally  addressed  to 
3  be  deposited  in 
th,  1843.  I  have 
vas  engraved,  not 
id  condition,  very 
out  great  care  in 

,  and  put  in  the 

Is  of  St.  Anthony, 
:Clure,  to  see  him 
row  Wing  he  left 
vent  from  this  to 
jf  Pine  r.  to  Kwi- 
it  a  week,  mostly 
Francis  Brunei— 
but  at  the  same 
excellent  natural 
lough  to  help  him 
left  Leech  1.  in 
Chippewa  whose 
and  applied  to  a 
1  lakes  and  came 
Kubba  Kunna, 
collet's  Laplace  r. 
.aplace  r.  (which 
ing  the  Plantag- 


In   this  quarter  we   find   moose,   a  very  few  deer  and 

enet  fork  of  the  Miss,  r.),  and  ascended  it  to  a  position  i  m.  south  of  Assawa  1., 
where  he  found  the  traces  of  a  camp  used  four  years  before  by  the  Schoolcraft 
party.  Next  morning  he  was  up  at  4.30,  preparing  for  the  6-m.  portage  to 
Lake  Itasca  across  the  Big  Burning — by  no  means  an  easy  tiling  ;  the  ground 
was  very  bad,  and  the  mosquitoes  as  bad  as  they  knew  how  tu  be.  Brunei  carried 
the  canoe,  weighing  110-115  lbs.;  Desire  and  Kegwedzissag  had  each  a  load  of 
85-90  lbs. ;  while  poor  Nicollet  had  a  full  burden  in  proportion  to  the  powers 
of  the  slight  and  frail  body  that  was  so  soon,  alas  !  to  fail  him  altogether.  "  I 
had  about  35  pounds'  weight  unequally  distributed  upon  my  body.  .  .  I  carried 
my  sextant  on  my  back  in  a  leather  case  thrown  over  me  as  a  knapsack  ;  then 
my  barometer  slung  over  my  left  shoulder  ;  my  cloak  tiirown  over  tlic  same 
shoulder  confined  the  barometer  closely  against  the  sextant  ;  a  portfolio  under 
the  arm  ;  a  basket  in  hand  which  contained  my  thermometer,  chronometer, 
pocket  compass,  artificial  horizon,  tape-line,  &c.  On  the  right  side,  a  spy-glass, 
powder-flask,  and  shot-bag  ;  and  in  my  hand  a  gun  or  an  umbrella  accord- 
ing to  circumstances.  Such  was  my  accoutrement."  Though  Nicollet  esti- 
mated his  load  at  only  35  pounds,  it  was  an  awkward  one  to  manage,  and  more 
than  he  should  have  undertaken  to  carry  through  such  a  place  ;  his  head  swam 
more  than  once,  he  lost  his  way,  got  bogged  several  times,  and  only  extricated 
himself  by  scrambling  along  sli[)pery  and  decayed  tree-trunks.  However,  he 
reached  Itasca  safely,  two  hours  after  the  rest,  pitched  his  tent  on  the  island, 
and  proceeded  to  adjust  his  artificial  horizon.  During  the  three  days  spent  in 
exploring  the  basin  he  made  those  minute  and  precise  observations  which  will 
forever  associate  his  honored  name  with  Mississippian  discovery.  His  approach 
to  the  spot  duplicated  Mr.  Schoolcraft's  ;  but  the  comparison  need  not  be 
pushed  further — it  cannot  be.  Nicollet's  return  was  by  way  of  the  main  stream 
to  Lake  Cass  and  thence  to  Leech  1. — where,  by  the  way,  he  had  a  conference 
with  that  sagacious  savage  Eshkibogikoj,  otherwise  Gueule  Platte  or  Flat  Mouth, 
with  whom  he  took  tea  "out  of  fine  china-ware"  and  spent  evenings  "  full  of 
instruction."  Of  the  fine  work  he  did  at  Lake  Itasca,  I  must  quote  his  own 
modest  words  :  "  The  honor  of  having  first  explored  the  sources  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  introduced  a  knowledge  of  them  in  physical  geography,  belongs  to  Mr. 
Schoolcraft  and  Lieutenant  Allen.  I  come  only  after  these  gentleman  ;  but  I 
may  be  permitted  to  claim  some  merit  for  having  completed  what  was  wanting 
for  a  full  geographical  account  of  these  sources.  Moreover,  I  am,  I  believe,  the 
first  traveler  who  has  carried  with  him  astronomical  instruments,  and  put  them 
to  profitable  account  along  the  whole  course  of  the  Mississippi,  from  its  mouth 
to  its  sources."  He  might  well  have  claimed  more  than  this  ;  for,  aside  from  all 
topographic  and  hydrographic  details,  what  he  discovered,  determined,  and 
described  was  the  Mississippi  itself  above  Lake  Itasca.  His  praise  is  greatest 
in  the  mouths  of  wisest  censure,  and  for  once  in  the  history  of  discovery  no 
one  withholds  from  modest  merit  and  signal  achievement  their  just  dues. 

The  length  of  this  note  warns  me  to  resist  th'    temptation  to  pursue  post- 
Nicolletian  exploration  and  touring — through  tlie  names  of  Charles  Lanman, 


::i 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


&o 


Z 


C/. 


:/. 


1.0 


I.I 


If:  liM  llM 
IIIIM 

142    iilM 


IL25  II  1.4 


6" 


1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


z 


336 


POST-NICOLLETIAN  EXPLORERS. 


bear,  but  a  vast  variety  of  fur  animals  of  all  descrip- 
tions. 

1846  ;  Kev.  Frederick  Ayer  and  son,  1849  ;  Wm.  Bungo,  1865  ;  Julius Chambtrs, 
of  the  New  York  Herald's  "  Dolly  Varden"  expedition,  iC7a  ;  James  H.  Baker, 
in  official  capacities,  1875-79  ;  Edwin  S.  Hall,  U.  S.  surveyor,  1875  ;  A.  H.  Sieg- 
fried, representing  the  Louisville  Couriei -Journal's  "  Rob  Roy"  expedition, 
1C.79  ;  O.  E.  Gairison,  1880  ;  W.  E.  Neal,  1880  and  1881  ;  Rev.  J.  A.  GilfiWan 
and  Prof.  Cooke,  in  May,  1881.  the  same  year  that  one  X.  Y.  3.  exploited  his 
fraud — to  that  of  J.  V.  Brower,  1888-9.$.  The  scandalous  episode  in  a  record 
otherwise  honorable  to  all  concerned  may  be  read  in  all  its  unsavory  particulars 
in  the  able  exposes  made  by  Mr.  H.  D.  Harrower,  entitled  :  Captain  Glazier 
and  his  Lake,  etc.,  pub.  Ivison,  Blakeman,  Taylor  and  Co.,N.  Y.,  Oct.,  1886, 
pp.  1-58,  with  9  maps  ;  by  Mr.  Hopewell  Clarke,  in  Science  and  Education,  L 
No  8,  Dec.  24th,  1886,  pp.  45-57,  y'lth  5  maps ;  by  Hon.  James  H.  Baker,  in 
the  report  entitled  :  The  Sources  of  the  Mississippi.  Their  Discoveries,  real 
and  pretended,  read  before  the  Minn.  His.  Soc.,  Feb.  8th,  1887,  and  pub- 
lished as  Vol.  VL,  Pt,  I,  of  that  society's  Collections,  pp.  38  ;  and  by  Commis- 
sioner Brower,  pp.  191-209  of  his  elaborate  and  exhaustive  monograph,  pub. 
1893,  to  which  I  am  grer.tly  indebted,  and  to  which  reference  should  be  made 
for  further  details,  whether  in  the  history  or  the  geography  of  the  Mississippian 
sources.  Nicollet  is  the  pivotal  point  upon  which  the  whole  matter  turns  from 
Morrison  to  Browei,  1 804-1894. 

Some  Additional  Facts  about  Nicollet,  not  given  on  my  foregoing  pages, 
maybe  found  in  Horace  V.  Winchell's  article,  Amer.  Geologist,  Vol.  XIII, 
pp.  126-128,  Feb.,  1894.  Tne  date  of  birth  is  there  given  as  July  24th,  1786 
(not  1790);  the  name,  as  Joseph  (not  Jeas)  Nicolas  Nicollet;  and  the  place 
of  death,  as  Washington,  D.  C.  (not  Baltimore,  Md.) ;  the  date  is  the  same — 
Sept.  nth,  1843 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


ETHNOGRAPHY  OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 


'^'HE  first  nation  of  Indians  whom  we  met  with  in  as- 
^^  cending  the  Mississippi  from  St.  Louis  were  th-  Sauks, 
who  principally  reside  in  four  villages.  The  first  at  the 
head  of  the  rapids  De  Moyen  on  the  W.  shore,  consisting  of 
13  log  lodges;  the  second  on  a  prairie  on  the  E.  shore, 
about  60  miles  above ;  the  third  on  the  Riviere  De  Roche, 
about  three  miles  from  the  entrance  ;  and  the  fourth  on  the 
river  Iowa. 

They  hunt  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  confluent  streams, 
from  the  Illinois  to  the  river  Des  Iowa;  and  on  the  plains 
west  of  them,  which  border  the  Missouri.  They  are  so  per- 
fectly consolidated  with  the  Reynards'  that  they  scarcely 

•  As  explained  in  note  ',  p.  287,  this  chapter  is  that  part  of  Doc.  No.  18 
which  relates  to  the  Indians,  running  pp.  56-66  and  folder,  without  break  in  the 
text  of  p.  56  from  the  geographical  matter.  But  its  separation  seems  desir- 
able, and  I  accordingly  make  a  chapter  for  its  accommodation.  There  is  no 
change  in  the  sequence  of  the  matter. 

'  The  Sacs  and  Foxes  have  a  curious  history,  perhaps  not  exactly  paral- 
leled by  that  of  any  other  tribes  whatever.  The  names  are  linked  insepa- 
rably from  the  earliest  times  to  the  present  day.  Each  has  always  been  to  the 
other  what  neither  of  them  has  ever  been  to  any  other  Indians  or  to  any  whites — 
friend.  The  entire  composure  with  which  we  have  been  able  to  speak  of  Sacs 
and  Foxes  in  c*r  day  and  generation  is  the  reverse  of  the  frame  of  mind  which 
many  persons  now  living  can  recall  as  having  been  once  theirs,  before  the  final 
subju;iation  of  these  capricious,  turbulent,  and  enterprising  tribes  in  trans-Miss- 
issippian  territory.  They  are  Algonquian  Indians  who  can  be  traced  in  blood 
from  Lake  Ontario  westward,  along  the  gauntlet  they  ran  from  Ontarian  Can- 
ada to  the  final  burying-grounds  of  their  hatchets  in  Iowa,  Kansas,  and  the 
Indian  Territory.  They  fought  everybody  in  their  way — French,  English,  and 
American  in  turn,  as  well  as  perhaps  every  Indian  tribe  they  encountered.  They 
were  alternately  friends  and  foes  of  each  of  the  two  principal  nations  whose  lands 
they  overran — their  Algonquian  relations  the  Chippewas,  and  their  natural  ene- 
mies the  Sioux,  thus  at  times  turning  the  balance  of  power  between  these  two 

337 


338 


SACS  AND  FOXES. 


can  be  termed  a  distinct  nation ;  but  recently  there  appears 
to  be  a  schism  between  the  two  nations,  the  latter  not  ap- 
proving of  the  insolence  and  ill-will  which  has  marked  the 
conduct  of  the  former  toward  the  United  States  on  many- 
late  occurrences.  They  have  for  many  years  past,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Sioux,  made  war  on  the  Sauteaux, 
Osages,  and  Missouries ;  but  as  recently  a  peace  has  been 
made  between  them  and  the  nations  of  the  Missouri  through 
the  influence  of  the  United  States,  and  by  the  same  means 
between  the  Sioux  and  Sauteaux,  ':heir  principal  allies,  it  ap- 
pears that  it  would  by  no  means  be  a  difficult  matter  to 
induce  them  to  make  a  general  peace,  and  pay  still  greater 
attention  to  the  cultivation  of  the  earth  ;  as  they  now  raise 
a  considerable  quantity  of  corn,  Jeans,  and  melons.    The 


hereditary  foes.  They  inhabited  at  times  many  places  along  the  Great  Lakes 
and  westward,  and  the  present  names  of  not  a  few  are  directly  traceable  to  such 
occupancy.  They  were  specially  identified  with  the  histories  of  Wisconsin,  Min- 
nesota, and  Illinois  for  more  than  a  hundred  years.  Carver  speaks  of  their  vil- 
lages on  the  Wisconsin  r.  in  1766,  after  they  had  been  expelled  from  the  Green 
Bay  and  Fox  River  region.  They  appear  to  have  been  driven  from  the  St.  Croix 
by  the  decisive  battle  at  tlie  Falls,  in  which  they  were  defeated  by  the  Chippe- 
was  under  Waboji  (d.  1793).  Writing  of  1832,  Schoolcraft  speaks  of  their 
recent  residences  on  Rock  r.,  and  their  confinement  west  of  the  Mississippi 
by  the  then  latest  tragic  act  in  their  history.  This  was  the  decisive  battle  of 
the  Bad  Axe  in  1832  :  see  note  *',  p.  45.  The  Foxes  are  located  on  the  old 
maps  under  some  form  of  their  Chippewan  name  Otagami ;  they  were  also 
called  Miskwakis  or  Red  Earths  ;  their  F.  name  Reynard,  which  we  translate 
Fox,  and  sometimes  Dog  or  Wolf,  was  an  opprobrious  nickname  or  nom  de 
guerre.  The  Indian  name  Osagi,  Osawki,  Osaukee,  Sauk,  Sac,  Sacque,  etc. ,  is 
by  some  said  to  signify  the  erratic  propensities  of  the  tribe  which  bears  it,  mean- 
ing migrants,  or  those  who  went  out  of  the  land  :  for  a  probably  better  defini- 
tion, see  note  '*,  p.  loi.  The  survivors  of  both  tribes  scarcely  number  1,000. 
Le  Bras  Cass^,  or  Broken  Arm,  was  a  Sac  chief  whom  Pike  names  Pock- 
quinike  in  his  folding  Table  of  the  Foxes  and  other  Indians,  He  was  a  noted 
character,  whose  name  turns  up  in  various  published  accounts.  He  figures,  for 
example,  in  the  Relation,  etc.,  of  Perreault,  on  the  scene  of  the  assassination  of 
Mr.  Kay  at  Sandy  Lake,  May  3d,  1785,  by  Le  Cousin  and  his  mother,  both  of 
whom  knifed  their  victim.  Le  Cousin  was  promptly  stabbed  by  Feebyain  or 
Le  Petit  Mort,  a  friend  of  Kay's,  and  Brasse  Casse  (as  Mr.  Schoolcraft  spells 
his  name)  took  Kay  in  hand  to  cure  him  ;  but  the  wound  proved  fatal  Aug. 
a6th,  1785. 


SACS  AND  FOXES— lOWAS. 


339 


e  appears 
;r  not  ap- 
arked  the 
i  on  many 
ast,  under 
Sauteaux, 
e  has  been 
uri  through 
ime  means 
allies,  it  ap- 
t  matter  to 
still  greater 
;y  now  raise 
elons.    The 

the  Great  Lakes 
traceable  to  such 
Wisconsin,  Min- 
eaks  of  their  vil- 
from  the  Green 
•om  the  St.  Croix 
by  the  Chippe- 
speaks  of  their 
the  Mississippi 
lecisive  battle  of 
:ated  on  the  old 
they  were  also 
lich  we  translate 
lamc  or  nom  de 
:,  Sacque,  etc.,  is 
[h  bears  it,  mean- 
jly  better  defini- 
ly  number  i,ooo. 
|ke  names  Pock- 
He  was  a  noted 
He  figures,  for 
assassination  of 
mother,  both  of 
by  Feebyain  or 
ichoolcraft  spells 
)roved  faUl  Aug. 


character  that  they  bear  with  their  savage  brethren  is  that 
they  are  much  more  to  be  dreaded  for  their  deceit  and 
inclination  for  stratagem  than  for  their  open  courage. 

The  Reynards  reside  in  three  villages.  The  first  is  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  six  miles  above  the  rapids  of  the 
River  De  Roche  ;  the  second  is  about  12  miles  in  the  rear  of 
the  lead  mines ;  and  the  third  is  on  Turkey  river,  half  a 
league  from  its  entrance.  They  are  engaged  in  the  same 
wars  and  have  the  same  alliances  as  the  Sauks,  with  whom 
they  must  be  considered  as  indissoluble  in  war  or  peace. 
They  hunt  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi  from  the  Iowa, 
below  Prairie  Des  Chiens  to  a  river  of  that  name  [Upper 
Iowa],  above  said  village.  They  raise  a  great  quantity  of 
corn,  beans,  and  melons ;  the  former  of  those  articles  in  such 
quantities  as  to  sell  many  hundred  bushels  per  annum. 

The  lowas  reside  on  the  De  Moyen  and  Iowa  rivers  in  two 
villages.  They  hunt  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  the 
De  Moyen,  and  westward  to  the  Missouri ;  their  wars  and 
alliances  are  the  same  as  those  of  the  Sauks  and  Reynards, 
under  whose  special  protection  they  conceive  themselves  to 
be.  They  cultivate  some  corn,  but  not  .so  much  in  propor- 
tion as  the  Sauks  and  Reynards.  Their  residence  being  on 
the  small  streams  in  the  rear  of  the  Mississippi,  out  of  the 
highroad  of  commerce,  renders  them  less  civilized  than 
those  nations. 

The  Sauks,  Reynards,  and  lowas,  since  the  treaty  of  the 
two  former  with  the  United  States  [in  1804],  claim  the 
land  from  the  entrance  of  the  Jauflioni  [see  note  '*,  p.  n], 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  up  the  latter  river  to  the 
Des  Iowa,  above  Prairie  Des  Chiens,  and  westward  to  the 
Missouri ;  but  the  limits  between  themselves  are  undefined. 
All  the  land  formerly  claimed  by  those  nations  E.  of  the 
Mississippi  is  now  ceded  to  the  United  States;  but  they 
have  reserved  to  themselves  the  privilege  of  hunting  and 
residing  on  it,  as  usual. 

By  killing  the  celebrated  Sauk  chief  Pontiac,  the  Illinois, 
Cahokias,  Kaskaskias,  and  Piorias  kindled  a  war  with  the 


r 


340 


WINNEBAGOES— MENOMONEES. 


allied  nations  of  Sauks  and  Reynards,  which  has  been  the 
cause  of  the  almost  entire  destruction  of  the  former  nations. 

The  Winebagos  or  Puants  are  a  nation  who  reside  on  the 
rivers  Ouiscousing,  De  Roche,  Fox,  and  Green  Bay,  in  seven 
villages,  which  are  situated  as  follows :  1st,  at  the  entrance 
of  Green  Bay ;  2d,  at  the  end  of  Green  Bay ;  3d,  at  Wuckan 
[Lake  Poygan],  on  Fox  river ;  4th,  at  Lake  Puckway ;  5th, 
at  the  portage  of  the  Ouiscousing ;  6th  and  7th,  on  Roche 
river. 

Those  villages  are  so  situated  that  the  Winebagos  can 
embody  the  whole  force  of  their  nation,  at  any  one  point  of 
their  territory,  in  four  days.  They  hunt  on  the  Ouiscousing 
and  Rock  rivers,  and  E.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  from  Rock 
river  to  Prairie  Des  Chiens ;  on  Lake  Michigan,  Black  river, 
and  in  the  country  between  Lakes  Michigan,  Huron,  and 
Superior.  From  the  tradition  amongst  them,  and  their 
speaking  the  same  language  as  the  Otos  of  the  Riviere 
Platte,  I  am  confident  in  asserting  that  they  are  a  nation 
who  have  emigrated  from  Mexico  to  avoid  the  oppression 
of  the  Spaniards ;  and  the  time  may  be  fixed  at  about  I  ^ 
centuries  past,  when  they  were  taken  under  the  protection 
of  the  Sioux,  to  whom  they  still  profess  to  owe  faith,  and  at 
least  brotherly  attention.  They  have  formerly  been  at  war 
with  the  nations  west  of  the  Mississippi,  but  appear  recently 
to  have  laid  down  the  hatchet.  They  are  reputed  brave, 
but  from  every  circumstance  their  neighbors  distinguish 
their  bravery  as  the  ferocity  of  a  tiger,  rather  than  the  de- 
liberate resolution  of  a  man  ;  and  recently  their  conduct  has 
been  such  as  to  authorize  the  remark  made  by  a  chief  of  a 
neighboring  nation,  that  "a  white  man  never  should  lie 
down  to  sleep  without  precaution  in  their  villages." 

The  Menomene  or  Fols  Avoins,  as  they  are  termed  by  the 
French,  reside  in  seven  villages,  situated  as  follows  :  ist,  at 
the  Menomene  river,  1 5  leagues  from  Green  Bay,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  lake ;  2d,  at  Green  Bay ;  3d,  at  Little  Kakalin  ; 
4th,  at  portage  of  Kakalin  ;  5th,  on  Stinking  Lake  [Winne- 
bago] ;  6th,  at  the  entrance  of  a  small  lake  [Lac  Butte  des 


MENOMON  EES — SIOU  X. 


341 


5  been  the 
ler  nations, 
side  on  the 
ly,  in  seven 
he  entrance 
,  at  Wuckan 
:kway;  S^h. 
1,  on  Roche 

lebagos  can 
one  point  of 
Ouiscousing 
,  from  Rock 
,  Black  river, 
,  Huron,  and 
1,  and  their 
the  Riviere 
are  a  nation 
le  oppression 
at  about  ij4 
he  protection 
faith,  and  at 
been  at  war 
pear  recently 
eputed  brave, 
distinguish 
than  the  de- 
r  conduct  has 
y  a  chief  of  a 

er  should  lie 

I* 
ges. 

ermed  by  the 

lows:     I  St,  at 

',  on  the  north 

ttle  Kakalin ; 

ake  [Winne- 

ac  Butte  des 


s 


Morts]  on  Fox  river;  and  7th,  behind  the  Bank  of  the 
Dead  [Butte  des  Morts].  Their  hunting-grounds  are  sim- 
ilar to  those  of  the  Winebagos ;  only  that,  owing  to  the 
very  high  estimation  in  which  they  are  held  both  by  Sioux 
and  Chipeways,  they  are  frequently  permitted  to  hunt  near 
Raven  river  on  the  Mississippi,  which  may  be  termed  the 
battle-ground  between  those  two  great  nations.  The  lan- 
guage which  they  speak  is  singular,  for  no  white  man  has 
ever  yet  been  known  to  acquire  it ;  but  this  may  probably 
be  attributed  to  their  understanding  the  Algonquin,  in  which 
they  and  the  Winebagos  transact  all  conferences  with  the 
whites  or  other  nations ;  and  the  facility  with  which  that 
language  is  acquired  is  a  further  reason  for  its  prevalence. 

The  Fols  Avoins,  although  a  small  nation,  are  respectea 
by  all  their  neighbors  for  their  bravery  and  independent 
spirit,  and  esteemed  by  the  whites  as  their  friends  and  pro- 
tectors. When  in  the  country  I  heard  their  chief  assert  in 
council  with  the  Sioux  and  Chipeways,  that  although  they 
were  reduced  to  few  in  number,  yet  they  could  say,  "  we 
never  were  slaves,"  as  they  had  always  preferred  that  their 
women  and  children  should  die  by  their  own  hands,  to  their 
being  led  into  slavery  by  their  enemies.  The  boundary  of 
their  territory  is  uncertain.  The  Sauks,  Reynards,  Puants, 
and  Menomenes  all  reside,  when  not  at  their  villages,  in 
lodges  in  the  form  of  an  ellipsis ;  some  are  from  30  to  40  feet 
in  length  by  14  or  15  wide,  and  are  sufficiently  large  to 
shelter  60  people  from  the  storm,  or  for  20  to  reside  in. 
Their  covering  is  rushes  plaited  into  mats,  and  carefully 
tied  to  the  poles.  In  the  center  are  the  fires,  immediately 
over  which  is  a  small  vacancy  in  the  lodge,  which  in  fair 
weather  is  sufficient  to  give  vent  to  the  smoke  ;  but  in  bad 
weather  you  must  lie  down  on  the  ground  to  prevent  being 
considerably  incommoded  by  it. 

We  next  come  to  that  powerful  nation  the  Sioux,  the 
dread  of  whom  is  extended  over  all  the  Savage  nations,  from 
the  confluence  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  to  Raven 
river  on  the  former,  and  to  the  Snake  [Shoshone]  Indians 


I 


343 


SIOUX. 


on  the  latter.  But  in  those  limits  are  many  nations  whom 
they  consider  as  allies,  on  a  similar  footing  with  the  allies  of 
ancient  Rome,  i.  e.,  humble  dependents.  But  the  Chipeway 
nation  is  an  exception,  who  have  maintained  a  long  contest 
with  them,  owing  to  their  country  being  intersected  by  nu- 
merous small  lakes,  water-courses,  impenetrable  morasses,  and 
swamps ;  and  have  hitherto  bid  defiance  to  all  the  attacks  of 
their  neighbors.  It  is  necessary  to  divide  the  Sioux  nation 
into  the  different  bands,  as  distinguished  amongst  them- 
selves, in  order  to  have  a  correct  idea  of  them. 

Agreeably  to  this  plan,  I  shall  begin  with  the  Minowa 
Kantong  [Mdewakantonwans]  or  Gens  De  Lac,  who  extend 
from  Prairie  Des  Chiens  to  La  Prairie  du  Francois  [vicinity 
of  Shakopee,  Chaska,  etc.],  35  miles  up  the  St.  Peters.  This 
band  is  again  subdivided  into  four  divisions,  under  different 
chiefs.  The  first  of  these  most  generally  reside  at  their  vil- 
lage on  the  Upper  Iowa  river,  above  Prairie  Des  Chiens,  and 
are  commanded  by  Wabasha,  a  chief  whose  father  was  con- 
sidered as  the  first  chief  of  all  the  Sioux  nation.  This  sub- 
-division  hunts  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  con- 
fluent streams,  from  Prairie  Des  Chiens  to  the  riviere  du 
Bceuf.  The  second  subdivision  resides  near  the  head  of  Lake 
Pepin,  and  hunts  from  the  riviere  du  Boeuf  to  near  the  St. 
Croix.  Their  chief's  name  is  I'antangamani — a  very  cele- 
brated war-chief.  The  third  subdivision  resides  between  the 
riviere  au  Canon  and  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters,  headed 
by  Chatewaconamani.  Their  principal  hunting-ground  is  on 
the  St.  Croix.  They  have  a  village  [Kapoja]  at  a  place 
called  Grand  Marais  [Pig's  Eye  lake],  1 5  miles  below  the  en- 
trance of  the  St.  Peters.  It  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  consists  of  1 1  log  huts.  The  fourth 
subdivision  is  situated  from  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters 
to  the  Prairie  Des  Francois ;  they  are  headed  by  a  chief 
called  Chatamutah,  but  a  young  man,  Wyaganage,  has 
recently  taken  the  lead  in  all  the  councils  and  affairs  of  state 
of  this  sub-band.  They  have  one  village,  nine  miles  up  the 
St.  Peters,  on  the  N.  side.    This  band  (Minowa  Kantong) 


SIOUX. 


343 


ions  whom 
the  allies  of 
e  Chipeway 
ang  contest 
cted  by  nu- 
lorasses.and 
tie  attacks  of 
;ioux  nation 
ongst  them- 

the  Minowa 
,  who  extend 
cois  [vicinity 
Peters.  This 
nder  different 
le  at  their  vil- 
:s  Chiens,  and 
ther  was  con- 
m.    This  sub- 
)i  and  its  con- 
he  riviere  du 
head  of  Lake 
)  near  the  St. 
— a  very  cele- 
s  between  the 
'eters,  headed 
-ground  is  on 
[a]  at  a  place 
below  the  en- 
east  bank  of 
The  fourth 
|the  St.  Peters 
led  by  a  chief 
aganage,  has 
[affairs  of  state 
.  miles  up  the 
,wa  Kantong) 


are  reputed  the  bravest  of  all  the  Sioux,  and  have  for  years 
been  opposed  to  the  Fols  Avoin  Sauteurs,  who  are  reputed 
the  bravest  of  all  the  numerous  bands  of  Chipeways. 

The  second  band  of  Sioux  are  the  Washpetong  [Waqpe- 
tonwan]  or  Gens  Des  Fieulles  [Feuilles],  who  inhabit  the 
country  from  the  Prairie  De  Francois  to  near  Roche  Blanche, 
on  the  St.  Peters.  Their  first  chief  i^^  Wasonquianni.  They 
hunt  on  the  St.  Peters,  also  on  the  Mississippi,  up  Rum 
river,  and  sometimes  follow  the  buffalo  on  the  plains.  Their 
subdivisions  I  am  unacquainted  with. 

The  third  band  are  the  Sussitongs  [Sisitonwans  or  Sisse« 
tons]  ;  they  extend  from  the  Roche  Blanche  [White  Rock] 
to  Lac  de  Gross  Roche  [Big  Stone  or  Inyantonka  lake],  on 
the  river  St.  Peters ;  they  are  divided  into  two  subdivisions. 
The  first,  called  the  Cawrees  [Kahras],  are  headed  by  the 
chief  called  Wuckiew  Nutch  or  Tonnere  Rouge  [Red  Thun- 
der]. The  second,  the  Sussitongs  proper,  are  headed  by 
Wacantoe  or  Esprit  Blue  [Blue  Spirit].  These  two  sub- 
bands  hunt  eastward  to  the  Mississippi,  and  up  that  river 
as  far  as  the  Riviere  De  Corbeau. 

The  fourth  great  band  are  the  Yanctongs  [Ihanktonwans 
or  Yanktons],  who  are  dispersed  from  the  Montaignes 
[Coteau]  De  la  Prairie,  which  extends  from  St.  Peters  to  the 
Missouri,  to  the  De  Moyen.  They  are  divided  into  two 
grand  divisions,  generally  termed  Yanctongs  of  the  North, 
and  Yanctongs  of  the  South  [Yanktonnais  and  Yanktons]. 
The  former  are  headed  by  a  chief  called  Muckpeanutah  or 
Nuage  Rouge  [Red  Cloud] ;  and  those  of  the  Prairie,  by 
Petessung.  This  band  are  never  stationary,  but  with  the 
Titongs  are  the  most  erratic  of  all  the  Sioux,  sometimes  to 
be  found  on  the  borders  of  the  Lower  Red  River,  some- 
times on  the  Missouri,  and  on  those  immense  plains  which 
are  between  the  two  rivers. 

The  fifth  great  band  are  the  Titongs  [Titonwans,  com- 
monly called  Tetons],  who  are  dispersed  on  both  sides  of 
the  Missouri ;  on  the  north,  principally  from  the  river  Chi- 
enne  [Cheyenne]  up ;  and  on  the  south,  from  the  Mahas 


344 


SIOUX. 


[Omahas]  to  the  Minetares,  or  Gross  Ventres  [Hidatsas]. 
They  may  be  divided  into  the  Titongs  of  the  North  and 
South  ;  but  the  immense  plains  over  which  they  rove  with 
the  Yanctongs  renders  it  impossible  to  point  out  their  place 
of  habitation. 

The  sixth,tlast,  and  smallest  band  of  the  Sioux  are  the 
Washpecoute  [Waqpekute  or  Wahkpakotoan],  who  reside 
generally  on  the  lands  west  of  the  Mississippi,  between 
that  river  and  the  Missouri.  They  hunt  most  generally 
on  the  head  of  the  De  Moyen.  They  appeared  to  me  to 
be  the  most  stupid  and  inactive  of  all  the  Sioux. 

The  Minowa  Kantongs  are  the  only  band  of  Sioux  who 
use  canoes,  and  by  far  the  most  civilized,  being  the  only 
ones  who  have  ever  built  log  huts,  or  cultivated  any  spe- 
cies of  vegetables,  and  among  those  only  a  very  small  quan- 
tity of  corn  and  beans ;  for,  although  I  was  with  them  in 
September  or  October,  I  never  saw  one  kettle  of  either, 
they  always  using  wild  oats  for  bread.  This  production 
nature  has  furnished  to  all  the  most  uncultivated  nations 
of  the  N.  W.  continent,  who  may  gather  in  autumn  a  suf- 
ficiency which,  when  added  to  the  productions  of  the  chase 
and  the  net,  insures  them  a  subsistence  through  all  the 
seasons  of  the  year.  This  band  is  entirely  armed  with  fire- 
arms, but  is  not  considered  by  the  other  bands  as  anything 
superior  on  that  account,  especially  on  the  plains. 

The  Washpetong  are  a  roving  band  ;  they  leave  the  St. 
Peters  in  the  month  of  April,  and  do  not  return  from  the 
plains  until  the  middle  of  August.  The  Sussitongs  of  Roche 
Blanche  have  the  character  of  being  the  most  evil-disposed 
Indians  on  the  St.  Peters.  They  likewise  follow  the  bufFalo 
in  the  spring  and  summer  months.  The  Sussitongs  of  Lac 
'le  Gross  Roche  [Big  Stone  Lake],  under  Tonnere  Rouge, 
have  the  character  of  good  hunters  and  brave  warriors,  which 
may  principally  be  attributed  to  their  chief,  Tonnere  Rouge, 
who  at  the  present  day  is  allowed  by  both  white  people  and 
the  savages  of  the  different  bands  to  be  (after  their  own  chiefs) 
the  first  man  in  the  Sioux  nation.    The  Yanctongs  and 


SIOUX. 


345 


[Hidatsas]. 
e  North  and 
ey  rove  with 
it  their  place 

ioux  are  the 
I,  who  reside 
ppi,  between 
lost  generally 
red  to  me  to 

IX. 

of  Sioux  who 
►eing  the  only 
rated  any  spe- 
ry  small  quan- 
,  with  them  in 
ttle  of  either, 
his  production 
tivated  nations 
autumn  a  suf- 
is  of  the  chase 
irough  all   the 
rmed  with  fire- 
ds  as  anything 
ains. 

f  leave  the  St. 
turn  from  the 
;ongs  of  Roche 
It  evil-disposed 
low  the  buffalo 
[sitongs  of  Lac 
•nnere  Rouge, 
arriors,  which 
onnere  Rouge, 
lite  people  and 
leir  own  chiefs) 
anctongs  and 


Titongs  are  the  most  independent  Indians  in  the  world; 
they  follow  the  buffalo  as  chance  directs,  clothing  them- 
selves with  the  skins,  and  making  their  lodges,  bridles,  and 
saddles  of  the  same  materials,  the  flesh  of  the  animal  fur- 
nishing their  food.  Possessing  innumerable  herds  of  horses, 
they  are  here  this  day,  500  miles  off  ten  days  hence,  and 
find  themselves  equally  at  home  in  either  place,  moving  with 
a  rapidity  scarcely  to  be  imagined  by  the  inhabitants  of  the 
civilized  world. 

The  trade  of  the  Minowa  Kantongs,  Washpetongs,  Sussi- 
tongs,  and  part  of  the  Yanctongs,  is  all  derived  from  the 
traders  of  Michilimackinac ;  and  the  latter  of  those  two 
bands  supply  the  Yanctongs  of  the  North  and  Titongs  with 
the  small  quantities  of  iron  works  [hardware]  which  they 
require.  Firearms  are  not  in  much  estimation  with  them. 
The  Washpecoute  trade  principally  with  the  people  of 
Prairie  Des  Chiens ;  but  for  a  more  particular  explanation  of 
this  subject,  please  to  refer  to  the  table.' 

*  Folding  Table  F  of  the  orig.  ed.,  facing  p.  66  of  the  App.  to  Ft.  i,  with  a 
part  of  it,  which  the  printer  could  not  get  on  the  sheet,  overrun  as  p.  66  of  the 
main  text,  headed  "  Recapitulation."  In  the  present  ed.  this  overrun  piece  is 
drawn  into  the  table,  which,  as  now  printed,  can  be  set  unbroken  on  two  pages 
facing  each  other. 

For  the  modem  scientific  classification  of  the  Siouan  linguistic  family  in  gen- 
eral, and  of  the  Dakotas  or  Sioux  in  particular,  see  my  ed.  of  Lewis  and  Clark, 
i8g3,  pp.  94-101,  and  pp.  128-130.  As  that  work  is  or  should  be  in  the  hands 
of  all  good  Americans,  the  subject  need  not  be  traversed  here.  Taking  that 
article  as  a  modem  norm  or  standard  of  comparison,  it  may  be  useful  to  give 
here  the  classification  and  nomenclature  of  the  Sioux  which  was  adopted  by 
Major  Long,  who  was  next  in  the  field  after  Pike  with  an  account  of  these  In- 
dians, Keating,  I.  1824,  chap  viii.,  p.  y]b  seq.  The  Dacota,  he  says,  means 
the  allied,  who  in  their  external  relations  style  themselves  Ochente  Shakoan, 
which  signifies  the  nation  of  seven  (council-)  fires,  represented  by  the  following 
septenary  division  which  once  prevailed:  i.  Mende  Wahkantoan,  or  People  of 
the  Spirit  lake.  2.  Wahkpatoan,  or  People  of  the  Leaves.  3.  Sisitoan,  or 
Mia  Kechakesa.  4.  Yanktoanan,  or  People  of  the  Ferns.  5.  Yanktoan,  or 
People  descended  from  Fems.  6.  Tiloan,  or  Braggers.  7.  Wahkpakotoan,  or 
People  that  shoot  at  Leaves.  Of  these  Long  has  it  that  No.  i  was  the  Gens  du 
Lac  of  the  French,  and  Nos.  2-6  were  all  included  in  the  Gens  du  Large  of  the 
F.  traders,  ».  e„  People  "at  large,"  roving  bands  of  prairie  Sioux.  But  the 
French  had  other  terms,  especially  Gens  des  Feuilles  for  No.  2,  and  Gens  des 


Abstract  of  the  Nations  of  Indians  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  confluent  str 


NaiRM. 


Englbh. 


II.  Foxn 


III.  lowM 


IV.  Wine- 

iMgOt 


V.  Meno> 
menu 


VI.  Sue* 

I.  People  of 
theLsJces 


1.  People  of 
the  Leave* 


3.  Siuitont 


4.  Vanktont 


5.  Tetoni 


6,  People  of 
the  Leaves 
detached  * 


VII.  Chipe' 

ways 

t.  Leapen 


■.   Of      St 

Croix  and 
Chipeway  r. 
3.  Of  the 
other  bandi 
generally 


Indian. 


fcwkM 


OttafMf 


Aiowab 


Ochan- 
gras 


Meno- 
mau* 


Karcotah 

Minowa 
Kaatong 


Waihp*- 
tong 


SuMitongt 

Vanctong 
Titong 

Waihpe- 

coute* 


Ouchipa- 
wah 

Of  Sandy 
Lalcet 

Of  Leech 

Lalcet 


Of      Red 

Lalcet 


FiMwh. 


Saqu* 


Reynards 


Ne  Perce 


Puant* 


?^ols  Avoin 
Total  of  the 
above] 

Sioux 

Gens     du 

Lac 


Gens   des 
Feuilles 


Suuitongt 

Vanctong 
Titong 


Gens  des  Feu- 
illes tirees  * 

[Total  Sioux] 


Sauteurs 

Sauteurs 
proper 


Total    (Chip. 
pewas] 

[Grand  total] 


TOO 


300 


♦SO 


300 
1150 


30s 


180 


3«o 


900 


90 


3835 


45 

150 
150 

104 

1600 

ao49 


8034 


> 


rjo   1400 


500 


400 


500 


3$o 


3500 


600 


3SO 


700 


1600 


3600 


180 


«433 


79 
aSo 
360 

165 

3400 


3184 


13114 


830 


TOO 


700 


4650 


S30 


3700 


6000 


370 


11800 


334 
6qo 
610 

410 
4000 


5944 


33394 


* 


3830 


1750 


1400 


I9SO 


1350 
9300 


»5 


3103 


1060 


3160 


4300 


I1600 


450 


31675 


345 


689 

8000 


11177 


45«5« 


laS 


70 


»55 


370 


600 


50 


1370 


"4 
«5 
«4 

SO 
400 


630 


1873 


700 


400 


330 


450 


300 

3100 


305 


160 


360 


350 


90 
1370 


3049 

S4«4 


Sauk 


Sauk.wlth 
a  small 
difference 
in  the 
idiom 

Misiouries 


Missou* 
rics,       or 
Zoto 


Meno- 
mene 


Narcotah 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


de. 


Michili- 
mackinaci 
Si.      Louis, 
people      of 
Prairie    det 
Chiena 

de. 


Michili- 
mackinac 


Algonquin 

do. 

do. 
do. 

do. 


Jill 


111 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


Vanktongs 
and       some 
Suuitongs 

People  of 
Prairies  des 
Chiens  ahd 
on  head  of 
de  Moyen 


N.  W.  Com' 
panyt 

do. 


do. 
do. 


N.  W.   Co. 

and  others 


IfOOO 


8500 


9000 


9000 


13500 


6000 


13500 


8000 


Un- 
cer- 
tain 


«oo 


400 


300 


350 


330 


"5 


160 


»30 


50 


'KiS 


Deer,  ion 
a  few  otter, 
racoon 


Deer,  a  ft 
with  a  11 

Mrtion 

urs. 


Deer, 

beaver, 
racjon, 
Riuskrat ' 
Same  aitl 


Beaver, 
gray    fo>J 
muskrat,  1 
deer,  elk,  I 


Deer,  *  t 

some 

racoon, 


Deer,afej 

robes,  tod 
otier,  laia 


Deer, 

falo-robe 
from  Rar 


Prlncii 
falo-rol 


Ipil 

)M 


Of 


BuSalo-r 


Deer,  \» 

otter, 

&c. 


Beaver, 

otter.mi 
and  sil*    k 


Unknot 


nor 


*  This  is  merely  a  band  of  vMabonds,  formed  by  refugees  from  all  other  bands,  which  they  left  for  some  bad  itei.  Baate. 
N.  B. — Wyaganage,  or  Fils  de  Pinchow,  a  chief  of  Gens  du  Lac,  and  head  of  village  at  entrance  of  St.  Petere,  ^Vhl  an< 
Total,  embodied  from  the"  Recapitulation,"  which  was  on  sepaiau  leaf  (unpaged  p.  M)  of  orig.  cd.— E.  C] 


Us  eonfluent  stmt  St.  Louis,  Louisiana,  to  its  source,  including  Red  Lake  and  Lower  Red  River, 


!  vp^- 

Wlihwhom 
tt  war. 

With   whom  at 
peace,    or     in 
alliance. 

Names  of  Chiefs  or  Principal  Men. 

Remaika. 

It  Isli 

Indian. 

French. 

English. 

i- 

Deer,  ion    •(  rapid 

Chipewayt 

Reynards, 

Washione 

a  few  otter,    n 

Puants,     Sioux, 

Fockquinlke 

BrasCaaaa 

Broken  Arm 

1    dM 

j^  racoon 

Osage,        Poto- 
watomies,     Folt 
Avoins,  loways, 
all     nations    of 

• 

the  Missouri 

0.           •500 

400  Deer,  a  Ii 
with  a  M 

river, 

do. 

do. 

Olopier 

First  Chief 

opp. 

Pecit 

Petit  Corbeau 

Litt'e  Raven 

portion    1 
luis. 

des 

Akaque 

Peau  Blanche 

Wl.ite  Skin 

Killed  the  Osage  on  their 

conAu- 

way  to  St.  Louis;    now 

Miti. 

■  aising   a   war-party    to 

Kousing 

» 

strike  the  Sauteaux 

111.       10000 

inae 

300  Deer,  \m    iMoveii 
beaver,        1 

do. 

do. 

racoon,  | 
riutlcrat 
MO  Same  »t 

».              9000 

de 

Since  the  peace  be- 

In  alliance  with 

New  Okat 

First    chief ;     commia- 

(on 

tweenOsages,Saul(s,jSau1(i,         Rey- 

Sansamani 

sioned  ai  such 

ir)  or  at 

and    Reynards,    I'u-  nards,       Sioux, 

Chenoway's  Son 

Commissioned 

«iumet 

ants     '.lave     tacitly 
ceased   war  on    the 
former 

Fols        Avoins, 
&c.,    at     peace 
with  all  others 

Karnmone 
Uii  Quarre 
Macraragah 

do. 
do. 
do. 

0.              9000 

350  Beaver, 
gray    io« 

des 

None 

In  alliance  with 

Tomaw 

Thomas  Carr->  • 

Thomu  Carron 

First     chief ;     received 

B    Fox 

Ottoway,  Chipe- 

Shawonoc 

commission  as  such,  and 

muikrai, 

way,  Ochangrus 

Neckech 

Hag 

deer,  elk. 

f 

Literally  translated;  first 
chief  of  the  nation  ;  re- 

Wabasha 

U  feuille 

The  Leaf 

ceived  a  commission  and 

I 

aflac 

lo.               >3J<» 

a3o  Deer,  a  1 

St. 

Recently,       Chipc- 

' 

Talangamane 

Aile  Rouge 
Petit  Corbeau 

kedWing                              do. 

some 

ways;  now  at  peace; 

Sauks.      Rey- 

Chatewacona- 

Little  Raven       'Received       commission 

racoon, t 

at  war  with  Assinni-inards,  lowayt, '{ 
boins      and      some  Fols  Avoini 

mnni 

and  ii.ii 

Literally  tran.'ated 

Tahamie 

Ori^na!  Leve 

Rising  Mouse 

nations  on  the  Mis- 

l 

Tatamane 

Nez  Corbeau 

Raven  No:.e 

Literally      Wind      that 

souri 

Walks  ;  commissioned 

do.             «oo< 

,    ii5Deer,a(c 

robes,  Ml 

tapids, 

1 

do. 

do. 

Wasonquianni 

Araignee  Jaune 

Yellow  Spider 

First  chief  of  the  nation 

otier, mi 

Wukunsna 

Tonnerre       qui 

Sonne 

Le  Noyeau 

Rolling  Thunder 

Literally  translated 

Houho  Otah 

Stone  of  i'ruit 

Received  a  commission 

and  flag 

First  chief  of  his  band 

do.             "SO 

0   t(o  Deer,  a 

Gross 

do. 

do. 

Wacanto 

Esprit  Bleu 

Blue  Spirit 
Black  Eagle 

falo-robc 

St. 

Waminisabah 

KillieuNnir 

Literally  transia'  id 

from  Rn 

Itoye 

Oross  Calumet 

Big  Pipe 
Red  Thunder 

Wuckiew  Nutch 

Tonnerre  Rouge 

Literal  translation ;  first 

chief  of  all  the  Sioux 

Petessung 

Vache  Blanche 

White  Buffalo 

Literally  translated 

do.              8o< 

•"  ^^iss^t 

Muckpeanutah 
Champanage 

Nuage  Rouge 

Red  Cloud 

Literally  translated;  first 
chief  of  the  nation 

nktongi 
1      some 
uitongi 

Buffalo-i 

Various   nations   of|           do. 

Chantaoeteka 

Coeur  Mauvais 

Bad  Heart 

Bois  Rrulle 

tiie  MiMOuri 

Shenouskar 
Wnmaneope- 

Couverte 

Blanche 

Coeur  du  Killeur 

White  Blanket 
Heart     of     the 

Okandanda 

tple      of     «o 
iiries  det 
iens   tiaA 

00     so  ^•«''  *• 
otter, 

de* 

do. 

do. 

nutah 

Rouge 

Red  Eagle 

Tantangashatah 

Boeuf  qui  Jnue 

Playing  liufTalo 

Literal  translation 

&c. 

Kachiwasigon 

Corbeau      Fran- 

French Raven 

do. 

head   of 

cois 

Moyen 

ce 

Recently,       Sioux ; 

Fols  Avoins,  all 

Catawabata 

De  Breche 

Broken  Teeth 

First  chief  of  his  band 

now  at  peace ;  at  war 

nations             of 

W.  Com- 

Beaver, 

with  Sauks,   Foxes, 

Canada 

otter.ni 

lowas 

and  siW 

0 

do. 

do. 

Eskil.rigeckoge 

Geuelle  Platte 

Flat  Mouth 

do. 

do. 

Obigouitte 

Chef  de  la  Terre 

Chief  nfthcL,and 

* 

Oo!e 

La  Brule 

The  Burnt 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Wiscoup 

Le  Sucre 

The  Sweet 

do. 

do. 

ie    of 

rior 

do. 

do. 

W.  C0.U 

1  othen    c< 

u 

n-             UnkM 
tr- 
io 

- 

Necktame 

Preinier      [Pre- 
mier] 

Head  Chief 

Resides  on  Lac  La  Pluir 

river. 

Uey  left  for  •<>»• '^.f.*!?-., 
lat.entrance  of  St.  Peters," 

I  orig.  ed.— E.  CJ 


Me.         X  See  my  Reports  on  the  trade  of  the  N.  W.  Company. 

;  and  comminion.    fZ.  M .  P.]         [N.  B.— Total  of  Sacs,  Foxes,  lowas,  Winnebagoes,  and  Menomoneei,  and  Grand 


348 


CLASSIFICATION  OF  THE  SIOUX. 


The  claims  of  limits  of  the  Sioux  nation  are  allowed  by 
all  their  neighbors  to  commence  at  Prairie  Des  Chiens,  and 
ascend  the  Mississippi  on  both  sides  to  the  Riviere  De  Cor- 
beau ;  up  that  river  to  its  source ;  thence  to  the  source  of 
the  St.  Peters;  thence  to  the  Montaigne  De  La  Prairie; 

Feuilles  Tirees  for  No.  7.  Comparing  Long  with  Pike,  we  find  :  Long's  No. 
l=Pike's  No.  i.  Long's  No.  2=Pike's  No.  2.  Long's  No.  3=Pike's  No.  3. 
Long's  Nos.  4  and  5=Pike's  No.  4,  with  his  two  divisions.  Long's  No.  6= 
Pike's  No.  5.  Long's  No.  7=Pike's  No.  6.  Such  a  concordance  as  this  de- 
serves a  red-letter  mark,  considering  how  seldom  authors  have  agreed  upon 
Sioux  ;  and  Pike  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of  establishing  the  seven  main  tribes. 
In  his  census,  to  be  compared  with  Pike's,  Long  gives  total  lodges,  2,330  ;  war- 
riors, 7,055  ;  souls,  28,100  :  see  Pike's  Abstract,  on  pp.  346,  347.  These  are 
distributed  by  Long  as  follows :  No.  i,  160 — 305 — 1,500.  No.  2,  120—240 — 
900.  No.  3,  130—260 — 1,000;  to  which  add  for  the  Kahra  (Pike's  Cavrce) 
band  of  Sissetons,  160 — 450 — 1,500.  No.  4,  460—1,300 — 5,200.  No.  5,  200 — 
500 — 2,000.  No.  6,  900—3,600^14,440.  No.  7,  100—200 — 800.  To  which 
add  for  various  stragglers  100 — 200 — 800,  making  total  of  lodges,  warriors,  and 
souls,  as  above.  Long  estimated  the  revolted  Stone  Sioux,  Haha,  or  Assini- 
boines  at  3,000 — 7,000 — 28,100,  or  almost  precisely  the  same  as  all  the  other 
Sioux  together.  Long's  interesting  particulars  of  the  14  bands  which  he  recog- 
nizes, by  dividing  his  No.  i  into  seven  and  separating  the  Kahras  from  the  other 
Sissetons,  may  be  thus  summarized :  No.  i.  Mende-  Wah  antoan  :  (i)  Keoxa ; 
pop.  40 — 70 — ^400  ;  chief  Wapasha,  Wabasha,  La  Feuille  or  Leaf  ;  two  villages, 
one  on  Iowa  r. ,  other  near  Lake  Pepin  ;  hunt  both  sides  of  the  Miss.  r.  near 
the  Chippewa  r.  and  its  tributaries.  Keoxa  means  ' '  relationship  overlooked  "  ; 
i.  t.y  they  inbreed  closer  than  other  Sioux.  (2)  Eanbosandata,  so  called  from 
the  vertical  rock  on  Cannon  r. ;  pop.  10 — 25 — 100  ;  chief  Shakea  ;  two  small 
villages,  one  on  the  Miss,  r.,  other  on  Cannon  r. ;  hunt  on  the  headwaters  of 
the  latter.  (3)  Kapoja,  signifying  light  or  active ;  one  village  (at  the  Grand 
Marais  or  Pig's  Eye  marsh  near  St.  Paul) ;  pop.  30 — 70^300  ;  chief,  the  cele- 
brated Chetanwakoamene,  Petit  Corbeau,  or  Little  Raven,  who  visited  Wash- 
ington in  July,  1824  ;  hunt  on  St.  Croix  r.  (4)  Oanoska,  meaning  great  avenue  ; 
chief  Wamendetanka  or  War  Eagle,  formerly  dependent  on  Petit  Corbeau  ;  one 
village  (Black  Dog's)  on  the  St.  Peter,  S.  side,  iit.^r  the  mouth  ;  pop.  30 — 40 — 
300  ;  hunt  on  the  Miss.  r.  above  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  (5)  Tetankatane, 
meaning  Old  Village  ;  the  oldest  one  among  the  Dakotas  ;  400  lodges  there 
when  Wapasha's  father  ruled  the  nation  ;  Wapasha  formerly  lived  there,  but 
moved  away  with  most  of  his  warriors  ;  those  that  stayed  chose  a  new  leader 
from  amongst  themselves,  whose  son  Takopepeshene,  the  Dauntless,  now  rules ; 
pop.  10 — 30 — 150;  village  on  the  St.  Peter,  3  m.  above  its  mouth;  hunt  on 
this  and  Miss.  r.  (6)  Taoapa ;  one  village  on  the  St.  Peter ;  pop.  30 — 60 — 
300  ;  chief  Shakpa,  whose  name  means  Six,  is  third  in  the  nation,  ranking  next 
after  La  Feuille  and  Petit  Corbeau  ;  hunt  between  the  Miss,  and  St.  Peter.    (7) 


CLASSIFICATION  OF  THE  SIOUX. 


349 


allowed  by 
Chiens,  and 
ere  De  Cor- 
le  source  of 
La  Prairie ; 

id :    Long's  No. 
3=Pike's  No.  3. 
Long's  No.  6= 
ance  as  this  de- 
,ave  agreed  upon 
Bven  main  tribes, 
iges,  2,330 ;  war- 
,  347-     Ihese  are 
o.  2,    120—240— 
I  (Pike's  Cav  Tce) 
00.    No.  5.  200— 
—800.     To  which 
Iges,  warriors,  and 
Haha,  or  Assini- 
\c  as  all  the  other 
ids  which  he  recog- 
hras  from  the  other 
{ntoan:  (i)  Keoxa; 
,eaf;  two  villages, 
)f  the  Miss.  r.  near 
iship  overlooked  "  : 
ita,  so  called  from 
fshakea ;  two  small 
the  headwaters  of 
lage  (at  the  Grand 
chief,  the  cele- 
Iwiio  visited  Wash- 
Ining  great  avenue ; 
'etit  Corbeau ;  one 
|th  ;  pop.  30—40— 
(5)  Tetankatane, 
1;  400  lodges  there 
■ly  lived  there,  but 
[chose  a  new  leader 
intlcss,  now  rules ; 
Is  mouth  ;  hunt  on 
^r ;  pop.  30—^— 
|ation,  ranking  next 
and  St.  Peter.    (7) 


thence  to  the  Missouri ;  down  that  river  to  the  Mahas,  bear- 
ing thence  N.  E.  to  the  source  of  the  De  Moyen ;  and  thence 
to  the  place  of  beginning.  They  also  claim  a  large  territory 
.south  of  the  Missouri,  but  how  far  it  extends  is  uncertain. 

Weakaote,  a  small  band  dependent  on  (6) ;  pop.  10 — 10 — 50.  No.  2.  Wahk- 
patoan,  or  Gens  des  Feuilles  ;  name  said  to  mean  "people  that  Uve  beyond 
those  that  shoot  at  leaves,"  i.  e.,.  higher  up  the  river  than  the  Wahkpakatoan  ; 
hunt  near  Otter  Tail  Lake  ;  chief  Nunpakea,  meaning  "  twice  flying."  No.  3. 
MiaktchtM  or  Sisitoan  :  (a)  Sissetons  proper ;  no  fixed  abode  ;  chief  rendez- 
vous. Blue  Earth  r.;  hunt  buffalo  over  to  the  Missouri;  live  in  skin  tepees; 
their  chief  Wahkanto,  or  Blue  Spirit,  by  hereditary  right,  (b)  Kahra  or  Wild 
Rice  Sissetons  ;  no  fixed  abode  ;  Lake  Traverse  and  Red  r. ;  skin  lodges  ;  fol- 
low chief  Tantankanaje,  Standing  Buffalo,  hereditary,  but  also  a  warrior.  No. 
4.  Yani/oanan,  the  Fern  Leaves,  an  important  tribe,  pop.  one-fifth  of  the 
whole  nation  ;  no  fixed  residence  ;  skin  lodges  ;  hunt  from  Red  r.  to  the  Mis- 
souri ;  trade  at  Lake  Travers,  Big  Stone  1.,  and  the  Shienne  r. ;  principal  chief, 
Wanotan,  the  Charger.  No.  5.  Yanktoan,  descended  from  the  Fern  Leaves  ; 
live  and  trade  on  the  Missouri  ;  hunt  on  E.  side  of  that  river;  chief  Tatanka 
Yuteshane,  meaning  one  who  eats  no  buffalo.  No.  6.  Tetoans,  Braggers  ;  by 
far  the  most  numerous  tribe  of  the  Sioux,  by  some  said  to  compose  one-half 
of  the  nation  ;  rove  between  St.  Peters  and  the  Missouri  ;  trade  on  both  rivers  ; 
live  in  skin  lodges  ;  hostile,  great  boasters  ;  their  chief  Chantapeta,  or  Heart  of 
Fire,  a  powerful  warrior.  No.  7.  IVahkpakotoan,  a  name  rendered  by  Long 
"  '  Shooters  at  Leaves,'  which  they  mistake  for  deer."  No  fixed  abode  ;  rove 
near  head  of  the  Cannon  and  Blue  Earth  rivers  ;  skin  lodges  ;  their  last  leader 
Shakeska,  White  Nails,  who  died  in  1822  ;  he  rose  to  his  station  by  his  mili- 
tary ability.  They  have  a  regular  hereditary  chief  Wiahuga,  the  Raven, 
acknowledged  as  such  by  the  Indian  Agent  ;  but  he  became  disgusted  with  the 
behavior  of  his  tribe,  and  withdrew  to  Wapasha's.  Long  agrees  with  Pike  in 
giving  this  band  a  bad  name  as  a  lawless  set.  Pike  says  they  were  mere  vaga- 
bonds, and  refugees  from  other  tribes  on  account  of  misdeeds.  These  Sioux 
were  also  called  Gens  des  Feuilles  Tirees  and  Leaf  Shooters.  In  the  Lewis  and 
Clark  schedule  they  formed  the  Ninth  tribe  of  Sioux,  named  Wahpatoota,  or 
Leaf  Beds.  A  queer  form  of  the  name  is  8apik8ti— Ouapikouti,  on  one  of 
Joliet's  maps. 

The  earliest  form  of  the  word  Sioux  is  believed  to  be  Naduesiu,  derived  from 
Jean  Nicolet's  journey  of  1634-35,  as  written  about  five  years  later  in  the 
Jesuit  Relations,  by  Father  Le  Jeune.  The  form  Nadouessis,  pi.,  is  used  by 
Raymbault  and  Jogues,  who  were  at  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie  in  1641  (Jes.  Rel.  of 
1642).  Nadouesiouek  is  given  in  a  Relation  of  1656,  Nadouechiouec,  1660 ; 
and  soon  also  Nadouesseronons,  Nadouesserons,  etc. 

An  excellent  article  on  the  Sioux,  entitled  Dakota  Land  and  Dakota  Life,  by 
Rev.  E.  D.  Neill,  occupies  pp.  254-294  of  the  2d  ed.  1872,  of  Minn.  Hist.  Soc. 
Coll.,  originally  published  in  1853. 


350 


SIOUX — CHIPPEWAS. 


The  country  E.  of  the  Mississippi,  from  Rum  river  to  the 
Riviere  De  Corbeau,  is  likewise  in  dispute  between  them 
and  the  Chipeways,  and  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a  sharp 
encounter  for  near  1 50  years  past. 

From  my  knowledge  of  the  Sioux  nation,  I  do  not  hesi- 
tate to  pronounce  them  the  most  warlike  and  independent 
nation  of  Indians  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United 
States,  their  every  passion  being  subservient  to  that  of  war ; 
at  the  same  time  that  their  traders  feel  themselves  perfectly 
secure  of  any  combination  being  made  against  themselves^ 
it  is  extremely  necessary  to  be  careful  not  to  injure  the 
honor  or  feelings  of  an  individual,  which  is  certainly  the 
principal  cause  of  the  many  broils  which  occur  between 
them.  But  never  was  a  trader  known  to  suffer  in  the  esti- 
mation of  the  nation  by  resenting  any  indignity  offered  him, 
even  if  it  went  to  taking  the  life  of  the  offender.  Their  gut- 
tural pronunciation,  high  cheek  bones,  their  visages,  and  dis- 
tinct manners,  together  with  their  own  traditions,  supported 
by  the  testimony  of  neighboring  nations,  puts  it  in  my  mind 
beyond  the  shadow  of  a  doubt  that  they  have  emignited 
from  the  N.  W.  point  of  America,  to  which  they  have  come 
across  the  narrow  streight  which  in  that  quarter  divides  the 
two  continents,  and  are  absolutely  descendants  of  a  Tar- 
tarean tribe. 

The  only  personal  knowledge  which  I  have  of  the  Chipe- 
way  nation  is  restricted  to  the  tribes  on  the  south  side  of 
Lake  Superior,  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Chipeway  and  the 
St.  Croix ;  and  to  those  who  reside  at  Sandy  Lake,  Leech 
Lake,  Rainy  Lake,  Red  Lake,  and  the  heads  of  the  rivers 
Rouge,  Mississippi,  and  De  Corbeau.  They  are  divided, 
like  the  Sioux,  into  many  bands,  the  names  of  only  seven  of 
which  I  am  acquainted  with. 

[ist.]  I  shall  begin  with  those  who  reside  on  the  south 
side  of  Lake  Superior,  and  on  Lakes  De  Sable  and  Sang 
Sue,  with  the  adjacent  country.  They  are  generally 
denominated  by  the  traders  by  the  name  of  Sauteuxs, 
but  those  of  the  headwaters  of  the   Chipeway  and   St. 


CHIPPEWAS. 


351 


river  to  the 
etween  them 
many  a  sharp 

do  not  hesi- 
i  independent 
i  the  United 
o  that  of  war ; 
elves  perfectly 
St  themselves, 

to  injure  the 
5  certainly  the 
occur  between 
ffer  in  the  esti- 
ity  offered  him, 
der.   Their  gut- 
/isages,  and  dis- 
tions,  supported 
ts  it  in  my  mind 
have  emigr.".ted 
they  have  come 
rter  divides  the 

iants  of  a  Tar- 

^e  of  the  Chipe- 
^e  south  side  of 
.lipeway  and  the 
Idy  Lake,  Leech 
Vds  of  the  rivers 
ley  are  divided, 
lof  only  seven  of 

Be  on  the  south 
sable  and  Sang 
are  generally 
of  Sauteuxs, 
bpeway  and  St. 


Croix  rivers  are  called  Fols  Avoin  Sauteurs.  I  am  un- 
acquainted with  the  names  of  their  chiefs.  Those  of  Sandy 
Lake  are  headed  by  a  chief  called  Catawabata,  or  De 
Breche  [Brfeche-dent].  They  hunt  on  Mille  Lacs,  Red 
Lake,  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  from  Rum  river 
up  to  the  Des  Corbeau,  and  thence  on  both  sides  of 
the  Mississippi  to  Pine  river;  on  that  river  also,  up  the 
Mississippi  to  Lake  De  Sable,  and  about  100  miles  above 
that  lake.  Those  of  Leech  Lake  hunt  on  its  streams,  Lake 
Winipie  [Winnibigoshish],  Upper  Red  Cedar  Lake,  Otter- 
Tail  Lake,  head  of  the  De  Corbeau,  and  the  upper  part  of 
Lower  Red  river.  Their  chief  is  Le  Gieulle  [La  Gueule] 
Platte,  or  Eskibugeckoge  [Flat  Mouth]. 

2d.  The  Crees  reside  on  Red  lake,  and  hunt  in  its  vicinity 
and  on  Red  river.  Their  first  chief's  name  is  Wiscoup,  or 
Le  Sucre. 

3d.  The  Nepesangs  reside  on  Lake  Nippising  and  Lake 
St.  Joseph. 

4th.  The  Algonquins  reside  on  the  Lake  of  the  two 
Mountains,  and  are  dispersed  along  the  north  sides  of  Lakes 
Ontario  and  Erie.  From  this  tribe  the  language  of  the 
Chipeways  derives  its  name,  and  the  whole  nation  is  fre- 
quently designated  by  that  appellation. 

5th.  The  Otoways  [Ottawas]  reside  on  the  N.  W.  side  of 
Lake  Michigan  and  Lake  Huron ;  and  hunt  between  those 
lakes  and  Lake  Superior. 

6th.  The  Iroquois  Chipeways  are  dispersed  along  the 
banks  of  all  the  Great  Lakes,  from  Ontario  to  the  Lake  of 
the  Woods. 

7th.  The  Muscononges  reside  on  the  waters  of  Lower  Red 
river,  near  to  Lake  Winipie  [Winnipeg],  and  are  the  furthest 
band  of  Chipeways. 

The  Chipeways  were  the  great  and  almost  natural  enemies 
of  the  Sioux,  with  whom  they  had  been  waging  a  war  of 
extermination  for  near  two  centuries.  On  my  arrival  Uinong 
them  I  succeeded  in  inducing  both  sides  to  agree  to  a  peace, 
and  no  blood  was  shed  from  Sept.,  1805,  to  Apr.,  1806,  v/hen 


352 


CHIPPEWA-SIOUX  RELATIONS. 


I  left  the  country.  This  object  had  frequently  been  in  vain 
attempted  by  the  British  government,  who  often  brought 
the  chiefs  of  the  two  nations  together  at  Michilimackinac, 
made  them  presents,  etc. .  But  the  Sioux,  still  haughty  and 
overbearing,  spurned  the  proffered  calumet,  and  returned  to 
renew  the  scenes  of  slaughter  and  barbarity.  It  may  then 
be  demanded,  how  could  a  subaltern  with  20  men,  and  no 
presents  worthy  of  notice,  effect  that  which  the  governors 
of  Canada,  with  all  the  immense  "finances  of  the  Indian  de- 
partment, had  attempted  in  vain,  although  they  frequently 
and  urgently  recommended  it  ?  I  reply  that  it  is  true  the 
British  government  requested,  recommended,  and  made 
presents — but  all  this  at  a  distance ;  and  when  the  chiefs 
returned  to  their  bands,  their  thirst  for  blood  soon  obliter- 
ated from  their  recollection  the  lectures  of  humanity  which 
they  had  heard  in  the  councils  of  Michilimackinac.  But 
when  I  appeared  amongst  them  the  United  States  had  lately 
acquired  jurisdiction  over  them,  and  the  names  of  the 
Americans  as  warriors  had  frequently  been  sounded  in  their 
ears ;  when  I  spoke  to  them  on  the  subject  I  commanded 
them,  in  the  name  of  their  great  father,  to  make  peace ; 
offered  them  the  benefit  of  the  mediation  and  guarantee  of 
the  United  States ;  and  spoke  of  the  peace,  not  as  a  benefit 
to  us,  but  a  step  taken  to  make  themselves  and  their  chil- 
dren happy.  This  language,  held  up  to  both  nations  with 
the  assistance  of  the  traders,  was  a  happy  coincidence  of 
circumstances ;  and  (may  I  not  add  ?)  the  assistance  of  the 
Almighty  effected  that  which  had  long  been  attempted  in 
vain.  But  I  am  perfectly  convinced  that,  unless  troops  are 
sent  up  between  those  two  nations,  with  an  agent  whose 
business  it  would  be  to  watch  the  rising  discontents  and 
check  the  brooding  spirit  of  revenge,  the  weapons  of  death 
will  again  be  raised,  and  the  echoes  of  savage  barbarity  will 
resound  through  the  wilderness.* 

*  The  punctuation  of  the  last  two  sentences  in  the  original  left  Pike's  meaning 
obscure.  It  was  by  no  means  evident  whether  the  language  which  he  had  used 
to  the  Indians  held  up  to  their  minds  a  happy  coincidence  of  circumstances 


CHIPPEWA-SIOUX  RELATIONS. 


353 


been  in  vain 
ften  brought 
hilimackinac, 
haughty  and 
d  returned  to 

It  may  then 

men,  and  no 

he  governors 

:he  Indian  de- 

ley  frequently 

it  is  true  the 
:d,  and  made 
len  the  chiefs 
[  soon  obliter- 
umanity  which 
lackinac.    But 
lates  had  lately 
names  of  the 
)unded  in  their 
I  commanded 
)  make  peace; 
id  guarantee  of 
[\ot  as  a  benefit 

and  their  chil- 
|h  nations  with 

[coincidence  of 

iistance  of  the 
attempted  in 

iless  troops  are 
agent  whose 

|iscontents  and 

pons  of  death 

barbarity  will 

I  left  Pike's  meaning 

I  which  he  had  used 
|e  of  circumstances 


The  Chipeways  are  uncommonly  attached  to  spirituous 
liquors ;  but  may  not  this  be  owing  to  their  traders,  who 
find  it  much  to  their  [own]  interest  to  encourage  their  [the 
Chipeways']  thirst  after  an  article  which  enables  them  [the 
traders]  to  obtain  their  [the  Chipeways']  peltries  at  so  low  a 
rate  as  scarcely  to  be  denominated  a  consideration,  and 
have  reduced  the  people  near  the  establishments  to  a  degree 
of  degradation  unparalleled  ? 

The  Algonquin  language  is  one  of  the  most  copious  and 
sonorous  languages  of  all  the  savage  dialects  in  North 
America;  and  is  spoken  and  understood  by  the  various 
nations,  except  the  Sioux,  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to 
Lake  Winipie  [Winnipeg]. 

This  nation  is  much  more  mild  and  docile  than  the  Sioux, 
and  if  we  may  judge  from  unprejudiced  observers,  more 
cool  and  deliberate  in  action.  But  the  latter  possess  a  much 
higher  sense  of  the  honor  of  their  nation :  the  others  plan 
for  self-preservation.  The  Sioux  attacks  with  impetuosity ; 
the  other  defends  with  every  necessary  precaution.  But  the 
superior  numbers  of  the  Sioux  would  have  enabled  them  to 
annihilate  the  Chipeways  long  since  had  it  not  been  for 
the  nature  of  their  [the  Chipeways']  country,  which  entirely 
precludes  the  possibility  of  an  attack  on  horseback.    This 

which  the  traders  helped  to  bring  about  before  the  \lmighty  interfered  at  all,  or 
whether  the  happy  coincidence  of  circumstances  consisted  iu  the  endorsement  of 
his  language  both  by  the  traders  and  the  Almighty.  On  the  whole,  I  am  inclined 
to  think  he  meant  that  the  speeches  he  made  to  the  Indians  whom  he  addressed 
directly  were  repeated  and  backed  up  by  the  traders  among  those  Indians  to 
whom  he  had  no  access ;  and  that  this  was  the  happy  coincidence  of  circum- 
stances which  enabled  the  Almighty  to  finish  the  business.  But  after  all  I  am 
not  quite  confident  that  I  catch  his  meaning.  If  I  do,  I  must  say  that  he  is  not 
very  complimentary  to  the  Deity,  whose  assistance  he  suspects  may  have  been 
necessary  to  effect  that  which  the  traders  and  himself  jointly  attempted.  For  it 
seems  from  his  further  reflections  on  tlie  subject  that  he  thought  God  possibly 
equal  to  burying  the  hatchet  between  the  Sioux  and  Chippewas,  but  hardly  able 
to  keep  the  p>eace  without  the  assistance  of  the  military  and  of  a  special  agent. 
However,  Pike  was  nothing  if  not  a  good  soldier,  and  he  had  Napoleonic 
authority  for  supposing  that  God  would  always  be  found  on  the  side  of  the 
heaviest  artillery. 


3S4 


CHIPPEWA-SIOUX  RELATION^. 


also  gives  them  a  decided  advantage  over  an  enemy  half 
armed  with  arrows,  as  the  least  twig  of  a  bush  will  turn 
the  shaft  of  death  out  of  its  direction ;  whereas,  the  whizzing 
bullet  holds  its  course  nor  spends  its  force  short  of  the 
destined  victim.  Thus  we  generally  have  found  that  when 
engaged  in  a  prairie  the  Sioux  came  of!  victorious ;  but  if 
in  the  woods,  even  if  not  obliged  to  retreat,  the  carcasses  of 
their  slaughtered  brethren  showed  how  dearly  they  pur- 
chased the  victory. 

The  Sioux  are  bounded  on  the  N.  £.  and  N.  by  these 
two  powerful  nations,  the  Chipeways  and  Knisteneaux 
[Crees],  whose  manners,  strength,  and  boundaries  are  ably 
described  by  Sir  Alexander  McKenzie.  The  Assinniboins, 
or  Stone  Sioux,  who  border  the  Chipew  ys  on  the  N.  W. 
and  W.,  are  a  revolted  band  of  the  Sioux,  who  have  main- 
tained war  with  the  parent  nation  for  about  a  century,  and 
have  rendered  themselves  their  most  violent  enemies.  They 
extend  from  the  Red  river  W.  nearly  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  are  computed  at  1,500  warriors.  They  reside  on 
the  plains,  and  follow  the  buffalo ;  consequently  they  have 
very  little  occasion  for  traders  or  European  productions. 


enemy  half 
h  will  turn 
he  whizzing 
hort  of  the 
i  that  when 
ious ;  but  if 
carcasses  of 
y  they  pur- 

N.  by  these 
Knisteneaux 
ries  are  ably 
A.ssinniboins, 
n  the  N.  W. 
)  have  main- 
century,  and 
:mies.    They 
Rocky  Moun- 
hey  reside  on 
tly  they  have 
tductions. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


VOCABULARY  OF   MISSISSIPPIAN  PLACE-NAMES.' 


English. 

French. 

Indian, 

Natural  Meadow 

Prairie 

BuSaio  river 

Riviere  au  Boeiif 

Salt  river 

Riviere  au  Sel 

Oahaha 

River  of  Means 

Riviere  de  Moyen 

Iowa  river 

Riviere  de  Ayoua 

Stony,  or  Rock  river 

Riviere  des  Rochers 

Turkey  river 

Riviere  au  Dindon 

Dog's  meadow 

Prairie  des  Chiens 

Ouiscousing 

Raven  river 

Riviere  de  Corbeau 

Yellow  river 

Riviere  Jaune 

Root  river 

Riviere  aux  Racines 

River    of    Embarrass- 

Riviere d'Embarras 

ments 

Clear  Water  river 

Riviere  I'Eau  Clair 

River  of  the  Prairie  of 

Rivie-e  de  la  Prairie  de 

Cross 

Crosse 

Chipeway  river 

Riviere  Sauteaux 

Ouchipewa  Sippi 

•  This  article  formed  Doc.  No.  2,  pp.  52,  53  of  the  App.  to  Part  III.  of  the  orig. 
ed.,  entitled  "Explanatory  Table  of  Names  of  Places,  Persons,  and  Things, 
made  use  of  in  this  Volume."  But  there  is  not  a  name  of  any  person  in  it,  and 
not  a  name  of  anything  in  it  that  does  not  belong  to  Part  I.,  »'.  t.,  to  the  Miss- 
issippi voyage  alone.  Having  thus  been  obviously  out  of  place  in  Part  III.,  it 
is  now  brought  where  it  belongs,  and  a  new  chapter  made  for  it,  with  a  new 
head,  which  more  accurately  indicates  what  it  is.  But  even  as  a  vocabulary  of 
Mississipian  place-names,  it  is  a  mere  fragment,  neither  the  plan  nor  scope  of 
which  is  evident,  as  the  names  occur  neither  in  alphabetical  nor  any  other 
recognizable  order,  and  include  only  a  very  small  fraction  of  those  which  Pike 
uses  in  Part  I.  of  his  book.  He  may  have  intended  to  make  something  of  it 
which  should  justify  the  title  he  gave  it,  and  left  it  out  of  Part  I.  for  that 
reason  ;  but  nothing  more  came  of  it,  and  it  was  finally  bundled  into  Part  III. 
The  lists  include  a  few  terms  which  do  not  occur  elsewhere  in  the  work,  as  for 
example,  "River  of  Means";  but  are  chiefly  curious  as  an  evidence  of  the 
difficulty  our  author  found  in  spelling  proper  names  twice  alike. 

355 


356 


FRAGMENT  OF  A  VOCABULARY. 


Et^tisk. 
The   Mountain  which 

soaks  in  the  Water 
River  of  ^ 
Sandy  point 
The  Barn 
Cannon  River 
River  St.  Peters 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony 
Rum  river 
Leaf  river 
Saulc  river 
Big  Falls 
Lower  Red  Cedar  lake 

Raven  island 

Pine  river 

Leech  lake 

Sandy  lake 

Pike  river 

Bottom  of  the  lake 

Swan  river 

Falls  of  Packegamaw 

Upper  Red  Cedar  lake 

Red  lake 
Green  bay 
St.  Ignatius 
Oak  Point 

The  Turn 
Island  of  the  Turn 
Burnt  island 
Potowatomies  island 
Little  Streight 
Port  of  the  Dead 
Vermillion  island 
Red  river  \ 

Stinking  rapid 
Wolf  river 
Hillock  of  the  dead 

Muddy  lake 


Frtnch. 
La     Montaigne      qui 

trempe  dans  I'Eau 
Riviere  de  do 
Point  de  Sable 
La  Grange 
Riviere  a  Canon 
Riviere  St.  Pierre 
Shute  de  St.  Antoine 
Prairie  I'Eau  de  Vie 
Riviere  aux  Feuilles 
Riviere  aux  Saukes 
Grand  rapid      ^ 
Le  Bas  Lac  du  Cedre 

Rouge 
Isle  de  Corbeau 
Riviere  au  Pin 
Lac  Sang  Sue 
Lac  de  Sable 
Riviere  du  Brochet 
Fond  du  Lac 
Riviere  a  Cigue 
Petite  Shute 
Le  Haut  Lac  de  Cedre 

Rouge 
Lac  Rouge 
La  Baye  Verde 
St.  Ignace 
Point  au  Chene 

La  Detour 
Isle  du  Detour 
Isle  Brule 
Isle  des  Poux 
P-tit  Detroit 

ort  des  Morts 
Isle  Vermilion 
Riviere  Rouge 
Puant  Rapid 
Riviere  des  Loups 
Butte  des  Morts 


Indian. 


Packegamaw 


Meno  Cockien 


Lac  Vaseux 


Lac  Puckway 


ndian. 


ramaw 


Zockien 


ickway 


